Wales View 2014

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WalesView

2014

Coast & Country: award-winning beaches & mountain waterfalls

A tale of two cities: an insiders guide to Swansea & Cardiff

Chris Packham: celebrating the natural wonder of Wales

Adventure playground: mountain biking in Wales

Matthew Rhys: celebrating the life of Dylan Thomas

Plus travel and holiday information

visitwales.com

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Front cover

Rhossili, Gower Peninsula

This page

Dylan Thomass Writing Shed, The Boathouse, Laugharne

Opposite page, top to bottom

Matthew Rhys

Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire

Mission Gallery, Swansea

Conwy Castle, Conwy

BikePark Wales

Welsh produce

For a tiny piece of the planet, there is rather a lot to see and do in Wales.

We like to keep ourselves entertained, with festivals, anniversary celebrations and

sporting events. You can see this reflected in the natural enthusiasm of the people

of Wales. We use the country as our playground. It provides us with wonderful food

and inspires us to create great works of art and literature.

Wales is a modern, diverse country with a great heritage for everyone to enjoy;

and we look forward to sharing all these memorable experiences with you.

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Visit Wales cannot guarantee the accuracy

or reliability of the information in this

publication and hereby disclaim any

responsibility for any error, omissionor misrepresentation. To the fullest

extent permitted by law all liability for

loss, disappointment, negligence or

other damage caused by reliance on

the information contained in this guide

is excluded. You are advised to check

all details and information with the

business concerned before confirming a

reservation. All rights reserved. Material in

this publication must not be reproduced

in any form without permission from the

copyright owners please contact Visit

Wales. Opinions expressed in Wales View

are not necessarily those of Visit Wales.

Wales View is published by Visit Wales,

the Tourism and Marketing division of the

Welsh Government 2014.

Visit Wales, Welsh Government, QED

Centre, Main Avenue, Treforest Industrial

Estate, Treforest, Pontypridd CF37 5YR

(WG18041)

Managing Editors Iestyn George and

Charles Williams. Printed by Westdale Press.

Print ISBN: 978 1 4734 0418 2

Digital ISBN: 978 1 4734 0409 0

Crown copyright (2013) Visit Wales

Design & photography: Visit Wales

Creative Services.

Other photography: Bodnant Welsh Food

Centre, Celtic Manor Resort, Grace Elliott,

David Frost, Getty Image, Steve Hartley/

CBMWC, Charles Hawes, Gweldd Conwy

Feast, Ian Jones, Rainy Day Films, Steve Read,

Kiran Ridley, Lee Miller Archives, S4C, Nick

Treharne, Universal Studios, Wales Screen

Commission, Wrights Independent Food

Emporium and Ynys-Hir RSPB.

Back cover quotation: fromIdyll of

Unforgetfulnessby Dylan Thomas

The Trustees for the copyright of

Dylan Thomas, 1929.

This publication is also available in Braille,

large-format print, and/or audio from

Visit Wales.

[email protected]

1visitwales.com

Printed on recycled pape

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Dylan ThomasActor Matthew Rhys on Waless

best-known literary figure,

kicking off a year of centenary

celebrations in 2014.

Wales on film Visit the beauty spots that drew

Johnny Depp, Keira Knightley and

Dobby the House Elf to Wales.

Coast & country BBC television presenter Chris

Packham celebrates the wildlife

of Wales, alongside your guide to

its great gardens, beaches, islands

and waterfalls.

A tale of two cities International wheelchair athlete

and television presenter Liam Holt

explores the visitor attractions

of Cardiff and Swansea.

On the town A celebration of the historic

market towns of Wales.

Events diary Why not book your Welsh break

around one of the exciting events

taking place here in 2014?

The castles of Wales An appetising guide to a selection

of the 641 historic castles we have

in Wales.

Myths & legends Magical stories from all over Wales,

featuring an assortment of dragons,

water monsters and fairies.

Royal connections Follow in the footsteps of royals

down the centuries and youll end

up in Anglesey, former home of

Prince William and Kate.

Mountain biking Discover why Wales has become a

leading destination for mountain

bikers from all over the world.

Adrenaline WalesWales Views youngest contributortells us what its like to fly 500 feet

(152 metres) in the air along the

longest zip wire in Europe.

Food & drinkWhether youre foraging or

feasting, the natural produce grown

in Wales is unrivalled for freshness

and flavour.

In the lap of luxury Go on, spoil yourself...

Essential information Travel information, area guides

to Wales and FAQs.

Wales map

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Contents

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visitwales.com2

On a Sunday morning, a black-clad

jogger trots up to the Wales Vieweditorial door. The jogger pulls off his

beanie and a mop of curls springs out,

a wide smile not far below. Ive been

up the Taff Trail, beams Matthew Rhys,

whos just been running along the

long-distance path that skirts the Cardiff

suburb where he was born. I love it, I

run up there whenever Im back home.

The 39-year-old radiates health and

happiness. Hes a delightful, energising

presence, talking quickly in his mellifluous

baritone. He throws in impressionsand accents for free (many of them

American, because thats where hes

now based, in Los Angeles). He laughs,

a lot. Matthew Rhys is not an actor of

the tortured variety, clearly.

Life is good, he agrees. Hes currently

the star of one of the worlds biggest TV

shows, The Americans, in which he plays

a Soviet KGB spy living a chillingly tense

undercover existence in Washington DC

during the Cold War. Still, its not half

as scary as being Dylan Thomas. Rhysplayed the iconic poet in The Edge of

Love, a role which required him to be

one-third of a love-triangle with two of

the most beautiful stars of British film,

Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller. Tough

job? Yes, actually.

I was terrified! laughs Rhys. Everyone

in Wales has this incredibly strong sense

of who Dylan should be. But theres no

footage of him, weve only got his voice

recordings. So no-one really knows who

he is. When I was researching the role, Itried to read as many peoples accounts

of him as I could, to try and get an

image of him. I spoke to his daughter

Aeronwy as well, who gave me a good

few pointers. She said, His hands were

like two dead fish, which I thought was

wonderful!

As an actor, Rhys is awestruck by

Dylans dazzling way with words. But

does he also think the poet would have

So why does Dylan Thomasmean so much to Wales?

Who better to ask than

Matthew Rhys, the Cardiff-

born actor who played the

mercurial poet so brilliantly

in The Edge of Love.

Interview by Charles Williams

Being

Dylan

MainMatthew Rhys as Dylan Thomasin The Edge of Love

Opposite clockwise from top leftMatthew Rhys and Sienna Millerin The Edge of LoveSienna Miller and Kiera Knightleyfilming in WalesBest friends Matthew Rhys andIoan Gruffudd

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3visitwales.com

Thomas lived the life he wanted, on his ownterms. Thats quietly admired in the chapels.

Arts and cultureDylan Thomas

been an interesting chap to share

a pint with?

I do, actually, although from what I

read, not everyone who met him liked

him. He had the wit, along with the ever-

present Welsh darkness, and very little

patience.

So why does he remain such an iconic

figure to the Welsh? Ah, we love our

archetypes in Wales, says Rhys. The bigdrinker, the carouser, the no-good-boyo.

Dylans image fitted incredibly well. And

he was irreverent at a time you werent

supposed to be, the 1950s. Its not really

in the Welsh DNA. We havent got many

hellraisers, but Thomas stuck two fingers

up at it all and lived the life he wanted.

Richard Burton was exactly the same.

They lived their lives on their own terms.

In our nations psyche, thats quietly

admired in the chapels.

There was a modest amount of

roistering during the making of The

Edge of Love, which was filmed on

location in West Wales, land of Rhyss

own ancestors. I was determined to

put on a proper Welsh night, so I went

on full twee overdrive and found this

amazing pub in Aberaeron and I got a

Welsh folk band in, says Rhys. What was

so gratifying was how much they loved

it. The girls [Knightley and Miller] loved

Wales, they were like, Oh my God, we

need to move here!

If they had, the local farmers would

have remained utterly unfazed by two

of the worlds most beautiful actresses,reckons Rhys. They were certainly less

impressed by Rhyss acting than his local

farming connections. One farmer said to

me, I know who you are. Youre Kevin

Evanss cousin, arent you? He runs a

thousand acres up near Aberystwyth,

doesnt he? Beautiful dairy hes got...

Its a typical Welsh characteristic a

refusal to be impressed that never fails

to amuse Rhys, even when hes on the

receiving end which he is, every time

he comes back home and goes to the

pub with his school friends. They feel

almost duty-bound to make sure that if I

ever dream of thinking myself above my

station, I should be put back in my place

or lower, just to make sure.

Matthew Rhysgrew up in Cardiff,where both his parents wereteachers. He went to the sameWelsh-language school as hisbest friend Ioan Gruffudd, andthe pair trained together at RADA.He won acclaim in the hit US TVseries Brothers & Sistersandcurrently stars in the spy thriller

The Americans. His stage workincludes The GraduatewithKathleen Turner, several RoyalShakespeare Companyproductions, and a recent revivalof Look Back In Angerin New York. For an extended version of thisinterview, and to find out aboutMatthew Rhyss favourite placesin Wales, see visitwales.com

i

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Above from left

Laugharne Castle, Laugharne

Browns Hotel, Laugharne

Dylan Thomas

4 visitwales.com

Its almost like hazing, as they say inAmerica. You have to go through the first

15 minutes in the pub where youre torn

to bits, and then you can get on with

catching up.

Rhys went to his local Welsh-language

comprehensive school in Cardiff, where

he was the year below his best friend,

the actor Ioan Gruffudd. They went to

the same chapel, and competed in the

same school eisteddfod, the performing

arts competition in which almost every

Welsh child especially those in Welsh-

language schools takes part.Were kicked onto a stage, or into a

pulpit, from a young age, says Rhys. I

didnt always like it as a child, but when

you look back, its amazing. That level of

celebration of culture, combined with a

sense of tradition and history its great,

as long as it keeps evolving. And even

if you hate being on stage, somewhere

in your psyche it will help you. It

encourages confidence and teamwork,

which sounds like corporate clich, but

I genuinely believe it. Rhys followed Gruffudd to the Royal

Academy of Dramatic Art (RADA), an

experience they found both priceless and

shockingly hard. While their friends who

went to university seemed to be living

lives of raucous freedom, RADA was a

gruelling six days work a week, plus long

nights learning lines.

Rhys is now based in Los Angeles,

where hes part of an entire tribe of

Welsh actors that includes Ioan Gruffudd,Michael Sheen, Andrew Howard and

Catherine Zeta Jones.

I discovered an even greater group of

Welshies there during the Six Nations

[rugby championship], says Rhys.

Theres a pub in Santa Monica called the

Kings Head that shows the games live,

usually at around 5.30am. I remember

walking in and theres a sea of red, and

suddenly theres this ready-made Welsh

community. There are a lot of boys from

Merthyr Tydfil working in construction

there, strangely. Welshness and especially the Welsh

language is still central to who Rhys is.

Its also why, on this precious weekend

off in Cardiff, he doesnt mind pitching in

to help by opening major festivals at a

moments notice, for instance, which is

what he did the day before at the Welsh-

language festival Tafwyl.

Im happy to support when I can,

says Rhys. Welsh is my first language, its

what I speak to my family and to friends

like Ioan. But whenever I do somethinglike speaking at a festival, theres always

someone at the back I know, one of my

school friends, who catches my eye and

does this

At this point Rhys mimes a series of

magnificently obscene gestures that,

mercifully, cannot be recreated in print.

Its the Welsh putting me back in my

place. He laughs again. Happens all the

time!

r In Country Sleep:where to stay on

the Thomas trail

Browns Hotel, LaugharneDylans favourite haunt has beenrestored and reborn as a boutiquehotel and oozes glamour.browns-hotel.co.uk

1 Coastguard Cottage, RhossiliDylan and his school friends camecamping here, but you can stay inthis National Trust-run cottage.nationaltrustcottages.co.uk

Quay West, New QuayThis clifftop holiday caravan parkoffers lovely views of the harbourtown that inspired Under Milk Wood.haven.com

Trehyddion Barns, CarmarthenshireDylans summer holidays werespent on rural farms like this, withLlansteffans sandy beach and castle

on the doorstep.trehyddionbarns.com

Ty Mawr, near AberaeronWhen filming The Edge of Lovethestars stayed at this gorgeous Georgianmanor in the Aeron valley.tymawrmansion.co.uk

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5visitwales.com

The Dylan ThomasBoathouse

The poets lovely waterside home hosts

a variety of events and intimate readings

throughout the Dylan Thomas 100

Festival. Also look out for Dylans writing

shed as it tours the country.All year, Laugharne and locations

across Wales

dylanthomasboathouse.com

Peter Blake Exhibition:Llareggub

The venerable pop artist Peter Blake is

passionate about Dylans play for voices

Under Milk Wood, and this show includes

portraits of each of the 60 characters, and

collages depicting the fictional village of

Llareggub.

Until 16th March

National Museum Cardiff

museumwales.ac.uk/en/Cardiff

The Laugharne Weekends

Three weekends in Laugharne celebrate

Dylan Thomass life and work, each

themed to echo Dylans favourite art

forms just the kind of events Dylan

himself would have enjoyed. Therell be

Poetry and Biography, curated by PattiSmith and Simon Armitage (11th 13th

April), Comedy and Radio, curated by

Robin Ince and Stuart Maconie

(19th 21st September), and Music and

Film, curated by Richard James and Euros

Childs (26th 28th September).

Laugharne

dylanthomas100.org

A Dylan Odyssey

This series of literary tourism events

follows Dylans steps to Wales, Oxford and

New York. They will involve kayaking, pony

trap rides, jazz music, Beat poetry, and the

company of contemporary writers such as

Owen Sheers and Gillian Clarke.May September, Wales and worldwide

literaturewales.org /a-dylan-odyssey/

Dylan Thomas Exhibition

The National Library of Wales has a

major exhibition from its archive of Dylan

Thomas material, which includes unique

personal items, alongside visiting items

from the United States.

28th June 20th December

Aberystwyth

llgc.org.uk

Lleisiau/Voices

This live, multi-national event celebrates

the history of vocal and oral traditions. Its

presented at Chapter in Cardiff, with live

streaming from Browns Hotel in Laugharne

and the Chelsea Hotel in New York.

20th September

Chapter Arts Centre, Cardiff

chapter.org

Swansea Festival of Musicand the Arts

This annual festival includes the Wales

premiere ofA Dylan Thomas Trilogyby

John Corigliano, and the world premiere

of Karl Jenkins Three Images from

Dylan Thomaswith the Russian NationalPhilharmonic Orchestra.

4th 18th October, Swansea

swanseafestival.org

The Dylan Thomas Festival

This annual festival, held over an event-

packed two weeks, is the centrepiece of

the year-long celebrations that make up

Dylan Thomas 100.

27th October 9th November, Swansea

dylanthomas.com

A Child s Christmas in Wales

Michael Bogdanovs adaptation of the

classic tale will be performed by the Wales

Theatre Company at theatres

all over Wales.

November & December, across Wales

thewalestheatrecompany.com

Dylan Thomas is Waless greatest poet and writer. To mark the centenary of Dylans

birth, in a small house in Swansea in 1914, the Dylan Thomas 100 Festival is a year-

long celebration of his life and work. The festivals Royal Patron is the Prince of Wales

who has joined in the festival spirit by recording a special reading of his favourite

Dylan Thomas poem, Fern Hill. There are hundreds of events, here and around the

world. These are just a few highlights, but do check the website for the latest info:

dylanthomas100.org

Dylan Thomas 100 is the perfect way to

introduce the places and characters in my

grandfathers poetry and prose, and for

people to discover why the quirky villages

and seaside towns inspired him so much. I

hope that the festival will spark a passion

for words in a new generation and leave a

lasting legacy for Wales.

Hannah Ellis, honorary patron

and Dylan Thomass granddaughter

Arts and cultureDylan Thomas

Dylan Thomas 100

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6 visitwales.com

Sometimes even Hollywood stars have toplay best supporting actor to the scenery.

Wales has been the location for hundreds

of lms. Here we pay tribute to our most

scene-stealing performances.

Hollywood

Whale of a timeMatthew Rhys filmed The Edge of Love

(2008) in several locations around West

Wales, most notably New Quay. Thislovely harbour town was the inspiration

for Dylan Thomass classic Under Milk

Wood, although the 1972 movie version,

starring Richard Burton, was filmed down

the coast at Lower Fishguard, as was the

1955 film Moby Dick.

discoverceredigion.co.uk

visitpembrokeshire.com

pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk

Holy water!In the 2012 movie The Dark Knight Rises,

the Batcave is hidden behind the 88-foot

(27 metre) curtain of thundering water

known as Henrhyd Falls, the highest

of dozens of cascades in the western

Brecon Beacons.

midwalesmyway.com

breconbeacons.org

The Dai Vinci codeMargam Park is an 850-acre country

park with its own 12th-century abbey

and neo-Gothic mansion. Its also a slice

of sun-dappled Renaissance Tuscany

when theyre filming the hit US drama

Da Vincis Demons.

visitswanseabay.com

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7visitwales.com

Arts and cultureWales on film

Welsh wizardryShell Cottage, in which Harry and his

companions shelter in Harry Potter and

the Deathly Hallows, was built on the

edge of Freshwater Wests mile-long

(1.6 km) beach, where Russell Crowe also

came to film Robin Hood. Key scenes

from the 2012 fairytaleSnow White and

the Huntsman, starring Kristen Stewart,were shot nearby on Marloes Sands ...

which also featured in the 1968 historical

epic The Lion in Winter, starring Peter

OToole and Katharine Hepburn.


pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk

Dark forcesOur own Nordic-noir-style TV detective

series is so good, we filmed it twice. The

Welsh version, Y Gwyll, was broadcast on

S4C in 2013 while the English Hinterland,

which was shot simultaneously, goes

out on BBC4 in 2014. The series location

remains the same: the hauntingly

beautiful landscape around Aberystwyth.


Star quality

Theres a bit in the 2007 fantasyStardustwhen its star Claire Danes treks high

above a magical lake. Thatll be Llyn y

Fan Fach, a beautiful glacial lake on the

western edge of the Brecon Beacons.

discovercarmarthenshire.com

breconbeacons.org

Moat pointsCaerphilly Castle is the second largest

castle in Britain, and in 1995 Hollywood

big cheese Robert Downey Jr was here

to film the tragi-comic romp Restoration.

Another key location in the film was

Tretower Court near Crickhowell which,

in 2004, also welcomed Johnny Depp in

The Libertine.

thevalleys.co.uk, midwalesmyway.com

Twin peaks

So spectacular are the mountains ofSnowdonia, film-makers often use them

to represent other exotic, far-flung

locations: China in Lara Croft Tomb

Raider: The Cradle of Life (2003) and

The Inn of the Sixth Happiness(1958),

Kazakhstan for the 1999 Bond movie

The World Is Not Enough, and a rather

convincing Khyber Pass in the 1968

comedy Carry On Up The Khyber.

visitsnowdonia.info

eryri-npa.gov.uk

to Holyhead

Main

Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, the setting for

Shell Cottage in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows

Licensed By: Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All Rights Reserved

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visitwales.com8

Island paradise

The thing about islands isthat you cant look at onewithout wondering, even

for a fleeting moment,what it would feel like to bethere, standing on its cliffs

among the wheeling clouds

of seabirds, looking back atwhere you are now.

MainSkomer Island, Pembrokeshire

Inset left to rightAtlantic puffinBluebells on Skomer Island, PembrokeshireRamsey Island, Pembrokeshire

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9visitwales.com

As you meander the 870 mile(1,400 km) Wales Coast Path, youllcount around 50 Welsh islands. You

can walk to some of them at low tide.

Others shimmer tantalisingly on the far

horizon. Some are near-impossible to

reach, unless you happen to be an expert

cliff-climber or, ideally, a puffin. But youcan visit many of the best ones, and even

stay on a few.

Skomer is a cracking example, part of a

cluster of little islands off Pembrokeshire

that support some the worlds most

Coast & countryIslands

important bird colonies. Its a fabulous

day-trip across the turquoise waters of

Jack Sound, where even the seabed is a

protected nature reserve. In summer the

island throngs with guillemots, razorbills

and puffins, while fulmars and kittiwakes

fill the air like flurries of snowflakes. Grey

seals bask on the rocks below clifftopsthat offer one of the most spectacular

displays of wild flowers in Britain.

You can land on nearby Ramsey Island

too its a beautifully untouched RSPB

nature reserve or take a rib ride around

its reefs and rapids. Youll definitely see

seals, probably dolphins and porpoises,

and possibly even whales and sharks.

Back on Skomer, if you stay the night

youll witness another of natures most

incredible sights: tens of thousands of

nocturnal Manx shearwaters ghosting

back to their burrows. Theres another major colony of

these incredible little birds on Bardsey

Island, which lies off the tip of the Llyn

Peninsula. There are eight self-catering

cottages on this Island of 20,000 Saints,

which has long been a spiritual refuge.

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visitwales.com10

Talking of which, theres still an

active monastery of Benedictine

monks on Caldey Island, another

hugely popular day-trip from nearbyTenby. You can also experience

blissful island isolation just five

miles (8 km) from Cardiff city

centre on Flat Holm, another major

seabird sanctuary.

Its easy to get besotted with

Welsh islands. The TV scriptwriter

Carla Lane bought a tiny one of

her own, St Tudwals East, off the

southern tip of the Llyn Peninsula,

and turned it into a wildlife

sanctuary. Then the adventurer

Bear Grylls bought its neighbour,

St Tudwals West, and talk about

getting away from it all spends

family holidays on its few clifftop

acres.You dont have to splash out on

a whole island, though. You can

borrow one of ours. Like we say,

there are plenty to go round.

walescoastpath.gov.uk

welshwildlife.org /skomer-skokholm/

flatholmisland.com

bardsey.org

caldey-island.co.uk

rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/r/

ramseyisland/

i

Top from leftBardsey Island, Llyn PeninsulaLlanddwyn Island, Isle of Anglesey

r Water beds

Mother love

Caerfai Farm, St DavidsCottages, yurts, caravan and camp site,cheesemaking and all on a stunning clifftoplocation, just around the headland from

Ramsey Island.caerfaifarm.co.uk

Cenarth Falls Holiday Park, Cenarth

This five-star holiday park has caravans andcottages, plus great facilities for tourers and

campers, just a few minutes walk from thefamous falls on the River Teifi.cenarth-holipark.co.uk

Fog Horn Cottage, Flat HolmDont forget your toothbrush its a long swimback to the mainland from this stylish three-bed

self-catering cottage.flatholmisland.com

Plas Rhianfa, Isle of Anglesey

This architectural gem has five-star luxuryoverlooking the Menai Strait on Walessbiggest island.

chateaurhianfa.com

Ty Newydd Country Hotel, HirwaunThis comfortable hotel is right on the thresholdof Waterfall Country, and if you like whiskywith your water, Penderyn, Waless only distillery,

is nearby.tynewyddcountryhotel.co.uk

The biggest Welsh island by far is Anglesey, which was finally joinedto the mainland by Thomas Telfords magnificent suspension bridgein 1826. The island was a stronghold of druids during the Romaninvasion, and a vital source of food during later wars leading toits nickname of Mn Mam Cymru the Mother of Wales. Nowadays, its a favourite holiday destination, with attractionsthat include Plas Newydd stately home, a sea zoo, copper mines,

the most perfect medieval castle at Beaumaris, and a village called deep breath Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch.

But its the 125 mile (201 km) coastline that is the islands biggestdraw, packed with fabulous beaches, nature reserves, and the mostromantic spot in Wales, Llanddwyn Island, where theres an oldlighthouse and a ruined chapel dedicated to the Welsh patron saintof love, St Dwynwen. No wonder Prince William and Kate made theirfirst home here.

visitanglesey.co.uk

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11visitwales.com

Fall

What is it aboutwaterfalls? Theressomething surreally magical

about a torrent of water

plunging off a cliff and

into a crystal pool. At

the western edge of theBrecon Beacons, in a bit of

Wales known as Waterfall

Country, three rivers the

Mellte, Hepste and Nedd

Fechan have carved their

way through soft rocks to

create steep wooded gorges

full of caves and cascades.

Its popular with white-

water kayakers and, in

summer, wetsuit-clad

canyoning groups, but

its also a brilliant place

to experience the thrill of

walking behind a curtain of

thundering water notablyat Sgwd yr Eira, the famous

waterfall of snow.

Although the greatest

concentration of falls is

here, the highest are up

in the high mountains:

the Devils Appendix in

Snowdonia and Pistyll y Llyn

in the Cambrian range. And

the most spectacular? Well,

thats a matter of opinion,

but the 239 feet (73 metre)

high Pistyll Rhaeadr, in the

Berwyn Mountains, has the

advantage of a car park two

minutes walk from the base.And to be fair, it is utterly

spellbinding.

breconbeacons.org

midwalesmyway.com

pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk

visitsnowdonia.info


Coast & countryWaterfalls

at your feetBet you didnt bargain for a waterfall of

snow and the Devils Appendix to beamong the sights on your visit to Wales.

Sgwd yr Eira, Brecon Beacons National Park

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beachperfect

The

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Llwyb

rArfordirCym

Wa

lesCoast

Pa t

13visitwales.com

The Wales Coast Path is the longest continuous coastal path

in the world. Along its 870 mile (1,400 km) length there are

hundreds of harbours, coves, inlets and, of course, beaches.

Lots of them. And one of them will be your favourite. So

whichll it be? Here are ten to get you started.

Abersoch, SnowdoniaTheres always a lively family feel to

Abersoch, one of our best watersports

centres. Its at its most vibrant during

the August Regatta which, apart

from all the serious sailing stuff,

features raft-racing, crab-catching

and sandcastle-building contests.

visitsnowdonia.info

Barafundle, PembrokeshireIts impossible to pick our prettiest

beach, but this Pembrokeshire gem,

backed by dunes and pine trees, alwayscrops up. Theres something almost

Caribbean about Barafundle, which

is all the better for being a half-mile

(0.8 km) walk from the nearest car park.


Barmouth, SnowdoniaHuge and picturesque, Barmouth

beach is always popular but never

overcrowded. Barmouth itself is a proper

British seaside resort, complete with

trampolines, ice creams, arcade games,donkey rides and a vintage railway.

visitsnowdonia.info

Benllech, Isle of AngleseyThis small holiday town is set on

a crescent-shaped bay, with fine

sand that stretches for miles. Its

also blissfully easy to get to, even

for pushchairs and wheelchairs.

visitanglesey.co.uk

Llangrannog, CeredigionTheres nothing flashy about the

village its just a cluster of houses

wedged between two headlands,

with waves lapping at their toes. The

coastal footpath leads you through

clouds of wild flowers that are alive

with butterflies in summer.


Cefn Sidan, CarmarthenshireThis whopping eight-mile (12 km) beach

has plenty of room for everyone, and

young nature detectives can climbthe dunes to track down grasshoppers

and other mini beasts. Its all part

of Pembrey Country Park, which has

play areas and an equestrian centre,

dry ski slope and toboggan run.


Porthdinllaen, SnowdoniaOnly locals are allowed to drive to this

perfect little harbour hamlet. But never

mind its a lovely short walk along the

beach, or through Nefyns famouslybeautiful golf course, to reach it. Its an

idyllic cove and natural harbour, with

the added bonus of a cracking pub, the

Ty Coch Inn, which has just been voted

one of the worlds best beach bars.

visitsnowdonia.info

Rhossili, Gower PeninsulaWell, we had to mention our cover star,

didnt we? Rhossilis three-mile (4.8 km)

golden sands come with a genuine

shipwreck, and if you time the tides

right, theres a fabulous walk out to the

promontory known as Worms Head.

visitswanseabay.com

Southerndown,Vale of GlamorganThe Glamorgan Heritage Coasts multi-

layered cliffs occasionally drop down into

sandy bays. This is a favourite with surfersand families, and theres a great clifftop

walk to the ruins of Dunraven Castle.

visitthevale.com

Tenby, PembrokeshireWere cheating a bit here, since

theres not one fantastic beach in

Tenby, but three. The Rough Guide

to Walesdescribes this pretty little

town as everything a seaside resort

should be and it was recently voted

one of the UKs top five beachdestinations by Tripadvisor.


Coast & countryBeaches

walescoastpath.gov.uk

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visitwales.com14

Wild

MainYnys-hir RSPB Reserve, near Machynlleth

Opposite clockwise from top leftDolphin-watching off the Ceredigion CoastWales Coast Path, near LlangrannogRed kite

There are two things you need to understand about themaverick TV presenter Chris Packham. Firstly, hes a properhardcore naturalist, with a phenomenal passion for a subject

that he knows inside-out. Secondly, he was an original 1970s

punk, with the hair and anti-authority attitude to match.

The 52-year-old from Southampton is now the mainstay

of TV wildlife programmes, but the teenage punk is never far

beneath the surface. Hes famous for nipping song titles ofhis favourite bands into his drily witty narration: The Smiths,

The Clash, and the Manic Street Preachers have all made

unexpected cameos.

Packham even managed to slip 51 David Bowie song titles

into the 2012 series of BBCSpringwatch, just for the ridiculous

joy of it.

The series was based at the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir, where

for three years the BBC carried out its biggest and most

complex outside broadcast, with a crew of 100 descending

on the impossibly pretty Dyfi Estuary in remotest Mid Wales.

The spiky charm of Chris Packhamhas

made him one of Britains best-lovednaturalists. And he thinks that what Wales

really needs is well, some beavers.

at heart

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15visitwales.com

How did you enjoy your time at Ynys-hir?

It was fantastic, a real treat. The RSPB reserve itselfis beautiful to look at, and its got a range of habitats

fresh water, the coastal water, the estuary, the oak

woodland, the bog all in a relatively compact site.

And this brings with it a great diversity of species,

which really paid off, because we had some great

stories and contributors, both animals and human.

The RSPB and the local people were extraordinarily

hospitable, too, so we very much enjoyed our time

there.

So it wasnt your first time down these parts?Heavens no! Ive travelled in Wales a tremendous

amount. The first time was when I was 15 yearsold, in the mid-1970s, when I caught the National

Express bus and went to Cwmystwyth to spend a

couple of weeks in the spring, to see what remained

of the red kites. The same summer I went back to

Llangrannog to warden some peregrine falcons,

which were very endangered at the time.

Both species have bounced back since then,

thankfully.

Red kites are incredibly common in Mid Wales now.

Can you overdo the re-introduction thing?No. But you have to expect change. Weve livedthrough a time when kites were very rare, and

that had an impact on all the other creatures

around them. When you put an animal back into

an environment, everything has to rebalance. Kites

are largely scavengers, though, and no science has

so far proved that their re-introduction has had a

negative impact on other birds. Ultimately whats

right is to have as many species that can live in an

area, living in it. Thats why re-introduction is overall

a good idea because its trying to rebuild the proper

biodiversity of that region.

What about beavers? In parts of Wales theres acampaign to bring them backYes! This ought to have happened years ago! Beavers

will be great news for Wales on many counts. Firstly,

they will have a profoundly positive impact on

biodiversity, making it much better for fish, insects,

reptiles and birds of many species. Secondly, theyll

be a great draw for tourism, because people like

BBCsSpringwatchchose Ynys-hiras its base for very good reason:its one of the best places in Walesto see birds, bugs and butterfliesin a gorgeous setting of oakwoodland with wet grassland andsaltmarshes. rspb.org.uk

i RSPB Ynys-hir

Coast & countryWildlife

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visitwales.com16

beavers and will come and see them.

And further, if they do present a problem

to any of our human interests, which

is unlikely, we have learned over many

years how to manage them. So I really

hope this progresses quickly and we get

these animals back.

Talking of tourism, what can we do astourists to reduce our impact on theenvironment?

If you go to Wales, spend money inWales! Spend money in the local B&Bs,

hotels, pubs and restaurants. Try and

put as much money back into the local

community as possible. So dont eat in

a restaurant where theyre selling food

from the Caribbean, go somewhere

where youre eating Welsh lamb and

Welsh vegetables. Thats the responsible

thing to do. Make it fruitful for the

people who actually live and work there.

Sheep farming is not an easy business, so

if you go to a pub where theyre selling

genuinely locally-sourced food, thenthat pays dividends for that landscape.

And its the landscape which provides

the fundamental building blocks of

everything that lives on it and in it.

Some environmentalists think weve gotfar too many sheep, dont they?Yes, and theyre right, but its not specific

to Wales. The whole of the UK is a

man-modified landscape. The uplands

were cleared of trees a long, long time

ago. Theyve been drained and thegrassland has been improved for the

benefit of sheep. Sheep do overgraze,

which prevents the natural regeneration

of trees. So yes, sheep have an impact.

Equally, for a long time theyve been a

very important part of farming in Wales,

and they play a role, too. Its about trying

to balance the benefits and needs of

farming, and the benefits of putting the

land back as it was.

So youd like to see tracts of Walesrestored to what it once was: Atlanticrainforest?Of course, and tracts is the right word.

Not all of it. Im quite happy to support

sheep farmers, too. Obviously Id like

them to modify the way they do some

things, and Im happy to pay for them to

do that. But tracts of Atlantic rainforest

running in from the Welsh coast would

be tremendous. Places like Ynys-hir have

tiny fragments, and it would be nice tosee them a lot more extensive.

What about our other habitats? Shouldwe treasure our bogs as much as ourmountains?Everyone loves mountains, and they do

make a more spectacular postcard than

the average bog, but to the average

naturalist theres a lot going on in the less

attractive landscapes. I remember going

out on Tregaron Bog for the first time

in the 1970s and being really excited by

that great, open, muddy wetland coveredin lichens and teeming with birds. It

was fantastic, and equally worthy of

protection.

Do you, as a naturalist, try and harnessthe power of being on the telly?I dont consider myself a celebrity, Im

just a bloke who talks about wildlife on

TV. But theres a very strong vocational

element in everything I do. I want some

of my own enthusiasm and passion for

the subject to rub off, because I wantas many people as possible to look after

our landscape. And ultimately thats why

I get up in the morning and do things

likeSpringwatch. Im trying to say to that

audience, look, this is brilliant, its in your

back yard, have some of it for yourself.

And when youve learnt to love it, look

after it. Thats my mantra.

Chris Packhams Wales

Wales is a very rich and compact area,

so it has a tremendous amount tooffer in terms of natural history (Imalso keen on history, by the way, soIve been to all the castles, too).My first trips to Wales were on thebus as a teenager, but as soon asI could drive myself, I was away. Iremember with great fondness myfirst trip to Skomer Island off thePembrokeshire coast, which wasjust magical. Nearby are Bosherston

Lily Ponds which, in summer, is oneof the most beautiful places in theUK, without a shadow of a doubt.One year I spent a summer lookingat all the species of orchid I couldfind, and I went to the Great Ormenear Llandudno to look at dark redhelleborine, which are very rare.Newborough Warren on Anglesey

is one of my favourite places in theUK. Sand dune systems are few

and far between these days, andNewborough is a beautiful place fullof fantastic plants and birds.Theres so much more to explore,though. Id love to have a couple ofmonths off with my friend [fellownaturalist] Iolo Williams as my guide,so he could take me to all the placesI havent been.visitpembrokeshire.com

visitllandudno.org.uk

visitanglesey.co.uk

i

Clockwise from top leftDyfi Estuary, near MachynllethNewborough Warren, Anglesey

Presenter, Chris PackhamDolphin, Ceredigion coast

OtterBluebell woodland near Aberystwyth

Tintern Forest, Wye Valley

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17visitwales.com

OspreysOspreys nest from April to late summer on the

Cors-dyfi reserve near Machynlleth. Other birds

of prey regularly seen include red kite, honey

buzzard and marsh and hen harriers. Theres

also a herd of water buffalo that help to

manage the wetlands. dyfiospreyproject.com

DolphinsAlthough dolphins can be regularly seen fromthe shore, the Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife

Centre organises boat trips from April onwards.

cbmwc.org

OttersVisitors often report seeing otters at the lovely

Gilfach Farm reserve near Rhayader. The best

time to visit is October to December when

otters come to the waterfalls to chase the

leaping salmon. rwtwales.org

Fields of orchidsSituated above the beautiful Wye Valley, the

Pentywn Farm reserve provides commanding

views. Early summer sees thousands of green-

winged orchids in spectacular wildflower

meadows.gwentwildlife.org

Red kitesOnce on the edge of extinction, there are now

an estimated 1,000 breeding pairs of red kites

in Wales. Feeding stations where visitors can

experience these magnificent birds close up

include Gigrin Farm and the Red Kite FeedingCentre in the west of the Brecon Beacons

National Park.gigrin.co.uk, redkiteswales.com

PuffinsThere are an estimated 16,000 puffins and

300,000 Manx shearwaters on the world-

renowned Skomer and Skokholm islands, which

are also home to large numbers of grey seals.

Boats run daily from March to December.

welshwildlife.org

Seabirds that have migrated50,000 milesWith well over 1,000 nesting pairs of sandwich

terns, Cemlyn on Anglesey is an internationally

important site for seabirds. The arctic tern,

which also nests here, migrates up to 50,000

miles (80,467 km) every year between the

Arctic and Antarctic.

northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk

A festival of butterfliesOver 30 species of butterfly can be found in

the dramatic former quarry of Llanymynech,

smack bang on the border between Wales

and England. Fortunately the local wildflife

trust have produced a guide, so you can tell

your Grizzled Skipper from your White Letter

Hairstreak.

shropshirewildlifetrust.org.uk

Magical bluebell woodsCarpets of bluebells cover the ancientwoodlands in many parts of Wales, but few

reach the dazzling heights of Coed y Felin, just

outside Mold in Flintshire. Down south try the

Coed Dyrysiog reserve just outside Brecon.

northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk,

brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk

Autumn leaf splendourFor autumnal blazes of colour, the valleys

of South East Wales rival the forests of

New England. The Silent Valley reserve near

Ebbw Vale is a perfect example, while thePwll-y-Wrach reserve near Talgarth has

spectacular autumn colours in ancient

woodland running down to plunging

waterfalls along the River Enig.

gwentwildlife.org, brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk

Coast & countryDays out

Soaring red kites, frolicking dolphins and leaping salmon: Wales has

just the kind of wildlife that grabs the imagination. And its all easy

to spot, says Phil Hurstof Wildlife Trusts Wales. wtwales.org

Ten wild days out in Wales

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Everythings

visitwales.com18

There are far too many lovely

gardens and environmental

projects to squeeze into thispostage stamp of magazinespace. But here are someselected highlights.

Dyffryn Gardens,Vale of GlamorganImagine a 55-acre house made of plants

and flowers. Landscape artist Thomas

Mawson created the gardens at Dyffryn

as a collection of rooms in the shadow ofa grand Victorian mansion house made

of more traditional building material.

nationaltrust.org.uk/dyffryn-gardens

National Botanic Gardenof Wales, CarmarthenshireAs if building the biggest, striking single

span glasshouse in the world wasnt

enough, the old grounds of 17th-

century Middleton Hall is a great place

to discover flora and fauna from all over

the world. Behind the scenes there area whole host of environmental projects

going on too.

gardenofwales.org.uk

Aberglasney House and Gardens,CarmarthenshireThe origins of this magnificent Queen

Anne style house date back to medieval

times. A major restoration project

includes an Elizabethan Cloister Garden,

Pool Garden, Lower and Upper Walled

Gardens and Ninfarium an exotic

glass-roofed atrium with orchids, palms

and magnolias inspired by the gardens

of Ninfa, south of Rome.

aberglasney.org

Llanerchaeron, CeredigionBuilt by John Nash (architect of

Buckingham Palace), the walled

kitchen garden of this minor gentry

estate functions as it did 200 years

ago providing abundant organic fruit,

vegetables and herbs, which you can

buy in the shop at the house.

nationaltrust.org.uk/llanerchaeron

Brondanw, SnowdoniaSir Clough Williams-Ellis is renowned for

creating the remarkable village of nearby

Portmeirion, which features wonderful

exotic woodland well worth visiting.

The gardens of Brondanw are less well-

known, but were another of Cloughs

lifetime projects that create a unique

atmosphere with creative use of the

natural landscape.

brondanw.org

Plas Tan y Bwlch, SnowdoniaIts less catchy name is The Snowdonia

National Park Environmental Studies

Centre. This splendid country house,

which was lit by electricity from its own

hydro-electric source as far back as the1890s, benefits from striking Victorian

gardens featuring sloping lawns, large

conifers and bursts of colour from

rhododendron and azalea. There are

semi-wild woodland areas featuring

native flora and fauna intermingled

with exotic imports from further afield.

eryri-npa.gov.uk/study-centre/gardens

Veddw House, MonmouthshireDescribed as a modern romantic garden,

Veddw is the imaginative brainchild ofwriter Anne Wareham and photographer

Charles Hawes. It has won acclaim (Most

Original Garden 2012 in Readers Digest

magazine) and has courted controversy.

It almost demands a visit so you can

make your own mind up about its

innovative, environmentally-sympathetic

approach.

veddw.com

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Gone Green

19visitwales.com

Coast & countryGardens

Centre for Alternative Technology, PowysImagine a one-stop resource of information

and demonstration regarding sustainable living.

Now stop imagining, because CAT covers

the lot, including several gardens offering

inspirational ideas on how you can maintainyour own flourishing patch of greenery.

cat.org.uk

Bodnant Garden, ConwyLike a giant horticultural stamp collection, a

diverse range of seeds and cuttings from all

over the world were collected over a century

ago to create the gardens of Bodnant. There

are formal terraces with views over the Conwy

Valley, the river Hiraethlyn runs through the

Dell, while the changing seasons offer dramatic

varieties of colour in the shrub borders.nationaltrust.org.uk/bodnant-garden

Erddig Hall, WrexhamAn impressive country house set in over a thousand

acres of land, the huge 18th-century walled garden

features rare fruit trees, the symmetry of a Victorian

parterre and one of the longest herbaceous

borders in Britain. Visitors can also book guided

environmental learning sessions.

nationaltrust.org.uk/erddig/

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A tale oftwo citiesOur two biggest cities are going places. Swanseaand Cardiffnow have football teams in

the Premiership for the first time in history, so we asked international wheelchair athlete

and television presenter Liam Holtto pay a visit and see how both cities line up.

Swansea

Its a chicken-and-egg situation. I cantwork out if the style of football SwanseaCity play confident, stylish, laid-back

comes from the city itself, or if it works

the other way: if some of that footballing

panache is rubbing off on the city.

Either way, theres a definite buzz

about the place, which we feel the

moment we set foot outside theSwansea Marriott, a waterfront hotel

which is perfectly placed for exploring

the citys main attractions.

We start with a history lesson at the

National Waterfront Museum, which tells

the story of industry and innovation in

Wales, now and over the last 300 years.

Its a very interactive place, with a perfect

combination of original artifacts and

touch-screen computer displays, which

allow people to explore deeper into

the exhibits. Its particularly great forkids, as they can work in a technological

environment that appeals to them.

After all that science, were in the

mood for some art, so we head to the

nearby Mission Gallery, which crams a

huge amount of creative power into a

relatively small space.

The same could be said of Pierre

Donahue, a local singer-songwriter who

plays percussion for The Dukes Box,

an extraordinary wait for it human

jukebox. Basically theyve taken a tiny

vintage caravan, sawn off the front and

replaced it with a Perspex sheet and

jukebox-style buttons. People push a

pound into the slot, choose their song,

and the live band play it!

The Dukes Box has played festivals all

over Europe, and now Pierre has founded

his own left-field event in Swansea, analternative Dylan Thomas celebration

called the Do Not Go Gentle festival.

Its a celebration of the legendary Welsh

poet in his home suburb of the Uplands,

Swansea, explains Pierre. We aim to be

a festival Dylan might have liked, and yes

that involves beer, but it also involves

cosy and atmospheric venues, great acts

and the people of Swansea who first

inspired him to write all those years ago.

Right, thats culture and science ticked,

so now Im off to get physical. Swanseais mad about sport, whether its regional

rugby and football at the Liberty Stadium,

county cricket at St Helens, or surfing

on the Gower Peninsula. If youre an

outdoors person and into watersport

then you have to visit 360, a new

multisport activity centre that provides

beach and watersports all year round, no

matter the weather, just along the beach

from the city centre.

Its not just a sports centre, either

theres a good caf, which adds a

social aspect and opens the beach up

to everyone from dog walkers to kite

flyers. Its also worth mentioning the

accessibility, too: the beach is normally

the natural enemy of the wheelchair

but 360 conquers this with multiple

accessible toilets and changing rooms,

and its the first beachfront venue inWales to have a Changing Places facility

hoists, changing tables, etc for those

who need extra support.

Sitting at a beach caf, right next to

the sand, watching people kayaking and

playing beach volleyball its not quite

how I imagined Swansea to be. But I like

it, a lot.

marriott.co.uk

museumwales.ac.uk/en/swansea

missiongallery.co.ukthedukesbox.com

donotgogentlefestival.com

360swansea.co.uk

Clockwise from top left360 Beach and Watersports

Dylan Thomass Captain Cat, Swansea marinaMission Gallery

National Waterfront MuseumMission Gallery

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21visitwales.com

Cities & townsA tale of two cities

Perhaps more than anyother Welsh city, Swanseacares about its food (itboasts the biggest andbest covered market inWales) and this is reflectedin lots of deliciouslyindependent-mindedplaces to eat.Truffle Restaurant(truffle-swansea.co.uk)feels a bit like going to ahouse party, thanks to itsbring your own boozepolicy and utter lack of airsand graces. The staff andcustomers enjoy a bit ofbanter (I was made fun offor not ordering a moremanly starter!), its great

value and the dessertswere awesome.I liked Mosaic(mosaicswansea.com)even more: a quirkymodern restaurant whichin terms of independentbusinesses just gets it,from the decor to themenu (the names alone

are hilarious!). During theday its a laid-back lounge,but in the evening theytransform the place intoa lively tapas restaurant,with projections on thewalls and live music on araised stage above the bar.The food at the Grape& Olive(swansea.

grapeandolive.co.uk) isntas innovative, but givenits location the top floorof Waless tallest building its worth a visit just forthe amazing views.Finally, you cant visitSwansea without a tripto local institution.Joes Ice Cream Parlour

(joes-icecream.com)founded in 1922 by theson of Italian immigrants.Joe Cascarini introducedthe familys secret ice-cream recipe to the cityand it has never left.Quite simply its the mostamazing ice cream I haveEVER had!

Eating out in Swansea

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Clockwise from leftCardiff CastleWales Millennium Centre, Cardiff BayMillennium StadiumRoyal Arcade

Cardiff

Ithought I knew Cardiff pretty well.I moved here nine years ago, and Idefinitely consider it to be my home. Intrue fashion though, when a city becomesyour home you kind of take it for granted.You dont really explore what it has tooffer its just there! So it was fascinatingto spend a weekend in Cardiff as a touristagain and re-discover just how great it is.

All the icons are correct and present:

the castle, the Millennium Stadiumwhich dominates the central skyline, the

neoclassical Civic Centre, the shiny new

shopping malls.

Since Im being a tourist, I start at the

top of most visitors list: Cardiff Castle.

With over 2,000 years of history, its

an incredible mash-up of all the major

historical events that have shaped

Cardiff, from Roman times, through

Norman conquest, to the fabulous wealth

that coal brought here.

The 3rd Marquess of Bute was thebiggest influence on how the castle looks

today. Bute hired the flamboyant (and

expensive) designer William Burges to

work with him in the design of his living

quarters, which reflect their fascination

with all things medieval. With Burgess

vision and Butes money, there were no

limits to their sumptuous designs.

Its the little details that you remember,

though: I particularly liked the little

statues of monkeys reading books, which

were apparently Butes way of mocking

Darwins theory of evolution.

Cardiff itself continues to evolve. The

weekends highlight for me was exploring

the independent businesses that are

flourishing in the old arcades which

intertwined with the more commercial

shops. The eclectic shops within each

arcade have a real charm about them,

from local skate shop City Surf to Spillers

Records (opened in 1894 the oldestrecord shop in the world). I even took the

opportunity to do some research for my

wedding in Hubbards Cupboard in Castle

Arcade, which was a bit of a dangerous

move with my fiance with me!

And Cardiff isnt just about the city

centre any more: the individual boroughs

are emerging strongly and making names

for themselves places like Cathays,

Roath, Canton and Pontcanna offer

their own high streets by day and an

alternative night out for people lookingfor something a bit different.

A good example of this new generation

of pioneers is Simon Thomas, who owns

a record shop called Catapult in the Duke

Street Arcade. But its more than that. Its

also a record label, and a clothing brand.

His latest business is a pop-up restaurant

called Chucks, which shone brightly last

summer in an old disused dairy.

Simon, like many of the bright young

independents in Cardiff, is on a mission:

to inspire. Im not in it for the money,

he laughs. I do it because I want to. I

started Chucks simply because it was the

kind of place I wanted to eat. But at the

same time a business like mine gives the

chance to develop the careers of other

Cardiff locals, whether theyre musicians

on the label or chefs in the kitchen.

Im not against commercial

businesses, says Simon. I just want

people to have the choice of wherethey eat and shop a quality, credible

alternative to the mainstream.

Back at the hotel, Im thoroughly

enjoying my tourist trip to my home

town. Were staying at the Park Plaza,

a relaxed hotel right in the city centre,

with its own spa and health club. After a

couple of hours in the steam room and

the unique stainless steel pool, I feel like

a new man. At least, after the deep tissue

massage, I feel like Ive got a new pair of

shoulders. More than that, Ive seen myadopted home city in a whole new light.

And it feels really, really good.

millenniumstadium.com

cardiffcastle.com

citysurfshops.co.uk

spillersrecords.co.uk

hubbardscupboardonline.co.uk

catapult.co.uk

parkplazacardiff.com

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visitwales.com 23

Im pretty easy going when it comes to things like this. Ialways approach accessibility with a where theres a willtheres a way attitude.

Over two weekends spent in Swansea and Cardiff I was

treated just as any visitor would be and thats how I like

it. I didnt encounter any obstacles in terms of wheelchair

access. Both hotels had rooms with plenty of wheeling

space and the bathrooms had all the necessary equipment.

Staff at all the restaurants were really accommodating

by allocating a table that was easy to get to and making

sure a chair was removed to enable me to roll straight in!

I was particularly impressed with Cardiff Castle. Itsa Grade I listed building with its origins dating back to

Roman times. You dont really expect to be able to access

all areas of the castle, but if theres a heritage building

demonstrating just what can be achieved with a sincere

commitment to accessibility, then Cardiff Castle is it. There

were lifts installed to allow wheelchair access not only

to the castle tunnels but also to the main rooms of the

mansion!

360 Beach & Watersports in Swansea offers genuinely

innovative levels of disabled access. Suddenly youve

got none of the usual worries: How am I going to get

changed? or How am I going to go to the toilet? Using abeach wheelchair eliminates further issues by enabling easy

access across the sand and into the sea. Its great to see a

visitor attraction offering such levels of inclusivity.

If youre looking to plan a visit to Wales and you need

sound advice regarding accessibility matters:

visitwales.com/explore/accessible-wales

Access all areasThink that a country known for its

coastline and castles might be off

limits for wheelchair users?

Cities & townsAccess all areas

Cardiff has all the big-name chains like JamiesandCarluccios, as well as a great selection of home-grownindependents. Milgi Lounge(milgilounge.com) is aperfect example: a vegetarian restaurant on City Road,a mile or so out of town. It has a real community feel,with locally sourced food and a clientele of all differentages and styles, so no one seems out of place. Their

cocktails are amazing, especially the Milgi Mojito, madewith elderflower and lychee. Its not just a restaurant,either: they hold live music and storytelling eveningsin the yurt in the rear garden, and art exhibitions andmarkets in the lane and garages behind.Mint & Mustard(mintandmustard.com) has a fantasticreputation locally for its South Indian cuisine, and nowIve been there I can see why! You dont just go there toeat; you go there for the complete dining experience.La Cuina(lacuina.co.uk) is a family-run Catalan placethats a deli by day and a restaurant by night. Itsrelatively new but already a hotspot with local foodies (it

was packed when we visited). Then theres Torre Coffee,another family business run by an Italian-Romanianhusband and wife team. The cakes are amazing, andtheyre especially welcoming for families and its rightopposite Cardiff Castle.

Eating out in Cardiff

For more information on Swansea and Cardiff visit:visitswanseabay.comand visitcardiff.com

Above Jamies Italian

AboveTV presenter Liam Holt

360 Beach and Watersports, Swansea

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Swansea regularly tops studentsatisfaction surveys of universitytowns, and its easy to see why studentslove it here. The whole city hugs the vast

crescent of Swansea Bay, giving a chilled-

out seaside vibe to the city by day, and

one of good-natured indulgence by

night, notably in the bars and clubs of

Wind Street and Kingsway.

So where to start? The new SA1

area is as good a place as any, a smart

waterfront development, crowned

with Waless tallest building, that has

transformed a post-War eyesore that ledDylan Thomas to describe his birthplace

as a lovely, ugly town.

Swansea has changed a lot since

Dylan lived here, and the city centre

has been thoroughly modernised,

undoing the damage done by wartime

bombing and, worse, hasty post-War

rebuilding. But hed still recognise several

local landmarks: the castle, museum

(swanseamuseum.co.uk), the excellent

covered market (swanseaindoormarket.

co.uk) and, of course, the house in whichhe was born (5cwmdonkindrive.com).

He might also be flattered to discover

that the old Guildhall is now the Dylan

Thomas Centre (dylanthomas.com).

Hopefully hed approve of some of the

newcomers, too, like the exotic indoor

rainforest that blossoms beneath the

striking pyramid hot-house of Plantasia

(plantasia.org), the hi-tech LC waterpark

(thelcswansea.com), and the NationalWaterfront Museum (museumwales.ac.uk

en/swansea), which tells the story of our

industrial and sea-faring past as well as

our technological future.

Swansea is a coastal gateway to an

unspoilt area of wild coastal countryside

to rival any other. Head west through

the chichi village of Mumbles, with its

boutiques and restaurants, and you

soon arrive on the Gower Peninsula

(visitswanseabay.com/gower), the first

place in Britain designated an Area Of

Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1949.Its got some truly wonderful beaches,

including Three Cliffs Bay and the huge

expanse of Rhossili (see cover photo),

which are both regular fixtures in lists of

the most scenic sights in Britain.

The eastern rim of Swansea Bay is

worth a visit, too. Margam Country

Park (margamcountrypark.co.uk ) has a

grand castle, 18th-century Orangery,

ornamental gardens, deer park and

Go Ape high-wire forest adventure,

all set within 1,000 acres of stunningcountryside.

Swansea is also the starting point of

the Heart of Wales railway line (heart-

of-wales.co.uk), which potters through

our farming heartland before plunging

through mountain tunnels on its

picturesque journey to Shrewsbury.

visitswanseabay.com

Where to go, what to do and how to do it

Swansea48hours

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Opposite page from topMumbles, gateway to the Gower Peninsula

Swansea vs Manchester Utd, Liberty Stadium, SwanseaSwansea indoor market

Walking on Rhossili Down, Gower Peninsula

This page from topBute Park, CardiffWales Millennium Centre, Cardiff

Cardiff Bays busy waterfrontDoctor Who Experience, Cardiff Bay

Okay, you have 48 hours to exploreour capital city. So lets goshopping. Cardiffs one of the best retailcities in the UK, thanks to the mighty

St Davids centre (stdavidscardiff.com ),

part of a 700m transformation of the

city centre. It has more than 160 stores

including John Lewis restaurants and

cafs, all set snugly in the compact heart

of the city. There are also seven historic

shopping arcades (visitcardiff.com) and

Cardiff Market (cardiff-market.co.uk),

a proper old-style glass-roofed jobbie.

There are museums and galleries galorein the city centre. The National Museum

Cardiff (museumwales.ac.uk /en/cardiff)

tells four and a half million years

of Welsh history and also houses

one of the finest art collections in

Europe. Just outside the city is

St Fagans: National History Museum

(museumwales.ac.uk/en/stfagans),

a fantastic open-air museum and

deservedly one of the most popular

visitor attractions in Wales.

The city has more than 2,000 acres ofparkland, making it the greenest capital

city in Europe. Bute Park (cardiff.gov.uk)

is a stunning stretch of greenery that

reaches right down into the heart of the

city, where it bumps into the Animal

Wall of sculptures next to Cardiff Castle

(cardiffcastle.com).

Cardiff bursts with music and drama

too, from venues like St Davids Hall

(stdavidshallcardiff.co.uk), Motorpoint

Arena (livenation.co.uk ) and the WalesMillennium Centre (wmc.org.uk) to

intimate spaces like Chapter Arts Centre

(chapter.org) which also has an

excellent caf and bar and Clwb Ifor

Bach (clwb.net). There are countless

places to relax with good food and drink.

Thanks to the docks of Tiger Bay, this

was Britains first multi-cultural city, which

is reflected in the food: pretty much

all cultures are represented, from Brazil

to Bengal, along with the best locally-

sourced Welsh produce.

This is a city that parties everyweekend. The clubs of St Mary Street

and Greyfriars Road are the epicentre of

the action, but you dont have to look

far to find an authentic Welsh pub selling

Brains beer, like the legendary City Arms

(thecityarms.com), or a laid-back bar

like 10 Feet Tall (10feettallcardiff.com)

which has a great cocktail menu and a DJ

crafting a nice groove.

As youre making a weekend of it,

youll have time for a little exploration.

Cardiff Bay (visitcardiffbay.info) offersstriking architecture to explore both

old and new as well as plenty of

places to eat and drink, plus attractions

like the science museum Techniquest

(techniquest.org), Dr Who Experience

(doctorwhoexperience.com) and the

superb Cardiff International White Water

(ciww.com).

visitcardiff.com

Cities & towns48 Hours

Cardiff

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visitwales.com26

2Abergavenny, MonmouthshireThis is a proper market town three a

week, no less and a fabulous place to poke

around home-grown shops and galleries. Its the

gastronomic capital of Wales, too, with Britainsbest food and drink festival held every September.

You can burn off the calories by walking one

of the seven hills that enfold the town.

visitwyevalley.com, abergavennyfoodfestival.com

Where to stay:The Angel Hotel is the kind ofcoaching inn that every town wishes it had, and

its sister restaurant, The Walnut Tree, is the most

celebrated in Wales with two adjoining self-catering

cottages. angelabergavenny.com,

thewalnuttreeinn.com

3Llandrindod Wells, PowysThe Victorians flocked to Llandod for its

healing spring waters, and its mid-point location

still makes it a popular conference town. This means

its got plenty of things to amuse all year round

(including a weekly market) but it really shines

during the annual Victorian Festival in August.

midwalesmywales.com

Where to stay:The Metropole is the biggest ofdozens of options in a town geared up for visitors.

metropole.co.uk

Market leadersAway from the big cities and coastal resorts, rural Wales has plenty

of fabulous market towns. Like this magnificent seven, for instance

2 4

3 5

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4Machynlleth, PowysTheres a lovely vibe to Mach, a

handsome market town the street market

is every Wednesday where local farmers

rub shoulders with off-beat hippie influences.Theres a very good modern art gallery,

MOMA, and the nearby Centre for Alternative

Technology is a gem. midwalesmyway.com,

momawales.org.uk, cat.org.uk

Where to stay:The Wynnstay Hotel hasa lovely heart-of-the-community feel, and

fabulous Ynyshir Hall is a short drive away.

wynnstay-hotel.com, ynyshirhall.co.uk

5Llanrwst, ConwyIn 1947 Llanrwst declared itself an

independent state and applied (only half-jokingly) for a seat at the United Nations.

Its still a wonderfully free-spirited market

town, at the heart of the Conwy Valley,

perfectly positioned for Snowdonias coast

and mountains. visitsnowdonia.infoWhere to stay:Plas Maenan, the mansionon a rock is a lovely country house with

brilliant views of the valley below.

plas-maenan-hotel.co.uk

6Cowbridge,Vale of Glamorgan

The Cardiff posh commute from here, the

Vale of Glamorgans most glamorous address.

Even for all the boutiques, galleries and cafs,Cowbridge remains the heart of the Vales

farming community, so it still has lots of

good honest muck on its wellies. Best of

both worlds, really. visitthevale.comWhere to stay:The Bear coaching inn cantrace its origins back to the 12th century, and

is still doing a roaring trade. bearhotel.com

7Ruthin, DenbighshireIt bills itself as the most charming small

town in Wales, and were not arguing. Theres

an excellent craft centre, and even the oldgaol, which closed in 1976, now offers a warm

welcome to its fascinating museum. All in all,

the perfect base for exploring the Clwydian

hills. northeastwales.co.ukWhere to stay:Manorhaus is a boutiquerestaurant-with-rooms that doubles as an

art gallery, while the towns castle is now

a sumptuous spa hotel. manorhaus.com,

ruthincastle.co.uk

1Llandeilo, CarmarthenshireThe cool capital of Carmarthenshire, as the London press call it, sits prettily on

a hill overlooking one of the loveliest valleys in Wales. There are plenty of boutiquesand cafs to graze, and its a short walk through a wooded nature reserve to Dinefwr

Castle, an ancient royal capital. There are also excellent music, jazz and literary festivals.


Where to stay:The Cawdor is the beating heart of the towns social scene, while Fronlasis the chicest of B&Bs. thecawdor.com, fronlas.com

6

7

Cities & townsMarket leaders

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visitwales.com28

Events DiaryFrom beer festivals to major sporting events, cultural celebrations to feastsof food, theres plenty to keep you occupied in Wales this year. As you can

plainly see, were not shy of hosting a party.

2014 is the centenary celebration of the birth of Dylan Thomas, the highly

influential literary figure of the late 20th century. The Senior Open golf

championship is hosted in Wales for the first time at Royal Porthcawl Golf

Club, following in the groundbreaking footsteps of The 2010 Ryder Cup.

Along with literary festivals, numerous music celebrations and, of course,

bog-snorkelling championships, why not plan your visit to Wales in

conjunction with one of these world-renowned events?

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29visitwales.com

11th January

Saturnalia Beer Festival & Chariot

Race, Llanwrtyd Wells

Saturnalia was the major midwinter

Roman festival. In this version,

participants are encouraged to wear

Roman dress, eat Roman food, quaff fine

ales and party with friends. You can even

compete in the World Mountain BikeChariot Racing Championship.

green-events.co.uk

February

Classic FM Live in Wales

Cardiff

Held at the Wales Millennium Centre,

Classic FM Live combines the very best

international performers with the very

best talents in Wales, making classical

music accessible to a wide audience.

classicfm.com

1st February

Wales v Italy, Cardiff

The Millennium Stadium hosts the first

rugby union international of the Six

Nations Championship. As defending

champions, Wales take on Italy.


4th 14th February

Quiltfest, Llangollen

Anything and everything to do with

quilt making: exhibitions, competition,

demonstrations and workshops.

quiltfest.org.uk

6th 11th February

Abertawe Festival for YoungMusicians, Swansea

An annual musical event featuring

competitive piano, strings, woodwind

and ensemble sections.

afymswansea.co.uk

1st March

St Davids Day Parade

To celebrate our patron saints day,

parades and events take place all over

Wales. In bigger towns and cities look

out for food festivals, concerts and

street parties.

stdavidsday.org

1st 9th MarchCrickhowell Walking Festival

Crickhowell

Guided walks of various grades, all led by

local experienced guides plus a range of

supporting events.

crickhowellfestival.com

2nd March

The Island Race, Anglesey

The Anglesey Half Marathon takes

runners across the world famous Menai

Bridge and follows the coast road to

Beaumaris Castle and back.

theislandrace.com

15th MarchWales v Scotland, Cardiff

The final day of the Six Nations rugby

union championship, and the most

eagerly awaited fixture of the year at

the Millennium Stadium.


Events Diary2014

Opposite page clockwise from top lefThe Porthcawl Elvis Festiva

Llangollen International EisteddfodWales v Italy rugby international, Cardiff

St Davids Hall, CardifRoyal Welsh Show, Builth Wells

British Speedway Grand Prix, CardiffHay Festival, Hay-on-Wye

This page from leftMenai Bridge, Isle of Anglesey

Musician, Cardiff CastleSt Davids Day Parade

Starts on 21st March

Wales One World Film Festival

Cardiff & Aberystwyth

One World explores the edges of

contemporary global cinema and gives

audiences the chance to celebrate world

cinema in all its richness and diversity.

wowfilmfestival.com

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30

Dylan Thomas

This year Wales celebrates the centenary

of the birth of Dylan Thomas, born on

27th October 1914 at 5 Cwmdonkin

Drive, in the Uplands area of Swansea.

He grew up in the city, but paid regular

summer visits to his aunts farm in

Carmarthenshire, whose rural setting

inspired much of his work.

Thomas left school at 16 to become

a reporter for the local newspaper,and became a regular at local pubs

and coffee shops, where he mixed

with a group of writers, musicians

and artists that became known as

The Kardomah Gang.

In 1936 he met a dancer called Caitlin

Macnamara in a London pub, and

drunkenly proposed to her on the spot.

They married in 1937, and a year later

the couple moved to Laugharne, where

they raised three children. He died on

9th November 1953 in New York, after

a prolonged drinking session. His bodywas returned to Wales where he was

buried in the churchyard in Laugharne.

Thomas is remembered as one of the

most innovative poets of the English

language. In addition to poetry, he wrote

short stories and scripts for film and radio

notably the classic play for voices,

Under Milk Wood.

April September

The Dylan Weekends

Three weekends to celebrate Dylan

Thomass life and work, themed to

echo Dylans favourite art forms:

just the kind of events Dylan himself

would have enjoyed:

11th 13th April

Poetry and Biography

curated by Patti Smith and

Simon Armitage

19th 21st September

Comedy and Radio

curated by Robin Ince and

Simon Maconie

26th 28th September

Music and Film

curated by Richard James andEuros Child

thelaugharneweekend.com

dylanthomas100.org

AboveRHS Flower Show, Cardiff

Wonderwool Wales, Builth Wells

11th 13th April

RHS Flower Show, Cardiff

Held in Bute Park against the backdrop

of Cardiff Castle, the show provides an

inspirational display of vibrant gardening,

floral delights and expert advice.

rhs.org.uk

26th 27th AprilWonderwool Wales, Builth Wells

A fun and fibre-packed weekend that

includes displays, workshops and

demonstrations.

wonderwoolwales.co.uk

visitwales.com

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31visitwales.com 31visitwales.com

Events Diary2014

2nd 4th May

Machynlleth Comedy Festival

Machynlleth

An annual live comedy festival brings top

comics to this lovely Mid Wales town.

machcomedyfest.co.uk

2nd 5th May

Bro Tregaron Walking WeekendTregaron Walking Club invites walkers

of all ages and abilities to join them on

guided walks in the unspoilt and stunning

Cambrian Mountains.

walktregaron.co.uk

3rd 5th May

Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza

Llandudno

This seaside resort returns to its Victorian

roots in an event packed full of steam

engines, Victorian musical organs,

vintage cars, costumes, curiosities and

side shows.

victorian-extravaganza.com

16th 18th May

Prestatyn & Clwydian Range Walking

Festival, Prestatyn

Three days of walking and fun at this 9th

annual festival offering 25 themed walks

ranging from easy to energetic.

prestatynwalkingfestival.co.uk

17th 18th May

Welsh Three Peaks Challenge

Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons

A unique opportunity to climb three of

the most iconic mountains in Wales

Pen y Fan, Cadair Idris and Snowdon.

snowdon500.co.uk

17th 18th MaySnowdonia Slateman Triathlon

Llanberis

A triathlon to remember! Held over two

days, the two race options are the Full

Slateman (1000m/51km/11km) or the

Slateman Sprint (400m/20km/6km).

snowdoniaslateman.com

22nd 29th May

Beaumaris Arts Festival, Anglesey

This seaside town is the perfect

setting for a week-long arts festival.

Events include classical music and jazz

performances, talks, theatrical events,

poetry reading and art exhibitions.

beaumarisfestival.com

22nd May 1st June

Hay Festival, Hay-on-Wye

Former US President Bill Clinton called

Hay the Woodstock of the mind,

which just about sums up this incredible

gathering of the worlds greatest writers

and thinkers. There are 900+ events

over the ten days, featuring poets and

scientists, lyricists and comedians,novelists and environmentalists,

politicians and philosophers, actors and

astronauts, historians and economists

all coming together to kick around big

ideas that will transform your way of

thinking. Unmissable.

hayfestival.com

23rd 25th May

Aberystwyth Cycle Festival

With some of Britains top cyclists

making a rare appearance in Mid Wales,

festival visitors can watch all the action

and experience the beautiful and

undiscovered lanes of Ceredigion on

their own bikes.

abercyclefest.com

From leftBeaumaris, Isle of Anglesey

Welsh Three Peaks ChallengeBrecon Beacons

Hay Festival, Hay-on-Wye

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24th May

Heineken Cup Final,

Millennium Stadium, Cardiff

Four Heineken Cup finals have been

played to date at this world-class

stadium. The 2014 finals will see the

creation of a European Champions

Village, providing a focal point for fans

to savour the unique atmosphere ofthis major European rugby tournament.

You can make a proper weekend of it by

showing up for the Amlin Challenge Cup

Final, held the day before at the historic

Cardiff Arms Park.

ercrugby.com

25th 26th May

Abergavenny Steam & Vintage Rally

Bailey Park, Abergavenny

A marvellous day out for the whole

family with steam and vintage vehicles,

a childrens playground, a food village,

rural crafts and handicrafts.

abergavennysteamrally.co.uk

26th 31st May

Urdd Eisteddfod, Bala

One of the largest cultural youth festivals

in Europe, celebrating the best talent in

song, dance, drama and design.

urdd.org/eisteddfod

4th 7th June

Three Castles Welsh Classic Trial

Llandudno

Attracting more than 300 classic

cars from the early 1900s through

to todays supercars. Stalls, childrens

entertainments, refreshments and

live jazz.

three-castles.co.uk

7th June

Big Welsh Trail, Coed Llandegla

A half marathon and 6.3 mile (10 km)

route will take in awe inspiring trails

through the 650 hectares of this

beautiful forest.

bigwelshtrail.com

24th 25th May

Really Wild Food & Countryside

Festival, St David's

A fabulous showcase of locally grown

and produced food, with wild ingredients

foraged from the hedgerows, coast,

beach and river. Loads to see and do,

AND to eat of course!

reallywildfestival.co.uk

25th May

Welsh Open Stoneskimming

Championships, Llanwrtyd Wells

Stoneskimming is the ancient skill of

bouncing stones as far as possible

across water. You can enter the fray or

just enjoy other amusing stone-themed

events.

green-events.co.uk

30th May 1st June

Woodfest, Wales, Kinmel Estate

near St Asaph

This interactive celebration of wood-

related skills and crafts is packed with

exhilarating displays including more than

150 outside stands of demonstrations

and trade, and six marquees full of

unique goods produced in Wales.

woodfestwales.co.uk

June

Ruthin Festival, Ruthin

An outstanding variety of non-stop

music, from traditional folk to classical,

as well as the best from the world of

jazz and popular music.

ruthinfestival.co.uk

13th 29th June

Gregynog Festival, Gregynog

Known as the oldest festival in Wales the

Gregynog festival is one of the UKs top

rated classical musical events. Held in

the beautiful surroundings of the Welsh

borders, this festival has a different

theme every year spanning a range

of music from medieval to chamber,

performed by fantastic artists, onauthentic instruments.

gregynogfestival.org

visitwales.com

From leftHeineken Cup, Millennium Stadium

Foraging in WalesWoodfest, Kinmel Estate, near St Asaph

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Events Diary2014

14th June

Man v Horse Marathon

Llanwrtyd Wells

A unique marathon of 22 miles (35 km)

through spectacular countryside where

runners and horses compete against

each other. A runner has won just twice

in the events 33-year history.

green-events.co.uk

14th 15th June

Snowdonia Arts Festival

Betws-y-Coed

A celebration of the areas artistic

heritage through worksh

Documents

Wales View 2014