This flared 1940’s style knicker is probably what many people are hoping to find when searching for “vintage french knicker patterns” on the internet. The 1930’s style Circular French Knicker tutorial I posted a while back, though pretty, makes a very airy knicker perhaps more suited for boudoir wearing. This 40’s vintage style is definitely more practical. So with that in mind I thought I’d make a little drafting tutorial ....no bias and no fiddly gusset to set in. Hooray!I’ve tried to keep it simple, you don’t need years of experience to draft patterns, just a bit of patience and determination. On the final page I show how you could turn the block into wide legged PJ bottoms and bloomers as well.So get out your tape measure and lets get started drafting vintage style French Knickers .

A flared 1940’s style cut on the straight grain

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

The 5 body measurements you will need are: 1- true waist (usually about 2” above your navel) Tie a piece of thin elastic around to mark it on yourself. This helps accuracy of other measurements taken from the waist. 2- high hip (hip bone level or approx. 4”down from waist)3- full hip (where your bottom is largest... on average about 8-9“ below your waist but if it is significantly higher or lower make a note of it)4- front waist through legs to back waist against your body (i.e. ‘girth’. A measurement needed to compare to the final pattern crutch depth)5- side-waist to seat (take this one sitting down on a hard chair from the side point of your true waist following the curve of your hip down to the chair seat)

You will also need: A few large sheets of paper, at least A1 size Tape measure PencilScotch tapeStraight ruler and (ideally) a curved oneA calculator (makes the math easier) Scissors

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

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Basic Block1- Draw a rectangle- Width: 1/2 of your full hip measurement +2” Height: 16“-18” high2- Divide it in half vertically. This is the side seam. Label ‘front’ and ‘back’ as in my diagram Step 1 .3- Further divide each half vertically into thirds. On the 1/3rd line closest to your labeled front and back mark a point 1/2’ on either side of the line at the top edge.4- Next draw one horizontal line 4” below the waist line and another 8”* below your waistline (*if your full-hip is higher or lower than 8” draw this line at whatever that measurement is)5- Draw another horizontal line using your side waist to chair seat measurement plus 2”.

Extend this line 4” out to the front and 5” out to the back. This is the crutch line.Draw one final horizontal line 4” below the crutch line... this is only a temporary hem length. You can change it when fitting your muslin/toile.

Side Seams and Darts1- Draw the legs of the front and back darts by connecting the two 1/2“pairs of points along the waistline that you marked earlier down to the high hip line on the 1/3rd line as shown on the Step 1 diagram.2- The side waist points A & B are marked as follows: Work out 1/4 of your full waist measurement. The front waist is this measurement plus 3/8” and the back waist is that measurement minus 3/8”. Using those measurements mark points A & B along the front and back waist line. Be sure not to include the 1” darts when you are measuring, ie. measure up to one side of the dart and skip the 1“ dart space and continue measuring from the other side of the dart otherwise your final waist will be a total of 4” too small when the knicker pattern is finished.3- From the 8” full hip line connect the side seam point with a smooth curve up to A and then again up to B.

Crutch Seams1- Draw in the front and back crutch seam lines. The front starts just above the full-hip line .The back starts at high-hip level. Curve them out to meet the extension lines. The back line should have a bit more more of a slope than the front as shown.

For both front and back the last 1” on should actually be right on the extension line.

This is the very basic block. Cut apart the front and the back and lets move on to Step 2.

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

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STEP 2*- Take the back half of your block and cut along the full-hip line from the centre back to the side seam. Leave a tiny hinge in the paper at the side seam and swing the top half of the pattern up there by making a 1” spread at the CB line.

- Re-draw a smooth CB line and add a pair of notches to mark it for sewing later.

*You can either re-draw this on new piece of paper or simply tape in some paper behind the spread area and along the centre back to give you enough room to redraw the line. You’ll be redrawing it all in the next step anyway.

STEP 3 & 4- On both front and back blocks cut from the hem up to the point of the darts. Also cut out the ‘V’ dart spaces and swing them closed so the legs meet and the ‘skirt’ of the knickers are spread. I often leave 1/4” on the back dart open as this gives a little wearing ease (1/2’ total) to my finished waist measurement. You can do the same on the front dart if you wish. Re-draw the waistline curve as shown.

- Swing both side seams out 1/2” at the hem and connect with a straight line to the full hip line level. Re-draw the hem curves as shown by the smooth line.

Compare the pattern measurements against the body measurements you took. Aim for 1/2 - 3/4”waist ease, minimum 2” high-hip ease, minimum 4” at full-hip and 3”- 4” total more through the crutch than your actual girth measurement. Make any corrections before going to the final stage

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

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Step 2

STEP 6- Lastly draw the waistband: your waist measurement plus 1/2”ease long by 1 & 5/8” wide and a side opening placket piece, also 1 & 5/8” wide by twice the length of your side opening.- Draw seam allowances on all edges. I usually do 3/8” everywhere but draw what you are comfortable with for sewing.

Don’t forget to add an amount at the back end of your waistband to allow for the placket. (3/8” unless you opt to make your placket finish wider)

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To make wide leg pyjama bottoms or short bloomers:

After the hip line is raised 1” in Step 2 but before the darts are closed in Step 3 the front and back blocks can be re-joined at the side seams, with the waist filled in at the side seam and the leg length extended straight down from the full-hip line to the desired leg length so you have a pattern that looks like Step 6. This makes nice wide-legged, elasticated -waist pyjama trousers. For bloomers cut a leg line similar to the one in the diagram. I have illustrated the inseam about 4” long but the length really depends on how you intend to finish the bloomer hem- i.e. leave longer if you want to enough turn-up for an elastic channel or make shorter for elastic sewn on top. For a bloomers waist finish I did a simple narrow elastic zig-zagged on top of the waist.For pyjama bottoms I finished with a 1 & 1/2“ separate waistband with elastic inside and a 7” left-side button placket to go with my 1930’s style pyjama top but this is just a suggestion.

You could also do a grown-on waistband channel. For a smooth fitting waist add darts as they were done in step 1 of the draft. A variety of possibilities.

Remember to check the pattern measurements at high-hip and full-hip make sure you have enough wearing ease. Ideally you should have a minimum of at 2” total at the high-hip and a good 6” minimum at the full hip. (On the 1/2 pattern: 1“ high-hip and 3” full-hip) For full crutch depth ease of at least 3” larger than your body measurement through the girth is desirable, again for soft fabrics even 4-5” isn’t too much in my opinion, but its a personal preference. For pull-on pjs or bloomers double check the pattern waist is at least 2” larger than your full hip measurement to make sure you will be able to get in and out of them without easily ! If you want more width through the waist and hips cut and spread the pattern apart evenly down the side seam line. In terms of fabric lay-out having a side seam is probably more economical but I think bloomers and pyjama bottoms are nicest cut without one especially in soft and silky fabrics.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial and see how much can be done with such a simple block and you are inspired to draft more of your own patterns. -Jeanne you can reach me at sewveravenus@gmail.com for any questions on this tutorial.

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Draft

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To Start.Where I Advise You To Make A Toile (i.e. a practice pair of knickers):

After completing the drafting of your French Knickers pattern and before making them up in a special or expensive fabric please do make a toile pair in very thin muslin or a cheap fabric to check that you are satisfied with the fit and to make any pattern alterations needed. It doesn't take much time to do and will save you possible grief. A good proportion of my working time is spent toiling new patterns. Even with all my years of experience I do occasionally mess up and better to catch problems at the toile stage than later.

You don't need to do the french seams, complete placket or full waistband in the toile.Simply stitch and press open the side seams (yes, press your toile! Trying something on with lumpy seams and wrinkles will not give you a very accurate reading of your pattern.)

Stay-stitch the placket opening along the sewing-line to the pattern measurement and do the same for the waist line. You can top-stitch a length of ribbon onto the waist if you like.Try the knicker toile on pinning the placket completely closed along the stay-stitched stitching line and at the waist.

Things To Check:- waistline is a comfortable size. Add or subtract a little at both front and back side seams to correct. Remember to add/subtract any alteration in waist size to the waistband pattern.- there is no pulling at the placket area. If there is it means you need to add more width to the sides at the high-hip level. This is very dependent on your body shape and how soon below your waistline the flare of your high-hip starts and what the shape of your abdomen is.- Crutch is neither too too low or too high. Test sitting down too. You can correct either problem by doing a horizontal slash and increase/decrease mid hip on your pattern pieces.- do you like the amount of leg flare? If you want more add to the front and back side seams evenly. - are the knickers hanging level on you? If they are pulling up at the back crutch you may need to raise the back waistline more than the 1inch specified in the drafting. If the back waist is sitting higher than your natural waist gently scoop out that amount on the back pattern. If the knickers pull down at the front waist you may need to slightly raise the waistline especially if your abdomen is prominent.- Do you like the length? Change the pattern hem to suit.

Once you have toiled, fitted and made any pattern alterations needed you are good to sew!

1 -Sew Left Side Seam:sew the left side seam closed up to the placket notch with a french seam. it will be easier to attach the placket before the knickers are all closed up. Sew both lines of french seam exactly up to the placket notch. When both lines have been sewn and the french seam pressed towards the back clip through the seam allowances right where that notch is to free the remaining seam allowances from the french seam for attaching your placket in the next step.

2- Attach Continuos Placket To Left Side Opening:You can do it either of two ways depending on if you wish to do it A.- all by machine or B. -hand-sewing on the inside.A- all by machine:Pin the right side of the placket strip to the wrong side or the knicker opening like this: find the centre point along the long edge of the placket strip and while spreading the opening wide put a pin through the seam line through to to the base of the placket. You will be pinning virtually into the last stitch of the french seam.

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Fitting & Sewing

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Then pin the knicker seam allowances to the placket seam allowance at the top edge. Smooth the knicker side seams evenly onto the placket, don't stretch it and trim any fabric off at the waist edge...ease it all in. Machine the placket in place leaving the top of the french seam free.Next trim your seam allowances if its needed -depends on your fabric and press them towards the placket. Press the other side seam allowance under and fold the placket in half the long way over to the outside of the knicker opening. Pin the edge you just pressed so it covers that first line of stitching and topstitch in place a hair in from the folded edge. When its done you don't want to see any of that first line of stitching, your placket should be covering it all.

B- hand-sewing : as by machine but in reverse, i.e. sew the right side of the placket to the right side of the knickers machine in place. Press, fold to the inside and with a tiny slip stitch hand sew the second placket seam allowance in place covering that first line of machine stitching.Press the placket fold in place and turn the front placket back under the knicker front and leave the back side of the placket extended as the underlap. Plackets do get easier with practice.Run a short baste stitch across the front to hold the top of the placket in place. Lay this section of knicker on your ironing board as the placket will be when closed, press the placket turn back gently along the front side seam and also press across the bottom fold of the placket flat. Press the french seam below the placket towards the front and hand sew to bottom fold of the placket.

3- Sew All Other Seams:Sew the right side seam with a french seam. Press flat towards the front.French seam the two short in-seams of each leg. Press flat towards back.French seam the centre front/centre back seams together matching your notches and the in-seams. Press the finished seam flat either to the right or left, don't think it matters. Don't try to press it flat through the crutch area though, just leave it standing up or you will get creases to either side of the curved areas on the legs.

6- Attach Waistband:machine stay-stitch along the entire knicker waist seam allowance and check the measurement for any stretching.

I hope you remembered in the drafting to allow for the placket extension on the back of the opening?If not now it the time to cut another waistband strip allowing for it.When making little things like french knickers to be honest I rarely cut a 100% measured waistband piece- more often I simply tear a strip the width I want and the general finished length plus a couple of inches.

You may be wondering why I haven't said to bag-out the ends of the waistband before sewing it on?Two reasons.Firstly in thin, un-fused fabrics bagging out the ends doesn't generally look very nicely done.

And secondly it would mean I actually had to measure an accurate waistband length and as I said earlier I don't often do that for knicker waistbands.

Anyway I didn't find the knickers waist needed much easing in after the stay-stitching when I made mine. Once I double checked that the waist measurement was correct I simply pinned my waistband on at either end and smoothed and pinned all the waistline fabric in place between without worrying about centre front/back notches etc. Of course you can notch the waistband pattern all up and do it like that in the name of accuracy but in the drafting tutorial I was trying to avoid all that measuring and to just keep it simple. (But maybe I shouldn't be suggesting my dodgy sewing practices to people...? )

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So, whether you want an all-machined finish or intend to do the inside by hand sew the waistband strip onto the knicker waist. (see 2 A&B about placket sewing) After sewing the first line of stitching press the seam allowances into the waistband. Press the seam allowance on the opposite edge under. Trim off any excess waistband at both ends but leave at least 1/4-3/8" for turning under. Carefully fold the ends in, anchor with a pin and turn the waistband over.-If doing a hand finish inside slip stitch the ends and along the waistline.

-If doing a machine finish your waistband will be folded to the outside of the knickers. Pin in place and machine as close to the edge as you can. Sew over the ends and, holding the waistband taut, along the top edge too.

7- Hem Finishing:Try on your knickers and decide if you'd like them shorter than the 4" drafted length. Cut off accordingly and hem how ever you like… rolled hem, with lace etc.

If you 'd like your knickers as mini-bloomers turn enough hem up to make a casing wide enough to allow threading of baby elastic through.

8- Placket Closure:Many vintage knickers have tiny button holes on both the waistband and the front of placket. It looks really lovely! However I find my domestic machine will not do buttonholes nicely on such narrow areas and so making hand made button holes is necessary.Well, I don't usually go for the all hand-buttonhole option myself... I occasionally do one at the waistband and instead of button holes put small snap fasteners down the placket. 3 or 4 usually does it.If even one hand buttonhole is more than you care to do then a hook and bar will secure the waist nicely... or you could make a buttonhole stitched thread loop and sew on a small flat button.

So, I hope these brief instructions have helped you make a pair of french knickers you like.

If you would like a very in-depth-with-pictures sewing tutorial which includes how to make tiny pin hems, appliquéing lace by hand or machine and more have a look at the pdf I made of the French Knicker Sew-Along on my VeraVenus website.

Jeanne @ sewveravenus@gmail.com

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DIY 1940‘s Style French Knicker Fitting & Sewing

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