Volvo 740 AC_r12 r134a Retrofit

VOLVO AC R134 refit kit instructions for the 700 series

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Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars

CFC-Free A/C Retrofit Kit for Pre-1993 Volvos

Introduction; Kit Contents: Page 1

Written by Dave Urban. Caution: This information is giving for purely information only. No Warrantee is either given or implied. Only people who have the correct equipment should

perform this task.

Years ahead of legislation, Volvo first introduced CFC-free air conditioning on all of its U.S. and Canadian 1993 model cars.

With the public's increasing concern about the environment, Volvo released a retrofit kit for older model Volvos in the spring of 1993. The kit allowed Volvos with existing R12 freon based air conditioning systems to be converted to use a CFC-free refrigerant. Volvo was the first automobile manufacturer in the world to offer such a conversion kit for older model cars.

When I purchased my kit from my local dealer, I was shocked to find that it did not include any type of instructions. They were kind enough to fax it to me. This is a web version of the instructions that I received. I have added some of my own comments in italics. This is not a job for the weekend mechanic . It does require special tools. Some of those tools can be used at the shop then the work done at the house.

[Editor] When the instructions mention "torque joint to 12 Nm" this means to tighten until snug. Don't overtighten: the seal is made by the o-ring, not the threads. Lubricate the o-ring before installation with compressor oil; use a backup wrench on all fittings; and test with soap solution (which will bubble in the presence of a leak) after

Supplementary Kit 1, mainly for cars not equipped

with,factory-fitted valve, with pipes or where pipe has been removed as a service fix

Supplementary Kit 2

Shaft seal kit for cars equipped with Sandan Compressor

Page 1 of 18ACconvert

6/27/2007http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~ridgely/retrokit/ac_convert.htm

Contents of basic and supplementary kits from R12 to R134a

Note that both the basic and supplementary kits can have different part numbers. Some of the basic kits

The basic kit comes with

New receiver/Dryer R134a filler valve Ester Oil O-rings R12 Filler permanent Caps Circlip Kit costs: 9145660-8 - $57.00 Supplement #1 - $30.00

Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars

Replaces 9145664-

0

740/940 9145660-8

9145661-6

9134032-3

9134344-2 (SD-

510/508)

9134345-9 (SD-709)

B23F - * - - - -

B230F -92 * - * - -

D24T -87 * - * * -

B234F - * - * - -

B230FT 940SE USA Turbo 1991

- * - - -



may have different supplementary kits.

Use these pages a guidelines for the conversion of the A/C system

Basic Kit 9145660-8

The illustration shows a car with the pipe runs and the factory filling valve installed.

My car did not have this and need Sup kit#1.

The basic kit has the new quick release valve that the R134a uses.

This illustration shows a car not equipped with the factory filling valve. This can also occur if the A/C was installed as an accessory.

In this case a Supplementary kit, PN 9134032-3 is also required which replaces the pipe shown in the upper part of the illustration.

Exception 1: Requires in addition Supplementary kit (2) PN 9134344-2 for following models



Conversion of A/C system form R12 to R134a Retrofit: Page 3

The method described below is for installing Basic kit PN 9145660-8. This is, in principle, the basic method for installing Basic PN 9145661-1 or supplementary kits according to the first two pages.

Empty refrigerant from System

This MUST be done by a licensed AC technician. The free release of freon R12 is a federal offense. Most places should do this for a small fee. This also helps remove the oil and the freon trapped in the oil

that could cause problems later on because of the incompatibility between the two type of freon.

740/760 -1987 Engine D24T

Exception 2:Requires in addition Supplementary kit(2) 9134345-9 for following models:

780 1988- Engine B280F

A1

Remove:

Battery negative

cable Receiver

A2

Use rust inhibitor PN 1161422-9 on

all screw joints which are to be

detached Allow the



inhibitor several minutes to work before undoing screwed joints.

NEVER USE EXCESSIVE

FORCE

Note: Under no circumstances use heat when

removing

I didn't do this step and all went fine. I would say

this is precautionary but

not fully necessary

A3

Detach:

ETF/KRU

valve bracket. Remove

circlip and valve

(where installed)

pipe connections

at the receiver inlet and

outlet. Be sure to use

two wrenches

when undoing

connections so not to

twist lightweight




metal. the

pressostat connector. Remove

pressostat: this will be

reused. This is the

low pressure cutoff

switch. If defective you can

purchase one at the local parts store for

about $12. Existing O rings (note

sizes) Replace with new rings from kit on new equipment.

A4

Remove screws holding the

receiver clamp

A5

Lift out Receiver

Remark:On older cars or cars where the A/C system was installed as an accessory, there is no EFT/KRU valve

In this case remove the



pipe (see arrow) at the firewall. Then use Supplementary kit (1) PN 9134032-3 for installation.

Be sure to backup with a wrench both sides of the joint as no to twist the light metal.

A6

Plug all open pipe ends to prevent moisture from entering the system.

A7

Wipe clean around all connections that have been opened.

A8

Expansion pipe (orifice) location:

On model years 1991 and earlier (780 -1990) the orifice is located in the receiver inlet at the firewall (see arrow).

Note: Make a point of noting how the orifice is sited in the pipe. Refer to this and the next illustration. Arrow B

A9

On model year 1992 and later (780 1991-) the orifice is sited in the High-Pressure pipe at the pipe joint on the side member, Arrow A




Note: In some cases the work will be made easier if the pipe for the evaporator inlet is removed at the firewall (the right side pipe as shown at Arrow B).The O ring must then be replaced PN 3537503-9

A10

Remove expansion pipe (orifice)

Clean the joint thoroughly

Remove the union nut

Pull or wiggle the expansion pipe out ( it is not threaded). Take care not to break off the expansion pipe. Make sure the whole unit is removed.

A11

Inspect expansion pipes (opening's) filter section

If the filter is choked or there are a lot of metal particles in it (refer to illustration) then the compressor may be in poor condition and need replacing with a new unit.

A rule of thumb: If more than 3 of the 5 filter sections are clogged (Fig. B) then the compressor oil




should be examined. If the compressor oil is black and heavily contaminated, or if the compressor is dry, then replace the compressor with a new unit. Fig A shows an orifice that is normal.

After inspection the old orifice should be scrapped. The conversion kit contains a new one.

A12

If the compressor must be replaced:

The new compressor unit as a replacement part is filled with mineral oil. Empty the oil and replace with ester oil (200 ml 6.76 fl oz) form the conversion kit

Warning! Do not fill Receiver with oil if replacing the compressor. Only fill the compressor using the filler plug not through the inlet or outlet connections.

Note! The O rings on the compressor inlet and outlet must always be replaced with new ones These Rings are not included in the kits and must be orded separatlly

For compressor replacement refer to the Service Manual Section 8 (82-88) Body Fittings, Interior, Climate Units 740, 760 1982-19...



A13

Install expansion pip (orifice).

Install a new yellow lubricated O ring on the new expansion pipe. Compare size on the new O ring with the old one so they are the correct dimension.

Install a lubricated O ring in the pipe joint at the firewall (or side member).

Install expansion pipe (orifice).

Tighten the joint to the evaporator (or the side member) to 12 Nm (9 ft. lbs).

A14

Top up the oil level in the new receiver

Fill the receiver through the inlet side with ester oil supplied in the conversion kit (200ml).

Note: If the compressor has been replaced and filled with ester oil in previous steps, no additional ester oil is needed in the receiver.

A15

Remarks: On older cars without pipes for ETF/KRU valve;

Install pipes from Supplementary kit (1) PN 9134032-3 Finger tighten




against the receiver. Use lubricated O rings. Connect filling pipe (U pipe) using a new lubricated O-ring

A15

Install the following:

Receiver in the Car new lubricated O-rings at the joint between the evaporator and at the receiver outlet. pipe to evaporator and at the outlet. Tighten by hand

A16

Tightening an torques:

the pipe between the evaporator and receiver. 27 Nm (20ft lbs) at the evaproator and 45 Nm (33 ft lbs) at the Receiver the pipe at the receiver outlet with 45 Nm(33 ft lbs) fillter pipe (Upipe) with 16 Nm(12 ft lbs) screws on the



Conversion of A/C system from R12 to R134a Retrofit: Page 8

receiver clamp

A17

Use a new O-ring for the old pressostat,(lubricate with ester oil) and install it on the receiver

Compar size of the new O-ring with the old one to ensure correst dimension. Tighten the pressostat with 3.5 Nm(31 in. lb)

A18

Connect the connector to the pressostat

A19

Install the new SAE Filler valve for R134a

Alternative 1: Use a new yellow lubricated O-ring and install on the filler pipe (U pipe). Insatll SAE filler valve. Tighten with 15 NM (12 ft. lbs)

Alternative 2: Use a new yellow lubricated O-ring. Install on the filler pipe (U pipe). Insatll SAE filler valve and circlip (included in basic kit). Tighten with 15 NM (12 ft. lbs)

Inspect A/C System

A20

Vacuum pump the A/C system



Connect R134a recycling/filling unit. Start vacuum pumping and continue for at least 50

min.

Check that system keeps a vacuum. The vacuum must not sink during a 4 min period. (This is with the vacuum turned off) The recycling/filling unit is not required for this step. I used a standard AC vacuum from a R12 system. and connected it to the other R12 charging port opposite the pressostat (See arrow in the bottom picture) and ran the vacuum for the 50 min.

Finalizing work

A21

While evacuating, the following work can be carried out:

Complete the light blue rectangular R134a RETROFIT label before the protecteive paper and carbon is removed

Using ball-point pen, note:

technician intials dealer number, if applicable ( or repar shop name, city, state) Date

Carefully clean off the old r12 decal on the body work, remove the carbon paper and stick the new, light-blue R134a RETROFIT lable over it. Make sure the old label is



Conversion of A/C system from R12 to R134a Retrofit: Page 9

completely covered.

Using mineral spirits, clean top of accumulator, then stick the round R134a RETROFIT decal on the receiver.

A22

Install the caps (included in kit) in the service valves which are no longer used.

Two on the compressor (in sertain cases there are none on th ecompressor) and one on the receiver (see illustration below)

Use locking fluid PN 1161351-0 or equivalent on the caps.

A23

Refilling system with refrigerant

On completion of vacuum pumping, fill system with max. 200 grams (0.44 lbs) refrigerant R134a

Leakage testing after filling. Use leakage detector.

Repair any leaks.

When no leakage is detected fill with remainder of refrigerant R134a to the



amount stated below. (the link refers to a table of refrigerant capacities)

I applied the small amount of freon from a filler hose that I purchased at a local parts store where I purchased the freon cans. One end screws onto the can and the other snaps onto the filler cap installed previously. Hold the can upright so gas, not liquid, is sucked into the system. I then opened the valve and let the vacuum suck the initial freon into the system and then the can provided enough pressure to trigger the pressostat switch to turn on the compressor. I started the car and turned the A/C system on to max cool and raised the idle and made the compressor suck the freon out of the can. I have a 88 740 which requires 2.4 lb or 38 oz. The cans are 12 oz. I put in 36 oz and saved the other can for a spare. Once freon is added check for proper cooling, and your done. The remainder is if you could pump the correct amount in the system.

740 -1990

2.4 lb

760 -1987

2.4 lb

780 -1991

2.4 lb

740/940 91-92

2.1 lb

940SE/760/960 88-92

2.0 lb



This is my 1988 745 Volvo which has had the AC RETROFIT

Here are some pictures of the retrofitted parts. Looks about the same.

Verify Functions

A24

Start:

Engine A/C System

Check that:

Compressor starts and operates normally without unusual noise In car air is cooled.

Stop engine

Check for leakage with leakage detector Repair and leaks indicated.



Here is the filler cap and the filler cap opened. Notice that the filler is a quick release connection. You can also see the U joint from supplementary kit (1)

Here is a picture of the notice stickers you put on the car.





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Volvo 740 AC_r12 r134a Retrofit