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7/27/2019 Vogue Patterns 10-11-2013
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013
VOGUEPATTERNS.COM
THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE
HOW TO MAKE YOUR ULTIMATE ARTISANAL JEANS
SOURCING MATERIALS | CONSTRUCTION DETAILS | CUSTOM FITTING
PLUS OVER 40 NEW FALL LOOKS
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2 VOGUE PATTERNS
Contents Vogue Patterns Magazine October/November 2013
ON THE COVER
V8884 in pinstripes, with
solid panels on the back
and under the collar, from
page 71. This page: Jeans
V8774 from page 48 and
shirt M6649 in striped
cotton. Shoes: French
Sole. Hair and makeup by
Joseph Boggess.
FEATURES
42Meet the MakersFrom sourcing durable
denim to stitching details,
today’s bespoke-jeans
designers offer advice for
building the perfect pair.
byJean Hartig
48Create YourUltimate JeansWe examined some of the
best jeans on the market
to identify the details that
make them special. Here’show to incorporate these
artisanal touches in your
own sewing.
by Gillian Conahan
54A Passion forFashionSince the 1960s, Bellville
Sassoon has dressed
the world’s most stylishwomen. David Sassoon
reflects on fifty years of
high fashion.
by Marilyn Stevens
68Borrowed From theBoysMasculine pieces show
versatility and style in
these exclusive looks
from the Vogue Patterns,
Butterick, and McCall’s
Patterns collections.
85Pattern GalleryNew looks from the
Vogue Patterns Fall
Collection.
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COUTURE CORNER
Te Secret to opstitching Whether Ostentatious or Unobtrusive, Flawless Topst itching
Is Within Reach With These Tips for Banishing Skipped Stitches,Keeping Seams on Track, and More
BY CLAIRE SHAEFFER
Opposite page, clockwise
from top left: The sig-
nature red zigzag stitch
of Stephen Burrows; a
Yves Saint Laurent haute
couture jacket; Geoffrey
Beene's decorative gold
topstitching from the
eighties; and a creme
Chanel jacket.
Topstitching is any stitching, decorative or func-
tional, matching or contrasting, that shows on
the outside of the garment. Frequently it is an
inconspicuous construction element at edges,
zipper plackets, hems, patch pockets, or tucks,
but it can also highlight the seams and edges
of tailored designs and sportswear and add
durability and body to other areas of a garment.
Sometimes it’s a row of straight or zigzag stitch-
ing with a single strand of standard machine-
stitching thread, silk buttonhole twist, or otherdecorative thread; sometimes it’s multiple rows
of threads in simple or complex designs. Even a
machine-stitched buttonhole could be consid-
ered topstitching.
Over the past thirty years, I’ve examined
topstitching in many designs, in all price ranges,
and am regularly reassured that the topstitching
from even the crème de la crème of the fashion
industry isn’t always perfect. One design that
comes to mind is a Chanel suit with a cardi-
gan jacket that I once saw in the Victoria &
Albert Museum in London, a simple tweed suit
trimmed with multiple rows of decorative top-stitching. Although it’s an attractive design, the
topstitching rows are not parallel to each other
along the curved edges.
Generally, decorative topstitching is used
more frequently on ready-to-wear than on haute
couture, but a few designers used it generously
for both collections throughout their careers.
The most noteworthy are Yves Saint Laurent,
who was greatly influenced by menswear, and
Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges who created
“space age” collections in which the topstitching
added a harder, sportier look. Designers such as
Dior, Balenciaga, and Balmain, who specialized
in soft tai lored suits, rarely used topstitching.
There may be several reasons why topstitch-
ing is used less often in couture garments. The
construction of a couture jacket, for example,
focuses on manipulating the fabric in your
hands from the beginning, so the finished col-
lar and lapels are shaped into their final posi-
tions during construction. In contrast, thetopstitching on a ready-to-wear jacket is applied
at the edges after the garment is assembled,
and it holds the layers in the finished posi-
tion. Remember when comparing couture and
ready-to-wear that each couture garment is
made for a single client—just as in home sew-
ing—on a machine similar to the machines you
use. Ready-to-wear is mass produced on special
machines with multiple needles, special feet,
and guides to create perfectly straight and paral-
lel stitches.
GET READY
If you haven’t had your sewing machine main-
tained recently, now is a good time to take it to
the dealer for a checkup. Tell your dealer what
you’re planning to sew and topstitch, and ask for
suggestions about threads, needles, machine feet,
and stabilizers. You’re likely to find a wider selec-
tion of products to improve stitch quality and
consistency than are available at the chain stores.
A new needle of good quality and an appropri-
ate type is a must to prevent skipped stitches,
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Just what makes the ultimate pair of jeans?
In a market swamped with denim in every
imaginable color and wash, many of them
pre-destructed or elaborately embellished, a
growing faction of enthusiasts is returning to
denim’s roots in a quest for quality, authenticity,
and timeless style. These people choose classic
details inspired by the Levi ’s of yore, and favor
heavy, raw selvage denims that have no artificial
washes or distressing so the fade patterns devel-
op naturally over time, creating a look reflective
of the wearer’s lifestyle.
To learn more about what goes into artisanal jeans we visited Kiya Babzani, co-owner of Self
Edge—a shop specializing in Japanese reproduc-
tions of vintage denim. According to Babzani, the
Japanese interest in heritage denim was driven
by a fascination with vintage Americana that
began in the 1980s. The original goal was not to
create fashionable jeans but to create reproduc-
tions authentic in every detail, from thread and
fabric to hardware, construction, and finishing.
More recently, some companies have reinterpret-
ed the classic styles to incorporate features such
as lined back pockets, which make wear-prone
areas more robust. “The Japanese take the vin-tage style and make improvements, but they try
to make it all invisible,” Babzani says.
These styles have made their way back to
the United States over the years following their
boom in Japan—a dissemination driven in part
by the efforts of Babzani and Self Edge—and in
recent years have found a market among denim
lovers of all stripes. Premium brands in the
United States and elsewhere have also adopted
this restrained, detail-oriented approach to pro-
duce vintage-style jeans with a modern twist.
The cost of these jeans often exceeds $300, and
bespoke denim surpasses that by far. But for
hard-core denim lovers who wear their jeans
daily, lovingly repairing the inevitable holes
and rips, and share photos and tips in a host
of online forums, blogs, and lifestyle sites, the
beauty, durability, and authenticity are worth
the price.
It’s a mind-set that any lover of fine sewing
can appreciate, and much of it translates beauti-
fully to sewing at home.
RAW MATERIALS
Trendy denim producers, including a number
of Japanese mills as well as Cone Denim in
Greensboro, North Carolina, weave the cloth on
old-style narrow shuttle looms, using a single
thread that passes back and forth to produce
the neat selvage edge that has become a hall-
mark of quality jeans. Although thick, heavy
jeans aren’t ever yone’s cup of tea, we found our
denim to be surprisingly soft and malleable for
its weight, and it proved manageable to sew on
a domestic machine.
Original jeans threads were 100 percent cot-ton, a relatively weak fiber that frays and breaks
over time. Most modern producers use polyester
threads, either all poly or a cotton-wrapped
poly core, so the stitching remains pristine even
when the jeans themselves start to disintegrate.
Premium producers such as Flat Head and Strike
Gold have returned to using all-cotton thread in
pursuit of a jean that will distress authentically.
Although we tested a var iety of cotton
threads for topstitching—using a freestanding
SUPPLIESVogue Patterns 8774
or your favorite jeans
pattern
Selvage denim
Mattress ticking or
other sturdy cotton for
pocket linings
High quality jeans
zipper (we used a
Super Lampo T5)
Silk or cotton top-
stitching threadJeans button and
rivets
Leather scraps for
logo patch and rivet
spacers
Jeans needle of size
appropriate to your
fabric (we used size
110/18)
Create Your Ultimate Jeans We Examined Some of the Best Jeans on the Market to Identify theDetails That Make Them Special. Here’s How to Sew Them Yourself.
BY GILLIAN CONAHAN
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C O U R T E S Y
O F D A V I D
S A S S O O N
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BY MARILYN STEVENS
Since the 1960s the Couture House of Bellville Sassoon Has DressedMany of the World’s Most Stylish Women. Now in His Early Eighties,
David Sassoon Reflects on Fifty Years of High Fashion.
A Passion for Fashion
David Sassoon working
with Belinda Bellville at
Cadogan Lane in 1967.
Slim, well-groomed, and fashionably
dressed in a blue sweater and skinny
jeans, David Sassoon greets me warmly as
I arrive at his Kensington apartment, which is
situated in an imposing Victorian mansion that
overlooks one of London’s leafy garden squares.
He disappears into the kitchen to make tea, giv-ing me the chance to admire his elegant drawing
room. It has a tranquil, Zen-like feel—formal
sofas piled with pillows in rich jeweled colors,
flanked by low, dark wooden tables stacked with
art and fashion books.
Now in his early eighties (though he doesn’t
look it), Sassoon has retired from Bellville
Sassoon, a couture house synonymous with high
fashion for over fifty years. Retired is a bit of a
misnomer, however: For the last twelve months
he’s been planning for the forthcoming exhibi-
tion The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon, scheduled to
take place this autumn at the Fashion and TextileMuseum in London. Unlike his good friend the
designer Zandra Rhodes—who has squirreled
away dresses and textiles throughout her equally
long fashion career and also exhibited at the
Fashion and Textile Museum this past summer—
Sassoon has kept very little. His press scrapbooks
and archives have since been donated to fashion
museums in London and Bath. So lately he’s been
busy writing letters, making calls, and meeting
with former clients and the representatives at the
various museums where Bellville Sassoon gar-
ments are on display in order to assemble the col-
lection of sixty garments that will tell the house’s
story of couture and glamour, from the late fifties
to the present day.
Belinda Bellvil le offered Sassoon a job in1958, after seeing his final-year student
collection at the Royal College of Art
graduation show. With no interest in tailoring or
in “litt le day dresses,” he says—just glamour—
all his garments were evening dresses. Bellville
went to the show looking for someone to assist
her in her growing business, and that meet-
ing, he says, was when his life in fashion really
began—at a time when London was setting the
pace for a new mood of fashion.
During that same year, Sassoon made his first
visit to Buckingham Palace to oversee the fit-
ting of a bridesmaid’s dress for Princess Anne,the first of a list of royal clients that went on to
include Princess Margaret, Princess Alexandra,
Princess Michael of Kent (who will open the
exhibit at the Fashion and Textile Museum), the
Duchess of Cornwall, and the Duchess of York.
Sassoon dressed Diana, Princess of Wales, on
many occasions, creating the glamorous black,
strapless gown she wore for a benefit recital; the
blue sailor suit for the official engagement por-
traits with the Queen and Prince Charles; and,
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