Vivitar Series 1 Tokina Version 70-210 f3.5 Repair Disassembly Notes

8/13/2019 Vivitar Series 1 Tokina Version 70-210 f3.5 Repair Disassembly Notes

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Vivitar Series 1 f3.5 70-210mm(Tokina version Serial #37******)

Cleaning Oily Diaphragm Blades

and Lens Re-lubricationBy Prentice Fish, November 2010

version 1.1

Disclaimers: Here I am merely describing what I did on two manual focus, Tokina made,

Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 lenses in Canon FD mount. I do this as a personal hobby and I

lack lens repair skills/experience. What follows reflects that perspective this is not written

for, or by, an experienced lens technician. Dont hold me responsible if you try this

procedure and something goes very wrong. That may happen. Dont call me and I dont

want any lens repair work. You assume all risks for whatever you do, and carefully consider

consulting others who are qualified and experienced. Also keep in mind that Kino Precision

(Kiron was their brand name) probably made changes over time when producing this lens,

so my lenses may be different from yours.

No parts/service manual (with parts lists, diagrams, and procedures, etc) could be found for

this particular lens; perhaps one will be generally available in the future.

If you get into trouble, or dont want to bother with trying to fix the lens yourself, consider

sending the lens to an experienced lens repair person such as Ralph Innes, a member of the

Kiron Klub, whose website address is:

http://members.shaw.ca/f35mru20458/index.html

I dont know Mr. Innes, have not met him nor communicated with him, and of course have

no financial connection to him. But several Kiron Klub members have mentioned his skills,

and Id talk to and consider him if I were looking for someone to work on a lens of mine. As

always, evaluate your options and pick what you think is the best option for you at the time.

The Problem Is the lens aperture stuck wide open? Oily lens diaphragm blades are not

unusual for old lenses, since the grease used on these lenses breaks down over the years, and

gets on the aperture blades, resulting in an aperture stuck wide open. Such was the case with

my two Tokina version Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 lenses, in Canon FD mount, that I obtained

in 2010. Here is one way to test (there are other test methods you may prefer) whether or not

your lens has this problem: With the lens in a camera, open the camera back, put the shutter on

B shutter setting, and set the f-stop wide open. Cock the shutter, look through the open cameraback and the lens, press and hold down the shutter, and observe the size of lens opening in the

wide open lens. Now release the shutter, and change the f-stop to (say) f16. Cock the shutter

again, press and hold the shutter down, and look through the camera back and lens again, just

like before. If everything is okay, you should see a much smaller opening in the lens. But if

the diaphragm remains wide open the same size as at the f3.5 setting you tried first the

aperture is not stopping down as it should, and oily shutter blades may be the problem. You

may also see the opening slowly get smaller as you hold the shutter down. If this happens, the

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aperture is not stopping down quickly as it should, and oily shutter blades may be the

problem.

The diaphragm assembly (that is the part shown in this

photo) can be removed, and the oily aperture blades

cleaned, by removing only the rear mount assembly

from the rest of the lens, and then some limited

disassembly of the rear mount assembly, and thencleaning the diaphragm assembly. While that would

fix the oily blade problem at least temporarily, this

limited fix would leave the old grease/oil in the lens

and ready, perhaps, to migrate again onto the aperture

blades, or onto the glass surfaces, leaving an oily haze

on the glass. And on my lens the zoom/focus

movement was loose and sloppy. The likely cause was

old lubricant breakdown, also the likely cause of oily

aperture blades.

So I decided to take apart most of this lens, clean the

oily aperture blades, clean any oily films on the

exposed glass lens groups, and inspect them for

haze/fungus/other problems, remove the broken-down

old grease from the helicoids and other parts, and re-lubricate with a good synthetic grease

having a wide temperature range. I'm satisfied with the end result.

List of Tools/materials used:

* Lens spanner wrench

* flat screwdriver 1.0x40 (for the really small screws), 1.5x40, 2.0x40, 2.5x40* clamps (hose clamps and plastic clamps)

* tweezers

* JIS/Crosspoint screwdriver 1.7x40mm, 2.0x50mm, 2.5x50mm, and 3.0x50mm

* phillips screwdriver 0x50

* a cleaning fluid of your choice. I used denatured alcohol (from most any hardware store).

Opinions differ, and some, with greater experience, prefer Coleman brand camp stove fuel

and/or naptha (lighter fluid). You pick the fluid you decide you want to use; I'm not

recommending anything. Be aware of all safety hazards and read all the product safety labels

and take all recommended precautions.

* dish soap and water * q-tips (lots of these)

* can of compressed air readily available product

* good synthetic grease with a wide temperature range

* an Ottlite Jupiter Magnifier Lamp, or similar lamp with a magnifier built in, which

relieves eyestrain. This is not an absolutely essential item, but it sure helps.

* a fluid of your choice for penetrating and loosening stuck threads on camera parts.

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Take Lots of Photos and Notes during Disassembly. Take lots of photos and notes during

disassembly. Go overboard here you cannot have too many photos at different angles. Look

carefully (before taking lots of pictures) for things such as slots or notches and anything

different, so you can get the parts reassembled in the original position. Close-up photos from

many different angles are a real help later.

JIS/Crosspoint head screws, phillips head screws, threadlocker, appropriate solvents for

stuck threads, appropriate glass lens cleaning solvents, proper screw removal techniques,etc. If these subjects are unfamiliar, consider even more carefully sending the lens to an

experienced lens repair person. Knowledge of these subjects is both helpful and beyond the

scope of what is presented here. Search the Internet for helpful information on these subjects.

You'll probably have to sift through the material to sort it out and find the good stuff. If not

familiar with lens disassembly, consider also finding a free or really cheap beater lens to

practice taking apart and reassembling before disassembling your good lens.

Threadlocker: There are several kinds. MEK or acetone will at least soften most of them but

are slow to penetrate deep threads. If all is metal, a red hot soldering tip on the screw head for

30 seconds often softens the threadlocker enough for a steady torque to move the screw. Whencool, it becomes stiff as ever.

Set screws: Set screws have a sharp point and often are slot headed. The screwdriver should

fit exactly to reduce the chances of breaking off one side. Remove as much paint as you can so

the screwdriver blade can fit. When reassembling, it does not take much force to replace them

adequately. Consider using threadlocker or something else to keep them there. If several are

spaced around a ring tighten them evenly or else the ring could warp and bind.

Disassembling the Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5

Tokina version

On this particular lens the 70mm zoom position is all the way forward (lens fully extended) and

the 210 mm position is all the way back (lens fully retracted). The infinity position is (viewed

from the rear) full counter-clockwise rotation, and the close focus position is (viewed from the

rear) full clockwise rotation. Filter threads do rotate

when focusing. When zooming, a subject in focus

remains in focus. Although I've not seen this lens in

mounts other than Canon FD, from the way the lens

is built, parts other than the rear mount assembly

parts (which includes the diaphragm assembly) fromother non-Canon mount lenses may well be

interchangeable.

Step #1. Take off the grip. It is the rubber-like

cover on the zoom ring. Red arrow in photo points

to the grip, already partly rolled off. Curved red arrow points to the zoom ring. Red thumbtack

points to the distance ring. And the red triangle points to the focus length indicator ring.

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A bamboo skewer works well to get under the grip edge and start rolling it off. The grip slides

or rolls off with your fingers. There may be a little glue under the grip, which youll first need

to separate from the zoom ring before taking the grip off. Again use the bamboo skewer, or

something wood slipped under the grip, rather than a metal flat screwdriver, although that

works also. Once the grip is off, you can see the black zoom ring and the two narrow slots (one

on each side, 180 apart) in which there is a metal tab attached to a part under the zoom ring.

You can also see round holes in the zoom ring.

Zoom the lens out to the 70mm focal length position.

Find the three very small set-screws (slot heads, often

with some black paint, glue or silicone on the slot

head) evenly spaced around the area of the zoom ring

next to the distance ring. These 3 set-screws in the

zoom ring hold the distance ring in place Loosen those

3 small set-screws in the zoom ring. Red arrow in

photo shows the location of one on the 3 small set-

screws. Try not to completely unscrew the 3 small set-

screws so that they drop out of the zoom ring. Puttingthem back in is a PITA (pain in the arse). If one of

the set-screws does fall out, use a piece of thin closed-

cell foam with a hole in it to hold the small set-screw

for re-installation.

Now find the three small screws (JIS headed) evenly

spaced around the focal length indicator ring that is

the part having the 70 to 210mm scale on it red

triangle on previous page points to it. One screw is very

near the Lens Made in Japan statement, as shown in

right photo. Remove those 3 small screws carefully;

expect threadlocker. It helps to keep groups of screws

such as these 3 in separate containers with a label

saying what they are. For instance, 3 focal length

indicator ring screws.

Step #2. Pushing the now loosened focal length

indicator ring towards the lens front, you can now see

the 3 screws that hold the rear mount assembly to the

rest of the lens. Red arrow in photo points to one ofthose 3 screws screw is out in this photo. Scribe a

line as shown in the photo, so you can reassemble in

the position you found. Remove all three screws, and

slide the rear mount assembly away from the rest of the lens. Also now slide the focal length

indicator ring and the focusing distance ring off the lens they come off easily. On one of my

lenses, one of the 3 screws simply spun in its hole; using gravity it fell out. Appears the

problem was stripped threads in the hole.

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Photo below shows the parts now disassembled. Red arrow points to the rear mount

assembly.

Step #3. Observe the front part of the rear lens

assembly, shown on top the photo right. There is

the suspect diaphragm on the very top. Scribe a

line as shown by red arrow, so you can

reassemble in the position you found.

Step #4. Now remove the 3 screws connecting the

two parts shown in photo left. Diaphragm blades areon right side of photo left. That part also includes the

4th (rear) lens group.

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Unscrew the 4thlens group, as shown in right photo. Watch

for any spacing washers when removing the 4thlens group.

The diaphragm assembly is the right part, above the

screwdriver. Avoid bending or altering the aperture control

arms in any way. They are a precise link between the

aperture and the aperture set ring.

Here's a picture from another angle of

the diaphragm assembly. Examine the

diaphragm assembly, and try gently

moving the levers that move the

aperture blades. Try to gently work the

aperture blades open and closed, withthe lever (sometimes called the blade

operating lever) that has a spring

attached to it; red arrow points to it If

the blades don't move, maybe the cam

on the other lever (sometimes called

the aperture cam ring) is holding the

blades open; curved red arrow points to

the aperture cam ring. So gently move the aperture cam ring back and forth. This should move

the blades so you can see them, as in the photo above. Try moving the blade operating ring

again with gentle pressure, and see if the blades now move. When the blades are visible, you

can often see clearly the sticky oil on the aperture blades, if oily blades are the problem but

sometimes only the pivots are stiff with dry oil.

Try removing any sticky oil on the aperture blades the easy way withoutdisassembling the

diaphragm assembly. Put the diaphragm assembly in the cleaning fluid of your choice,

observing all safety precautions. I chose denatured alcohol and a glass jar. Gently work the

aperture blades open and closed many times, with the blade operating ring or the aperture cam

ring so the cleaning fluid can get at the sticky oil on the blades. If nothing moves, let the

diaphragm assembly soak for a few hours in the cleaning fluid, and try again.

Often this will remove the oil and free up the aperture blades. When dry, the blades may besnappy once again, and snap down when you let go of the blade operating ring. Move the

aperture cam ring as well, to see if the blades now open and close properly. Count your

blessings if this happens! It worked on this particular lens, and I did not have to clean

individual blades, a PITA. If denatured alcohol had not worked, one can consider using (and

observing all safety precautions) other more powerful cleaning fluids commonly used on

camera parts. But that's just an opinion you decide. As a general rule, avoid using acetone or

MEK because some lens aperture blades are plastic and will be warped by such solvents.

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By moving the blade operating ring, check whether the blade operating ring fully opens the

diaphragm, and stops just after fully opening the diaphragm. If an adjustment is needed, adjust

the diaphragm stopper plate so that the blade operating ring stops just after fully opening the

diaphragm.

Reinstall the diaphragm assembly into the rear mount assembly, making sure the parts mate

correctly, and work properly. Use the f-stop ring to make sure the aperture assembly isworking correctly. When checking this on Canon FD mount versions, keep in mind that, when

the breech lock ring of the Canon FD lens is turned to the "off camera" position, the aperture

controls on the back of the lens do not function the same as when the ring it turned to the "on

camera" position. So on Canon FD lenses make sure the breech lock ring is in the on camera

position before checking the aperture assembly.

Or you can test whether the aperture

blades are working correctly by

mounting the rear mount assembly in thecamera, stopping down, and observing

the action of the aperture blades at

various f-stops. Photo right shows the

rear mount assembly on camera, and

aperture assembly being tested by

stopping down.

A general thought before turning to the next

step. While you have a chance to examine

each lens group individually, do so carefully,

as the lens groups are taken out. Besides

examining the outer glass surfaces of each

lens group for problems, look for fungus or

oily haze on the interior (that is, the non-

exposed) glass surfaces of each lens group.

Hopefully there is no problem on the non-

exposed glass surfaces; if there is, considerdealing with it. Here is a photo of the 4thlens

group, taken apart. In the 4thlens group of

one lens, there were numerous small dots

on the interior side of one glass piece. This

lens group was disassembled and cleaned, and reassembled onto the diaphragm assembly. What

is the point of a mechanically good lens with hazy or oily glass? The goal here is clean and

bright glass when everything is re-assembled, for those great pictures you'll be taking.

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Step #5. [Having fixed the oily diaphragm

blades, you could simply reassemble, and

skip the following steps. The following

steps assume that you've decided to remove

the old grease that probably caused the oily

diaphragm problem, and install new grease

suitable for cameras.] Using a spanner

wrench or other appropriate tool, removethe retaining ring that holds the cam ring in

place. [Spanner wrenches are for holding,

not turning. Hold the spanner wrench and

turn the lens under it.] The triangle in

photo right points to one of the two notches

(for your spanner wrench) in this hard to

see retaining ring.

Note: my spanner wrench tips would not fit far enough in to reach the slots here. So I held, at

an angle, a flat screwdriver in the notch, and gently, with a small hammer and repeated hammertaps and the screwdriver held about at a 45 degree angle, drove the notch with the flat

screwdriver, with the lens on a table held by hand from turning by another person. Unscrewed

this cam retaining ring that way; this is not recommended in any way and I should have

avoided it.

In both of my lenses, removing this cam

retaining ring was difficult, in part

because either threadlocker had

previously been used or junk had

gotten into the threads over the years,

binding them. Either get a proper

spanning wrench that will work in this

tight spot, or make a proper special tool.

On reassembly, this retaining ring needs

to be carefully fit in, to avoid cross-

threading and/or binding. Before putting

this retaining ring back in, it was

carefully cleaned, and some grease applied to it, as well with the threads into which it screws

these are in the zoom ring. The purpose being to make reassembly a little easier, and to make

any future disassembly less difficult than it was. See also the pictures in the reassembly

section, as this needed careful attention.

This photo shows the cam retaining ring off the rest of the lens, and cam ring moved towards

rear of lens. Now slide the cam ring towards the lens rear, rotating the cam ring just a little to

free it from the zoom ring shoulder onto which it fits on reassembly. With just a very little

rotation, the cam ring will slide into the position in photo above.

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Step #6. Note the 4 roller shafts and rollers,

and the three other screws in the various slots

in the cam ring. Arrow in photo points to one

of the 4 roller shafts and rollers . A thread

locking fluid may have been applied

previously. Take great care in removing these

roller shafts and rollers, as the parts are small

and replacement parts unavailable, unless youfind a parts lens to cannibalize. Once

unscrewed a few turns, the roller shaft is out of

its hole, but probably still in the slot because

of friction with the white plastic roller. Use

tweezers or another way to get the 4 roller shafts and rollers out of the slots. Also take out the

other 3 screws in the cam ring slots.

On one of my lenses all 4 roller shafts and the other 3 screws were slot headed. On the other

lens all 4 roller shafts and 2 of the other 3 screws were JIS headed.

After all 7 screws/rollers/guides are out of the

slots in the cam ring, the cam ring slides off.

Photo right shows the 2ndand 3rdlens groups

out (right side of photo); these lens groups are

free to gently slide out once the 4 rollers and

roller guides are removed. Cam ring is in

center of photo right; slide it off when all 7

screws in its slots are removed. When

reassembling, and it is time to put the 7 screws

back in, it is a bit easier if you install the 4

roller shafts and guides first, and the remaining

3 right after that. Easier to turn the cam ring a

bit and find the holes for the screws that way.

Step #7. Remove the zoom ring. Easiest to

remove one of the metal slot tab units by using

two of the round holes in the zoom ring to gainaccess to the two screws holding the metal slot

tab unit, and leave the other one in place ; just

tilt the zoom ring a bit, and get it off. Photo

shows cam ring and zoom ring off.

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Step #8. At this point, 1stlens group is in

outer helicoid (left curved red arrow), which

remains on inner helicoid (right curved red

arrow), and there is a ring holding the metal

tabs (to which the bottom red arrow points).

That outer helicoid retaining ring had the two

(now one, since one just taken off in previous

step) metal tabs that go into the focusing ringslots. In this photo the helicoids are in the

full counterclockwise viewed from lens

rear position. This is the fully retracted or

bottomed position. Note that this outer

helicoid retaining ring is held on by 3 screws

connecting that retaining ring to the outer helicoid; top arrow points to one of those 3 screws in

the outer helicoid. The two curved arrows also point to scribe marks that line up in three parts

the outer helicoid, the outer helicoid retaining ring, and the inner helicoid while they remain

in the full counterclockwise viewed from lens rear position. This is the fully retracted or

bottomed position.

The reason for this aligned scribe line: When

reassembling the two helicoids, in the full

counterclockwise viewed from lens rear

position, the helicoid lines should line up as

shown. Then the outer helicoid retaining ring

is put on, and it lines up as shown. All back to

original position as found before removing the

retaining ring and disassembling the two

helicoids. Right photo shows retaining ring

off, and two helicoids separated. Must realign

all 3 to original position scribe line helps

you do that.

Also, when separating the two helicoids, at the place where they finally separate, put a mark

(say, a white dot big enough to see easily) anywhere on one helicoid and another similar mark

directly opposite on the other helicoid. Then, upon reassembly, start mating the helicoids

where those two white dots are opposite each other. Saves time. And when in the full

counterclockwise viewed from lens rear position, the helicoid scribe lines should line up as

shown in the photo with red arrows.

**** Note for future consideration: perhaps clean these 3 parts as a unit, and then re-grease

unit. Then no need to disassemble the helicoids or remove the retaining ring for the outer

helicoid, but cleaning will not be quite as good. *****

Once parts cleaned and re-greased, they are ready for reassembly.

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Re-Assembly.

At this point, the old grease and oil have been cleaned off the parts. The oily diaphragm

assembly has been cleaned and (if taken apart, re-assembled) is ready for re-installation. The

individual lens groups have been examined and found to be clear, bright, and without

significant problems, with any oily films on the exposed glass surfaces removed. No

irreplaceable parts were ruined during disassembly. So the lens will be re-assembled, and

you've got great modern synthetic wide temperature range grease on hand, which you'vedecided will give your lens just the right feel (for you), when zooming and focusing. In general,

reassembly is the reverse of disassembling. See disassembly notes.

After lightly greasing the inner and outer helicoids, rest the

outer helicoid vertically on a table, and align the white dots

that marks where the helicoids came apart. Try to get the

helicoids started; do not push hard. A light pressure is all

that is needed; getting them aligned is the hard part. They

must be square with each other and the slope of the threads

fools your eyes.

Once the helicoids

mate, turn the inner helicoid so that it is all the way

bottomed, and your scribe marks should line up. If the

scribe marks do not line up, take out the inner helical,and rotate it a little as needed one way or the other

depending on what happened the first time, and reinsert,

and bottom, and see if the scribe marks line up as they

should. Repeat this process until the scribe marks line

up in the full counterclockwise viewed from lens rear

position. This is the fully retracted or bottomed

position. Then re-install the ring with the metal tab,

align its scribe mark with the scribe mark on the outer

helicoid, as shown on photo left. Now the helicoids and

the ring with the metal tabs are as you found them.

Here are some additional thoughts.

1. If you forget to put proper scribe lines on before separating the helicoids, doing the best

you can with your photos, temporarily re-assemble without the distance ring or focal

length indicator ring, and mount lens on camera. Move zoom ring to infinity position

and check whether an object at infinite distance (like a tall telephone pole on the distant

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horizon) is in correct focus, or blurry. Probably will be off focus because the two

helicoids are not back to the original position. Now move zoom ring so object at infinite

distance is sharp and clear. With the zoom ring not rotating from that sharp and clear

focus position, do the following:

a. remove lens from camera, and rear mount assembly from lens, and

b. put aligned scribe lines on the inner and outer helicoids and the outer helicoidretaining ring, as shown in photo above. Remember this is correct position for focus at infinity.

Now separate the two helicoids, and try different mating positions until the three scribe lines

line up as closely as possible, with helicoids in the full counterclockwise viewed from lens

rear position this will be the fully retracted position. Assemble again, and check in camera

whether infinity focus is now correct. Keep disassembling and re-assembling as needed until

you get it right.

Let me know if you find a better way; this is a PITA. Much better to put proper scribe marks

in, as noted earlier, before disassembling the helicoids.

2. On this lens, note that there is no readily apparent way to adjust slightly the infinity

focus. On one of my lenses the infinity focus is ever so slightly short of correct; on the other

the infinity focus is ever so slightly past correct. But perhaps the front lens can be turned in the

front threads of the outer helicoid? If it can turn in those threads, it will move a little forward

and back as it turns in those threads. And maybe that is the infinity focus adjustment for this

lens? Not sure; do not have the correct rubber tool to try to turn that large lens from the front.

Perhaps .? I chose not to turn the front lens, and leave things in the condition as found. I

invite comments/suggestions from experienced persons.

3. Note the front name plate ring with the serial number and such. Very steep angle.

One possibility, if the ring is stuck in the threads, is to drill a couple of small holes for spanner

wrench, if necessary. But first try a large rubber band pressed against the steep ring with your

fingers, and turn. That may be enough to remove that name ring.

4. Remember not to tighten too much the retaining ring for the cam ring, or the zoom

ring will not move. If the retaining ring for the cam ring is tightened too much, there is too

much friction and zoom ring binds, even with grease. Test the zoom ring as you do the final

tightening of the retaining ring for the cam ring. And be sure the cam ring is properly seatedbefore putting the retaining ring in. You probably will need to rotate the parts a little, to get the

cam ring all the way in. Check visually with a flashlight here.

5. Some additional photos to help understand a little more how the parts work now follow.

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Left photo shows inside of cam ring, and the shoulder, which is where the 2ndand 3rdlens

groups go. Right photo (left side) shows inside of zoom ring, and one of the two stops, and the

grooves and shoulders for the proper alignment of the cam ring against those shoulders, before

re-installing the retainer ring for the cam ring. Fine threads for the retaining ring for the cam

ring are there as well.

6. The 2ndand 3rdlens groups are held

together in a rubber cage for easier installation

and disassembly. They move fairly easily inside

the cam ring, when re-installing and attempting

to find the holes through the slots of cam ring, to

reinstall the roller shafts and rollers. Be patient,

don't force anything. This picture shows 3rdlens

group in its housing, and the 2ndlens group

removed from its housing for some cleaning of

that particular lens group.

7. Be sure to install the zoom ring before installing the cam ring and 2nd and 3rd lens

groups, and their associated screws and roller shafts and rollers. There are shoulders and

grooves inside the zoom ring against which the cam ring rides, so the zoom ring must go on

before cam ring.

An easy way to get zoom ring on: have one of

the metal tabs already installed on the retaining ring;

the other with its tab laying in its slot on zoom ringwith only gravity holding it, and move zoom ring on,

and move the metal tab part into place with gravity

and pointed tools. Once in place, hold in place with

toothpick into one screw hole, rotate toothpick to

top; put screw into other hole.

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Suppose you forgot to put one of the metal tabs on before installing the cam ring and its

retaining ring, so you can't put the metal tab in through the back. It is possible to maneuver the

metal tab through one of the round holes in zoom ring, and then maneuver the metal tab into

place on the outer helicoid retaining ring with gravity and pointed tools.

8. Note that the notch in the cam ring goes toward the lens rear, and lines up with the

notch in the inner helicoid.

Finally, I'd like to gratefully acknowledge the excellent help and comments of Mel Smith, who

kindly reviewed earlier drafts. That said, any mistakes here are the responsibility of the author

alone. Should you detect something(s) that needs correction, please send your constructive

comments to: *prenticefish*@*msn.com*. All such comments welcomed and appreciated. [The

e-mail address is not correct in the hope that spammers can't grab it and use it to peddle stuff.

Please cut and paste the address into your e-mail, then remove the *.]

Copyright 2010 Prentice Fish

All Rights Reserved

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Documents

Vivitar Series 1 Tokina Version 70-210 f3.5 Repair Disassembly Notes