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Published by European Union, training center for work in shoe design
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This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any
use which may be made of the information contained therein.
Project Title: Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design
Project No: 134124-LLP-1-2007-1-RO-LEONARDO-LMP Agreement No.: 2007-3111/001-001 LE3-MULPRO
Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design
Common Curriculum
This project has been funded
with support from the European
Commission.
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CONTENT
Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design as a Model
Development of Competence Based Curriculum
Part I Foot
Lesson 1.1. Knowledge on Foot Anatomy Applied to Footwear Design and
Pattern Making
Lesson 1.2. Knowledge on Foot Biomechanics Applied to Footwear Design and
Pattern Making
Part II- Footwear
Lesson 2.1. Materials Used for Footwear Products
Lesson 2.2. Footwear: Structure and Functions
Lesson 2.3. Lasts for Footwear Industry
Lesson 2.4. Footwear Technology
Lesson 2.5. Technological Allowances for Pattern Making
Part III- Measurements and Tools
Lesson 3.1. Measuring the Foot - Foot Anthropometrics
Lesson 3.2. Measurement Systems
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Lesson 3.3. Tools for Pattern Making
Part IV- Design and Pattern Making
Lesson 4.1. Principles and Elements of Design Applied to Footwear
Lesson 4.2. Basic Stages in Producing Footwear Patterns From 3D Design
Lesson 4.3. Producing Standard Forme of the Last
Lesson 4.4. Producing Design Standard (Master Pattern)
Lesson 4.5. Pattern Making for Womens Court Shoe
Lesson 4.6. Pattern Making for Mens Casual Shoe (Oxford, Derby)
Lesson 4.7. Pattern Making for Childrens Shoe
Lesson 4.8. Pattern Making for Loafers
Lesson 4.9. Pattern Making for Trainer/ Sport Shoe
Lesson 4.10. Pattern Making for Womens Sandals
Lesson 4.11. Pattern Making for Childrens Boots
Lesson 4.12. Pattern Making for Women High Boots
Lesson 4.13. Producing Lining Patterns
Lesson 4.14. Elements for Designing Bottom Components
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VIRTUAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR SHOE DESIGN AS A
MODEL
The rapidly changing technologies, as well as the innovative e-learning teaching methods
require for adapted modules for lifelong training that keeps continuously up to date with
the relevant developments of the European footwear industry. The Virtual Training
Centre for Shoe Design is an interactive platform, a meeting point for policy-makers,
social-partners, practitioners, researchers and all those with an interest in footwear
design field of vocational education and training. Experts in the field can share and
exchange knowledge and experience with associates within and outside the European
Union.
The projects scientific and pedagogic objectives are in tune with the main priority in
Lifelong Learning Programme. Through the various research and development projects,
partners have developed training materials for footwear design. These materials have to
be compared between involved partners in order to get common curricula to be share
with future users at a European level. The innovative e-content, developed within the
VTC-Shoe project, can easily be translated to various languages.
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DEVELOPMENT OF COMPETENCE BASED CURRICULUM
Recognizing competencies and skills needed in footwear industry and anticipating their
development stand for a complex mission given several socio-economical factors, which
must be taken into consideration. The stakeholders (VET schools, universities,
employers, professional associations etc.) have to monitor this identification taking place
at various levels: 1) deciding the overall competences development plan necessary for a
successful business strategy, action that should be taken at the highest managerial
level; 2) defining the new competence needs through involvement of employers and
employees; 3) elaborating specific competences development plan; 4) developing
learning environment.
The VTC-Shoe project attempted to design the competency-curriculum for VET under the
area of a Virtual Training Centre. The study research was conducted in order to identify
and explore the usefulness of the questionnaire tool in finding a suitable presentation
form for a competence-based curriculum. The sampling method based on convenience
and targeted colleagues, former students, business contacts from the footwear industry
and their acquaintances, from Romania, Greece and Turkey. The questionnaire was
developed based on planned curricula structure and on preliminary interviews with some
experts from footwear industry and potential trainers and trainees. After its development
with the partners in the project, it was applied on VTC-Shoe content development, and
modified accordingly with the feedback obtained from piloting courses.
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The curriculum and the content developed based on this curriculum stand on four parts.
The first part is about Foot. The second part is dedicated to Footwear. The third part
deals with Measurements and Tools. The last part is about Design and Pattern Making.
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PART I FOOT
LESSON 1.1. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT ANATOMY APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit aims to identify and describe the main structure and functions of the foot in
order to apply this knowledge to designing the footwear.
TOPICS
Identifying foot structure and its functions
Identifying problems related to footwear
CONTENT
1. Describe the structure and functions of the foot
2. The main foot structures: muscles, bones, joints, nervous system
3. Foot problems related to footwear. Structural and functional disorders of the
foot.
LESSON 1.2. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT BIOMECHANICS APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit aims to identify biomechanics parameters and to offer knowledge about gait
analysis computer techniques
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TOPICS
Managing and collecting measurements of foot biomechanics parameters with
computer techniques
Gait analysis is performed to obtain baseline data of consumers walk pattern
CONTENT
1. Foot biomechanics
2. Gait analysis
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PART II- FOOTWEAR
LESSON 2.1. MATERIALS USED FOR FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit aims to identify and describe the entire range of materials used in shoe
production both for upper and for bottom components (leather, textile, substitutes,
rubber, synthetics, non-woven etc.).
TOPICS
Identifying materials uses within footwear industry
Recognizing characteristics of materials
Determining performance of materials
Identifying common faults, problems and surface defects of materials
Selecting and testing the materials accordingly with the purpose of the product
CONTENT
1. Identifying/ Classifying footwear materials
2. Performances of materials for footwear
- Physical properties
- Mechanical properties
- Chemical properties
- Technological and usability characteristics of materials
3. List of international standards ( ISO) for footwear industry
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LESSON 2.2. FOOTWEAR: STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit presents various types of footwear considering their structure. The footwear
components, both for uppers and bottoms, are presented in relations with their role for
structuring and achieving the function of the entire footwear product.
TOPICS
Standard footwear types
Presenting the components of footwear: uppers (vamp, toe, quarter, counter,
tongue, apron, tab, strips, linings, stiffener, toe puff) and bottom (insole, rigid
insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, welt, middle sole, sole, heel)
Identifying footwear components both for upper and for bottom, their role and
recommended materials
Recognizing the functions that footwear has to fulfil during its use
CONTENT
1. Footwear components: uppers and bottoms
2. Constructive types
3. Description of the main features and functions of footwear
3.1. Types of footwear (fashion, casual, sport)
3.2. Footwear features (uppers, soles, heels, lining, laces and buckles, etc.)
3.3. Features of footwear related to foot function and structure (size, shape).
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LESSON 2.3. LASTS FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
Transferring the foot size and its general shape into definitive lasts includes variables
such as nature and extent of functional demands, foot characteristics, styles and
characteristics of the materials. This unit covers the theoretical knowledge regarding
various types of lasts used in footwear industry, as well as the selection criteria of a last
according to footwear design requirements.
TOPICS
Transforming the foot measurements into the last shape and dimensions
Identifying various types of lasts and their build-up components
Measuring and controlling the last
Selecting an appropriate existing or commercial last which closely matches the
required foot shape and size
CONTENT
1. Lasts for footwear industry
2. Classifying the lasts
3. Dimensional characterization of the last
4. Verifying the shape and the size using control patterns
5. Verifying the quality requirements
6. Selecting the last
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LESSON 2.4. FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit presents the entire manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through
closing, lasting, soling and finishing.
TOPICS
Identifying the manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing,
lasting, soling and finishing.
CONTENT
1. Cutting
2. Sewing
3. Lasting
4. Soling
5. Finishing
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LESSON 2.5. TECHNOLOGICAL ALLOWANCES FOR
PATTERN MAKING
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
There are three main types of allowances for the sectional patterns: lasting allowance,
seam allowance and edge allowance The unit presents basics information for establishing
these allowances according to the footwear manufacturing technology. Various design
effects need special allowances and these can be estimated considering the treatments
and materials involved.
TOPICS
Presenting and setting up the allowances for different edge treatments (folded
edge, binding edge, laced edge, special effects etc.);
Presenting and setting up the allowances for different type of seams
Presenting and setting up the lasting allowances accordingly with lasting
technology
CONTENT
1. Basics for uppers preparation due with the edge treatment
2. Basics of uppers closing by sewing
3. Basics for shoe lasting technology
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PART III- MEASUREMENTS AND TOOLS
LESSON 3.1. MEASURING THE FOOT - FOOT
ANTHROPOMETRICS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit defines and presents the anthropometrical parameters within the foot and leg.
Foot measurements may be undertaken by using basic measuring devices such as ruler
and measuring tape (manual techniques) or special equipments such as 3D scanners
(computer techniques).
TOPICS
Marking the anatomical points on foot and leg
Measuring the foot and defining anthropometrical parameters
Managing and collecting measurements of foot parameters with computer
techniques
Assigning the relation between main dimensions of the foot (length and girth) and
shoes size
CONTENT
1. Anatomical points of the foot with an active role in biomechanics.
2. Anthropometrical parameters of the foot: length, width, girth, height, and angles
3. Variability of the foot dimensions and shape during standing and walking
4. Practice of measuring the foot and leg
4.1 Manual procedure for measuring the foot/leg
4.2 Computer technique for measuring the foot/leg
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LESSON 3.2. MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
To present various measurement systems by connecting foot and last measurements
with footwear sizing.
TOPICS
Describing foot, last and footwear measurement sizing
Interpreting design brief
Analysing and assessing sizing for footwear design
Adapting the measurements of foot to shoe design requirements
CONTENT
1. Measurements of the foot transposed into measurements of the last
2. Footwear sizing
2.1. French (Continental) Measurement System
2.2. English Measurement System
2.3. American Measurement System
2.4. Mondopoint System
2.5. Sizing charts and transformation relation between various measurement
systems. Measurement and comparison tables
3. The effect of poor-fitting or poorly made shoes
4- Shoe Size Conversion Tables
- Adults (Men and Women) Shoe Size Conversion Table - Girls Shoe Sizes - Boys Shoe Sizes - BATA Comparative Chart Table
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LESSON 3.3. TOOLS FOR PATTERN MAKING
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
In order to obtain good patterns it is necessary to know and select the essentials tools.
This unit demonstrates which these tools are and how they are used for.
TOPICS
Presenting the tools for pattern making
CONTENT
B type various pencils
Cutting knife
Measuring tape
School rubber
Metal ruler
Compass
Protractor
Copying wheel
Scissors
Revolving punch plier
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PART IV- DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING
LESSON 4.1. PRINCIPLES AND ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
In order to create a good product design, knowledge about the theory of elements and
principles of design is required. The unit demonstrates how elements of design
integrated into principles of designs could be used within the footwear product concept.
TOPICS
Elements of design applied to footwear
Principles of design applied to footwear
Examples, presentations and recommendations
CONTENT
1. Introduction
2. Elements of product design: line, shape, form and colour
3. Principles of product design: repetition, pattern, gradation, rhythm, radiation,
harmony, contrast, dominance, proportion, balance, and unity
4. Examples of brand designs
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LESSON 4.2. BASIC STAGES IN PRODUCING FOOTWEAR PATTERNS FROM 3D DESIGN
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit aims present the essentials of footwear pattern making in accordance with the
design specification and manufacturing requirements. The student will be introduced with
the VTC Shoe pattern making method. This method requires for 3D design to be created
first directly on the last and then accurately transferred into a 2D standard design, and
finally being transformed into working patterns.
TOPICS
Defining design lines and features on 3D last
Translating designs from 3D to 2D standard forme
Drawing patterns to outfit required specifications of the footwear
Modifying and adjusting patterns
CONTENT
1. VTC Shoe pattern making method
2. Stages in producing footwear patterns
2.1. Completing design specification and selecting the last
2.2. Producing the mean forme
2.3. Drawing the standard design grid
2.4. Drawing the 3D model directly on the last
2.5. Transferring design lines from 3D shell to 2D standard forme
2.6. Obtaining the 2D standard design of the model ( Master
Pattern)
2.7. Producing and modifying working patterns
3. Producing footwear patterns for boots and high boots
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LESSON 4.3. PRODUCING STANDARD FORME OF THE LAST
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The mean forme is the most important pattern in footwear design. If it is not accurate,
all the patterns will reproduce the errors within the original mean forme. The unit
presents several accurate methods of producing mean forme.
TOPICS
Identifying the forme-making methods: paper slotted forme, paper taped forme;
Transposing the main anatomical points and lines on the last accordingly with
their position on foot
Obtaining outside and inside forme by flattening the surface of the last
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CONTENT
1. Introduction
2. Forme-making methods
2.1. Forme-making using paper slotted method;
2.2. Forme-making using paper tape method;
3. Flattening inside and outside formes and making adjustments in order to get the
mean forme.
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LESSON 4.4. PRODUCING DESIGN STANDARD (MASTER PATTERN)
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The standard design gives a master pattern that represents the shape and the basic lines
of the footwear model, and they are transposed into a 2D drawing.
It is very important that the design standard should have position points, and the basic
lines should be clearly marked.
These points and basic lines are linked with the anatomy and biomechanics of the foot,
and have to be in view during all the stages of designing and pattern making process.
TOPICS
Producing design standard in reference to foot anatomy, last construction/
characteristics and footwear style.
CONTENT
1. The link between foot anatomy and basic construction lines.
2. Auxiliary constructions lines
3. The link between construction lines and footwear patterns.
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LESSON 4.5. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS COURT SHOE UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The classic court shoe is the most common model of womens footwear. In order to get an accurate pattern for this type of shoe fitting correctly on the last, basic principles of
pattern making are to be known as well as the necessary adjustments.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for court shoe
Drawing the outline for vamp, toe cap, quarter, counter
Obtaining design standards for court shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
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CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Designing requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the
patterns
2. 3D modelling of the court shoe
3. Producing design standards (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.6. PATTERN MAKING FOR MENS CASUAL SHOE (OXFORD, DERBY)
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
Designing and producing patterns for classical types of mens shoes, as Oxford and Derby models, are presented in this unit. The Oxford style is characterized by the fact
that the vamp section is laid over the quarter sections. The Derby shoe is a lace-up style
in which the quarters are laid on the vamp section.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for Oxford/Derby shoe
Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps
Obtaining design standard for Mens Oxford shoe
Obtaining design standard for Mens Derby shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Design requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the
patterns
2. 3D modelling of the Mens shoe
2.1. Oxford shoe
2.2. Derby shoe
3. Producing design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
3.1. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Oxford shoe
3.2. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Derby shoe
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LESSON 4.7. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDRENS SHOE
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
It is to be noted that childrens shoe is not a small size of an adult shoe. Special features are required for this category of shoes due to different conditions and
features that childrens feet have to perform.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for childrens shoe
Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps
Obtaining design standard for childrens shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Differences in pattern making between children and adults shoes
1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding the shape or specific outlines
of the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the childrens shoe
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.8. PATTERN MAKING FOR LOAFERS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
A low step-in shoe is called Loafer and it is characterized by the fact that no laces or
other systems for setting up on foot are used. Designing this type of shoe requires
special attention to the topline of the uppers that has to be according to the usability of
the footwear. Elastic tape could be used and the patterns for uppers have to be designed
taking the presence of this functional element into consideration.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots
Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Selecting the last to meet to meet the design specification
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding to shape or to specific outlines of
the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the Loafers
3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.9. PATTERN MAKING FOR TRAINER/ SPORT SHOE
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The constructive characteristics of this type of leisure/sport footwear lie in the uppers
style as being the same for men, women and children. The uppers can be made from
different types or combination of materials. They could have following patterns: split toe
cap, outside counter, back tab facing, front facing and side flash (side stripe).
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for trainer/sport shoe
Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for trainer/sport shoe
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification
1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding shape or specific outlines of
the patterns
2. 3D modelling of the trainer/sport shoe 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.10. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS SANDALS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The most common method for sandals pattern making is by drawing the design lines and the sectional patterns directly on last. The 3D model is translated into the 2D
standard forme and the working patterns are obtained.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for sandals
Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for sandals
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and
dimensions
2. 3D Modelling of the womens sandals 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.11. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDRENS BOOTS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a boot. For
designing boots or high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the
reference system. A standard design (master pattern) is constructed based on the same
principles as described in lesson 4.4. The pattern making for boots is based both on the
mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about
heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots
Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Differences in pattern making of shoes and boots
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions
2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.12. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN HIGH BOOTS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a high boot.
For designing high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the
reference system. The pattern making for high boots is based both on the mean forme
and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and
girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables.
TOPICS
Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for high boots
Drawing the outline of sectional patterns
Obtaining design standard for high boots
Making and modifying the working patterns
Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets,
working progress files
CONTENT
1. Preparatory stage for pattern making
1.1. Differences in pattern making between shoes and high boots
1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions
2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns
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LESSON 4.13. PRODUCING LINING PATTERNS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
This unit presents different ways of making patterns of lining for classic types of
footwear (Court shoe, Derby shoe, Oxford shoe). At the base of lining pattern making
lies the uppers standard design having only the lasting allowance, without folding or sewing allowances. There are two types: joined linings by seam and free linings. Also,
the linings could be from leather or from fabrics.
TOPICS
Presenting the role of lining
Producing lining patterns for Court shoe, and for Derby/ Oxford shoe
CONTENT
1. What is the role of lining?
2. Lining pattern making for mens Derby/ Oxford shoe
3. Lining pattern making for womens Court shoe
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LESSON 4.14. ELEMENTS FOR DESIGNING BOTTOM COMPONENTS
UNIT DESCRIPTOR
The basic construction grid for designing bottom components is presented in this unit.
Practical exercises demonstrate the principles for designing main components of the
bottom.
TOPICS
How to construct a grid for designing bottom components
Designing bottom components: insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling,
insole cover, sole.
CONTENT
1. Basic construction grid for designing bottom components
2. Insole
3. Rigid insole backer
4. Shank
5. Bottom filling
6. Insole cover
7. Sole
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