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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Anthony Haywood, Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca
Vienna
Contents
Welcome to Vienna ......... 4
Vienna’s Top 10 ................ 6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know ................ 14
First Time Vienna .......... 16
Top Itineraries ............... 18
If You Like... ....................20
Month by Month ............22
With Kids ........................24
Like a Local ....................25
For Free .......................... 27
Guided Tours & Walks ...28
Eating ............................ 31Coffee Houses & Cake Shops ...................37Drinking & Nightlife... 42Entertainment ............ 45Shopping ...................... 48Sports & Activities ..... 51
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Vienna 207
Survival Guide 227
Vienna Maps 249
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Vienna 54
Transport .................... 228
Directory A–Z ..............232
Language .................... 236
Behind the Scenes ..... 240
Index .............................242
Vienna Today .............. 208
History ..........................210
City of Music ................ 217
Visual Arts & Architecture ................. 219
Vienna in Print & on Film ..........................224
The Hofburg & Around ............................58
Stephansdom & the Historic Centre ..............73
Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt ...................93
The Museum District & Neubau .......................... 111
Alsergrund & the University District ....... 132
Schloss Belvedere to the Canal .................. 145
Prater & East of the Danube .................. 162
Schloss Schönbrunn & Around .......................... 173
Day Trips from Vienna ..............................183
Sleeping ..........................198
ING
OLF P
OM
PE / G
ET
TY IM
AG
ES ©
SY
LVAIN
SO
NN
ET / G
ET
TY IM
AG
ES ©
LOU
IS JA
WIT
Z / GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
Karlsplatz &Around Naschmarkt
Schloss Belvedereto the Canal
Prater &East of the Danube
Alsergrund &the University District
p132
Stephansdom &the Historic
CentreThe Hofburg& Around
The Museum District& Neubau
SchlossSchönbrunn &
Around
p162
p73
p58
p111
p93
p145
p173
(left) Burggarten p68 Visit the Mozart statue.
(above) Kunsthistor-isches Museum p113 Admire famed artworks in a sumptuous palace.
(right) Sacher Torte Sample a piece at Hotel Sacher (p201).
GR
AN
T FAIN
T / GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
The Hofburg & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .69Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 71Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Stephansdom & the Historic Centre . . . . . . 73Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .88Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .90Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .92
Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt . . . . . . . . . 93Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .104Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .108Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
The Museum District & Neubau . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 128Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .130Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 131
Alsergrund & the University District . . 132Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 141Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 142Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Schloss Belvedere to the Canal . . . . . . . . 145Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .160Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 161Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 161
Prater & East of the Danube . . . . . . . . 162Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 169Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 170Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 170
Schloss Schönbrunn & Around . . . . . . . . . . 173Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 181Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 181Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Day Trips from Vienna . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Salzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Krems an der Donau . . . . .190Melk & Around . . . . . . . . . . 192Znojmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Bratislava (Slovakia) . . . . . 195
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Explore Vienna
54
The Hofburg ..................... 60
Stephansdom ...................75
Karlskirche .........................95
Staatsoper ........................ 96
Kunsthistorisches Museum ............................113
MuseumsQuartier ...........119
Naturhistorisches Museum ...........................122
Schloss Belvedere & Gardens............................ 147
Heeresgeschichtliches Museum ...........................152
Museum für Angewandte Kunst .........153
Prater ................................164
Schloss Schönbrunn ...... 175
TOP SIGHTSVIENNA’S
55
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Vienna Maps
249
MaP inDeX1 Stephansdom & the Historic Centre (p252)
2 The Hofburg & Around (p254)
3 Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt (p256)
4 Museum District & Neubau (p260)
5 Alsergrund & the University District (p262)
6 Prater & East of the Danube (p266)
7 Schloss Belvedere to the Canal (p268)
8 Schloss Schonbrunn & Around (p270)
1
11
1 11
11
11
11
1
11
1
11
1
11
11
INNER
EST
ADT1
NEU
STIFT
AMWAL
D
HIETZ
ING
13
PENZI
NG
14
LANDST
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E3
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ING
11
DORN
BACH
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NAL
S17W
ÄHRI
NG
18
PÖTZ
LEIN
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UNTE
RSIEVE
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STHOF
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ING
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UNTE
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ING
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ETEN
5
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ITTE
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20
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7
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STHOF
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AKRI
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16
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RGRU
ND
9
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IAHILF6
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lteDonau
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elsb
ach-
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oss
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Wien
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ube C
anal
Ð" 1
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Ð" 7
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iles
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riC Centre
STEP
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TRE
Map
onp2
52
æTo
pSigh
ts(p
75)
14Greek
Ortho
doxChu
rch..E
435
BrezlGwölb
.....................B3
58Diglas.................................D
580
Heilig
enkreu
zerhof
..........E4
1Hau
sde
rMus
ik................D
715
Holoc
aust-D
enkm
al.........B3
36CaféKorb..........................C
459
Enrico
Pan
igl.....................E
481
Man
ner..............................D
42
Steph
ansd
om...................D
516
Jesu
itenk
irch
e..................E4
37Ex
pedit...............................F3
60FirstF
loor..........................D
3Meinl
amGrabe
n....(se
e45
)17
Kirch
eAm
Hof
..................B3
38Figlmüller..........................D
461
Flan
agan
's.........................D
782
Sha
kesp
eare
&Co...........D
3æ
Sigh
ts(p
77)
18Maria
amGes
tade
............C2
39Figlmüller..........................D
462
Haa
s&Haa
s.....................D5
83Ung
erun
dKlein................C2
3Am
Hof
..............................B3
Mon
umen
ttotheVictim
s40
Fres
hSou
p&Salad
.........C3
63Kleines
Café......................D6
Vienn
aBag
..............(see
55)
4Ank
eruh
r...........................D
3of
Fasc
ism............
(see
19)
41Griec
henb
eisl....................E
364
Kruge
r'sAmerican
Bar
...C7
84Wein&Co..........................C4
5Archivde
s19
Morzinp
latz.......................D
242
Hidde
nKitc
hen................B
3Meinl'sWeinb
ar......(see
45)
85Wok
a..................................D
5Österreichisc
hen
20Moz
arthau
sVienn
a..........D5
43Hollm
annSalon
................E4
65Pickw
ick's.........................D
3Widerstan
ds..................C3
21Mus
eum
Jude
nplatz........B
3Korna
t......................(see
32)
66Sky
Bar
..............................C6Ø
Spor
ts&
Activities
(p92
)6
Aus
trianAca
demyof
the
22Neidh
art-Fres
ken.............C3
44Mas
chuMas
chu...............D3
67Vis-à-vis.............................D
486
Bad
esch
iff.........................G3
Scien
ces.........................E4
23Pes
tsäu
le...........................C5
45Meinl'sRes
tauran
t..........B4
68Why
Not?..........................B
387
DDSGBlueDan
ube..........E3
7Baw
ag24
Petersk
irch
e......................B4
46Motto
amFlus
s.................E3
69Wun
derbar........................E4
88RingTr
am..........................E
3Con
tempo
rary/B
awag
25Pos
tspa
rkas
se..................F4
47Res
tauran
tBau
er.............E4
70ZwölfA
postelke
ller..........D4
89Vienn
aEx
plorer
................C
1Fo
unda
tion.....................F3
26Röm
erMus
eum................C3
48Tian
....................................D6
8Böh
misch
eHofka
nzlei....C3
27Rup
rech
tskirche
...............D3
49Wrenk
h..............................C4ý
Ente
rtainm
ent
(p90
)ÿ
Slee
ping
(p20
1)Cathe
dral
Pum
merin(see
2)28
Stadttempe
l......................D
350
Yohm
.................................B4
71ArtisInternationa
l............C
390
DO&CO............................C
5Cathe
dral
Sou
thTo
wer(see
2)Steph
ansd
om51
Zan
oni&
Zano
ni..............D4
72Gartenb
aukino
.................E6
91Hollm
annBeletag
e..........E4
9Dom
-&Katak
ombe
n..........(se
e2)
52Zum
Sch
warze
n73
Jazz
land
............................D
392
Hotel
Aus
tria.....................E4
Diöze
sanm
useu
m.........D4
29Uhren
Mus
eum.................B
3Kam
eel...........................B
474
Kam
merop
er....................E4
93Hotel
Kärntne
rhof
............E4
10Dom
inikan
erkirche
..........F
475
Porgy
&Bes
s....................E
694
Lamée
Vienn
a...................D4
11Dr-Igna
z-Seipe
l-Platz......E4
úEa
ting
(p85
)û
Drink
ing&
Night
life
(p88
)95
Ope
raSuites.....................C
712
ErsteÖsterrich
isch
e30
Aka
kiko
..............................D4
5315
16BrewingCom
pany
..D7þ
Shop
ping
(p90
)96
Pen
sion
Riedl....................F4
Spa
rkas
se......................B
431
All'Isola.............................E
454
Aida...................................C5
76Altm
ann&Küh
ne.............C
597
Rad
isso
nBlu
Palais
Fleisc
hmarkt............(see
14)
32Aurelius.............................D
355
CaféAltWien.....................E
477
ArtUp................................C
4Hotel
...............................E
713
Fran
zisk
anerkirche
..........D
633
Beim
Cza
ak.......................E
456
CafeNek
o.........................D
678
Atelie
rNas
ke....................C
398
Sch
weize
rPen
sion
...........C
2Grabe
n.....................(see
23)
34Bod
egaMarqu
és..............B
357
CaféPrück
el......................F5
79Aus
trianDelights.............D
399
Topa
zzVienn
a..................D4
251
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DoM
& t
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riC Centre
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57Oldtim
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33CaféGrien
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2Film
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222
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223
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see60
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10Helmut-Zilk
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5Wien..............................E3
35CaféTirolerh
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60Hotel
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324
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436
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440
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350
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27Volks
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æ Top Sights (p95) 31 Saigon..............................F2 71 Filmcasino...................... E61 Karlskirche.....................H3 32 Silberwirt........................ E6 72 Info unter den2 Secession........................F2 33 Steman...........................B4 Arkaden........................G13 Staatsoper......................G1 34 Süssi ...............................F3 73 Kino Unter Sternen.......H34 Wien Museum................H3 35 Tancredi ......................... F6 74 Musikverein ...................H2
36 Tongues ......................... E3 Schikaneder......... (see 62)æ Sights (p97) 37 Ubl................................... F4 Staatsoper ..............(see 3)
5 Akademie der 38 Umar................................F3 75 Theater an der Wien......F3Bildenden 39 Urbanek...........................F3 76 Top Kino......................... E2Künste ..........................F2 40 Vapiano .......................... E3 77 Viennale Main
6 Generali Foundation.....G4 41 Zum Alten Fassl ............ E6 Booth........................... E27 Haus des Meeres ..........C4 78 Wiener8 Haydnhaus..................... A5 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p104) Philharmoniker9 Kunsthalle Project 42 Akrap .............................. E2 Karten- und
Space...........................G3 43 Alt Wien ...........................F3 Ballbüro.......................H2Naschmarkt......... (see 26) 44 Aux Gazelles .................. E2
10 Otto Wagner 45 Barfly's Club ..................B4 þ Shopping (p109)Buildings ..................... E4 46 Café Drechsler................F3 79 Babettes......................... F4
11 Schubert Sterbe- 47 Café Jelinek ...................B5 80 Blühendes Konfekt ....... A5wohnung ......................E5 48 Café Rüdigerhof............D4 Dörthe Kaufmann(see 90)
Staatsopern- 49 Café Savoy..................... E4 81 ebenBERG......................C3museum...............(see 3) 50 Café Sperl ...................... E3 82 feinedinge ...................... E5
12 Stadtbahn 51 Café Willendorf..............C5 83 Flo Vintage Mode.......... F4Pavillons......................H3 Club U....................(see 12) 84 Fruth ............................... E4
13 Third Man Private 52 Ebert's Cocktail 85 Gabarage UpcyclingCollection.....................F4 Bar................................D3 Design..........................G4
14 Thum Schinken- 53 Elektro Gönner..............A4 86 Göttin des Glücks.......... F4manufaktur................. C7 54 Goodmann..................... F4 87 Helene ............................ E5
Kunsthallencafé .....(see 9) 88 Henzls Ernte .................. E5ú Eating (p101) 55 Lutz ................................. E2 89 Lichterloh....................... E315 Amacord .........................F3 56 Mango Bar...................... E3 90 Mein Design................... E516 Aromat ............................E5 57 Mon Ami......................... E3 91 Näherei Apfel................. E517 Breakfast Club ...............F4 58 Orange One.................... F4 Piccini Piccolo18 Chang Asian 59 Phil .................................. E3 Gourmet............ (see 29)
Noodles .......................G5 60 Puff.................................. E3 92 Rave Up..........................C5Collio..................... (see 97) 61 Roxy.................................F3 93 Sekt Comptoir................F3
19 Corns n' Pops ................ E3 62 Schikaneder................... F4 94 Thalia ..............................B420 Delicious Monster.........H4 63 Sekt Comptoir............... F421 Gergely's ........................ E6 64 Tanzcafé Jenseits.........C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p28)22 Haas Beisl .......................E5 65 Titanic............................. E3 95 City Segway Tours........G223 Kojiro ...............................F4 Top Kino Bar........ (see 76) 96 Hop On Hop Off.............G224 Mill................................... A5 66 Wieden Bräu..................G525 Motto ..............................D5 67 Zweitbester.................... F4 ÿ Sleeping (p202)26 Naschmarkt....................F3 97 Das Triest.......................G4
Naschmarkt Deli ..(see 27) ý Entertainment (p108) 98 Das Tyrol ........................ E227 Neni..................................F3 68 Bundestheater- 99 Hotel Drei Kronen ..........F328 ON....................................E5 kassen ..........................G1 100 Hotel Imperial................H229 Piccini Piccolo 69 Burg Kino ........................F1 101 Pension Kraml...............C4
Gourmet.......................F3 70 English Cinema30 Ra'mien .......................... E3 Haydn ..........................C3
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MUSEUM DISTRICT & NEUBAU Map on p260
æ Top Sights (p113) 38 Rauch .......................................................... E61 Kunsthistorisches Museum ..................... H4 Rote Bar............................................. (see 47)2 MuseumsQuartier...................................... G4 39 Siebensternbräu..........................................F53 Naturhistorisches Museum...................... G4 40 Wirr...............................................................D44 Rathaus........................................................G1
ý Entertainment (p130)æ Sights (p123) Burgtheater..........................................(see 6)
5 ArchitekturzentrumWien......................... G4 41 Dschungel Wien..........................................G46 Burgtheater .................................................H1 42 Jirsa Theater Karten Büro..........................F37 Hauptbücherei Wien...................................B5 43 MQ Point......................................................G48 Hofmobiliendepot.......................................D6 44 oeticket Center Museumsquartier...........G49 Justizpalast .................................................G3 45 TanzquartierWien......................................G510 Kunsthalle................................................... G4 46 Vienna's English Theatre............................F211 Leopold Museum....................................... G4 47 Volkstheater................................................G312 MUMOK....................................................... G413 Palais Epstein..............................................G3 þ Shopping (p130)14 Parlament ....................................................G2 48 Art Point....................................................... E515 Zoom ............................................................G5 49 Be a good girl ..............................................D5
50 Buchhandlung Walther König...................G4ú Eating (p126) 51 Das Möbel.................................................... F416 Amerlingbeisl ..............................................F4 52 Dirndlherz....................................................D317 Bizzo .............................................................E6 53 Elke Freytag .................................................F518 Die Burgermacher ......................................F4 54 Freaks & Icons ............................................ E519 Gaumenspiel ...............................................D4 55 Holzer Galerie ..............................................F520 Glacis Beisl.................................................. G4 56 Ina Kent........................................................D621 Halle............................................................. G4 57 Le Shop........................................................ E422 Kantine ........................................................ G4 58 Lomoshop ...................................................G423 Konoba.........................................................D3 59 Mot Mot ....................................................... E424 Kulinarium 7 ................................................ F5 60 Park .............................................................. E525 Liebling.........................................................E6 61 Schauraum.................................................. E526 Lux ................................................................F4 Schmuckladen ..................................(see 57)27 M Lounge .....................................................D4 62 Schokov........................................................F528 MaschuMaschu II.......................................E6 63 Shu! .............................................................. E529 Pizzeria-Osteria Da Giovanni ....................F430 Spirali............................................................E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p131)31 St Josef ........................................................E5 64 Stadthalle .................................................... A532 Tart'a Tata ...................................................E5 65 Wiener Eistraum..........................................G1
Vestibül ................................................ (see 6)33 Zu den Zwei Liesln ......................................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p204)
66 25hours Hotel .............................................F3ûDrinking & Nightlife (p128) 67 Academia Hotels ........................................D234 Blue Box .......................................................D6 68 Altstadt ........................................................ E4
Café Leopold ...................................... (see 11) 69 Believe It Or Not .........................................D4Café Oben ............................................ (see 7) 70 Boutiquehotel Stadthalle ..........................A6Dachboden ........................................(see 66) 71 Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design................... E3
35 Donau ...........................................................G5 72 Kaiser 23......................................................B636 Europa..........................................................E6 73 myMOjO vie ................................................B437 Frauencafé...................................................E3 74 Pension Wild.................................................F3
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æ Top Sights (p135) 18 Café Hummel.................C7 ý Entertainment (p142)1 Sigmund Freud 19 Cupcakes Wien..............D7 48 B72..................................B6
Museum .......................F4 20 Curryinsel........................E7 49 Café Carina .................... B721 EN....................................H6 50 Café Concerto ............... B7
æ Sights (p134) 22 Gasthaus Flosz..............G5 51 De France....................... F62 Beethoven 23 Gasthaus Wickerl.......... F4 52 Miles Smiles...................D7
Pasqualatihaus............F6 24 Gu....................................D6 53 Schauspielhaus............. F43 Bethaus...........................E5 25 Kent ................................A6 54 Theater in der4 Josephinum................... E4 26 Kim Kocht ......................D3 Josefstadt ...................D75 Kunstforum ...................G6 27 La Tavolozza..................D7 55 Volksoper.......................D3Liechtenstein Rasouli.................. (see 36) 56 Votivkino .........................F5Museum ...............(see 8) 28 Saigon............................. A7 57 WUK................................D3
6 Museum für 29 Schnattl..........................D7Volkskunde.................D6 30 Soupkultur .....................G6 þ Shopping (p143)
7 Palais Daun-Kinsky.......G6 31 Stomach.........................G3 58 Altes AKH Christmas8 Palais Liechtenstein ......F3 32 Suppenwirtschaft .........G4 Market .........................D59 Pathologisch- 33 Wiener Deewan ..............F5 59 Altwiener Markt.............G6
anatomische 60 BauernmarktSammlung im ûDrinking & Nightlife (p141) Yppenplatz..................A6Narrenturm ................D4 34 Café Berg ........................F5 61 Brunnenmarkt............... A7
10 Piaristenkirche.............. D7 35 Café Central...................G7 Freyung Market... (see 59)11 Rossauer Kaserne ........G4 36 Café CI............................A6 62 K&K12 Schottenkirche..............G6 37 Café Florianihof.............C6 Schmuckhandels ........E713 Schubert 38 Café Landtmann ........... F6 63 La Salvia ........................A6
Geburtshaus............... E2 39 Café Stein........................F5 64 Palais Ferstel .................G714 Servitenkirche................F4 40 Chelsea........................... B7 65 Staud's ...........................A615 University Main 41 Flex..................................H5 66 Xocolat ..........................G4
Building ........................F6 42 Halbestadt Bar ...............D1 67 Y5 ....................................A616 Votivkirche......................F5 43 Loft.................................. B7
44 Mas! ................................C6 ÿ Sleeping (p205)ú Eating (p137) 45 Rhiz ................................. B7 68 Benediktushaus ............G617 An-Do..............................A6 46 Tunnel.............................D6
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264
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æ Top Sights (p164) ûDrinking & Nightlife (p169)1 Prater............................................................D6 24 Le Loft ..........................................................H3
25 Sperlhof ........................................................H1æ Sights (p166) 26 Tachles.........................................................H2
2 Augarten ......................................................B43 Donauturm ..................................................E2 ý Entertainment (p170)4 Johann Strauss Residence........................C6 27 Fluc...............................................................D55 Leopoldkirche..............................................H1 28 Kino wie noch nie.........................................H16 Madame Tussauds Vienna........................D6 29 MuTh .............................................................H17 Porzellanmuseum im Augarten................B5 30 Odeon...........................................................H28 Pratermuseum............................................D6 31 Pratersauna ................................................ E69 UNO-City......................................................F310 Wiener Kriminalmuseum...........................H1 þ Shopping (p170)11 Wurstelprater..............................................D6 32 Nagy Strickdesign......................................G2
Song ................................................... (see 22)ú Eating (p167) Stilwerk Wien .................................... (see 24)12 Einfahrt.........................................................H113 Fett+Zucker................................................ H2 Ø Sports & Activities (p170)14 Kaas amMarkt ............................................G2 33 Alte Donau...................................................G215 Karmelitermarkt .........................................H1 34 Copa Cagrana Rad und Skaterverleih ..... F4
Madiani................................................(see 15) 35 Donauinsel...................................................G616 Pizza Mari'....................................................H1 36 Krieau............................................................F717 Restaurant Mraz & Sohn ...........................B3 37 Minopolis ..................................................... F418 Restaurant Vincent.....................................H1 38 Pedal Power ................................................D519 Schöne Perle ...............................................H1 Planetarium..........................................(see 8)20 Skopik & Lohn ............................................. G1 39 Riesenrad ....................................................D621 Spezerei ...................................................... H2 40 Sailing School Hofbauer............................G222 Stewart........................................................ H3 41 Strandbad Alte Donau................................F223 Tempel .........................................................C6 42 Strandbad Gänsehäufel ............................G4
Tewa ................................................... (see 14)Zimmer 37 ......................................... (see 14) ÿ Sleeping (p205)
43 Gal Apartments ..........................................C644 Hotel Capri ..................................................C6
265
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Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – November 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 938 5© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Anthony HaywoodCoordinating Author, The Hofburg & Around and Stephansdom & the Historic Centre Anthony is a freelance journalist and has been based in Ger-many for over two decades. While travelling to Moscow in the very early 1990s he detoured to Vienna, the first of very frequent travels to the Austrian capital. This was the start of a fascination with Vienna, which he loves for its unusual contrasts of high and low culture, and of course for the Viennese themselves
and their humour, the famous Wiener Schmäh. While writing this new edition of the city guidebook he explored the capital under snow in double-digit subzero temperatures – Vienna from one of its most beautiful sides. He has coordinated and coauthored numerous guidebooks and written a cul-tural history of Siberia (useful for surviving cold snaps). Anthony wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section, along with the Neighbourhoods at a Glance and Sleeping chapters and the Understand Vienna and Survival Guide sections. For more, visit www.anthonyjhaywood.com.
Kerry ChristianiKarlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt, The Museum District & Neubau, Alsergrund & the University District, Schloss Belvedere to the Canal, Prater & East of the Danube, Schloss Schönbrunn & Around Ever since her first postgrad trip to Austria, Kerry has seized every available chance to return to Vienna. For this edition she spent several snowy, subzero weeks in the Austrian capital, wallow-ing in the richness of the city’s palaces and Klimt-crammed museums, waltzing
through hidden backstreets to sniff out the best restaurants and newest boutiques, and having her cake and eating it (again, and again) while road-testing scores of Vienna’s best coffee houses. Kerry has authored or coauthored some 20 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet’s Austria, Ger-many, France and Switzerland guidebooks. She tweets @kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com. Kerry also wrote the Coffee Houses & Cake Shops, Drinking & Nightlife, Shopping, Sports & Activities and Sleeping chapters, and the Salzburg section of Day Trips from Vienna.
Marc Di DucaDay Trips from Vienna Marc’s troublingly nostalgic obsession with the Austro-Hungarian Empire goes back over 25 years, during which time he has visited many of its most far-flung corners. Hence, a week-long border-hopping expedi-tion between three countries for the Day Trips from Vienna chapter was just the ticket, and saw Marc hiking trails deep into the snowbound Podyjí National Park, clambering through the vineyards of the Wachau and crossing the Danube more
times than a Viennese taxi driver. This is Marc’s 25th contribution for Lonely Planet.
Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet.com/members/anthonyhaywood
Read more about Kerry at: lonelyplanet.com/members/kerrychristiani
Read more about Marc at: lonelyplanet.com/members/madidu
OUR WRITERS
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day TwoThe Museum District & Neubau (p111)
M After sniffing morning air and perhaps a coffee kick-start in the
MuseumsQuartier, cross the road to the Kunsthistorisches Museum, where you can plan on spending a whole morning.
The Museum District & Neubau (p111)
R After several hours of grand masters, the afternoon is a good time to
change artistic direction and explore at least one of the museums in the MuseumsQuarti-er. The light, bright Leopold Museum is a good choice. MUMOK will be a complete contrast, with works that shock (and some consider shocking). Take time again to relax, either by strolling to Café Sperl between museums or resting up in the Museums-Quartier itself.
Stephansdom & the Historic Centre (p73)
N It’s hard to pull yourself away from the post-dinner cocktail lounge at
Motto am Fluss but explore the streets and bar scene in the evening in the centre, also hitting architectural delights such as Loos American Bar or Kruger’s American Bar.
Lunch Head back into the Museums-Quartier or deeper into neubau.
Dinner Motto am Fluss (p85): hip lounge ambience on the Danube Canal.
Day OneStephansdom & the Historic Centre (p73)
M Start your day with a visit to Stephansdom, taking a stroll through
the interior of the church and admiring the Domschatz cathedral treasures. For a bird’s-eye view of Vienna, climb the cathedral south tower to the platform. Alter-natively, take in one of the other cathedral sights, such as the Katakomben (cata-combs). Use the rest of the morning to stroll the narrow streets around the cathedral.
The Hofburg & Around (p58)
R Make your way along Graben and Kohlmarkt to the Hofburg, where
one of the nicest things to do is simply to wander through and soak up the grandeur of this Habsburg architectural masterpiece. Choose one or two of the museums here, such as the Kaiserappartements.
The Museum District & Neubau (p111)
N Especially on a warm summer evening, this public space framed
by historic and contemporary architecture is great for people-watching and enjoying an outdoor drink. Stroll off the drink on floodlit MariaTheresianPlatz or behind the MuseumsQuartier in cobblestone Spittelberg.
Lunch Deli food and a glass of wine at Zum schwarzen Kameel (p87).
Dinner Restaurant Herrlich (p69): traditional but classy Viennese cuisine.
Top Itineraries
18
Day FourSchloss Schönbrunn & Around (p173)
M Take a tour and walk in the grounds of Schloss Schönbrunn,
not forgetting to detour to Gloriette, with magnificent views over the palace grounds toward the city. In warm weather, loiter and stroll at leisure through the grounds and take side trails; otherwise, limit out-door meanderings to highlights.
Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt (p93)
R From Naschmarkt stroll to the Karlskirche and take the lift into
the dome where there’s a stunning fresco by Johann Michael Rottmayr. On reaching the upper landing stage, take the steps up the scaffolding to the top viewing plat-form. After the Karlskirche, you might feel like a coffee in the Cafe Drechsler, with its off-beat buzz and design interior.
Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt (p93)
N Each of Vienna’s Vorstädte (inner suburbs between the Ringstrasse
and the Gürtel) has a character of its own, and the two districts Margareten (the 5th district) and Mariahilf (the 6th), both flanking the trickling Wien river, offer plenty of nightlife and drinking opportuni-ties. Stroll, explore, sip and enjoy.
Lunch This is a good chance to head to the naschmarkt (p110).
Dinner an eatery in Margareten’s schlossquadrat, like silberwirt (p104).
Day ThreeSchloss Belvedere to the Canal (p145)
M Plan on spending the whole morn-ing here, dividing your time be-
tween the galleries and strolling along the clean lines of Schloss Belvedere’s French-style gardens. Lower Belvedere is a palatial temple to the gentry augmented by galleries for temporary exhibitions, while a walk through Upper Belvedere takes you through a who’s who of Austrian art.
Prater & East of the Danube (p162)
R After the opulence and art of Schloss Belvedere, the tone is some-
what lower in the Prater, Vienna’s play-ground of woods, meadows and – with the Würstelprater – sideshow attractions. The crowd screamer here, however, is the Ferris wheel, which takes you up into the lofty heights of Leopoldstadt.
Prater & East of the Danube (p162)
N Leopoldstadt is not overflowing with drinking and nightlife options,
but it has a fair sprinkling you can relax in. It’s also home to the Pratersauna, one of the city’s better clubs.
Lunch Meierei im stadtpark (p158) for possibly austria’s best goulash.
Dinner an eatery around Karmeliter-markt or nearby in Leopoldstadt.
Café Sperl (p104)
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