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Page 1: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler

VancouverVictoria and Whistler

£12.99 $14.95 USD$19.95 CAD

The Pacific Northwest at its Best!Take this Ulysses Travel Guide along as you stroll Vancouver’s magnificent Stanley Park, soak up the holiday-resort atmosphere of the West End, browse the art galleries, cycle along False Creek, and recharge your batteries at a café on Robson Street; then board the ferry for Victoria, whose legendary British flavour, bus-tling Inner Harbour, fabulous gardens and famous afternoon teas beckon. And, of course, a side trip to the world-famous mountain resort of Whistler is a must!

This travel guide includes:• More than a dozen walking, cycling and driving tours through

Vancouver and Victoria and a full chapter devoted to Whistler;

• Descriptions of all the attractions, star-rated so you can spot the must-sees at a glance;

• A plethora of hotels, restaurants, nightspots and shops for every taste and budget;

• More than 25 maps and city plans to help you find your way around.

The Ulysses Travel Guide Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler: get the best in the northwest!

www.ulyssesguides.comTravel better, enjoy more

ULYSSESULYSSES

ULYSSES

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Page 2: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Travel better,

enjoy more

www.ulyssesguides.com

A perfect balance of the practical and cultural information needed

to discover new horizons. Detailed and accurate

maps for intelligent exploration.

Thorough descriptions of restaurants and hotels in every price range to help you make the best choice, whatever your tastes and budget.

Travel Guides

Travel better, enjoy more

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Page 3: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Extrait de la publication

Page 4: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery
Page 5: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Extrait de la publication

Page 6: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Art Deco detail from the facade of the Marine Building in Vancouver. - Philippe Renault

Page 7: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Vancouver, Victoria and

Whistler5th edition

It has the combined excellenceof nature’s gift and man’s handwork.

Stephen Leacockon Vancouver, in

My Discovery of the West (1937)

Extrait de la publication

Page 8: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Offices

Canada: Ulysses Travel Guides, 4176 St. Denis Street, Montréal, Québec, H2W 2M5, F(514) 843-9447, W(514) 843-9448,[email protected], www.ulyssesguides.com

Europe: Les Guides de Voyage Ulysse SARL, 127 rue Amelot, 75011 Paris, France, F01 43 38 89 50, W01 43 38 89 52, [email protected], www.ulyssesguides.com

U.S.A.: Ulysses Travel Guides, 305 Madison Avenue, Suite 1166, New York, NY 10165, [email protected], www.ulyssesguides.com

Distributors

U.S.A.: Hunter Publishing, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818, F800-255-0343, W(732) 417-1744 or 0482, [email protected], www.hunterpublishing.com

Canada: Ulysses Travel Guides, 4176 St. Denis Street, Montréal, Québec, H2W 2M5, F(514) 843-9882, ext. 2232, W514-843-9448, [email protected], www.ulyssesguides.com

Great Britain and Ireland: Roundhouse Publishing, Millstone, Limers Lane, Northam, North Devon, EX39 2RG, F1 202 66 54 32, W1 202 66 62 19,[email protected]

Other countries: Ulysses Travel Guides, 4176 St. Denis Street,Montréal, Québec, H2W 2M5, F(514) 843-9882, ext.2232, W514-843-9448, [email protected], www.ulyssesguides.com

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or byany means, including photocopying, without the written permissionof the publisher.

Canadian Cataloguing-in-Publication Data (see p 3)© September 2005, Ulysses Travel Guides.All rights reserved.Printed in CanadaISBN 2-89464-763-8

Page 9: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Research and WritingPaul-ÉricDumontierJacqueline GrekinPierre LongnusFrançois RémillardCollaborationJennifer McMorranJean-FrançoisPothier

PublisherOlivier Gougeon

Production DirectorAndré Duchesne

Artistic DirectorPatrick Farei (Atoll)

TranslatorPierre Ledoux

Copy EditorPierre Ledoux

Editing AssistantsPierre Ledoux David Sirois

CartographerPascal BietDavid Sirois

Computer GraphicsPascal BietMarie-FranceDenis

PhotographyCoverInmagine/PhotoDiscInside pagesWalter BibikowFairmont Hotels& ResortsPierre LongnusSean O’NeillPhilippe Renault

IllustratorsPascal BietVincentDesruisseauxMyriam GagnéLorette Pierson

Acknowledgements:

We wish to thank Tourism Vancouver, Tourism Victoria andTourism Whistler.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government ofCanada through the Book Publishing Industry DevelopmentProgram (BPIDP) for our publishing activities.

We would also like to thank SODEC (Québec) for its financialsupport.

Library and Archives CanadaCataloguing in Publication

Main entry under title:

Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler

5th ed.(Ulysses Travel Guide)Translation of: Vancouver, Victoria et WhistlerPreviously published as: Vancouver and Victoria.Includes index.

ISBN 2-89464-763-8

1. Vancouver (B.-C.) – Guidebooks. 2. Victoria (B.-C.) – Guidebooks. 3. Whistler (B.-C.) – Guidebooks.

1. Title II. Title: Vancouver and Victoria. I1I. Series.

FC3847.18.V35513 2005 917.11'33044 C2005-941432-4

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Page 10: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Table of Contents

Portrait . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Geography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12History and Economic Development . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Contemporary Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Population . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Practical Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Entrance Formalities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Embassies and Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Tourist Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Driving in British Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Finding Your Way Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Guided Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Emergencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Luggage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Jet Lag and Travel Sickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Money and Banking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Taxes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Tipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Exploring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Responsible Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Travelling with Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Mail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Telecommunications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

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Page 11: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Table of Contents (continued)

Practical Information (continued)Holidays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Business Hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Travellers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Advice for Smokers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Time Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Illegal Drugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Laundromats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Newspapers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Exploring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214

Victoria and Surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Exploring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Parks and Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Exploring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284

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The information contained in this guide was correct at presstime. However, mistakes can slip in, omissions are alwayspossible, attractions and establishments can move or close,etc. The authors and publisher hereby disclaim any liability forloss or damage resulting from omissions or errors.

We value your comments, corrections and suggestions, asthey allow us to keep each guide up to date. The best contri-butions will be rewarded with a free book from Ulysses TravelGuides. All you have to do is write us at the following addressand indicate which title you would be interested in receiving.

Ulysses Travel Guides

4176 St. Denis StreetMontréal, QuébecCanada H2W 2M5

305 Madison AvenueSuite 1166, New York

NY 10165

www.ulyssesguides.com

Write to Us

Map Symbols

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Page 13: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

List of Maps

Colour mapsVancouver and Surroundings (Location of tours) . . . I and IIVancouver, Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IIIVictoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IV

Average Daily Highs and Lows - Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . 53British Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Table of Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Vancouver Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Where are Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler? . . . . . . . . . 9Vancouver and Surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

Burrard Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Chinatown, Downtown Eastside and East Vancouver . . . 81Downtown

attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

False Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Gastown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Richmond and Steveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Shaughnessy and Surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Stanley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105West End

attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125enlargement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

Victoria and SurroundingsFrom Victoria to the West Coast Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Inner Harbour and Old Town

attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263

Saanich Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Scenic Marine Drive - east . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Scenic Marine Drive - west . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237

Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Whistler Village and Village North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274

Page 14: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Symbols

/ Air conditioning

bkfst incl. Breakfast included

W Fax number

T Fireplace

@ Fitness centre

K Kitchenette

Pets allowed

. Pool

pb Private bathroom

ú Refrigerator

U Restaurant

- Sauna

sb Shared bathroom

� Spa

F Telephone number

Ulysses’ favourite

Ç W hirpool

Attraction ClassificationÚ InterestingÚÚ W orth a visitÚÚÚ Not to be missed

Hotel ClassificationUnless otherwise indicated, the prices in this guide are for one standard

room, double occupancy in high season.

$ less than 50$$$ 50$ to 100$$$$ 101$ to 150$$$$$ 151$ to 200$$$$$$ more than 200$

Restaurant ClassificationUnless otherwise indicated, the prices in this guide are for one person,

not including drinks, taxes and tip.

$ less than 15$$$ 15$ to 25$$$$ 26$ to 50$$$$$ more than 50$

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

Page 15: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Where are

Vancouver,

Victoria and

Whistler?

Where are

Vancouver,

Victoria and

Whistler?

Capital:

Population:

Area:

Currency:

Victoria

4,200,000 inhab.

950,000 km²

Canadian dollar

British Columbia

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Page 17: Victoria and Whistler...Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler 5th edition It has the combined excellence of nature’s gift and man’s handwork. Stephen Leacock on Vancouver, in My Discovery

Portrait

Atruly modern city, Vancouver’s tall glass towers nonethelessseem dwarfed by the mighty mountains and seathat surround them.

Once one of the most iso-lated reaches on the

planet, over the last century thecity has developed close tieswith the nations of the largestocean on Earth, and is fast be-coming the multicultural me-tropolis of the Pacific Rim.

A lthough its history is tied tothe development of British

Columbia’s natural resources,most residents were lured hereby the magnificent setting andthe climate, which is remarkablymild for a country known for itsbitter winters and stifling sum-mers. Vancouver, where Asiameets America, is a city wellworth discovering.

No trip to Vancouver wouldbe complete without a

side trip to Victoria (and viceversa!). If Vancouver is the “cityof glass” (as Vancouver writerDouglas Coupland calls it), thenVictoria most certainly deservesits “city of gardens” moniker.However, visitors might be

tempted to call it the “city ofscones.” Its British character islegendary, from its afternoonteas to its tartan shops and waxmuseum—home to many aroyal family member, or rea-sonable facsimile thereof. ButBritish Columbia’s capital citycan also lay claim to an identity

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12 Portrait

all its own: a magnificent seasidelocation, a mild, sunny climate,a well-preserved Old Townand Inner Harbour, more thanits fair share of handsome Victo-rian buildings, and a very man-ageable size that makes sight-seeing a sheer pleasure.

To complete your triumvirateof B.C. must-sees, head

120km north from Vancouverto the ski mecca of Whistler,known world-wide for its fash-ionable restaurants and first-class lodgings, in addition togreat skiing and year-round out-door activities. Its permanentresident population may be lessthan 10,000, but its 900,000winter visitors and 1.2 millionsummer visitors support some115 hotels and close to 100restaurants and bars—not badfor a town that had no roads,electricity or sewer system 40years ago! While skiing is un-doubtedly its major draw today,the fabulously scenic trip thatleads there along the Sea to SkiHighway is an attraction in itself.

Geography

Canada’s West Coast, boundedby the 49th parallel to the southand the Alaskan border to thenorth, is dominated by theCoast Mountains range, a chain

of peaks west of the Rockiesthat form an almost unbrokenbarrier between the Pacific andthe hinterland. The vast delta ofthe Fraser River does break it,thus enabling human habitation;Vancouver was founded in thisfavourable location. The city isnow the third largest in Canada,with a population of more than2 million in the metropolitanarea. It is also the only majorcity in the country that faces thePacific.

Pacific-minded though it is, Van-couver does not actually faceright onto the ocean, but is sep-arated from the sea by Vancou-ver Island, where Victoria, thecapital of British Columbia, islocated. Vancouver, the prov-ince’s economic hub, lies onthe Strait of Georgia, an arm ofthe sea separating VancouverIsland from the mainland. Itspopulation is scattered acrosstwo peninsulas formed byBurrard Inlet to the north andFalse Creek to the south.

Point Grey, the larger andmore southerly end, is home tothe University of British Colum-bia and some sprawling resi-dential neighbourhoods. Onthe smaller point to the north,visitors will discover a strikingcontrast between the east end,with its cluster of downtownskyscrapers, and the west end,which is occupied by the lovely,unspoiled woodlands of StanleyPark. The city’s location, sur-rounded by water and con-nected to the rest of the coun-try by bridges and ferries, hasled to a steady increase in theprice of land in the centre, and

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History and Economic Development 13

to major traffic problems forcommuters from the city’s sub-urbs and satellite towns. Finally,it is worth noting that Vancou-ver is only about 30km fromthe U.S. border (and less than200km north of Seattle).

Vancouver boasts an exception-ally mild climate, with averagetemperatures of 3EC in Januaryand 17EC in July. Comparethese averages to those of To-ronto, which experiences adaily mean temperature of-4.5EC in January and 22.1ECin July. There is very little snow,though there is a lot of rain (an-nual average: 1,167mm over164 days of precipitation, com-pared to 819mm over 139days in Toronto) and the sum-mers are temperate and sunny.The clouds that form over theocean are blown inland bywesterly winds. When they hitthe Coast Mountains, theycause precipitations and gener-ally grey weather.

While daily mean temperaturesin Victoria are almost identicalto those in Vancouver, the capi-tal city receives significantly lessprecipitation (153 days) andboasts more annual hours ofsunshine (2,082) than Vancou-ver (1919). Victoria is, in fact,the sunniest spot in the prov-ince.

Plants thrive in this wet climate.The wide variety of trees andflowers make Vancouver andVictoria vast, luxuriant gardenswhere everything seems togrow bigger and greener thananywhere else in Canada. Not

only are there species indige-nous to the temperate rain for-est (the northern counterpart ofthe tropical forest), like enor-mous Douglas firs, red cedars,giant thujas, and western hem-locks, but over the decadescountless European and Asianplants have been imported tosatisfy the local residents’ pas-sion for gardening. The numer-ous private and public orna-mental gardens in and aroundVancouver and Victoria are thusadorned with North American,European and Asian species.Victoria is, in fact, known as the“city of gardens” and the “gar-den capital of Canada.”

History

and Economic

Development

Aboriginal Peoples

Over 10,000 years ago, severaltribes of Aboriginal peoplestravelled across the Bering Strait

Magnolia

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14 Portrait

from Asia before scatteringacross North America (theirhistory all but disappeared alongwith the ice that once covereda large part of the northernhemisphere). They formed thenumerous Aboriginal nationsand pre-Columbian civilizationsof this continent. There is somedoubt, however, as to whetheror not Aboriginal civilization onthe West Coast originated withthese vast waves of immigra-tion. According to one theory,the ancestors of the WestCoast First Nations arrivedmore recently (around3000 BC) from islands in thePacific. Proponents of this hy-pothesis base their argumenton the Aboriginal peoples’ art,traditions and spoken lan-guages, which are similar tothose of the indigenous peoplesof the Pacific islands.

When the first Europeans ar-rived here in the late 18th cen-tury, the region that would be-come Vancouver was inhabitedby the Salish (the other Aborigi-nal language families on the Pa-cific coast are Haida, Tsimshian,Tlingit, Nootka-Kwakiutl andBella Coola). Like the otherFirst Nations, the Salish fa-voured this region for its re-markably mild climate andabundance of orcas, salmon,seals, fruit and other resources.This beneficial environment,combined with the natural bar-rier formed by the nearbymountains, enabled the coastalcommunities to thrive. Notonly were their populationsquite large, but they were alsosignificantly denser than that of

other Aboriginal nations in cen-tral and eastern Canada.

In 1820 there were some25,000 Salish living on theshores of the Fraser River, fromits mouth south of Vancouverall the way up into the Rockies.Like other First Nations, theSalish were sedentary and livedin villages of red cedarlonghouses. They traded withother nations along the coastduring potlatches, festive cere-monies lasting weeks on endand marked by the exchange ofgifts.

Belated Exploration

The 18th century saw an in-crease in exploration and colo-nization all over the world asEuropean sea powers scouredthe planet for natural riches andnew territories. The Africanshores were well charted, andno stone had been left un-turned on the east coast ofNorth America. There was,however, an immense area thatstill seemed inaccessible: thefar-off and mysterious Pacific

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Travel better,

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www.ulyssesguides.com

A perfect balance of the practical and cultural information needed

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maps for intelligent exploration.

Thorough descriptions of restaurants and hotels in every price range to help you make the best choice, whatever your tastes and budget.

Travel Guides

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Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler

VancouverVictoria and Whistler

£12.99 $14.95 USD$19.95 CAD

The Pacific Northwest at its Best!Take this Ulysses Travel Guide along as you stroll Vancouver’s magnificent Stanley Park, soak up the holiday-resort atmosphere of the West End, browse the art galleries, cycle along False Creek, and recharge your batteries at a café on Robson Street; then board the ferry for Victoria, whose legendary British flavour, bus-tling Inner Harbour, fabulous gardens and famous afternoon teas beckon. And, of course, a side trip to the world-famous mountain resort of Whistler is a must!

This travel guide includes:• More than a dozen walking, cycling and driving tours through

Vancouver and Victoria and a full chapter devoted to Whistler;

• Descriptions of all the attractions, star-rated so you can spot the must-sees at a glance;

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• More than 25 maps and city plans to help you find your way around.

The Ulysses Travel Guide Vancouver, Victoria and Whistler: get the best in the northwest!

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