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Control Methods for Individual Vertebrate Pests Jeanette Stehr-Green and Judy English, Washington State University (WSU) certified Clallam County Master Gardeners Vertebrate and Identifying damage Recommended methods of control Birds: Droppings; deep triangular peck holes or slashes in larger fruit; smaller fruit eaten whole Exclusion (netting that reaches ground or is gathered around trunk) Scare tactics (must be frequently changed) Chemical repellants (active ingredient methyl anthranilate [food grade]) Cats: Plants uprooted; feces buried in soil Exclusion (chicken wire at ground level or just below soil through which plants can grow; mulching with stone or pebbles; single or double strands of electric fence at low voltage) Resistant plantings (Rue? Marigolds?) Scare tactics (motion-activated sprinklers, dogs) Deer and Elk: Leaves and twigs ripped from plants leaving a ragged edge; annuals pulled out of the ground; damage to larger trees extending only to about 8 feet; broken branches and torn bark from animal rubbing tree trunk (~4 feet high) Exclusion (8 foot fence around garden; lower fences effective if slanted outward, double, or made of solid material; fencing individual plants) Scare tactics (must be frequently changed) Chemical repellants Resistant plants (wdfw.wa.gov/living/deer.html) (however, young and hungry deer will nibble on anything) Hunting Dogs: Digging up plants; holes in lawn or garden Exclusion (fencing of entire garden, fencing of individual plants, chicken wire at ground level, mulch that is uncomfortable to walk on) Resistant plantings (vigorous plants that resist breakage; thorned or prickly bushes but avoid long thorns) Important to explore reason for garden damage (dog in need of attention and exercise; digging for prey; trying to escape to mate) Moles*: Large, volcano-like mole-hills that they push up periodically along their tunnel systems; probably do not intentionally damage plants; plant damage due to voles which often use the mole’s tunnel systems Exclusion (wire mesh bottoms on raised beds and wire mesh baskets around bulbs or roots of plant) Scare tactics (watch dog or cat) Chemical repellants (castor oil-based repellants effective in Eastern Washington species but not proven on Western Washington species) Trapping (must be buried along active runways) Poisons (hard, pelletized baits don’t work; newer gel and worm-shaped baits that better mimic natural food sources more promising) Hunting or otherwise killing (observing active digging on molehill, stunning, and digging down to catch animal)

Vertebrate pests

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Vertebrate pests chart from Master Gardeners

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Page 1: Vertebrate pests

Control Methods for Individual Vertebrate PestsJeanette Stehr-Green and Judy English, Washington State University (WSU) certified Clallam County Master Gardeners

Vertebrate and Identifying damage Recommended methods of controlBirds: Droppings; deep triangular peck holes or slashes in larger fruit; smaller fruit eaten whole

− Exclusion (netting that reaches ground or is gathered around trunk)− Scare tactics (must be frequently changed)− Chemical repellants (active ingredient methyl anthranilate [food grade])

Cats: Plants uprooted; feces buried in soil − Exclusion (chicken wire at ground level or just below soil through which plants can grow; mulching with stone or pebbles; single or double strands of electric fence at low voltage)

− Resistant plantings (Rue? Marigolds?)− Scare tactics (motion-activated sprinklers, dogs)

Deer and Elk: Leaves and twigs ripped from plants leaving a ragged edge; annuals pulled out of the ground; damage to larger trees extending only to about 8 feet; broken branches and torn bark from animal rubbing tree trunk (~4 feet high)

− Exclusion (8 foot fence around garden; lower fences effective if slanted outward, double, or made of solid material; fencing individual plants)

− Scare tactics (must be frequently changed)− Chemical repellants− Resistant plants (wdfw.wa.gov/living/deer.html) (however, young and

hungry deer will nibble on anything)− Hunting

Dogs: Digging up plants; holes in lawn or garden

− Exclusion (fencing of entire garden, fencing of individual plants, chicken wire at ground level, mulch that is uncomfortable to walk on)

− Resistant plantings (vigorous plants that resist breakage; thorned or prickly bushes but avoid long thorns)

− Important to explore reason for garden damage (dog in need of attention and exercise; digging for prey; trying to escape to mate)

Moles*: Large, volcano-like mole-hills that they push up periodically along their tunnel systems; probably do not intentionally damage plants; plant damage due to voles which often use the mole’s tunnel systems

− Exclusion (wire mesh bottoms on raised beds and wire mesh baskets around bulbs or roots of plant)

− Scare tactics (watch dog or cat)− Chemical repellants (castor oil-based repellants effective in Eastern

Washington species but not proven on Western Washington species)− Trapping (must be buried along active runways)− Poisons (hard, pelletized baits don’t work; newer gel and worm-shaped

baits that better mimic natural food sources more promising)− Hunting or otherwise killing (observing active digging on molehill,

stunning, and digging down to catch animal)

Page 2: Vertebrate pests

Mountain Beavers: Damages plant by clipping off stems and branches, leaving 2 inch stubs; destroys more vegetation than it eats; stacks cut vegetation near burrows

− Exclusion (fencing selected plants; fencing entire yard with rabbit-proof fence; two wire electric fence)

− Trapping

Rabbits: Twigs on trees and shrubs clipped cleanly at a 45 degree angle; bark on lower stems and branches gnawed away, leaving parallel grooves in the wood

− Exclusion (chicken wire fence at least two feet high with bottom edge tight against ground or buried a few inches; hardware cloth mesh cylinders; commercial tree wraps)

− Removal of shelter and hiding places− Hunting (Rabbits are classified as game animals; therefore, regulations

regarding hunting and trapping are in place.)

Raccoons: Attack fruit, nuts, and vegetable crops

− Exclusion (with two-strand electric fence with the first wire about 6 inches from the ground and the second wire 6 inches higher; rodent guards on trunks of fruit trees)

− Trapping

Rats and Mice: Trails through vegetation; gnawing at base of trees/shrubs

− Removal of wood piles, dense vegetation, and rubbish around garden− Removal of food sources− Baited traps (mouse favorite: mix of peanut butter and rolled oats)

Tree squirrels: Attack fruit, nuts, and vegetable crops; strip, eat bark from tree

− Exclusion (rodent-guards on trunks of fruit trees)− Chemical repellants− Cage trapping− Hunt but native squirrels protected by law

Voles: Gnawed roots and root crops (small grooves left by the 2 large front teeth); girdling of tree trunks extending to just above soil line; if other food unavailable will girdle trees and eat bark

− Removal of shelter and hiding places− Trapping (mousetraps baited with peanut butter or pieces of apple set in

their runs)− Poisons (rodenticides)

* Townsend or Pacific mole has litters of three or four in April; at 3-4 weeks old young moles leave nest for own territory; lifespan about 3 years

6/01/2015