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VERSACE SHIRTS treading slowly but surely in Indian marketsA Case Study
This case, prepared jointly by Prof Sujit Sengupta, Professor (Marketing) and Dr Surabhi Goyal, Associate Professor at IILM, Lodhi Road, New Delhi, was utilized for class room discussion in the Foundations Module – Marketing Management.
It attempts to explain the macro and micro factors that help a multinational luxury brand to enter a price sensitive market like India.
Versace, a unique Italian fashion house was started by an Italian clothier, Gianni Versace in 1978. After the death of Gianni Versace, his sister, Ms. Donatella Versace stepped in as the Creative Director at Versace and his elder brother Santo, Versace became its Chief Executive Officer. Today it is known globally as one of the most luxurious and stylish labels in the fashion industry. Its casual clothing line focuses on informal clothing: highend denim and classic Gianni Versace print shirts. Its latest collection of Designer’s menswear consists of everything from faded and distressed jeans to tightfitting shirts and professional suits. The lines are created and produced via other designer companies, which are in constant communication with the Versace Group. These clothing incorporate elements of the signature Gianni Versace line, while focusing on current seasonal trends. This label offers an exclusive combination of rugged and professional attire to suit the needs of a wider range of men. Whether you’re a high profile businessman or a trendy teenager wishing to enhance their physical appearance, there’s a place in the Versace label for you.
2. Versace Collection is aimed at a younger audience, with varied economic demographics. Men and women enjoy the diversity within the label and are fascinated by the incredible styles and designs in each line. Globally, Versace competes with brands such as Armani, Fendi and Tommy Hilfiger and is considered one of the higherend labels in the industry which translates into higher selling prices for their elegant designs. A sweat shirt could cost approximately $400 and sweaters anywhere from $300. This line is distributed through 56 boutiques and flagship stores, and 1800 multibrand points of sale, including Internetbased shops across the globe. 3. Fashion trends in India are seen to be progressively influenced by the Western styles of clothing and other fashion accessories, leading to a high growth for the Indian market in the upcoming years. In fact, it has been observed in recent years that the fashion industry has started showcasing its work at ramp shows such as Indian Fashion Week to promote Indian hauteur couture. Typically, the Indian luxury consumer can be classified as:
• Urbane• High disposable income• Well qualified• Knowledgeable and aware of luxury market• Widely traveled.
4. With the Government promoting Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in Single Brand retail, this US$ 72 Billion (in terms of sales) Versace Group has entered the Indian market, with a distribution tieup with Pall Mall, a Delhibased menswear retailer. It has already begun retailing Versace Sports' casual trousers, Tshirts and jackets which are priced between Rs 5,000 and Rs 15,000. Recognizing that the luxury sportswear market in India is minuscule, the company does not expect big volumes from the Versace Sports range yet. With Versace Sports, the Italian company is testing the domestic market with other products in their range.
5. The menswear market in India has immense potential since there are a few strong brands in relation to the potential the country has. There is a dearth in organized manufacturing and also washing and dyeing of the fabric. Eventually, companies with a long term philosophy and focus on quality would have great future both in the domestic as well as in the international markets. With new investments forthcoming in shirting fabrics manufacturing by the companies like Raymond, Monti, Hemmerle and others, the International Brands have lined up quality suppliers and with the availability from these mills, it is possible to satisfy the emerging trend in the fashion market.
6. The table below gives an indication of consumer expenditure on clothing and footwear from 1995 2007.
Rs. Billions
1995 2000 2002 2004 2006 2007
Clothing 765.6 951.6 897.0 983.3 1,080.1 1,143.2
Footwear 89.2 122.5 101.1 113.6 128.6 134.1
TOTAL 854.7 1.074.1 998.1 1,096.8 1,208.7 1,277.2
Indian luxury market statistics: 2006 (US $) Luxury Products: $ 500 million Luxury Services: $ 953 million Luxury Assets: $ 2.9 billion Total Luxury market Size: $ 4.3 billion
7. Even as there is a sense of heightened optimism about the luxury brands’ market in India, the fact is the country represents a very small percentage of the entire global market for luxury brands. The global market stood at US $ 220 billion in 2007. Foreign luxury brands have realized that India is a nascent luxury market, with many challenges to overcome. The global luxury brands have realized the potential and are setting up outlets in India. If one looks at the growth projections, one can expect a huge upsurge of luxury brands establishing a presence in India.
8. Market Characteristics • Highly dynamic designs changing frequently • Brand consciousness catching onfocus on quality, finish; price secondary a factor. • Increasing competition in the branded segment. • Some major players target different customer segments within the same product line with
different product offerings.
• Active Trade Channel 4 types of channels used : Franchises (Benetton)/ Exclusive stores (Arvind Mills); Outright Sales to retailers (Louis Philippe); Companyowned stores (Color plus); Normal 3 tier chain through stockists, distributors, retailers (Louis Philippe). Some players opt for multiple channels also (Louis Phillip, Color plus)
• Significant expenditure on marketing / brand building for branded segment • In the next twothree years a large number of malls are expected to come up which is an
unprecedented development. It is a unique phase in the urban India retailing landscape. The branded shirts have started having presence in all the key malls.
• A major competitor has tied up with the Murjani Group to launch Tommy Hilfiger in India.
9. Raw Material used in branded shirts
Cotton, a key input is available in abundance in the country (80% of market is for cotton garments). high quality fabrics also imported under a licensing scheme. The biggest plus point for the Indian industry in apparels is the availability of indigenous raw material with large opportunity for value advantage like from cotton to yarn, yarn to fabrics, fabrics to garment. With production of the right quality, nothing can stop the Indian industry from occupying the top spot in the world's fashion industry. The Indian players are gradually becoming innovative in design ideas to keep pace with the upcoming competition.
10. Industry Structure
• Highly fragmented; Market dominated by unorganized sector (>60%) over 50,000 units in operation : each has typically 1520 machines • Smaller players also active in local and overseas markets • Larger players positioned in branded segments Arvind Mills, Madura Coats, J K Synthetics. • Concentration of units in Tirupur (Tamil Nadu) major centre for cotton and knitted garments,(exports and domestic); also at Bangalore, Chennai Mumbai and N Delhi
11. The Indian market is different from the international market. For the international market, the shirt is an innerwear item of clothing. But in India, it is the outerwear garment. Again, the brand's sharp knowledge of the Indian consumer over 15 years of consumer bonding and market research ensures that Indian brand has superior distribution strengths and is accepted well even in multibrand outlets. Some premium brands like Louis Philippe is rapidly redefining consumer experience with its chain of exclusive flagship stores in the top cities in the country. Louis Philippe has managed to catch the attention of the up market Indian shirt buyer in the very first year of its debut (1989). The shirts were made from the finest millmade cotton fabrics in designs inspired by the latest international trends. The shirts were mitered lines making up stripes and checks were all matched to perfection on all the different parts of the garment. This was a first for the Indian market. Side seams were doublestitched for reinforcement. The shirts used international quality of trims, imported interlining (which did not bubble or lose shape even after repeated washes) and imported buttons. Embellished with the Louis Philippe Crest embroidered on the cuff, it was a truly international shirt. The brand has created a superpremium segment in the readymade apparel industry.
12. House hold incomes in India are progressively increasing and income pyramid is changing as income grows. The share of incomes of the middle class globally will rise from less than 30% today to more than 80% by 2025. According to estimates by Mckinsey, the consumption will quadruple in the next 20 years. In the light of this background huge growth in the coming years can be expected in the fashion product categories from the middle class and those in the higher income bracket.
13. Therefore, Versace entry may be a welcome change for Indian customers but Versace needs to study the market well because many global brands have come and gone because of the limitations of the market size.
Questions for Discussion
1. What factors will influence the entry of Versace to India and its future growth trajectory?
2. Critically examine the value proposition of Versace for a price sensitive market in India? Would you advise Versace to enter the middle class market? If yes, explain the new marketing mix to address the emerging segment.
3. On which element (s) of marketing mix must Versace rework to follow the marketing tenet 'Think global and act local'?