Venice and Beyond - Luxury Link · Piazza San Polo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. For dinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina. San Polo One of the most famous squares in

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stevebrownd50

Venice and Beyond

Florence, Rome, Venice, 7 Days

Table of contents:Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 6

My List 28

Florence Snapshot 29

Rome Snapshot 38

Venice Snapshot 44

http://www.nileguide.com/destination/venice/trips/venice-and-beyond/2899

Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: This is your week in Italy and making Veniceyour home base is a step toward understanding what makes Italyso special. After seven days in the land where "si" is heard youmay be writing sonnets and performing them in your cubicle towhomever may care to listen. Explore Venice and spend a day inFlorence and Rome.

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - VeniceDAY NOTE: When you arrive in Venice and have consulted yourmap, you may be tempted to drag your luggage to your hotel.If you ignore the rest of my itinerary and spend the rest of yourtime in your hotel room, then please take my advice this once andhigher a water taxi. It is cool, very Venetian, and you will arrive atyour hotel in style. Once you start wandering the streets and seesome poor soul wrestling a Samsonite over the top of the RialtoBridge you will understand what I mean. You are checked-in andready to explore. Your first stop in Venice must be Piazza SanMarco. Climb to the top of the Campanile for great views and thenvisit the Basilica di San Marco and the Galleria of San Marco.Before dinner at La Furatola walk to the Rialto Bridge.

Basilica di San MarcoFamous Basilicas

San Marco CampanilePanoramic view of the city

Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oro eTesoroVenetian-Byzantine goldsmiths

Ponte di RialtoHistoric Grand Canal Bridge

La FuratolaCreative fish dishes

Hotel RialtoAdjacent to the Rialto Bridge

Day 2 - VeniceDAY NOTE: Your second day starts with a tour of Murano andVenetian glass. In the afternoon if you have time walk along thewater toward the Giardini Pubblici to work up an appetite fordinner at Due Colonne.

MuranoHome of the famous glassware

Museo Vetrario - MuranoMurano glass

Ercole MorettiGlassware

Museo CorrerVenetian Paintings

Due ColonneQuiet with Outdoor Tables


Day 3 - Florence, RomeDAY NOTE: Day three is an express tour of Florence. You willhave to catch an early train from Venice to Florence to get it alldone in Florence. Schedule an entry time at the Galleria degliUffizi to avoid a longer wait. After the Uffizi visit the PalazzoVecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi both in Piazza della Signoria.Your afternoon will begin at the Piazza del Duomo with a visitto the Battistero, the Cathedral, and the Campanile di Giotto.Nearby is the Church Orsanmichele. Before leaving on a trainfor Rome be sure to visit the Ponte Vecchio. A Eurostar fromFlorence to Rome will arrive in less than two hours. Once youhave checked-in at your hotel go for dinner at the Vecchia Romada Severino il Pugliese.

Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries)World-Renowned Art Collection

Palazzo Vecchio (Museo)Historical building

Loggia dei LanziGreat sculptures of the Renaissance.

Piazza del DuomoWhere the Heart of Florence lies.

BattisteroRoman baptistery

Campanile di GiottoDecorative bell tower


restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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OrsanmicheleMedieval Grain Market

Vecchia Roma da Severino il PuglieseIn true Pugliese tradition

BledHistoric villa in nice central location

Day 4 - Rome, VeniceDAY NOTE: No city in Italy can really be seen in one day andRome is at the top of this list. I have done Rome in one day manytimes with friends and family. Stay focused and drink lots of water.You need to see as much of this city as you can in the time thatyou have. Rome is my favorite big city in Italy and it is chockfull of things to see. From your hotel take the Metro to Piazzadi Spagna. From there work your way to the Fontana di Trevi.As you navigate the streets toward the Panteon, stop and seeSant’Ignazio di Loyola and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Marvelat the Panteon, built nearly a millennium before the Battistero inFlorence, with techniques that were far beyond those available tothe Florentines in the Middle Ages. Your next stop is my favoritepiazza on the Italian peninsula, Piazza Navona. Near the piazzais another church well worth visiting, San Luigi dei Francesi. Onthe way to visit the Piazza del Campidoglio try to find the Fontanadelle Tartarughe. Between the Campidoglio and the Coliseum isthe Foro Romano. Time permitting, walk along the Tiber Riverto St. Peter’s Basilica, otherwise take a cab or take the Metro.After you have visited St. Peter’s you can catch a Metro to getback to Termini, collect your luggage and catch a Eurostar backto Venice.

Piazza di SpagnaMeeting at the Steps

Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi)Throw a coin in the fountain...

Fontana delle TartarugheOne of the Renaissance's little gems

San Luigi dei FrancesiWorks of art treasure chest

Piazza NavonaRome's Favorite Piazza

Fontana dei Quattro FiumiThe iniquity of the people

Sant'Ignazio di LoyolaRemembering the saint founder

The PantheonMagnificent dome

Santa Maria Sopra MinervaA magnificent church

Piazza del CampidoglioMichelangelo's idea

The Colosseum (Colosseo)The symbol of Rome and the Empire's Largest Arena

Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter'sBasilica)The home of Catholicism


Day 5 - VeniceDAY NOTE: After your two day excursion to Florence and Romeyou are most likely in need of an easy day. To recuperate yourenergy take a short boat ride over to visit the Chiesa di S. GiorgioMaggiore. Near Piazza San Marco and your hotel you can visitthe Palazzo Ducale and see the Ponte dei Sospiri. For dinner tryDa Remigio. Whenever I go to Venice I always have pasta al neroseppia, at least once.

Chiesa di S. Giorgio MaggiorePalladian church

Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri)Legendary Bridge

Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale)Palace of Venetian Governors

Da RemigioExcellent fish and risottos


restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 6 - VeniceDAY NOTE: In the morning visit the Galleria dell’AccademiaMuseum. For the afternoon visit the Chiesa di San Salvador,Piazza San Polo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. Fordinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina.

San PoloOne of the most famous squares in Venice

Chiesa di San Salvador7th-Century Church

Chiesa di S.Nicola da TolentinoLate fifteenth century church

Galleria dell'AccademiaCollection of Venetian Art

Alla PatatinaSmall Osteria


Day 7 - VeniceDAY NOTE: For you last day in Venice you will undoubtedly goto Piazza San Marco for last minute photos. Before you leavetoday go over to visit to out-of-the-way churches, Santa Maria deiDerelitti and San Francesco della Vigna. Also, near Piazza SanMarco is another church worth visiting, Santa Maria del Giglio. Ifyou have time left in the day visit the Palazzo Labia.

Palazzo Labia - Salone del TiepoloWorks by Tiepolo

San Francesco della VignaPalladian facade

Santa Maria dei Derelitti16th-century church

Santa Maria del Giglio o ZobenigoBaroque façade

Antica BessettaGood fish and excellent wine

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Day 1 - VeniceQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: When you arrive in Venice and have consulted your map, you may be tempted to drag your luggage to your hotel. If youignore the rest of my itinerary and spend the rest of your time in your hotel room, then please take my advice this once and higher awater taxi. It is cool, very Venetian, and you will arrive at your hotel in style. Once you start wandering the streets and see some poorsoul wrestling a Samsonite over the top of the Rialto Bridge you will understand what I mean. You are checked-in and ready to explore.Your first stop in Venice must be Piazza San Marco. Climb to the top of the Campanile for great views and then visit the Basilica di SanMarco and the Galleria of San Marco. Before dinner at La Furatola walk to the Rialto Bridge.

contact:tel: +39 0412413817fax: +39 41 520 8289http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/

location:San Marco 328Venice 30124

hours:Summer: M- Sa 9:30a-5:30p,Su 2p-5:30p, Winter: M-Sa10a-4p, Su 2p-6p

1 Basilica di San Marco

DESCRIPTION: Even before arriving in front of the Byzantinestyled Basilica di San Marco, her many magnificent domescan be seen from afar announcing their presence and statusin Venice. The story goes, that the remains of St. Mark werebrought, or stolen – depending on your point of view, by theVenetians from Alexandria to rest in this elaborate burial placeback in the 9th century. On closer observation, you will noticenot all of the columns on the Basilica di San Marco are thesame (some green marble, others not) due to trading withincoming merchants for the materials to build and decoratethis amazing edifice. History throughout the centuries is woveninto the world-wide known Basilica di San Marco, including theoriginally looted Bronze horses being stolen by Napoleon, andthen returned again in 1815. © NileGuide

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Day 1 - continued...

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contact:tel: (+39) 041 241 3817fax: +39 041 270 8334http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/ita/index.bsm


hours:Oct1-Mar31: daily9.45a-4.30p; Apr1-Sep31daily: 9.45a-5p

2 San Marco Campanile

DESCRIPTION: Located in the very same Piazza San Marco, for which itis named after, the San Marco Campanile, or St. Mark's Bell tower, soars98.5 meters high with spectacular panoramic views of the orange rooftopsof Venice and on a clear day, the snow-capped Alps seem at your veryfingertips. After paying at the entrance, one of the biggest elevators you'llfind in Italy (a normal sized elevator for Americans) swiftly brings you upthe San Marco Campanile to the observatory area where wind speedsseem to increase exponentially. Originally constructed in 1173, the SanMarco Campanile has had many varied functions throughout the yearssuch as a lighthouse for incoming ships on the lagoon, a means of tyingup prisoners for torture during Medieval times, and an observatory forGalileo to demonstrate his telescope in 1609. After suddenly collapsingin 1902, the San Marco Campanile was reconstructed from its remainingbase, a collection of marble sculpted storyboards called La Loggetta, andhas been firmly standing since its re-inauguration in 1912. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: +39 41 522 5205

location:Piazza San MarcoVenice 30124

hours:NNov-Mar, M-F 9.45a-4.30p,Apr-Oct, M-F 9.45a-5.30p,Weekends, Holdays 2p-4p

3 Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oroe Tesoro

DESCRIPTION: It is not known for certain who made themid-14th-century Golden Altar Piece. It is a masterpiece ofengraving that uses Byzantine ancient enamels, which originatefrom the pillage of Byzantium in 1204. The Treasure of SanMarco should not be missed. A large part was melted downto mint money, but what remains can satisfy the curiosity ofeven the most demanding visitor, from an artistic and historicpoint of view. It can be accessed directly from the basilica. ©wcities.com

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contact:http://www.turismovenezia.it/eng/dynalay.asp

location:Ruga degli Orefici (Rialto)Venice 30125

hours:24 hrs daily

4 Ponte di Rialto

DESCRIPTION: Ponte di Rialto is Venice's most famous bridgearching over the Grande Canal, known as a commercial areaof the city with the busy Rialto Market nearby, filled with brightcolored fruits, vegetables and fish (only open in the morning),and souvenir shops lined up and down the bridge itself. Afterits construction in 1591, the Rialto Bridge remained as the onlybridge connecting the two sides of "the fish" called Venice foralmost 300 years. The Ponte di Rialto is perfect for shopping orstrolling along with gelato in hand while gazing off the bridge atthe passing gondoliers and boats, and postcard perfect shotsof the orange buildings & green water against the pink sky atsunset. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: 39 41 520 8594http://www.venezia-tourism.com/en/venice-restaurants/restaurant-la-furatola.html

5 La Furatola

DESCRIPTION: This restaurant is located in Calle Lunga San Barnaba. The name, 'furatola'indicates an old shop where they once sold poor man's food. Food is still sold here today, but it'snot for poor people anymore! This is an elegant restaurant which is mainly visited by fashionable


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location:Dorsoduro Calle Lunga S.Barnaba 2869/AVenice 30122

Venetians and tourists looking for something refined. It is necessary to book. The cuisine is local,but has been reinterpreted in a creative way. The fish dishes are always very fresh and of excellentquality. The wine list is superb. © wcities.com

contact:tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6www.rialtohotel.com

location:San Marco 5149 Ponte DiRialtoVenice VE 30124

6 Hotel Rialto

DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian propertysituated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metresfrom Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms aredecorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped withsatellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in thehotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace ofthe hotel restaurant.

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DAY NOTE: Your second day starts with a tour of Murano and Venetian glass. In the afternoon if you have time walk along the watertoward the Giardini Pubblici to work up an appetite for dinner at Due Colonne.

contact:http://www.turismovenezia.it/eng/dynalay.asp

location:Isola di MuranoVenice 30141

hours:Open 24 Hours

1 Murano

DESCRIPTION: The skilled Glass Blowers are the foundersof this fair sized island called Murano. In 1291, the furnaceswere moved off of the main island to Murano in case theyever caught fire, making sure the main city of Venice wouldstill be preserved. To this day, Murano is still known for thebeautiful glass works of art, with many stores allowing toursand on-looking crowds to watch the intense production of thesedelicate pieces. Many quaint restaurants and shops line thequiet streets of Murano, located just a short 15 minute boat ridefrom Venice. © NileGuide

wcities

contact:tel: +39 41 73 9586fax: +39 041 73 9586http://www.homeandabroad.com/viewSiteDetails.ha

location:Fondamenta Giustinian 8Venice 30141

hours:

2 Museo Vetrario - Murano

DESCRIPTION: From milky opalescent to crystal clear, all kindsof glass, including chandeliers, vases, glasses and mirrors, invarious styles and forms are displayed at this museum. Visitorscan also watch a glassworker in action. Be sure to visit theglass workshops and famous glass factories in Murano and buya piece of authentic Murano glass. It is expensive, but it is alsoworth a lot, as the work of a master glassworker is extremelydifficult. Admission to this museum is free. © wcities.com

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M-Tu & Th-Su 10.00-16.00

contact:tel: +39 41 73 9083fax: +39 41 73 6844http://www.ercolemoretti.it/

location:423 0141 Fondame NavageroMuranoVenice 30100

hours:9a-6p M-F

3 Ercole Moretti

DESCRIPTION: The speciality here is 'murrine', glass jewelsthat are typical of Murano. The technique for making theseconsists of putting together slivers of multi-coloured glass,melting them down and then cutting them widthways in order toobtain the characteristic concentric circle design. The glass isthen used to create extremely beautiful and precious pendants,table ornaments and more. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 41 522 5625 / +39 41240 5211fax: +39 041 520 0935http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/

location:Piazza San Marco 52Venice 30124

hours:Mar-Oct: 9a-7p, Nov-Feb:9a-5p

4 Museo Correr

DESCRIPTION: There is a silent and almost respectfulambience in this museum. Visitors enter by means ofa staircase, originally built as a grand entrance to theNapoleonic royal palace. From here, the tour continuesthrough neoclassical rooms, the Royal Palace, the CanovianaCollection, Venetian Civilization, Antique Art, and RenaissanceBronze. There are many sculptures by Canova and decorativeobjects by Francesco Hayez. Venezia by Jacopo De' Barbarican be admired in the entrance. © wcities.com

Photo courtesy of Museo Correr

contact:tel: 39 41 524 0685

location:San Polo Campo Sant'Agostin 2343Venezia 30125

5 Due Colonne

DESCRIPTION: Both the pub and the surrounding area are quiet. This place is friendly, andpopular with both locals and tourists. Speedy service. Good selection of classic pizzas and draftand bottled beers. © wcities.com



6 Hotel Rialto


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Day 3 - Florence, RomeQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Day three is an express tour of Florence. You will have to catch an early train from Venice to Florence to get it all donein Florence. Schedule an entry time at the Galleria degli Uffizi to avoid a longer wait. After the Uffizi visit the Palazzo Vecchio and theLoggia dei Lanzi both in Piazza della Signoria. Your afternoon will begin at the Piazza del Duomo with a visit to the Battistero, theCathedral, and the Campanile di Giotto. Nearby is the Church Orsanmichele. Before leaving on a train for Rome be sure to visit thePonte Vecchio. A Eurostar from Florence to Rome will arrive in less than two hours. Once you have checked-in at your hotel go fordinner at the Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese.

contact:tel: 055-238-8651fax: +39 055 238 8694http://www.uffizi.firenze.it

location:Piazzale degli Uffizi 6Florence 50122

hours:Tues-Sun 8:15am-7pm. Ticketwindow closes 45 min. beforemuseum

1 Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries)

DESCRIPTION: The Uffizi is one of the world's great museums, and thesingle best introduction to Renaissance painting, with works by Giotto,Masaccio, Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Perugino,Michelangelo, Raphael Sanzio, Titian, Caravaggio, and the list goeson. The museum is deceptively small. What looks like a small stretch ofgallery space can easily gobble up half a day -- many rooms suffer thefate of containing nothing but masterpieces. Know before you go that theUffizi regularly shuts down rooms for crowd-control reasons -- especiallyin summer, when the bulk of the annual 1.5 million visitors stampedesthe place. Of the more than 3,100 artworks in the museum's archives,only about 1,700 are on exhibit. The painting gallery is housed in thestructure built to serve as the offices (uffizi is Florentine dialect for uffici,or "offices") of the Medici, commissioned by Cosimo I from Giorgio Vasariin 1560 -- perhaps his greatest architectural work. The painting gallerywas started by Cosimo I as well and is now housed in the second-floorrooms that open off a long hall lined with ancient statues and frescoedwith grotesques. Tips for Seeing the Uffizi -- If you have the time, maketwo trips to the museum. On your first, concentrate on the first dozen or

Katie Greenaway


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so rooms and pop by the Greatest Hits of the 16th Century, with worksby Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian. Return later for a briefrecap and continue with the rest of the gallery. Be aware that the gift shopat the end of the galleries closes 20 minutes before the museum. You canvisit it without reentering the museum at any time; if you plan to stay inthe collections until closing, go down to the shop earlier during your visitand get the guards' attention before you pass through the exit turnstile,so they'll know you're just popping out to buy a few postcards and willrecognize you when you ask to be let back in. © Frommer's

contact:tel: +39 55 276 8224http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/Palazzo_vecchio.html

location:piazza della SignoriaFlorence 50122

2 Palazzo Vecchio (Museo)

DESCRIPTION: The palazzo's construction began in 1299 and it wasenlarged repeatedly - in 1343, 1495 and lastly in the 16th century byVasari and Buontalenti. It has been the symbol and the political centreof the city for centuries. The Great room of the Cinquecento stands out,the work of Cronaca, it was designed as a reception area and decoratedwith frescoes celebrating Florentine victories against the other Tuscancities and with sculptures depicting the deeds of Hercules by De Rossi.On the upper floors the Quarters of the elements are noteworthy as arethose of Eleanor of Toledo who was the wife of Cosimo I and to whom thelittle chapel by Bronzino is dedicated. The Gigli room and the Audienceroom, which has a marble entrance, are sumptuous. On the Mezzaninethere is the Loeser collection of painted sculptures. It is recommendedthat you visit the upper balcony where you can enjoy a fabulous viewof Florence. In front of the museum, you'll find a copy of Michelangelo'sDavid. © wcities.com

Katie Greenaway

location:piazza della SignoriaFlorence 50122

3 Loggia dei Lanzi

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Take a stroll through Piazza della Signoria atnight. You can take in the sights while sitting in theshadow of masterpieces from the Renaissance.

DESCRIPTION: The Loggia dei Lanzi or Loggia dellaSignoria is a wide-open gallery of great works of art andsculpture. It brings together the piazza with theUffizi Gallery flowing down into the Arno River. Asthe Florentines adored this masterpiece, Michelangelosuggested having loggia encompass the whole Piazza dellaSignoria. The artist or designer of the Loggia dei Lanziwas Orcagna. He built it between 1376 and 1382 whenBenci di Cione and Simone Talenti took over. The nameLoggia dei Lanzi came from the years the Grand Duke CosimoI was in power, it was used to keep his Lanzichenecchi(Italian)or Landsknechts(German). Shortening it to Lanzi,these were German mercenary pikemen. As the Uffiziwas nearly complete, the Loggia's roof was constructed as aterrace for the Medici so they could watch ceremonies in thepiazza away from the peasants. The Loggia's roof wasdesigned by Bernardo Buontalenti. Today, the sculpturesof divine beauty that are located inside are Benvenuto Cellini's

Katie Greenaway


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Perseus, Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Woman andthe Rape of Polyxena by Pio Fedi. Loggia dei Lanzi isgorgeous at night. Take a stroll after dinner to see theLoggia light up.© NileGuide

contact:tel: +39 055 2 3320fax: +39 055 234 6286http://www.firenzeturismo.it/

location:piazza del DuomoFlorence 50122

4 Piazza del Duomo

DESCRIPTION: Piazza del Duomo is one of the most famouslandmarks in Florence. Truly an architectural piece of beauty, itencompasses the art and history of medieval Italy, through itssheer design. A visit to this city is not complete without visitingthe piazza's cathedral 'Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore' whosedome dominates the skyline. It is no wonder that tourists arespellbound and spend hours trying to capture these images foreternity. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 55 230 2885fax: +39 055 230 2898http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/

location:Piazza San GiovanniFlorence 50129

hours:M-Sa Summer, 1:30-6:30p;Su, 8:30a-1:30p; M-SuWinter: 1:30-5:30p

5 Battistero

DESCRIPTION: Although the Baptistery's precise originsremain unclear, its foundations are known to date back toRoman times. The central doors are stunning works of art,depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament and theyhave been called "The Gates of Paradise." Lorenzo Ghibertiwho worked on them from 1403 to 1424 designed these ornatedoors. Inside, the octagonal structure is richly decorated withRoman columns and gilded column heads. The floor's marbleinlay features Islamic-style patterns and the apse is decoratedwith 13th-century mosaics. Coppo di Marcovaldo and Cimabuewere among those involved in the cupola's decorative mosaicwork. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 55 230 2885fax: +39 55 2302898http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/

location:Piazza DuomoFlorence 50122

6 Campanile di Giotto

DESCRIPTION: Designed by Giotto, the bell tower to the right of SantaMaria del Fiore cathedral was begun by the artist in 1334 but continued byAndrea Pisano (who modified part of the design) following Giotto's deathin 1337. Francesco Talenti finally completed it in 1359. Originally the towerwas linked to the Duomo via a passageway situated at the level of thefirst cornice but this was demolished before 1437. Reliefs carved on theside where the passageway once existed are later works by Luca dellaRobbia; Andrea Pisano's original stone reliefs can be seen in the Museodell'Opera del Duomo. The concepts of universal order and redemptionare recurrent themes; hexagonal tiles on the tower's lower level (nowreplaced by copies) portray scenes from daily human life whilst diamond-shaped reliefs on the upper level illustrate more ethereal subjects in theform of the Planets, Virtue, Liberal Arts and the Sacraments. There's nolift, but climbing the 414 steps to the top of the 85m tower is well worth theeffort! © wcities.com

Campanile di Giotto


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contact:tel: 055-284-944fax: +39 055 234 6286http://www.discovertuscany.com/florence/churches/orsanmichele.html

location:Via Arte della Lana 1Florence 50122

hours:Church open erratic hours(though never open duringriposo). Museum daily9-9:45am, 10-10:45am, and11-11:45am (plus Sat-Sun1-1:45pm)

7 Orsanmichele

DESCRIPTION: This tall structure halfway down Via deiCalzaiuoli looks more like a Gothic warehouse than a church-- which is exactly what it was, built as a granary/grain marketin 1337. After a miraculous image of the Madonna appearedon a column inside, however, the lower level was turned intoa chapel. The city's merchant guilds each undertook the taskof decorating one of the outside nichelike Gothic tabernaclesaround the lower level with a statue of their guild's patronsaint. Masters such as Ghiberti, Donatello, Verrocchio, andGiambologna all cast or carved masterpieces to set here. Since1984, these have been removed and are being replaced bycasts as the originals are slowly cleaned and exhibited up onthe second story. Unfortunately, the church now keeps erratichours due to a lack of personnel, so there are no set openinghours; however, you may get lucky and find the doors thrownopen when you pass by (or, though this may take even moreluck, someone might actually answer the phone number belowand give you details on when it will next open). Since it's prettynifty, and there's a chance you'll be able to pop in, I'll go aheadand describe it all. In the chapel's dark interior (emerged in1999 from a long restoration and entered around the "back"side on Via dell Arte della Lana) are recently restored 14th- to16th-century paintings by the likes of Lorenzo di Credi and IlPoppi. The elaborate Gothic Tabernacle (1349-59) by AndreaOrcagna looks something like a miniature church, coveredwith statuettes, enamels, inset colored marbles and glass,and reliefs. It protects a luminous 1348 Madonna and Childpainted by Giotto's student Bernardo Daddi. The prominentstatue of the Madonna, Child, and St. Anne to its left is byFrancesco da Sangallo (1522). Across Via dell'Arte della Lanafrom the Orsanmichele's main entrance is the 1308 Palazzodell'Arte della Lana. This Gothic palace was home to medievalFlorence's most powerful body, the guild of wool merchants,which employed about one-third of Florence in the 13th and14th centuries. Up the stairs inside you can cross over thehanging walkway to the first floor (American second floor) ofOrsanmichele. These are the old granary rooms, now housinga museum of the statues that once surrounded the exterior.A few are still undergoing restoration, but eight of the originalsculptures are here, well labeled, including Donatello's marbleSt. Mark (1411-13); Ghiberti's bronze St. John the Baptist(1413-16), the first life-size bronze of the Renaissance; andVerrocchio's Incredulity of St. Thomas (1473-83). This museum,too, does not always adhere to its posted hours, as those aredependent on someone being around to honor them. Still, it's atleast worth a try. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: 39 6 495 8493

location:52/54 Viale ManzoniRome 00185

8 Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese

DESCRIPTION: A restaurant offering traditional Puglian cuisine, with friendly, homey service.The Puglian specialties include orecchiette pasta with turnips, rice with potatoes and mussels,cabbage roulade and coq au vin blanc. For those stuck in Rome to have a taste of the deep south.© wcities.com


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hours:Call for details

contact:tel: 39 67027808fax: 39 67027935http://www.travel.it/roma/bled/bled.html

location:40 Via Santa Croce inGerusalemmeRome LA 00185

9 Bled

DESCRIPTION: Housed in an early 19th century villa, this isa simple and uncomplicated hotel. The staff is efficient andcourteous. Its location near Termini station and the Air Terminalis convenient for those arriving by train and for those relying onpublic transport. The rooms are comfortable and have all theessentials. © wcities.com .

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Day 4 - Rome, VeniceQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: No city in Italy can really be seen in one day and Rome is at the top of this list. I have done Rome in one day many timeswith friends and family. Stay focused and drink lots of water. You need to see as much of this city as you can in the time that you have.Rome is my favorite big city in Italy and it is chock full of things to see. From your hotel take the Metro to Piazza di Spagna. From therework your way to the Fontana di Trevi. As you navigate the streets toward the Panteon, stop and see Sant’Ignazio di Loyola and SantaMaria Sopra Minerva. Marvel at the Panteon, built nearly a millennium before the Battistero in Florence, with techniques that werefar beyond those available to the Florentines in the Middle Ages. Your next stop is my favorite piazza on the Italian peninsula, PiazzaNavona. Near the piazza is another church well worth visiting, San Luigi dei Francesi. On the way to visit the Piazza del Campidoglio tryto find the Fontana delle Tartarughe. Between the Campidoglio and the Coliseum is the Foro Romano. Time permitting, walk along theTiber River to St. Peter’s Basilica, otherwise take a cab or take the Metro. After you have visited St. Peter’s you can catch a Metro to getback to Termini, collect your luggage and catch a Eurostar back to Venice.

contact:tel: +39 6 48 8991 (TouristInformation)fax: +39 6 481 9316 (touristinformation)http://www.piazzadispagna.it/

location:piazza di SpagnaRome 00187

1 Piazza di Spagna

DESCRIPTION: An incredible, almost theatrical square withthe lovely Spanish steps leading up to the Chiesa di Trinità deiMonti. One of the most important fashion shows is held here,the steps being used as a catwalk. It is now an internationalmeeting point. The fountain known as the 'Barcaccia' (boat)was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemoratethe alliance made with the King of France, whose coat ofarms can be seen on Trinità dei Monti. The square leads intoseveral famous streets, Via Dei Condotti, Via Frattina andVia Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and Via DelBabuino with its antique shops. © wcities.com

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contact:http://www.romaturismo.it/v2/allascopertadiroma/en/itinerari01.html

location:piazza di TreviRome 00187

2 Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi)

DESCRIPTION: Tradition has it that throwing a coin overyour left shoulder into the fountain guarantees a swift returnto the world's most beautiful city. Anita Ekberg's dip in it wasimmortalized in Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', and Italian actor Totoeven sold it to an American, passing himself off as its owner.Earlier it was the setting for the award-winning "Three Coins inthe Fountain" motion picture, ensuring its popularity worldwide.Designed by Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente XII, it wascompleted in the second half of the 1700s. The statues in thecentre represent Neptune supported by Tritons on either sidewhile rococo-style Poli Palace provides the perfect backdrop. ©wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 6 48 8991 (TouristInformation)fax: +39 6 481 9316

location:piazza MatteiRome 00186

3 Fontana delle Tartarughe

DESCRIPTION: This lovely fountain from the late 16th century wasordered by the Mattei family to Giacomo della Porta's design. The statues,on the other hand, are by Taddeo Landini. The turtles that gave their nameto the fountain, the work of an anonymous sculptor, were added only acentury later. Some think that their creator may even be Bernini, but theevidence is thin; it was perhaps one of his pupils, which would justify anysimilarities between this work and the work of the illustrious sculptor. ©wcities.com

wcities

contact:tel: +39 6 68 8271

location:Via Santa Giovanna d'Arco 5Rome 00186

hours:Office: 8a-12:30p,3:30p-7:30p M-W, F-Su &holidays

4 San Luigi dei Francesi

DESCRIPTION: This national French church holds the tombs of many famous French people.Caravaggio is one artist who features in this beautiful Renaissance church. There is a woodenpulpit with painted panels, fairly unusual for Roman churches; the façade was carried out byDomenico Fontana following a design by Giacomo della Porta; San Luigi is immortalised in a frescoby Natoire, and Il Domenichino frescoed Santa Cecilia's chapel. © wcities.com

contact:http://www.romecity.it/Piazza_navona.htm

location:piazza NavonaRome 00186

5 Piazza Navona

DESCRIPTION: During the Christmas season this square ispacked with stalls selling toys, sweets and decorations for theNativity scene or Christmas tree, making it a favourite spot forchildren. Its unusual shape recalls the time of Domitian, whobuilt a stadium for equestrian displays here. The Fountain of theRivers, with the obelisk, and the Fountain of the Moor, with thegod of the sea, at the centre of the square, are both by Bernini.© wcities.com

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location:piazza NavonaRome 00186

6 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

DESCRIPTION: The Fountain of the Four Rivers is in thecentre of Piazza Navona. It was built between 1648 and 1651from marble and travertine by Bernini. The fountain representsa large rock, which seems to emerge from the water on whichan Egyptian obelisk from the Roman era stands. The rockis inhabited by allegorical animals and plants and decoratedwith the coat of arms of the Pamphili family. Four large statuesrepresent rivers of the then-known areas of the world: theDanube for Europe, the Ganges for Asia, the Rio de la Platafor America, and the Nile for Africa. The last is covering itseyes so as not to see the iniquities taking place before it in thesquare, the commerce practised by merchants and tradesmen.© wcities.com

wcities

contact:tel: +39 6 679 4406fax: +39 6 679 0922http://www.chiesasantignazio.org/

location:8a Via del CaravitaRome 00186

7 Sant'Ignazio di Loyola

DESCRIPTION: This church was built in the first decade of the 17thcentury to pay homage to the founder of the Jesuit Order. The magnificentsplendor of this chapel is typical of the period. Inside, you can admire theprecious stones, gilding, marble and stucco work. For the frescoes theycalled upon the artist Andrea Pozzo, who designed the 'trompe l'oeil' effectceiling featuring a cupola. A cupola was designed but never built, dueto the proximity of the monastery of Dominican friars, as it would haveblocked the light in their living quarters. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 6 6830 0230http://www.romecity.it/Pan_theon.htm

location:piazza della RotondaRome 00186

hours:9a-7:30p M-Sa, 9a-5:30p Su

8 The Pantheon

DESCRIPTION: Commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, restoredby Domitian, and subsequently rebuilt by Hadrian (who addedthe dome) before being turned into a church in the early 7thcentury by Pope Boniface IV. The building's sole source of lightis the opening at the dome's apex (the oculus); according topopular legend, this formed the base for the bronze pineconethat is now in the Vatican's 'Pigna' courtyard, where it is usedas a fountain. Many famous Italians are buried in the Pantheon,including Renaissance painter Raphael and King VittorioEmanuele I. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 6 699 0339fax: +39 6 699 0672http://www.basilicaminerva.it/

location:Piazza della Minerva 42Rome 00186

hours:8a-7p M-Su

9 Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

DESCRIPTION: Piazza della Minerva is just off Via della Minerva behindthe Pantheon. The name of the church, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, wasgiven by the church's position as it is believed it was built over the Romantemple dedicated to Minerva Calcidica. Work began on the church in1280 but the façade was only completed in 1453. In fact this was meantto be temporary but it has remained unaltered despite many plans upuntil the 19th century to modify it. The interior is the only example ofGothic architecture in Rome. The 3 naves are crowned by cross vaultsresting on marble pillars, but the most arresting sight is the decorationwhich is a true work of art. The chapels are decorated with frescoes andmosaics by artists like Melozzo da Forlì, Andrea Bregno, Verrocchio,Giuliano da Maiano, and Filippo Lippi but just as worthy are the statue ofChrist Risen (also known as Christ the Redeemer) by Michelangelo whodepicted Christ with the symbols of his martyrdom embracing the Cross,the funerary monuments of Popes Leo X and Clement VII by Antonioda Sangallo the Younger behind the altar, and the Tomb of CardinalDomenico Pimentel designed by Bernini. The funerary monument andsarcophagus of St. Catherine of Siena were restored for the Jubilee. Onone side of the church can be seen the former convent which was oncethe offices of the Ministry of Education and now of the Ministry of Scientificand Technological Research. It also holds the Casanatense Library withtexts from the history of the Church. In the centre of the square in frontof the church stands a small Egyptian obelisk known as the Pulcin dellaMinerva. © wcities.com

Photo courtesy ofSantaMaria sopra Minerva

contact:http://www.romaturismo.it/v2/allascopertadiroma/en/itinerari05.html

location:piazza del CampidoglioRome 00186

A Piazza del Campidoglio

DESCRIPTION: Reorganisation of Piazza del Campidoglio began in1539 as part of a plan undertaken by Pope Paul III. It was the first squarecreated as part of a plan conceived by Michelangelo in which a spacewas created between Palazzo Senatorio and Palazzo dei Conservatoribounded by a new symmetrical building. The square is in the shape ofa trapezoid with the Palazzo Senatorio on the longer side (the seat ofthe city council's administrative offices) and the Capitoline Museums oneither side. Michelangelo also designed the monumental flight of stepsthat leads to the square on either side of which were the Dioscuri designedby Giacomo della Porta. Michelangelo also designed the pavement inthe centre of which stands the equestrian statue of Marcus Aureliuswhich survived the Middle Ages as it was thought that it represented theEmperor Constantine, the protector of the Christian religion. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 6 700 4261 / +39 6700 5469http://www.museidiroma.com/colosseo.htm

location:piazza del ColosseoRome 00184

hours:

B The Colosseum (Colosseo)

DESCRIPTION: No visit to Rome is complete without havingseen its magnificent Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre withseating for 55,000 that was designed as a horse racing circuitand arena for animal fighting and gladiatorial battles. Upon itscompletion, spectacular 100-day celebrations were organizedas part of the opening ceremony in 72 AD. Its name is believed .


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9a-7:30p end Mar-end Aug,9a-7p Sep, 9a-6:30p Oct,9a-4:30p end Oct-mid Feb,9a-5p mid Feb-end Mar

to come from Nero's enormous statue of Colossus that stoodclose by. © wcities.com

contact:tel: +39 (0)6 48 8991 (TouristInformation)fax: +39 (0)6 481 9316(Tourism Board)http://www.romaturismo.com/v2/operatoriprofessionali/it/spietro.html

location:piazza San PietroRome 00193

hours:24 hrs

C Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter'sBasilica)

DESCRIPTION: People come by the millions each year toreceive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given on Sundays atnoon. St Peter's has undergone many transformations since theoriginal Constantine basilica of AD320. The top of its majesticdome (designed by Michelangelo), provides the best vantagepoint from which to marvel at Bernini's magnificent colonnadesurrounding the square, the gilded bronze canopy above thealtar and Michelangelo's Pietà. Bramante, Pietro da Cortonaand Canova are just a handful of the many other artists whoworked together on this monumental basilica's decoration anddesign. © wcities.com

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D Hotel Rialto


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DAY NOTE: After your two day excursion to Florence and Rome you are most likely in need of an easy day. To recuperate your energytake a short boat ride over to visit the Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore. Near Piazza San Marco and your hotel you can visit the PalazzoDucale and see the Ponte dei Sospiri. For dinner try Da Remigio. Whenever I go to Venice I always have pasta al nero seppia, at leastonce.

contact:tel: +39 41 528 9900http://www.turismovenezia.it/eng/dynalay.asp

location:Isola di San Giorgio MaggioreVenice 30133

hours:Daily 10a-12:30p,2:15p-5:30p

1 Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore

DESCRIPTION: The only building on the San Giorgio Maggioreisland, this church was built in 1566 AD. It is built inside aBenedictine monastery (that was erected in 1000 AD) inaccordance with a plan by Andrea Palladio. The bright interioris covered with paintings by Carpaccio and Tintoretto, such as'L'ultima Cena' and the 'Raccolta della Manna'. From the belltower, there is a magnificent view of San Marco. © wcities.com

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contact:http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/frame.asp

location:San MarcoVenice 30124

hours:

2 Bridge of Sighs (Ponte deiSospiri)

DESCRIPTION: Legends, passions, hopes and despairform the emotional history of the ever famous Ponte deiSospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, a must see for every visitor toVenice. Connecting the Palazzo delle Prigioni (Palazzo ofthe Prisoners) and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), theBridge of Sighs is where prisoners going from their trial and .


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24 hrs conviction in the Doge's Palace, would look across the bridgeat their last glimpse of freedom before entering the prison andlet out a sigh. Over the years it has gained a more hopefulout look being known as the bridge where if two lovers kissunder it, most likely in a romantic gondola, their love will last. To"walk the last walk" over the Bridge of Sighs, you will need totake a tour of the Palazzo Ducale or Palazzo delle Prigioni. ©NileGuide

contact:tel: +39 041 271 5911fax: +39 041 528 5028http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/frame.asp


hours:Nov-Mar Daily 9a-5p; Apr-OctDaily 9a-7p

3 Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

DESCRIPTION: Located next to the Basilica di San Marco, theDoge's Palace has been the symbol of Venice's political life andpublic administration for hundreds of years. The building hasbeen continuously evolving into its present form since 1340,even though its fundations date back to the early Middle Ages(10th century). Considered a masterpiece of the gothic style, ithas been destroyed many times, most notably during the fireof 1106. It was rebuilt by Barbarossa in 1177 and modified overthe time by the different Dogi reigning in Venice. More thana palace, the Palazzo Ducale is an extensive infrastructure,comprising the apartments of the doge (often used as anexhibition space), the government quarters and the palace ofjustice. When visiting the palace, many parts are worth thedetour. In the Museo dell'Opera, you'll see the remaining piecesof the building's medieval facades as well as a collection ofsculptures dating from the 14th and 15th Centuries. Beforeheading towards the Doge's appartments, you'll enter themagnificent courtyard. Take some time to walk alongside theLoggias to enjoy the various angles of the Palazzo. In additionto the Institutional Chambers and the Prisons, take some timeto see the great collection of weapons and armaments in theArmoury. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: 39 41 523 0089

location:Castello Ponte dei Greci 3416Venice 30131

4 Da Remigio

DESCRIPTION: This osteria is located in Calle del Magazzennear Santa Maria Formosa. Da Remigio is characterised byprofessional staff and good service. The menu features risottos,pasta dishes and appetizers made from fish from the lagoonand shellfish. The wine list is good, and offers a range of localand national varieties. © wcities.com .



5 Hotel Rialto

DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian propertysituated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metresfrom Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms aredecorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped withsatellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the

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hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace ofthe hotel restaurant.

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DAY NOTE: In the morning visit the Galleria dell’Accademia Museum. For the afternoon visit the Chiesa di San Salvador, Piazza SanPolo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. For dinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina.

contact:tel: +39 (0)41 529 8711(Tourist Information)

location:Campo San PoloVenice 30123

hours:10a-5p M-Sa, 1p-5p Su

1 San Polo

DESCRIPTION: San Polo and Santa Margherita are the largestpiazzas in Venice. Coming from San Toma the church is barelyvisible and the bell tower, detached from the building, is visiblefrom the other side of the 3m-wide street. In the oratory hangs'Via Crucis' by Tiepolo. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: 041-523-6717http://www.chiesasansalvador.it

location:Sestiere di S.Marco 4835Venice 30124

hours:Daily 9am-noon and 3-6pm

2 Chiesa di San Salvador

DESCRIPTION: The interior is classic Renaissance, built by GiorgioSpavento, Tullio Lombardo, and Sansovino between 1508 and 1534; thefacade is 1663 baroque. It includes a pair of sculptures (Charity and Hope)by an elderly Jacopo Sansovino, who may also have designed the thirdaltar, which supports one of the church's treasures, Titian's Annunciation(1556). Titian also painted the Transfiguration (1560) on the high altar. Askthe sacristan to lower the painting so that you can see the ornate 14th-century silver reredos (ornamental partition) hidden behind. In the righttransept rests Bernardino Contino's tomb for Caterina Cornaro (d. 1510),

Benvenuti


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the one-time queen of Cyprus who abdicated her throne to Venice andended up with Asolo as a consolation prize. © Frommer's

contact:tel: +39 (0)41 529 8711 (LeInformazioni Turistiche)http://www.turismovenezia.it/eng/dynalay.asp

location:Campo dei TolentiniVenice 30124


3 Chiesa di S.Nicola da Tolentino

DESCRIPTION: This church was built by V. Scamozzi in the last 10 yearsof the 16th century. It houses paintings by Palma il Giovane and thePadovanino. Mass is held on a regular basis; call ahead for further detailsor drop in here for a day filled with prayers. © wcities.com

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location:Dorsoduro 1050Venice 30121

hours:9a-2p M, 9a-7p Tu-Sa, 9a-8pSu

4 Galleria dell'Accademia

DESCRIPTION: Containing the world's finest collection ofVenetian paintings, the Galleria dell' Accademia houses worksof art by Mantegna, Bellini, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto,Veronese, Tiepolo and Canaletto – arranged for the most partin chronological order from room to room. A sophisticatedtour through Byzantine, Gothic, Pre-Renaissance, HighRenaissance, and Baroque art, the Galleria dell'Accademia iseasily reached by crossing over the wooden Academia Bridge,having been named after the Galleria itself, residing on theGrande Canal. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: 39 41 523 7238

location:2742 Sestiere San PoloVenezia 30123

5 Alla Patatina

DESCRIPTION: This trattoria is located on the bridge which leads into Campo San Polo. Its namecomes from the old tradition of serving chips on cocktail sticks accompanied by a glass of wine.Now Alla Patatina is a pretty trattoria. It is small and welcoming. It is worth a visit because ofthe quality of its food. It serves typical Venetian dishes such as meatballs, fried vegetables inbreadcrumbs, and also pasta dishes. This can all be washed down with a glass of local red or whitewine. © wcities.com



6 Hotel Rialto


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DAY NOTE: For you last day in Venice you will undoubtedly go to Piazza San Marco for last minute photos. Before you leave todaygo over to visit to out-of-the-way churches, Santa Maria dei Derelitti and San Francesco della Vigna. Also, near Piazza San Marco isanother church worth visiting, Santa Maria del Giglio. If you have time left in the day visit the Palazzo Labia.


location:275 Campo San GeremiaVenice 30131


1 Palazzo Labia - Salone del Tiepolo

DESCRIPTION: Built from Istria stone in the 17th century, thispalace is characterized by three facades that are decoratedwith eagles, from which one can see the Canale Grande.Tiepolo painted a fresco on the walls and ceiling of the Saloneto mark the occasion of a marriage of someone from the Labiafamily. This is now the headquarters of the Veneto region'sRAI and can only be visited by appointment, on Wednesday,Thursday and Friday; call for details. Admission is free. ©wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 41 529 8711 (LeInformazioni Turistiche)http://www.turismovenezia.it/eng/dynalay.asp

location:2786 CastelloVenice 30122

hours:

2 San Francesco della Vigna

DESCRIPTION: According to tradition, toward the middle of the13th century, the son of the Doge Pietro, Marco Ziani, donateda vineyard to the Friars and the church was built here byJacopo Sansovino 300 years later. The façade, commissionedby the patriarch of Aquileia, was later restored by Palladio. Itseems that long before, on the same site, there was the churchof San Marco, to commemorate the place where San Marco

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Call for details was met by an angel on his way back from Aquileia. The soberinterior houses paintings by Veronesi and Bellini. © wcities.com

location:Salizzada Santi Giovanni ePaoloVenice 30123

hours:Su 10a-5p , M-Sa 1p 5p

3 Santa Maria dei Derelitti

DESCRIPTION: Due to its location adjacent to a hospital, this church isalso known as the 'Ospedaleto'. Slightly obscured by the narrow streeton which it stands, the beautiful building dates back to the 17th century.Designed by B. Longhena, it was paid for by B. Cagnoni. Inside areseveral paintings thought to be by Tiepolo. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: +39 41 522 1188

location:Campo Santa Maria DelGiglio O ZobenigoVenice 30124

hours:10a-5p M-Sa, 1p-5p Su

4 Santa Maria del Giglio o Zobenigo

DESCRIPTION: A short walk from the Fenice theatre and Gritti'sresidence stands this luxury hotel. The Gothic façade, recently restored toits original splendor, is adorned with 4 statues representing the Barberofamily. On the lower part of the façade there are maps of fortresses andinside are paintings by Tintoretto and Rubens. © wcities.com

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contact:tel: 39 41 72 1687fax: 39 41 72 1687

location:Santa Croce 1395Venice 30121

5 Antica Bessetta

DESCRIPTION: This restaurant is located in Salizada de Ca'Zusto, near Campo San Giacomo daL'Orio. The service is good, and this is a popular place. The specialities are fish dishes. The winelist is superb, with excellent reds, fruity whites, and prosecco. © wcities.com

My List

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location:Piazzale MichelangeloFlorence 50125

1 Piazzale Michelangelo

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:"Bring a picnic lunch or dinner and enjoy the sunsetwith someone special."

DESCRIPTION: The vista which one can see the wholevalley of Florence and of the surrounding hills is amust see. The climb up is rewarding, the view isbreathtaking. There are buses available to take you toPiazzale Michelangelo. Tourists, tourist groups and tourbuses all congregate at this panoramic view. Vendorsset up early in the morning with cool beverages for the parchedtourists and souvenirs for the eager shoppers. A sunsetvisit is for the romantics, bringing a wine bottle and gazing atthe florentine sky as it ends another day. There is no badtime to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there is always somethingto see. © NileGuide

Katie Greenaway

Florence Snapshot

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Local InfoFlorence is full of culture to offer the newtraveler. The art and architecture is whatsets Florence apart from the other cities inItaly. From theDuomo to thePonte VecchiotoSan Miniato, there is so much to seeand explore. The wonderment of Florenceflows over its visitors bringing smiles to theirfaces. Each neighborhood has somethingto show off as well. Santa Croce holdsthe leather shops as it's trademark. SanFrediano has the artisan shops that havebeen operating for centuries. Campo diMarte expresses anything and everythingabout Viola, the color of the Fiorentinafootball(soccer) team. The markets area token viewpoint of how the locals live. There are markets all over the city inevery neighborhood. Each having theirown personality and locals that have beencoming for many years. The one thingthat is great about Florence is that youcan easily get lost and end up finding atreasure. There are always little streets thatnobody ever sees and shops that are kept asecret. Explore the city because there is somuch more to see than the Ponte Vecchio. Enjoy the traditions of the Fiorentini, suchas having a caffe at the bar around 11amwhen Piazza Repubblica is bustling. OnSundays, take a stroll through the centerand window shop. On Saturday, shopat the local markets and enjoy chatterof Italian in your ear. Florence's mainattractions consists of the Duomo, PonteVecchio and theUffizi Gallery. Duringthe high season these places are filledwith visitors and sometimes it takes awhile to see. Plan ahead and enjoy theseattractions in a calm and timely matter sonot to rush your visit.

Florence is known for it's secrets and littletreasures that are found throughout thecity. For example, have you ever noticedthe tiny wine doors in the walls of thePalazzo's? These wine doors were madefor the rich to sell their wine to the peasantson the streets of Florence. When the localwealthy families had excess wine fromthe harvest they would sell it out of thesewindows. What you would do is knock onthe door and slide the money in as theyopened it. Then the person behind the doorwill then fill a glass of wine to go. Someof the windows around the center still arein it's authentic wooden structure others

have been boarded up. Another fact aboutFlorence, if you look around in the centerof Florence, at all the big Palazzo's andsmaller buildings as well. You will noticesome of the windows that are missing. The whole frame of the window is there butthe window is missing. Italians were taxedhigher when they had so many windows. So they filled in each window that theydidn't want to pay an extra tax on.

The most famous landmarks in Florenceare the Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge), IlDuomo and The Uffizi Gallery. The PonteVecchio is the oldest bridge in Florence,that currently has gold and silver shopaligning the bridge. Previously housingbutchers, the Ponte Vecchio holds onto thetradition of gold and silver shops making ita very posh street to purchase your goodson. Il Duomo(Santa Maria del Fiore) iswhat brings flocks of people to Florenceevery year. The gothic style church wasbegun in 1296 with the design from Arnolfodi Cambio and the dome was completed in1436 by Filippo Brunelleschi. The churchhas one of Giorgio Vasari's famous frescowhich covers the inside of the dome. The Uffizi Gallery is yet another attractionmost visitors look to visit when arriving inFlorence. From Da Vinci to Caravaggio,you have a pick of the great works of theRenaissance period.

San Giovanni(Duomo)

San Giovanni takes its name from SanGiovanni Battista(St John the Baptist),patron saint of Florence, in whosehonor the Baptistery was built. Thehistoric city center(centro storico) ismost representative of Florence. Thelayout of the district follows a roadsystem created by the Romans(knownas thecardus anddecumanus system).In thecentro storico, you will see theenormous, imposing structure of thecathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, referred tomostly commonly as the Duomo(from theLatindomus, meaning house of God), withits cupola designed by Filippo Brunelleschi,a beautiful dome that adds splendor to thecity skyline. The city has also preservedits medieval network of streets, lined withregular, geometric Renaissance palacessuch as the Palazzo Strozzi and PalazzoMedici-Riccardi, which once belonged toFlorence's powerful, oligarchic families.Florence is divided into five districts and

the center is divided into four sections(SanGiovanni, Santa Croce, Santa MariaNovella and Santo Spirito). The universityand the Tribunale di Firenze(which ishoused in the Complesso di San FilippoNeri) are also in this district.

Santa Maria Novella

Named after the Santa Maria NovellaBasilica- a Dominican basilica andimportant cultural center during the MiddleAges, the district of Santa Maria Novellacovers the area west of the train stationwhere a majority of affordable hotels andthe city's largest park is located. The trainstation of the same name(designed in1932 by the young architect GiovanniMichelucci) is also situated nearby. Notfar from the station is the Fortezza daBasso, a former stronghold of the city whichis now used as an important center forconferences, conventions and exhibitions.The zone is also home to the Parco delleCascine, one of the city's green oases. Inthis district also lies exclusive boutiquesthat are concentrated in a few of themost well-known streets, such as via de'Tornabuoni and via della Vigna Nuova. Viade' Tornabuoni is famous for being hometo some of Italy's most prestigious designerboutiques e.g. Versace and the FlorentineSalvatore Ferragamo.

Santa Croce

Santa Croce is named after Santa Crocechurch, a medieval Franciscan basilica.The National Central Library(BibliotecaNazionale Centrale di Firenze) is alsolocated here.

Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)

The entire stretch of the side of the riveropposite the majority of the city's touristattractions, the Oltrarno is home to manylocals, small eateries and amazing touristsights such as San Frediano to SanNiccolò. At its heart is probably one of themost incredible Renaissance churches andpiazzas: the Piazza Santo Spirito, whichhas retained much of its historic charmand is filled with workshops of the city'straditional artisans. This piazza is the placefor parties on summer evenings, bringingtogether young Florentines and foreigners,many of whom live in this area. ThePalazzo Pitti with its old Medicean gardenand the Boboli Garden, are both in Oltrarno.The famous Piazzale Michelangelo(with

Florence Snapshot continued

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its panoramic view) is also in this district.From here, it is possible to see one of thefew remaining stretches of medieval wallaround the Belvedere that was spared fromdemolition in the 19th Century. Included inthis is the lovely medieval gate of the PortaRomana.

Campo di Marte& Fiesole

The Campo di Marte is located outside ofwhat used to the be the medieval city walland is home to many historical buildingsdating back to the early 20th Century, aswell as to many modern stone and cementapartment blocks which were built afterWorld War Two. There are also numeroussports venues, athletic facilities and theStadio Artemio Franchi, Fiesole, and theBellariva zone are close by; these areswathes of Piagentina countryside thatalways induced feelings of nostalgia inTuscan painters.

Gavinana& Galluzzo

Gavinana and Galluzzo are south of theArno and lead to the well-known Chiantiwine region. On the southwestern sidelies Galluzzo, famous for its Carthusianmonastery.

Isolotto& Legnaia

Combining areas of the city that weredeveloped during the 1960s and 1970s(andare still expanding!), Isolotto and Legnaiaare home to commuters and enormousAmerican hotel chains. The Isolotto districtwas once the scene of various clashes andsocial unrest during the 1960s.

Rifredi

Rifredi in the northwestern part of the citywhere, by the 15th Century, the Medici hadalready constructed some of their manycountry villas, among which Villa di Careggi,the villas of Castello and La Petraia inthe Castello. In this district there are alsoseveral industrialized, residential zones,such as Novoli, Firenze Nova, Brozzi,Le Piagge and l'Olmatello. Brozzi, thezone is host to many Chinese and Africanimmigrants. The influx of immigrants meansthat even a city like Florence cannot liveforever in the past but must create a newmulti-ethnic history.© NileGuide

HistoryThe history of Florence stretches backas far as the 8th Century BCE when aprimitive settlement lived in the valley,close to the Arno."Florentia" is recordedas an official Roman colony in 59 BCEand was designed according to the typicalRoman road system, which can be seenin many Italian cities today. There are twoprincipal roads: thecardus descends fromthe Baptistery to Via Roma and continueson to Via Calimala, while thedecumanusstretches from via del Corso to via degliSpeziali until it reaches via degli Strozzi.The Forum(public meeting place andmarket) was built at the point where theroads meet, on what is now the Piazzadella Repubblica. During Roman rule,Florence was the most important city inRoman Tuscany.

Florentia was invaded by numerous tribesin the following centuries: Goths,"Silicone",Ostrogoths and Longobards. Manyinhabitants adopted Christianity at thetime of the Silicone, and the first churchesappeared outside the Roman walls ofFlorentia: San Lorenzo and Santa Felicitawere built during the 4th Century CE andcan be visited today.

Charlemagne's arrival put an end to thecolony's expansion. Buildings were stillconstructed however, and the Baptisterydates back to this time. The city flourishedin the 9th and 10th Centuries, a great dealof money was spent on the constructionof many religious buildings, e.g. theBadia Fiorentina. Many public works wereundertaken, including the building of the citywalls in 1078. Florentia was a cultural andeconomic success!

Florence's wealth and power grew atan enormous pace; a second set ofcity walls had to be built; the district ofOltrarno became part of the city andRomanesque-style architecture ruled(e.g.San Miniato and Santi Apostoli churches).Florentine craftsmen became involvedin textiles(beginning with the trading ofwool and silk), which lead to gradualurbanization. Political tension began torear its ugly head in the 13th Century astwo political factions(the Guelphs and theGhibellines) fought for power. At the endof the 13th Century, there was somethingof a cultural revolution. A major player inthis revolution was the architect Arnolfodi Cambio who designed the Palazzo dei

Priori(which became the Palazzo dellaSignoria a century later and then thePalazzo Vecchio) and also started workon the reconstruction of Santa Maria delFiore, which was completed in successivecenturies. Arnolfo also continued with theconstruction of the third and final set of citywalls.

The city was devastated by plague in 1348,and political conflicts were still rife. TheCiompi Revolt of 1378 occurred as a resultof the people's frustration—the poor reactedagainst their unjust governor. Meanwhile,Florentine merchants and bankers werealready working hard to increase theirwealth in order to attain power over thenobility.

Lorenzo de'Medici played an importantrole in Florence's history; he strengthenedthe political interests of the nobility, whilededicating himself to his love of the Artsand philosophy. The city underwent acultural rebirth. After Lorenzo's deathin 1492, the city came under the harsh,puritanical rule of the fanatical Dominicanfriar, Girolamo Savonarola, who waselected to the leadership of the Republic.He was so unpopular for his preachingsthat he was burned at the stake six yearslater by angry citizens. The leadership ofthe city was unstable for several yearsafter that with the arrival of French troopsunder King Charles VIII, but the de'Mediciclan regained power and Florence hadher first Duke in 1530, and then GrandDuke in 1569. The succession of the GrandDukes of the Medici family continueduntil the end of the 18th century, butFlorence gradually lost the central roleit had occupied in preceding centuries.The last heir of the Medici's handed overpower and all the family's riches to theHouse of Lorena, whose rule continueduntil 1859, when Florence was unitedwith the rest of Italy(which later becamethe Kingdom of Italy). Florence wasonly the capital of this kingdom for a fewyears(1865-1871) and the court transferredits official residence to the Palazzo Pitti.A lot of urban design and restructure tookplace during the 19th century, including theconstruction of embankments along theArno and piazzas in the centre of the newdistricts of Barbano and Mattonaia(whichare now Piazza dell'Indipendenza andPiazza D'Azeglio). The"arnolfiane" walland the Jewish Ghetto(which was situatedin the current location of the Piazza della


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Repubblica) demolished to make way for aseries of ring roads which were to lead tothe Piazzale Michelangelo and the Piazzadella Repubblica.

World War Two had a devastating effecton Florence. The city sustained manydamages, especially to its bridges and thearea inside the Ponte Vecchio. The flood of1966 further hindered the preservation ofvaluable Florentine treasures, resulting ina restoration process that will be on-goingwell into the 21st and 22nd Centuries.© NileGuide

Hotel InsightsItalians say that it will certainly take youmore than a day to drink in the beauty ofFlorence, you will need to stay for at least along or extended weekend. It is also true tosay that it can be a problem to find a roomin Florence, especially if you decide to visiton the spur of the moment. To save yourselfunwanted trauma, it is always best to bookin advance. Florence is always popular withtourists and often the more cost-effectivehotels are full in November. You will alsofind that hotel prices are high even duringlow season.

If you decide to drive to Florence, takenote that the municipal police will not allowyou to enter the city unless you have ahotel booking or unless you need to unloadyour luggage. If you must use a car, it isimportant to stay at a hotel that has parking.

Santa Maria Novella

Many of the city's hotels are located in thiscentrally-located district; close to the trainstation and all the tourist attractions. If youwant to stay near the splendor of the SantaMaria Novella, then try Hotel Aprile. Fivestar hotels are sprinkled throughout thecity and some of the best of these hotelsinclude: the Grand Hotel and the WestinExcelsior,(both are in piazza d'Ognissanti)these are the places where the VIPs andpoliticians stay when they come to visitthe city. The Villa Medici has an enticingswimming pool, and is close to the Piazzadella Repubblica, as is the Helvetia&Bristol. The Croce di Malta faces thePiazza Santa Maria Novella. The AstoriaPalazzo Gaddi is inside a beautiful palazzowhich has glorious ceilings decoratedwith frescoes. If you arrive in Florence bytrain, you will find many hotels around theStazione Santa Maria Novella that are

either two or three star. Via Panzani(leadingto Piazza del Duomo) and Via Nazionale,have a wide choice of reasonably pricedhotels, many of these are family runestablishments, housed in historic palazzi.The Annabella and the Nizza are only a fewof the long list of hotels that will welcomeyou and treat you well, as you enjoy yourtrip to this beautiful city.

San Giovanni(Duomo)& San Marco

For comfort and elegance near San Marco,try the Hotel Regency in Piazza MassimoD'Azeglio, a pleasant, peaceful piazza.Many fantastic four star hotels are alsoscattered throughout the district, thepick of the bunch are: the Grand HotelBaglioni, which is conveniently locatedbetween the Piazza della Stazione andthe Duomo, this hotel has a stupendousterrace view. Il Brunelleschi, housed in thesplendid, Byzantine Pagliazza tower, wasa female prison during the Middle Ages. IlCalzaiuoli is also situated in a prime spot,between Piazza del Duomo and Piazzadella Signoria. The Hotel Loggiato deiServiti and Le Due Fontane are to be foundin the setting of the Piazza SantissimaAnnunziata.

Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)

Perhaps you would like a view of the Arno?Lungarno has been recently renovated andfaces the river.

Campo di Marte& Fiesole

You can also find a wide choice of three-star establishments along the banks of theLungarni in this district, these are a littlefurther out of town, but you can easily reachthecentro on foot within a matter of minutes:such as the Hotel Columbus.

Novoli

If you are coming to Florence for businessrather than pleasure, you may find it easierto stay near to the airport or the mainmotorways. In the north of the city, you'llfind the Hotel Alexander and the HotelFleming.

Gavinana& Galluzzo

If you want to lose yourself in the midstof the city and be immersed in the greenof Viale dei Colli, then the Grand HotelVilla Cora is ideal, you can take a dip inthe pleasant pool, or you can try the fourstar hotel, Relais Certosa in Certosa delGalluzzo, with its own splendid tennis

courts(should you fancy a little exercise).On the outskirts of the south the Holiday InnGarden Court and the Sheraton beckon. Iflooking for a view of the Arno, then the ParkPalace is for you.© NileGuide

Restaurants InsightsTuscan cuisine, and Florentine foodin particular is essentially based onsimple, natural ingredients. It hails fromthe traditions of peasant food and iswholesome and tasty.

Extra-virgin olive oil is held in pride ofplace in Florence, and it is never missingfrom the Florentine table. Olive oil fromTuscany is cold-pressed, green andpungent orpizzichino(sometimes with aslightly bitter after-taste) and is eaten withina year and a half of harvesting the olives.Olive oil is used as a dip for foods suchas celery, artichokes andpinzimonio(aselection of fresh vegetables). It is alsoused in cooking, and as a condiment forsalads and deliciousbruschette. Amongstthe bruschette there is one that is king, andmust be tasted to be believed! It is madewith red cabbage and beans and thenseasoned with ground pepper and Frantoiooil.

If you want to indulge in Florentine breadyou should remember that in general,bread in Tuscany does not use salt.Tryschiacciata if you want a more flavorfulbread—this is a crusty focaccia salted anddrizzled with olive oil. A typical Florentineantipasto dish is a recipe calledcrostini difegato, pieces of Florentine bread whichhave been baked and dunked in soup,and then garnished with chicken liver pâté,capers and anchovies.

Another traditional Florentine specialty isthe famousbistecca alla fiorentina. Thesteak comes from Chianina, a region nearTuscany which produces the Chianinabreed, regarded as possibly the oldestbreed of cattle in the world. It is thick cut,weighs not less than 800g, cooked on thegrill, served rare and, on occasion, with awedge of lemon on the side. AFiorentinacan satisfy two people, but there are thosebrave enough who will attempt to eat oneall by themselves!

The soups andminestre are well worthtrying and they are derived from peasanttraditions. The most delicious, famous


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Florentine soup isribollita, made witha mixture of stale bread, beans,cavolonero(a black cabbage grown in Tuscany,similar to kale or Swiss Chard) and othertypical Tuscan vegetables.Ribollita derivesits curious name from the fact that thepeasant women would usually cook thesoup in large quantities that would beboiled repeatedly(ribollita), and theneaten for several days. As with manyleftovers,ribollita always tastes better theday after! Other delicious soups arepappacon il pomodoro(a tomato-based soupthat's thickened with bread) andminestradi farro(spelt or barley soup with beans,tomatoes, celery and carrot). Whilesome of these soups might not soundterribly appealing to your palate, they areabsolutely delicious, simple and hearty.

Do you have a sweet tooth?Schiacciataalla Fiorentina is a special Florentine treat:an orange-flavored sponge cake, coveredwith confectioner's sugar(often with acocoagiglio, or lily- the symbol of Florence—sprinkled onto the center) and filledwith pastry or whipped cream. Althoughtypically served around Carnevale, it canbe found at Florence's pastry shops yearround.Cantuccini di Prato are dry almondbiscuits that are dipped in Vin Santo, asweet, aromatic dessert wine.

Tuscan Specialties These specialtiescan be found in the majority of Florence'srestaurants. Some of the more famous,traditional restaurants include: Il Latini,Trattoria Mario, Coco Lezzone and LaCasalinga, there are also many others, sodon't feel dismayed if you don't get into theplaces above.

Haute Cuisine If you fancy somethingmore"refined", or if you want to celebratea really special occasion, then it is worthspending that little bit extra and goingto Enoteca Pinchiorri, or Il Cibreo, youcould also try Cammillo, although you willdefinitely need to book in advance.

Wine Bars There are also manyenotecheor wine bars in Florence: here you candrop in, relax and have a glass or two ofgood Chianti with a sandwich. In the mostelegant places e.g. Enoteca de' Giraldiand Enoteca"La Sosta del Rossellino", youcan try delicious wines accompanied bytasty bruschette and delicate appetizers. LaBarrique wine bar is also very popular andhas an extensive wine list.

Pizza Italy is famous for its pizza andpizzerias can be found in almost every nookand cranny of Florence, although gettinga typical Neapolitan-style pizza might bea bit of a challenge: Florentine crusts tendto be thin and crispy, cooked in a wood-fueled oven. If you prefer the"traditional"Neapolitan pizza, it is almost alwayspossible to ask for a pizza withdoppiapasta(double crust), which means you'll geta softer, thicker crust. Try Ciro& Sons for aslice of Naples in Florence.

International Cuisine Recent years haveseen a big growth in the amount of ethnicrestaurants, ranging from the Chineserestaurants to Mexican(Cafè Caracol),from Indian(Ashoka or Ristorante India), toJapanese(Momoyama) and there are alsomany other restaurants in various areas ofthe city.

Vegetarian Vegetarian cuisine has alsomade an impression on Florence! Ruth'sis next to the Synagogue and sells Kosher,vegetarian fare. Il Vegetariano serveswonderful meat-free and organic dishesand is a huge success in the city.© NileGuide

Nightlife InsightsAlthough Florence is quite a small city,it is inundated with visitors, ex-pats andstudents; this is great news if want to havean evening of raucous fun, or if you preferto follow more cultural pursuits. Visitorsand Florentines alike are impressed by thewealth of entertainment that they find onoffer here.

Cinema

Going to the cinema has become anincreasingly popular pastime since themid-1990s, and the number of cinemashas increased to meet the needs of thepeople in Florence; many of the city'smultiplexes have been renovated andreopened. This change in the amount ofcinemas that exist has created a climateof"non-stop cinematography" and fewercinemas close down during the summermonths. Florentine cinemas are veryvaried; there are modern one-screenhalls, massive multiplexes and smallindependent cinemas. The Cecchi GoriGroup owns the most cinemas in the cityand the majority show general releasesand(dubbed) American blockbusters,

although the Atelier group makes surethat Art house theatre is kept alive. Atelierhave six cinemas that show good qualityindependent films and directors and actorswill often attend previews and answeraudience questions. On Wednesdays,prices are reduced and many Florentinesgo to the movies. However, one of the besttimes to go to the cinema is during thesummer; between the months of June andSeptember: you can watch a new releaseor one of the previous winter's"smashes" inthe open air, as you sit beneath the stars.Some of the"normal" cinemas will remainopen; many of these have air-conditioning,which is a great way to avoid the humidityof a Florentine summer, not to mentionall the mosquitoes! One cinema in thehistoric center, the Odeon, caters to theinternational community showing filmsprimarily in English, and sometimes theoccasional French or Spanish-languagecinematic phenomenon on Mondays,Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Theatre

Although there are many more cinemas,compared with the amount of theatres,it is unfair to say that Florence favorsthe"Big Screen" to the stage. The Florentinetheatrical tradition has always beennoteworthy, for example, the famousMaggio Musicale Fiorentino attractsmany well-known people. The range ofproductions is very varied too, there areupbeat comedies by Neil Simon at Teatrodella Pergola, or more provocative, thoughtprovoking dramas such asA StreetcarNamed Desire at the Teatro Manzoni. IfShakespeare is more your thing, then theMetastasio Theatre will meet your highbrowneeds!

Cafés, Bars& Pubs

In Florence(and everywhere else) mostpeople want to go out and stay out untillate at the weekend; this city has a largenumber of bars and discos, which peoplecan enjoy any day of the week. For a quietevening, drinking and chatting late intothe night, why not try Caffè Pitti in PiazzaPitti, or Hemingway close to Santa Mariadel Carmine. At il Genius you can relaxwith friends and play board/card games.Zoe, Dolce Vita and Porfirio Rubirosaare a little more crowded and lively, whileCafè Caracol has a Latina vibe. If you aremore of a wine lover, then try Pitti Gola orCantina. Maybe you fancy a pint? Both


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The William and Chequers are British instyle,(perhaps to meet the needs of themany ex-pats who make their home here!)They sell an infinite number of beers, andsnacks accompanied by good music andare populated by Florentine beer lovers andforeigners alike. Clubs

Lots of tourists like to check out the clubsand discos when they are on holiday.Florence offers a great variety of nightspots,it is possible to choose from mainstreamdiscos such as Meccanò, where you mightmeet a VIP or two), and the fabulouslycheesy Andromeda, or more specialist rockbars such as Tenax(popular with manyyoung Italians) and the Auditorium Flog.There are many nightclubs(especiallyduring the summer) with theme nights,where people can dance, listen to musicand chat. These include Pongo, which isclose to Teatro Verdi and il Lidò on thebanks of the Arno, which attracts at leasthalf of the city.

As you can see, Florence has much toattract the cultivated wine drinker, thecinephile or the perpetual party boy/girl.Divertitevi!© NileGuide

Things to Do InsightsPiazza del Duomo is a great place to starta tour that will uncover some of Florence'shistorical beauty. Not only is the piazza richin history, but it's an architectural delighttoo. One of the first sights you will see isthe Battistero di San Giovanni, dedicatedto St John the Baptist and one of the oldestbuildings in the city. It was constructedin its current form in the 11th Century.Besides the beautiful interior which is richlydecorated with mosaics, there are gloriousmedieval and Renaissance bronze doors byAndrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. Thepair of doors designed by Ghiberti that thepublic sees on the Baptistery are replicasand the originals are located nearby at theMuseo dell'Opera del Duomo. The museumis situated on the piazza, behind the apseof the cathedral. Amongst other things, itcontains precious sculptures as well asexhibits connected to the buildings that aredotted around the piazza.

In front of the Baptistery is Santa Maria delFiore, which was built by Arnolfo di Cambioin 1296 to replace the old Santa Reparatacathedral. The archaeological remains of

this cathedral are in the basement of thepresent church. Di Cambio's building wasonly completed 150 years later with theaddition of the enormous cupola(dome) thatsits above the church's transept. FilippoBrunelleschi, a truly gifted Renaissancearchitect designed the dome. It is possibleto reach the top of the cupola(access is onthe right hand side of the church), which is107m from ground level but there is no liftso you will have to climb over 450 steps.It is definitely worth climbing the steps, notjust for the beautiful view that awaits you atthe top, but also so that you can begin toappreciate the mastery of Brunelleschi, asthe cupola is truly an extraordinary feat ofarchitecture.

The interior of the cathedral itself is alsowell worth visiting, even though at timesthere can be a queue. Amongst otherthings, you will be able to see the frescoesbeneath the cupola, painted in the secondhalf of the sixteenth century by Vasari andZucchari. The frescoes cover an area ofaround 3600m2 and represent theLastJudgment. It is also worth taking a lookat the Sacristy where Lorenzo de'Medicisought refuge during the Pazzi conspiracywhen his brother Giuliano was killed in thecathedral in 1478. Here you will also seethe lined marquetries created by a groupof artists including Giuliano and Benedettoda Maiano. There are two frescoes on theright of the nave as you turn towards theexit:Giovanni Acuto(Sir John Hawkwood) byPaolo Uccello andNiccolò da Tolentino byAndrea del Castagno.

As you leave the cathedral, you will see theCampanile di Giotto. Giotto, the renownedMedieval artist himself began work onthe tower prior to his death in the 14thCentury. In this case too, a climb to thetop is recommended—but take care if yousuffer from vertigo!

Walk down Via Calzaiuoli—along whichyou will find hundreds of shops selling allmanner of goods—and in a few minutes,you will reach the Piazza della Signoria,the political center of Florence. The focalpoint of the piazza is the imposing PalazzoVecchio(also known as the Palazzo dellaSignoria). This palace once housed thegovernment of the city of Florence andhas been enlarged several times over thecenturies. Arnolfo di Cambio(the samearchitect who designed the cathedral),created the palazzo in 1294. The sectionthat is not dedicated to the museum retains

its function as the offices of the TownCouncil. The second internal courtyardhouses the only public baths in the citycenter.

On the Piazza della Signoria, you'll comeacross the Loggia dei Lanzi, originally apublic meeting place which is now an open-air museum where you can view severalsculptures by Giambologna(Rape of theSabines) and Baccio Bandinelli(Herculesand Cacus). Besides this, there is alsothe ManneristFountain of Neptuneby Bartolomeo Ammannati and theequestrian monument toCosimo I, byGiambologna. There is a 19th-century copyof Michelangelo's magnificentDavid too,which stands in front of the palace gates.

At this point you have a choice. You caneither visit the Galleria degli Uffizi(probablyone of the most important art collectionsin the world), which is only a short walkfrom the piazza, or, weather permitting,relax at an open-air café, e.g. the Rivoire(apopular choice), which is famous for its hotchocolate with cream—absolute bliss!

Medici Residences You can begin yourvisit with what was the residence of theMedici family, from Cosimo il Vecchio untilthe Grand Duke Cosimo I: Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in Via Larga, now known as ViaCavour. The palace was comissioned byCosimo il Vecchio, designed by famedarchitect Michelozzo in 1444 and finallyenlarged by the Riccardi family whenthey took over ownership of the palace.Today it is seat of Florence's Prefettura andofficial offices of the province of Florence.From the interior courtyard, it is possibleto visit the Cappella dei Magi(Chapel ofthe Magi), frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoliand magnificently restored for the 1992anniversary of the death of Lorenzo de'Medici. Throughout the fresco there arenumerous portraits of major Florentinefigures of the time as well as membersof the Medici family. Some of the famousfaces include leaders of the EasternOrthodox church and John VII Palaiologos,Byzantine Emperor, both figures presentin the city during the Council of 1439. Inthe palace there is also the BibliotecaRiccardiana, with an entrance on viadei Ginori 10, which features one of thegreatest library collections in the city withmanuscripts purchased from RiccardoRiccardi and it has been open to the publicsince the early 18th Century. The library


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is adorned with sculpted interiors of the1700s.

Around the corner from the Palazzo Mediciis the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, one ofFlorence's ancient churches, rebuilt inthe 1500s by Filippo Brunelleschi and hisarchitectural team. One of the true Medicichurches, it contains the tombs of manyof their famous family members, fromGiovanni di Averardo and his wife PiccardaBueri, in the Sagrestia Vecchia, to Cosimoil Vecchio, whose tomb is found in thecrypt, directly beneath the church's highaltar. In the Sagrestia Nuova, a work ofMichelangel, we find on one side the tombsof Lorenzo il Magnifico, and his youngerbrother Giuliano who was murdered inthe Pazzi Conspiracy in 1478, and on theother the tombs of Lorenzo, Duke of Urbinoand Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. In theadjacent Cappella dei Principi(Chapel of thePrinces), an opulent 17th-century design,we find several tombs of Medici Dukes andtheir wives.

Next to the church are the numerous standsof the San Lorenzo Market where you canbuy clothing(new and used), shoes andother trinkets that are great gifts for friendsand family. If you're looking for local foodproducts, the nearby Mercato Centrale,Florence's largest market, you can findeverything from fruit and vegetables tomeat and fish, at affordable prices. Whileyou're there, why not try a lampredottosandwich, a Florentine specialty that not allforeigners are willing to taste.

Returning to the via Cavour and following itupwards, you arrive at piazza San Marco,where the Church of San Marco is found.The historic monastery previously belongedto the Sylvestrines and in 1418 was handedover to the Dominicans. Thanks to thefinancing of Cosimo il Vecchio, the churchand monastery were able to enlarge.

While at the church, you simply can't missthe Museum of San Marco that includespart o the Dominican monastery where Fra'Giovanni da Fiesole(perhaps better knownas Fra' Angelico, Antonino Pierozzi(bishopand Florentine saint), Girolamo Savonarola,and in most recent times Giorgio La Pira,the unforgettable mayor of Florence.A suggested starting point on the tourof the church museum if the Cloister ofSant'Antonino, and then from the SalaCapitolare where Fra' Angelico frescoedone of his masterpieces, theCruxifiction. On

the first floor of the monastery, spread outthrough three corridors that open onto themonks' cells, all decorated with frescoeswith religious scenes entirely done by Fra'Angelo and his workshop. This is, withouta doubt, one of the most interesting andemotional parts of the complex.

Not fear from the piazza is the Accademiadi Belle Arti where the small off-shootbuilding of the Galleria dell'Accademia, inwhich, among the many works of art, is theoriginal copy of theDavid by Michelangeloas well as other works by this well-knownFlorentine artist, such as thePrisoners. Thismuseum contains four of the statues thatwere originally designed for the final restingplace of Pope Julius II(a Medici); however,it was never realized.

Given the pretense of several officesof the university, particularly in via degliAlfani, there are many bakeries, smallgrocery stores and bars where you cangetschiacciatine(a foccaccia-like breadwith salt, olive oil and sometimes peppers,olives and other savory treats on top,sandwiches, or coldprimi at affordableprices. This also means that you can findsit-down places that don't overcharge ifyou don't take your meal or coffee at thebar. This zone is also characterized bythe presence of specialized libraries, copyshops and printing offices.

From the piazza San Marco, you can easilyarrive in under a couple minutes to thepiazza della Santissima Annunziata, withthe Basilica Mariana della SantissimaAnnunziata, and on the right side, thecolonade designed by Filippo Brunelleschifor the Ospedale degli Innocenti, a truemasterpiece of Renaissance architecture.At this point, you ought to be tired, and ifyou decide to head down the via dei Servi,towards the Duomo whose magnificentcupola is visible from the middle of thepiazza, or turn down the via della Colonnaand arrive at the Archaeological Museum,to appreciate and superb Etruscan andEgyptian artifacts.

Oltrarno Towards the Ponte Vecchio,characterized by the numerous jewelryshops, which originally butcher and leathermakers that lined the river, and in crossingthis famous bridge you arrive in an areaknown as the Oltrarno. The area is moreformally known as Santo Spirito and todayhas unique artistic characteristics thatdistinct it from other parts of the city. During

the summer, it is not difficult to find localssitting on chairs in front of their apartmentbuildings, chatting and discussing theday's events. This has always been anarea where many artists have lived andworked, something that is still quite visibletoday with the numerous restoration and artstudios that line the streets.

Shortly after crossing the bridge, on theleft there is the Chiesa di Santa Felicita,Florence's oldest church, restored in the18th Century. Up a bit further is the largepiazza on an incline which leads to theentrance of the Palazzo Pitti, originally aresidence of the Pitti family who went brokeconstructing and decorating it to outdo theMedici...who eventually purchased it in1565 to save Luca Pitti from impendingdebt. Today the palazzo houses fivemuseums, but if you don't want to staycooped up indoors and the weather permitsit, it is strongly suggested that you visit theBoboli Gardens, which is easily accessiblefrom the palace's courtyard. The extensivegardens go from the hills to the ForteBelvedere, a fortress of the city; however, ifyou can't make it to the top, a walk amongstthe trees and sit on the benches to enjoythe beauty of the gardens.

Following these suggestions, justoutside the piazza Pitti is the splendidvia Maggio(previously known as the viaMaggiore), lined with gorgeous 16th-century palaces that belonged to Florence'smost noted families, not to mention allthe lovely antique shops that are on bothsides of the road. Shopping here is reallyélite, reserved for those who can affordto buy an expensive villa or an expensiveRenaissance-era piece of furniture. Thereare also more affordable shops in the areawhere you can find items to bring home assouvenirs.

Walking down these narrow streets thatcharacterize this area you will inevitablyfind yourself in front of the Chiesa di SantoSpirito, Brunelleschi's last architecturaltriumph. In front of the church, everymorning, there are different markets, andonce a month there is an antiques market-truly an event to not miss out on. Thereare plenty of choices for dining in this area:bakeries, grocery shops, but also small,family-run trattorie with homemade mealsand outstanding menus at affordable prices.

By this point, if you aren't alreadyexhausted, you can take the main street


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back towards the Chiesa di Santa Mariadel Carmine, even if it's just to seethe chapel of Felice Brancacci that hecommissioned from Masaccio in the 1420s.The frescoes are truly a masterpiece ofEarly Renaissance art, works not to miss.The entrance to the chapel. The entranceto the chapel is from the piazza, on the rightside of the church.© NileGuide

Travel TipsGetting There

By Air

Florence's Amerigo VespucciAirport(+39 055 373 3498/ http://www.aeroporto.firenze.it/) is just six milesnorthwest of downtown, but handles alimited number of airlines. It has recentlybeen renovated to accommodate morepassengers and more airlines. Theyinclude:

Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)Austrian Airlines(+1 800 843 0002/http://www.aua.com/) Belle Air( +35542 40 194/ http://www.belleair.al/)Brussels Airlines(+1 516 740 5200/ http://www.brusselsairlines.com/) Carpatair(+44208 602 7077/ http://www.carpatair.ro/)Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://www.continental.com/) Flybaboo( http://www.flybaboo.com/) KLM( +1 800 3747747/ http://www.klm.nl/) Lufthansa( +1800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/)Meridiana(+39 0789 52682/ http://www.meridiana.it/) Sterling Airlines( +440870 787 8038/ http://www.sterling.dk/)Swiss Airways( +1 877 359 7947/ http://www.swiss.com/)

From the Airport

Bus: ATAF(+39 055 56 501/ http://www.ataf.net/) provides bus service every30 minutes between 6a-11:30p. Theride takes about 20 minutes, depositingpassengers at the Santa Maria Novella RailStation. Cost: EUR4.50.

Taxis: Taxis can be found just outside thearrival terminal. Rides to downtown last15-20 minutes and cost approximately EUR20-30.

Rental Cars: There are several rentaldealers at the airport with offices in the

downtown area near Santa Maria Novellatrain station.

Avis(+1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/http://www.hertz.com/) Europcar(+39 041541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/)National(+1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com/)

By Train

Ferrovie Dello Stato, or FS(http://www.trenitalia.it/), the Italian state railway,enjoys a sound reputation for efficiency.Since Florence is on the main Rome-MilanLine, riders are offered a variety of dailyoptions, including Intercity trains(IC), knownfor their express service. Santa MariaNovella, the city's main train station locatedin the north end of Florence, handles mostof the rail traffic. Rifredi, a much smallerstation, offers a limited number of railchoices.

By Bus

Lazzi Eurolines(+39 055 363 041) handlesinternational travel connecting Florencewith major European cities such asBrussels, Barcelona, Paris and Prague.Its station is located adjacent to the SantaMaria Novella train station. Domestic travelis provided by SITA(+39 055 294 9555/http://www.sita-on-line.it/) to locations suchas Lucca, Volterra, Pisa, Siena, Empoli andmore.

By Car

Autostrada 1(A1), Italy's major highway,juts into Florence from Bologna from thenorth, and continues south to Rome.E76 connects Florence with Pisa and theLigurian Sea to the west.

Getting Around

The Azienda Transporti Area Florentina, orATAF(+39 055 56501/ http://www.ataf.net/),manages Florence's bus transportation. Itservices all the major tourist attractions,operating between 5a-1:30a. Fares: 70-minute ticket EUR 1.20; one-day ticketEUR 5; three-day ticket EUR 12; seven-dayticket EUR 22.

Taxi

Taxis can easily be hailed at stands foundat hotels and major squares throughout thecity. A minimum fare starts at EUR 4.

Cars

Cars are not recommended. Most ofFlorence's narrow streets are limitedto locals with properly marked vehiclesand filled with locals zooming around onscooters. And if you dare to drive you willquickly learn that the Renaissance nevergave thought to parking.

Walking

Walking rates as the best means fornegotiating Florence's narrow maze ofcobblestone alleys and streets. Downtownis very compact with most of the majortourist attractions located within severalblocks of each other. Be sure, however, tocarry a map.

Motorini

Mopeds, if anything, will make you looklike a local. Riders must be 18 and helmetsare mandatory. Alinari(+39 055 280500), Maxirent(+39 055 265 420), andMassimo(+39 055 573 689) are good rentalsources. Expect to pay around EUR 30 perday.

Flying Into Pisa(PSA)

Pisa's Galileo Galilei(+39 050 849 300/http://www.pisa-airport.com/)(PSA) isthe larger of the two airports that serviceTuscany, but is situated 58 miles west ofFlorence. Major airlines include:

Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/ http://www.ba.com/) Continental(+1 800 5250280/ http://www.continental.com/)Delta( +1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com/) easyJet( +44 870600 0000/ http://www.easyjet.com/)Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/) RyanAir( http://www.ryanair.com/) Sky Europe(+421 24850 4850/ http://www2.skyeurope.com/)TUI(+49 511 2200 4713/ http://www.tuifly.com/) United( +1 800 538 2929/http://www.united.com/) US Airways( +1800 622 1015/ http://www.usairways.com/)

Trains& Coaches from Pisa to FlorenceRiding the train is a good travel optionto Florence. The Pisa Aeroporto stationprovides a train about one every hourbetween 6:30a-10:30p. Rides last an hourand a half. One-way fare: EUR 5.40.

A new coach service from Pisa toFlorence is offered by Terravision(http://


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www.terravision.eu/florence_pisa.html/),with trips taking just 70-80 minutes andcosts EUR 8 one-way.

Rental Cars: Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com/)Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 3672277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)

The drive to Florence on the E76 takesabout 45 minutes.© NileGuide

Fun FactsTop 12 Florence Facts

1.Weird Fact: Florence streets can be onename at one end of the street and anothername at the other end. For example,Via Martelli is the street leading awayfrom Piazza del Duomo then at the firstintersection it turns into Via Cavour.

2.Fun Fact: Florence is the capital city ofthe province of Florence and the Italianregion of Tuscany.

3.Interesting Fact:Via Chiantigianais themost beautiful road in all of Italy. Windingthrough the vineyards and woodlandssurrounding Florence connecting to Siena.

4.Weird Fact: Fiascois an Italian wordreferring to a glass bottle or flask witha long neck. According to the OxfordEnglish dictionaryfiasco--meaning afailure or complete breakdown--comesfrom the Italian expressionfare fiasco,to make a bottle. Nobody knows howthis Italian expression came to be in theEnglish language. Today, old trattorie arestill calledfiaschetteria--working men'staverns. Back in the day was knownas taverns with hearty, cheap Tuscanwines and later for a more homey Tuscanspecialities that paired with the wines.

5.Fun Fact: How do the Italiansreallyeatpasta? The correct technique involvespiercing some pasta near the edge of thebowl, not in the center but at the twelveo'clock position, then twirling the pastaaround the fork against the rim of the bowl.

6.Historical Fact:In 1339, Florence becamethe first city in Europe with paved streets.

7.Random Fact:Florence was home tothe infamousMedicifamily from the 14thcentury to the 18th century.Leonardo daVinci,Niccolo Machievelli,Galileo Galilei,Amerigo Vespucci, Donatello, Raffaele,Roberto Cavalli, and Guccio Gucci,fashiondesigner andGuccifashion was founded inFlorence 1921.

8.Historical Fact:The Grand Duchy ofTuscany was the first state to abolishcapital punishment in November 1786.

9.Interesting Fact:Florence has had twofloods; one on November 4, 1333 andNovember 4, 1966.

10.Fun Fact:What would come to bethought of as Italian was first formalized inthe first years of the 14th century throughthe works of Dante Alighieri, who mixedsouthern Italian languages, especiallySicilian, with his native Florentine in hisepic poems known collectively as theDivineComedy. Dante's much-loved works wereread throughout Italy and his written dialectbecame the standard that all educatedItalians could understand. Dante is stillcredited with standardizing the Italianlanguage and, thus, the dialect of Florencebecame the basis for what would becomethe official language of Italy.

11.Historical Fact:Florence Nightingale,famous for revolutionizing the field ofnursing, was named for the city of her birth.

12.Fun Fact:Florence is best known forleather and gold© NileGuide


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Weather

Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Temperature C

Average High 11 12 16 19 24 28 32 32 27 21 15 11

Average Mean 6 7 11 13 18 22 25 25 21 16 11 7

Average Low 2 3 6 8 12 16 18 19 15 12 7 4

Temperature F

Average High 51 54 61 66 75 83 89 89 80 70 59 52

Average Mean 43 45 51 56 64 72 77 77 69 61 51 45

Average Low 36 37 42 47 54 61 65 66 59 53 44 38

Rainy Days 6 6 6 7 7 6 4 5 7 8 8 8

Rain Fall (cm) 3.4 3.7 3.2 6.0 4.5 3.8 2.3 2.8 5.5 8.6 8.9 5.2

Rain Fall (in) 1.4 1.5 1.2 2.4 1.8 1.5 0.9 1.1 2.2 3.4 3.5 2.0

© NileGuide

Rome Snapshot

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Local InfoRome is a city that cannot be describedin few words. With over 2500 years ofhistory, hundreds of thousands of art works,monuments, and beautiful views, the aptlynamed Eternal City is interwoven withunparalleled history, beauty and drama. Every monument, palazzo, park and piazzaare testament to the many rises and fallsof Rome, from its early Repubblican birthand Imperial age through to its 21st centuryincarnation. Likened to a gigantic open-airmuseum, Rome is living history and everyyear, the city hosts millions of visitors--tourists, scholars and pilgrims-- fromall over the world. It is chaotic, friendly,aggressive, and relaxed. In essence, acharming contradiction that wins the heartsof its visitors, who always return.

Rome is famously noted as being builton seven hills-- the Quirinale, Viminale,Esquilino, Celio, Aventine, Capitoline,and Palatine. The birth of Rome starts onthePalatine, a small shepherding settlementwhere, as tradition says, Romulus livedwhen he founded the city. Historically,the Palatine was the"it" hill where Rome'scelebrated leaders lived from the Kings of7th to 5th centuries, to the Repubblicansenators and patricians and the ImperialAge's emperors. TheCapitoline hillrepresents Rome itself- it was the centerof the Empire, home to the most importanttemples(which served for religious aswell as political significance) from the 7thcentury BC through Rome's changingtimes. Today, the Capitoline hill is centeredby the Michelangelo-designed Piazzadel Campidoglio, with statue of EmperorMarcus Aurelius on horseback at the verycenter. Perimetering the piazza are theCapitoline Museums, Italy's most precioussculpture collection, and Rome's city hall.

The highest of Rome's seven hills,theQuirinale is home to Palazzo delQuirinale, a former papal and monarchyresidence and now palace to Italy'sreigning president. Noteworthy is theopen piazza, with its looming obelisk andequestrian statues. Opposite the Palazzois theScuderie, formerly stables and nowa gorgeous temporary exposition spacefor international exhibition. The base ofthe Quirinale was partially dismantled byEmperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2ndcentury. What remains are the markets

of Trajan and Trajan's column, markingthe height of the hill. TheViminale standsnext to Quirinale and is smaller in size. The hill is bisected by Via Nazionale,a shopping street where the early 20thcentury Palazzo delle Esposizioni buildingresides, and leads upward to the majestic Piazza della Repubblica, a favorite piazzafor its double-sided arcade of columns andplayful Naiad fountain. Just behind thepiazza is Rome's principal railway station,Stazione Termini. Roman poets Virgiland Horace lived on theEsquiline hill, nowa very busy neighborhood with Rome'srecently favorite Monti neighborhood. TheEsquiline's terrain includes three peaks,one of which is Monte Oppio, where Nerobuilt his infamous Domus Aurea. Belowthe Esquiline and behind the Colosseumis theCelio, Rome's greenest and mostcharming of hill where the lovely VillaCelimontana park is located. TheAventine,seen from the peak of the Palatine, pastthe Circus Maximus, is a quiet, residentialneighborhood, with remains of Rome'soriginal 3rd century BC Several wall.

Rome has expanded these seven hills,and in a city of hundreds of rooftops anddomes like San Pietro(St. Peter's Basilica),some of the most beautiful panoramas canbe seen from the hills of Montemario, thePincio, and the Janiculum.© NileGuide

HistoryThe history of Rome is based on myth,which Romans proudly celebrate every 21stof April. Rome's beginnings start with thefall of Troy, and Aeneas's escape from theburning city. Fleeing by ship with his fatherAnchises and son Ascanio, he landed onthe Italian peninsula. Ascanio eventuallyfounds Albalunga, a community in Lazio. As myth recounts, Ascanio's descendantRhea Silvia, perhaps predicted to mothera nation, was forced to become a VestalVirgin so as not to bear children. However,Rhea Silvia was loved by the god Mars andbore him twin sons, Romulus and Remus,who she placed in a basket in the Tiberso they would be killed. The twins werewashed up on the Tiber banks, close tothe Palatine hill and were nutured by ashe-wolf. Eventually, a shepherd raisesthe brothers. Romulus and Remus growup and take residence on the Palatine

and Aventinte hills, respectively. And asthe myth progresses, the brothers argueover who will be the foretold founder of anempire so Romulus kills Remus and foundsthe city Rome on April 21s, 753 BC. Rome's ancient history covers threedistinct periods—the Age of the Kings,the Republican Age and the ImperialAge. From Romulus, the small hillsidecommunity was ruled by the"king ofthe hill" until 510 BC. Seven historickings who change Rome from a smallshepherding town into a cosmopolitancity with complex governing and tradingprograms and an impressive drainagesystem. With its constant exposure to farmore democratic states, especially Greece,Rome's kings were ousted and in its placewas an advanced republic, which is theblueprint for all future democracies. Therepublic was also characterized by internalstruggles that eventually due to the riseof the plebeians(lower class Romans). The Republic was not just city, but aconcept that expanded through Lazio,the Italic peninsula and eventually theMediterranean. For almost four centuries,Rome built unparalleled and nearly infalliblerepublic, accomplishing what Greece,Persia and Egypt could not-- the unificationof the East and West. Corruption was rampant, likewise egosand the Republic was shattered with thedeath of Julius Caesar on March 15, 44BC. Chaos reigned but 31 BC marks thebeginning of the Empire, under AugustusCaesar. The imperial age opened witha long period of peace, Pax Romanus,under the iron grip of Augustus. And bythe beginning of the 2nd century underTrajan, the empire's expanse was in its fullglory. However, instability and corruptionwere popular within the empire andlikewise within the psyche of the Emperors. Centuries forward brought dilution ofthe boundaries and of the emperors.Christianity, legalized under Constantinein 312 AD, began to spread and create astrong presence that challenged imperialregime.

Rome Snapshot continued

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The official fall of Rome is marked at 476AD, but its decline was seen much earlier. The causes are many: constant relocationof the capital, uncontrollable subjects,quixotic social and economic changes,and finally the arrival and strength of thebarbarian tribes. Rome was left as a bandittown, a gangland and an abyss throughthe Middle Ages. The only ruling party waspapal, but again, the city was anarchy. However, the Pope's power evolved fromreligious to military, and through out thecenturies grew exponentially. In 1377,Rome was established as official papalheadquarters and by the end of the 15thcentury, its cultural impact on the city wasseen in the papal beautification programs—essentially urban planning. The face ofthe city changed, as palaces, villas, piazzasand churches were built. New streets werecreated and the basilica of Saint Peter wasleveled and rebuilt, followed by two morecenturies of expansion and beautification. Clashes continued between the papacy andRome's people, and in the beginning of the1800s, Napoleon changed the landscapeas church's estates were confiscatedand divided amongst French officials andItalian laymen. The 1800s were an era ofunrest through out the Peninsula, with therising campaign to overthrow the pope andinstall a monarchy. In 1870, the campaignsucceeded and Italy was established as acountry free of papal rule, led by both a kingand parliament with Rome as its capital. In1923, Mussolini was elected to Parliamentand eventually becomes 20th century tyrantheralding Fascism. World War II causedtantamount strife in Italy as Italy was firstpart of the axis and then surrendered to theAllied forces in 1943, leading Germany tooccupy Rome for over 9 months as the Kingfled. The city was bombed by the Alliesand in April 1944 it was liberated. In 1946,Italy became once again a republic, exilingits monarchy, and ever since, Rome hasbeen the hotbed of Italy's whimsical politics.© NileGuide

Hotel InsightsThe"Eternal City" holds a fascination foranyone in search of history or just plainbeauty. Students, tourists, businessmenand pilgrims visit Rome at any time of theyear, maintaining an uninterrupted flow oftourism that redefines the Eternal moniker. Despite Rome's abundance of hotels, it isnot always easy to find a last-minute room,so make sure to research and reserve inadvance.

Centro Storico(Historic Center)

The majority of hotels, both luxury andlax, are found Rome's historic center. Traditionally,Via Veneto is home to Rome'smost expensive and luxurious includingtheAmbasciatori Palace, theHotelMajestic,theWestin Excelsior and theEden—all making deserved appearance inFederico Fellini's filmLa Dolce Vita. Heading down the hill, Rome's otherexclusive addresses are the Bernini Bristoloverlooking theFountain of Triton, and theomnipotentHassler Villa Medici, at the topof the Trinità dei Monti steps. Now luxurycan be found all over the city, from themajesticExedra at Piazza della Repubblicato the celebrity favoriteDe Russie atPiazza del Popolo. For those wantinga little Grand Tour charm, theValadierinPiazza del Popolo, theD'Inghilterra andtheDei Borgognoni near the lively Piazzadi Spagna, all provide a room with a verybeautiful view.

Affordable accommodations pepper the city,and some popular pads are found in andaround the nooks of Campo dei Fiori, thePantheon and Piazza Navona, likeHotelTeatro di Pompeo, Albergo del Sole andRelais Palazzo Taverna. If antiquity is ofmost importance, theForty-Seven,Inn at theForum and Hotel Gladiatori, with amazingforum and colosseum views, may just fityour needs. Termini

Manypensioni and bed& breakfasts arefound around Termini station. They arealmost always privately run, simply andcheap, making them an ideal choice for

budget traveling. The Bee Hive is Rome'sfavorite for atmosphere and affordability.

TrastevereThe Trastevere neighborhood has abroad range of hotels, from the luxuriousHotel Donna Camilla Savelli to the moreoutrageous Goodnight Garibaldi.

Parioli/Flaminio

For less chaos and green, the upperclassand very residential Parioli neighborhoodhas the swankyLord Byron hotel, a favoriteamong business travelers and tryst-seekers.© NileGuide

Restaurants InsightsThere is a wide, varied selection as faras gastronomy is concerned in Rome;choices range from exclusive high-levelcuisine, developed by some of the mostfamous chefs on the international sceneto traditional, heartyRomanesca fare in allits manifold variations; from Jewish cuisineandtestaccina recipes to the specialtiesof Lazio and ethnic dishes, which can besampled in the plethora of restaurants thatoffer delights from all over the world.

The only way to really understand theheart and soul of Rome is by tasting itsculinary splendors in a popular restaurant,this allows you to steep yourself in Romanculture while you discover the tastes andflavors of traditional cooking through theages.

Delicious Roman cuisine stems from a timewhen people were unable to afford a mealmade with meat, and therefore had to useoffal, which at that time was consideredless"prestigious" but definitely moreaffordable. Over the centuries, traditionaldishes likecoda alla vaccinara(oxtail cookedwith wine, tomatoes and peppers),lapajata,(veal's offal cooked in a tomatosauce),l'abbacchio alla scottadito andlatrippa alla romana(tripe), have come to beconsidered as delicacies and are eaten byeven the most refined palates.

Centro Storico(Historic Center)

If in search of high-class food, Rome offersa great choice of quality restaurants. Thereare elegant places in the more exclusivehotels, such as La Pergola dell'HotelHilton, the Terrazza dell'Hotel Eden or La


40

Veranda dell'Hotel Majestic. You can alsotry the delights of creative haute cuisineat restaurants such as Quinzi& Gabrieli,Alberto Ciarla, and Le Sans Souci. Tuckedaway down a small alley, the exclusive IlConvivio Troiani can be hard to fine, but ifyou are looking for Italianalta cucina this isyour place. Agata e Romeo have offeredfamily run fine dining for three generations.Romeo is an expert sommelier and therestaurant has over 1500 labels in itscellar. Romolo nel Giardino della Fornarinain Trastevere is the perfect setting for aromantic evening; dine outside in the low-lit courtyard where Raphael is said to havecourted his lady La Fornarina. Nino is acozy option, offering classic Roman andTuscan cuisine in a warm environment. Or,if you are looking for pizza in the center,try Da Baffetto, which has been serving upsome of best around since the 1960s.

Inspired by the popular filmBabette's Feast,Ristorante Babette has the feel of a 1920sFrench bistro. Gusto 28 also has a chicearly 20th-century feel, and is especiallyknown for its seafood dishes and variety ofvegetarian plates. Ancient meets modernat L'Acino Brillo, where creative cuisine andcontemporary decor blend delightfully inthis hip restaurant and wine bar.

Rosati is also in the center and offers greatviews with their coffee. A celebrity hot spotduring the 1960s and 1970s, they also havea dining room if your espresso leaves youwanting more. Obika off Piazza Navonaoffers something unique yet stillveramenteitaliano- a fresh mozzarella bar. A numberof varieties of one of Italy's most famouscheeses are served here, accompanied bya nice selection of meats, vegetables andsauces.

A relaxing way to enjoy a snack or eveningcoffee is at one of Rome's many cafés,usually serving coffee, gelato, panini andsnacks. The elegant Ciampini is locatedatop the Spanish Steps, and offers amazingviews of the city. The famed Antico CaffèGreco is one of Rome's oldest(open sincethe 1760), and is definitely one of its mostexclusive.

Trastevere

Pizzerias and trattorie are definitely themost popular places to dine in Rome:informal, economical and with speedyservice, they are home topizza alla romana,pizzas with a thin crust and a crispy edge,as opposed to the soft raised crusts of

the Neapolitan pizza; however, if you arecraving a taste of bella Napoli, you can'tdo any better than Da Vittorio. You willfind pizzerias in every corner of the city,but Trastevere offers an especially widechoice of pizza restaurants with woodfueled ovens(these give the pizza a moreintense flavor). Panattoni, Ivo, Dar Poeta,Roma Sparita, Arco di San Calisto, are justsome of the places from a wide selectionof high quality pizza parlors. Remo, in theheart of Testaccio, offers outdoor seatingand hip younger crowd. In addition topizza, don't miss other delicious Romanofferings found at pizzerie and trattorie,such asSupplì al telefono, fried rice ballsfilled with mozzarella, potato croquettes,fried cod fillets, fried pumpkin flowers,andbruschette,(slices of toasted bread withtomato or oil and garlic).

Termini

Est! Est!! Est!!! has been around since theearly 1900s, and serves thick-crusted panpizzas as opposed to traditional Roman thincrusted pies. This is a great option if youare in the center of the city and don't feellike heading over to the many pizzerie overin the Trastevere.

Vaticano

For gelato, Gelateria Pellacchia in thehistorical center offers some of Rome'sbest, as well as coffees and panini.©

Nightlife InsightsRome's beauty is accessible both day andnight and the same is to be said for its vastrange of entertainment—theater, cinema,opera, discos; the list is(almost) endless.

TheaterThe theatrical season lasts from Octoberto May and it can often continue throughthe summer months. Most theatres offer arange of plays and productions, but thereis one very special exception: The Sistinais the undisputed home of musicals. Thereare numerous private, experimental andavant-garde theatres often hosting youngartists and offering stimulating, thought-provoking works. The Abraxa Teatro, ishome to an innovative company, who seekto express themselves and their ideas byusing their bodies rather than speech. Ifyour tastes are a little more traditional,historic theatres such as Teatro Argentina,

Valle and the Nazionale offer high qualityperformances by famous actors and theatrecompanies. The Teatro della Cometa andthe Teatro Flaiano offer light comedies.

CinemaThe cinemas in Rome have greatlyimproved over the past few years. Manynew multiplexes have been built andother cinemas have been completelyrestored. The cinema scene in Rometoday is characterized by a fair amountof small, independent cinemas and manylarge, modern multiscreen cinemas;these cinemas almost exclusively showcommercial films. Some of the betterknown independent cinemas such asthe Greenwich, the Intrastevere, andthe Labirinto have united to formCircuitoCinema, a society interested in promotinginnovative films, created in an attemptto confront the supremacy of the largedistribution companies. Warner Moderno,Metropolitan, Nuovo Sacher and Alcatrazoften show English-language films. Summer is definitely the most romantic timeto enjoy a film at the outdoor cinema onIsola Tiberina.

Live MusicLive music is popular in Rome. There arean increasing number of places offering livemusic from Italy, America, England, Africaand South America. The most successfulvenues are concentrated in certain areassuch as the Testaccio quarter, includingplaces like Akab and Radio Londra. TheTrastevere quarter is the home of thehistoric Big Mama. The Alexanderplatz inTrionfale is also recommended.

Classical MusicClassical music lovers are also cateredfor, the city has a varied concert season;there is chamber music at the Accademiadi Santa Cecilia and the Gonfaloneorganizes delightful baroque musicconcerts. The"symphony season" atthe Teatro dell'Opera takes place inTerme di Caracalla during the summer,but the Associazione Il Tempietto offersconcerts throughout the year. The elegantlyfurnished and imposing Teatro dell'Operais the only theatre in Rome, which offersan operatic season of any importance andin summer, opera is performed outdoors inthe enchanting Terme di Caracalla or thePiazza di Siena.

Discotheques


41

Discos are very popular amongst theglamorous Romans; the elegant, formalcrowd(politicians, actors and VIPs)often like to go to 1980s style clubs. Themore"serious" clubbers frequent ViaGalvani in Testaccio, the heart of Rome'snight life. During the summer months,many discos relocate to the beaches ofFregene and Ostia, and some even to theTiber banks for RomaEstate.

Pubs& BarsDiscos aren't the only places that arepopular on the weekend; pubs, beergardens, restaurants and bars all teem withlife. Many of theselocali perform more thanone function. For example, a cocktail barwill sell beer or allow you to surf the Internetbefore you hit the dance floor. Many cafésstay open late. The most popular and livelycafés are in the splendid Trastevere districtin Via Veneto and Piazza Navona like theclassic Caffe della Pace. Wine bars tendto be laid-back, informal and welcoming.These are great places to have a snackwhile sipping some excellent wine. Try theTrimani Il Wine Bar and the Cul de Sac inPiazza Navona. Pubs and beer gardens inRome tend to have a British theme, theyserve many different beers, and true to thegood old'Brit' style, you can enjoy a gameof darts with your pint! Places to be"seen" ininclude the Fiddler's Elbow and the VictoriaHouse.© NileGuide

Things to Do InsightsColosseumHeading the list of Rome's ancientmonuments is of course the Colosseum.Inaugurated in 80 AD, it is the symbol of theImperial Capitol and draws visitors from allover the world. Even if the lines are long, atour of this ancient arena is well worth it.

The ForumThe Palatine is the oldest part of the cityand home to the many of the ancient sites.To the North of the Palatine hill are the vastremains of the Roman Forum, once thesocial, political, and economic center of thecity.

Pantheon, Trevi& NavonaThe Pantheon, with its rotund interior andopen ceiling, was constructed circa 125BC and is now used as a Christian Church.One of Rome's famous landmarks is the

Trevi Fountain, immortalized in Fellini'sfilmLa Dolce Vita. Although you are notallowed to wade through the fountain asAnita Ekberg famously did, legend has itthat throwing a coin in ensures a return tripto Rome. On the other side of the Pantheonis the oval0shaped Piazza Navona whichwas once a Roman circus(hence its shape)but designated as a square in the 15thCentury. Bernini's famous Fontana deiQuattro Fiumi is located here, along withFontana del Nettuno. Piazza Campo de'Fiori is also close by. By day the squarehosts one of the most famous streetmarkets in Italy, and is a popular meetingplace for tourists as well as local youthduring evening hours. The Spanish Stepsor Scalinata Trinità dei Monti, at Piazza diSpagna, are another of Italy's most famousmeeting places.

VaticanMany of the works that were uncoveredduring the original excavation can now beseen in the Vatican Museums. St. Peter'sSquare is one of the most visited places onEarth. People come from all over the worldto see Saint Peter's Basilica and receivethe Pope's blessing, traditionally givenSundays at noon. Leave plenty of time totour the Musei Vaticani(Vatican Museums),which house numerous masterpieces,including Michaelangelo's Sistine Chapeland Rapahel's School of Athens. Justeast of the Vatican on the Tiber is CastelSant'Angelo. Originally constructed as amausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in 139CE, the fortress was used as a castleduring the 10th Century and eventually asa papal residence. The last act of Puccini'smasterworkTosca took place here, andtoday the building has been turned into amuseum. The Ponte Sant'Angelo stretchesover the Tiber and was also constructed byHadrian, intended to link the tomb with thecenter of Rome.©

Travel TipsAirportsFiumicino Leonardo da Vinci(FCO)International airport and Ciampino(CIA)airport(www.adr.it) are Rome's two hubsfor air travel. Fiumicino is the transatlantictraveler's delight with its numerous shopsand restaurants. Fiumicino has long andshort term parking, and easily connected toRome by a thirty minute train ride, bus or

taxi. Ciampino is hub for European travel,especially for budget airlines like Ryan Airand Easy Jet. Ciampino is connected toRome by bus, shuttle and taxi.

From the AirportFiumicino-Leonardo Da Vinci InternationalAirport (FCO)Train: The Leonardo Express runsdirectly from the airport to the main railterminal,Termini, as well as Tiburtina andTrastevere stations, with trains every 30minutes from 6:35a-11:35p. Tickets arepurchased either from teller or automatedmachines, and must be validated prior toboarding. Children under 12 accompaniedby an adult ride free. Follow signsfor"Stazione FS/Railway Station," locatedon the second floor.

Bus:"Sit Bus Shuttle" to and from airportto city center(Piazza Cavour e StazioneTermini, in Via Marsala). Bus stop is foundin front of Arrivals at Terminal 3. Ticketsare purchased on bus.http://sitbusshuttle.itTaxi: Rome's official taxis are white withblack identity codes on the door. A ride fromthe airport the city center is EUR40, withsupplemental baggage fees. Wait in theofficial-regulated taxi lines rather than fallingprey to non-licensed drivers.

Ciampino Airport(CIA)

Bus: to and from Ciampino to TerminiStation by busesATRAL, COTRAL, SIT andTERRAVISION. The buses are parked indedicated bus bays opposite InternationalDepartures.

TrainRome is a major hub for Italian rail,at Termini Station. It is managedand maintained by the Italian StateRailway(http://www.trenitalia.com/) andoffers a variety of options for continentalas well as local travel. The EuroStar andFreccia Rossa are the high speed linestraveling up and down the peninsula. Mostof the trains arrive and depart at Rome'sTermini station, including all InterCity,regional and national trains, with a fewinternational trains stopping at Ostienseand Tiburtina stations.

BusTiburtina Station(http://www.romatiburtina.it/), north eastern part ofRome, is the base for most intercity buses.The bus terminal is located adjacent to therail station. Euroline(http://www.eurolines.it/)


42

and Cotral services bus lines that runinternationally.

CarAll roads lead to Rome. The A1, Italy'sfamed superhighway running from Milan toNaples, makes sure to pass through Rome.The A24 spans east and the SS1 Aureliacoastal route splits the A12/E80 betweenGenoa and Rome. All converge withRome's ring road, the Grande RaccordoAnulare(GRA). With gas prices paidby the liter and toll roads littering themotorways, driving can be quite expensive.Check out the Autostrada website(http://www.autostrade.it/) for toll info throughoutthe country.

Driving in Rome can be a harrowingexperience. The historical center isa restricted driving zone(Zona TraficaLimitata- abbreviated ZTL), and non-resident vehicles are prohibited M-F 8a-6pand Sa 8a-1p, enforced by major fines.Paid parking spaces are marked by bluelines and are all over the city. ParkingTermini is located in front of the main trainstation and is open from 6a-1a. ParkSiand Parking Ludovisi are located nearthe Villa Borghese. Another option aretheparcheggi di scampio lots, locatedfarther outside the city center usually nearmetro stops. Around EUR2 a day, this is avery economical but riskier option as lotsare unattended.

Public TransportATAC is Rome's public transportationprovider for buses, trams and metro line. Tickets are 1 euro, and require validationbefore travel. Duration is 75 minutes. Buses run 24 hours a day throughout theentire city. TheMetropolitana or metrohas two lines(A and B) recognizable bylarge red signs marked"M". The lines criss-cross through the city, intersecting only atStazione Termini and run from 5:30a-11:30everyday, and until 12:30a on Saturdays.

Children under ten years ride free. Forinformation about special tickets like the all-day pass and to plan your route, visithttp://www.atac.roma.it/(Italian only site).

TaxiRome's official taxis are white and havea black identification number on the doorreading Comune di Roma. Use only theseauthorized taxis, as they are meteredand regulated-- and make sure to keep aclose eye on the meter. Normal startingfare(between 7a-10p) is EUR2.80; nightfares are higher(10p-7a) EUR5. Rememberthat Sunday and holiday fares also applybetween 7a-10p, and rate per mileincreases if you travel outside the city limits.Bring plenty of small bills as Roman taxidrivers are notorious for not having change!Taxi Companies include:

Cooperativa Radiotaxi SamarcandaRadiotaxi 3570

© NileGuide

Fun FactsInteresting Fact: SPQR, Rome's nearly2500 year-old mottoSenatus PopulusRomanus(aka the Senate and the Peopleof Rome) is also the motto of Rome's wasteremoval organization.Fun Fact: Rome isa capital city which contains the world'ssmallest country, Vatican City, of 108 acres,within the boundaries of the Eternal City'soriginal urban sprawl.Weird Fact: Visitorshave the opportunity for a sneak peak atpurgatory. The Museum of the Souls inPurgatory sits in side room of the Church ofSacred Heart of Suffering, just across theriver from Piazza Navona. The museumshowcases artefacts that have traces fromsouls suffering in purgatory. Not limbo,but purgatory, the 8000 year waiting roombetween heaven and hell.Random Fact: the majority of all souvenirsellers are named either Marco or

Massimo/Massimiliano.University Fact:Rome's first university, La Sapienza(est.A.D. 1303), is the largest in Europe withover 100,000 enrolled students andthe second largest in the world.SoccerFact: Most Romans lovecalcio(soccer),and Rome sports two teams: Roma, thetraditional anti-establishment, workingclass team and Lazio, the slightly morestaid club. Make sure you know whichcolors to wear(red/yellow or blue/white) andhow to identify team symbols– very usefulwhen arguing with a taxi driver.MuseumFact: Rome's museum traverse ancientto contemporary art, but there are severaloffbeat culture caches as well including:a Pasta museum, Horror museum(bydirector Dario Argento), a Purgatorymuseum, Carabinieri museum(militarypolice), and the museum of police carsand uniforms.Ancient History Fact: Romecelebrates its 753 BC foundation every April21st. All shops, businesses and schoolsare closed in celebration of Romulus'foundation of the city.Fake Fact: MostRomans can trace their lineage back toJulius Caesar and his merry men. Morelikely, the true Roman is someone whocan trace his family heritage in Romeonly back seven generations.Bridge Fact:The Ponte Rosso is Rome's oldest bridgefrom the first century BC. It has beendamaged and repaired several times,but to no success. Even MichelangeloBuonarotti could not keep that bridge fromfalling down.Food Fact: Rome has an icecream shop,gelateria, on ever corner whichfeature flavors from traditionalcioccolato tomore fanciful tomato and basil. Everyonehas a favorite gelateria and everyonehas an opinion. Tanning Fact: Rome isapproximately 13 miles from the beach-Ostia- an easy and inexpensive train tripfor a quick tan- 20-minute and 1 euro viaATAC, Rome's public transport©


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Weather


Temperature C

Average High 13 14 16 18 23 26 29 30 26 22 17 14

Average Mean 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32

Average Low 4 4 6 8 12 16 18 19 16 13 9 6

Temperature F

Average High 5 56 60 64 73 79 84 85 79 72 63 57

Average Mean 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32

Average Low 39 40 43 47 54 61 65 66 62 56 48 42

Rainy Days 8 11 6 6 6 2 2 3 6 9 8 9

Rain Fall (cm) 3.8 3.7 3.2 5.2 2.7 1.7 1.2 1.4 4.1 8.9 6.2 5.6

Rain Fall (in) 1.5 1.5 1.3 2.0 1.0 0.7 0.5 0.5 1.6 3.5 2.5 2.2

© NileGuide

Venice Snapshot

44

Local InfoConnected by nearly 400 bridges over117 bodies of land and with 150 windingcanals to top it off, the City of Bridges is amyriad of waterways and cobblestone pathsthat will take you on an adorable journeythrough this fragment of Italy's uniquehistory. Traffic-free streets give the city anamazing air of quiet sophistication, markedby plazas and extraordinary Catholicchurches, it's no wonder Venice is one ofItaly's most sought-after travel destinations.

Along the northeast coast of Italy, in theregion of Veneto, the city of Venice isdivided in half by what you might call"MainStreet," a waterway known as the GrandCanal, a romantic lovers' paradise. Gondolataxis take visitors from one island toanother, often tagging on a little singing foran extra buck or two. Still, the price is worthit as this is one of the most unique citiesin the world which, despite huge influxesof tourists each year, maintains a sense ofdignity and culture unlike any other.

Multi-colored marble pillars and onion-like domes are hardly comparable whenit comes to the great basilicas of theworld and St. Mark's Basilica is a classic.Floor-to-ceiling mosaics and numerousmuseums along the main plaza are not tobe missed. Of course, feeding the pigeonsand snapping photos against this majesticbackdrop is an obligation for first timers.

Nearby at Murano Island you can takein the traditions of glass blowing with ademonstration performed by artisans whohave been passing down the techniquefor generations. Beautiful hand-madejewelry and sculpture are also available forpurchase for those who simply can't resist.

Further into the lagoon you'd best beadvised to literally get lost. Part of theexcitement of this city is exploration andthe best way to do it is simply by walking.Cross bridges, peek into antique stores,stop off for some delicious gelato, andsimply follow the winding paths. Few placesin the world are built to such a humanscale, allowing you to use your most basicmeans of transportation, your feet, to reallyappreciate the city.

Each year for 40 days preceding Easteris the world-famous Carnevale, in whichfestivities dating back to 1162 crowd thestreets and plazas with performers dawning

costumes and masks that will delight yourfantasies for years to come. Porcelain,leather, and feathers – these are thingsthat dreams are made of, and Venice fallsperfectly in line with these characteristics, adream waiting to be explored.© NileGuide

HistoryAccording to official historical accounts, oneof the first important events in the historyof Venice was the election of the first doge,a type of magistrate, by the Byzantines in697. His name was Paoluccio Anafesto.The domination of Byzantium is muchtalked about but has little factual basis.However, the city was already establishedin 811 when it moved to the Rivoalto,which is now called Rialto, from the islandsaround Torcello and Malamocco. AgnelloPartecipazio was the doge at this time. Theremains of San Marco were brought to thecity in 829, rescued by two fishermen.

The city had more or less taken on itscurrent appearance by 1000, when itwas governed by Pietro Tribun. Theordination of power took place in 1177,when Alessandro III met with the EmperorFederico, to negotiate relations betweenthe papacy, the council and the empire.However, in 1204 the situation changedwhen, after providing ships and equipmentfor the fourth crusade, Venice first receivedhelp to re-conquer Zara. This unusualcrusade started out to conquer Jerusalem,but ended up sharing out the remains ofthe Byzantine Empire; Venice won controlof a huge part of the spoils. Thanks to acommercial policy that also set up a strictmilitary stronghold, the territories becametheir rightful property.

The state evolved with the decree ofthe Great Council in 1297. This act onlypermitted citizens to participate in theCouncil if their ancestors had served on it.As a result the number of nobles in powerincreased which guaranteed, in theory,that they would continue to hold powereven if a rival faction took over. As a result,political struggles were poisoned by manyprivate feuds. According to Bartolo daSassoferrato, although it is true that thenobility were not much respected by thepeople, they had more respect than in othercities which were governed in the same

way. The population mostly accepted theirgovernment, and, as there was such alarge population, there were few internaldivisions. The majority were reasonablywell off, which meant that society was fairlystable.

Struggles with the Ligurian city of Genoawere a problem until a century later, in1380, after the war of Chioggia. At thispoint it was no longer a military obstacle,and even though they now had control ofthe eastern routes only commercial rivalryremained.

Events that took place around the middle ofthe 15th Century would change the fate ofthe Mediterranean forever. The expansionon the mainland, and the conquest of agreat part of Lombardy was the drivingforce in successive alliances to overthrowan overwhelming power, the first of whichwas the definitive fall of Constantinople tothe Turks. The trade routes, which were thebasis of the Italian states, became insecure,and mercantile trade started to decline.The final straw was the discovery of theAmerican continent. The Mediterraneanwas on the brink of becoming a kind of lakeunder the threat of the Ottoman Empire. Formany, it was the beginning of the end.

Although Venice had a somewhat overratedvictory at Lepanto, Cyprus fell and theloss of Crete in 1669 was the ultimateinsult. Thirty years later, Venice regainedpossession of Morea for a period of twentyyears. The Turkish wars ended in 1718with the overwhelming victory of the Turks.Venice then enjoyed its last century offreedom under the rule of the nobility; in1797, Napoleon handed it to Austria, afterfeigned negotiations. In 1805 he returned toVenice and completed the domination of thecity. The industrial structures were knockeddown and the city became a shadow ofits former self. In 1848-9, it was invadedagain by the Hapsburgs, and in 1866, it wasunited with the Kingdom of Italy.©

Hotel InsightsVenice attracts many different kinds ofpeople, who come here for many differentreasons. In comparison with other Italiancities,"hospitality" in Venice doesn't comecheap; this may be due to the romanticenvironment(Venice is known as one of

Venice Snapshot continued

45

world's"Cities of Love"), or the fact thatbecause Venice has a very particular setup, transport and services are much moreexpensive, making the hotels more costly.

Venice is crowded throughout the yearwith tourists; a word of advice; however, ifyou visit during the Carnevale or the FilmFestival, you need to book well in advance.If that doesn't ensure you a room, try thehotels in Treviso, Mestre or Padua.

San Marco

The hotels in this wonderful city have manydifferent qualities: some have historicalimportance, some offer the best service andsome have spawned Italian myths. Manylodgings in the vicinity of Piazza San Marcoperfectly fit this category. The Bauer Hotel,the Westin Europa& Regina, the HotelGritti Palace and the Hotel Monaco& GrandCanal are some of the best.

Dorsoduro

Are these places a little too pricey for you?There are accommodations with lowerprices and bags of charm in this primarilyresidential part of the city: PensioneSeguso and Pensione La Calcina. Theseare great options if looking to stay near themuseums and attractions.

Castello

Near these hotels is Venice's Youth Hostel.If this is full there are also hundreds ofrooms to rent(popular with students),economical boarding houses andestablishments run by religious orderse.g. Foresteria Valdese. If looking formore private accommodation withoutthe curfew(even though there isn't muchto do in Venice after 10p), the Hotel LaResidenza can offer guests the chance tobe close to all.

Lido

L'Hotel des Bains, in Lido, witnessed thedisastrous love felt by a middle-aged DirkBogarde in the filmDeath in Venice? Andthen there's the Westin Excelsior, whichhas played host to numerous internationalscreen stars during the annual FilmFestival. If looking for more affordableaccommodate away from the tourist-filledSan Marco and the Rialto, but still closeenough to all the sites and transportation,the Albergo Quattro Fontane is very popularduring Film Festival season and during thesummer months.

Outside the City

Still not found a place to suit you? More andmore people are choosing to stay in Mestre,just across the lagoon, which is servedby many buses and trains. If you chooseto stay here, the sense of romance maydecrease but so will the prices you pay, andrest assured, you'll find a wide choice ofcomfortable hotels.

If you don't mind the distance and you havea car, you could stay in Riviera del Brenta.There are several villas here, which havebeen transformed into princely residences.This area is also less expensive thanVenice.

If you like camping then you have to go toMestre, or Cavallino to pitch your tent orpark your caravan. The sites here are wellequipped and are linked to San Marco bymotorboats.©

Restaurants InsightsThe restaurants in Venice offer awide variety of cuisines, ranging frominternational fast food to five-star Italiandishes. Many of the specialties are seafoodbased, and there are excellent vegetablesin-season from the gardens of the Isoladi Sant'Erasmo. In autumn, look out fortheTorbolino: an immature Pinot Nerowhose arrival announces that winter is onits way.

For a light snack try an osteria or barwhich servescicchetti(meaning"a pick-me-up"), usually meatballs, fried vegetables,anchovies, olives and cured meats, or evena sandwich, whose delicious dough is madefrom the city water.

Rialto

There are many bars and osterie close tothe Rialto Market, which serve fresh food—they are subject to a quality control, whichis carried out daily by the local residents.Places like Da Pinto offer high-qualityVenetian dishes that cater to locals andtourists alike. Venice loves to have a gooddrink, as does the whole of the Venetoregion. There are many popular winebars that have become real institutions.Unnamed house wines of varying qualitycan be found everywhere; to be sure of agood bouquet try Do Mori. A few years ago

the Da Fiore, also in this area, was namedbest restaurant in the world.

San Marco

A lot of Venice's top-quality gourmetrestaurants can be found in San Marco, themost prestigious area of the city. Harry'sBar is a name to remember, as are DoForni and Antico Pignolo. One of the othercafes located in the piazza, famous for it'scoffees, teas, desserts and light lunches,Caffè Florian looks out onto the piazzaand offers an exquisite, unforgettableexperience.

Cannaregio, Santa Croce& San Polo

Situated near Piazzale Roma and theUniversity, off the tourist trail, Campo SantaMargherita is always reasonable. This areaconsists predominantly of pubs, bakeries,gelaterie(ice cream shops) and pizzerias,which cater for a mostly student clientèle.In summer it's the only area that stays openuntil late at night, much against the will ofthe elderly population in this district. Thisis also the"artistic" quarter, where actors,directors, architects, designers and a rangeof other artistic types hang out. Antico Dolois one of the most popular eateries that canbe found in these districts.©

Nightlife InsightsVenice is quite a sleepy city, especiallywhen you compare it to other major citiesof the world. There are several reasonsfor this. The first is the high average ageof its citizens is one of the highest in Italy.The second is the relative difficulty gettingaround. This is not a place for cars andother private means of transport, and aboat ride is not really ideal for an eveningout. Finally, there is a lack of space for newdevelopment in Venice.

Cannaregio

Besides, by nature Venetians do thingsdifferently. They enjoy entertaining friendsin the privacy of their own homes. Asa consequence, there are very fewrestaurants which stay open until late—to the point where going for somethingto eat after the cinema would be a majorfeat. It is only relatively recently that somerestaurants with live music have reopened:Il Paradiso perduto, in the Misericordiadistrict, is noted for its ambiance and itsendless disputes with local residents.


46

Dorsoduro& San Polo

Campo Santa Margherita in the summeris an exception to this rule. The presenceof hundreds of students on breaktransforms the square into a pleasurepavilion, with restaurants, live music andextemporaneous art exhibitions. Amongstthe most popular are those at MargaretDuchamp, the Caffè Rosso and Ai Sportivi.Another exception is during the Carnevalein February. In September, Campo SanPolo houses an open-air cinema, whereyou can sit under the stars and watchrecently films at the Biennale Cinema.

San Marco& Rialto

The opening seasons of the Teatro Goldoni,the operatic-symphonic Teatro La Feniceand the Malibran) attempt to shift thewinter-blues. For those who like a gamble,there are three Casinos: one on the CanalGrande, one in the Lido and the other inMestre by the airport.

Lido

Finally, there is the Lido—an island thatmakes this waterlogged city go bathing-mad. But even here, whether you like itor not, the emphasis is on Thomas Mann,rather than Maracaibo. The beach isextremely beautiful, but where it is mostbeautiful, it is also the most expensive.Where the sand runs out, towards theMurazzi islands, the water is dirty and thereare breakwaters.

Outside the City

In short, one will search in vain fornocturnal activities. There simply is notanything to do. However, if you reallycan't do without nightlife, you can drive toPiazzale Roma(a true Venetian would needa very good justification for doing so) andthen on to Jesolo.©

Things to Do InsightsA visit to Venice can last a few hours, manymonths, a few years or the rest of your life;it all depends on what you want to do. It'salso possible to take tours to Venice thatdwell more on the surrounding area, sincethe actual city is not that large.

Tour One: San Marco

The Basilica di San Marco at the heart ofthe city is a must see. There is little else

that illustrates the relationship betweenVenice and Byzantium so perfectly. Thecentral plan of the basilica is a Greek crosswith five large domes, one of which is atthe extremity of the cross, and one at thecrossing of the transept. The main façadelooks out over the Piazza San Marco, withfour portals that lead into the body of thechurch. There were originally five portals,but one, facing towards the Piazzetta, hasbeen transformed into a large window.Immediately next to the church, and inperfect harmony with its neighbor is thePalazzo Ducale. Built as a simple castle,this has evolved into a symbol of Italianarchitecture and engineering from theproto-modern period. It is home to art worksof exceptional importance, but unfortunatelyhas also lost many pieces to fire at differenttimes. On the other side of the Piazzettais the National Marciana Library, whichcontains treasures of Renaissance wisdomthat emerged in Venice when the city wasrelatively free of censorship. Many textsare marked as published in Argentina, butin reality they were the work of thousandsof Venetian printers, who produced themin secret. In the Counter-Reformation, theactivity of these printers helped to maintaina situation of free communication betweendifferent groups. The Museo Correr, whichis part of the circuit of city museums, isalso in Piazza San Marco. This museum isdedicated to the history and culture of thecity, but also contains other exhibits. Underthe Procuratie, and above the historicCaffè Florian, is the Museo Archeologico.The Greek community meets right behindSan Marco, in the Chiesa di San Giorgiodei Greci church, which is adjacent tothe museum of Byzantine Icons. In theFondaco dei Tedeschi at the foot of theRialto Bridge you will find the Post Office,while the National History Museum islocated in the Fondaco dei Turchi.

Tour Two: Castello and Dorsoduro

The Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoniwas started in the secular tradition ofthe city by the Dalmati, who defended itstrenuously until the fall of the Republic. Itnow holds the Carpaccio cycle, which is ofexceptional importance.

Art lovers shouldn't miss the Galleriedell'Accademia, by the bridge of the samename, which houses some treasures ofVenetian painting dating from the height ofits splendor in the 16th Century.

Tour Three: Cannaregio

Slightly off the traditional tourist route aresites belonging to ethnic and religiousminorities. The secular tolerance of theRepublic allowed the persecuted a placeto live peacefully in Venice. The Island ofSan Lazzaro degli Armeni is the centerof Armenian Diaspora culture, and thereis the Moorat Raphael Palace, near SanSebastian. Venice can also boast the firstghetto in history."Ghetto" is a Venetianword, derived from"getto," referring to thecast of foundries originally in the area, whomoved away for security reasons. Theword"getto" became"ghetto" since Jewishimmigrants from Germany had difficultypronouncing the Italian"g." A museum andsynagogues can be visited here.

Tour Four: The Islands

Don't miss out on a visit to the islands,which are an integral part of the city'shistory. Torcello was one of the first tobe settled; it was then abandoned as itbecame unhealthy. There is also Murano,home of blown glass, and Burano, an islandof colour and lace. Venice is not just a cityof stone, if you hire a boat(although youneed to be very specific about the boatyou want in a city surrounded by water!)you can cruise through areas of nature forhours in the northern lagoon near Burano.Sights to see include the Convento di SanFrancesco del Deserto and the valleys.Travelling southwards, you will come acrossChioggia and the lagoon of Cason dei settemorti(Lagoon of the Seven Dead). Enjoyoases of fauna, archaeological areas, andhidden islands.

Tour Five: Outside the City

Once back onterra firma, you can visitBrenta and its river, or take in its beautifulvillas. From Malcontenta up to Vicenzaand the Villa Capra Valmarana, Padovanarchitectural influences are visible. Pop intoPadua(10-30 minutes by train) if you wantand visit the Specola observatory, whichbelonged to Galileo, who worked for Veniceas a mathematician.©

Travel TipsGetting There

By Air


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The Marco Polo Airport(VCE)(+39 41 2606111/http://www.veniceairport.com) istucked inland, seven miles north of Venice.Major airlines include:

Aer Lingus(+1 800 474 7424/http://www.aerlingus.com)

Aeroflot(+1 888 686 4949/http://www.aeroflot.ru/eng)

Air Canada(+1 888 247 2262/http://www.aircanada.com)

Air Dolomiti(+39 045 2886140/http://www.airdolomiti.it)

Air France(+1 800 871 1366/http://www.airfrance.com)

Alitalia(+1 800 223 5730/http://www.alitalia.com)

Alpi Eagles(+39 049 979 35 11/http://www.alpieagles.com)

BMI(+1 800 788 0555/ http://www.flybmi.com)

British Airways(+1 800 247 9297/http://www.ba.com)

Cathay Pacific(+1 800 231 0856/http://www.cathaypacific.com)

Delta(+1 800 221 1212/http://www.delta.com)

Easy Jet(+871 244 2366/http://www.easyjet.com)

Finnair(+1 800 950 5000/http://www.finnair.com)

Iberia(+1 800 772 4642/http://www.iberia.com)

Jet 2(+44 207 150 0374/http://www.jet2.com)

KLM(+1 800 374 7747/http://www.lkm.nl)

Lufthansa(+1 800 645 3880/http://www.lufthansa.com)

Malev(+1 800 223 6884/http://www.malev.com)

My Air(+44 2073651597/http://www.myair.com)

Northwest(+1 800 225 2525/http://www.nwa.com)

Norwegian Air Shuttle(+47 21 49 00 15/http://www.norwegian.no)

Polish Airlines(+1 212 789 0970/http://www.lot.com)

SAS(+1 800 221 2350/http://www.flysas.com)

Sterling Airlines(+44 0870 787 8038/http://www.sterling.dk)

Swiss Airways(+1 877 359 7947/http://www.swiss.com)

TAP Portugal( +351 707 205 700/http://www.flytap.com)

Thomson Fly(+43 0192 89 598/http://www.thomsonfly.com)

United(+1 800 538 2929/ http://www.united.com)

US Airways(+1 800-622-1015/http://www.usairways.com)

Wind Jet(+39 899 65 65 05/http://www.volawindjet.it)

ATVO(+39 041 541 5180) Connectspassengers between Marco Polo Airportand Piazzale Roma in Venice. Line 35-ATVO Air Terminal(blue buses) departevery 20-30 minutes and rides takeabout 20 minutes. Fares: EUR3 one-way,EUR5.50 roundtrip. Hours: 05:00-24:20.

ACTV(+39 041 541 5180) Line 5 departsevery 30 minutes and lasts 20 minutes.Because its fares are cheaper these busestend to be crammed with commuters,making it very cumbersome to carry andstow luggage. Fares: EUR 1. Hours:04:05-11:10.

Alilaguna(+39 041 240 1701) The Bluline goes from Marco Polo Airport to SanMarco. Rides last 60-75 minutes. Fares:EUR 12. Hours: 4:00-24:10.

Yellow taxis(+39 041 541 6363) are easy tolocate outside the terminal. Rides last 15-20minutes and generally cost EUR 40.

Water taxis, or motoscafi(+39 041 5222303), can be found at the main dock justoutside the airport's arrival hall to the left.Rides last 40 minutes and are expensive,starting at EUR 80 for two riders. Expect topay supplements for baggage and groupsexceeding four riders. Credit cards are notaccepted.

Rental Car Companies

Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com)

Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/http://www.hertz.com)

Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/http://www.europcar.com)

By Train

Italy's national train company,Trenitalia(http://www.trenitalia.com), servesVenice's Santa Lucia Station(+39 041 5245346) daily. All trains to and from SantaLucia stop at Mestre on the mainland.

By Bus

Italy lacks a national bus company,consequently independent bus lines onlyservice their respective regions. If youtravel cross-continent ride a Euroline(http://www.euroline.com) bus to Milan. Fromthere, board an ATVO bus(+39 041 5205530/http://www.atvo.it) to Venice's busstation at Piazzale Roma.

By Car

Autostrada 4(A4) originates in Trieste to theeast and continues past Venice to Milan inthe west. The Ponte della Liberta connectsthe mainland with Venice.

Getting Around

By Gondola

Gondolas, the symbol of Venice, are easyto locate but eye-popping expensive(a50 minute ride starts at EUR 70). Makesure you agree to a price before boardingand don't be shy about haggling over thefare: most gondoliers initially ask for twicethe going rate. Try to avoid low tide whenrancid odors peak and, if possible, ridelate afternoon or early evening when theGrand Canal's boat traffic significantlysubsides. San Marco(+39 041 520 0685)and Rialto(+39 041 522 4904) are two ofthe more prominent gondola stands.

By Traghetti

If regular gondola fares exceed your budgetconsider boarding a traghetto. These two-man gondolas ferry people across theGrand Canal for only EUR 0.50. Rides lastbut a few minutes.

By Waterbus

ACTV's waterbuses, or vaporetti, offerseveral lines that cover the entire lengthof the Grand Canal. A 60 minute ticketcosts EUR 6. Or opt for the popular 24-hourtourist ticket for EUR 15. Hours: 6:00-21:00,some run 24 hours. Spiffy lookingpowerboats known as motoscafi(+39 041522 2303) offer quick maneuverability but


48

charge a stiff price. For just a short rideacross the Grand Canal they've been toknown to charge as much as EUR 120.

By Foot

Walking is the best and most popularmeans for exploring Venice. There are nocars to dodge and Venice's 409 bridgesmake it possible to walk from end-to-end in35 minutes.

By Car

Cars can cross the Ponte della Liberta(thesmall stretch of road that connects Venicewith the mainland) but must then endurethe impossible task of finding parking in oneof Venice's two main garages. It is best toeither park on the mainland in Mestre andcross on a bus or boat, or phone monthsin advance to reserve a parking spot. Calleither Garage San Marco(+39 041 5235101) or Isola Del Tronchetto(+39 041 5207555).

By Bicycle

Bicycles are not permitted in Venice.©

Fun FactsVenice

Country: Italy

Venice by the Numbers:

Population: 62,000; 1,600,000 Padova-Venice metro area

Land Area: 177 square miles

Average Annual Rainfall: 34 inches

Average January Temperature: 38 degreesF/ 3 degrees C

Average July Temperature: 75 degrees F/23 degrees C

Quick Facts:

Major Industry: Tourism

Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; standard two-pin plugs

Time Zone: GMT+ 1

Country Dialing Code: 39

Area Code: 041

Did You Know?

Venice is built on 117 islands, features 150canals and over 400 bridges.

Orientation:

Venice is situated in Italy's northeast cornerknown as the Veneto region, just off thecoast in the Adriatic Sea. Trieste rests 97miles to the east, Milan 165 to the west,and Rome 327 miles to the southwest.©

Weather


Temperature C

Average High 6 8 12 16 21 25 27 28 23 18 11 7

Average Mean 3 4 8 12 17 20 23 23 19 14 8 4

Average Low 0 0 4 8 13 16 18 18 15 10 5 1

Temperature F

Average High 44 47 55 62 71 77 82 83 75 65 53 46

Average Mean 38 40 47 54 63 69 74 74 67 58 47 40

Average Low 32 33 40 47 56 62 66 65 59 51 41 35

Rainy Days 6 6 7 9 8 8 7 7 5 7 9 8

Rain Fall (cm) 2.1 2.4 2.4 5.4 4.7 5.5 5.1 3.8 4.6 5.9 4.6 3.0

Rain Fall (in) 0.8 0.9 0.9 2.1 1.9 2.2 2.0 1.5 1.8 2.3 1.8 1.2

© NileGuide

Documents

Venice and Beyond - Luxury Link · Piazza San Polo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. For dinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina. San Polo One of the most famous squares in