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  • 5/8/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks" - of Faces and Fingers

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    Origins is famous for its plant-based skincare products, and indeed the

    brand was one of the first mainstream brands to heavily market itself as a

    natural skincare brand. Chances are, you've probably heard of any of their

    skincare ranges, with really cute names like Plantidote, A Perfect World, or

    GinZing. Despite being around since 1990, the brand is fairly new to me.

    I've never tried anything from the brand, so it was some interest that I

    started testing out their Mega-Mushroom skincare range.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f: Mushrooms and lots of other

    p lants to the rescue!

    The Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range is a plant-based range and advertises

    itself as such, so I thought a quick summary of the science on 1)the oils in

    skincare in general, and 2) the oils in the product range, may help to set

    the stage.

    Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review

    and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks

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    The Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f range has a grand total

    of seven products to su it all pre ferences.

    First things first: A re Oils in Skincare Clogging to MySkin? What Do They Do I n Skincare, Anyway?

    I thought this section was necessary as sometimes people think that

    applying oils to your skin can clog your skin. This is not totally unfounded.

    As I wrote in a previous skincare review, generally, oils with oleic acid

    (coconut and argan oil are two examples of oils that are high in oleic acid)

    tend to be more clogging than oils that are lower in oleic acid. This in turn

    means that how clogging your plant-oil-containing skincare is, depends very

    much on the type of oils included. Fortunately, most of the common oils

    found in skincare, such as jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and grape seed oil,

    aren't that high in oleic acid, so it's not likely that they will clog your skin.

    (Of course, if you experience otherwise, stop immediately.)

    Chemical structure of the three most common fatty acids in

    commonly-used skincare oils(Image source)

    So, now that not all plant oils are a cause for alarm, what are these oils

    doing in skincare, anyway? Most oils have an emollient effect, as they

    smooth the surface of the skin. They also form some sort of barrier function,

    preventing water loss from the skin (known as TEWL, or transepidermal

    water loss). A high rate of TEWL is often associated with dry skin (obviously,

    because the more water your skin loses, the drier it becomes), so lots of

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    skincare products are dedicated to reducing TEWL. Additionally, there is

    some evidence that acne-prone skin is usually deficient in linoleic acid, so

    one theory is that if your plant oils are rich in linoleic acid, then it could

    help to alleviate acne by replenishing the deficient linoleic acid. In theory,

    you could probably pick an oil (or a mix of oils) that have fairly high linoleic

    acid content and lower oleic acid content, and those oils shouldn't make

    acne worse. Some oils that have this property include Hemp Seed Oil,

    Evening Primrose Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, and Borage

    Seed Oil.

    Some oils also have other benefits, primarily an anti-oxidant effect. For

    example, jojoba seed oil can have anti-oxidant effects, and grape seed oil is

    often touted as an anti-oxidant, which is why these oils are so popular. For

    people who really love their facial oils, some may like to use only one in the

    belief that it is best for their skin type, but others like to mix a couple of oils

    to try to get a bunch of benefits from the oils combined (e.g. high linoleic

    acid, with some anti-oxidant properties, while feeling relatively lightweight,

    etc.).

    So as you might guess from this summary, oils, even while lots of people

    love them, are quite a personal thing - it really depends on your skin's own

    fatty acid content, as well as what the user wants out of the product, and

    the skinfeel of the product (because some oils can feel quite heavy on the

    skin too).

    The bottom line :

    1) Not all oils clog your skin. It depends on the fatty acid content

    in the oil: the higher the amount of ole ic acid in the oil, the

    more clogging it is, while oils rich in linole ic acid could actually

    benefit skin types prone to acne. It also depends on your skin 's

    own reaction to the oils, of course .

    2) The benefits that oils bring to skincare are the ability to leave

    an emollient layer on your skin, reducing TEWL (water loss from

    the skin) and thus reducing one of the main causes of skin

    dryness.

    3) Additionally, some oils can have other ancillary benefits when

    used in skincare , such as anti-oxidant e ffects.

    What About the Oils in the Origins Mega-MushroomSkin R elief Skincare R ange?

    The most common oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief skincare

    range are Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil and Carthamus Tinctorius

    (Safflower) Seed Oil, by far. These appear near the top in almost all the

    ingredients list for every product in the range, with the main exceptions

    being the Eye Serum, the Face Cream, and the Face Lotion. So I thought it

    might be good to take a little bit more of a look at whether there were any

    benefits conferred by both oils, since, after all, they are a fairly major

    component in the product range.

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    A comparison of the fatty acid content of some common oils in

    our d iet. Safflower and O live are both included as we ll. (Image

    source)

    For olive oil, in addition to the usual emollient benefits that plant oils

    confer, there is some evidence that The high level of squalane from olive oil

    in some products protects the skin's sensitive lipids, and that high

    concentration of plant peptides protects the peptide bonds of the skin

    proteins. There's also some evidence that olive oil protects against some

    UVB damage, possibly through its antioxidant effects. So while I wouldn't

    recommend using olive oil as sunscreen wholesale, it's good to know that

    there is some proof of its anti-oxidant effects. Additionally, olive oil does

    have some anti-inflammatory compounds, so although stronger proof exists

    of olive oil's anti-inflammatory properties when consumed (i.e. eaten), it's

    possible that when applied topically, there will be some anti-inflammatory

    benefits as well. The anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects that olive oil

    has comes from the phenolics in the oil, namely oleuropein and

    hydroxytyrosol.

    Safflower Seed Oil, on the other hand, had less data available. It does have

    emollient properties, and it also seems to be fairly high in linolenic acid,

    although whether this translates into benefits on the skin is a little

    debatable - you could reasonably expect it to work on skin (after all,

    replenishing your skin's sebum doesn't require very much penetration into

    the lower layers of the skin), but not all studies show this effect. While

    there isn't too much other information on safflower oil or safflower seed oil

    directly, it is quite similar in composition to sunflower oil, for which there is

    a bit more research. Sunflower oil has fairly high levels of tocopherol

    (Vitamin E), so it's a good balance to olive oil, which has a much lower

    tocopherol content than seed oils. On another note, it seems that safflower

    seed oil seems to be promoted by some sites online as part of a "healthier"

    diet - perhaps this also stems from its similarity to sunflower oil. There is

    also some evidence that sunflower oil might help atopic dermatitis even

    more than olive oil, and the same goes for sunflower seed oil.

    So as far as olive oil and safflower seed oil go, so far so good. I don't think

    there is too much reason to be concerned there. Some of the other oils

    that also appear in the product, however, might be a greater concern for

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    other users, depending on how sensitive they are to fragrant oils.

    Essential oils - not just in cosmetics! (Image source)

    Some of the minor oils that make an appearance in small amounts are

    Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia

    (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin

    Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, and

    Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil. These are mainly used as fragrances in

    cosmetics, and the science on these oils are mixed. On the one hand, there

    is some limited evidence that some of these oils have some benefits, such

    as orange oil having anti-microbial effects, or lavender oil having wound-

    healing benefits, or patchouli having some preventive effects against UV

    radiation. But the evidence for some of this is quite limited - I could only

    find a single study in all the above-mentioned cases, in contrast to the

    greater amount of studies done on olive and safflower/sunflower oil. I

    usually prefer if I can find multiple studies with conclusion that are in line

    with each other, because it indicates that the results are repeatable (i.e.

    the original result was not some sort of one-off fluke). And, on the other

    hand, some of these fragrant oils can be irritating for some people,

    especially in high concentrations. For example, lavender oil can be an

    irritant, although not all essential oils are irritants - for example geranium is

    fairly low on the irritancy list. So I'd say, it's possible that for some people

    they can work, but for others, they just trigger all sorts of skin reactions. My

    assessment would be to go ahead cautiously (e.g. with a test patch) and

    see how it works for you.

    So as far as the plant oils go? The two ones that are present in the largest

    amounts, Olive Oil and Safflower Seed Oil, don't seem to be a problem for

    most people, but depending on your skin type and sensitivity, some of the

    other fragrant oils might trigger some reaction. So test patch or get a

    sample if you think you might have skin that might be sensitive to some of

    these oils, but other people might see benefit from them.

    The bottom line :

    1) The two main oils present in the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f

    range in larger amounts are olive oil and safflower seed oil. Other

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    oils that are present in much smalle r amounts are sweet orange

    oil, lavender oil, patchouli oil, mandarin orange pee l oil, geranium

    oil, and olibanum oil.

    2 ) The two main oils, olive oil and safflower seed oil, confer

    emollient benefits when used on skin. Additionally, olive oil could

    confer anti- inflammatory and anti-oxidant e ffects as we ll.

    Safflower oil has a fair leve l of linole ic acid, and could confer

    anti-oxidant properties.

    3) The rest of the lesser oils are primarily used as fragrances in

    cosmetics. The science is mixed, with some studies showing these

    oils to have beneficial e ffects, e .g. anti-microbial or wound-

    healing benefits, while other studies raise concerns that such oils

    cn be irritating for some others. The effect of these oils may

    depend on your skin type, so if you get the chance to, a test

    patch is a good idea.

    My Top Three Picks From The Mega-Mushroom SkinR elief R ange

    The Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range, because it uses primarily the

    same plant-based oils and extracts for the bulk of most of its products, ends

    up with somewhat similar formulations from product to product within the

    range. In some ways, this is a good thing - it means that if you've tried one

    product in the range, and really like it, chances are, you'll like the entire

    range. But which product should you start off with, if you're just dipping

    your toes into the range and don't want to buy everything at once? Ahh,

    decisions, decisions. Fortunately, after trying the entire range, here are my

    top three picks! (If you want to know more about other products in the

    range, do feel free to leave a comment, but to keep this post from getting

    too long, I'll just focus on my favourites for now).

    First, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum: Similar

    to the Soothing Face Lotion, with emollients and p lant extracts.

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    Take a look at the ingredients list:

    Water, Jojoba Seed Oil, Glycerin, Yeast Extract, Olive Fruit Oil,

    Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Meadowfoam Seed

    Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,

    Orange Oil, Lavender Oil, Patchouli)Oil, Mandarin Orange Peel Oil,

    Geranium Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil, Geraniol,

    Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Pleurotus Ostreatus (Mushroom)

    Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Inonotus

    Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract,

    Ginger Root Extract Turmeric Root Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis

    Extract, Mango Leaf Extract, Evening Primrose Oil, Sunflower Seed

    Oil, Grapefruit Peel Extract, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Olive Fruit

    Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Spike Moss Extract,

    Wheat Bran Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Shea Butter,

    Mango Seed Butter, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Dimethicone,

    Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Corn Oil, Tocotrienols,

    Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate,

    Calcium Carbonate, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

    The first thing you'll notice is the plant oils and extracts that I've mentioned.

    There really are a lot of them, and Origins seems to have formulated with

    them in fairly high concentrations, which is good if that's the main reason

    you're buying the product. Other than the plant extracts, you'll find

    primarily humectants (Glycerin), emollients (Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic

    Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin). Once again, the primary benefit of

    this, other than the plant extracts, is the skin-conditioning benefits, and

    hydration.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Advanced Face Serum: A lso

    similar to the Soothing Face Lotion in fee l and application.

    So, when I used this product, I was expecting it to be quite thick or heavy,

    given how many emollients were in there. Surprisingly, it was more like a

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    light gel, which absorbed fast. It's moisturizing enough that I didn't feel like I

    had to use another product over it, but if you live in a dry or cold climate

    you might wish to do so anyway because this light lotion alone may not be

    sufficient. The Advanced Face Serum is somewhat similar to the Soothing

    Face Lotion in terms of look and feel, so if you liked one, you'll probably liek

    the other.

    Another of my picks from the range is the Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f

    Soothing Face Cream. This is the only cream-in-a-jar type product, with

    the rest all being packaged in squeeze tubes or pump bottles.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Soothing Face Cream: A face

    cream that's rich in emollients and humectants to moisturize your

    skin.

    Here are the ingredients:

    Water, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Water,

    Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Water, Myrtus Communis

    (Myrtle) Leaf Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristyl

    Myristate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate,

    Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2,

    Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hypsizygus Ulmarius

    (Mushroom) Mycelium Extract, Inonotus Obliquus (Chaga

    Mushroom) Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Yeast Extract

    (Faex), Menyanthes Trifoliata (Buckbean) Leaf Extract, Sigesbeckia

    Orientalis (St. Paul's Wort) Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus

    Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Lavandula

    Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil,

    Citrus Reticulata (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium

    Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum)

    Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Glycine Soja

    (Soybean) Sterols, Silybum Marianum (Lady's Thistle) Extract,

    Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat

    Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein,

    Calluna Vulgaris (Heather) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Bran)

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    Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive)

    Fruit Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate,

    Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter, Adenosine Phosphate, Linoleic

    Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate,

    Pantethine, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Trehalose, Glycerin,

    Lecithin, Cholesterol, Ceteareth-20, Dextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose,

    Cellulose, Potassium Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer,

    Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin,

    Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Titanium Dioxide

    This has mostly plant extracts, but other than that, you have emollients

    (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl

    Alcohol, Stearic Acid) and humectants (Butylene Glycol), as well as a few

    emulsifiers (PEG-100 Stearate) to make sure everything doesn't separate.

    Myristyl Myristate is interesting - it's an ester that is added to products to

    make them feel velvety on the skin, and while most people should be fine

    with it, I've sometimes had some issues with those in the past (namely, I've

    had products with those ingredients breaking me out), so I tend to prefer

    products without the ingredient. Interestingly, this is the only product in

    the range with Myristyl Myristate, perhaps because of its comparatively

    thicker texture. If you're concerned about it, you can test patch, but I think

    most people should be fine.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Soothing Face Cream: A balm-

    like , h ighly emollient face cream suitab le for dry skin, with p lant

    extracts.

    When I used it, I found that the Soothing Face Cream felt oily and liquid-

    like rather than creamy. Maybe "oily" isn't quite the right word - my best

    description of this would be perhaps, like some sort of face balm or facial

    oil. It's not really the light, creamy emulsions we've come to expect

    nowadays. Think of it as a cross between a face oil and a cream, and you

    more or less have the texture. If you let it sit for a few minutes, it should all

    sink in, and you can go on to the next step in your skincare routine. This

    feels quite luxurious when used, because of its balmy texture, and I can

  • 5/8/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks" - of Faces and Fingers

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    imagine people probably preferring it as a night-time cream.

    Now, the lone eye product in the Mega-Mushroom range, which is the

    Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum. Out of the 7 products in the

    Mega-Mushroom range, this is the only one for the eye.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum: An eye serum

    with emollients and humectants.

    Since you've seen the ingredients list for the previous two products, you'll

    probably know what to expect this time round:

    Water, Myrtus Communis (Myrtle) Leaf Water, Anthemis Nobilis

    (Chamomile) Flower Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Yeast Extract,

    Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 40, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate,

    Silica, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,

    Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Cordyceps

    Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root

    Extract, Ocimum Sanctum (Holy Basil) Leaf Extract, Selaginella

    Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange)

    Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin

    (Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil,

    Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii

    (Olibanum) Oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Vitis Vinifera

    (Grape) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Curcuma

    Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel

    Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Prunus

    Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Silybum Marianum

    (Lady's Thistle) Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed

    Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse

    Chestnut) Bark Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Perilla

    Ocymoides Seed Extract, Glycerin, Adenosine Phosphate,

    Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Tromethamine, Tribehenin, Myristyl

    Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Linoleic

    Acid, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Creatine, Dextrin, Coleus

    Barbatus Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate,

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    Phytosphingosine, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin,

    Sorbic Acid

    Ingredients-wise, this is full of emollients (Cetyl Ricinoleate is the main one,

    but there are others like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), and humectants

    (Butylene Glycol primarily, but you can also see things like Sodium

    Hyaluronate and Glycerin). There are also a couple of silicones (Methyl

    Trimethicone, Dimethicone) which in this case also function primarily as

    emollients. Of course, there are emulsifiers (Polysorbate 4, PEG-100

    Stearate) which is necessary in any product combining oil and water. Again,

    as with the face products, the main draw of this product would be the plant

    extracts, because the remainder of the formulation is pretty stripped-down,

    with Origins choosing to let the plant oils and extracts take center stage.

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Eye Serum: A light but

    emollient eye cream.

    The first thing I noticed when I used the Skin Relief Eye Serum was that it

    doesn't have the citrus-y, linanool-like scent that I found all the other

    products in the range to have so far. Perhaps this is because it's formulated

    for the eye area, and they wanted to keep it suitable for the eye. I couldn't

    really place the scent of this - it was more subtle (perhaps mushroom-y

    might be a way to describe it), but in any case, after application there isn't

    any scent. And as expected, with the emolliency of the product, I felt like it

    did moisturize my eye area. It feels more thin and balmy (like a lighter

    version of a facial oil) than thick and creamy however, once you rub it in,

    and after a few seconds it absorbs fairly fast.

  • 5/8/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks" - of Faces and Fingers

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    (Product was sent for review. Review is my complete and honest opinion. I am not affiliated

    Orig ins Mega-Mushroom Skin Re lie f Range: Best for dry skin that

    needs some he lp repairing the barrie r function.

    So, what's my overall view on the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range? First

    off, I have to say that I don't think I'm the target audience for this line of

    products - they are really quite emollient, and seem formulated for

    someone with drier skin than I do. So I'd say you'll probably like this best if

    you have dry skin to start off with, not my combination/acne-prone skin.

    People with aging skins might also like this, because skin tends to get drier

    as it ages. Also, another thing that I really respected about the product was

    its commitment to its advertising - it advertises itself as a natural, plant-

    based product, and sure enough, the ingredients are indeed comprised

    largely of plant extracts. That impressed me on its own because I've seen

    lots of brands advertise themselves as being "natural", yet when you look

    the ingredients list, it's clear that the plant extracts come in below the

    preservative line, at levels of less than 0.1%. So to be fair, if you're looking

    for a brand that lives up to its marketing, then this is also worth checking

    out. In all, I'd say if you 1) have dry skin 2) like plant-based skincare and can

    tolerate plant extracts/oils in your products, and 3) want a brand that lives

    up to its marketing, this is worth checking out.

    RE COMME NDE D? FORMULATION PACKAG INGE ASE OF

    USEE FFE CTIVE NE SS

    DE PE NDS ON SKIN

    SE NSITIVITY 7/10 8/10 8/10 7/10

    THE BOTTOM LINE: THIS IS PROBABLY A LOVE-IT-OR-HATE-IT TYPE PRODUCT, WITH ITS HEAVYUSAGE OF PLANT OILS AND EXTRACTS. IF YOUHAVE DRY SKIN THAT SUITS THOSE TYPES OF

    INGREDIENTS, THEN YOU'LL FIND THIS A GREATWAY TO MOISTURIZE YOUR SKIN, WITH SOME

    ADDITIONAL BENEFITS.

  • 5/8/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis, and My Top 3 Picks" - of Faces and Fingers

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    P OW ER ED B Y B LOGGER . DES IGN B Y LINGYDES IGN

    with/compensated by the company.)

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    Cleanser, Eye Cream, Face Mask, Ingredients Analysis, Lotion, Moisturizer, Origins, Serum, Skincare,

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