Uzbekistan The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar - Ageless Traveler

UzbekistanThe Silk Road & Beyond

and Asrlar Sadosi

The Ageless Traveler™www.TheAgelessTraveler.com

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and Asrlar Sadosi



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Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond The Ageless Traveler™

Copyright 2013 by Adriane G. Berg. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. Excerpt as permitted under the United StatesCopyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a data base orretrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

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The views, opinions and ideas expressed in this book are solely those of the author. They are not necessarily those of any organization,corporation, entity or person with whom the author presently has, in the past has had, or may in the future have, a business connection,including: The Government of Uzbekistan and The Fund Forum Uzbekistan.

This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. All information in thebook is the property of Adriane G. Berg or the information providers and is protected by copyright and intellectual property laws. You may notreproduce, re-transmit, disseminate, sell, publish, broadcast, or circulate the information or material in this book without the express writtenconsent of Adriane G. Berg or the other information providers herein.

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The Ageless Traveler™ Presents:

Uzbekistan

The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar Sadosi 2013Table of Contents

Acknowledgments 4The Fund Forum 5The Ageless Traveler 5Uzbekistan – Geography 7Uzbekistan – A Brief History for Travelers 9

Places to Visit 11

Tashkent 11Bukhara 13Samarkand 15Khiva 18Nukus 21Shakhrisabz 23

The FESTIVAL OF ASRALAR SADOSI 26

Food Fest 30Shopping & Fashion Fest 33People Watching 34

Create a Joyful Adventure 37

The Ageless Traveler™ Health Hints and Tips 40

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Acknowledgments

We would like to thank:

Gulnara Karimova, Founder and Chair of the Board of Trustees, Forum of Cultureand Arts of Uzbekistan Foundation.

The UNESCO Office in Uzbekistan for their tireless work in that nation.

Dr. Durbek Amanov, Consul General of Uzbekistan in New York, whosegraciousness made us comfortable in our journey and ready to return toUzbekistan at a moment’s notice.

Zulya Rajabova, America’s greatest Ambassador to Uzbekistan and Founder ofSilk Road Treasure Tours, in New Jersey, without whom we would never havediscovered Uzbekistan.

And all the wonderful young people who acted as guides, all of whom becameour friends. “See you on Facebook”.

All those numerous volunteers, staff and performers at Asrlar Sadosi.

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The Fund ForumAs the Ageless Traveler™ touring Uzbekistan you will benefit from theworkings of an organization called the Fund Forum, but more formallyknown as the Forum of Culture and Arts of Uzbekistan Foundation. ThisNGO has the formidable goal of supporting local science, culture,education, sports and arts as well as the Uzbekistan entrepreneurial spirit,

and traditional legacies.

It engages public figures , not only from within the country, but from all over the world anduses young talent as avid volunteers to nurture every aspect of the organization, as well as toprepare themselves to flourish and mature in business, art, learning and global culture.

The founder and trustee of the Fund Forum is Harvardeducated Ms. Gulnara Karimova, philanthropist, diplomatand doctor of political sciences.

From festivals to fashion weeks, from UNESCO restorationsto publishing, the Fund Forum is ubiquitous inpromoting Uzbekistan’s arts, literature and businessdevelopment. It has offices in Moscow, New York, Beijing,Tokyo, Paris, Vienna, Geneva, Madrid, Berlin, Vienna, and London.

The Fund Forum is instrumental in creating festivals like Asrlar Sadosi-Echo ofthe Centuries, which you will read about later on, which in 2013 attractedvisitors from 65 countries this year alone.

The Fund Forum acts very much like a combination of a Ministry of Tourism, Ministry of Cultureand Sports, and a Ministry of Economic Development, all in one.

The Ageless Traveler™

The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy is devoted to assuring that you and yourloved ones can travel anywhere, anytime and at any age. Ourmission is to empower you to be a lifelong traveler with theknow-how, tools, products and resources which lead to theexperiences you crave. Read our full story at

www.TheAgelessTraveler.com .

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The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy is the consumer division of Ageless TravelerConsulting, www.AgelessTravelerConsulting.com , a marketing, branding and strategic allianceconsultancy that advises the hospitality industry on how to build, staff, and create experiencesthat attract the boomer and older adult. Clients include hotels, spas, tourist boards, CVB's,restaurants and tour packagers who seek to attract boomers or older adults for business orleisure travel.

The Authors: Adriane Berg & Stuart Bochner

Founders of The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy

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Uzbekistan – Geography

The Republic of Uzbekistan is located in the middle of CentralAsia , between the rivers Amudarya and Sirdarya. The capitalof the country is Tashkent , located at the east of the republic.It is bordered by Turkmenistan in the west, Kazakhstan in thenorth and in the east, Kirgizistan and Tadjikistan and a small

part of Afghanistan in the south. The territory of the republic is 447.4 sq. Km, and it is dividedinto 12 main administrative centers and semi-autonomous Republic of Karakalpakistan.

The country is about one-tenth larger in area than the state of California.

Uzbekistan is a dry, landlocked country of which 11% consists of intensely cultivated, irrigatedriver valleys. More than 60% of its population lives in densely populated rural communities.

Geographers say it's "doubly landlocked," that is, surrounded by other landlocked countries.The only other doubly landlocked country is Liechtenstein. Independent since 1991, it has

recently seen robust economic growth with lowunemployment.

There are Turan Lowland in the northwest, and Tien-Shan and Pamir-Alay mountain ridges in the southeastof the territory. Kyzyl-Kum Desert is in the North.Mostly flat-to-rolling sandy desert with dunes; broad,flat intensely irrigated river valleys along course of

Amu Darya, Sirdaryo (Syr Darya), and Zarafshon; Fergana Valley in east surrounded bymountainous Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan; shrinking Aral Sea in west.

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Two thirds of the country, mainly in the west, consist of steppes and deserts, are stopped onlyby the delta of Amoudarya, which flows in the Aral sea . The relief is pronounced a little more inthe east, towards the mountains situated in the countries bordering where the sources of therivers irrigating the country. The most significant river of the Central Asia, Amoudarya mainlyacts as a natural border with Turkmenistan and Afghanistan . The most fertile grounds, wherethe majority of the population live, are located in the valleys, near the alluvial plains and of thethree rivers, Amoudarya, Syrdarya and Zerafshan.

Uzbekistan is now the world's second-largest cotton exporter, a large producer of gold andnatural gas, and a regionally significant producer of chemicals and machinery.

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Uzbekistan – A Brief History for Travelers

In the year 1360 Amir Temur defeated theMongol armies in Central Asia and thenbecame the governor of a huge territory. Hewaged successful military initiatives in Iran,Khorezm (now a region of Uzbekistan), theGolden Horde and the caucuses to amass awide Empire.

Prior to his death his diverse civil/militaryagenda included plans to both march onChina and stimulate the Renaissance of theMiddle East. It was under his reign thatSamarkand and the Silk Road flourished. This

was so because Amir Temur was not just a military genius but also a great entrepreneur.

He formed a one-man Small Business Association when he decided to bankroll the merchants ofhis empire . He understood the importance of trade to his expansion and power. Within theAmir Temur Empire borders lie today’s major cities of the Legendary Silk Road, where Uzbek,Russian, Tajik, as well as English and a polyglot of languages are spoken.

Uzbekistan is now home to modern commerce as evidenced by the growth of itscapital, Tashkent . But, for the traveler it is the lure of the exotic, the ancient andthe romantic sites of Bukhara, Khiva, and Samarkand that transports us back tothe Days of the Silk Road and Spice Road and channels our inner Marco Polo.

The Silk Road is not a single road, but many roads that were traversed by those from Europe,Central and Eastern Asia, and which eventually created a mingling of Western and Easternculture and practices which are very much alive today. No wonder that the iconic cities ofBukhara, Khiva , Samarkand and the capital Tashkent are a treasure trove of madressahs(schools), mosques, minarets and UNESCO sites.

When you go, take an empty suitcase and a curious spirit. It's easy to have the Explorer mindsetas in days gone by, and open up new roads of discovery with foods, spices, silks, andembroideries that were acknowledged as the finest in past civilizations. Envision the ancientpeople from Persia, Europe, Turkey, the Middle East, China all coming for one purpose, toevolve from primitive man to modern man through the path of spiritual, commercial andscientific discovery.

For The Ageless Traveler™, Uzbekistan is a time machine through which you will gradually roll

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back the centuries in gentle steps, from disco loving modern Tashkent until you reach the timeof Shem, Noah's son, purported to have built a well at Khiva.

As for modern times, in 1991 a quiet revolution removed the Soviets who had occupied andgoverned the country since the time of the Civil War in the United States.

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Places to VisitTashkent

Admittedly, you will miss the heart of Uzbekistan if you stay only in this modern capital. But, weloved Tashkent and would recommend it for its beauty, history and taste of the Silk Roadculture.

Earthquake Square – in 1966 Tashkent was nearly demolished by anearthquake and then rebuilt according to Soviet style architecturaldesign. The statue commemorating the earthquake and the rebuilding ofthe city is impressive with its craggy corruptions and larger-than-lifeheroic figures.

The Ageless Traveler™ familiar with East Berlin or St. Petersburg will recognize the wideboulevards, impressive plantings and the modern bustle of the city. One of our favoriteexplorations was the Metro which is the only one in Central Asia. It boasts 29 stations allornately designed by Uzbekistani artisans. It's one of the few placesthat you still cannot take a photograph because it is considered amilitary property. Our favorite 30 cent ride was from the CosmonautStation to the Main Government Plaza. Glass sculptures, craftsmenchandeliers worthy of Frank Lloyd Wright, and Terrazzo floors meldwith the recognizable Soviet style grays and blues and solemnity ofthe atmosphere.

Personal Highlights

The Mosque where the oldest Koran is displayed, the Museum of Applied Arts , the old city withits straw and mud walls will enchant you. I recommend that you visit the Historical Museum atthe outset to understand the history of the Silk Road which will be very instructive on yourjourney throughout Uzbekistan.

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For our part, we had a special fondness for strolling through the parks, enjoying the horse-drawn rides, and people watching in Independence Square, and viewing the Spirit of the World

Statue.

We were tickled by the street calledBroadway. And did some damage buying atthe great Chorsu market. Although weshopped throughout our trip, I recommendbuying at Chorsu for its price and selectionand for the fun and variety of its "foodcourt .” It is here you will see the diversityof European, Chinese, Korean, Russian,Turkish, Latvian, US and Uzbek people inevery day, yet, traditional dress.

You'll also see why the Silk Road is also called the Spice Road.

And if, like us, you can catch a Circus, you will experience a treat like no other, designed toappeal to the child in you. The Festival Tranziti was a delightful compendium of expert actsfrom around the world. The children could ride the animals, bungee cord to the roof onharnesses, and do many uber-fun activities that would make a U.S. Mom faint with fearand probably close down the circus in the U.S. and Canada. Kiss a snake, hug a monkey-noproblem at this circus. We loved it.

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Bukhara

Bukhara is The Ageless Traveler™'s dream: a fifth century A.D. city that has evolved on the verysame site from its legendary beginnings as part of Sogd, a trade crossroads in ancient times.

Center city is a designated World Heritage UNESCO site since 1991. Distinguished by theBukharan ARK, at its walled center, the governors and their associates functioned thousands ofyears ago surrounded by caravans.

Bukhara has modern suburbs called Rabads, and an inner-city “the shahristan," you feel thatBukhara is a living city with a past of 2500 years. The lure of Bukhara is that within the walledcity no modern civilization has intruded, and you walk with the ancients.

From the II Century A.D. until the III Century, Bukhara was part ofKangiu. By the IX Century Bukhara was a major cultural center andthe heart of multitudes of religions and beliefs. The architecture ispredominantly Muslim and is replete with mosques, minarets,madrasahs (schools) that rival ancient and medieval architectureanywhere in the world.

The history of Bukhara is the history of the Silk Road. More than 60caravans could be found at any one time from India, China, Europe

and Persia. It was a peaceful place and remains so; enclosed by walls Bukhara is easy to strolland you will feel the past strolling along with you.

Those interested in the logistics of ancient peoples will be fascinated by how trade linksdeveloped. Caravans traveling on East to West roads beginning in the capital of ancient China,Changan, found their way to Bukhara after ferrying over the Tyran-Shan to the Fergana Valley,and then from Tashkent to Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khorezm, to finally reach the Caspian andBlacks sea.

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It was Marco Polo that called this path the Great SilkRoad and was the first European to reach theborders of the Chinese Empire. The Ageless Travelerwill see more than ancient buildings; he or she willbe immersed in ancient craft, and meet a modernpeople fiercely reviving and revisiting theirtraditions and legends.

Bukhara is also the city of philosophers and poets,with 140 architectural sites, many for science and learning. For The Ageless Traveler, Bukhara isa city for intense sightseeing. In 1997 it was celebrated internationally for its 2500thanniversary by UNESCO and has been on the list of world heritage sites since 1991.

Those interested in Russian history will be fascinated by the national legends and verifiablefacts of the interaction between the city and various Russian and Soviet regimes since the1800s. For example, the Czar was most interested in looting the city for its golden treasures.But, after defeating the Czar, the Communist regime was equally interested in imposing itsculture on Bukharin origins. And so we can visit solid Soviet architecture alongside ofotherworldly ancient temples.

Personal Highlights

You will likely start at Lyabi-Hauz a trade square built in 1620 withthree monumental buildings. Take pictures with statues of camelsand with the Sufi comic sage Nasrudin. By all means before youget into the walled central complex enjoy a carriage ride, andonce within its walls indulge in the puppet show and bazaars.Bring home a saffron tea which costs $22 at a local teahouse and10 times that in the U.S.

This is also the place to visit blacksmith shops, weavers and carpet makers for truly fineexamples of ancient and modern craft. The nine sided carved wooden book holders, originallyintended to display the family Koran, are as complex as a Rubik's cube.

Outside the walls are opportunities for custom-made gold jewelry, clothing and leisurely diningunder the ancient sky.

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Samarkand

Samarkand , founded 2750 years ago is as old as Rome. It was built between two rivers in theTrans-Oxania in Central Asia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage City because of its well preservedarchitectural masterpieces and its significance as the capital of ancient empires like Sogdian,Samanid, Temurid .

Great names in history such as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Sultan Sanjar and AmirTemur, to name just a few, have left their mark on the city.

Between the VII and VIII Century BC the land of Sogd developed its identity on the hill ofAfrasab, which you will visit on your journey back in time. It was part of the Persian Empire untilthe IV Century BC. It was destroyed by Alexander the Great and then restored as part of theGreco-Bactrin Empire. Leaders of ancient civilizations formed the governments; Hepthalitesfrom the V to VI Centuries, Turkic Khanate from the VI through VII Centuries, and theChinese from the middle of the VII Century until the Confederation of Principiats headed byIlshid governed.

The Afrosiab Museum of History, located in the ancient city of Afrasiabnear the Siab River, has one of the most important multi culturalexcavations in the world. It is an ancient fresco of horsemen, boatman anda wedding with Chinese, Turkestan and Chach emissaries in theprocessional.

Personal Highlights

The necropolis of GurEmir, built as a home for the Grandson of Amir Temur, allows you to walkfreely among the hushed silence of the crypts and monuments observing a complex of grandtombs mosaics and gravestones that are a wonder of the Middle Ages.

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As The Ageless Traveler™, we are intense sightseers, and if you want to absorb the enormity ofthe offerings of Samarkand you need three days of active sightseeing.

At the Shah-i-Zinda a group of mosques on the Afrasiab's southernslope built around the tomb of Kusam ibn Abas (a cousin andcompanion of Mohammed the prophet) and the governor ofMecca, we met a group of Ageless Travelers visiting Central Asiafor two months. The perfectly preserved madrasahs impressed uswith the beauty and difficulty of the restoration, as well as the

achievements of the ancient scholars who attended in centuries gone by.

Registen Square rivals the Taj Mahal in beauty. It is in the heart of the new city with a complexof magnificent structures and the history so impressive that you can enjoy a Sound and Lightshow every evening in many languages, to understand the significance of the Silk Road.

Samarkand, for the sightseer, is asmorgasbord of ancient complexes most ofwhich typically include a cemetery, aschool and a place of worship. It iswonderful also to visit the neighborhoodmosques, the Russian Orthodox churchesand synagogues.

We marveled at the Jewish Museum with its private residential charmdesigned by the architect E.Nelle for merchants of the Guild of Abram Kalantarov.

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A short 40 km trip from Samarkand brings you to a vast fleamarket in Urgent at the foot of the Afrasiab mountains , 1000feet above sea level. Traditional jewelry, metal work andmodern dress offerings are a must buy.

The tomb of the Prophet Daniel is another marvelof preservation. The above ground casket is 18 feetin length and is a matter of many legends. Theprevailing story is that it was made so big tofrighten looters. The site on a hill is stunning andthe ability to drink from healing waters available toall free of charge. People of every faith andphilosophy walk in silence around the tomb threetimes and leave their mark with a flag or stone orleaf.

Our final destination was the papermaking mill using an ancienttechnique brought from China in the VIII Century and revivedwith the assistance of UNESCO. The paper making begins bymanually shredding leaves using a water wheel situated on thebanks of the Siab River in the countryside.

A Word to The Ageless Traveler™ on accessibility – Samarkand offers larger venues forsightseeing that can sometimes become hectic as you traverse cobblestones and climb ancientsteps. Always have water with you. If you have mobility issues please allow us to guide you andprovide equipment and a realistic view of what you will be able to see and how best to navigatethese iconic venues, www.TheAgelessTraveler.com .

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Khiva

Khiva is a city surrounded by legend. It is located South of the Aral Sea and near the Kyzyl-Kumdesert of Central Asia. Some believe that the city was founded by Shem, the son of Noah, of Arkfame, as Shem wandered in the desert alone after the Great Flood. His dream of 300 burningtorches was taken by him as an omen to found the city in the shape of a ship in accordance withthe placement of the torches. Well water from the Kheyvak Water Well in the inner-city, theIchan-Kala, is preserved today and it is said to be the well dug by Shem, himself.

But, Khiva’s verifiable history also seems like legend, as Alexander the Great and the ArabianArmy fought battles at Khorsem of which Khiva was a leading city. Genghis Khan nearlydestroyed the city by wiping out dams and causing flooding. Khiva is a UNESCO site and thehome of Muslim educational institutions such as Mamun Academy which is over one thousandyears old.

Under Amir Temur, Khiva became anintegral part of the Great Silk Road. Theentire city is a museum through which youcan walk to see fortresses protected bypowerful clay walls and reinforced withsemicircular towers. Khiva is the home tosignificant architecture including palaces,mosques, ancient baths and minarets.Most of these buildings are faced withmarble, tiles and carvings by great artistsand Masters.

Khiva lies along one of the most ancient legs of the Great Silk Road. Merchants traveled fromIndia, Iran and parts of Russia on caravans; and then to China, Mongolia, Alexandria, Cairo andBaghdad, each bringing their own wares, traditions, and dress.They established trading protocols; for example, using silk as themost popular measure of commerce. Silk was the currency forlabor as well, and could even be used to pay a fine. It is for thisreason that Marco Polo called the caravan routes the Silk Road.These trade paths also brought with them cross-cultural foods,scientific research, art and poetry.

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Many buildings in Khiva have been converted into museums, the most unusual being theZoroastrian museum where you can learn the ancient religion still practiced by those who runthe museum today.

You can walk through the centuries, as parts of the Ichan-Kala existed in the V Century andwere caravan stops. Visit the throne room, the Harem and the baths to get a true taste ofancient life in this sophisticated surround.

The Ageless Traveler™ who can climb the minaret orother of the buildings, many of which wereconstructed with steps specifically to get an overviewof the city, will be richly rewarded.

Personal Highlights

The Djuma Mosque will remind the Ageless Traveler™ of theAlhambra. Dating from the late 1700s and constructed with archesand ornamentation it is supported by 25 columns which date back tothe X through XVI Century.

Of greatest beauty to us was the Pakhlavan Mahmud a place for pilgrimage,replete with the most exquisite tile work. Named after a renowned poetwho is dubbed the “Khoresmian Omar Khayyam”, he is responsible forwriting over 300 poems with romantic and philosophical content.

Several of the facade ornamentations are traces of Rubayats of the poet.An Hungarian Orientalist and researcher, Arminy Vamberi, establishedMahmud’s fame in modern times; such is the connection betweenscholarship from many cultures brought together in one astonishingbuilding.

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Khiva at night brings you to perhaps one of the most romantic places on the planet. Thebuildings seemed to glow in the twilight. This is a UNESCO tourist attraction and so there is noshortage of places to eat; including many traditional outdoor spaces where you can recline onplatforms and eat Plov under the stars.

While most Ageless Travelers will stay within the walls of the city, there is much to exploreoutside the inner city. Don't limit yourself to the Ichan–Kala ifyou have the time to wander to the outside city or Dishan-Kala.

We were engaged by the contrast between the legends of theIchan-Kala and the bustle of the outskirts. For example, we hadthe pleasure of visiting the Science Research Institute and

seeing its small but fascinating museum. We were struck bythe scientific achievements and the connections betweenWestern and Central Asian scholarship.

A personal highlight for us was Palace Nurally. The AgelessTraveler™ will enjoy its European-style architecture combinedwith Central Asian ornamentation, carved wooden columnsand the chandeliers presented by the Russian Czar Nikolay.Because of the treasures of the inner-city it's easy to pass up this area; but I do recommendthat you stay within the walls of the Ichan-Kala if you have a short period of time.

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Nukus

Perhaps if The Ageless Traveler™ was asked which museums have the largest collection in theworld, a museum in a small city in Uzbekistan would not be top of mind. But, it should be. It'sthe Savitsky Museum in Nukus (officially, The Nukus Museum of Art).

Stalin banned artists, dubbed decadent or bourgeois, that did not meet his Social Realiststandards and that of his art and culture committee. Many of these artists had trained withPicasso, the surrealists, pointillists and impressionists. Others were cubists and many artistscreated an original style that might have rocked the art world of Europe and eventually thewhole world, if they did not died banned, or banished as unknowns.

A few years ago Nukus would have been “Off the Beaten Path“; but today the Savitsky museumis a must see. The museum is under a huge expansion, as 80% of its collection is in storage, andis finally coming up for air. It is the home of the world's second largest collection of Russianavant-garde art in the world (after the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg).

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While these artists were being starved out in Russia, the artist Igor Savitsky realized the worthof these paintings. He scrounged through attics, garrets and cold storages to save and collect,tirelessly from 1957-1966. Many paintings were given to him free of charge or soldunderground. He stored them and eventually showed them in Nukus, Uzbekistan in a museumnow named for him. Today, the vast collection is augmented with fine local and national art.

When you wander through the gallery you have constant déjà vu. “Didn’t I see this at the Metin New York City, the Louvre, at a serious art auction?” No you did not. What you are seeing arethe works of artists that influenced and were influenced by the great artistic names you know,but never “made it” because artistic censorship kills.

So vast is the collection that you might miss the museums world class offering of archeologicalfinds, and Uzbekistan folk art. Despite the cultural charms of the Silk Road, The AgelessTraveler™ will miss something special if they miss the Igor Savitsky Museum, also called “TheDesert of Forbidden Art.”

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Shakhrisabz

Shakhrisabz shows us a city of archaeological treasures, but also has a very contemporary spirit.To me it was a “Mirage” where I felt I could “observe “ancient scholars sitting cross legged andquietly discussing how to navigate by the stars; or actually attend the wedding of Roxanne andAlexander the great.

Shakhrisabz, situated 90 miles south of Samarkand, is 27 centuries old, founded in the sameage as the city of Rome (1700 BC.)

Given its longevity, its history is rich. In its pre-Silk Road epoch, Alexander the Greatdetermined to conquer the Greeks and use the city to do so. In furtherance of his plan hemarried Roxanne, daughter of a Silk Road merchant and a Sogdian (the original name ofUzbekistan.)

In 1346 Amir Temur was born in the city, which became holyto him as he built his Empire. He truly wanted to be buriedthere, as were his father, his advisor and his elder children.But, his remains are at Gur Emir in Samarkand. It isimportant to note that Shakhrisabz is the second capitalafter Samarkand and the summer residence of the Timurids.Ak-Saray, their palatial summer home, has inscribed upon its

walls the rather arrogant but modern sentiment, ”If you're in doubt of our power look at ourbuildings”.

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As with all ancient cities, this one has its legends; but unlike many other ancient venues factshave been chronicled through the centuries.

The summer palace is unrestored, but gives a sense of grandeur that must have stunned friendand foe. At the top of the palace was a fountain constructed from ceramic tubes.

There is a grand funeral complex including the tombs ofprophets and their descendents, where Amir Temur’s sonis buried. You may enter the house of meditation and besurrounded by a hush somehow unaffected by thebustling city without.

Personal Highlight

At Shakhrisabz we had a particularly knowledgeable guide who was giddy with glee at theupcoming Jubilee Year.

Despite the fact that half the city has been torn up to build magnificent fountains, gardens andpublic spaces, we didn't mind. In all the excitement of the archaeological work going on, wewere fortunate enough to meet French archaeologists painstakingly cataloging and thenreplacing ancient tiles to create a restored bathhouse.

We hope that Shakhrisabz will be a traditional stop for everyone visiting Samarkand.

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You can make this journey in an hour and a half car ride through mountains and countrysideworth seeing.

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The Festival of Asrlar Sadosi

Echos of the Centuries

Do you like to be immersed in the culture of a people?

Do you like to watch the strong men lift weights beyond measure?

Do you like wrestling at its best (Uzbekistan’s national sport)?

If you answered “yes” to any of those questions you are in for a treat atAsrlar Sadosi. Because it’s all here and more.

Asrlar Sadosi is a festival of traditional culture and a rare opportunity toglimpse artisans at work, eat traditionalfoods, enjoy acrobatics, wrestling and

folkloric music all topped off by a world-class folk concert.

Every spring since 2008 the Fund Forum, the organizing entitybehind the Festival, chooses a different site to hold the Festival. TheFestival is supported by the UNESCO local office as well. Previousyears it was held in Khiva, Bukhara, in the mountains near Tashkent and in Shakhrisabz.

This year the venue was the outside city of Navoi, a spectacular region of Uzbekistan known forits petraglyphs and ancient stone formations, as well as its near desert setting.

People from over 65 countries attended the event, many of them for its entire three-day span.This year’s festival highlight was a spectacular high fashion show with beautiful models andoutfits that dazzle.

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Some of these beautiful dresses can be worn in the US. And I was especially impressed by themen’s outfits. The petraglyph tee shirts are an easy export, and look like they come straight outof Abercrombie and Fitch.

We arrived early in the morning for a tour of the petraglyphs and were propelled into theBronze Age. Although many of The Ageless Traveler™s have had the experience of visiting cavesinhabited by ancient man, I will wager that you have never gotten this close to an authenticrock painting. There is a deep sense of excitement when you recognize the figures and the clearpictorials of hunting, fishing and domestic activities depicted by primitive artists.

Currently, visitors are allowed to touch the petro glyphs with impunity. I was concerned thatwe would rub away these gems.

Our guides told us that because these are carved into stone and notpainted, they will endure. I expect that with increased tourism thismay change. So, if the thrill of being upfront and personal with a caveartist from the Bronze Age intrigues you go now.

It really is an extraordinary experience, walking through the beautiful rock formations, hearingthe gurgling streams, and viewing the petraglyphs which are abundant.

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After this a very short ride by van or car takes you to the festival site. The activity tends toappear as a mirage as first you see horsemen, then women in traditional dress, and then tentsfilled with Silk Road treasures.

Craftsmen with ancient tools mingle with fashion models wearing cutting-edge ensembles. It isnearly impossible to take in the entire festival in one day.

We enjoyed the culinary contests where traditional foods like Plov,were cooked on the spot. Much like our chili cook offs in the US, or aFood network television show, there were judges and awards givenfor the master chefs in each category. The centerpiece of the culinarytent was a wooden platform bedecked with pillows and fabrics forreclining at the community table perched atop the platform. I was

invited to join and we ate what truly was the best Plov of our trip as we reclined in traditionalfashion.

Next we visited the tents of each region of Uzbekistan to see their particular crafts and culture.I was enamored with a sophisticated woven wool scarf created by young artist living inTashkent.

For my daughter and friend I stayed with the ancient arts and purchased two hand wovenpurses, and the susanie embroidery so beautiful on pillows. But, my favorite buy was the clayanimal whistles so basic that they appeared like a petraglyph come to life.

Now a break for a rest and some nuts and fruits and cool water before the highlight of theevening, an all star concert co-mingled with classical and traditional dance and music.

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The Uzbekistan Food Fest

You may have read that Uzbekistan is not the place to go to eat. Don't believe it.

Yes, horse meat is on traditional menus, and yes, Plov (pronounced "peelov"and is the root of our word: pilaf) the ubiquitous rice dish is as frequentlyserved as chili in our South West, but Plov can be as delicious as any dishyou've tasted when you hit it right.

I recommend going native and eating outside in good weather reclining on wooden loungersfilled with pillows and other diners. Yes, there might be feet intertwined with yours, but you getthe true meaning of a communal table when you dine in Uzbekistan.

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Eat salads adorned in every shade of green and red and orange. Indulge indried fruits of all ilk, and go nuts over nuts.

Yes , we ate in the markets and accepted offerings of tastes, whether natural honey, yogurtballs or samsa (meat filled dough.) Remember this is not called the Spice Road for nothing.Saffron infused tea, basil, paprika, cinnamon and spices little known in the West are prevailingin the recipes of even the most mundane of restaurants.

Not being a fan of the road most traveled, I urge you to experiment. My favorite diningexperience was an off the beaten path outdoor establishment which butchered it's own sheepand specialized in salad and mutton. The waiters washed the concrete platforms with water

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from the water fall that meandered down the steps on which we ate.

For the less intrepid, you have access to a variety of restaurants in theCaravan Chain. These include Caravan in Tashkent, a traditional farerestaurant, and several sushi/Japanese or Italian themed restaurants thatcould be located in NYC or Chicago or LA if it were not for the fact thatthey were in the trendiest parts of Taskkent.

The terrific Samarkand Restaurant in guess where, Samarkand, should not be missed with itstwo level themes or Russian Dacha and Silk Road exotic. Never mind the stuffed bear-the foodis very good.

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Shopping & Fashion Fest

The great designer Karl Lagerfeld said, "Fashion is the only thing that cantravel from the old world to the new." And Uzbekistan fashion proves hispoint. The people wear traditional garb every day based on the ancient silkcolors and textures.

Flowing scarfs and over-the-top prints result in to-die-for wearing apparel. Part of the trainingof young citizens is to give them access to fashion as a business.

Yet, traditional custom made clothing could cost no more than 50 dollars for a couture dress.Street fashion is worth emulating.

An Asrala Sadosi highlight is its fashion show where young designers can get discovered.

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People Watching

Uzbekistan is a country of young faces, many ofwhom show off the variety of ethnicities andcustoms that grace the land.

Russian fur hatted gentleman mix with Asianwomen who look like princesses in theirBucharian dresses.

Europeans of all ilks and of course Canadians andUS citizens form the tableau in any subway station in Tashkent.

But, for me the best people watching were the happy kids in the parks built for them, and therugged faces of the villagers in the country side. See for yourself.

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Create a Joyful Adventure:

“Dancing in Chilpiq”

The Ageless Traveler™ can be pretty jaded about travel. We have seen great sights where weenjoyed many seminal experiences.

My personal criterion for great travel is:

Have I experienced a moment of true JOY during the trip?

“Yes.” I have on many occasions. At the opera house in Sydney, swimming in the South ChinaSea, walking eighteen feet below the ocean’s surface in Aruba, meeting a Chieftain in Borneowho taught me to use a blow dart gun (ok not everyone’s cup of tea), the first time I had tea atHarrods in London, and standing near most any biblical ruin in Israel.

Like you, I could go on.

In Uzbekistan my moment of joy arrived in Chilpiq.

Let me explain.

I was on my way to Bukhara by car from Urgench, where I stayed when exploring Khiva. Thatroad trip takes you through the Red Sands of a desert inhabited by camels, wild horses and the

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occasional villager. It is replete with fortresses and castles built in the IV to VII Century BC. Youcan stay at a yurt overnight, and have the total desert experience.

I chose to simply ride through.

But the desert did not allow that.

A fortress called to me to climb to its top. I did so without hesitation, leaving the car in themiddle of no-where.

At the top of the fortress I discovered a Zoroastrian funereal site for cremation, and a boththrilling and terrifying aerial view of the surrounding desert.

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When I climbed down a man appeared from seemingly out of the Red Clay itself to play aBalalaika. I was compelled to dance, and danced with joy.

Please visit us www.TheAgelessTraveler.com and tell us about your moments of joy in travel.

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The Ageless Traveler™ Health Hints and Tips

A central mission of The Ageless Traveler™ is to guideyou in having a safe, healthy and fit trip. Uzbekistan,because of its exotic flavor, may seem a tough triphealth-wise, but it is not; if you follow the basic rules ofsafe travel for The Ageless Traveler™.

Always check whether special vaccinations or shots arerecommended. You can do this on the Centers forDesease Control site, www.cdc.gov. We found none andtook no additional shots. We are always up to date onour tetanus shots.

Don't drink the water except if bottled. We adhered to that even for brushing our teeth, andeven when drinking in hotels and restaurants. Bottled water is plentiful and cheap.

Watch out for the ubiquitous yogurt balls. They are delicious, but made by hand and in somecases hand sanitation is not enforced.

Watch out for the sun, it's tricky. Always wear suntan lotion even in the cities. Remember, as Ifailed to do, that if you take certain medicines such as doxycycline the sun can cause a rash onhands, face and feet. So cover up and stay hydrated. You will see many locals using an umbrellaagainst the hot sun. It's a good idea.

As for food safety, we ate in the markets and in local restaurants all over the country with nostomach issues, whatsoever. However, we seem to be a marvel to those who were touched bystomach ills when eating horse meat, or Plov, in the markets. For those with touchy stomachs,avoid the tempting market food and stay with the restaurant and hotel fair. Bring Imodium;although I never used it.

As for personal safety, as in any big city be alert and aware. Your tour guide will tell youwhether there are pickpockets in the marketplace. If you are an independent traveler a simplemoney belt or fanny pack and heightened awareness will do.

Perhaps the biggest issue is that the currency, called"som," comes only in small paper currencydenominations, so that you might carry a thick wadof cash to buy an inexpensive meal or souvenir. InUzbekistan cash is the preferable mode of payment,with about 30% of transactions made by bank card.

Nevertheless, you may find yourself with a satchelfull of cash and lots of rubber bands to hold everything together. So don't be rushed when you

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pay, and count your money slowly. The locals are quick as a cash register in manually countingout money; it takes years of practice.

Accessibility and mobility is a problem for those with walkers and to some degree those inwheelchairs. As tourism develops I expect that they will install more ramps, elevators andaccommodations that are barrier free. Right now, if you have mobility issues just contact us atThe Ageless Traveler™, www.TheAgelessTraveler.com and we will provide you with access tothe right mobility equipment for your trip, make sure it is properly planned as we have eyes onthe ground in Uzbekistan. With our travel providers we can make sure that you don't end up ina hotel with a broken elevator, or left out when your group is touring ancient sites and UNESCOvenues.

Remember that you are visiting a Muslim country and of course it goes without saying that youwill respect traditions and practices. But you will not find intimidation, or unwelcome

attitudes.

We freely explained to our guides and new friends that we wereJewish and they made every effort to bring us to sites that theythought would be of great interest to us and everyone had greatrespect for our beliefs and values. You need not have any concern or

paranoia in walking in crowds in your Western dress, women need not cover their heads -justput on your sneakers and go, go, go.

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and Asrlar Sadosi



[email protected]

Documents

Uzbekistan The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar - Ageless Traveler