USTER® HVI Testing in the Cotton Supply · PDF fileUSTER® HVI Testing in the Cotton Supply Chain ... between bales within 1 lay-down: 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7

1

Joe Yankey

USTER® HVI Testing in the Cotton Supply Chain

10/24/20052 of 35J. Yankey/ EFS Turkey, 04-05

Since 2002: New Organization


USTER® Fiber Testing Products in the Cotton Supply Chain

For gin process

controlling...fiber

testing...yarn

testing...yarn

clearing ......for fabric inspection !

2


Cotton Production AreasIn over 50 countries worldwide:Million Metric Tons Million Metric Tons 20022002 20032003 2004*2004* 2005*2005*

• China 4.916 4.870 6.30 6.19

• U.S.A. 3.747 3.975 4.63 3.80

• India 2.312 3.009 3.23 2.97

• Pakistan 1.736 1.734 2.07 1.90

• Brazil 0.848 1.273 1.30 1.42

• Uzbekistan 1.022 0.893 1.07 0.99

• Others 4.718 4.858 5.53 5.42

• TOTAL 19.298 20.610 24.14 22.69* Projected

Source: “The Outlook For Cotton Supply in 2004/ 05,

ICAC International Cotton Advisory Committee, November 2004


Cotton Production Areas (%)

5-yr. Worldwide Cotton

Production Estimates:

(million metric tons)

2001 21.473

2002 19.298

2003 Est. 20.610

2004 Proj. 24.14

2005 Proj. 22.69

www.icac.org2004 Distribution of Worldwide Cotton

Production

27%

19%13%

9%

5%

4%

23%

China USAIndia PakistanBrazil UzbekistanOthers


Worldwide Cotton Quality

Fiber Property Ranges

(excluding Pima)

• Micronaire 2.7 - 5.9

• Length 15/16 - 1 3/8 (32s)

0.94 - 1.37 (inch)

23.8 - 34.9 (mm)

• Strength 23.0 - 35.5 HVI g/tex

Source: Cotton Varieties by Origin, Bremen Cotton Exchange

3


USTER® HVI Installations Worldwide – 2004

Total ~ 1580 units in 74 countries

NAFTA 23%

S.America 9%

Europe 16%

Africa & Middle East

13%

Asia & Australia

39%


USTER® HVI Installations- Turkey

USTER® HVI SPECTRUM 40 units (30%)

USTER® HVI 900 SA 90 units (70%)

Total USTER® HVI Instruments: 130 units


Cotton Quality Measurements

RESEARCH

Institutes

Industry

BreedingPrograms

MachineryManufacturers

Gins

Classing Laboratories

TextileMills

4


GINS

On-LineProcess Control

On-Line Classing:Color, Leaf

Off-Line Classing:Micronaire,

Length, Strength

CLASSINGLABORATORIES

Warehousing

Marketing

TEXTILE MILLS

Procurement

Warehousing

MixSelection

Off-line Process Control

Cotton Quality Measurements –Industry


Based on:

• Grade: Visual classification of color and trash content

• Staple: Manual determination of fiber length

• Disadvantage: Highly dependent on human (= highly variable) Cotton Classer

• Disadvantage: No information on strength, uniformity, micronaire,

Manual Cotton Classing


Edgar Degas: Edgar Degas: ““Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton OfficePortraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office””, 1873, 1873

Manual Cotton Classification

5


• 100% HVI™ test results: Micronaire, UHML, Uniformity, Strength, and color (Rd, +b)

• Short Fiber Index, a direct measurement from HVI™ fiber length distribution

• Leaf Grade is the only quality parameter still assigned by a USDA Cotton Classer

• Advantage:

• Improved Accuracy of Cotton Classification• Provides “common language”in international

cotton transactions

USTER® HVI Cotton Classification


USTERUSTER®® HVI HVI Cotton ClassificationCotton Classification

• USDA – since 1991: 100% USTER® HVICotton Classification


USTERUSTER®® HVIHVI Cotton ClassificationCotton Classification• 12 USDA Classing Offices throughout the

Cotton Belt; total of 230 USTER® HVI units

6


4

5

20

5

6

35

23

230

# of HVI™ installations

GovernmentChina

PrivateZimbabwe

GovernmentIndia (Maharastra)

PrivateAustralia

PrivateBrazil (SGS)

PrivateBrazil (BOLSA)

GovernmentUzbekistan

GovernmentUSDA (USA)

OwnershipClassing Organization

USTERUSTER®® HVI HVI Cotton Classing:Cotton Classing:Over 300 units worldwideOver 300 units worldwide


GINS

On-LineProcess Control

On-Line Classing:Color, Leaf

Off-Line Classing:Micronaire,

Length, Strength

CLASSINGLABORATORIES

Warehousing

Marketing

TEXTILE MILLS

Procurement

Warehousing

MixSelection

Off-line Process Control

Cotton Quality Measurements –Applied


USTER® HVI – Textile Mill ApplicationsResults Affecting Your Bottom Line

• Standard Cotton Classification – worldwide

• Common language for the seller and buyer of cotton

• Verifies cotton quality and ensures the buyer receives what they paid for

• Cotton warehousing based fiber quality

• Uniform and optimized lay-downs ensures uniform spinning performance and desired end quality of yarn

7


USTER® HVI – Application Example

Fabric Barré


Causes of Fabric Barré %Contribution

• Raw Material Variation (Fiber) 70%

• Yarn Count Variation 10%

• Yarn Twist Variation 10%

• Yarn Hairiness Variation 10%

?? Variation in raw material (cotton lay-downs) is the major cause of fabric barré



Cotton Fiber DevelopmentCotton Fiber Development

closed boll

open boll

Dead Fiber

ImmatureFiber

NormalFiber

• In 16-18 days, the fibers grow in their perimeter (diameter) and length

•For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the hollow fibers

•When the deposit of cellulose stops, the boll dries up and cracks open

8


Fabric Barré: Acceptable variation of Micronaire

between bales within 1 lay-down:

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

4.6

4.7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Bale Number

Micronaire

Avg. 4.1 CV 17.7%

Recommended CV < 10%Recommended CV < 10%



Fabric Barré: Acceptable change in average Micronaire

From lay-down to lay-down

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.1

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Lay-down number

Micronaire

Maximum ± 0.1



Raw Material Control –

Single lot = 100 bales = 100%

Micronaire Distribution = normal

Maturity Distribution = normal

LOT #7

0.0%

5.0%

10.0%

15.0%

20.0%

25.0%

30.0%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

LOT #7

0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93

Maturity


9


Raw Material Control –

Single lot = 100 bales = 100%

Micronaire Distribution = OutlierOutlier

Maturity Distribution = SkewedSkewed

LOT #1

0.0%

5.0%

10.0%

15.0%

20.0%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

LOT #1

0.0%5.0%

10.0%15.0%20.0%25.0%30.0%35.0%40.0%

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93

Maturity



ALL LOTs

0%

2%4%

6%8%

10%12%

14%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

5% Mature5% Mature= GOOD= GOOD

2% Immature2% Immature

= BAD= BAD

Fabric Barré – Prevention:

• Use new Maturity Index to detect outliers!

• Not all bales with a Micronaire below 4.0 are immature fibers

• Not all bales with a Micronaire between 4.0 and 4.4 are mature fibers



• Do not exceed a change in average Micronaire from mix to mix more than +/- 0.1 Micronaire

• Maintain low variation of Micronaire within mix (CV below 10%)

• Do not place groups of bales with same Micronaire side by side in lay-down

• Additional Maturity Index information helps eliminate outlier bales in the lay-down

Fabric Barré – Prevention:


10


• Additional customer value provided by unique algorithms:

• Expected waste levels indicated by the amount of short fibers (SFI – Short Fiber Index) in the cotton bale

• SFI also indicates how aggressive the cotton was ginned

• Micronaire alone does not prevent fabric barré if cottons from different growth areas are used

• Maturity Index allows for better evaluation of such cottons

USTER® HVI Unique Algorithms


USTER® HVI Patented Moisture Probe

• Moisture content of cotton at the time of testing influences test results

• Essential for data comparison with international standards

• Allows reducing standard conditioning times considerably

• Increases sample turnaround time in the laboratory


USTER® HVI Patented Xenon Flash Colorimeter

• HVI™ color = an essential criteria in the cotton purchasing process

• Improves accuracy and precision of HVI™ color measurement

• Reduces maintenance and calibration during cotton season to a minimum

11


• Test results within internationally accepted ASTM standard tolerances for accuracy and precision

USTER® HVI Test results


USTER® HVI The Cotton Classification System

• Patented Moisture Probe

• Patented Xenon Flash Colorimeter

• Improved module integration:

• Nep Module• UV Module


USTER® HVI Product Illustration

• Standard Measurements include:• Length (UHML), Uniformity (UI), Short Fiber Index (SFI),

Strength, Elongation, Micronaire, Maturity Index, Color (Rd, +b,Color Grade), Trash (%Area, Count, Leaf Grade), Spinning Consistency Index (SCI), Moisture Content

12


Web site information:

www.uster.com

USTER® FIBER TESTING

Documents

USTER® HVI Testing in the Cotton Supply · PDF fileUSTER® HVI Testing in the Cotton Supply Chain ... between bales within 1 lay-down: 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7