UNITED BY ICE CREAM - Andres Lara · andrÉs lara&hiroyuki emori 183 so good.. with the premise of organizing a tasting menu revolving around ice cream at the chocolate academy centre

UNITED BY ICE CREAM

andres lara & emori sg#15 - ENG_Maquetación 1 10/02/16 17:05 Página 182

ANDRÉS LARA&HIROYUKI EMORI

183 so good..

WITH THE PREMISE OF ORGANIZING A TASTING MENU REVOLVING AROUND ICECREAM AT THE CHOCOLATE ACADEMY CENTRE IN TOKYO, ANDRÉS LARA ANDHIROYUKI EMORI PRESENTED ORIGINAL DESSERTS THAT INTENDED TO OPEN THEDOOR TO INNOVATION. As part of the events taking place under the umbrella of the project Cacao Collective, this experimen-tal dinner demonstrated new possibilities for ice cream and sweet cuisine in a playful context to some of the best Japanese pastry chefs.

LEARNING BY ENJOYING WAS THE GREAT SLOGAN OF ANIGHT WHOSE OBJECTIVE WAS TRANSMITTING NEW TECH-NIQUES AND ALTERNATIVE FORMS OF FACING THIS COLDDESSERT.


184

to learn and enjoy our dessert cuisine in a unique set-

ting and with privileged views,’ said Lara. ‘Ultimately,

our goal was to give them information and techniques

in an informal setting, to learn by enjoying themselves,’

he adds.

Lara and Emori presented two desserts each with this

premise. In the case of the Colombian professional,

Andrés Lara, his creations emphasized the gastrono-

mic side of sweet, incorporating savory and pairing his

proposals with Australian wines from Nova Scotia,

such as Noba 7 and craft beers. He also made a des-

sert that reminded one of the traditional mango with

salt consumed in the streets of Latin America and

Thailand. That is the case of the dessert with parme-

san, Zephyr Toumorokoshi Parmesan, where cheese

‘seasoned the mango and gave it texture,’ said Lara.

Furthermore, sorbets brought flavor and the play with

temperatures that each dessert required, as he poin-

ted out.

Meanwhile, Emori paired his ice creams with iced ver-

bena tea, Chinese Pu-erh black tea, and green tea. He

set off with desserts in verrine as a reference to pre-

sent Fiera Mango Passion Verrine, but he also propo-

sed chocolate plated desserts such as Synergy

Cioccolata. His creations at times, and because of the

details, reminded one of the creations he made in his

time at the ice cream shop, Glaciel, with a style that is

also very much influenced by French ice cream pastry.

Lara and Emori wanted to pay tribute to the fun side

of ice cream with a popsicle- petit four made of pea-

nut, black rum and banana on Lara’s part, and a fun

Sucette Rose skewer with chocolate ice cream, lychee

sorbet and covered in a flambéed rose meringue.

It is a pioneering and original initiative in its field. The

Asia-Pacific Regional Chef Cacao Barry, Andrés Lara,

and the ice cream maker Hiroyuki Emori decided

some months ago to organize a joint demonstration

that surprised the most outstanding pastry chefs in

Tokyo. In the brand new Chocolate Academy in the

Japanese capital, they organized a tasting by four hands

with such an innovative and surprising concept as well

as surprising: a dessert bar revolving around ice cream.

After two days of preparation, the most famous pastry

chefs from Japan were gathered, from the pastry chef

of the Mandarin Oriental, at the Hotel Ritz Carlton, to

those who have won or participated in the World

Chocolate Masters, and the winners of the World

Pastry Cup in Lyon.

As Andrés Lara himself explains, ‘we invited the best

pastry chefs to try creations with a clear protagonist,

ice cream. We took a risk with innovative proposals

like savory and pairings with beer, for example, to

open their minds. In Japan, confectioners still work

with very tight sweet parameters.’ Both professionals

created a special evening that departs from any other

demonstration, ‘we invited them to spend an evening

andrés lara&hiroyuki emori


185 so good..

isine in a unique set-

aid Lara. ‘Ultimately,

ation and techniques

enjoying themselves,’

esserts each with this

ombian professional,

asized the gastrono-

savory and pairing his

from Nova Scotia,

He also made a des-

aditional mango with

f Latin America and

dessert with parme-

mesan, where cheese

t texture,’ said Lara.

vor and the play with

required, as he poin-

reams with iced ver-

ea, and green tea. He

s a reference to pre-

e, but he also propo-

s such as Synergy

, and because of the

ations he made in his

el, with a style that is

nch ice cream pastry.

ibute to the fun side

it four made of pea-

ara’s part, and a fun

ate ice cream, lychee

d rose meringue.

‘We invited the best pastry chefs to try creations with a clear

protagonist, ice cream. We took a risk with innovative proposals

like savory and pairings with beer, for example, to open their

minds. In Japan,

confectioners still work

with very tight sweet

parameters.’


186

beetroot sorbet400 g beetroot juice300 g raspberry purée 60 g glucose powder20 g trimoline

178 g sucrose4 g gelatin powder (200bloom)

38 g water

Cook half of the beetroot juice to 40ºC. Add the dry solids. Cookto 85ºC. Add the gelatin. Cool down. Add the rest of the puréeand freeze in an ice cream machine.

hibiscus gel500 g hibiscus tea infusion10 g sucrose4 g agar agar

1.6 g gellan gum (Sosa)

Make a hibiscus infusion (750 g water and 60 g of hibiscus tea).Blend the gellan into the hibiscus water. Sprinkle the agar andsucrose over the surface. Bring to a boil for 10 seconds. Cast a thinlayer onto metal tray.

purée226 g raspberry purée20 g lemon juice

10.5 g gel cream cold

Combine all the ingredients until smooth. Reserve in squeeze bot-tle in the refrigerator.

dry beet paper250 g beetroot juice60 g kuzu40 g sucrose1 g sea salt

Mix all the ingredients. Bring to a boil slowly. Blend and allow tochill. Spread on a silpat and bake in a ventilated oven at 80ºC for15 min; low fan. Free form shapes. Dry at 55ºC for 24 hours.

alunga pain de gênes413 g almond paste 50% 450 g whole eggs38 g T-55 Flour

22.5 g corn starch4.5 g baking powder

22.5 g bergamot purée (Boiron)300 g alunga couverture, 41% cocoa

Soften the almond paste in a microwave. In a Robot coupe, blendthe almond paste with eggs little by little. Add the sifted dry ingre-dients. Add the bergamot purée. Finally add the Alunga couverturemelted to 40ºC. Bake at 160ºC.

bergamot alunga ganache375 g bergamot purée (Boiron)22.5 g trimoline

9 g gelatin (200bloom)750 g alunga couverture, 41% cocoa

Warm the purée and trimoline to 60ºC. Add the gelatin and dissol-ve. Emulsify over the melted Alunga couverture. Cast on top ofAlunga pain de gênes and freeze.

mascarpone chantilly500 g cream75 g mascarpone cheese55 g dextrose1 u vanilla beans1 u orange zest

Warm the cream with the dextrose, vanilla and orange. Heat to60ºC. Blend with the mascarpone. Allow to chill for 24 hours.

yogurt crumble200 g cold butter75 g sucrose

200 g T-55 Flour100 g yogurt powder

Combine all the ingredients. Chill and bake at 150ºC.

FINISH

DECORATE THE PLATE WITH PICKLED ORCHIDS, FRESH RASPBERRY,

ORANGES ZEPHYR RASPBERRY.



dry solids. Cook t of the purée

hibiscus tea). he agar and conds. Cast a thin

in squeeze bot-

d and allow to en at 80ºC for

r 24 hours.

REDAMANCY. Andrés Lara


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lime sauce200 g lime purée150 g trehalose

3-4 sheets gelatin

Warm the lime purée with the trehalose. Add the gelatin andreserve in the refrigerator.

mango and passion sorbet2500 ml water1200 ml granulated sugar1000 ml trehalose

30 g stabilizer500 g mango purée200 g passion fruit purée

Heat the water to 40ºC. Add the stabilizer mixed with the sugars.Cook to 85ºC. Allow to cool. Use 500 g of this sorbet syrup base. Mix with sherbet base with passion and mango puree. Freeze inmachine. Cast in 1 cm high frame and freeze. Cut 1cm cubes.Reserve in freezer.

zéphyr chocolate ice cream1000 ml milk

65 ml cream, 35% fat35 ml dry milk powder

200 g granulated sugar40 g trehalose30 g powdered glucose syrup20 g dextrin

115 g egg yolks3 g stabilizer1 u vanilla bean (Madagascar)

200 g cacao barry pistole Zéphyr300 g coconut purée

Warm the milk, cream and vanilla bean to 40ºC. Add the milkpowder. Mix the egg yolks with the dry solids and add to the base.Cook to 85ºC. Use 1000 ml of this vanilla base for the chocolateice cream. Melt the Zéphyr couverture. Homogenize with the vani-lla base and coconut purée. Freeze in an ice cream machine.

crumble100 g granulated sugar100 g butter100 g almond powder100 g cake flour

Mix all the ingredients to form a dough. Spread to 1cm into mold.Chill. Cut as desired and bake at 170ºC for 10 min.

pineapple marinadepineapple (fresh)brown sugarlime juicelime zest

Cut the pineapple into 2-cm pieces. Marinade with the brownsugar, lime juice and lime zest.

coconut sauce250 g coconut purée170 g granulated sugar

2 g gelatin (gold)20 ml coconut liquor

Warm the coconut purée and sugar. Add the gelatin and coconutliquor. Place in a hemisphere 3-cm mold and freeze.

mango and passion sauce200 g mango purée70 g passion fruit purée70 g granulated sugar2 g gelatin

Mix the sugar, mango and passion purée. Heat up. Add the gelatinand dissolve. Add finger lime as need to taste. Reserve in the refri-gerator.

ASSEMBLY

PLACE CRUMBLE INTO THE VERRINE. FOLLOW WITH THE PINEAPPLE

MARINADE ON CRUMBLE AND COCONUT PURÉE, THEN WITH THE

ZÉPHYR CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. FINISH WITH THE MANGO AND

PASSION SORBET. POUR THE MANGO PASSION SAUCE. FINISH WITH

LIME ZEST, RASPBERRY AND LIME LEAF.

He gained professional experience at Relais Desserts’ pastryshop Pâtisserie Fresson in France, where he trained next toMOF pastry chef Franck Fresson. Coming back to Japan, heworked as a pastry chef at Bergue No Shigatsu for 5 years.He contributed to the opening of the pastry shop Glaciel in2012 and worked as a pastry chef there since its openingfor three years. Then he decided to open his own pastryshop. He took part in the Ice Cream Completion in MilanoExpo 2015 as a captain of the Japanese team and won thefirst prize. He will participate in Coppa del Mondo dellaGelateria (Ice Cream World Cup) 2016 in Sigep, Italy. Apartfrom the completion, he has taken part in consulting tasks.



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with the sugars. rbet syrup base.

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r the chocolate ize with the vani- m machine.

FIERA MANGO PASSION VERRINE. Hiroyuki Emori

Desserts’ pastry rained next to ck to Japan, he

su for 5 years. shop Glaciel in e its opening

own pastry tion in Milano m and won the

Mondo della ep, Italy. Apart

nsulting tasks.


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UNITED BY ICE CREAM - Andres Lara · andrÉs lara&hiroyuki emori 183 so good.. with the premise of organizing a tasting menu revolving around ice cream at the chocolate academy centre