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1 UHB169M Advise and consult with clients Unit reference number: A/615/0802 Level: 2 Guided Learning (GL) hours: 35 Overview This unit is about understanding the principles of professional consultation for hairdressing and barbering services. Learners will develop the skills and knowledge required to prepare for and carry out consultations, establishing a good standard of client care. Learners will develop their understanding of the necessary communication skills and know how to identify and communicate realistic and appropriate service objectives. Learners will know the science of hair, skin and scalp and how these impact on follow-on hairdressing and barbering services. Learners will know contra-indications, hair tests, influencing factors, limiting factors, hair classifications and characteristics that will inform the course of action for all hairdressing and barbering services. Learning outcomes On completion of this unit, learners will: LO1 Know the salon requirements relating to initial advice and consultation for hairdressing LO2 Understand effective communication techniques LO3 Know how the science of the hair and skin affects initial advice and consultation for hairdressing services LO4 Be able to prepare for client consultation LO5 Be able to provide client consultation Version 6

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UHB169M Advise and consult with clients

Unit reference number: A/615/0802

Level: 2

Guided Learning (GL) hours: 35

Overview

This unit is about understanding the principles of professional consultation for hairdressing and barbering services. Learners will develop the skills and knowledge required to prepare for and carry out consultations, establishing a good standard of client care. Learners will develop their understanding of the necessary communication skills and know how to identify and communicate realistic and appropriate service objectives. Learners will know the science of hair, skin and scalp and how these impact on follow-on hairdressing and barbering services. Learners will know contra-indications, hair tests, influencing factors, limiting factors, hair classifications and characteristics that will inform the course of action for all hairdressing and barbering services.

Learning outcomes

On completion of this unit, learners will: LO1 Know the salon requirements relating to initial advice and consultation for hairdressing

LO2 Understand effective communication techniques

LO3 Know how the science of the hair and skin affects initial advice and consultation for hairdressing services

LO4 Be able to prepare for client consultation

LO5 Be able to provide client consultation

Version 6

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Assessment requirements

Learners must complete all four assessment requirements related to this unit:

1. Service portfolio 2. Graded practical assessment 3. External examination 4. Graded synoptic assessment

1. Service portfolio

Learners must produce a service portfolio. The service portfolio must contain evidence that learners have:

Performed 6 consultations on different clients for different services that include - New clients

- Existing clients

Used all consultation techniques, to include - Questioning

- Observation

Considered all implications, including - Cost of maintenance

- Frequency of maintenance

- Limitations to other services

- Changes to existing hair and scalp care regime

Considered all factors limiting or affecting services, including - Adverse hair, skin and scalp conditions

- Contra-indications

- Incompatibility of previous services and products used

- Client’s lifestyles

- Test results

- Head, body and face shape

Related all problems - Suspected infections

- Suspected infestations

Offered all courses of action, to include - Providing information

- Advice and guidance

- Referral to sources of support in line with salon or barber’s shop’s procedures

Advised on all hair characteristics, to include - Hair type

- Hair density

- Hair elasticity

- Hair porosity

- Hair condition

- Scalp condition

- Hair growth patterns

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Advised on all hair classifications ranges - Type1 – straight hair

- Type 2 – wavy hair

- Type 3 – curly hair

- Type 4 – very curly hair

The service portfolio must be completed prior to learners undertaking the graded practical skills test. Whilst treatment portfolios will not be graded, they may be sampled by the VTCT External Quality Assurer (EQA). Evidence from the graded practical assessment must also be presented in the service portfolio.

2. Graded practical assessment

Learners must carry out a complete consultation on one new client which will be observed, marked and graded by centre assessors. The grade achieved in the graded practical assessment will be the grade awarded for the unit. The graded practical assessment must take place in a real or realistic working environment on a real client. At a minimum the graded practical assessment for this unit must cover:

Service – independent consultation on a new client for any chemical service or new client requiring a complete restyle/change of appearance

Products, tools and equipment – the selection of techniques, tools, products and equipment considering hair test results, factors limiting or affecting the service, problems, hair characteristics and classifications

Make recommendations – give advice and make recommendations for the service provided

Recorded professional discussion can also be used as an assessment method attached to the graded practical assessment and is particularly useful for gathering evidence for criteria related to evaluation and reflection. Professional discussions should be planned and recorded.

3. External examination

Whilst the theory content of LO1, LO2 and LO3 may be naturally assessed in the graded practical assessment, they will be tested by an external examination towards the end of the learning period. External examinations will test knowledge and understanding from across the whole vocational area (mandatory units). Learners should use the unit content section of this unit to aid revision since exam questions will test the full breadth of this section. External examinations will be set and marked by VTCT and will contribute to the overall qualification grade.

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4. Graded synoptic assessment

In the last term or final third of their qualification, learners will be required to undertake a graded synoptic assessment. This will require learners to carry out a range of services from across the whole vocational area (mandatory units). Assessment coverage will vary year on year, although all services will be covered over time. VTCT will set a brief for centres which will detail the services to be covered in the graded synoptic assessment. Grading descriptors for the synoptic assessment will also be provided by VTCT. The graded synoptic assessment will be marked and graded by centre staff and externally verified by VTCT. The graded synoptic assessment will contribute to the overall qualification grade.

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Unit content

LO1 Know the salon requirements relating to initial advice and consultation for hairdressing Learners must know their personal responsibilities for health and safety when advising and consulting with clients: Good client care is a priority within a salon or barber’s shop and clients will require their individual needs to be taken into consideration. During an initial advice or consultation service learners’ personal presentation is important in creating an overall good impression and promotes client satisfaction, repeat/new business and reputation for the stylist or barber and salon. Learners must

Adhere to uniform requirements. Each salon or barber’s shop will have different requirements and expect learners to dress appropriately. General rules may include

- Closed-in low heel shoes

- Where tights/stockings/socks are worn, these should be clean and free from ladders or holes

- Smart non-restrictive clean clothes for ease of movement with sleeves or jewellery that does not touch the client whilst service is provided

- Examples may include a set uniform or tee-shirt with or without barber’s shop or salon logo

Present good, personal hygiene including clean teeth and fresh breath

Avoid strong smells, e.g. tobacco, heavy perfume or aftershave

Ensure they present good posture throughout the service, with weight evenly balanced Learners must know how to prepare for consultation: A well organised, hygienic and safe working area creates an efficient working environment and upholds professional salon standards. Learners must ensure

The work area is clean and well organised

The chair is adjusted to a workable height for the learners, but is also comfortable for the client. Where necessary a foot stand could be positioned for client comfort

Refreshments are offered if and when appropriate, along with reading materials

There is enough space to be able to sit beside or opposite the client without being in proximity to other people; the client may not speak freely if they feel others are listening

Any background music must not be too loud or intrusive for conversation

Visual aids are available if required for the consultation

Possible testing products or equipment required is readily available

Record cards or notes of consultation are used (where appropriate)

Knowledge of the services and products available in the salon

Knowledge of the salon pricing structure and how to calculate charges

The importance of gaining additional support or guidance from a responsible colleague (when necessary)

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Prepare and utilise client records:

Client records are an effective resource within a salon and provide accurate information regarding client services, history of the client, the products used, the dates of services and any tests carried out. Learners must know the importance of record keeping, ensuring future services can be tracked. Learners must know

- The importance of making records available prior to the service

- The importance of gaining client consent

- The importance of accurate completion of records

- The importance of secure storage and security of client records

- The importance of confidentiality and the consequences if confidentiality is not maintained

Learners must know the tools and resources that can support a consultation:

Different types of visual aids can support client consultation to avoid misunderstanding. Visual aids may include

- Photographs/stylebooks

- Pictures in trade magazines

- Colour charts/colour swatches

- Magazines or books

- Drawings

- Internet downloads on a computer

- Tablet or smartphone apps Learners must know legislative implications when carrying out client consultations:

Learners must know their responsibilities under legislation relating to consultation, retail sales and giving advice to clients. Learners must know

- Relevant legislation for consultation, client care, confidentiality and consumer/retail. Includes data protection, consumer rights, health and safety, equality

- Salon insurance requirements, employers liability, public liability, professional indemnity

- The limits and boundaries of their duties and responsibilities and why it is important to explain these to the client

- The most current information on legislation – available at www.legislation.gov.uk

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LO2 Understand effective communication techniques

Learners must understand how to communicate effectively with the client:

Learners must know why effective communication is important for the salon’s business - Verbal communication – speaking manner and tone of voice, being respectful,

sensitive to client, being supportive, using open questions, using appropriate vocabulary, using tact and diplomacy, allowing time for client to express their wishes and to ask questions

- Non-verbal communication – eye contact, appropriate and inappropriate body language, hand gestures, facial expression and active listening

- Adapting and tailoring approaches for different clients, e.g. new and existing clients, according to gender, age, culture, occasion, client comprehension

- Dealing with difficult, angry, confused clients or complaints

- Written – show clarity and conciseness, attention to spelling, grammar and presentation of written information

- Clarification – checking client understanding to ensure the outcome is suitable for the client

Learners must understand the additional factors that may reduce the effectiveness of communication:

Language difficulties, e.g. limited speech, vocabulary or accents may present a barrier

Cultural differences, e.g. choice of vocabulary could potentially cause offence

Physical disabilities, e.g. speech, hearing problems may present a barrier

Psychological difficulties, e.g. illnesses or low self-esteem and a lack of client confidence may make communicating difficult

Learners must understand when communicating how to adapt to different cultural needs:

There are many cultural differences that affect communication; learners must understand how to vary communication techniques to meet all client’s needs. Learners must:

- Avoid using slang terms and idioms

- Avoid stereotyping

- Be sensitive to different religious needs

- Use more visual aids as appropriate

- Be specific

- Be patient

- Seek support where appropriate Learners must understand the overall importance of having good communication skills:

Establishes client requirements – avoids misunderstandings, ensures client satisfaction, reduces complaints

Creates positive working relationships – with clients, staff, visitors

Improves client retention – for example, a client will be more inclined to return to a stylist who has communicated well and offered good advice suited to their needs

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Learners must know the implications of the client’s lifestyle on the selection of services and products when communicating:

A client’s lifestyle will impact upon the salon services that are suited to their needs. By using careful questioning and observation the consultation will provide the opportunity to discover the lifestyle preferences of the client. Lifestyle, personality and age will influence the suitability of a salon service with regard to the image it gives the client and the maintenance it demands. Learners must know the impact of the client’s lifestyles with regard to salon service recommendations. Examples may include

- Work – working environments may restrict certain styles or colour services

- Sporting activities – can limit certain styles

- Leisure activities – these may require a versatile hair style

- Forthcoming special occasions such as a wedding or prom – hair may need to be grown longer to be able to be styled accordingly, or beard to be shaped accordingly

- Time – the amount of time available for daily maintenance and styling and the time available for repeat salon or barber’s shop visits

- Religion – to comply with certain religious rules and traditions

- Age – from children through to seniors, age will influence the suitability of recommended styles and possible colour choices

- Gender – gender specific variation in hair growth, males may experience hair thinning and loss due to male pattern baldness

- Personality – some clients will want to project a self-confident, outgoing personality through an attention-grabbing style

- Client’s own care abilities – some clients are skilled and committed to managing their hair. Others, perhaps due to an injury or lack of guidance, may not have the skills to manage certain styles

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LO3 Know how the science of the hair and skin affects initial advice and consultation for hairdressing services

Learners must understand the hair classifications:

Learners must know the different hair classifications and how they will influence the advice and consultation service

Hair classifications table

1a Fine/thin 1b Medium 1c Coarse

Type 1: Straight hair

Straight Straight with volume Straight difficult hair

2a Fine/thin 2b Medium 2c Coarse

Type 2: Wavy hair

‘S’ pattern Frizzy ‘S’ pattern Very frizzy ‘S’ pattern

3a Fine/thin 3b Medium 3c Coarse

Type 3: Curly hair

Soft curl Loose curl Tight curl

4a Fine/thin 4b Medium 4c Coarse

Type 4: Very curly hair

Tight coiled curl pattern ‘Z’ pattern and spring curl

Tight ‘Z’ pattern

Learners must know how the extent and degree of the hair classification will influence the service method, products, tools and equipment used, e.g. a client with hair classification type 3b will influence the tension, method and products selected for cutting. This hair type is more likely to require firmer tension when sectioning and combing prior to cutting to straighten the curl and assist the cutting service. Products require selection to either enhance the curl or smooth and relax the curl for a straighter effect

Learners must understand different hair characteristics and how this impacts when advising and consulting with clients: Analysis of both the hair classification and characteristics during a client consultation will influence every service offered, learners must know:

Density – this is defined as the number of hairs on the scalp and will affect the choice of tools and products used and the time of a service

Texture – the circumference of an individual strand of hair. Hair can be fine, medium or coarse in texture depending upon its circumference

Porosity – this relates to the condition of the cuticle. Porosity levels are caused by both chemical and physical damage. Cuticles which are raised and feel rough and may tangle are known as porous and will absorb water and products more easily and unevenly when applying finishing products. Advise suitable treatment or products for porous hair

Elasticity – this relates to the condition of the cortex layer of the hair. Elasticity levels are affected by how the hair is treated and the condition it is in. Hair should stretch and return to its normal size, this indicates good condition hair with no damage to the cortex. If hair stretches and snaps or does not return to its original length this indicates internal damage to the cortex

Growth patterns – this relates to the direction in which the hair grows from the scalp and may influence the desired finish

Head and face shape and size – this relates to the overall shape and size of the client’s head and includes any specific features

Hair length – this will affect the general condition of the hair

Previous salon or home services – this relates to any products, styling or chemical services previously carried out either within a salon/barber’s shop or at home

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Learners must know the structures and functions of hair and skin:

Knowledge of the structure and function of the hair and skin is important in underpinning advice and guidance given to the client. Learners must know the structures and functions of the hair and skin so that they can identify problems that could affect choices when providing services and offer a suitable course of action

Characteristics of different hair types within hair classification, e.g. hair type 1c has many layers of cuticle scales making it strong and resistant to chemical services, type 4a has few cuticle scales making it fragile and porous. The amount of cuticle layers for different hair types

- Caucasian or European hair – on average 4-7 cuticle layers

- Asian hair – on average 11 cuticle layers

- African type hair – on average 7-11 cuticle layers

Learners must know how the structure and function of the hair relate to the hair’s condition – hair that is in good condition will have cuticle layers that lie flat and reflect the light resulting in shiny looking hair. Hair that is in poor condition has cuticle scales that are lifted and/or torn resulting in hair that looks dull and lifeless

Structure Function

Cuticle – overlapping colourless scales Forms a protective surface to the hair

Cortex – fibrous middle layer containing colour pigments

Contains colour pigments, gives the hair its strength; this is where all chemical and physical changes take place

Medulla – central innermost part of the hair No known function and does not play any part in hairdressing processes and treatments

Learners must know the structure and functions of the skin

Structure Function

Epidermis The protective surface layer of the skin, it consists of five layers

Dermis The thickest layer of the skin containing the hair follicle, blood supply, sweat gland, nerve endings and lymph vessels

Subcutaneous layer The fatty layer – provides insulation and energy for the body

Sensory nerve endings Sensory organs for detecting heat, touch, cold and pain

Blood supply Provides oxygen and nutrients to feed the skin and hair and removes waste products

Sebaceous gland Produces sebum to lubricate the hair and skin

Dermal papilla New cells for hair growth are produced

Sweat gland Produces sweat to cool the body

Arrector pili muscle Muscle contracts to raise the hair into an upright position to trap in air for warmth

Hair follicle The pocket in which the hair grows

Hair shaft The part of the hair above the skin and scalp – provides protection to the scalp

Hair bulb Created as new hair cells form

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Learners must know the growth cycle of the hair:

Learners must know the growth cycle of the hair and its importance for underpinning advice and guidance given to the client. Examples include

- Knowledge of hair growth will enable learners to give advice on the frequency of visits for maintaining styles

- Knowledge of the hair growth cycle helps to understand hair growth related problems

- Knowledge of how hormones affect hair growth, e.g. onset of male pattern baldness

Learners must know the stages of hair growth and what happens at each stage:

Anagen – the active growing stage, most of the hair is in this stage at any one time

Catagen – the period of change (transitional stage), a small percentage of the hair is in this stage at any one time. Hair growth stops and the hair bulb detaches from the dermal papilla

Telogen – the resting stage, there is no further growth or activity in the dermal

Early anagen – at the end of the telogen stage, hair re-enters into an early anagen stage where the hair follicle lengthens downwards and the dermal papilla becomes active again. New hair begins to form, pushing out old hair from the follicle

Learners must know hair loss conditions:

Losing hair can be alarming for all people. Knowledge relating to hair loss conditions will enable learners to form decisions for follow-on services. For example learners must be able to recognise hair loss/thinning hair, as it may be a contra-indication to hair extension services. Learners must know the importance of not offering a diagnosis and who to report to. Learners must recognise hair loss conditions and be able to relate the hair growth cycle to the following conditions

- Alopecia Total hair loss on the scalp

Total hair loss on scalp and body

- Hair loss in patches

- Traction alopecia – hair loss at the point of tension

- Male pattern baldness – may present as receding hair line and hair loss at crown

- Hair loss as a result of chemotherapy – usually temporary and hair is lost over scalp and body

- Hair loss as a result of medication or medical conditions, e.g. thyroid imbalance

- Hair loss as a result of hormonal changes, e.g. after giving birth

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Learners must know factors that can prevent or restrict hairdressing services: Learners must know the adverse hair and skin conditions that may prevent or restrict hairdressing services

Infectious conditions

Bacterial

infection

Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Sycosis

barbae

(barber’s

itch)

Small yellow spots around the follicle with irritation and inflammation

Bacterial infection of the hairy parts of the face

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to GP

Impetigo Burning irritation with spots appearing on the skin becoming dry and crusted

Bacterial infection of the upper layers of the skin

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to GP

Folliculitis Inflammation of the hair follicles

Bacterial infection which can be caused by harsh physical or chemical actions

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to the GP

Furunculosis Boils or abscesses Bacterial infection of the hair follicle by staphylococcal bacteria

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to the GP

Viral infection

Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Herpes Simplex

Cold sore – burning irritation, swelling and inflammation. Fluid filled blisters, usually on the lips and surrounding areas

Viral infection of the skin, possibly following exposure to extreme heat, other infections or reaction to food or drugs

Yes Referral to pharmacist

Warts Raised, roughened skin, often brown or discoloured

Viral infection in the lower epidermis causing the cells to multiply and harden

Yes If warts are found

on the head,

avoid the area.

Do not proceed

with salon service

if the warts are

open, sore or

weeping.

Referral to

pharmacist

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Fungal infection

Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Ringworm

(Tinea

capitis)

Circular bald patch of grey whitish skin surrounded by red rings, sometimes seen with broken hairs close to the skin

Fungal infection of the hair or skin

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to

GP

Animal parasites

Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Scabies An itchy rash usually found in folds of the skin

Infestation of an itch mite, burrowing into the skin where its lays eggs

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Medical referral to

GP

Head Lice

(Pediculosis

capitis)

Head lice and nits

(eggs) attached to

the upper hair shaft,

close to the scalp

Infestation of head lice on the hair and scalp

Yes No salon services

to be offered

Referral to the

pharmacist

Non-infectious conditions

Condition Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Acne Raised spots and

bumps within the

skin, commonly

upon the face in

adolescents

Increased sebum and blocked pores

No Salon services

can be

performed,

however avoid

chemicals on any

broken skin and

care must be

taken when using

a comb around

the hairline.

Medical referral to GP

Alopecia areata

Bald patches Physiological condition or stress

No Referral to

trichologist

Male pattern baldness

Receding hairline or

loss at the crown

area

Male pattern baldness is hereditary

No Medical treatment is currently being developed

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Cicatricial alopecia

Balding due to scarring of the skin

The hair follicles are destroyed from physical or chemical damage and replaced by scar tissue, leading to loss of hair or baldness

No Referral to

trichologist

Alopecia

totalis

Complete hair loss The hair follicles are not able to produce new hair

No Referral to

trichologist

Traction alopecia

Hair loss as a result of excessive pulling

Excessive pulling, brushing, curling, straightening or through braiding

No None

Dandruff

(Pityriasis

capitis)

Small greyish, white flakes of skin

A fungal (yeast-like) infection, or through physical or chemical irritation

No Anti-dandruff

treatments

Eczema Red inflamed itchy skin, sometimes weeping and split with irritation

Physical irritation or allergic reaction

No Salon services

can be performed,

however avoid

chemicals on any

broken skin

Medical referral to

GP

Contact dermatitis

Inflammation that occurs when the skin comes into contact with a particular substance

Irritant Contact

Dermatitis – can

flare up after contact

with strong

chemicals such as

lightener. More

commonly it

develops gradually

through frequent

wet working or

working with milder

chemicals such as

shampoo.

Allergic Dermatitis –

can develop quickly

after contact with a

substance such as

shampoo or colour.

It can take months

or even years for

the allergy to

develop.

No Medical referral to

the GP

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Seborrhoea Oily, lank hair, making styling difficult

Over production of

sebum

No Astringent

shampoos/scalp

treatments

Referral to

trichologist in

extreme cases

Psoriasis Areas of thickened skin, raised and patchy. Often on the scalp and the joints of arms and legs

Unknown No Medical referral to

a GP

Uneven skin surface

Excessive pitting and scarring in facial hair region

Extreme acne No Contra-indication

to shaving

services if

excessive

Adverse hair conditions

Condition Symptoms Cause Infectious Treatment/advice

Fragilitis crinium

Dry, splitting hair ends

Harsh physical or chemical treatments

No Remove the split ends by cutting the hair. Deep penetrating conditioners will improve the hair condition

Trichorrhexis nodosa

Swollen, hardened areas of the hair shaft

Physical damage or chemical treatments

No Provide cutting services and penetrating conditioners will improve the hair condition

Monilethrix Bead like swellings along the hair shaft, often breaks at weaker points

Rare hair defect that is hereditary and caused by an uneven production of keratin

No Treat very carefully within the salon

Damaged cuticle

Rough, raised, missing areas of cuticle, hair loses its moisture and becomes dry and porous

Harsh treatments, chemical over-processing or general weathering of the hair

No Providing cutting services and restructurant treatments will improve hair condition

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Learners must understand the importance and purpose of consultation tests

There is a range of tests that learners must know and manufacturer’s instructions must always be followed. The results of tests will directly indicate whether or not it is safe to recommend or proceed with a service. Failure to carry out tests can cause irretrievable damage to the hair and scalp or cause severe allergic reaction

Test Purpose How to perform test

Skin test, skin allergy test

To assess the reaction of the skin to chemicals within products; specifically colouring and hair extension bonding agents. Conduct testing according to manufacturer guidelines

Clean the area prior to carrying out the skin test. Apply a small amount of the client’s chosen colour behind the client’s ear or the crease of their elbow. The skin test takes place 24-48 hours prior to the colouring service. Refer to manufacturer’s instructions as this may vary. Occasionally colours are required to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide before performing a skin test.

Development strand test

To assess the development of a colour during processing.

Whilst the colour is developing on the client’s hair, remove the colouring product from a small section of hair with a piece of cotton wool or the back of the comb to assess colour development and to check for even coverage of colour.

Colour test/test cutting

To assess the suitability of a chosen colour, the amount of processing time required and the final colour result; a cutting of hair is tested in the proposed products for use.

A small amount of hair is cut from an unnoticeable area. Apply the proposed colour or lightening products and develop following manufacturer’s instructions.

Pre-perm test curl

To assess the lotion suitability, rod size and development time prior to perming.

The perming process is carried out on a small section of attached hair or a small amount of hair which has been cut from the client’s hair. Wind the hair around the chosen size of perm rod, apply selected lotion, develop for the manufacturer’s specified time, rinse and neutralise.

Development test curl

To assess the development of curl during the perming process.

During the development process of a perm, at different areas of the head, unwind perm rods without letting the hair unravel completely to assess development of the perm solution. Hold the rod firmly, push towards the scalp allowing hair to relax into an ‘S’ shape. When the size of the ‘S’ shape corresponds to the diameter of the perm rod, the perm lotion can be rinsed from the hair and the neutralisation process can take place.

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Incompatibility test

To assess the presence of metallic salts in the hair.

Take a small cutting from the client’s hair and place it in a solution of 20ml 6% hydrogen peroxide and 1ml of perm solution in a bowl. Leave up to 30 minutes to check for a reaction. Signs of a positive reaction are bubbling, fizzing, discolouration or the solution may give off heat. These signs indicate that metallic salts are present in the hair.

Elasticity test To assess the inner strength of the hair’s cortex.

Take a few strands of dampened hair and hold each end firmly between the thumb and forefinger of each hand. Gently pull the hair. If the hair stretches more than half its original length and does not return to its original length then the hair is over-elastic and may break during chemical processing.

Porosity test To assess the amount of damage to the hair’s cuticle layer and, therefore, the hairs ability to absorb and retain moisture.

Take a few strands of hair and hold them firmly. Run your fingers gently down the hair shaft, points to roots, to check if the cuticle layer is lifted.

Pull test To detect hair loss conditions and the hair’s ability to sustain weight and increased tension, specifically for hair extension services.

Gently pull small sections of hair whilst sliding the fingers from root to point on at least three areas of the scalp.

Learners must know the importance of carrying out tests and the potential consequences of failing to do so:

Test factors: Learners must:

When to carry out tests Identify the triggers and visible signs that can ‘alert’ to testing

How to carry out tests Know the methods of testing and test by following the manufacturers’ guidelines

Positive and negative indicators of test results

Know that positive test results do not always indicate that a service may go ahead. For example, in the case of a skin test, a positive result indicates that a client has reacted adversely to the test. Therefore, the service is contra-indicated. Similarly, learners must know that a negative test result may indicate that a service may go ahead, e.g. porosity test – a negative result indicates the hair has good porosity

The implications of the results in relation to the intended service

Know whether test results indicate that the intended service may take place

The consequences of failing to carry out tests

Know the effect on the hair, skin and legal implications of not carrying out tests

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How to communicate the findings of tests Explain the test results in a way the client understands

How to communicate the implications of the results in relation to the intended service

Communicate in a way to overcome any client disappointment if test results indicate the intended service cannot take place

How to review the options available Consider and discuss all alternative options available with the clients

How to recommend another course of action that is agreeable to the client

Make recommendations and adapt the service with the most suitable alternative with which the client is happy

Learners must know factors that may influence or restrict hairdressing services:

Hair growth pattern – this relates to the direction hairs grow from the scalp or face (facial hair) and may influence the desired finish. Analysis of hair growth patterns is of high importance in all hairdressing services, e.g. for men’s shaving and beard shaping the growth pattern will influence the direction of strokes when shaving facial hair and the shape of a beard that is suitable for a client. When blow-drying, selection of appropriate tools and products may help overcome a difficult hair growth pattern, e.g. a client with a ‘cows-lick’ may achieve a fringe temporarily with correct products, tools, equipment and techniques

Hair length – the length of hair influences the amount of time required for the service and type of product to be used. Depending on hair classification and condition, the length will also determine the techniques to be used for each service to suit the client requirements

Texture – is defined as the circumference of an individual hair and whether the hair is fine, medium or coarse to the touch. Texture may affect the porosity of the hair. When assessing texture it is important to determine the texture in different areas of the head, or facial hair in relation to men’s shaving and beard shaping. Facial hair texture, along with facial hair density, will influence the shape of beard to be recommended to the client. Analysis of texture is of high importance during analysis for hair extension services, occasion hair and competition hair; for example, hair that is fine combined with low density may contra-indicate hair extension services

Client requirements – the consultation gives the opportunity to establish the client’s requirements. Misunderstandings can be avoided by using careful questioning and listening techniques along with suitable visual aids

Density – is defined as the number of hairs on the scalp. Density will affect the choice of products, tools, techniques used and the timing for the service. When assessing density, it is important learners know how to determine the density on different areas of the head or facial hair in relation to men’s shaving and beard shaping. Learners must know how this relates to the follow-on services in conjunction with the hair classification. For example, a client with Type 1a hair (straight and fine) with a density that is low on the top of the head would require styling products to provide hold and give volume. Styling techniques should be selected to increase volume on the top of the head to create an overall balanced effect

Lifestyle – the consultation gives the opportunity through questioning and careful observation to discover the lifestyle preferences of clients. Lifestyle along with personality and age will influence the suitability of a salon service with regard to the image it gives clients and the maintenance it demands. For example, some clients will want to project a self-confident, outgoing personality through a colourful, quirky, attention-grabbing style. Clients who are shy, retiring and not wishing to stand out in the crowd will be better suited to more moderate colour or styling

Head, face and body shape – the individual head, face and body shape of each client will have an influence on the selection of styles and cuts. Learners must know which hair shapes are suitable and give the most flattering shape. Learners must know hair shapes that accentuate the client’s best features and minimising features the client has concerns

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about. When considering the impact a style or facial hair pattern has on body shape, the overall proportions need to be considered. For example, a shoulder-length, layered cut, styled with a lot of volume, would be a more flattering style for a tall, large-framed client who has a long neck, than a short, cropped cut that is styled with no volume

History of allergic reactions – a person who has a history of allergic reaction to any other product or substances is likely to be at greater risk of sensitivity and/or allergic reactions to hairdressing products and in particular permanent hair colour containing Para-phenylenediamine (PPD). Learners must use suitable questioning techniques to establish previous allergic reactions and use allergy alert testing

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LO4 Be able to prepare for client consultation

Prepare themselves and the work area prior to client consultation:

Preparation of learners. Learners must present themselves professionally, displaying - Correct dress code for the organisation

- Readiness for the service

- Personality/persona fitting for the salon

- Good communication and listening skills

- Preparation of the correct personal protective equipment (PPE) in readiness for the intended service for themselves and the client, to protect clothing from chemicals or staining

- Wearing gloves to protect the hands from chemicals and possible contact dermatitis

- Application of the correct personal protective equipment for each intended salon service. An example of this would be cutting – learners must wear closed-in shoes

Preparing the area for the consultation - Ensure safe and hygienic working area

- Area is well organised

- All resources are available

Demonstrate overall effectiveness of consultation - Identify performance including working with others to ensure the client

receives accurate information Prepare and utilise client records: Client records play a vital role in providing information about the history of the client’s hairdressing services. Learners must prepare records by ensuring the following factors

The records are available for the consultation

The record belongs to the client by checking the client’s personal details

Scrutinising the record and noting factors that may limit the intended service

Referring to the record during discussions to aid clarification regarding the client’s history of services and updating the accuracy of what is recorded

Using the information as a starting point for discussion for the intended salon service, e.g. products and chemicals that have been used, and the outcomes of previous services

Creating a new client record for a client who has not previously attended the salon

Adhere to legislative requirements regarding safety, confidentiality and security of records

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LO5 Be able to provide client consultation

Conduct examination of hair, skin and scalp:

Learners must be able to check for, and visually recognise - Hair classification

- Hair characteristics

- Hair, skin and scalp problems

- Contra-indications that would prevent or alter all services, e.g. infections and infestations

Learners must know the course of action to be taken if contra-indications are suspected, to include

- The limits and boundaries of duties

- Not to offer diagnosis

- Which conditions need reporting and when

- Whom to report to

Conduct all relevant hair and skin tests:

Where visual checks are not conclusive, it is essential for learners to carry out hair tests to check for the suitability of the follow-on salon service. Learners must be able to select and carry out all relevant tests, basing recommendations and advice on the results. Learners must follow manufacturer’s instructions and carry out relevant tests

- Skin test, skin allergy test

- Development strand test

- Colour test/test cutting

- Pre-perm test curl

- Development test curl

- Incompatibility test

- Elasticity test

- Porosity test

- Pull test (hair extensions) Identify factors which may limit or affect the desired outcome:

Learners must advise the client of the outcome of the test - The reasons why the service cannot take place

- Recommend a suitable alternative service

- Recommend alternative products

- Ensure the client agrees with recommendations

Learners must be able to identify the following limiting factors - Adverse hair, skin and scalp conditions

- Contra-indications

- Incompatibility of previous services and products used

- Lifestyle limitations

- Test results

- Head, body and face shape

Deal with problems arising from consultation – it may not be possible to proceed with the intended service due to factors that learners have identified during the consultation. To ensure client satisfaction learners must demonstrate the following

- Sensitivity to the client’s feelings: may be angry or disappointed

- Give the client realistic expectations

- Ensure timely communication so that clients are not kept waiting

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- Report to appropriate staff member where decisions exceed limits of own authority

Base recommendations on the outcomes of the examination of the hair characteristics, hair classifications and skin and scalp condition

Examine hair, skin and scalp – examination of the client’s hair characteristics, hair classification, hair, skin and scalp condition. Learners will be able to base advice and make recommendations on the products and services provided in the salon

Learners must be able to communicate their consultation findings in relation to the requested service, considering the following

- Hair classification

- Hair characteristics

- Hair, skin and scalp condition

Explain the findings of the hair examination with the client, give advice and make recommendations: It is important for the client to be fully informed of the implications of an agreed service so that they can make informed decisions on the viability of the recommendation. For example, a nurse working long shifts may be restricted by time and by constraints imposed by dress code. Learners must

Be able to explain the implications of the intended service to the client, about the following

- Cost and frequency of maintenance

- Limitations to other services

- Changes to their existing hair, skin and scalp regime

Review salon service options, agree on a course of action and provide information about products and services

Suggest suitable services for the client’s needs, suitable products, the range of services available, and be able to suggest courses of action if client requests cannot be met

Be able to offer information on the range of services available to the client to include: - Describe what the services are

- The cost of the service

- The duration of the service

- The benefits of the service

- Any drawbacks to the service

- Implications for maintenance of the service at home

- Frequency of salon maintenance

- Keep up-to-date with services available

- Current offers and promotions

- Use opportunities to promote offers and promotions to the client

- Clarify that the client understands the options and is involved in making the decision

Learners must offer information on products used for salon services that will include - Give explanations that are framed in a way that the client understands

- Relate the effect of the product on the structure of the hair

- Explain the advantages and disadvantages over other products

- Cost of the product

- Keep up-to-date with new products and offers

- Use opportunities to promote offers and products to the client

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- Clarify that the client understands the options available to them and are involved in making decisions

Learners must be able to agree on a course of action - Make suggestions about alternative services and products if client

requirements are unrealistic. As an example, if the client’s hair classification is Type 3c, and the client has identified a picture illustrating straight, sleek hair, then the desired style would be difficult to achieve and maintain. Learners need to exhibit tact when explaining why the client’s needs cannot be met and offering an alternative course of action

- Ensure the client understands the recommendations and suggestions and agree that they will fulfil their needs

Provide aftercare advice to the client: Provide information about products and aftercare. Learners must be able to

Identify the client’s homecare regime and explain the impact this will have on future services. For example, using a professional brand colour protecting shampoo will prolong the life of a colour and diminish colour fade. Learners should recommend the appropriate retail products and advise them as to how to use them

Keep up-to-date with products and services available and offers or promotions that the salon offers and promote these to the client

Offer information on retail products – offer advice and guidance to the client about hair and scalp care, how to use products, the benefits and any drawbacks of the product or cost implications

Give advice on improving the client’s hair care regime

Maintain accurate client records:

Learners must update client records with the findings of the consultation

Update changes in clients’ personal details

Results of tests

Factors limiting or affecting the service

Techniques used for the service, in detail

Products used for technical services and development times

Outcome of the service – success of the service, client satisfaction of the service, suggestions for the next service

Use clear and accurate language and ensure the record is completed in full; if the record is handwritten, the writing must be legible

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Skin cancer awareness

Please note this information will not be assessed for the achievement of this unit. Public awareness of skin cancer has never been higher, and yet skin cancer remains the

fastest growing cancer in the UK, especially amongst young people. The chances of a

positive outcome can be dramatically increased with early identification and diagnosis.

Professionals in hair, beauty, sports massage and health and wellbeing industries work

closely with clients and in many cases have sight of areas of skin which may not be easily

visible to the client. An informed awareness of the signs, symptoms and changes of

appearance to be aware of when checking for early signs of cancer is a crucial tool for the

conscientious practitioner in order to provide the most thorough service and in some cases,

possibly lifesaving information signposting.

Signs to look for when checking moles include utilising the ABCDE guide:

A - Asymmetry – the two halves of the area/mole may differ in their shape and not match.

B - Border – the edges of the mole area may be irregular or blurred and sometimes show

notches or look ‘ragged’.

C - Colour – this may be uneven and patchy. Different shades of black, brown and pink may

be seen.

D - Diameter – most but not all melanomas are at least 6mm in diameter. If any mole gets

bigger or changes see your doctor.

E - Elevation/evolving – elevation means the mole is raised above the surface and has an

uneven surface. Looks different from the rest or changing in size, shape or colour. Anyone

can get a suspicious mole or patch of skin checked out for free by the NHS by visiting their

doctor, who may then refer to a dermatologist (an expert in diagnosing skin cancer).

If you require any additional NHS information please refer to https://www.nhs.uk/be-clear-on-

cancer/symptoms/skin-cancer

If your learners are interested in learning more about skin cancer awareness alongside this

qualification, VTCT runs the following qualification: VTCT Level 2 Award in Skin Cancer

Awareness for Non-Healthcare Professionals.

This qualification has been specifically designed for those working in the sports massage,

health and wellbeing, beauty, hairdressing and barbering sectors. It will enable learners to

identify any changes to their client’s skin and to highlight those changes to the client using

appropriate language and communication skills. It will enable the learner to raise awareness

of skin cancer and signpost their clients to public information about skin cancer.

This qualification will enable hair, beauty and wellbeing professionals to gain the appropriate

knowledge and communication skills required to provide non-diagnostic, professional advice

and information to clients in a discrete, empathetic and confidential manner.

For more information please refer to the Record of Assessment book:

https://qualifications.vtct.org.uk/finder/qualfinder/1Record%20of%20Assessment%20Book/A

G20529.pdf

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Assessment criteria

Assessment criteria will be applied to the graded practical assessment. In order to pass this unit, learners must at a minimum achieve all pass criteria. The pass criteria relate to the proficient demonstration of skills and knowledge. All criteria within a given grade must be achieved to be awarded that grade.

Learning outcome

The learner must:

Pass

The learner can:

Merit

To achieve a merit grade, in addition to achievement of the pass criteria, the learner can:

Distinction

To achieve a distinction grade, in addition to achievement of the pass and merit criteria, the learner can:

LO4 Be able to prepare for client consultation

P1 Prepare themselves and the work area prior to client consultation

M1 Adjust communication techniques to meet individual needs of the client

M2 Promote products and additional services

D1 Evaluate the effectiveness of the consultation

P2 Prepare and utilise client records

LO5 Be able to provide client consultation

P3 Conduct examination of hair, skin and scalp

P4 Conduct all relevant hair and skin tests

P5 Identify factors which may limit or affect the desired outcome

P6 Explain the findings of the hair examination with the client, give advice and make recommendations

P7 Provide aftercare advice to the client

P8 Maintain accurate client records

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Assessment guidance

Assessors must use the amplified assessment guidance in this section to judge whether assessment criteria have been achieved in the graded practical assessment.

P1 Prepare themselves and the work area prior to client consultation

Learners must demonstrate a clean and professional appearance, by ensuring they have clean and styled hair, well-groomed nails, and if make-up is worn that it is in keeping with the guidelines of the organisation.

Learners must wear uniform or clothing that is clean and free from creases. Learners must show that they have selected and worn the correct PPE for themselves and adequately selected the correct PPE for the client.

Learners must demonstrate hygienic and professional practice in relation to the work areas and the salon environment by showing that they have cleaned and sterilised tools prior to use and safety checks have been carried out. The work area should be free from hair and non-essential items.

Learners must avoid trip and slip hazards such as trailing wires, client’s belongings and wet hair on the floor.

Learners must avoid cross-contamination by using disposable items, clean tools and equipment.

P2 Prepare and utilise client records

Learners must demonstrate the utilisation of client records, by showing that they have confirmed the details on the record with an existing client and used the information as a basis for the current consultation.

Learners must identify any factors that may limit or affect the required service and create a new client record to detail the findings of the current consultation with a new client.

P3 Conduct examination of hair, skin and scalp

Learners must demonstrate appropriate questioning techniques, as well as conducting visual and manual checks for contra-indications.

Learners must ask questions to determine health factors that may limit or affect services. Learners must ask questions related to the history of previous hair services. Learners must ask questions relating to the client’s current hair care regime and lifestyle.

Learners must examine the hair and scalp to identify contra-indications and factors that will influence the techniques used during the service.

Learners must examine hair characteristics and classifications and use the findings to give advice and make recommendations to the client.

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P4 Conduct all relevant hair and skin tests

Learners must demonstrate that they have selected and carried out all hair and skin tests that are relevant to the service.

Learners must have considered all the tests, and carried out the tests that will indicate the suitability of the intended service.

Learners must use the test results to select the products intended for use as part of the service.

Learners must also have explained to the client why it is necessary to perform hair tests, the likely outcome of the tests and how the test results may affect the requested hair services.

P5 Identify factors which may limit or affect the desired outcome

Learners must demonstrate that they have considered the results of the examination of the hair, skin and scalp and identified factors that may reveal that the client’s requirements cannot be met. Learners must identify limiting factors. Limiting factors may include hair classification, hair characteristics, incompatibility with previous services or products, head, face and body shape, prominent features, results of tests, lifestyle, cost and time commitment to maintenance.

Learners must demonstrate that they can recommend suitable alternative courses of action and review the options available for the client.

Learners must have explained the reasons why the requested service cannot take place. The learner must offer suggestions that are beneficial to the client and their requests. For example, if the findings of hair characteristics indicate that the hair is not suitable for lightening, then an explanation of the results and the reasons for the unsuitability of the product should be followed by a recommendation for an alternative, more suitable colouring product.

P6 Explain the findings of the hair examination with the client, give advice and make recommendations

Learners must demonstrate that they can provide clear explanations for the findings of the consultation and analysis. Learners must be able to explain accurate findings and give well-reasoned explanations. Learners must show that they have modified expressions and language and interpreted the results in a way that the client will understand. Learners must demonstrate that they can make recommendations by showing that they have based their recommendations on the consultation findings and the requests of the client.

Learners must ensure the clients understand the recommendations and encourage the client to express any views and concerns, and allow sufficient time for them to do this.

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P7 Provide aftercare advice to the client

Learners must demonstrate that they can give accurate advice. Learners must have relayed the cost of further services, the frequency of repeat visits, products that are necessary for upkeep of the service, and how to maintain their hair between salon visits.

Learners must demonstrate their knowledge of the science of the hair, skin and scalp by their ability to provide advice on hair, skin and scalp conditions. Learners must provide advice on maintenance of services and how to improve the client’s hair-care regime. For example relating the average rate of hair growth to the frequency of returning to the salon for further cutting services. Another example may be discussing the structure of the hair, in relation to the porosity of the hair and recommendations for condition-restoring products.

P8 Maintain accurate client records

Learners must demonstrate that they have updated the client record with details resulting from the consultation.

Learners must record the date, any changes to client personal details (telephone number, address etc.), results of tests and details of any chemical service carried out. For example in the case of a colouring service, a description of the products and techniques used and the outcome of the finished service with recommendations for future, repeat services.

M1 Adjust communication techniques to meet individual needs of the client

Communication techniques will vary from client to client depending upon their individual needs. Learners must demonstrate a wide use of communication skills including positive body language and attitude. They must demonstrate that all communication is ethical, respectful and inoffensive. Learners must respond to verbal and non-verbal cues.

Examples may include:

Prepare key points of consultation – these can be already written down to help them focus on important points; use of body language to agree points, e.g. smiling/nodding, asking specific questions when noticing the client frowning, speaking clearly, maintaining an even tone and making eye contact, keeping body language relaxed and open, remaining focused on the client and not being distracted by others, staying calm and in control of the service, repeating important points, not interrupting the client, i.e. allowing the client to express their own views, provide feedback or reinforce important points whenever possible, e.g. ‘is this what you would like….’, use of visual aids to support the consultation where language causes problems.

The learner will engage in unobtrusive conversation with the client ensuring that the communication is ‘two-way’ and that the client’s questions or viewpoints are listened to or acted upon in a positive way. Where additional information is required from another colleague or senior stylist/barber, the learner assures the client.

Learners must show that they can assure and reassure the client throughout the consultation.

Learners should demonstrate the skill to focus on the consultation whilst also maintaining their client care and evidence an individual approach.

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M2 Promote products and additional services

Learners must demonstrate that they can use the findings and information elicited from the consultation to give advice and make recommendations based on influencing factors identified during consultation.

Learners must communicate their planned service to the client with clear reason and explanation for specific service modification decisions, that link to the points discussed during consultation – for example due to the identification of a restricting contra-indication or sensitivity to products, applications or services. Advising and communicating with clients may involve other parties, i.e. senior stylists/barbers who will be able to explain more fully any influencing factors that may be required to adapt a specific service requirement.

Learners must demonstrate that they relate the questions and information provided during the consultation specifically to the client’s individual needs; this will be demonstrated by the learner evidencing they have adapted and tailored their questioning techniques, the question form and content to ascertain specific information from the individual client.

Learners should recommend further follow-on treatments, services or products that match the individual needs of the client.

D1 Evaluate the effectiveness of the consultation

Advice and consultation services are about the learner understanding the client’s needs or requests; in turn they are about the client understanding the influencing factors that may be pertinent to the service required. They are about both parties being able to consider all the facts based upon the outcome of the advice and consultation.

The consultation result leaves the client confident and assured that the service request will be carried out to their specific requirements and recommendations and future services will have been agreed by both parties.

Learners must be able to explain and evaluate the effectiveness of the consultation and be able to state all of the possible courses of action for the service.

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Resources

The special resources required for this unit are access to a real or realistic working environment which supports the provision of hairdressing services. Learners must also have access to health and safety standards, manufacturers’ instructions and hairdressing products and equipment, visual aids and colour charts. Recommended books:

NVQ/SVQ Level 2 Hairdressing various publishers Recommended websites:

www.hairdressing.ac.uk

Delivery guidance

Teachers are encouraged to use innovative, practical and engaging delivery methods to enhance the learning experience. Learners may benefit from:

Meaningful employer engagement so they relate what is being learned to the real world of work and understand commercial competency and the use of products, tools and equipment

Work experience within a commercial hair salon or pop-up salon so they can practise their skills in a real and supervised environment

Using interactive information and technology, systems and hardware so they can learn about concepts and theories, research current trends, research product knowledge and produce visual aids

Links with other units

This unit is closely linked to all practical units offered throughout the VTCT qualification suite. Performing a thorough consultation before all services is a necessity for learners. Learners will be required to apply knowledge and understanding of health and safety to consultation services when providing services in a real or realistic working environment.

Graded synoptic assessment

At the end of the qualification of which this unit forms part, there will be a graded synoptic assessment which will assess the learner’s ability to identify and use effectively in an integrated way an appropriate selection of skills, techniques, concepts, theories, and knowledge from a number of units from within the qualification. It is therefore necessary and important that units are delivered and assessed together and synoptically to prepare learners suitably for their final graded assessment.

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Version Details of amendments Date

v5 Skin cancer awareness page added

14/06/17

v6 Amended typographical error on page 12

02/07/2018