UgandaA n E l e g a n t A d v e n t u r e

English

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Ugandarom the moment you land at Entebbe’s modern andefficient international airport, with its breathtakingequatorial location on the forested shore of island-strewn Lake Victoria, it is clear that Uganda is noordinary safari destination.

Dominated by an expansive golf course leading down to thelakeshore, and a century-old botanical garden alive with thechatter of acrobatic monkeys and colourful tropical birds,Entebbe itself is the least obviously urban of all comparablysized African towns. Then, just 40km distant, sprawled acrossseven hills, there is the capital Kampala. The bright modernfeel of this bustling, cosmopolitan city reflects the ongoingeconomic growth and political stability that has characterisedUganda since 1986, and is complemented by the slopingspaciousness and runaway greenery of its garden setting.

Ecologically, Uganda is where the East African savannah meetsthe West African jungle. Where else but in this impossibly lushcountry can one observe lions prowling the open plains in themorning and track chimpanzees through the rainforestundergrowth the same afternoon, then the next day navigatetropical channels teeming with hippo and crocs before settingoff into the misty mountains to stare deep into the eyes of amountain gorilla? Certainly, Uganda is the only safaridestination whose range of forest primates is as impressive asits selection of plains antelope. And this verdant biodiversity isfurther attested to by Uganda’s status as by far the smallest ofthe four African countries whose bird checklist tops the1,000 mark!

Yet there is more to the country than wildlife – far more! Thereis the mighty Nile, punctuated by the spectacular MurchisonFalls, and the setting for some of the world’s most thrillingcommercial white-water rafting. There are the snow-cappedpeaks of the Rwenzori, which provide a tantalising challenge todedicated mountaineers, as well as the Virunga Volcanoes andMount Elgon, both of which offer highly rewarding hikingopportunities through scintillating highland scenery. Moresedately, the myriad islands of Lake Victoria and Bunyonyi areidyllic venues, as are the myriad forest-fringed crater lakes thatstud the rift valley floor and escarpment around Fort Portal.Whether you’re a first time safari-goer or a seasoned Africantraveller, Uganda – with its unique blend of savannah andforest creatures, its rare wealth of montane and lake habitats –is simply dazzling.

FAn Elegant Adventure

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Africa’s Friendliest Countryganda’s reputation as ‘Africa’s Friendliest Country’stems partly from the tradition of hospitality commonto its culturally diverse populace, and partly from theremarkably low level of crime and hassle directed attourists.

But this amiable quality extends beyond the easygoing people.Uganda’s eco-friendliness is attested to by the creation of sixnew national parks under the present administration, as well asa recent mushrooming of community-based eco-tourismprojects at the grassroots level, while the mood of socialenlightenment is characterised by the progressive and muchlauded policies towards curbing the spread of HIV/AIDS andpromoting women’s rights. The climate, too, is highlyagreeable, reflecting the combination of an equatorial locationand medium to high altitudes, while amenities such as hotelsand game lodges now rank with the very best Africa has tooffer.

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Getting Around

onsistently ranked among Africa’s fastest growingeconomies since President Museveni came to powerin 1986, Uganda has simultaneously experienced asteady expansion of road, communications and othervital infrastructures, and a corresponding increase ininternational tourist arrivals and upmarket facilities.

Entebbe’s modern international airport, set on the LakeVictoria shore 40 kilometres from Kampala, is serviced byseveral prominent international airlines, ensuring easy accessfrom the USA, Europe and elsewhere in Africa. Charter flightscan be arranged between domestic tourist attractions.

Kampala is a modern capital serviced by an excellent selectionof international hotels, including a high-rise Sheraton right inthe city centre, as well as bustling malls stuffed with banks,shops, restaurants, internet cafés and cinemas. Reputablesafari operators and car rental firms based in Kampala andEntebbe offer a wealth of local experience and specialist know-how to international visitors. And whether you travel by coachor rental vehicle, or join an organised safari, surfaced roadslink the capital to other large towns such as Jinja, Mbale,Kabale, Kasese and Fort Portal, from where well-maintaineddirt roads lead to the game reserves and national parks.

Outside of the capital, most national parks and other touristhubs are serviced by at least one upmarket lodge, ensuringthat the adventurous spirit inherent to African travel iscomplemented by the full range of creature comforts: stylishen-suite accommodation, fine cuisine, a range of chilled drinksand friendly service. For business travellers, internet facilitiesare available in most large towns, while an extensive cellulartelephone network makes it possible to stay in touch with homein even the most remote of locations.

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People & Cultureituated at the geographical heart of theAfrican continent, Uganda has long been acultural melting pot, as evidenced by theexistence of 30-plus different indigenouslanguages belonging to five distinct linguisticgroups, and an equally diverse cultural mosaicof music, art and handicrafts.

The country’s most ancient inhabitants, confined to thehilly southwest, are the Batwa and Bambuti Pygmies,relics of the hunter-gatherer cultures that once occupiedmuch of East Africa to leave behind a rich legacy ofrock paintings, such as at the Nyero Rock Shelter nearKumi.

At the cultural core of modern-day Uganda lie theBantu-speaking kingdoms of Buganda, Bunyoro, Ankoleand Toro, whose traditional monarchs – reinstated in the1990s after having been abolished by President MiltonObote in 1967 – still serve as important culturalfigureheads. According to oral tradition, thesecenturies-old kingdoms are offshoots of the mediaevalkingdoms of Batembuzi and Bachwezi, which lay in thevicinity of present-day Mubende and Ntusi, wherearchaeological evidence suggests that a stronglycentralised polity had emerged by the 11th century.Three former kings of Buganda are buried in animpressive traditional thatched building at the KasubiTombs in Kampala.

Elsewhere, Uganda’s cultural diversity is boosted in thenortheast by the presence of the Karimojong, traditionalpastoralists whose lifestyle and culture is reminiscent ofthe renowned Maasai, and in the northwest by apatchwork of agricultural peoples whose Niloticlanguages and cultures are rooted in what is now Sudan.The Rwenzori foothills are home to the hardy Bakonjo,whose hunting shrines are dedicated to a one-legged,one-armed, one-eyed pipe-smoking spirit known asKalisa, while the Bagisu of the Mount Elgon region areknown for their colourful Imbalu ceremony, anindividual initiation to manhood that peaks in activityin and around August of every even numbered year.

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National Parks & Safarisprawling across both sides of the equator, a networkof 10 national parks and several other protectedareas offers wildlife enthusiasts a thrillingopportunity to experience Uganda’s biodiversity: notonly the mesmerising tracts of thorn-bush savannahteeming with antelope, buffalo and elephant onetends to associate with equatorial East Africa, butalso lush expanses of tropical rainforest, shimmeringlakes and rivers heaving with aquatic life, and theglacial peaks of Africa’s tallest mountain range.

The country’s largest protected area is Murchison FallsNational Park, whose palm-studded grassland supports densepopulations of lion, buffalo, elephant and Uganda kob, togetherwith the localised Rothschild’s giraffe and patas monkey.Immense concentrations of hippos and birds can be observedfrom morning and afternoon launch trips along the Nile belowthe spectacular waterfall for which the park is named. Rwenzori Mountains National Park protects the easternslopes and glacial peaks of the 120km-long RwenzoriMountains or ‘Mountains of the Moon’, a world-class hikingand mountaineering destination whose significance as a sourceof the Nile was first alluded to by the geographer Ptolemycirca 150 AD. Rising from the Rift Valley floor to a wintryelevation of 5,109m, the Rwenzori supports large tracts ofevergreen and bamboo forest, while the higher moorland zoneis known for its other-worldly cover of giant heathers, lobeliasand groundsels.

Set majestically in the shadow of the Rwenzori, flanking LakesEdward and George, the lush savannah of Queen ElizabethNational Park offers prime grazing to buffalo, elephant andvarious antelope. A checklist of 600-plus bird species testifiesto the extraordinary ecological diversity of this park.Mammalian specialities include the (elsewhere elusive) giantforest hog, and the legendary tree-climbing lions of theIshasha Sector.

Of Uganda’s forested reserves, Bwindi ImpenetrableNational Park is best known for its superb gorilla tracking,but it also provides refuge to elephant, chimpanzee, monkeysand various small antelope, as well as 23 bird speciesrestricted to the Albertine Rift.

Mountain gorillas also form the main attraction at MgahingaNational Park, which protects the Ugandan portion of the

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Virungas, an imposing string of nine freestanding extinct andactive volcanoes that runs along the border with Rwanda andthe Congo.

The lower-lying and more remote Semliki National Park, anUgandan extension of the Congo’s Ituri Rainforest set at thebase of the northern Rwenzori, is of special interest toornithologists for some 40 Congolese bird species recordednowhere else in the country. Nearby, the spectacular SemlikiWildlife Reserve, which abuts Lake Albert, is one of the bestlocalities for sightings of the enigmatic, swamp-dwellingshoebill.

Kibale National Park is a primatologist’s dream. It hosts apopulation of more than 1,000 chimpanzees, of which one 80-strong community has been habituated to tourist visits, as wellas half-a-dozen readily observed monkey species, includingthe acrobatic red colobus and black-and-white colobus, andthe handsome L’Hoest’s monkey.

The closest savannah reserve to Kampala, Lake MburoNational Park is centred on a series of swamp-fringed lakesknown for their rich birdlife, notably the secretive Africanfinfoot. The green acacia woodland surrounding the lakeharbours dense populations of zebra, warthog, buffalo, impalaand various other grazers, including the last survivingUgandan population of eland, the largest of African antelope.

Set on the Kenya border near Mbale, Mount Elgon NationalPark encompasses the 4,321 metre mountain for which it isnamed, which has the largest base of any extinct volcano inthe world. A lush mosaic of Afro-montane forest, grasslandand moorland habitats makes this park a highly rewardingdestination for hikers and other natural history enthusiasts.

In the far northeast, the remote, wild and little-visited KidepoValley National Park provides refuge to a long list of dry-country species not found elsewhere in the country, includingcheetah and greater kudu, while its perennial waters attractlarge numbers of elephant and thousand-strong buffalo herds,especially during the dry season.

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Gorillas & Primatesganda’s star attraction is the endangered mountaingorilla, the bulkiest of living primates, and amongthe most peaceable. Staring into the pensive browneyes of these gentle giants, who share 95% of theirgenes with humans, is as humbling as it is thrilling;no less so when one realises that fewer than 700individuals survive, divided between BwindiNational Park and the Virunga Mountains.

Within Uganda, five habituated gorilla troops – four in Bwindiand one in Mgahinga National Park – can be visited by a totalof 30 tourists daily.

Uganda is also home to man’s closest relative, the chimpanzee,a delightful ape whose evocative pant-hoot call is a definitivesound of the African rainforest. Chimpanzee communities havebeen habituated for tourism at Kibale Forest, Budongo Forestand Queen Elizabeth National Park’s Kyambura Gorge.A community of orphaned chimps, most of which wereconfiscated from poachers, can be visited on Ngamba Island,which lies on Lake Victoria 45 minutes by motorboat fromEntebbe.

Monkeys are exceptionally well represented in Uganda.Indeed, Kibale Forest boasts the greatest primate variety anddensity in East Africa, with five or six species likely to beobserved over the course of one afternoon walk. Elsewhere,Mgahinga National Park hosts habituated troops of the raregolden monkey, while Murchison Falls is one of the few EastAfrican strongholds for the spindly, plains-dwelling patasmonkey. The fossilised 20-million-year-old bones ofMorotopithecus, the earliest-known ancestor of modern apesand humans, were unearthed in the 1960s near Moroto inEastern Uganda, and are now housed in the National Museumin Kampala.

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Source of the Mighty Nilehe source of the Nile, alluded to hazily in the ancientwritings of Ptolemy, stood as one of the greatgeographical mysteries of the Victorian Age.

The desire to uncover this geographic Holy Grail inspired theepic journeys of exploration undertaken by Livingstone,Stanley, Burton and Speke. And it was the latter, JohnHanning Speke, on a pioneering 1862-3 expedition aroundLake Victoria, who first controversially suggested that a smallwaterfall flowing northward out of the lake might be thelegendary spring - a theory whose accuracy was confirmedmore than ten years later by Stanley.

Flanked today by the city of Jinja, the waterfall described bySpeke now lies submerged beneath the Owen Falls Dam,Uganda’s main source of hydro-electric power. Still, a visit tothe source of the Nile remains a moving and wondrousexperience, no less so to those who have seen the same riveras it flows past the ancient Egyptian temples of Luxor some6,000 km downstream.

Closer to home, the Nile downriver from Jinja offers somesuperb white water rafting and game fishing. Its crowningglory, however, is Murchison Falls, where the world’s longestriver funnels through a narrow fissure in the Rift Escarpmentto erupt out of the other side in a crashing 43 metres plume ofwhite water. The river below the falls is no less spectacular inits own way, with its profuse birdlife, thousands of hippos, andoutsized, gape-mouthed crocodiles.

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Lakes & Ssese Islands oughly one-quarter of Uganda’s surface area consistsof wetlands, ranging from vast inland seas to themysterious marshy expanse of Lake Kyoga, formedby the Nile as it drains into a shallow sump at thevery centre of the country.

The northwestern third of Lake Victoria, the world’s second-largest freshwater body, falls within Uganda’s boundaries,while the impressively scenic Lakes Albert and Edward extendfor 150km and 80km respectively along the Albertine RiftValley floor bordering the Congo.

Renowned for its water birds and dense population of otters,mountain-ringed Lake Bunyonyi is one of Uganda’s mostrapidly developing wetland destinations, its steep-sided shoresand small islands dotted with rustic hotels and campsites.Another rising attraction is the cluster of 200 crater lakes thatextends northward from Queen Elizabeth National Park to FortPortal, reaching its scenic peak in the vicinity of Kibale Forest,where several forest-fringed lakes have been developed ascommunity-based ecotourism projects.

The jewel in Lake Victoria’s crown is the Ssese Archipelago,whose 84 islands - some large and dotted with local fishingvillages, others small and uninhabited – are all well-wateredand lushly forested. Mainlanders traditionally revere Ssese asthe Islands of the Gods, and one specific island calledBubembe is regarded to be home to Mukasa, the spiritpresiding over Lake Victoria. The Ssese Islands make for anideal retreat after a long safari, and they also offer superbopportunities for birdwatching and for hooking heavyweightNile Perch.

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Birdwatchingransitional to the East African savannah and thewestern rainforests, Uganda is Africa’s most completebirdwatching destination, with more than 1,000species recorded within an area comparable to thatof Great Britain.

Specialist birding tours through Western Uganda routinelynotch up an incredible tally of 400 species within two weeks,while enthusiastic amateurs might reasonably hope to aim for300 species within the same time.

For dedicated ornithologists, Uganda’s prime attraction is thepresence of more than 100 West African forest species at themost easterly – and most accessible – extent of their range.This alluring list of forest specialists includes the psychedelicGreat Blue Turaco and the raucous Black-and-White CasquedHornbill, as well as the gem-like Green Broadbill and 23 otherspecies endemic to the Albertine Rift. Uganda is the bestplace to see what many rate as the most sought after Africanbird: the Shoebill, a massive prehistoric-looking swamp-dweller notable for its heavy clog-shaped bill.

Birdlife is prolific throughout Uganda, but certain key sitesshould be included in any ornithological itinerary. In thewest, these include Bwindi National Park for AlbertineRift endemics, Queen Elizabeth National Park for a peerlesschecklist of 600 species, Semliki National Park for CongoBasin endemics, Mabamba Swamp near Entebbe for Shoebill,the community-run guided trail through Bigodi Wetland nearKibale Forest for Great Blue Turaco and othercolourful forest birds, and Murchison FallsNational Park for savannah specialists such asAbyssinian Ground Hornbill, Red-Throated Bee-Eaterand Denham’s Bustard. A key birding location in easternUganda is Lake Bisina, a stronghold for the endemic Fox’sWeaver as well as papyrus-dwellers such as Shoebill andPapyrus Gonolek.

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Adventureganda is a classic adventure tourism destination.Indeed, Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the

Source of the Nile an hour’s drive east ofKampala, is the East African counterpart to moresoutherly ‘adrenaline capitals’ such as Victoria

Falls and Cape Town.

Bujagali is the launching point for a commercial white-waterrafting route that ranks as one of most thrilling but also one ofthe safest in the world, passing through three heart-stoppingGrade Five rapids in one day. Other activities at Bujagaliinclude kayaking, mountain biking, quad-biking and a new 44metre-high bungee jump from a cliff above the Nile.

Boasting three separate montane destinations topping the4,000 metre mark, all protected within national parks, Ugandaoffers some of Africa’s top hiking and climbing possibilities.Serious mountaineers need look no further than the majesticRwenzori, whose trio of craggy 5,000-plus metre glacial peaksoffers a genuine challenge to experienced alpine climbers,while fit hikers will find the six-day loop trail through theRwenzori’s forest and moorland zones to be as rewarding as itis demanding.

Further east, Mount Elgon, Africa’s eighth-highest mountain,offers an excellent and relatively undemanding introduction toAfro-montane climates and vegetation, culminating in theascent of a 6km wide volcanic caldera studded with smallwaterfalls, caves and hot springs. Another estimable hikingdestination is the Virunga Mountains, where mountain gorillatracking can be supplemented by a tough day ascent to one ofthe three extinct volcanoes protected within Mgahinga NationalPark, the tallest of which is the 4,127-metre Muhabura.

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Travel TipsGetting ThereEntebbe International Airport, which lies 40km from the capitalKampala, is serviced by a number of international airlines, includingSN Brussels, British Airways, South African Airways, Kenya Airways,Air Tanzania, Rwandair Express, Egypt Air and Ethiopian Airlines.Uganda can also be reached overland from Kenya, Rwanda andTanzania.

On ArrivalCustoms and immigration officials are polite and efficient, and a visa– for those who require one – can be purchased on the spot atEntebbe International Airport or at any overland border. Foreignexchange and ATM facilities are available at the airport, which is alsoserviced by several shops and restaurants. Most midrange toupmarket hotels in Kampala and Entebbe will arrange airporttransfers by request, as will any tour operator based in or around thecapital. Local time is GMT+3.

HealthA certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required. All visitorsshould take malaria prophylactic drugs. It is advisable to drinkbottled rather than tap water.

MoneyThe unit of currency is the Uganda shilling. The US dollar istraditionally the hard currency of preference, but Euro and PoundSterling are also widely accepted. Hard currency cash can bechanged for local currency at banks and private bureaux de change inall large towns, but travellers’ cheques are not widely acceptedoutside Kampala. Local currency can be drawn against Visa andother major credit cards at selected ATMs in Kampala, at EntebbeInternational Airport, and in a few other large towns.

LanguageEducated Ugandans are generally fluent in English, which is theofficial language. Of 30-plus different indigenous languages,Luganda serves as something of a lingua franca.

When to VisitUganda can be visited at any time, though mountain hikes, gorillatracking and other forest walks are more challenging during the rains,which generally peak over mid-September to November and March toMay.

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What to wearDaytime temperatures are generally warm to hot, so bring lots of lightclothing. Evenings are cooler, especially at high altitudes, so carry acouple of light sweaters too. Those who intend to hike on themountains will be exposed to alpine temperatures and should packaccordingly. Solid walking shoes and sturdy clothing are ideal forforest walks. Don’t forget to bring a hat, sunglasses and a waterproofjacket.

What to bringA valid passport is mandatory, and visa requirements should bechecked before you travel. To make the most of the game reservesand national parks, carry binoculars and field guides. Photographerswill need a zoom lens for wildlife (70-300 or similar). Print film anddeveloping is available in Kampala. Toiletries and other essentialscan be bought in the cities.

DrivingDriving is on the left side. Visitors without experience of Africanroads are advised to organise a vehicle with a driver rather than self-drive.

TippingTipping is not standard practice at local hotels and restaurants, but itwill always be appreciated. It is normal to tip 5-10% at tourist-oriented restaurants. Guides and drivers should always be tipped.

Food & drinkTourist-oriented hotels and restaurants serve good Western-stylemeals, while a wider range of cuisines being available in the capitaland some larger towns. Local restaurants serve Ugandan dishes,typically ugali (a stiff maize porridge) or matoke (cooked banana)eaten with a stew.

What to buyA wide selection of local handicrafts are available as souvenirs.These include musical instruments, such as the hide drums made inthe vicinity of Mpigi, as well as excellent local basketwork, paintings,batiks and pottery.

Further informationGuidebooks from Bradt, Spectrum and Lonely Planet, and a widerange of other books about Uganda, can be bought at bookstores inKampala. The Uganda Tourist Board website (www.visituganda.com)contains information about all tourist attractions and protected areas.

U G A N D A

Published for the Uganda Tourist

Board under the Uganda Sustainable

Tourism Development Programme

UGSTDP a project funded by the

European Union and implemented

by Tourism & Transport Consult

International, Dublin, Ireland.

Uganda Tourist Board

13/15 Kimathi Avenue, Impala House

PO Box 7211, Kampala, Uganda

Tel +256 (41) 342196/7

Fax +256 (41) 342188

Email: utb@starcom.co.ug

www.visituganda.com

Produced for UTB by

Camerapix (www.cameraix.com) & Fotografx (www.fotografx.biz)

Designed by Sam Kimani of Camerapix

Photographs by David Pluth of Fotografx

Text by Philip Briggs ©2004

Translations:

De, Stefan Bosshard; Fr, Nicolas Michel; It, Luigi Principi

If you want to learn more about

National Parks and Protected Areas

in Uganda, Visit the web site of the

Uganda Wildlife Authority,

www.uwa.or.ug