Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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Prints where dye or pigment paste is applied to the surface of a fabric are known as applied prints.

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Applied prints are most common; block, roller, screen, and rotary screen printing methods create applied prints.

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Design is created by applying dye or pigment paste to the fabric surface.

o Fabrics printed with dye paste are known as wet prints because steam and water are used for after treatments.

o Fabrics printed with pigment paste, known as pigment prints, require heat to dry and cure the resin binder.

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Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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Applied prints are produced on white and colored backgrounds.

o A print on a white background is an applied print.

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Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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Applied prints with colored backgrounds can be printed as blotch or overprints:

o In blotch prints, the background and pattern are printed at the same time, and white areas are visible at the back where the dye has not penetrated. Most fabrics with colored backgrounds are blotch prints.

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Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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In an overprint, the pattern is printed on previously dyed material. Overprints can be identified because the back of the fabric displays the dyed background color. Background color is always lighter if dyes are used, while pigments are used for printing light colored designs on dark backgrounds. Overprint fabrics may cost more.

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Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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Pattern clarity on the fabric back of applied prints depends on dye/pigment penetration:

o The pattern may appear similar on the fabric face and back of sheer fabrics with excellent dye penetration.

o In thicker, tightly constructed fabrics, the design may not be visible at all on the fabric back due to poor dye penetration.

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Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Applied PrintsApplied Prints

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Duplex prints (print on both sides), warp prints (printing yarns on a warp beam prior to weaving), and foil prints (applying paste and foil instead of dye or pigment) are variations of applied prints.

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fabric folded here to show prints on both sides of the fabric

Types of Prints Types of Prints –– Discharge PrintsDischarge Prints

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Discharge prints remove color to create a design; the background is darker than the design.

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Block, roller, screen, and rotary screen printing methods can be used to create discharge prints.

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The initial step is piece dyeing, using a dye that can be stripped from the fabric.

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To create a simple print, the design area is printed with a paste containing a chemical to remove color.

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To add colors, the print paste combines a chemical (to strip color) and a dye or pigment (to recolor the stripped area, overprint). Only colorants not affected by the stripping chemical can be used to recolor; pigments are used to recolor the printed area.

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Care is taken to prevent the chemical used to strip the color from weakening the fabric’s fibers.

PatternPattern

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Pattern repeat and direction are important for apparel and interior design as they assist in layout and matching fabric pieces together.

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Pattern repeat or unit is a square or rectangle (for example) repeated to create a design. The vertical and horizontal dimension of the repeat is typically included on fabric swatches for interiors.

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Pattern direction is important in layout:

o In one-way patterns, all motifs face one direction.

o In two-way patterns, motifs face two opposite directions.

o In multidirectional patterns, motifs face all directions.

Print DefectsPrint Defects

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Print defects are caused by problems with fabric preparation, print paste, and the printing process.

o A bow or a skew results in an off-grain print. A badly off- grain fabric creates problems during garment or product construction.

grain line

printed design line

Print DefectPrint Defect

o A faded look and blurred edges can result from inadequate fabric preparation.

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blurred edge

sharp edge

Print DefectPrint Defect

o Registry marks, seen as color circles or squares along the selvage of rotary screen printed fabric, show the alignment of each screen. In out-of-register or off-register prints, one or more of the screens is not aligned properly.

Registry marks show that the screens were not aligned in this fabric that was sold as a second.

Print DefectPrint Defect

o A defect can result from a crease or fold in the fabric during the printing process.

Print DefectPrint Defect

o A defect can result from yarn or lint adhering to the fabric prior to printing.

Part of the design is missing due to foreign matter, such as a piece of yarn adhering to the surface of the fabric while it was being printed.

Print DefectPrint Defect

o A defect results from bleeding due to incorrect dye selection or curing.

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