Two Canoes and a Crazy Idea

8/10/2019 Two Canoes and a Crazy Idea

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The idea began with a book I never read called The Six Hour Canoe. The ideaof building a canoe in a short period of time seemed to open up the possibilityof building the boat in a foreign country with local materials and leaving theboat when the vacation was over. I needed advice and went online to find acountry, a boat to build and the skills and tools to create this project. I wasoverwhelmed by the information and support.

There were some skeptics, my friend Pete said, Obtaining materials in aforeign land on a set time..I would suggest not bringing a watch but, instead, acalendar.

Matt from Jem Watercraft suggested I build a prototype and, beat the hell outof it, to see if it would be up to my expectations. Then he offered to draft anydesigns I wanted for this crazy idea. I accepted his offer and had the plans

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drafted in both metric and inches. I thought since I might be building thisoutside of the U.S.A. I might as well use metric. I loved it try dividing 14' 719/32" by 11 in your head. (Stubborn Americans is all I can say.)

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the Past.

by Dr. Joe
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4/24

I cut all the panels with a hand saw just in case I would not have power tools.This was not as hard as I expected. Just make sure you flex the plywood so asnot to pinch the blade. The pull saw worked great and it did not raise near asmuch dust or make as much noise.

Step 2: Butt Joints and testing
http://cdn.instructables.com/FT1/ZL50/I4PHM8E6/FT1ZL50I4PHM8E6.LARGE.jpg


5/24

I tried 4 brands of epoxy and three fillers plus drywall tape instead of fiberglasscloth. Wood flour and dry wall tape with no scarf or butt blocks. I used plasticfilm to stop the epoxy sticking to the table and boards. Instead of using a scarfjoint or butt blocks one suggestion was three layers of glass cloth on bothsides. This was brilliant it was quick and stronger than the wood.

Step 3: Tape Stitch and Glue
http://cdn.instructables.com/FDD/QD34/I4PHM8E7/FDDQD34I4PHM8E7.LARGE.jpg


6/24

Duct tape was suggested as a method of holding the panels together. Thatwas one idea I had to reject. Copper wires or cable ties worked much better.The putty was used to tack the panels into place between the wires and tape.

Step 4: Tricks we discovered.

Note the self stick drywall tape. When it would not stay put I used a strip ofplastic. The plastic would stick to the epoxy and usually had enough adhesion
http://cdn.instructables.com/FJC/ERVZ/I4PHM8LN/FJCERVZI4PHM8LN.LARGE.jpg


7/24

to hold the errant tape down. Detail of capping the raw edges of the plywood.

Step 5: Bow Seat

This shows how the bow seat was latched. Note foam rubber and bolts that goinside the holes to attach the rear of the seat. Wide shot of the bow seat

Step 6: Dry box
http://cdn.instructables.com/F72/Q16X/I4PHM7ZU/F72Q16XI4PHM7ZU.LARGE.jpg


8/24

Bungee cords were used to latch the rear hatch. The rear hatch makes for agreat dry box. The rear hatch cover with bungee cords make a great spot tostore the painter. The knot in the bungee cords are snapped in place under thenotched boards.

Step 7: Testing if Wood Floats.
http://cdn.instructables.com/F6I/U5EG/I4PHM8AF/F6IU5EGI4PHM8AF.LARGE.jpg


9/24

Testing the prototype for final stability. This took a few tries with the camera ona piling and the self timer.Heeling position. The boat was more stable than my Grumman, Mad River orColeman canoes full of water. Even full of water this floats.

Step 8: Canoe 2 in Chile Begins.
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Billy Gerhard Ernst Elizalde from Chile (Billy from Chile) offered the use of hisshed and tools for constructing the boat. He had built several wooden boatsand lives a few miles from the Bio Bio River in Southern Chile. My son Andrewat the home of Billy from Chile. Setting the seats and bulkheads. This is not theway the prototype was built. In the second image I am screwing the inwalesdown.

Step 9:
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I used cable ties instead of wire. They were much easier to remove.

This `was a better way to use the duct tape, to prevent putty leaks whenturned over. I brought all the hand tools to build this boat in a smallbriefcase. When talking to Billy from Chile I did not know what to expectwhen he offered the use of his boat building shed. I was shocked at hisgenerosity in the use of his precious power tools. In the background look atone of the boats he built.

Step 10: Finishing the hull
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Andrew cleaning up the putty after removing the tape. Smoothing the seamsbefore the final taping. Slopping on the epoxy over the fiberglass seams.

Step 11: Success
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Finished hull on Largo Grande in Concepcion Chile. I had 40 years of canoeprejudice about what hull design would be adequate. I wanted a rounded chinewith some rocker and a slight V. I found plywood was manufactured in Chileand calculated two sheets would create a 156 hull (4.7 meters). That wouldbe fine for 2 people and gear.

Step 12: Designed around the seats
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When running white water I usually move the bow paddler behind the bow seatto a kneeling position to keep the bow from diving into standing waves andlower the center of gravity. I began with the seats in this position closer to thecenter of the boat and low in the hull. This allows for fore and aft bulkheadsthat serve as frames to simplify the construction process and provide storage.

A special thanks to Matt from Jem Watercaft (jemwatercraft.com) for draftingthe plans for any boat of my design. We exchanged 24 emails on how high thebow what was the rocker where are the bulkheads and seats.
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Step 13: The Project as it was Planned.

The plan was day one to cut the plywood panels, coat them with epoxy thenbuild the seats. Day two the panels would be butt spliced with drywall tape andthen epoxy resin and wood flour was mixed to make putty. Scarf joints wouldbe made for the long boards on the gunwale and glued with putty. Day threethe fore bulkhead and seats would be used as construction frames as thepanels were attached with temporary screws and shaped with cable ties andcopper wires. The outside seams would be covered with duct tape epoxy putty

would be spread inside the hull between the cable ties. Day four ties andscrews would be removed and the uneven hull seams shaped on the outside.Drywall tape would be applied to both the inside and outside of all seams anda coat of epoxy would be brushed on the tape and very dry epoxy putty wouldbe squeegeed into the tape on both the inside and outside of the hull. Day fivetouch up the holes and coat the hull with one more coat of epoxy. That wasthe plan which went quite well except for a few problems.

One disaster occurred while using epoxy that was mixed by weight. I had readyou could spread a nice even bead of putty by putting it in a Ziplock bag thencutting off the corner to squeeze out a bead like a pastry chef. The epoxy wascuring too fast so, I figured a little less hardener would give me a little moretime to get it spread into the proper place. I had built a scale to measure the 2

to 1 weight ratio. My crude scale was a board balanced on a sharpened pieceof wood with the resin twice as far as the hardener from the fulcrum. This wasworking fine until I decided I needed more time and changed the ratio butinstead of putting the hardener closer to the fulcrum I adjusted the resin. Theputty looked good as I mixed the wood flour into peanut butter consistency thenfilled my baggie with goop. As I began to squeeze the baggie the putty beganto get warm in my hand this quickly escalated to very warm then to hot. When Icould not stand the heat I threw the baggie away and smoke began to billowout of the trash can while I worried about setting the rags sawdust and shop onfire.

I tested the online advice about glues, tools fillers joints and fasteners on my
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prototype. I tried 4 different brands of epoxy resin. I tested wood flour, fumedsilica, white all purpose flour and sawdust for fillers. I tried fiberglass, anddrywall tape for joint strength. I experimented with copper wires cable ties anddry wall screws for positioning the panels. I tried various tools and ultimatelytook a minimum of tools: my smallest surform two card scrapers (used insteadof sandpaper on green epoxy) my contour gage, a pull saw and metric tapemeasure. I also packed a handful of screws and some ringed bronze boatnails.

Step 14: Lessons Learned
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What did we learn? Joe and Andrew from Oregon, with drafting help of Mattfrom North Carolina and logistic support by Billy from Chile and advice frompaddlers across the world can build a boat in a foreign country in 72 hours.

Sea snails, barnacles, mussels and blood sausage taste better than theysound. You can build a butt joint in plywood with drywall tape and epoxy puttythat is stronger than the wood. When crawling about the floor of the shop with

epoxy on your 12 panels make sure the dogs dont come in to play with you.There are a lot of wonderful people out there messing about in boats and theirlove of boats crosses all the cultural barriers.

titchtheclown

Dr. Joe(author) titchtheclown

Congratulations on the beautiful build.

I do have to counsel against changing the mix ratio on Epoxy. Theresin and hardener are meant to be mixed at the recommended ratio.Altering the ratio will result in a lower strength cure and, as youdiscovered, can lead to rapid overheating, or no curing at all.

Of slightly less concern is that the weight ratio is slightly different to thevolume ratio. My epoxy has a 2 to1, or 1 to 0.5 resin to hardener ratioby volume but a 1 to 0.44 ratio when mixed by weight. In practice thisdifference is not that important.

Epoxy is also temperature sensitive so reducing the temperature (eg

by doing your epoxying early in the morning, or late at night) willextend the cure time. I put my leftover epoxy in the freezer and itkeeps for a few weeks. The epoxy I use can be purchased with a rangeof different hardeners, from low temperature cure to tropical cure.

Thank you for the tips. I have learned the lesson from theschool of hard knocks. Wish I had talked to you first. I like theidea of putting it in the freezer. How do you cover it to keep

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rnorton2

estructor

Dr. Joe(author) estructor

billbillt

Dr. Joe(author) billbillt

steveofthenw

from contaminating the food? How do you warm it up to use it?

wow!! bold and beautiful, well done, where are the plans?

What a great project, what a great story. Defying limitations,improvising, trialling methods & materials, proving the possibilities inorder to do a favorite pastime far from home. Agree with readerborogoves that purposeful travel makes for a much richer experience.(Of course!, or, "si-pu!", they would say in Chile, short for "por supuesto.") I often get restless travelling, if I haven't brought my bicycle,(which is a great leveler) I'll go to the docks, visit hardware stores(herramientas) or look for some other way, to observe "la viequotidienne." Thanks for this instructable!

I've built a few small boats myself, and reading your account was

better than candy!

My skin kayak:

http://werkinprogrs.blogspot.com/2011/02/blog-post...

Essay on Wood & water:

http://werkinprogrs.blogspot.com/2013/01/wood-and-...

I enjoyed your blog so much I want to build a skin on frame hullnow. What thickness of fabric and what was the completedweight of your kyak?

Great!.....Thanks for doing this with hand tools instead of expensivepower tools.... This way EVERYBODY can build this..

I love the hand tools. You don't have to wear the protectivegear and it really does not take that much longer and someprojects.

Awesome build. Wonder how much of a hassle it'd be to incorporate a
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Dr. Joe(author) steveofthenw

GardenFork

Dr. Joe(author) GardenFork

grapenut

wlahti

transom into the stern in case you ran across a cheap outboard motor?

Putting a transom would be super easy. Just chop off the pointyend and put a board.

Thanks for posting this, enjoyed your project. I've built some simpleplywood boats. May I ask a few beginner questions?

When do you remove the cable ties?

Is the drywall mesh tape a substitute for fiberglass cloth, and do youremove it at some point?

Epoxy putty, is this the thicker version of the fiberglass epoxy or is thisa certain brand-type of epoxy?

thanks for you time! eric.

Thank you for looking at my story. I remove the cable ties thenext day, The key is when the glue holds the panels together. Ifyou used 5 minute epoxy you could do it much sooner.

The drywall tape was a substitute for the fiberglass cloth. It is alooser weave but you can always put more layers. It is notremoved. If you use duct tape clear packing tape or maskingtape to keep the putty from leaking you need to remove it muchsooner. Before the resin has bound too well to the tape anddoes not drip. That can be as soon as 30 minutes.

Epoxy putty is home made by adding a filler. You can purchasemicroballons or wood flower or you can use fine sawdust oreven baking flour. You mix this into the epoxy until it is theconsistency of peanut butter.

Build something awsome!

Very well done!!!

Regarding metric: Yeah - I'm still waiting for the US to join the 19thcentury.
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victorvector

bchester

Leningrad_Cowboy

bevin.chu

jim.roach.106

BG_instructs

Very cool project !

Thank you for posting this .

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?182813-Shantyboat-for-two

This is Excellent!!

Great story. Excellent project. Thanks.

Making the boat "unsinkable" was a great idea.

I realize that large commercial vessels cannot always be madeunsinkable for practical reasons.

But a pleasure craft such as canoe, row boat, sailboat, or power boatought to be made unsinkable for safety's sake.

Very clever work with the duct tape, plastic ties, epoxy and all.Altogether a very nice looking job as well. John Montague and RichardButz of BMC, Buffalo wrote "the book" and we have several of thesetypes of boats being built by after school programs. I have not met himbut someone at the center states there is a fellow who makes his ownplywood for these. Absolutely correct about ratio on epoxy andtemperature, turning up the heat in the center can cause bubbling.

You are the best

i hate it when such projects seem so deaqd easy, makes me wonnatry it too, what am i going to do with a boat?..:-)

Incredible project, wonder how thick is the plywood?
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Dr. Joe(author) BG_instructs

BG_instructs Dr. Joe

Dr. Joe(author) BG_instructs

mikeasaurus

jim.neill.54

Dr. Joe(author)

The first canoe I built my son was more interested in videogames. I asked him to come hold a board for me. As I planedfor a few minutes I complained my arms were tired so he couldplane. As those long thin curls of aromatic cedar peeled off thatplank he was hooked. We went on to build 4 boats together. Heis now the head mechanic at an REI store. I suggest you enjoythe building and exploring new places.

The plywood was 4 mm but you can use any thicknessdepending how much weight you are willing to carry.

Hi Dr Joe,

great story, only 4mm, ok, now i understand you are able tobend it like that.

Never had a hole in it? 4 mm seems so thin.

While running white water on the Umpqua River. I hit a rockthat was just below the surface. The sound was heart brakingof crunching wood. I was certain my trip was over and I wouldhave to hike out. I kept waiting for the rush of water to come upand nothing happened. I took a second look and could not seeany damage under my kneeling pad. I continued to the take outsome miles later and when I turned the canoe over there was a2 inch scrape. I put on a bit of epoxy and have continued using

it.

This was a great story, thanks for sharing your build!

Love it! When you come to NC - you think you could be talked intogilding me through the steps?

Thank you for all the nice comments.I am most humbled.
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lcrookston

forerunneruk

Ultra-Indigo

rimar2000

live4ktm

The Awesome Inventor

borogoves

adker27

This is awesome. Using drywall tape was a very smart move, as wellas the move to wire ties. I just got back from Belize, and think this is soinspiring, I wish I had read it before I left.

I also really like your hull form. I am a naval architect and love to buildthings, someday, one of those things needs to be a watercraft.

I really like this. Particularly the testing different methods, and learningfrom mistakes.

I also like your shift from imperial to metric, and your positive review ofit. Generally though metric uses mm as standard not cm (divide by 10).

I like your lessons learned, good engineering practice.

this is a fantastic ibble, like you just lived a diy adventure dream.

Great work, congratulations.

Awesome ! This was a fun read. Thank you.

Great plans! Hoping to build a small rowboat that is kind of like this butwith a small hit n miss engine to power a propeller. One again, GREATwork!

I love the idea of making something while traveling--definitely a goodway to travel purposefully. You meet more interesting people whenyou have a goal that isn't just eating and taking pictures.

Awesome project, thanks for sharing. It totally makes me want to pullthe trigger and build one, (something I've wanted to do for years).
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Dr. Joe(author) adker27

dr_peru

Dr. Joe(author) dr_peru

I just have a couple of questions. 1 Roughly how much does it weigh?2 Any chance you could add a downloadable file with your plans?

Thanks, and again awesome job.

Total weight with the hatch cover is 56 pounds. You would

have to talk to Matt at Jem Watercraft to use the plans as hedrafted them for me. He has since put up some new canoe /kayak plans that look great.

http://www.jemwatercraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=LakeCruiser15-32

Very nice! I like how you improved the design over the process.

How much money does such a boat costs (rough estimate is enough)

Thank you for looking at my post. This cost about $200. Themost expensive component is the epoxy resin. It takes about agallon. You could reduce the cost using polyester resin but itwould not be as strong.

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Two Canoes and a Crazy Idea