TVR Griffith and Chimaera Servicing · TVR Griffith and Chimaera Servicing From the publishers of the RV8 Resource See An introduction November 2010

TVR Griffith andChimaera Servicing

From the publishers of the RV8 Resource

See www.RV8R.co.uk

An introduction

November 2010

Servicing your TVR Griffith and Chimaera

www.RV8R.co.uk This publication is copyright of Writewheel - all rights reserved

Subject section Page

Front page 1Contents 2Safety 3Schedule 4TVR schedule 5General tasks schedule 6Under bonnet schedule 7Under car schedule 8Under car 2 schedule 9General tasks 10Under bonnet Under bonnet 11Spark plugs 1 Under bonnet 12Spark plugs 2 Under bonnet 13Exhaust manifold Under bonnet 14Dist cap high ten Under bonnet 15Rocker cover bolts Breathers Under bonnet 16Drive belt Under bonnet 17Brake clutch fluid levels Under bonnet 18Coolant level Under bonnet 19Hi press pipes PAS Under bonnet 20Stepper Under bonnet 21Final tasks Under bonnet 22Oil change 1 Oil change 23Oil change 2 Oil change 24Raising car Under car 25Removing exhaust 1 Under car 26Removing exhaust 2 Under car 27Gearbox check refill Under car 28Diff oil check/refill Under car 29Propshaft UJ Under car 30Clutch fluid change Under car 31Handbrake Under car 32100 amp fuse Fuel filter Under car 33Under body checks Under car 34Air filter Under car 35Brakes - pad inspection Under car 36Replace brake fluid Under car 37Specialist tasks Specialist 38Experience 39Back page 40

ContentsThere is no charge for this elec-tronic version of Servicing yourTVR Griffith and Chimaera. How-ever a contribution would begratefully accepted to help payfor its production, distributionand publication as well as thepublishing costs of the websiteand associated bandwidth. Youcan pay what you feel the book isworth. If you think it is worthnothing, then so be it. If youthink £5 then good. Please payvia PayPal to:

[email protected]

Or by cheque, payable to RV8R,to:

Guide, Pentheos, Founthill Road,Saltdean, Brighton BN2 8AJ

This book is copyright of Write-wheel. It may not be copied ordistributed except as detailedbelow.

You may send this booklet in pdfform to whomever you wish aslong as you do not alter, changeor add anything to it nor makeany charge for it.

You must not claim authorshipnor any rights to the booklet orits contents. You cannot transferany rights other than those de-tailed here.

If you could send any comments,criticisms or suggestions for im-provement to me [email protected] I would bepathetically grateful.

Page 2



This is not a servicing guide for home mechanics to use. It is merely and solely anexplanation of what a service on these cars consists of. These are not instructions.

It is strongly advised that if you are not an experienced mechanic then you at leasthave an experienced mechanic to help and advise you.

This booklet should be read in conjunction with the RV8 Resource, www.RV8R.co.uk,especially as regards safety.

Any advice, criticism or suggestion for improving this booklet or RV8R.co.uk will begratefully received. Email: [email protected]

Safety

Working on a car can be dangerous andit is only sensible to take precautions.

However, minor injuries are probableand it is all but impossible to eliminatethe risk of a bloody hand, a torn nail or,my most recent injury, a bruised finger.The potential dangers can be arrangedinto types:

There are the strains, such as back ache,brought on by some unusual contortion.You can hurt your back by twisting toget at some awkward nut.

Then there is the little accident. A span-ner can slip on a rounded nut. Or youmight slip.

The potential for injury increases whenyou go under a car. I always ensure thatthe car is supported on axle stands andthere is a secondary support should theaxles stands collapse. Do not go underanything that might fall, including some-thing in a colleague’s hand. I never workunder a car in the street.

Servicing your own car can be danger-ous in other ways. Chemicals such asoils, are extremely complex and cancause allergic reaction. I always wearplastic gloves but have still managed togenerate an allergic reaction to petrol.

Once used, engine oil for instance, canbecome very toxic.

Engines get hot. The only way to worksafely on an engine that it is hot is toallow it to cool.

I dress in dedicated clothing: a fulllength overall with no metal fixings thatcould scratch the paintwork. I have pro-tective goggles to hand and also have abobble hat.

Cars can also be dangerous if the servic-ing is carried out improperly, such aswhen bleeding the brakes or working onthe steering. I always check everythingI’ve done even, perhaps especially,when I am sure I’ve done it right.

But the two biggest dangers, I think, areoverconfidence and tiredness. Alwaysensure you have plenty of time to per-form a particular task as they often takelonger than anticipated, and rememberthat even the best, most experiencedmechanics make mistakes.

This booklet should be read in conjunc-tion with the supporting website:

www.rv8R.co.uk

Any queries and suggestions to:

[email protected]

Please read

Page 3



GENERAL

Check seat belts

Check all electrical components

Check handbrake

Check tyres and pressures

Check road wheels

Check wipers

Check/lubricate hinges, doors, boot andbonnets locks and catches

Check cooling fans

UNDER BONNET

Check exhaust manifold bolts

Check rocker cover

Check distributor and high tension leads

Check drive belts

Check throttles and linkage

Check throttle stop

Check windscreen fluid level

Check PAS reservoir level

Check clutch fluid level

Check brake fluid level

Check clutch master cylinder

Check under bonnet grommets

Check engine breather hoses

Change spark plugs

Clean stepper motor

Check radiator and pipes

Change cooling fluid

WHEELS AND BRAKES

Remove road wheels and check

Check brake pads, discs, callipers, flexi-ble hoses

Check suspension fixings

Check steering joints, rack gaiters, balljoints, wishbone bushes

Check PAS pipes and unions

Change brake fluid

OIL AND FILTER

Change engine oil and filter

UNDER THE CAR

Change fuel filter

Change gearbox oil

Change diff oil

Change clutch fluid

Change coolant

Change air filter

Check underbody

SPECIALIST TASKS

Check engine timing

Check headlight alignment

Check tracking and camber

The Schedule

This booklet arranges the tasks different-ly from the TVR schedule. Here they aregrouped for convenience.

Page 4



6 mths -6000 miles

12 mths -12000 miles

Carry out road testCheck seat beltsCheck all electric componentsRemove road wheels, apply anti-seize compound to hubs and wheel studsCheck handbrakeInspect brake pads , callipers, discs, and flexible hosesChange brake fluidCheck fuel, clutch, brake pipes and unionsRemove exhaust, lubricate prop and check boltsCheck diff mounting boltsChange fuel filterChange gearbox oilChange engine oil and filterCheck exhaust systemCheck/top up gearbox oilCheck/top up diff oilChange diff oilCheck condition of steering joints, rack gaiters, ball joints and wishbone bushesCheck for fluid leaks from hydraulic pipes and unions (PAS only)Check tyresCheck road wheelsCheck suspension fixings for securityCheck underside for faults, abnormalitiesCheck exhaust manifold boltsCheck rocker coverChange spark plugsCheck distributor and high tension leads for deteriorationCheck drive beltsCheck air filter elementChange air filter elementCheck engine and gearbox mounting rubbersCheck throttles and linkage and lubricateCheck/adjust throttle stopCheck/top up PAS fluidCheck/top up clutch fluidChange clutch fluidCheck/top up brake fluidChange brake fluidCheck/top up windscreen fluidCheck wiper conditionCheck clutch master cylinder and underbonnet grommetsCheck engine breather/hoses for security and conditionChange coolant (times no specified)Check/adjust engine timingCheck cooling system for leaks, hoses for securityCheck cooling fansCheck tyre pressuresCheck headlight alignmentCheck/adjust tracking and camberCheck/adjust/lubricate hinges, doors, boot and bonnet locks and catchesRoad test.

Page 5



Date Task Comments

Check handbrake

Check tyres & pres-suresCheck road wheels

Check wipers

Check cooling fans

Check electrical com-ponentsCheck handbrake

Check tyre pressures

Check road wheels

Check wipers

Check/lubricate hing-es, locks & catchesCheck cooling fans

General tasks

Page 6

Print off these next four pages for eachservicing period.

Keep a record of everything you do andwhen. Use the comments section torecord anything you will need to knowfor the next service. Remember that youwill forget things.

Further, if you make a mention that thepads will need changing then the time tobuy a new set is before you go underthe car.



Date Task Comments

Check spark plugs

Change spark plugs

Check manifold bolts

Check rocker coverboltsCheck distributor &high tension leadsCheck drive belts

Check PAS fluid level

Check clutch fluidlevelCheck brake fluidlevelClean engine breath-er hosesClean stepper motor

Check radiotr & pipes

Check grommets &pipesCheck throttle & link-age

Under bonnet

Page 7



Date Task Comments

Change fuel filter

Check gearbox oil

Change gearbox oil

Check differential oil

Change differential oil

Change clutch fluid

Change air filter

Change coolant

Check underbody

Under car 1

Page 8



Date Task Comments

Remove roadwheels/checkCheck brake pads,discs, hoses, callipersCheck suspensionfixingsCheck steering joints,gaiters, ball joints,wishbonesCheck PAS pipes andunionsChange brake fluid

Date Task Comments

Engine timing

Headlight alignment

Tracking/camber

Change fuel filter

Under car 2

Specialist tasks

Page 9



General checks

TASKS

Check seat belts

Check all electrical components

Check handbrake

Check tyres and pressures

Check road wheels

Check wipers

Check/lubricate hinges, doors, boot andbonnets locks and catches

Time required: 1 hour

Items required: Grease, spray on type.Washing up liquid.

Tools required: Tyre pressure gauge

Frequency: At least every three months.Checking tyres, once a week.

I walk around the car checking for any-thing unusual, such as a door that isdifficult to shut, a tear in the rear toppanel, or a new oil stain where I parkthe car.

I check the condition of the tyres andthe tyre pressures with a proper gauge.This is a regular task, at least everyweek. Any drop in pressure over andabove a pound or two is investigatedand a note made of it. If there is anyunusual/uneven wear I have the geome-try checked. I check the wheels for dam-age.

I check the seatbelts for fraying or slowor poor retraction and extension.

I switch the wipers on and check foroperation. I activate the washers andcheck that they clear the screen effec-tively then I check the blades for anydamage. I clean the wiper blades with acloth soaked in diluted detergent ormethylated (mentholated for the USA)spirits.

The handbrake should come up at anangle that is convenient. If it needs ad-justing I make a note on the serviceform.

I ensure all electrical items work, includ-ing interior and instruments lights, in-struments, switches, exterior lights,including hazards, and all warning lights.

I take the car for a drive, often taking apassenger to check for anything oddsuch as vibration or a strange noise. Istop off for refreshments. I’m not silly.

I check the operation of the dials. Ibrake and see if the car pulls to one sideor any unusual noises. If so I check forcause at once.

I leave the engine to reach a sufficienttemperature for the fans to switch inand check that both are working. I lubri-cate all hinges and door locks wiping offany excess as it can collect dirt andtransfer to clothing.

When all the checks have been complet-ed, I tick the relevant boxes on theschedule and make a note of any con-cerns.

Page 10



Under bonnet checks

TASKS

Check/change spark plugs

Check exhaust manifold bolts

Check distributor and high tension leads

Check rocker cover

Check drive belts

Check throttles and linkage

Check throttle stop

Check windscreen fluid level

Check PAS reservoir level

Check clutch fluid level

Check brake fluid level

Check clutch master cylinder

Check under bonnet grommets

Check engine breather hoses

Clean stepper motor

Check radiator and pipes

Whilst the term underbonnet is usedhere checking the exhaust manifoldbolts requires that you go under the caras well.

For all these tasks I wear plastic glovesto protect my hands.

I also have with me a large, clean cloth,around hand towel size, to quickly mopup any spills. I also have a degreaserand, most importantly, some water.Brake fluid is corrosive and if it is spilledon paintwork it can ruin it and your day.If you do do the unthinkable then aquick wash over with water and a wipewith the towel is often not sufficient andthree goes are required.

It can be helpful if you read the RV8Resource before going through any ofthese procedures if you are not certainof what you have to do.

Checking oil levelI check the oil level weekly and afterand before a long run. Any sudden orunexplained increase in oil consumptionshould be investigated immediately.There is always a reason and if youleave it to get worse it costs more.

Reasons for sudden high oil consump-tion are given in the RV8 Resource butin most cases to find a leak is goodnews.

Bonnet supportThe bonnet stay is not meant to be se-cure when working on the car. There arevarious options, such as an additionalone or fixing the stay so that it cannotbe pulled or knocked free. However, Ialways tie it to the rafters in my garage.

Page 11

Under bonnet 1



Spark plugs 1

Removing spark plugs

It is convenient to also complete thechecking of the exhaust manifold boltsat the same time. See Page 14.

Time required: 1 hour

Items required: Eight park plugs

Tools required: Plug spanner or socket,plug gapping tool, wire brush, an oldplug lead or similar, small artist’s paintbrush, bicycle pump or air line. ‘Copperslip’ (optional). Torque wrench. Feelergauge.

Frequency: Checking items, every 6months or 6000 miles (whichever thesooner). Change plugs annually or every12,000 miles.

Mark the plug leads so you know whichplug they refer to. I number the offsideplugs from 1-4 starting at the front, and5-8 on the nearside from the front. Re-move the plug leads and caps. Do notbend the plug leads.

If using a socket set, because the plugsare difficult to get to you will need auniversal joint or a ‘wobbler’.

Clean around each plug in turn with abrush and puff of air. You only need to‘break’ the seal of the plug when usingthe socket set. After a whole turn youshould be able to rotate the plug byhand.

Remove the plug and check the tipagainst the pictures shown in the RV8Resource. Clean with wire brush andcheck gap if reusing.

Page 12

Under bonnet 2

It is tight down there. There is an anglebeyond which the UJ will not go withoutrisk of damage to the plug. Make sureyou don’t find it.

This kind of spe-cialist plug sock-et comes withmost socket sets.The rubber gripsthe plug gentlyand allows youto pull it out.

Make anote of

which leadgoes to

which plug.

These capskeep the rub-ber high ten-sion leadsaway fromthe exhaustmanifold.



Spark plugs 2

If replacing the plugs, check gap of thenew plug.

New or old, coat the thread in a littlecopper slip. Then using an old plug lead,see picture, right, carefully replace/fitthe cleaned/new plug. You must ensurethat you do not cross the thread. Anystrong resistance is a real bad sign.

Once finger tight I use a socket to tight-en a little more then use a torquewrench.

Most of the plugs are recessed and it isall but impossible to fit a torque wrench.What I do is to use one where possibleand ‘remember’ the degree of forceneeded and use that on the remainingones.

Once all the plugs are replaced I replacethe caps and connect the high tensionwires. Also check their seating on thedistributor cap.

If you did not fit the plugs, check to en-sure that they are all of the right tem-perature or same. In other words thatthey all conform to the ones advised inyour handbook. If there is any variationthis can denote a problem. See RV8 Re-source.

Check that the leads are seated about aweek later before you start the engine.Plug leads carry a hefty wack of electrici-ty and also retain heat.

The way of checking the gap. If youhave to make a major change to thegap of a new plug then check you havethe right feeler. It should just start togrip but only just.

A trick my father, a Rolls Royce trainedchauffeur, was taught in order not tostrip the thread. Attach an old plug leadonto the top of the plug. Place the plugin the hole and turn gently anticlockwiseuntil the plug feels lined up. The turnclockwise. If the plug lead slips thenstart again. Do not, not ever, and don’teven think about, forcing a plug to turn.

Under bonnet 3

Page 13



Exhaust manifold bolts

Time: 30 mins, 20 if done at same timeas plugs

Tools: 17mm open ended spanner,17mm sockets, 17mm ring

Frequency: annual, 12,000 miles

In theory this is a straightforward task.In practice . . .

Although in reality an under car task asthe exhaust has to be dropped, it is bestto do this when changing the plugs asthe leads have to be removed in mostcases.

Each individual pipe is held onto theengine head using a 17mm bolt top andbottom. Whilst some of the lower boltsare accessible from above, notably thefront ones, the rest are best accessedfrom below. Further, the lower ones onthe nearside cannot be accessed withoutdropping the exhaust.

It can be useful to buy specialist ‘bendy’spanners. Obviously the spanner doesnot bend. The shaft is bent at an angle.Another trick is to grind down an open-ended spanner. It should be remem-bered that an open-ended spannertouches the bolt at just two places soone tooth can be ground away with noloss of efficiency.

There are 16 bolts in all and, as patiencecan be strained, start at the most diffi-cult, underside towards the rear, andleave the easier ones to last.

For symptoms of manifold gasket leakand ways of replacing the gaskets, seethe Resource.

It looks cramped down there. That’sbecause it is. The top four bolts andthe front two lower ones can be got atwith people with normal sized hands.The others to required going under.

The fronttwo near-side mani-fold bolts. Ileave theseuntil last asa sort ofreward.

Under bonnet 4

Page 14



Distributor cap/hightension leads

Time required: Ten minutes

Items required: Distributor cap and ro-tor arm every 12,000 miles

Tools required: Mild degreaser or methyl-ated spirits

Frequency: Check every time plugs areremoved. Replace cap and rotor armevery 12,000 miles.

Do not touch the high tension leadswhen the engine is running. They carryconsiderable voltage.

Make a record of which plugs the leadsgo to. I use CD markers and put a figureand the number of dots on each end ofthe lead. It only needs to be useful onceto make the effort worthwhile.

The distributor cap is held by two springclips that can be released with the aid ofa large flat-bladed screwdriver.

The cap is ‘keyed’ so it can only go onone way.

The underside must be checked, espe-cially the nine contacts. If there is anywear or build-up of deposits then it iseasiest and best to change the cap.

Any dirt or deposits on the cap can leadto shorting. Clean with degreaser ordetergent. The leads should be wipedwith a degreaser or methylated spirits.

Clean the rotor arm and check for dam-age. Replace after 12,000 miles. It toois keyed.

Check the fixing of and clean the coil.

The underside of the distributor cap.These are cheap enough so regular re-placement is a sensible option

The rotor arm This was replaced as theend of the contact was a little worn. Thishad probably been in the distributor forsome time. The serial number reads:

54401050 S

I do not know its relevance.

I bought the standard Land Rover re-placement and it had the same numberon it.

Page 15

Under bonnet 5



Rocker cover and bolts

Time required: Five minutes

Tools required: Suitable AF/alum (hex)key/star socket (3/8 drive preferred) orPhillips (crosshead) screwdriver.

Frequency: Annually.

The rocker covers are robust cast alloyunits and provide a good base for thegasket. Each is held by four bolts.

Although it is not on the servicing sched-ule, it is advisable to check that thereare no leaks from the cover. If so theremedy is to replace the gasket. See theRV8 Resource for the method.

The bolts should be checked for tight-ness. These are 12-point bolts originally.These distribute the torque better thansix-sided bolts. If these are fitted youwill need a 12-point 10mm socket. Seepicture.

However these might well have beenreplace by alum-key bolts, or Phillipshead. It would appear that the originalbolts can only be sourced from LandRover dealers.

The fourbolts onoffsiderockercover

A 12-point, 3/8”drive, long reachsocket.

Breathers

Time required: 20 minutes

Items required: Degreaser

Tools required: Screwdriver suitable forthe pipe clamp

Frequency: Six months, 6000 miles

On the end of each rocker cover, frontof the offside and rear of the nearside,is a breather. These should be cleaned. Iuse propriety water soluable degreaseralthough white spirit is said to do thejob as well.

Offside: The pipe clamp needs to beunscrewed and then the breather can beunscrewed. Soak in degreaser, wash inwater and allow to dry. Replace.

Nearside: the breather can be pulled off,then soaked in degreaser, then washedand dried before replacing.

Offside breather,pipe removed.Grab tightly andunscrew.

Nearside rocker cover removedfrom vehicle, breather arrowed.

Under bonnet 6

Page 16



Drive belt tension

Time required: Five minutes to check, anextra ten to adjust

Items required: None

Tools required: 13mm ring and openended spanners for pre-serpentine en-gines if adjustment is required

Frequency: Six months, 6000 miles

Drive belts wear out. At the first sign offraying or cracking they should be re-placed. Some solvents can affect themso wipe off any contaminants. So theyshould be examined carefully.

The tension is checked on the longestrun of the belt. 5mm is the given degreeof slack for mine but check with yourhandbook. This is the absolute minimum.If a belt is too tight it can damage thebearings on the generator and waterpump.

Pre-serpentine RV8 engines have manu-al adjustment. The pivot bolts have tobe slackened slightly, then the adjustingpinch bolt undone. If replacing the beltthe generator is pushed down until thebelt is easily removed. Then the newbelt is put on. Keep the old belt in theevent of a failure of the new. As it wouldhave stretched to a limited amount itwill be easier to put on.

Check the tension of the belt after acouple of hundred miles if any adjust-ment has been made or you put on anew one.

A slipping belt often screeches, especial-ly if the vehicle has power steering andyou have the car of full lock.

Do not forcethe belt whenmeasuring theslack. Slack isthe word.

The pivot bolts, picture above, and thepinch bolt, below.

Under bonnet 7

Page 17



Brake, clutch fluid level

Time: 45 minutes

Items required: Brake/clutch fluid to Dot4 specification or above, silicon sealant,clothes and water

Tools: medium Phillips (cross head)screwdriver

Frequency: Brake fluid level, everymonth. Clutch every six months/6000

Brake/clutch fluid (identical) is corrosive.It is advisable to keep non-fluffy clothesto hand and plenty of water. If a spill, oreven a drip, occurs, wash with copiousamounts of water and they thoroughlydry.

The clutch and brake master cylinders(m/c) are located on the offside wing.The brake m/c is on top of the wing andthe clutch m/s is under a cover.

Check the level in the brake m/c by un-screwing the cap and peering into thereservoir. The top of the fluid should bejust below the top of the reservoir.Check for a significant drop in the level.If there is one then the cause must besourced.

Remove the clutch m/c cover. Removeas much of the silicon sealant as youcan with a blunt knife. Any residue canbe dissolved in white spirit. Check leveland if it has dropped. Replace cap. Re-place silicon and resecure. Wipe awayany excess.

Once the seal is broken on clutch fluid Ialways discard it if I am not going to useit within a week or two.

Above. The three screws holding on theclutch cover are arrowed in yellow. Themaster cylinder is above with the seal-ant arrowed in red. If either leaks watercan find its way into the driver’s footwell.

The clutch fluidreservoir is angledso that the fluid isnot level. Be care-ful when toppingup to ensure thatyou do not overfill.I wrap a piece ofcloth around thebottom of the m/c.

Page 18

Under bonnet 8



Coolant level

Time: two minutes

Items required: water/antifreeze mixedin the right proportions

Tools required: none

Frequency: monthly

The correct term for the coolant is cool-ant rather than water as it is a 50:50mix of antifreeze and water. As peopleare 60% water, it seems reasonable.

I never open any part of the coolingsystem unless the engine is cold. Theold saying is: if you need to take the capoff the cooling system when it is hot,then wait until it is cold. The coolant inunder pressure so will be at more than100 degrees C.

The level of coolant should be 1” belowthe top of the expansion tank. It is ar-rowed in the top picture to the right forpre-serpentine engines. In the lowerimage it is circled in a serpentine en-gined. The colour of the cap may or maynot be blue in the case of your engine. Itop up with pre-mixed water/antifreeze.

If the coolant level has dropped morethan normal then I check for leaks in thesystem.

The picture above shows a pre-serpen-tine engine. The water pump is indicatedwith the read arrow. The expansion tankhas a yellow arrow.

The picture below is of a serpentine en-gine. The expansion tank is circled atthe bottom right of the picture.

If your are unaware which car you haveor are not sure which engine you have,please see www.rv8r.co.uk.

Page 19

Under bonnet 9



High pressure fuel pipes

Time: 10 minutes

Items required: cloths

Tools: none

Frequency: every service

Checking the fuel pipes for deteriorationis not mentioned in the schedule but isessential. Look for cracks, wear andleaks. A small mirror can be useful.Wipe any oil off with a mild detergent,such as very dilute washing up liquid.Some degreasers or other chemicals canaffect the strength of the material.When people say ‘you can’t be too safe’they are talking of looking after andchecking high pressure fuel hoses.

The advice I was given was to changethem every three to four years regard-less of any deterioration.

The yellow arrow shows one of the fuelpipes on my car. On yours it might bedifferent. The way to check is the pipeslead to the fuel rails, arrowed in red.There will be one each side of the ple-num.

Power assisted steering

Time: 10 minutes

Items required: PAS fluid

Tools: none


This is not just a case of checking thelevel of the fluid but the connectingpipes as well.

The PAS fluid reservoir is normally at-tached to the offside of the plenumchamber. The fluid level should not no-ticeably drop between services. Checkthe pipework and pump for leaks.

Ensure youget no dirtin thereservoir,arrowed.

Check all pipes and the pump, ar-rowed, for leaks.

Page 20

Underbonnet 10



Stepper motor

Time: 20 minutes

Items required: old toothbrush, methyl-ated spirits, plumbers tape (optional)

Tools: 30mm open-ended spanner (ad-justable is adequate)

Frequency: two yearly, 12,000 miles

The stepper motor, or idle control valve,is a mechanical device which opens andcloses controlling air feed into the ple-num. If it becomes contaminated thenthe engine idle can fluctuate. Cleaning isnot part of the service but it is acceptedthat it should be cleaned on occasion.

If there is a problem with engine idlethen cleaning the stepper can, at worst,eliminate it as a cause.

The stepper is a delicate and expensiveitem. So treat with care. It is located atthe rear offside of the plenum.

The electric contact has to be disconnect-ed first by lifting the clip.

‘Break’ the seal and unscrew by hand.Clean the thread and then remove anyburnt deposits on the tapered end andthe spring.

Carefully clean the thread and contactarea in the plenum. I soak in methylat-ed spirit then use a tootbrush.

Some advise using plumber’s (PTFE)tape around the thread.

Replace is a reverse of removal but careneeds to be exercised with leverage ofthe spanner. It just needs to be nipped.

Disconnect the electrical lead beforeunbolting the stepper, arrowed.

The stepper removed and cleaned. Thedamage to the flats suggests the wrongsized spanner was used in the past. Thisis inexcusable and can damage the veryexpensive stepper.

Mystical power are attributed to thesteeper which will be released by aquick wash. This is not always the case.But it is worth the time to clean.

Page 21

Underbonnet 11



Final tasksTime: 15 minutes

Items required: silicon sealant, cloths,degreaser

Tools: none


This is not mentioned on the TVR serviceschedule but it is a bit more importantthan vital.

Whenever you have been working any-where on a car check around for anytools or parts you have left behind. Iknow the sound a 1 5/16” socket makeswhen destroying a radiator as I didn’tcheck the pulley after doing the valveson a car.

Check also for any damage, any leadsthat seem to have no home to go to,sudden leaks, bits missing.

I check my toolbox as well as a missingspanner is often easily noticed.

Finally do a complete underbody check.This will include the various pipes andgrommets.

A major cause of water leaks into thecar, and the soggy footwells, is not nec-essarily a poorly fitting hood. Water willfind its way past holes where grommetsused to be or where the wires haveopened up the hole.

A little bit of silicon works wonders al-though it is a temporary fix, albeit onethat has lasted for three years on myChimaera.

Next check all the runs of pipes to en-sure they are not fouling anything thatmight damage them.

A clean engine compartment might seemto be the preserve of those who haven’tanything better to do but keeping it oilfree can be helpful.

If you wipe everything over with a de-greaser, removing stains and drips, anyleak becomes easy to see. All too easyin fact.

There is no need to chrome everythingbut water leaks can ‘travel’. In otherwords the water drips from a locationfar from the actual source of the leak. Ifthe under bonnet area is clean and oilfree it is much easier to trace.

Finally, and importantly: early correctionof a fault often pays dividends in thesense that repairs cost less than if theywere left.

A water leak means constant replenish-ing of the coolant, and that is anti-freeze. Sometime later, when the engineboils over and your heads warp, youmight regret not buying that bit of hosewhen you found the one on your car hadperished.

Underbonnet 12

Page 22



Oil change 1

Oil change 1

Time required: two hours

Items required: 6 litres oil, oil filter,sump plug washer, container to takewaste oil, protective gloves and goggles,lots of old cloths.

Tools required: 29mm spanner (canvary), oil filter wrench, torque wrench,13mm socket, extension bar

Frequency: every year/12000 miles

This most basic of servicing tasks can bedone very cheaply at a garage but if youdo it yourself you pay a reasonable pricefor the oil, you know the quality and youknow the filter hasn’t just been given awipe over with a cloth.

First the engine needs to be warm.Don’t go silly and wait until the fanscome on, you just want the oil to flowreadily.

Put on protective gloves and goggles.

Raise the car. If you are new to servic-ing, please Page 25.

Place a large cloth under the car thenplace an oil container for the waste oilunder the sump. Remember that for thefirst few seconds the oil will come outunder pressure.

Undo the 27mm nut (or aftermarketplug) a complete turn taking great carenot to touch the exhaust pipe.

Gently press the plug into the holewhilst undoing it. This can be done one-handed giving less chance of touchingthe exhaust. The oil will drip out.

When it is fully undone, allow the sumpplug to drop into the oil container andcheck that the oil is also going into it.The flow soon subsides. .

Generalview un-der the

car show-ing sump

with sumpplug (see

below)

The closeness of the exhaust is apparentin this picture, which also shows thesump plug. So take care.

Looking towardsthe front of thecar from underthe driver’s door.The oil filter isarrowed.

Page 23



Oil change 2

Oil change 2Leave the oil to drain and open the oilfilter box. Ensure the rubber ring seal inin place on filter. Rub a little oil over theseal.

Using a proprietary oil seal wrench, myfavourite is shown in RV8 Resource, un-screw the oil filter, remembering it is fullof oil. Place in secure place as it is easyto knock over.

Immediately replace with the clean filter,screwing it in all the way and then final-ly hand-tightening it. Do not use thefilter wrench to tighten it.

Allow oil to strop dripping from sump.Fish out sump plug, remove washer,replace with new one.

Refit sump plug. Carefully tighten tocorrect torque. Too much will strip thethread.

Refill with oil up to high level mark ondipstick.

Check both engine mounting rubbers forany deterioration.

Run engine, ensuring that the oil pres-sure gauge registers normal pressure. Ifit doesn’t after a second or two, switchengine off. Then try again. If it stilldoesn’t register then you need to seethe RV8 Resource.

Stop engine. Check oil level and top up.Then do the same again.

I always check the sump bolts when Ichange the oil.

Dispose of oil responsibly. Check sumpplug and oil filter are not leaking after afew miles and then after a week or so.

Tools are kept in the tray until required.This makes it easy to check that all havebeen returned. The oil container, an oldwater bottle, is easy to poor with thecap. There are proprietary ones whichare excellent.

The oil filler cap. It may or may not beorange. But it will be on the rocker cov-er. Wrap a cloth around the filler as it isall too easy to spill oil.

Page 24

The enginemounting rub-ber is directlythe exhaustmountingbracket on then/s. There’sanother mount-ing on the oth-er side.



Raising the carFor many reasons RV8 resource will notgive advice. All this is is a description ofthe servicing procedures. However, ifRV8R was to give advice it would be onthe safety aspect of raising the car.

But, as I say, all I can do is tell you howI do it. You can follow my method if youwish but you can do what you want.Seek advice of those who know whatthey are doing.

I always ensure that when raised the caris not dependant on one system. WhilstI always settle the car on four axlesstands I also ensure that if any or in-deed all of them collapse the car will notfall on me. The shock I suppose is diffi-cult to eradicate.

The car weighs a bit over 1000 kg. Eachof the four jacks is at least 2 tonne.

I ensure that none of the jacks are in aposition where I am likely to kick orknock them. That means that I can’thave them always on the jacking points.I actually prefer them to be under themain chassis rails. But if they are in theway then I stick the stands elsewhere.

I place blocks of wood under the wheels,in fact allowing the wheels to take alittle of the weight, just enough to stopthem turning.

Once the car is up on jacks I give thecar a firm push in all four horizontal di-rections. The time to find out it is notsecure is not when you are under it andsome idiot walks into it.

Before raising the car I undo the wheelnuts one turn even if I don’t think I’mgoing to take the wheels off. You neverknow.

The two 3 tonne jacks are, to say theleast, ample to support one end of thecar. On top of that, or under I suppose,are the blocks of wood which take a littleof the weight of the tyres. The rearwheels are on ramps with 2 tonne jackson the main chassis rails.

If it is required for the wheels to beturned or the propshaft rotated thenalthough only one rear wheel needs tobe raised even if a limited slip differen-tial is fitted if it is turned by hand, thewhole rear of car should be raised sothat it is level.

When jacking up the car ensurethat any part of you that youhave no wish to live without isnot under it.

Page 25

Under car 1



Removing exhaust 1Time: a bit over an hour the first time

Items: tray for nuts, bolts, etc, cloths,axle stand or jack (trolley most conven-ient)

Tools: 10, 13 and 17mmspanners/sockets


Removing the exhaust system is not aservice item in itself but merely prepara-tory. Once you get the hang of it it be-comes surprisingly easy.

Undo the two 10mm bolts holding therear support bracket: top picture right.Replace the bracket with the nuts fingertight.

Move the rear anti roll bar to one side.Undo one of the 13mm nuts and rubbersholding the drop link, arrowed in yellowmiddle right. Then remove both Uclamps, arrowed in red, in the middlepicture and move the roll bar to one side.Support it on a solid object. You canalso undo the other drop link and re-move it entirely.

Check all roll bar rubbers, drop links andbar for wear and damage.

Support the large tray under the silenc-ers in the middle of the exhaust run.This can be via a jack or an axle stand.See lower picture, right. Remove alleight 17mm bolts (see picture on nextpage) and allow the exhaust to be sup-ported on the jack/stand in as near origi-nal position as possible.

Rear support bracket as seen from rearof car.

It can be useful to remove roll bar everyother service in order to check it withconvenience.

Whilst anhydraulicjackmightseem easi-er, it canget in theway.

Under car 2

Page 26



Removing exhaust 2

Under car 3

Rememberthe way therubberswere fixedRemove the U clamp up at the front of

the exhaust by the side of the sump.The two 13mm nuts often benefit frombeing coated in plus Gas. Picture right,middle.

There is a 13mm that holds the exhaustto the engine, see third picture. It istedious removing the nut. A ratchetspanner can be useful.

Lowering the exhaust is a two personjob. Pull back until it is free from thedownpipe. It is surprisingly heavy.

Do not stand the exhaust up on end inthe garage or where it can fall onsomeone/thing without securing it.Check it for damage and holes.

Replacement is the reverse of removal.However, it can be a bit of a pain thefirst time. The whole procedure is cov-ered, in some depth, in the RV8 Re-source and I would suggest readingthrough it. In essence all you need is anassistant, a mirror and a bit of patience.I use a bit of grease over the end of thedownpipe to ease the micro-adjust-ments you have to try.

Use a new 75mm U-clamp. The heat ofthe exhaust speeds up corrosion and thebolts are always a pain. Ensure theyface a direction convenient to you whenyou replace it.

The two bolts can be difficult to remove.Plus Gas or any penetrating oil (Note:WD40 is not primarily a penetrating oil)can be handy. Don’t worry about damag-ing it as you should replace with a newone each time.

The bracket has an elongated hole. Itdoes not feel long enough once youstart trying to refit it.

Page 27



Gearbox oil check/refill

Under car 4

Time: 10 minutes to check, 20 minutesto change

Items: gearbox oil, container for old oil,cloths

Tools: spanner for drain plug and levelplug. These vary from car to car.

Frequency: check every 6 months/6000miles. Replace every 12 months/12,000miles.

Checking: The level filler plug is arrowedin yellow, top picture,

Replacing: The drain plug is arrowed inred, right.

The gearbox on RV8-engined TVRs use‘level plugs’ to determine the correctamount of lubricant is present. The carmust be level, both from front to backand side to side, for a level plug to beeffective.

All you need to do to check the level isto put oil in until a little comes out.

Before undoing a level plug I alwaysclean around it, including above. Theway of adding lubricant is via a tubefrom the oil container and it is almostimpossible not to touch the side of thegearbox or diff as you find the slot. Youdo not want to take dirt in with the oil.

The gearbox will take little oil unlessthere is a leak. When changing the oilundo both plugs, allow the oil to drainand then replace the drain plug.

Then it is just a case of pumping the oilinto the gearbox using the pipe thatmost gearbox oil containers come with.

Warming the oil container in hot watercan thin the oil sufficiently for it to benoticeable.

The LT77 gearbox as fitted to earlyGriffs and Chims. The level plug is ar-rowed in yellow and the drain plug inred

The stronger T5 gearbox fitted to latercars.

Two gearboxes are fitted to Chimaerasand Griffiths. From the point of view ofservicing thee is no difference to theprocedure.

Page 28



Differential oil check/refillTime: 10 minutes to check, 20 minutesto change

Items: oil, container for old oil, cloths

Tools: spanner for drain plug and levelplug. These vary from car to car.

Frequency: check every 6 months/6000miles. Replace every 12 months/12,000miles.

Very much the same procedure as forchanging and checking the gearbox oil.The differential on RV8-engined TVRsuses ‘level plugs’ to determine the cor-rect amount of lubricant is present. Thecar must be level, both from front toback and side to side, for a level plug tobe effective.

All you need to do to check the level isto put oil in until a little comes out.

Before undoing a level plug I alwaysclean around it, including above. Theway of adding lubricant is via a tubefrom the oil container and it is almostimpossible not to touch the side of thegearbox or diff as you find the slot. Youdo not want to take dirt in with the oil.

The differential will take little oil unless ithas a leak. When changing the oil undoboth plugs, allow the oil to drain andthen replace the drain plug.

Then it is just a case of pumping the oilinto the differential using the pipe thatmost such oil containers come with.

Warming the oil container in hot watercan thin the oil sufficiently for it to benoticeable.

While you are waiting for the oil to drainout, check all differential mounting bolts.This is part of the service schedule.

The filler plug. It can be a real pain toget at. Careful of the cable tie. It canshred plastic gloves and skin as well.

The drain plug.

A ‘typical’ differential. Yours may welldiffer. Ensure you have the right oil forthe right differential. Your handbookwill show which you have.

Page 29

Under car 5



Propshaft UJ

Time: 15 mins

Items: grease gun, grease

Tools: 13mm open ended spanner and13mm ring spanner

Frequency: every time you drop theexhaust

The propshaft takes the drive from thegearbox to the differential. Four 13mmnuts and bolts secure each end. Theseshould be checked for tightness . Thisrequires rotating the propshaft. This isbest done when no one is under the car,by turning one wheel. Ensure that thehandbrake is off and the car is out ofgear before doing so.

The universal joint (UJ) is at the gearboxend.

It would seem that some cars have UJswhich are ‘sealed for life’ and thereforedo not require greasing. If you are suf-fering from this problem then do notdespair as pretty soon is will wear outand you can replace it with the correcttype.

For the rest of us a few strokes from agrease gun annually or every 12,000 isrequired. Nipple is shown arrowed, right,top.

Check for excessive wear by grabbinghold of the gearbox side of the UJ andthe proshaft and then trying to turn thelatter. No play should be present. Ifthere is a bit of play then make a note.

It can mean to a bit of clunking on takeup of drive and bit af vibration. It is oneof those things that can be left until aconvenient time if it is not too bad.

The propshaft can be out of balance andthis can give a slight, and very irritating,vibration. If you have already checkedall your wheels and tyres for truenessthen there are places which will balanceyour propshaft for you. Not cheaplythough.

It is easily removed. Just undo the fourbolts either end and it falls on you.

The rear diffbolts, right. It is

even morecramped than it

looks.

Page 30

Under car 6



Clutch fluid change

Time: half an hour

Items: brake fluid - Dot 4 or higher.Only use fluid from an unopened bottle

Tools: brake bleeding kit such as Eezi-bleed, foot pump/compressor, tyre pres-sure gauge, ring spanner for looseningbleed nipple, container for catching theold fluid. Cloths and a container of water.

Frequency: see text

You can bleed the clutch master andslave cylinders by having someone‘pump’ the clutch pedal. I suggest youdo not as, for one thing, you are underthe car and secondly it can damage theclutch master cylinder. Use a proprietarysystem such as Eezibleed and follow theinstructions on the kit.

The non-kit method is described on RV8Resource purely because I’ve beenasked to include it.

The location of the clutch master cylin-der is shown on page 31. The slave is bythe offside of the sump towards the rearof the engine, under the starter motor.

Frequency: It is a service requirementevery year/12,000 miles. I have beenadvised that every other year and evenevery three years is more than ample.You make the choice.

The clutch slave cylinder, bleed nipplearrowed. The black tubular object is thestarter motor. Clean around the nipplethoroughly before starting to bleed thesystem.

As both braking systems and clutch sys-tem uses Dot4 fluid, unless this hasbeen changed by you or a previous own-er, it can be economical to do the clutchand brakes on the same day or, perhaps,on successive days. This is because thefluid is hygroscopic (takes in water) andit is not advisable to use fluid from anunopened container as this could meanit has been exposed to the atmosphere

This is no problem over a few days, oreven a week, but take care.

Under car 7

Page 31



Handbrake adjustment

Time: 45 mins on my third attempt, 2hours the first time. When done at agarage it took 5 mins.

Items: small wire brush, some light oil,preferably ‘non-sticky’ bicycle spray lu-bricant

Tools: depends on type.

Frequency: see below

With the rear wheels taking no load, re-lease handbrake and ensure the car isout of gear. See if both wheels revolvefreely. Pull the handbrake up one clickat a time and see if the handbrakecomes on at the same click each side. Ifthey don’t it needs adjusting.

The only thing you can adjust on thehandbrake is the balance. It is more ofan art than a craft. Once the cable hasstretched then it needs replacing.

The adjusters are accessed either fromunderneath in early cars (LT77 g/box)by the top of the differential or from therear offside wheelarch on later, T5 cars.

It is easy enough to work out which waythe adjustment goes once under the car.

Clean the thread first of all then un-screw by hand.

In discussing this procedure with moreexperienced home mechanics than me, Iwas advised to have the garage perform-ing the MoT to adjust the handbrakebefore testing. Some don’t charge andall are ‘encouraged’ not to fail your caron the handbrake.

The adjusters on an early car, arrowed.They are situated just above the drive-shafts where they are bolted to the diff.

Adjusting the handbrake balance is prob-ably the most tedious task in the servic-ing schedule.

For replacing the cable, see the Re-source.

Page 32

Under car 8



Replace 100 amp fuse

Time: five minutes

Items: 100 amp fuse

Tools: depends on type

Frequency: annually

This is all but a TVR specialist item.Some cars, mine for instance, do nothave them and there are various types.There are 125 and 150 amp fuses aswell.

The one illustrated was fixed to the chas-sis main rail by the front offside wish-bone. Just open the casing, remove fuseand replace with new one.

The 100Afuse shownclosed, aboveand open.Yours may ormay not looklike this. How-ever it will

have a heavy duty cable going in andout of it.

Fuel filter

Time: 20 mins

Items: specialist petrol pipe clamps

Tools: depends on fixings

Frequency: see text

The fuel filter is shown below, arrowedin red. It is located just inboard of therear nearside lower wishbone. Undo thefixing holding the clamp and the filter isthen easy to get to.

Use propriety fuel clamps on the pipesand then unscrew the jubilee type clips.The arrow on the filter points to thefront of the car.

Petrol vapour is highly inflammable.Keep a fire extinguisher handy in thegarage.

How frequently you should change thefuel filter is a matter of opinion. Somesay three years, some different.

Above, yellow arrowfor filter, red forpump. Right, theclamp bolt. Yoursmay differ.

Under car 9

Page 33



Underbody checks

Time: 30 mins

Items: cloths, degreaser

Tools: none

Frequency: whenever you are under thecar.

These checks are vital. They show upproblems before they become expensive.Do not stint on them.

Check all wishbone and damper mount-ings by pulling on the items to check forwear and look for damage. Look forleaks in the dampers and that thesprings are not broken.

Check the steering UJs and the rubberboots on the steering rack and the driveshafts.

Picture above top: steering rack gaitor,there are TWO. Lower picture, steeringcolumn UJ: TWO

Pictures fromtop to bottom:1/ lower damp-er mount:FOUR

2/ upper damp-er mount:FOUR.

3/ driveshaftgaitor: FOUR

4/ wishbonemounts:SIXTEEN

5/ top andbottom balljoints: FOUR

Under car 10

Page 34



Air filter element

Time: an hour or 30 mins depending ongrill type

Items: new air filter element, thin oil orspecial air filter oil. Small brush. Thingrease/copper slip

Tools: screwdrivers, flat and cross

Frequency: annually, 12,000 miles

This task is included in under car aswhen the car is raised it brings the filterto a level where it is convenient to workon.

Remove grill. The air filter is the big,black thing. Unscrew the clamp and pullfilter away. It can be really reluctant tocooperate.

You can either:

1/ clean the filter, using a proprietarydegreaser, washing up liquid works al-most as well I’m told. Allow to dry. Coatin thin engine oil.

2/ replace with new filter.

Clean the area around the filter. Alsoremove debris that is blocking the radia-tor. Do not use a sharp instrument as itis easy to damage. Use a brush andcoax items out. Inspect for damage.

Coat metal tube in copper slip or, if youare really tight, a little thin grease. Thelatter works for me.

Air filter in situ. It can be a right pain tolever off.

The air inlet pipe after the filter hasbeen removed. Don’t be tempted toreplace filter without coating the bitthat is bare aluminium in the picturewith grease, or copper slip works betterI’m told. The degree of gunge insidegrill is typical. Brush the bits off thegrill. Do not be tempted to use a smallscrewdriver or similar as it is all tooeasy to damage.

Page 35

Under car 11



Brakes: pad inspection

Time: 30 minutes

Items: none

Tools: wheel brace


Pad inspection is kept separate frombleeding the brakes deliberately. I liketo concentrate on bleeding and have nodistractions. However this can be doneat the same time.

Loosen the wheel nuts one turn andthen raise the whole car or one end/sideor you can do individual corners.

Once you’ve raised the bit of car you’vedecided upon, use axle stand, and re-move the wheel. I put the wheel underthe car. You won’t trip on it and it isextra protection.

Check the brake hoses, pushing the plas-tic spring protection out of the way, forcracks, other damage, or leaks.

Check the disc for excessive corrosion,cracks or uneven wear. It will have aswept area. Ensure this is not grooved.

The pads themselves can be examinedfor thickness without removing. Theyshould be a minimum of 3mm by thenext service. The two pads on each calli-per should have even wear and acrossthe particular axle. If not, find out whynot.

Pad replacement is not a servicing item.The procedure is covered in the RV8Resource in full.

Examine the flexible hoses with care.Especially where clamped, arrowed inred,

Bits of thebrake: thepad is ar-rowed in red,the sweptpart of thedisc in whiteand the yel-low is theunswept bits.

Each disc has aninspection hole. Icut out a 3mmspacer that Ipress in betweenthe disc and thepad backing.Remember that3mm is what itshould not beunder by thenext servicetime..

Under car 12

Page 36



Replacing brake fluid

Time: 2 hours

Items: brake fluid, DoT 4 or higher, usenew bottle

Tools: items to raise car, brake bleedingkit, ring spanner for loosening bleednipple

Frequency: annually/12,000 miles - seetext

I do not recommend. However, if I did Iwould recommend using one of the pro-prietary brake bleeding kits on the mar-ket, such as Eezibleed or a vacuum kit,such as the one Draper makes whichhas been recommended to me.

The one directive is that you follow theinstructions on the kit. This article is toshow you where things are.

Release the wheel nuts one turn andraise the whole car and place on axlestands. Remove wheels and place underthe car. This means you won’t fall overthem and if the car does topple there isan extra safety features.

The nipple on the front n/s calliper. Turnthe steering to present the nipple.

Nipple on rear n/s calliper.

Ready to bleed rear calliper using Eezi-bleed kit. Whilst ‘pumping’ the brakeswas the historical method of bleedingthe brakes, some suggest that it can bequite risky unless you really know whatyou are doing.

The Eezibleed kit is the cheaper butmore fiddly. The vacuum kit is les than£50 and is very simple and convenientto use.

Wiping or spaying lithium-based whitegrease over the nipples makes themeasier to undo next time.

Page 37

Under car 13



Specialist tasks

There are very few tasks that are be-yond the home mechanic. In fact thereare virtually none. The only thing youhave to balance is whether the price andthe effort is worth all the hassle.

You might be surprised to see replace-ment of the fuel filter in the ‘not worththe bother list.

Petrol can set up allergic reactions and,so research tends to suggest, can betoxic. Despite the fact I was wearingprotective gloves a tear let in some pet-rol and this set up a minor allergic reac-tion. The next time I touched fuel thereaction became quite severe. I now getthe MoT station to change the fuel filteronce every couple of tests. The extracharge was £15 + the cost of the filterthe last time.

Tow-in can be checked quite easily andfairly accurately. I used angle iron onone kit car I built and this proved soaccurate that I whenever I had itchecked at a tyre depot they alwaysfound it spot on. The only reason Istopped doing it was when I drove overthe angle iron.

Headlight aim similarly can be done athome. I had a sheet of 3/8” ply that Iused. A little bracket on the inside of thegarage door ensured that it was thesame every time.

Timing will be covered in a later editionof RV8 Resource and the servicing manu-al. It is easy enough. In fact very easy.

Timing

Headlight aim

Chassis geometry

Fuel filter

Specialist tasks

Page 38

My thanks to the companies above forhelping to keep www.rv8r.co.uk free toend users.



You must always

There are a few ‘tricks’ that I have learntover the years, or have been taught,which make servicing cars safer andmore dependable. Here are a few whichI learnt the hard way.

Count them out and in

Only bring those tools which you needfor the task and keep them in a tray.Once the job is finished, ensure thatthey are all back in the tray and account-ed for. I also, after a rather unfortunateincident, now take cloths in multiples ofsix. That way there is no temptation tothink that ‘there were only 5’.

Check wheel nuts

I go through a little procedure after eve-ry bit of work I do on the car. If it wasraised at any time I always check thetightness of the wheel nuts. And everyone.

Chocks, jacks and other bits

I check under the car before I move itespecially for anything blocking thewheels. If the work was major then Itake the car for a short drive, no morethan ten minutes, then check everythingI worked on for leaks, excessive heat oranything unusual.

I park the car and then, the next time Iuse it, check for oil or other fluid leaksunder the car.

There are a number of problems withexperience. Firstly, it always comes af-ter you needed it and secondly, it iswasted on the old as no one listens.

Use a pro

If I do anything major to the car, suchas brakes, steering, that sort of thing, Itry and arrange it before an MoT. I thentell the tester what I’ve done and say Iwould appreciate a thorough check ofthose items. It got to the stage wheremy tester used to ask me what I’d done.I gave him an extra £5.

He used to give advice on better waysto do things as well. All for £5.

Recheck everything

After a couple of weeks to a month, de-pending on when convenient, I checkwhatever I have done.

I split the servicing into parts so thewhole process takes eight months. Sowhen I go to examine the brakes I alsocheck that, after the oil change, which Icompleted a couple of weeks before,there is no leak around the filter andthat the sump plug is still tight.

Know things

Take photos of the underside andunder bonnet areas of you car. Get toknow where everything goes. That wayif a wire comes adrift you spot it immedi-ately.

Cleanliness

Keep the car clean, especially the engineand underneath. That way a new leakwill be spotted instantly as well as thesource.

Keep you garage spotless. If you drop anut and after a search on the groundhave a choice as to which it might be,look upon this as a sign you need acleanup.

Page 39

There is no actual charge for this servicing guide.However, the costs of running www.RV8R.co.ukincrease as time goes on due to the bandwidthrequirements. With over 15,000 visitors to thesite for the September edition of the Resourcethis has pushed up my hosting fees.

So I’m asking for a contribution to running thesite and for this download. The actual amount isup to you. If you don’t think it is worth anythingthen so be it. But if you do like it then a contribu-tion, £5, or whatever you think it is worth, viaPaypal to [email protected] or by chequemade payable to RV8R to:

Guide,Pentheos, Founthill Road.

Saltdean, Brighton BN2 8AJ

would be really welcome. It will ensure that it willcontinue to be available for some time to come.

You can assist by giving me some feedback, tothe same addresses above, including ideas andsuggestions.

And, if you are going to do some work on your carthen consider taking a few pictures and sendingthem through to me at [email protected]

Derek

Not the end, but thebeginning, we hope,of a series of down-loadable articles forthose with TVRs.

All material in this production is copyright Writewheel

Documents

TVR Griffith and Chimaera Servicing · TVR Griffith and Chimaera Servicing From the publishers of the RV8 Resource See An introduction November 2010