Turkey's traditional confections - The second Turkish story.pdf

7/28/2019 Turkey's traditional confections - The second Turkish story.pdf

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Turkeys Traditional Confections

Until the discovery of sugar, people satisfied their need for sweets by eating honey aswell as fresh and dried fruits and the syrups made from them.
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According to legend, when the Persian emperor Darius, who lived in the pre-Christian era, firstsaw sugar being produced on his conquest of India, he called this sweet liquid obtained fromsugar cane bee-less honey. A carefully kept secret, the production of sugar brought itsproducers big money. According to historians, sugar was initially introduced to the Europeans,who at first dubbed it white salt. Sugar, whose production from sugar cane was a laborious and

costly process, was an exotic and tasty yet pricey sweet that was only consumed by wealthyEuropeans as a nutrient with medicinal qualities. Loaf sugar in those times was shaved off andsold by the gram like other medicaments. In the period up to the industrial age, sugar remainedan expensive substance always hard to come by.

The Confectioner'sArtGoes West

But the Middle Eastern confectioners art gradually spread to the West, in the process far

surpassing its contemporary counterparts during the period of Ottoman splendor. Theproduction of hard or rock candy was known in both the East and the Near East prior to theOttomans. But the Ottomans invented such a fine product that it was as momentous as the

discovery of sugar itself. This marvel was known as rahat l-hulkum (contentment of the throat).Later the Ottomans created the miracle called lti lokum and, eventually, just lokum, aka Turkishdelight.

Lokum

In terms of its overall composition, lokum can be defined as a more advanced form of the fruitpastes that are made from pekmez (Turkish grape molasses). Alternatively, it could also becharacterized as having been inspired by halvah (sesame paste). Despite a plethora of viewsabout when lokum was first produced, no conclusive date has been ascertained so far. But highquality sugar andstarchare known to have been widespread in the Ottoman lands by the 18thcentury. Any lokum produced prior to that date probably varied widely in quality. Although themaking of lokum with its basic ingredients of water, sugar and starch may appear simple, no oneapart from the Ottomans was successful in producing it. The leading western confectioners ofthe period proved unable to produce European lokum despite collaboration with Turkishconfectioners in the Ottoman period, which did not prevent Europe from becoming the biggestmarket for Ottoman lokum. Unable to produce it themselves, the Europeans nevertheless didone very important thing, namely, they marketed the sweet under the name Turkish delight.

Rocky Candy

Originally known as ada (burnt sugar or caramel) candy in Turkish, this remains one of the

most popular products of Turkish confectionery even today. Called ada or akide, both of which

derive from the same root, in common parlance it means used for two mutual purposes andharks back to the days of the Janissaries when it was offered following the ceremony thataccompanied the quarterly distribution of pay. Known today as akide ekeri, its earlier Ottoman

names, like musk of the mouth and macun (paste) are fading slowly into oblivion. But whether in the form of Turkish delight, rock candy or some other form of confection, candywas distributed in previously designated amounts to state offices in the Ottoman periodaccording to a strict protocol.
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Gelenein ekerli Tatlarekerin icadna kadar insanlar tatl ihtiyacn asrlar iinde taze ve kuru meyveler veonlardan yaplan ra, pekmez ve baldan salamaktayd.

Efsanelere gre Milattan nce yaayan Pers mparatoru Dariusun Hindistan istilas srasnda

ilk defa eker retildiini grdnde kamtan elde edilen tatl svya arsz bal olarak

adlandrm. ekerin retimi sr olarak saklanm ve byk paralar kazanlm. Tarihilere

gre eker ilk defa Avrupallara tantlm. Avrupallar ilk nce ekere beyaz tuz adn

vermiler. eker kamndan retimi hayli zor ve masrafl eker egzotik, pahal lezzetli ve

ancak zengin Avrupallarn ila olarak kulland bir besin maddesi gibi tketilmi. O

zamanlarda kelle ekeri tralanarak dier ilalar gibi gram olarak satlrm. Dnyann

endstriyel aa gelinceye kadar olan dneminde eker daima ulalmas ok pahal bir

madde olarak kalm.

Batya Akan Sanat

Orta Dou ekercilik sanatnn birikimleri batya doru akm. Bu aamada Osmanlnn

grkemli dnemlerinde ekercilik sanat adalarnn ok zerine km boyuttayd. Akide

ekeri yapm Osmanldan nce Orta Dou ve Douda bilinmekteydi. Fakat Osmanllar

ylesine bir eker rn icat ettiler ki neredeyse ekerin icad kadar nemliydi. Adna rahat

l hulkum (boaz rahatlatan) denildi bu icadn. Daha sonralar lti lokum ve nihayet lokum

dedikleri mucizeyi rettiler.

Lokum

Lokum genel yaps itibariyle aslnda Anadoluda yaplan pekmez sucuklarnn bir nevi

gelimi hali olarak tanmlanabilir. Dier taraftan gelimi bir helva kltrnden esinlenilmi

bir rn olarak da tanmlanabilir. Lokumun ilk defa ne zaman retildii hakknda eitli

yorumlar bulunmasna ramen kesin bir tarih yok. Ancak kaliteli eker ve niastann Osmanl

topraklarnda yaygnlamas 18.yzyl olarak bilinir. Fakat bu tarihlerden nce lokum imalat

belki farkl kalitede olsa yaplmaktayd. inde temel olarak su, niasta ve eker bulunan

lokumun yapm basit gibi alglanmasna ramen Osmanl dnda yapm baarlamam.

Dnemin nemli batl ekerci ustalar ve aratrmaclar Osmanl dneminde stanbuldaki

ekerciler ile almalar yapmasna ramen Avrupa lokumu retememi. Buna karlk en ok

lokum zellikle Osmanl dnemlerinde Avrupaya satlm. Lokum retemeyen Avrupallarn

yapt en nemli ey lokumu Turkish Delight olarak dnyaya markalatrmasdr.

Akide ekeri

Akide ekeri nceleri ada ekeri olarak tanmlanm Osmanl ekerciliinin gnmzde hl

yaayan keyifli rndr. Tarih iinde ayn kkten gelen ada ve akide kelimeleri halk dilinde
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iki ama iin karlkl kullanld bilinmektedir. Akidenin eker olarak tanmlanmas Yenieri

Ocanda aylk maalarn dendii ulfe treninden sonra ikram edilmesiyle kltre

yerlemi. Gnmzde akide ekeri ne km bir rn olmas nedeniyle Osmanl

ekerciliinin dier az miski, peynir ekeri -ki peynirle ilgisi yoktur-, nbet ekeri, macun

gibi ekerlemeler unutulmaya balamtr.

Gerek lokum, gerekse akide ve dier ekerlemeler Osmanl dneminde makamlara hiyerarik

dzene gre belirlenen miktarlarda datlmaktayd.

eker SugarBal Honey

Lezzet TastBesin Quality

Sanat Art

Dou EastNiasta StarchTarih History

- ThreePeynir Cheese

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Turkey's traditional confections - The second Turkish story.pdf