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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 1 - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL: a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael Retter This private tour is very similar to our set- departure Yucatán tour combined with its Cozumel extension, but it was more target-intensive, faster-paced, and included only one morning on Cozumel. We also cut out visits to a couple ruins sites as the participants had already visited the locations. Still, we hit sites like Calakmul and Bonampak that are as famous for incredible ruins as they are for stunning rainforest wildlife. above: Turquoise-browed Motmot Itinerary 8 Feb Arrival in Cancún with night in Valladolid 9 Feb Río Lagartos and Felipe Carillo Puerto 10 Feb Felipe Carillo Puerto to Xpujil 11 Feb Calakmul 12 Feb Calakmul to Palenque, via the Usumacinta Marshes 13 Feb Bonampak 14 Feb Yaxchilán 15 Feb Bonampak and Las Guacamayas 16 Feb Las Guacamayas 17 Feb Palenque to Cozumel 18 Feb Isla Cozumel 19 Feb Departure from Cancún

Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

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Page 1: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 1 -

The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL: a Tropical Birding private tour.

8–19 February 2010

Leader: Michael Retter

Photos and report by Michael Retter

This private tour is very similar to our set-

departure Yucatán tour combined with its Cozumel extension, but it was more

target-intensive, faster-paced, and included only one morning on Cozumel.

We also cut out visits to a couple ruins sites as the participants had already

visited the locations. Still, we hit sites like Calakmul and Bonampak that are as

famous for incredible ruins as they are for

stunning rainforest wildlife. above: Turquoise-browed Motmot

Itinerary

8 Feb Arrival in Cancún with night in Valladolid 9 Feb Río Lagartos and Felipe Carillo Puerto 10 Feb Felipe Carillo Puerto to Xpujil 11 Feb Calakmul 12 Feb Calakmul to Palenque, via the Usumacinta Marshes 13 Feb Bonampak 14 Feb Yaxchilán 15 Feb Bonampak and Las Guacamayas 16 Feb Las Guacamayas 17 Feb Palenque to Cozumel 18 Feb Isla Cozumel 19 Feb Departure from Cancún

Page 2: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 2 -

Summary

The weather was nearly perfect the entire 12 days of the trip. We experienced

cloudy skies and temperatures between 55 and 75°F throughout. Combined with

ubiquitous antswarms, this meant that midday bird activity was much higher than

normal. Indeed, it was impossible to eat lunch a few days without being distracted

by some new exciting flock. Our only rainy day was birding the Usumacinta

marshes, but no matter, since birding there is mostly from the car anyway.

We began birding near Río Lagartos in xeric thorn forest and desert scrub, a habitat

we wouldn’t see for the remainder of the trip. Here we scored all the wanted

endemics: Yucatán Wren, Yucatán Bobwhite, Mexican Sheartail, Lesser Roadrunner,

and Orange Oriole. After a seaside brunch we spent a relaxing few hours cruising

the Ría Lagartos (río means river; ría

means estuary), famous for its coral-red

flocks of American Flamingos. We spent

the late afternoon driving to Felipe

Carillo Puerto, where there is a nice

stand of relatively dry rainforest. A quick

evening survey of the forest yielded

multiple antswarms, but it was a bit late

in the day for much bird activity.

We returned very early the next morning, hoping for the two endemic nightjars.

Wishful thinking, as it would turn out, but our early start did yield a Great Curassow, a

Northern Potoo, and a Mottled Owl. This proved to be one of the best days of

birding, as we literally moved from antswarm to antswarm. This allowed us close

and prolonged views of exciting birds such as Gray-throated Chat (at right), Long-

billed Gnatwren, and Black Catbird. It was painful to leave that afternoon, but we

had to get to Xpujil in time for dinner.

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 3 -

We rose early the next morning to slowly

drive the entrance road to Calakmul in

the dark. The chance of seeing a jaguar

or an ocelot is more than enough to get

me to set my alarm for 3 a.m., and

Calakmul is as good as place as any to

see one. There were no kitties on the

road, but we did see hundreds of Wood

and Clay-colored thrushes, a few dozen

Ocellated Turkeys, five Great Curassows,

and half a dozen Ruddy Quail-Doves. The turkey is ridiculously easy to see here, as

they beg for scraps from any two-legged primate. We came across a huge flock of

Yucatán Jays chock full of curious immatures. There were more exciting antswarms

inside the ruins site, making it easy to add species such as Ruddy Woodcreeper,

Collared Forest-Falcon, and Swainson’s Warbler to our trip list. On the way out of the

reserve we had a close encounter of the chicken kind, and spent quite a while

watching a rather territorial group of bachelor Singing Quail.

After another morning at Calakmul, we drove east to the Usumacinta marshes.

While combing through hundreds of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and Northern

Jaçanas, we came across relatively more exciting species such as Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, and Fork-tailed Flycatcher. A downpour

cut our visit a bit short, but we’d be returning on the way back to Cancún in a few

days. We spent the night in Palenque.

Since everyone had visited Palenque on previous trips to the region, we opted to

skip it and start off in the dark and drive deep into the Lacandón rainforest, the

eastern “point” of Chiapas that juts into Guatemala. In every previous visit to

Bonampak, I’d never made it to the ruins themselves because the birding along the

entrance road was so amazing. The morning’s birding was no different. Little

Tinamous sang all around us, and one did come out to play. So did a stunning male

Slaty-tailed Trogon, a Thrush-like Schiffornis, and a pair of Rufous Pihas. We’d be

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 4 -

returning in a couple days, though,

so we forced ourselves to the end of

the road. At the ruins themselves, the

birding was just as good if not better.

An antswarm was making its way

through the vendors’ area, and it

was attended by a pair of Dusky

Antbirds, a Tawny-winged Wood-

creeper, a Kentucky Warbler, and a

very hungry White-whiskered Puffbird (left). The edges of the airstrip were

alive with birds: Blue-black Grosbeak, Great Antshrike, White-collared Manakin,

Painted Bunting, Blue Seedeater. And then a pair of King Vultures flew over at low

altitude. And it wasn’t even time for lunch yet! There were lots of flowers and fruit

around the ruins, providing food for a cadre of orioles, tanagers, honeycreepers,

and hummingbirds (including the electric green Purple-crowned Fairy). And then

there are the ruins themselves. Though nothing to sneeze at from the outside,

Bonampak is best known for its stunning and well-preserved murals. Interesting

depictions include a group of women piercing their tongues with needles to

sacrifice blood to the gods, and a bound prisoner having his fingernails pulled out—

ouch! We spent the night in Frontera Corozal, on the banks of the Río Usumacinta

opposite Guatemala.

Sunrise found us slicing through the mist as we headed down the Usumacinta to

Yaxchilán. We arrived well before the ruins officially opened, and I planned to bird

the airstrip until then. As luck would have it, the very nice site administrator let us into

the ruins early, and we had the place to ourselves for quite awhile. For sheer

ambiance and wonder, this has to be one of the best Maya ruins. You enter the site

via the Labyrinth, a building with a dank, dark, passageway filled with the high-

pitched twitters and faint breezes generated by passing bats. If you don’t know

what howler monkeys sound like, this can be a pretty frightening place, as their

other-worldly roars echo through the hollows of the Labyrinth. Following the light

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 5 -

ahead, you take a few steps up and out into the large main plaza, complete with

massive, stately fig trees. You never know what will be feeding in the figs, and

today’s surprise was a male Western Tanager, a bit lower and further east than

expected. Other critters coming to dine on the tree’s bounty included Golden-hooded Tanager, Gartered Trogon, Keel-billed Toucan, Mealy Parrot, Short-billed

Pigeon, White-winged Tanager, and Plain Chachalaca. A coral bean tree was in

bloom on the main plaza, and it was closely guarded by a Scaly-breasted Hummingbird. A Long-billed Hermit did manage to steal a few sips before being

chased away, though. The tell-tale whistles of a Black Hawk-Eagle directed our

gaze skyward, where the massive

raptor was soaring in tight circles.

There’s never enough time here,

and soon we had to head catch

our boat to head back upriver to

the hotel where we had an early

night.

The next morning was an early one,

as we wanted to get out into the

good forest at Bonampak before

first light. Hearing a Great Potoo and a number of Great Tinamous singing should

have been thrilling, but they were hard to hear over the monotonous drone of half

a dozen troops of howler monkeys. But our early rise was well worth it. As dawn

broke, an Accipiter started calling, and soon thereafter flew over our heads. I tried

some playback, and almost immediately a Bicolored Hawk flew up and perched in

a dead snag. Its mate also made a pass. Bicolored Hawk is an exceptionally rare

bird in Mexico, and we were having stellar views—what a treat! Daytime birding

was fast-paced here, as usual. A large flock of noisy Dot-winged Antwrens busily

scoured the middle levels of the forest. I was especially happy to see a group of

three rusty-naped Gray-chested Doves running along a trail ahead of us; I had only

heard this species before. An all-gray male Rose-throated Becard caused some

momentary confusion. Though I was familiar with this plumage from further south, I

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 6 -

wasn’t aware that it occurred in Mexico. We had even better luck with King Vulture

(below) today, seeing a pair both at Bonampak and later in the day over the

highway near Benemérito de las Américas. A quick stop at the latter location

provided jaw-dropping views of their clown-like faces as they circled just above eye

level. After dropping our

bags in our rooms at the Las

Guacamayas ecolodge, we

took a short hike outside the

grounds. We timed it just

right, and parrots of many

flavors flew by and perched

atop trees as they prepared

to roost for the evening. The

star of the show, of course,

was the lodge’s eponymous

Scarlet Macaws.

Hiking through the ecolodge’s reserve with a local guide is always a treat. It’s nice

to get into the forest understory, and Tomás has a great set of eyes. He keyed us in

on many birds we’d never had seen otherwise, such as a tree full of Great Curassows and a group of Gray-headed Tanagers. It had rained in the early

morning hours, so we knew that tracks we found in a leafcutter ant mound were

very fresh. One set was of a White-tailed Deer and the other much larger prints

were made by the jaguar that was stalking it—how exhilarating! Stub-tailed Spadebill and Red-capped Manakin are two of the targets on this walk, and we

had nice views of both species. On the walk out of the forest, Tomás showed us

some fruit and let us sample both the unripe fruit (reminiscent of slick cucumber)

and a nicely ripened specimen, whose taste is hard to describe. It was slightly floral,

pleasantly tart, and quite simply delicious. The dark seeds we discarded are dried

and made into a beguiling confectionary; we were eating cacao. Who’d have

guessed you could turn those huge seeds into chocolate? We drove to Palenque in

the afternoon, heading to bed early in anticipation of the long drive ahead.

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 7 -

With only a stop at the Usumacinta marshes, we drove from Palenque to Playa del

Carmen, from there taking a ferry to Cozumel. The next morning we headed to

some nice forest outside of town. Forest on Cozumel means impenetrable, rather

xeric, 15-foot-tall forest, rather like that found in southern Texas. We were fortunate

to find all the sought-after endemics within the first couple hours of birding: Cozumel Vireo, Cozumel Wren, Cozumel Emerald, Yucatán Vireo, and local populations of

Yellow-faced Grassquit, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Bananaquit, and Blue-gray

Gnatcatcher. Biologically, Cozumel is very much a Caribbean island, even though

it’s less than 10 miles from mainland Mexico; a point driven home by the presence

of species such as White-crowned Pigeon and Western Spindalis, which both gave

stunning views as they came in to feed at a fig tree. Having had such success, we

returned to Cancún early and relaxed the evening before our early morning flights

homes.

White-crowned Pigeon, one of the Caribbean species found on Cozumel.

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 8 -

Photo Gallery (in chronological order)

Yucatán Wrens were downright abundant this morning. It's a good thing, because they're

endemic to the thin band of coastal desert scrub along the northern edge of the peninsula.

Today was our only shot!

We were thrilled to find this baby Mexican Sheartail, who attracted regular visits by its

doting mother.

Laughing Falcon. Orange Orioles are found only on the Yucatán Peninsula.

Page 9: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 9 -

Male Yucatán Bobwhite on the move! A closer view of this handsome endemic.

Our wonderful boat captain, Diego, threw a

small fish into the water near our boat, and this Common Black-Hawk readily accepted the gift!

Great White Heron is one of the

Caribbean birds that is regularly found along the coast of the Yucatán.

Page 10: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 10

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Every antswarm in the Yucatán

seems to have a Gray-throated Chat in attendance. This one's a male.

And sometimes you get lucky and find a

Long-billed Gnatwren with them, too!

Blue Ground-Doves are typically found way up in the canopy. And aren't

in the genus Columbina. Perhaps it's time for a name change...

Rose-throated Tanagers (which aren't tanagers) were also eating arthropods fleeing from the

advancing line of army ants. This one's a male. Another Yucatán endemic on the list!

Page 11: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 11

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And here's a female Gray-throated Chat.

(Which is a cardinalid, not a wood-warbler. Or a chat for that matter.)

Tawny-winged Woodcreepers are

often found with ants.

Mottled Owl, the first bird of the "day". One of five Great Curassows that crossed the road ahead of us on the way into Calakmul.

Page 12: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 12

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Estructura I, one of Calakmul's massive pyramids. Ocellated Turkeys manage to be ugly

and beautiful at the same time.

A covey of Singing Quail surrounded us when I whistled back in response,

even flying at our heads multiple times.

Young Yucatán Jays have yellow bills.

Page 13: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 13

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We saw multiple Gray-throated

Chats at the army ant swarms today.

Seeding bamboo attracted

this male Blue Bunting.

Ruddy Woodcreeper was new for

our "ant swarm" list. So were Kentucky and Swainson's Warblers.

People aren't the only ones who enjoy

the view from the top of the pyramids, as this Roadside Hawk can attest.

Page 14: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 14

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I was hesitant to include a photo of

roadkill, but this poor beautiful Tamandua (a species of anteater) was perhaps

the most exciting find of the day.

Northern Jaçanas are awesome in flight. Besides

the long toes and florescent chartreuse wings, they really show off their yellow wing spurs.

Plain-breasted Ground-Dove. It's a grayish female Ruddy Ground-Dove with

purple spots in the wings, pretty much. Talk about an anticlimactic lifer!

Besides the colorful head, Lesser Yellow- headed Vultures differ from Turkey Vultures

in their longer wings (well past the tail), blacker plumage, white primary shafts,

and noticeable ruff of nape feathers.

Page 15: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 15

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This Bare-throated Tiger-Heron didn't seem to mind the rain. But then again,

it's wearing a raincoat...check out

the water beaded on its back!

Surely Keel-billed is the best toucan. What a bill!

Dusky Antbirds also came into an

antswarm at Bonampak. This is a male.

And this is a female Dusky Antbird.

Page 16: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 16

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Another ant swarm follower:

Yellow-bellied Flycatcher.

Male Black-crowned Tityras really

like the fruit of the gumbo limbo tree.

Stub-billed Spadebills are remarkably

common in the Lacandón. We heard well over 80 in 4 days of birding.

The Thrush-like Schiffornis has an awesome song.

Page 17: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

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Which one of these leaves is not like the other? Green Shrike-Vireo, which has a song

remarkably like that of Tufted Titmouse.

A lifer for the leader--Gray-chested Dove!

Usually hard to see in dense thickets, this male Great Antshrike proved to be quite confiding.

The same thicket held a male Blue-black Grosbeak.

Page 18: Tropical Birding - The YUCATÁN, the LACANDÓN, & COZUMEL · 2016-10-19 · a Tropical Birding private tour. 8–19 February 2010 Leader: Michael Retter Photos and report by Michael

The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 18

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This young Yucatán [Central American]

Spider-Monkey was not pleased we had intruded into his territory, but thankfully he

stopped at just trying to pee on us!

Being the first people at Yaxchilán

in the morning afforded us views of these comical agoutis.

The small hole on the right was left by a White-tailed Deer, who was being tracked

by the jaguar that left the much larger

footprint on the left. How humbling it is to know there's an animal out there that could

absolutely take you out if it wanted to.

Speaking of which, rumor has it there are still Harpy Eagles in the Lacandón,

but this seems pretty unlikely!

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 19

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Rufous-tailed Jacamar. Royal Flycatchers have a very odd pattern on

the upperparts. This bird just wouldn't show us her crest, and I tried, believe me!

This cute reddish bat was one of hundreds that live inside the cool passageways

of "The Labyrinth" at Yaxchilán. I believe this is Thomas's Sac-winged Bat.

The exhilirating Scaly-breasted Hummingbird. This individual was guarding a coral bean tree in the

middle of the Grand Plaza at Yaxchilán.

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The Yucatán, the Lacandón, & Cozumel: 8–19 February 2010 - 20

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Every once in awhile, a Long-tailed Hermit

would be able to sneak in for a sip.

Hanging out at Las Guacamayas lodge.

This Yucatán Black Howler was just outside the reception desk!

This literally snappy Red-capped Manakin did his awesome wing clap for us!

One of a pair of Scarlet Macaws that's nesting at the Las Guacamayas preserve.

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Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds are frequent visitors to the feeders at Las Guacamayas. Both Long-billed and Stripe-throated Hermits come, too.

A quarter hour spent quietly within sight of a fruiting

tree yielded half a dozen Western Spindalises.

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Though tough to see on the mainland,

Black Catbirds are thick on Cozumel.

So are Mangrove Cuckoos.

And saving the best for last, Cozumel Vireo is far and away the

standout bird of the island. Too bad there aren't more orange vireos!

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BIRD LIST This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us. Taxonomy and nomenclature closely follow Howell's Checklist of the Birds of Mexico

and all subsequent AOU supplements, but some IOC decisions are also included. In any case, scientific names are included to leave no doubt. Quotation marks

denote a possible future split. For instance, "Cozumel" Bananaquit means that the “Cozumel” form may one day be split from Bananaquit. Brackets denote the larger

taxon from which a species has been split. For instance, Stripe-throated [Little] Hermit means that Stripe-throated Hermit was once considered a subspecies of

Little Hermit (and may still be by some authorities). Parentheses denote an alternate name used by some checklists. For example, Rosita’s (Rose-bellied) Bunting.

Total: 315 bird species, of which 10 were heard only.

Annotations: H = heard only L = tour leader only ^ = endemic to northern Middle America * = endemic to Mexico (Y) = endemic to the Yucatán Peninsula (C) = endemic to Isla Cozumel TINAMOUS: Tinamidae H Great Tinamou Tinamus major

Multiple birds heard at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Seen well at Bonampak.

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H Thicket Tinamou Crypturellus cinnamomeus Heard in the drier forest at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Slaty-breasted Tinamou Crypturellus boucardi

One bird seen exceptionally well in the foothills above Yaxchilán. Also heard at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas.

WATERFOWL: Anatidae Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Hundreds in the Usumacinta marshes. Also on Cozumel. Blue-winged Teal Anas discors Small numbers in the Usumacinta marshes. Also on Cozumel. CRACIDS: Cracidae Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula Common.

H Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens Heard at Calakmul. Great Curassow Crax rubra Both sexes seen well on 3 days, including an amazing 5 birds at Las Guacamayas. NEW WORLD QUAIL: Odontophoridae Yucatán Bobwhite^ (Y) Colinus nigrogularis

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After fleeting glimpses on the roadside, we managed great views of a covey of birds escaping the midday sun under that shade of a large tree in the desert scrub near Río Lagartos. Singing Quail^ Dactylortyx thoracicus Four males ran circles at us in response to whistled imitations at Calakmul—even flying at our heads on more than one occasion. One cool chicken! PHEASANTS and TURKEYS: Phasianidae Ocellated Turkey^ (Y) Meleagris ocellata This beautiful bird is common and confiding at Calakmul. GREBES: Podicipedidae Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps One in the Ría Lagartos. FLAMINGOS: Phoenicoperidae American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Common and colorful resident of the Ría Lagartos. STORKS: Ciconiiformes Wood Stork Mycteria americana Common throughout the area. FRIGATEBIRDS: Fregatidae Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Common along the coast. We also saw one well inland on the coast highway near the Río Usumacinta.

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CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Common throughout the area. Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus Common in the Ría Lagartos. DARTERS: Anhingidae Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Nice views of a handful in the Ría Lagartos. PELICANS: Pelecanidae American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos Small numbers in the Ría Lagartos. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Common in the Ría Lagartos. HERONS: Ardeidae L Pinnated Bittern Botaurus pinnatus I saw one distant flying bird at the Usumacinta marshes. Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum Fabulous and repeated views of this sharp-looking wader both in the Ría Lagartos and in the Usumacinta marshes. Great Blue Heron

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Ardea herodias Uncommon at large bodies of water. "Great White" Heron Ardea herodias occidentalis We saw a couple of these all-white, massive herons in the Ría Lagartos. Great Egret Ardea alba Abundant throughout. Snowy Egret Egretta thula Common in marshland. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Common in marshland. Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor Small numbers in the Ría Lagartos. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Abundant throughout. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A couple in the Usumacinta marshes. Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea Uncommon in marshland. IBISES and SPOONBILLS: Threskiornithidae White Ibis Eudocimus albus

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Common in marshland. L Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus I saw some in transit in the Usumacinta marshes, but we opted not to stop. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Common in marshland. NEW WORLD VULTURES: Cathartidae Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Abundant. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Abundant. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Common over marshland. King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa We had close views of this species on 3 separate days, totaling 7 individuals! Most were near Bonampak. OSPREY: Pandionidae Osprey Pandion haliaetus Common in the Ría Lagartos. TYPICAL RAPTORS: Acciptridae White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus

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A couple in transit near Escárcega. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis A couple in the Usumacinta marshes. Bicolored Hawk Accipiter bicolor It’s extremely rare to encounter this species in Mexico, so we were happy to hear it at first light at Bonampak. And we were ecstatic when a pair responded to playback, one of them perching up in a dead snag! Common Black-Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Common near Río Lagartos. Great views of a trained individual that Diego fed a fish to in the ría. Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga Incredible side-by-side comparisons of an adult with the above species in the Ría Largartos. Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Common and widespread. Gray Hawk Buteo nitidus Common and widespread. Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Common and widespread. White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Nice views of a pair near Río Lagartos. Zone-tailed Hawk

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Buteo albonotatus Close views of a fly-by over the Ría Lagartos. Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis A couple near Río Lagartos. Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus One adult circled over the main plaza at Yaxchilán. Another was heard singing at Las Guacamayas. FALCONS and CARACARAS: Falconidae

H Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis Heard at first light at Bonampak. Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Commonly heard in the drier forests of Río Lagartos, Felipe Carillo Puerto, and Calakmul. Seen nicely at an antswarm at the last location. Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Uncommon in open habitats. Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Uncommon in open habitats. Seen very well near Río Lagartos. American Kestrel Falco sparverius Uncommon and widespread. RAILS, GALLINULES, and COOTS: Rallidae

H Clapper Rail Rallus longirostris

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Heard from deep within the mangroves lining the Ría Lagartos. Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea After hearing one at Calakmul, we had multiple views of an individual walking on the road in the Usumacinta marshes. LIMPKIN: Aramidae Limpkin Aramus guarauna A couple in the Usumacinta marshes. PLOVERS: Charadriidae Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola One on the beach on Cozumel. Wilson's Plover Charadrius wilsonia A couple on sandbars along the Ría Lagartos. Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus Small numbers on sandbars along the Ría Lagartos. Killdeer Charadrius vociferus Common and widespread in marshland. STILTS and AVOCETS: Recurvirostridae Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Common in marshland. JAÇANAS: Jacanidae

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Northern Jaçana Jacana spinosa This stunning, long-toed bird is abundant in freshwater marshland. SANDPIPERS: Scolopacidae Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Widespread in marshland. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca A few in the Ría Lagartos. "Western" Willet Tringa s. inornata A few in the Ría Lagartos. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres A few in the Ría Lagartos. Also at a beach on Cozumel. Sanderling Calidris alba A large flock at the mouth of the Ría Lagartos. Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri A few in the Ría Lagartos. Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla A handful in the Usumacinta marshes. GULLS: Larinae Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Abundant along the coast.

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Ring-billed Gull Larus delawarensis Uncommon in the Ría Lagartos. "American" Herring Gull Larus argentatus smithsonianus Uncommon in the Ría Lagartos. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus graelsii Uncommon in the Ría Lagartos. TERNS: Sterninae Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Commonly seen feeding over the Usumacinta marshes. Uncommon in the Ría Lagartos. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Uncommon in the Ría Lagartos. Forster's Tern Sterna forsteri Common in the Ría Lagartos. Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Common in the Ría Lagartos. Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis Common in the Ría Lagartos. SKIMMERS: Rhynchopinae Black Skimmer Rynchops niger

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Common in the Ría Lagartos. PIGEONS and DOVES: Columbidae Rock Pigeon Columba livia Common and widespread around built-up human habitation. Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis A few seen in and near the savannahs of the Usumacinta marshes.

H Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa Heard a couple places in the Lacandón. White-crowned Pigeon Patagioenas leucocephala Wonderful views of up to a dozen feeding on figs on Cozumel. Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris Common in drier areas. Short-billed Pigeon Patagioenas nigrirostris Abundant in the Lacandón. Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto Small numbers in Cancún. White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica Abundant in drier forest. Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura Common in desert scrub near Río Lagartos.

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Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina Abundant in desert scrub near Río Lagartos. Plain-breasted Ground-Dove Columbina minuta Half a dozen were found feeding on spilled grain in the Usumacinta marshes. A good bird for Mexico. Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Abundant in open habitat throughout. Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa Wonderful views of a responsive male at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also heard at Bonampak. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Small numbers seen in the Lacandón. Caribbean Dove Leptotila jamaicensis A handful seen on Cozumel. Heard at Calakmul. Gray-chested Dove Leptotila cassini A trio of birds seen very well running along a trail at Bonampak. Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana Eight individuals were seen remarkably well on the road into Calakmul one morning, including a bird that walked right up to us. PARROTS: Psittacidae Aztec [Olive-throated] Parakeet Aratinga [nana] astec

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Very common throughout. Scarlet Macaw Ara macao A handful of this impressive bird seen at the aptly-named Las Guacamayas reserve. Before the advent of the reserve, Scarlet Macaws were all but impossible to see in Mexico. White-crowned Parrot Pionus senilis One bird seen very well at Las Guacamayas. Additional fly-bys. White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons Uncommon throughout. Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis Great views of a dozen or so at Las Guacamays. Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa Common in the Lacandón. Particualry good views were had of a pair feeding directly overhead as we stood on a pyramid at Yaxchilán. CUCKOOS: Cuculidae

H "Common" Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana cayana group Common throughout; we didn’t bother tracking down this widespread Neotropical species. Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor Uncommon on Cozumel, where we had excellent views of multiple birds. Lesser Roadrunner* Geococcyx velox At least three birds were seen on the road in the desert scrub near Río Lagartos. Groove-billed Ani

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Crotophaga sulcirostris Abundant in open habitat. OWLS: Strigiformes Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Seen well near Río Lagartos. Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata Great views both at Felipe Carillo Puerto and at Las Guacamayas. Also heard at Bonampak. NIGHTJARS and NIGHTHAWKS: Caprimulgidae

Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis Commonly seen feeding at dusk over the Ríos Usumacinta and Lacantún. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Common. Seen on three days. POTOOS: Nyctibiidae H Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis One bird heard at Bonampak. A great bird for Mexico.

H Northern Potoo Nyctibius jamaicensis Heard at Felipe Carillo Puerto. SWIFTS: Apodidae White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Nice views of a couple flocks at Bonampak and Yaxchilán.

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“Yucatán” Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi gaumeri Common and widespread. Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis Fleeting glimpses near Palenque. HUMMINGBIRDS: Trochilidae Long-billed [Long-tailed] Hermit Phaethornis [superciliosus] longirostris Common in the Lacandón. An active lek at Las Guacamayas was a treat to see and hear. Stripe-throated [Little] Hermit Phaethornis striigularis Small numbers in the Lacandón. Scaly-breasted Hummingbird Phaeochroa cuvierii Common in the Lacandón. This species seems to be more widespread in the area than previously throught. Wedge-tailed Sabrewing^ Campylopterus curvipennis A couple very cooperative birds were feeding on roadside flowers at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Green-breasted Mango Anthracothorax prevostii One male seen well on Cozumel. Cozumel Emerald* (C) Chlorostilbon forficatus Three seen on Cozumel. Canivet's Emerald^ Chlorostilbon canivetii A couple were seen in the desert scrub near Río Lagartos.

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White-bellied Emerald^ Amazilia candida Noted at Felipe Carillo Puerto, Bonampak, and Las Guacamayas. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl A regular visitor to the Las Guacamayas hummingbird feeders. Buff-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia yucatanensis Common in the drier forest near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Cinnamon Hummingbird Amazilia rutila Common in the desert scrub near Río Lagartos, where we watched them feeding on skeleton-like, red-flowered Jatropha. Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti Single birds on 3 days in the Lacandón. A good bird for Mexico. Mexican Sheartail* Doricha eliza Common in desert scrub near Río Lagartos. We especially enjoyed watching an adult female feed her recent fledgling, who had a very neat-looking bill. Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris A couple near Río Lagartos. TROGONS and QUETZALS: Trogonidae Slaty-tailed Trogon Trogon massena A male came in nicely to playback at Bonampak. Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanocephalus

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We had marvelous views of a pair in drier forest near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Gartered [Violaceous] Trogon Trogon [violaceus] caligatus Common in rainforest. Recently split from Violaceous Trogon of S. America by AOU. Collared Trogon Trogon collaris One stunning emerald-and-ruby male at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also heard at Bonampak. MOTMOTS: Momotidae Blue-diademed [Blue-cr.] Motmot Momotus momota lessoni Seen at three locations, including at Las Guacamayas, where our local guide whistled in a male for close looks. This more widespread, black-crowned subspecies was recently split by IOC. Turquoise-browed Motmot Eumomota superciliosa This stunning species was seen very well in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Seen on multiple days. Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon Widespread near water. PUFFBIRDS and NUNBIRDS: Bucconidae White-whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis Noted on three days in the Lacandón. A male attending an ant swarm at Bonampak was especially memorable when he caught a large tarantula.

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JACAMARS: Galbulidae Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda Uncommon but vocal in the Lacandón. TOUCANS: Ramphastidae Collared Araçari Pteroglossus torquatus Common and widespread in rainforest. Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus This stunning bird is common and widespread in rainforest and was particularly obvious at Calakmul. WOODPECKERS: Picidae Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani A pair seen at Bonampak. Yucatán Woodpecker^ (Y) Melanerpes pygmaeus Uncommon in dry forest. Best views of this small woodpecker were obtained on Cozumel. Velásquez's [Golden-fronted] Woodpecker Melanerpes [aurifrons] santacruzi Common in drier forest; scarce in the Lacandón. This population, which resembles Red-bellied Woodpecker, has been split by IOC. Ladder-backed Woodpecker Picoides scalaris Common in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus

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Usually more of a highland bird in Mexico, we were happy to find this bird at Las Guacamayas, where it was a lifer for our local guide. Also noted in a mixed flock at Bonampak. Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus Uncommon in rainforest. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Uncommon but widespread. Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Great views of a pair trading off at nest hole at Calakmul. Uncommon but widespread. FURNARIIDS (incl. WOODCREEPERS): Furnariidae

H Rufous-breasted Spinetail^ Synallaxis erythrothorax Heard at Bonampak. Plain Xenops Xenops minutus A common member of understory flocks at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina Point-blank views of a couple attending ant swarms at Bonampak. Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa A couple attending antswarms at Calakmul. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus Uncommon and widespread in rainforest. Wedge-billed Woodcreeper

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Glyphorynchus spirurus This tiny woodcreeper was noted at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae Seen at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Ivory-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus flavigaster Common and widespread in varied forest. Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii A couple seen in the Lacandón. TYPICAL ANTBIRDS: Thamnophilidae Great Antshrike Taraba major One obliging male along the airstrip at Bonampak. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Common and widespread in second growth and rainforest edge. Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis Large, roving groups formed the core of mixed-species understory flocks at Bonampak. Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina Incredibly close views of a pair at an antswarm at Bonampak. Common in the Lacandón. ANTTHRUSHES: Formicariidae Mexican [Black-faced] Antthrush^ Formicarius [analis] moniliger One male was seen in primary rainforest at Bonampak. Also heard at Yaxchilán.

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TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: Tyrannidae Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet Ornithion semiflavum Seen very well from the top of a temple at Yaxchilán. Also heard at Calakmul. Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe Common in drier forest. Also heard at Bonampak. Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata Seen at Bonampak. Caribbean Elaenia Elaenia martinica Very nice views of this rather dull species were obtained on Cozumel. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus Common at Las Guacamayas. Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus Uncommon in the Lacandón. Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare Uncommon but widespread. Noted on 5 days. Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Common at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Otherwise uncommon. Stub-tailed Spadebill Platyrinchus cancrominus Usually hard to see, spadebills were incredibly abundant in the Lacandón this trip. Morning tallies included 10 at Bonampak and 22 at Las Guacamayas.

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Royal Flycatcher Onychorhynchus coronatus Uncommon in rainforest and edge. One obliging female let us approach very closely along the airstrip at Yaxchilán. Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius A few with mixed-species flocks in the Lacandón. Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus A couple at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Empidonax flaviventris Common at Bonampak. Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus Common in drier forest. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Uncommon but conspicuous near Río Lagartos and in the Usumacinta marshes. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Uncommon but widespread and very vocal. Noted on 7 days. Rufous Mourner Rhytipterna holerythra Uncommon in the Lacandón. We had nice views at Bonampak. Yucatán Flycatcher^ (Y) Myiarchus yucatanensis Great views of a pair attending an antswarm at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer

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Ubiquitous. Great Crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus Uncommon. Noted on 3 days. Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus A handful were seen at Calakmul. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Conspicuous resident of edge habitat, especially near water. Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Common throughout. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Common throughout. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Abundant. Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii This stouter-billed relative of Tropical Kingbird was also abundant. Scissor-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus forficatus One perched up on a wire between Río Lagartos and Tizimín. Not regularly found in the area. Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Common in the Usumacinta marshes.

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genera INCERTAE SEDIS Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdina Easily seen at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Awesome song!

H Speckled Mourner Laniocera rufescens Heard at Yaxchilán. Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus Conspicuous at fruit trees at the Bonampak and Yaxchilán ruins. Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae Seen at Palenque and Bonampak, where an all-gray male was studied at length. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata A handful were seen eating fruit at Bonampak. Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor Seen well at Bonampak on both visits. COTINGAS: Cotingidae Rufous Piha Lipaugus unirufus Uncommon but vocal in the Lacandón. Seen well at bonampak. Explosive song! MANAKINS: Pipridae White-collared Manakin Manacus candei A lek of males was observed at Bonampak. Red-capped Manakin

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Pipra mentalis Two adult males seen very well at Las Guacamayas. VIREOS: Vireonidae White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus Uncommon throughout. “Petén/Maya” Mangrove Vireo Vireo pallens semiflavus Common and vocal in drier forest, including at Calakmul. Cozumel Vireo* (C) Vireo bairdi This handsome Cozumel endemic is uncommon and hard-to-see, but persistence paid off. Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons Uncommon throughout. Blue-headed Vireo Vireo solitarius Uncommon throughout. Yucatán Vireo* (Y) Vireo magister Common on Cozumel. Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps Uncommon at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus Common in drier forest. Also noted at Bonampak. Green Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius pulchellus

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Seen well at Bonampak. Also heard at Las Guacamayas.

H Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Common and vocal near Río Lagartos, but we didn’t try to track down an individual of this widespread population. "Cozumel" Peppershrike Cyclarhis [gujanensis] insularis We saw half a dozen of this distinctive, dull, Cozumel population. CORVIDS: Corvidae Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio Obnoxious, vociferous, and ubiquitous resident of rainforest and edge. Only pale morphs are present this far “south”. Green Jay Cyanocorax [yncas] luxuosus Uncommon in forests throughout. Yucatán Jay* (Y) Cyanocorax yucatanicus We spent a good deal of time with an immense flock of adults and immatures (over 40 birds) at Calakmul. Also noted near Río Lagartos. SWALLOWS: Hirundinidae Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea A small flock near Río Lagartos. Tree Swallow Tachycineta bicolor Abundant near Río Lagartos and in the Usumacinta marshes. Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea

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Common over the Río Usumacinta at Yaxchilán. Also noted at the Usumacinta marshes. Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis Common throughout, including nest-building at Yaxchilán. Ridgway's [N.] Rough-winged Swallow^ Stelgidopteryx [s.] ridgwayi Seemingly common in the Lacandón, but separation from Northern is tricky. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Uncommon in the Usumacinta marshes. WRENS: Troglodytidae Yucatán Wren* (Y) Campylorhynchus yucatanicus Surprisingly common in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. Spot-breasted Wren Thryothorus maculipectus A small family group at Bonampak. "White-browed" Wren^ (Y) Thryothorus [ludovicianus] albinucha Seen well at Felipe Carillo Puerto. "Southern" House Wren Troglodytes aedon musculus Resident at the hotel in Frontera Corozal. Cozumel Wren* (C) Troglodytes beani An uncommon but loud skulker. We managed a few satisfactory glimpses. Sounds nothing like a regular House Wren. White-bellied Wren^ Uropsila leucogastra

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Nice views of a bird crawling up the vines along a treetrunk near Felipe Carillo Puerto. White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta Abundant in the Lacandón. Twenty-two were noted one morning at Bonampak. GNATCATCHERS & GNATWRENS: Polioptilidae Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Fabulous views of an individual that lingered near an antswarm at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also common at Bonampak. Blue-gray Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea Abundant in drier forest. Uncommon in the Lacandón. "Cozumel" Gnatcatcher* (C) Polioptila [c.] cozumelae We had nice views of this distinctive taxon, which has very dusky underparts.

H Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea Heard at Yaxchilán. THRUSHES: Turdidae Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina Common in rainforest understory. Dozens on the road at Calakmul. Clay-colored Thrush (Robin) Turdus grayi See Wood Thrush. MIMIDS: Mimidae Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis

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Common in rainforest and edge. Black Catbird^ (Y) Melanoptila glabrirostris Two seen at antswarms near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also abundant on Cozumel. Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Abundant in open areas. NEW WORLD WARBLERS: Parulidae Blue-winged Warbler Vermivora cyanoptera A couple at Calakmul. Northern Parula Parula americana Uncommon throughout. "Golden" Warbler Dendroica p. petechia group Common on Cozumel. Yellow Warbler Dendroica p. aestivia group A few in the Usumacinta marshes. "Mangrove" Warbler Dendroica p. erithachorides group Noted in the mangroves of the Ría Lagartos. Chestnut-sided Warbler Dendroica pensylvanica Uncommon in the Lacandón. Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia Common in rainforest.

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Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens Uncommon throughout. Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia Uncommon throughout. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Common in rainforest. Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorum Noted at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Swainson's Warbler Limnothlypis swainsonii One attending an ant swarm at Calakmul—a great place to see this species. Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla Uncommon in open rainforest understory. Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis Uncommon and widespread near still water. Kentucky Warbler Oporornis formosus Great views of a male at an ant swarm at Bonampak. Also noted elsewhere. Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas Common in the Usumacinta marshes. Gray-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis poliocephala

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We tracked one down by its Blue Grosbeak-like song and had nice views of him in an old field near Río Lagartos. Also noted in the Usumacinta marshes. Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina Common in rainforest. Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla Uncommon in the Lacandón. Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus Nice views of a pair at Bonampak. Uncommon in the Lacandón. Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens Seen in edge habitat at Las Guacamayas and Bonampak. genus INCERTAE SEDIS "Common" Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Small numbers in the Lacandón, especially at a flowering bottlebush-like vine. "Cozumel" Bananaquit Coereba [f.] caboti Common on Cozumel. Longer-billed and more brightly colored than its mainland cousin. TANAGERS: Thraupidae Gray-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata A close encounter with a small group of these along a stream at Las Guacamayas. I’ve still never seen one at an antswarm in Mexico.

H Black-throated Shrike-Tanager^ Lanio aurantius Heard 3 separate days in the Lacandón.

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Passerini's Tanager Ramphocelus passerinii One female at Las Guacamayas. Western Spindalis Spindalis zena A handful feeding on figs on Cozumel. The male were stunning. The females, not so much. Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Common in rainforest, edge, and towns. Yellow-winged Tanager^ Thraupis abbas Common in rainforest, edge, and towns. Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata We saw this stunning bird at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Seen on two different days at Bonampak. Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus A few feeding in the bottlebrush-like vine with Bananaquits and Green Honeycreepers at Bonampak. genus INCERTAE SEDIS "Eastern" Grayish Saltator Saltator c. coerulescens Uncommon in edge habitat. Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus This retiring species was uncommon in the Lacandón.

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Black-headed Saltator Saltator a. atriceps The Buff-throated Saltator’s loud and surly older cousin is common in rainforest and edge. EMBERIZIDS: Emberizids Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina We saw a flock alongside the road in the Usumacinta marshes. Also heard in an old field near Felipe Carillo Puerto. White-collared Seedeater Sporophila [t.] morelleti Common in open, rank, weedy habitats. "Cozumel" Grassquit* (C) Tiaris olivaceus intermedia Abundant but local in weedy areas. Males have greatly reduced black on the underparts compared to mainland birds. Grassland Yellow-finch Sicalis luteola Common in the Usumacinta marshes. Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris Seen well at Las Guacamayas. Green-backed Sparrow Arremonops chloronotus A cooperative pair near Felipe Carillo Puerto. Also heard at Bonampak. CARDINALIDS: Cardinalidae Rose-throated Tanager^ (Y) Piranga roseogularis Uncommon at Felipe Carillo Puerto, where a female came in to an antswarm. Males were seen near there also.

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Summer Tanager Piranga rubra Common in rainforest. Western Tanager Piranga ludoviciana One adult male eating figs over the Labyrinth at Yaxchilán. White-winged Tanager Piranga leucoptera A couple came in to a fruiting fig at the upper temple at Yaxchilán. Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Uncommon at ant swarms. Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda Ubiquitous. Almost every antswarm was attended by a small group. Twenty-seven were noted one day at Yaxchilán. Black-faced Grosbeak Caryothraustes poliogaster Flocks seen both days at Bonampak. Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis Common in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus Uncommon and widespread. Gray-throated Chat^ (Y) Granatellus sallaei Common in drier forest. Every antswarm at Felipe Carillo Puerto and Calakmul had at least one in attendance. We saw a range of plumages, from relatively dull females to subdued porcelain pink teenage boys and vivid rose-breasted adult males.

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Blue Seedeater Amaurospiza concolor One female feeding with Passerina buntings along the runway at Bonampak. Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides Uncommon in disturbed habitat at Bonampak and Las Guacamayas. "Eastern" Blue Bunting^ Cyanocompsa p. parellina Prolonged views of a splendid adult male eating bamboo seeds at Calakmul. Also seen at Felipe Carillo Puerto. Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea Uncommon in open habitats. Noted two days. Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea Abundant in edge habitat. Painted Bunting Passerina ciris One adult male feeding with Indigo Buntings and a Blue Seedeater along the runway at Bonampak. ICTERIDS: Icteridae Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus Noted at the Usumacinta marshes. Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna Noted at the Usumacinta marshes. Melodious Blackbird Dives dives

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Abundant resident of rainforest and edge. Close looks at a couple antswarms. Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Abundant everywhere but pristine forest. Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus Numerous near Río Lagartos and in the Usumacinta marshes. Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas Small numbers feeding at flowers at Bonampak and Felipe Carillo Puerto. Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius Small numbers seen at flowers in varied habitats. Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus Common in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. Orange Oriole* (Y) Icterus auratus Great views of multiple birds in thorn forest near Río Lagartos. Altamira Oriole Icterus gularis Common in drier forest near Río Lagartos and Felipe Carillo Puerto. Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula Widespread, usually at flowers. Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus Decent views of one along the runway at Yaxchilán. Also heard at Las Guacamayas. Montezuma Oropendola

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Psarocolius montezuma Conspicuous resident of rainforest and edge. Amazing song! FINCHES: Fringillidae Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis Small flocks noted at Bonampak and near Río Lagartos. Yellow-throated Euphonia Euphonia hirundinacea Common in rainforest and edge. Olive-backed Euphonia Euphonia gouldi One or more seen daily in the Lacandón. OLD WORLD SPARROWS: Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common in towns.