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1 Kainuu, Eastern Central Finland – May 2015 Report by Sjef Öllers This is a short follow-up report on my solo visit in 2013; this time my wife hoped to see wolf, bear and wolverine. The mammalwatching was successful with excellent sightings of all three target species; a welcome bonus was a sighting of a male forest reindeer. Birding highlights included a spectacular black grouse lek with at least 21 males, Northern hawk owl, willow grouse, hazel grouse, and capercaillie. Brown Bear at the Caravan Hide

trip report Finland - May 2015 - Sjef Ollers - Mammal Watchingmammalwatching.com/Palearctic/Otherreports/SO Finland 2015.pdf · This%is%a%short%follow-up%report%on%my%solo%visit%in%2013;

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Page 1: trip report Finland - May 2015 - Sjef Ollers - Mammal Watchingmammalwatching.com/Palearctic/Otherreports/SO Finland 2015.pdf · This%is%a%short%follow-up%report%on%my%solo%visit%in%2013;

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Kainuu,'Eastern'Central'Finland'–'May'2015'Report'by'Sjef!Öllers!'This%is%a%short%follow-up%report%on%my%solo%visit%in%2013;%this%time%my%wife%hoped%to%see%wolf,%bear%and%wolverine.%The%mammalwatching%was%successful%with%excellent%sightings%of%all%three%target%species;%a%welcome%bonus%was%a%sighting%of%a%male%forest%reindeer.%Birding%highlights%included%a%spectacular%black%grouse%lek%with%at%least%21%males,%Northern%hawk%owl,%willow%grouse,%hazel%grouse,%and%capercaillie.%%'

'Brown'Bear'at'the'Caravan'Hide'

'' '

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%Female'Cappercaillie'

''Itinerary'%May%13%% Flights%Amsterdam-Helsinki%+%Helsinki-Kuopio%and%taxi%to%Kajaani%% % Drive%to%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%May%14%% Kuikka%Base%Camp/Hides%May%15%% Kuikka%Base%Camp/Hides%May%16%% Kuikka%Base%Camp/Hides%May%17%% Kuikka%Base%Camp/Hides%May%18%% Drive%back%from%Kuikka%to%Kajaani%Airport%% % Flights%Kajaani-Helsinki%and%Helsinki-%Amsterdam%'%

%First'bear'and'(part'of)'the'Black'Grouse'Lek' '

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General'Information''In%2013%I%had%a%great%time%at%Kuikka%Camp%and%especially%in%the%so-called%Paradise%wildlife%viewing%hide%(see%report%on%Mammalwatching.com%or%Cloudbirders.com).%After%hearing%my%enthusiastic%stories%about%Kuikka%my%wife%was%keen%to%visit%this%place%as%well%and%this%year%we%finally%had%time%for%a%short%trip%to%Finland%and%try%our%luck%and%see%wolf,%bear%and%wolverine%in%a%single%visit.%Since%my%last%visit%things%have%changed%at%Kuikka%in%the%sense%that%the%main%mammalwatching%hides%are%now%located%in%a%different%area.%The%permit%that%Lassi%Rautainen%and%his%family%had%for%the%original%concession%area%had%not%been%renewed%by%the%border%control%authorities%so%recently%a%new%permit%for%an%area%several%kilometres%north%of%the%original%area%has%been%issued%to%them.%%%Currently%there%are%two%main%mammalwatching%areas,%but%there%are%plans%to%expand.%Just%like%in%the%original%concession%area,%the%Paradise%hides%are%set%up%along%the%edge%of%a%large%marshland%and%the%Caravan%hides%are%in%a%forest%area.%They%also%have%hides/tents%for%a%number%of%bird%species%including%capercaillie,%whooper%swan,%bean%goose%and%sometimes%owls.%%

%View'over'the'left'corner'of'the'swamp'from'the'Paradise'Hides'

%Some%of%the%animals%that%used%to%visit%the%hides%in%the%former%concession%area%have%discovered%the%new%feeding%sites%and%visit%regularly%but%new%animals%have%started%eating%from%the%carcasses%as%well,%but%some%of%them%are%still%very%wary.%Despite%some%differences%between%the%old%sites%and%the%new%sites,%my%impression%was%that%the%mammalwatching%and%photography%opportunities%are%equally%good.%%%

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The%new%Paradise%hides%overlook%a%much%larger%open%swamp%than%the%area%I%had%visited%in%2013%and%(at%least%this%year)%the%new%area%had%the%bonus%of%having%an%active%black%grouse%lek%in%the%middle%of%the%swamp.%The%lek%was%about%200–300%meters%from%the%hides,%so%a%little%too%far%for%photography,%but%it%was%sensational%to%see%the%males%displaying%in%full%swing%although%a%scope%is%very%useful%for%close-up%views.%The%lek%site%is%in%use%from%about%mid-April%to%mid-May.%The%last%week%of%April%and%the%first%week%of%May%are%probably%the%peak%period%to%witness%the%most%spectacular%displays%of%the%grouse.%On%our%last%day%in%the%Paradise%hide%the%activity%of%the%males%was%already%much%lower%and%less%spectacular%than%on%the%first%day.%%%%%The%Paradise%hides%consist%of%one%large%well-equipped%hide%(the%actual%Paradise%hide)%and%several%smaller%1–3%person%pro/photographer%hides%that%are%still%fairly%comfortable%although%unsurprisingly%space%is%at%a%premium.%There%are%pros%and%cons%to%being%in%one%hide%or%another%in%terms%of%viewing%angle,%photo%opportunities,%etc.%but%in%my%opinion%in%the%end%it%doesn’t%matter%that%much%which%hide%you%get.%%%

%Early%morning%at%the%Paradise%Hides%(the%main%hide%is%the%centre%hide)%

%The%Caravan%hides%consist%of%the%main%hide%(indeed%an%old%caravan)%and%two%smaller%hides.%Away%from%the%main%area%there%is%also%a%tiny%hide%near%a%small%pond.%The%main%hide%in%the%forest%is%located%on%a%slope%so%from%the%main%hide%you%look%upward%into%a%small%arena-like%area%cornered%left%and%right%by%the%two%smaller%hides%and%a%series%of%rock%at%the%top%of%the%slope.%Beyond%the%top%of%slope%there%is%a%plateau-like%area%and%most%animals%enter%the%feeding%area%via%that%plateau%area.%A%bit%of%a%disadvantage%of%the%main%hide%is%that%you%have%a%partly%obscured%view%of%the%plateau%area%and%shy%animals%often%stay%behind%or%near%the%rocky%area%at%the%top%of%the%slope.%From%the%main%hide%it%was%therefore%difficult%to%get%good%pictures%of%the%shier%animals%that%stay%on%the%plateau%or%behind%the%rocks.%The%benefit%of%this,%however,%may%be%that%shy%animals%feel%secure%enough%to%come%up%to%the%carcasses%at%all.%However,%if%animals%

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are%confident%enough%to%enter%the%“arena”%area%in%front%of%the%hides,%then%great%photo%opportunities%are%guaranteed%(distance%between%you%and%the%animals%is%less%than%15%metres%in%the%“arena”).%The%two%smaller%hides%are%closer%to%the%top%of%the%slope%and%probably%have%better%views%of%(parts%of)%the%plateau%area.%However,%these%two%hides%are%very%close%to%where%the%animals%usually%show%up%so%it%would%be%imperative%that%people%are%very%quiet%and%don’t%make%sudden%movements.%And%from%some%angles%in%the%smaller%hides%the%animals%will%be%in%front%of%the%other%smaller%hide,%something%that%is%unlikely%to%happen%from%the%main%hide.%%%

%The'actual'Caravan'Hide'(left)'and'the'two'pro'hides'(right)'in'the'forest'

%Just%like%in%2013%everything%was%well%organized%at%Kuikka%(website:%articmedia.fi),%the%food%is%good,%great%hospitality%and%easy%going%atmosphere,%and%there%is%some%entertainment%directly%around%the%lodge:%bird%feeders%in%front%of%the%main%house,%beavers%are%sometimes%seen%on%the%lake%next%at%the%base%camp,%and%good%birding%both%on%foot%from%the%lodge%and%short%driving%distances%away.%If%you%stay%at%the%hides%the%routine%is%still%the%same:%at%4%pm%there%is%a%communal%dinner%and%around%5%pm%you%drive%to%one%of%the%hides.%They%try%to%give%every%group%of%clients%a%hide%of%their%own.%The%next%morning%usually%between%8%and%9%am%you%are%picked%up%and%driven%back%to%the%base%camp%to%have%breakfast.%%%Weather''When%we%drove%into%the%Kuikka%area%it%was%clear%that%there%was%more%snow%this%year%than%in%2013.%When%I%asked%Lassi%Rautainen’s%son%Sami,%he%told%me%that%that%they%had%had%a%lot%of%snow%in%early%spring%this%year.%They%had%been%using%snow%scooters%until%the%week%before%we%came.%Then%the%temperate%went%up%and%it%rained%non-stop%for%several%days%in%a%row%and%all%the%snow%had%disappeared%within%4-5%days,%which%made%the%smaller%unpaved%roads%in%the%area%very%soft%and%water-saturated.%%%The%weather%was%very%stable%during%our%stay%–%about%5-7%°C%in%daytime%with%half%of%the%time%sunny/half%cloudy%conditions%and%the%other%half%low%clouds%with%rain%or%showers.%At%night%it%was%typically%between%–3%and%+3%°C.%The%combination%of%high%humidity,%relatively%low%temperatures%and%sometimes%a%cold%wind%made%us%wear%thermal%underwear,%down%jackets%and%gloves%in%the%hides%in%the%middle%of%the%night%

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but%we%didn’t%turn%on%the%heaters%because%they%make%you%(or%us%at%least)%way%too%sleepy.%%%%%

%The%dominant%male%at%the%Caravan%Hide%

%%Day@to@Day'Accounts'%May'13:'Arrival'''Finnair%made%a%mess%of%our%flights%this%time%and%all%flights%were%late.%They%had%changed%the%flight%schedules%several%times%and%only%a%few%weeks%before%our%departure%the%connecting%time%between%our%two%incoming%flights%had%been%reduced%from%2.15%hours%to%45%minutes,%and%of%course%this%went%wrong%with%delays%during%the%take-off%in%Amsterdam%and%getting%landing%permission%in%Helsinki:%we%missed%our%connecting%flight%to%Kajaani%by%5%minutes%or%so.%Rather%annoying%that%they%didn’t%wait%for%us.%%We%had%already%anticipated%that%things%might%go%wrong%and%luckily%Finnair%had%the%same%plan%B%as%we%did.%So%they%flew%us%to%Kuopio%and%then%organized%a%private%taxi%to%Kajaani,%where%we%were%to%pick%up%our%rental%car.%If%you%ever%consider%taking%a%long-distance%taxi%in%Finland:%Kuopio%airport%to%Kajaani%airport%costs%300%Euros.%After%missing%our%connecting%flight%we%called%Hertz%how%we%could%now%pick%up%our%rental%car%(since%we%would%get%to%Kajaani%outside%office%hours%and%the%airport%would%be%

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closed%as%well);%the%arrangements%they%made%were%excellent%and%all%went%fine.%Good%and%pragmatic%service%by%Hertz.%%%Around%21.30%we%were%finally%at%Kajaani%airport%and%then%made%the%2.5-hour%drive%to%Kuikka.%Late%evening%is%a%great%time%to%drive:%many%arctic%hares%on%route%and%roding%woodcocks%above%the%forest%edge%along%the%road.%The%larger%grouse%species%were%also%very%active%at%this%time%of%day.%We%also%saw%a%larger%mid-sized%owl%fly%across%the%road%around%dusk,%which%must%have%been%an%Ural%owl.%%%

'Mew'Gulls'

%May'14:'First'night'at'the'Paradise'Hides''%We%spent%our%first%night%in%the%Paradise%hide%in%the%hope%that%we%could%“tackle%the%wolf”%on%the%first%night%and%then%focus%on%the%wolverine.%Looking%at%the%sightings%board%at%the%base%camp%the%sightings%at%Paradise%hide%in%the%previous%week%had%been%mouth-watering%(“four%wolves,%one%wolverine,%and%forest%reindeer”%or%“four%wolves,%two%bears,%one%golden%eagle%and%one%white-tailed%eagle”%and%a%few%more%nights%like%that.%However,%in%the%days%before%we%came%it%had%been:%“one%bear”,%“only%black%grouse,%no%mammals”,%etc.%%%Around%five%in%the%afternoon%we%(plus%another%couple%and%a%group%of%three%people)%headed%to%the%Paradise%hide.%All%three%groups%got%their%own%hide%and%as%chance%would%have%it,%we%ended%up%in%the%same%hide%that%I%had%two%years%ago.%The%first%hours%in%the%early%evening%I%had%a%great%time%watching%the%displaying%black%grouse.%Around%20.45%a%bear%showed%up%at%the%far%end%of%the%swamp%and%then%slowly%made%its%way%to%the%carcass%at%our%end%of%the%swamp.%This%bear%was%shy%and%always%came%

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in%quickly%to%rip%a%large%chunk%from%the%carcass%and%then%went%back%in%the%forest.%This%continued%until%about%midnight.%A%good%start,%but%unfortunately%not%much%happened%during%the%“night”%(i.e.,%the%twilight%between%midnight%and%2%am)%and%in%the%morning.%I%was%a%bit%surprised%that%no%eagles%had%shown%up%and%this%would%remain%so%the%other%nights.%%

%

%The'first'bear'at'the'Paradise'Hide'on'May'14'

%May'15'and'16:'The'Caravan'Hides''%We%spent%the%next%two%nights%in%the%Caravan%hides.%A%much%more%intimate%setting;%if%the%animals%show%up,%they%are%typically%5–30%meters%away.%The%carcasses%are%only%

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about%10-15%metres%from%the%hide,%but%well%hidden%so%the%animals%have%to%make%an%effort%to%obtain%the%meat.%In%front%of%the%main%hide%there%is%also%a%bird%feeder%that%during%our%stay%attracted%great%spotted%woodpecker,%siskin,%chaffinch,%great%tit%and%occasionally%willow%tit.%Only%once%a%common%redstart%showed%up%in%front%of%the%hide%to%hunt%insects.%%%

%

'Bears'at'the'Caravan'Hide'

%On%the%first%evening%on%our%walk%to%the%Caravan%hide%we%ended%up%in%a%sleet%shower.%I%entered%the%hide%first%and%put%my%gear%and%sleeping%bag%on%the%bed%and%glanced%outside%for%a%second.%To%my%surprise%a%bear%was%already%there!%I%whispered%“there%is%

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a%bear!”.%Mikka%and%my%wife%looked%at%me%with%a%mixture%of%surprise%and%disbelief,%but%they%quickly%joined%me%in%the%caravan%to%see%for%themselves.%We%had%been%chatting%all%the%way%up%to%the%hide%so%maybe%the%sleet%shower%had%muted%the%sound%of%us%talking%but%I%am%still%surprised%that%the%bear%did%not%seem%to%have%heard%us.%Mikka%waited%for%five%minutes%and%then%sneaked%out%of%the%hide.%The%bear%didn’t%run%away.%Only%after%the%sleet%shower%had%stopped,%the%bear%suddenly%started%sniffing%the%air%and%we%could%see%him%getting%more%restless.%He%must%have%caught%our%scent%as%he%started%sniffing%the%air%intensely%and%then%ran%off%at%great%speed.%After%all%this%excitement%we%finally%installed%ourselves%and%for%a%couple%of%hours%nothing%happened.%In%the%early%evening%a%relatively%small%and%shy%bear%showed%up%at%the%far%end%of%the%viewing%area.%She%was%nibbling%away%on%one%of%the%carcasses%partly%obscured%by%a%large%rock%but%she%was%never%quite%at%ease.%At%some%point%she%moved%away%from%the%carcass%and%also%started%sniffing%the%air%intensely%and%then%ran%off%like%crazy%to%the%right.%A%minute%later%or%so,%a%much%larger%bear%suddenly%came%racing%through%the%forest%from%the%left%(ignoring%the%food%completely)%and%ran%in%the%direction%of%the%first%bear.%After%about%15%minutes%the%second%bear%returned%and%now%headed%directly%for%the%pig%carcass%and%then%stayed%at%or%near%the%carcass%for%most%of%the%evening.%%Around%midnight%I%made%several%power%naps%but%looked%outside%every%10%minutes%or%so.%Around%1%am%I%saw%a%bear%even%larger%than%the%second%one%very%close%to%the%hide.%I%watched%him%for%several%minutes%and%then%he%disappeared%again.%By%now%I%was%really%tired%and%was%struggling%to%stay%awake%and%my%wife%was%fast%asleep.%Around%2.30%am%(after%obviously%having%dozed%off%again)%I%had%another%perfunctory%look%outside:%Etron'Fou'Leloublan!!!!!%Illuminati%will%know%that%Etron%Fou%Leloublan%were%an%intriguing%French%avant-garde%rock%band%from%the%late%70s/early%80s%with%the%puzzling%band%name%“Crazy%shit,%the%white%wolf”,%but%wow%there%was%indeed%the%white%wolf%radiating%in%the%subdued%green%and%browns%of%the%forest!%%

%Video'still'of'the'wolf'and'bear'3'at'the'Caravan'Hide%

%I%was%worried%that%the%wolf%would%run%away%at%the%slightest%movement%so%I%tried%to%make%no%sudden%movements%but%my%wife%was%so%deep%asleep%that%I%really%had%to%

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shake%her%and%shout-whisper%“there%is%a%wolf”%at%least%four%times.%All%went%well%and%we%managed%to%install%ourselves%without%scaring%the%wolf%away.%In%the%beginning%I%didn’t%take%any%pictures%and%we%just%watched%this%magnificent%animal%slowly%gaining%confidence%to%eat%from%the%carcass%that%was%furthest%from%the%hide.%Luckily%my%wife%got%some%video%footage%of%the%wolf%by%filming%through%one%of%the%viewing%windows.%The%wolf%stayed%very%wary%and%never%really%came%out%in%the%open.%After%the%wolf%had%been%around%for%quite%some%time%he%suddenly%became%nervous,%but%we%were%clearly%not%the%cause.%Shortly%after,%bear%2%showed%up%again%and%chased%the%wolf%off%the%carcass.%For%a%while%the%bear%was%feeding%on%the%carcass%while%the%wolf%was%watching%him%some%10%metres%behind%him.%Brilliant%stuff.%Unfortunately,%I%could%not%really%take%pictures%because%the%camera%position%was%too%low%to%get%both%animals%in%the%same%shot%and%releasing%the%camera%from%the%ball%head%would%definitely%have%chased%both%away.%After%the%wolf%left,%the%bear%kept%feeding%for%a%while,%but%then%left%too.%I%was%convinced%that%the%wolf%would%not%show%up%again,%but%around%3.45%am%he/she%was%suddenly%back.%The%wolf%was%a%bit%more%at%ease%now%and%I%could%make%a%few%record%shots.%The%wolf%stayed%for%about%10%minutes%and%then%left%again.%During%the%remainder%of%the%morning%not%much%happened,%but%what%a%night!%The%couple%that%stayed%at%the%Paradise%hide%had%first%seen%two%wolves%and%then%a%different%single%wolf%during%the%two%hours%of%twilight%at%the%far%end%of%the%swamp,%but%the%wolves%never%came%to%the%carcasses.%%%

%Typical'view'of'the'wolf'in'the'forest:'crouched'and'wary'

%Our%second%night%in%the%hide%started%off%a%bit%quieter,%but%in%the%early%evening%bear%2%and%3%of%the%previous%night%showed%up%on%and%off.%Bear%3%(unlike%2)%was%very%bold%and%completely%unconcerned%of%moving%around%in%front%of%the%hides.%He%was%the%only%bear%that%came%into%the%little%arena%in%front%of%the%hides.%At%some%point%bear%2%was%feeding%left%of%our%hide%and%bear%3%to%the%right%with%only%ten%metres%between%them.%Bear%3%was%clearly%the%dominant%one%and%there%was%a%strange%uneasy%peace%between%them.%Eventually%bear%2%left%and%a%minute%later%bear%3%left%too,%seemingly%in%the%other%direction,%but%shortly%after%bear%3%came%running%across%the%plateau%beyond%the%

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feeding%area%and%headed%in%the%direction%of%bear%2.%A%minute%later%we%could%hear%several%loud%growls%and%other%disturbing%sounds%of%what%must%have%been%a%pretty%intense%fight.%After%a%while%bear%3%returned%to%the%feeding%area%and%after%this%event%we%didn’t%see%bear%2%anymore%around%the%hides.%Bear%3%kept%coming%back%to%the%feeding%area%for%short%feeding%frenzies%all%evening,%but%around%midnight%his%visits%became%less%frequent%and%around%1%am%he%visited%for%the%last%time.%It%was%again%particularly%difficult%to%stay%awake%during%the%twilight%hours,%but%I%forced%myself%to%stay%seated%although%I%sometimes%was%in%some%delirious%half-sleep%state.%Early%in%the%morning%(around%2.45%am)%I%suddenly%saw%something%move%in%the%back;%this%bouncing%brown%ball%was%not%a%bear!!%The%wolverine%had%finally%shown%up.%I%quickly%woke%up%my%wife.%The%wolverine%only%stayed%for%about%ten%minutes,%but%did%all%the%hyperactive%frenzy%that%you%would%expect%from%a%wolverine%and%also%came%bouncing%into%the%arena%area%for%several%minutes%and%put%on%a%nice%show%by%walking%across%the%rocks%with%a%rib%bone%in%his%mouth%and%then%stopped%on%top%of%one%of%the%rocks%still%holding%the%bone%proudly%in%his%mouth%–%quite%funny.%After%the%wolverine%had%left,%an%intense%tiredness%kicked%in%and%around%4%am%I%curled%up%in%the%sleeping%bag%and%slept%until%about%7.45.%My%wife%stayed%up%a%bit%longer%but%at%some%point%the%humid%cold%made%her%retreat%to%the%sleeping%bag%as%well.%%%%%May'17:'Paradise'Hides''%Our%second%night%in%the%Paradise%hide,%absolutely%nothing%of%interest%seemed%to%happen%for%hours%and%hours.%No%mammals,%no%eagles,%no%interesting%waders%and%even%the%black%grouse%at%the%lek%only%gave%half-hearted%displays%and%seemed%more%interested%in%eating%than%displaying.%So%just%when%we%were%about%to%leave%and%walk%back%to%the%car%a%large%brown%bear%showed%up%from%the%area%where%the%car%was%parked.%Not%a%good%time%to%leave%the%hide%then.%After%we%had%waited%for%the%bear%to%finish%eating%from%the%carcass,%we%had%almost%packed%up%when%we%saw%an%animal%approach%in%the%far%left%corner%of%the%swamp:%it%was%a%male%forest%reindeer!%The%animal%was%very%wary%and%constantly%looking%in%the%direction%of%where%the%bear%had%gone.%I%am%not%sure%whether%it%could%see%the%bear%or%smell%that%the%bear%had%been%around.%Unfortunately,%my%camera%was%still%on%the%ballhead%and%I%didn’t%want%to%chase%the%reindeer%away%by%making%noise,%so%we%just%watched%the%reindeer’s%nervous%antics%for%several%minutes%but%in%the%end%it%ran%off%at%high%speed%in%the%opposite%direction%of%where%the%bear%was.%Because%one%of%Sami’s%children%was%ill%we%had%driven%to%the%hide%ourselves,%so%it%was%just%the%two%of%us%on%the%drive%back.%Only%after%driving%a%kilometre%or%so,%a%large%wolf%suddenly%crossed%the%road.%Wow!%We%raced%to%the%spot%where%it%had%disappeared%into%the%forest%but%of%course%no%sign%of%the%wolf.%We%had%barely%recovered%from%the%reindeer%and%wolf%adrenaline%rushes%when%we%saw%a%bear%on%the%road%in%the%distance.%The%bear%seemed%to%turn%around%and%walk%away%but%we%stopped%the%car%immediately%and%turned%off%the%engine.%This%helped.%The%bear%seemed%a%little%indecisive%and%made%a%360°%turn%but%then%decided%he%was%going%to%continue%in%our%direction.%He%walked%several%tens%of%metres%in%our%direction%but%then%slowly%walked%into%the%forest.%Undoubtedly%my%most%amazing%30%minutes%of%mammal%watching%in%Europe.%Sami%told%us%that%it%was%rare%to%see%either%wolf%or%bear%away%from%the%hides.%And%seeing%a%bear%on%the%road%without%running%away%immediately%was%even%rarer!%%%%

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%May'18:'Back'Home''%The%drive%from%Kuikka%back%to%Kajaani%airport%was%pretty%eventful%with%a%female%moose,%an%ermine,%a%male%capercaillie%next%to%the%road%and%good%views%of%a%goshawk%in%flight.%%%Daytime'Excursions'%Our%initial%goal%was%to%visit%the%beautiful%forests%of%the%Elimyssalo%nature%reserve,%but%this%proved%impossible%with%our%tiny%Ford%Fiesta%(although%it%would%have%been%relatively%straightforward%with%a%4×4).%We%tried%both%access%roads%from%Kuikka%but%both%roads%still%had%a%lot%of%stretches%covered%with%snow%and%ice.%The%shorter%snow/ice%stretches%could%only%just%be%negotiated%with%our%car,%but%after%almost%getting%stuck%on%a%longer%stretch%we%gave%up.%One%also%had%to%be%really%careful%not%to%get%stuck%in%water-saturated%soggy%road%stretches%and%especially%on%the%soft%shoulder%of%the%road.%So%we%just%tried%any%of%the%smaller%roads%in%the%area%until%our%Fiesta%couldn’t%go%any%further%and%then%walked%along%the%road%or%into%the%forest%from%there.%Capercaillie%and%black%grouse%were%regularly%encountered.%Good%sightings%were%a%couple%of%willow%grouse%(uncommon%in%the%area)%and%a%pair%of%hazel%grouse.%We%also%had%good%views%of%a%small%group%of%Bohemian%waxwings%along%the%road.%Best%bird%sighting%for%me%was%a%Northern%hawk%owl,%which%showed%well%the%first%time,%but%flew%off%almost%immediately%the%second%time.%The%hawk%owls%like%the%edges%of%clear-cut%areas,%regrowth%areas%or%single%trees%or%small%group%of%trees%in%clear-cut%areas.%Just%check%all%birds%perched%in%those%areas%and%at%some%point%you%might%get%lucky.%We%looked%for%the%owl%four%times%and%found%it%two%times%in%such%areas%only%3-4%kilometres%from%the%base%camp.%Sami%also%took%us%to%a%nice%piece%of%older%forest%to%see%if%we%could%encounter%any%owl%activity,%but%no%luck.%%%

%Willow'grouse'

%%% %

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MAMMAL'LIST''!Note/erratum:'In'the'2013'report'I'wrote'seeing'European'Beaver'Castor'fiber'at'Kuikka.'This'is'wrong.'In'eastern'Finland'one'(exclusively?)'encounters'Canadian'Beaver'Castor'Canadensis'and'the'ones'at'Kuikka'are'the'North'American'variety.'In'Finland'the'European'beaver'has'been'pushed'back'by'its'North'American'cousin'to'the'southwest'corner'of'the'country.''''Red%Squirrel%Sciurus'vulgaris%–%just%one%on%route%%Arctic%Hare%Lepus'timidus%–%about%a%dozen%on%the%main%highway%between%Kuopio%and%Kajaani%and%several%tens%in%all%colour%variations%on%the%route%Kajaani-Kuhmo-Kuikka.%Only%a%few%in%the%Kuikka%area.%[West%European%Hedgehog%Erinaceus'europaeus%–%only%seen%as%a%roadkill]%Gray%Wolf%Canis'lupus%–%one%beautiful%and%very%pale%individual%was%seen%from%the%Caravan%hide;%this%animal%could%be%identified%from%the%wolf%photos%in%one%of%Lassi’s%books%(it%was%born%in%2007).%Wolf%sightings%in%the%forest%are%very%rare,%so%we%were%extremely%lucky.%Then%we%had%an%even%rarer%sighting%of%another%white/pale-coloured%wolf%crossing%the%road%in%the%area%near%the%Paradise%hides.%%%%

%Video'Still'of'the'Wolf'at'the'Caravan'Hide'

%%Brown%Bear%Ursus'arctos%–%one%from%the%Paradise%hide%on%May%14,%three%different%animals%(probably%one%female%and%two%males)%from%the%Caravan%hide%on%May%15,%the%

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same%two%males%from%the%previous%night%on%May%16,%one%male%on%May%17%from%the%Paradise%Hide%was%possibly%again%bear%3%that%we%saw%in%the%Caravan%hide.%On%May%17%we%also%saw%a%largish%bear%on%the%road.%%%

%Bear'3'at'the'Caravan'Hide'

'Ermine%Mustela'erminea%–%one%crossed%the%road%near%Heikkilä%(east%of%Kuhmo),%also%a%roadkill%near%Kuhmo%Wolverine%Gulo'gulo%–%one%seen%from%the%Caravan%hide%%Forest%Reindeer'Rangifer'tarandus%fennicus%–%a%male%seen%from%the%Paradise%hide%Moose%Alces'alces–%a%female%crossed%the%access%road%and%a%neighbouring%swamp%about%6%km%south%of%Kuikka%Base%Camp.%%%

%' ' Record'shot'of'the'moose'and'our'last'bear'sighting'%''% %

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BIRD'LIST''%Whooper%Swan%Cygnus'Cygnus%–%a%handful%of%sightings%en%route%and%twice%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Bean%Goose%Anser'fabalis%–%two%on%the%ground%and%six%in%flight%seen%from%the%Paradise%Hide%on%May%17%Common%Teal%Anas'crecca%–%a%female%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Mallard%Anas'platyrhynchos%–%one%drake%on%the%lake%at%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%Tufted%Duck%Aythya'fuligula%–%about%a%handful%on%lakes%and%marshes%near%Kuikka%Base%Camp%Common%Goldeneye%Bucephala'clangula%–%a%total%of%four%on%lakes%and%marshes%near%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%Hazel%Grouse%Bonasa'bonasia%–%a%male%seen%well%on%the%road%to%Elimyssalo%(and%a%female%in%flight%in%the%same%area)%Black%Grouse%Tetrao'tetrix%–%At%least%15%(mostly%females)%late%at%night%on%the%access%roads%from%Kuhmo%to%Kuikka.%Several%seen%daily%(typically%flushed%only)%on%walks%in%the%Kuikka%area.%A%spectacular%lek%with%13–21%males%and%0–2%females%was%active%in%the%marsh%at%the%Paradise%hides.%%%

%' ''''Male'Capercaillie' ' ' ' '''Black'Grouse'at'night'%Western%Capercaillie%Tetrao'urogallus%–%a%total%of%four%males%and%about%ten%females%seen%on%walks%and%drives%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Willow%Grouse%Lagopus'lagopus%–%a%pair%was%seen%several%kilometres%from%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%Northern%Goshawk%Accipiter'gentilis%–%one%seen%well%in%flight%on%May%18%Common%Buzzard%Buteo'buteo%–%two%in%the%Kuikka%area%and%one%near%Sotkamo%Common%Kestrel%Falco'tinnunculus%–%1-2%daily%in%the%Kuikka%area%and%a%few%on%route%%Eurasian%Hobby%Falco'subbuteo%–two%in%flight%over%a%lake%near%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%Eurasian%Coot%Fulica'atra%–%a%few%en%route%European%Golden%Plover%Pluvialis'apricaria%–%three%from%the%Paradise%hide%on%May%14%Northern%Lapwing%Vanellus'vanellus%–%1-2%from%the%Paradise%hide%and%several%on%route%%Eurasian%Woodcock%Scolopax'rusticola%–%many%seen%in%flight%between%22.00%and%midnight%on%our%drive%to%Kuikka%on%May%13.%One%flushed%on%a%walk%in%the%Kuikka%area.%%%

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Whimbrel%Numenius'phaeopus'–%one%calling%and%flying%around%above%the%swamp%at%Paradise%hide%Eurasian%Curlew%Numenius'arquata%–regular%on%route%Spotted%Redshank%Tringa'erythropus%–%one%from%the%Kuikka%hide%on%May%17%%Common%Greenshank%Tringa'nebularia%–%common%in%the%Kuikka%area,%a%pair%was%constantly%present%in%front%of%the%Paradise%hide%%Wood%Sandpiper%Tringa'glareola%–%four%in%front%of%the%Paradise%hide%on%May%14%%Common%Sandpiper%Actitis'hypoleucos%–%a%few%seen%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Little%Gull%Larus'minutus%–%one%on%a%lake%near%Kuhmo%Black-headed%Gull%Larus'ridibundus%–%common,%seen%daily%Mew%Gull%Larus'canus%–%common,%seen%daily%%Lesser%Black-backed%Gull%Larus'fuscus%–%two%in%the%marsh%at%the%Paradise%hides,%one%checked%out%a%carcass%at%the%Caravan%hides%Herring%Gull%Larus'argentatus%–%regular%sightings%Common%Tern%Sterna'hirundo%–%a%few%on%route%Common%Wood%Pigeon%Columba'palumbus%–%only%a%few%on%route%between%Kuopio%and%Kajaani%[Common%Cuckoo%Cuculus'canorus%–%heard%only%once%on%May%17]%Northern%Hawk-Owl%Surnia'ulula%–%one%(probably%the%same%bird)%seen%twice%a%few%kilometres%north%of%Kuikka%Base%Camp%%[Ural%Owl%Strix'uralensis%–%a%larger%mid-sized%owl%seen%around%dusk%on%May%13%must%have%been%this%species,%but%views%too%short%to%be%sure]%%[Black%Woodpecker%Dryocopus'martius%–%heard%only]%Great%Spotted%Woodpecker%Dendrocopos'major'–%1-2%seen%every%day%at%both%the%hide%areas,%also%1-2%at%the%feeders%in%Kuikka%Base%Camp,%a%few%sightings%in%the%Kuikka%area%on%walks.%%%Tree%Pipit%Anthus'trivialis%–%1-2%daily%White%Wagtail%Motacilla'alba%–%1-3%daily%Bohemian%Waxwing%Bombycilla'garrulus%–%four%on%May%16%and%two%on%May%17%%

%' Bohemian'Waxwing' ' ' ''''Northern'Hawk[Owl'%European%Robin%Erithacus'rubecula%–%only%a%few%sightings%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Common%Redstart%Phoenicurus'phoenicurus%–%three%sightings%in%the%Kuikka%area,%one%on%route%near%Kuhmo%

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[Northern%Wheatear%Oenanthe'oenanthe%–%a%possible%sighting%near%Kuikka,%flushed%bird%but%quite%distant]%Common%Blackbird%Turdus'merula%–%only%a%few%sightings%in%the%Kuikka%area,%more%seen%on%route%Fieldfare%Turdus'pilaris%–%common%Song%Thrush%Turdus'philomelos%–%only%one%sighting%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Redwing%Turdus'iliacus%–%about%10-15%on%route%%Mistle%Thrush%Turdus'viscivorus%–%1-3%daily%Willow%Warbler%Phylloscopus'trochilus%–%three%sightings%in%the%Kuikka%area%[Goldcrest%Regulus'regulus%–%heard%only]%European%Pied%Flycatcher%Ficedula'hypoleuca%–%one%pair%at%Kuikka%Base%Camp,%several%seen%on%walks%in%the%Kuikka%area,%one%pair%east%of%Heikkilä%Willow%Tit%Parus'montanus%–%two%at%Kuika%Base%Camp,%a%few%at%the%Caravan%Hide,%and%a%few%on%walks%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Blue%Tit%Parus'caeruleus%–%a%few%on%walks%in%the%Kuikka%area%Great%Tit%Parus'major%–%fairly%common%in%the%Kuikka%area%%Common%Magpie%Pica'pica%–%common%in%urban%and%rural%areas,%fairly%common%in%forest%areas%Jackdaw%Corvus'monedula%–%common%in%urban%and%rural%areas,%scarce%or%absent%in%forest%areas%Hooded%Crow%Corvus'corone'cornix%–%a%few%daily%Common%Raven%Corvus'corax%–%common%in%the%Kuika%area,%in%particular%around%the%carcasses%Common%Starling%Sturnus'vulgaris%–%only%a%few%on%route%Common%Chaffinch%Fringilla'coelebs%–%common%Eurasian%Siskin%Carduelis'spinus%–%common%to%abundant%Common%Redpoll%Carduelis'flammea%–%twice%a%group%of%4-5%birds%seen%well%in%the%Kuikka%area%%'%A%very%handy%tool%for%checking%bird%distributions%is%the%Finnish%Bird%Atlas:%%http://atlas3.lintuatlas.fi/results/specieslist%''

%' ' Siskin' ' ' ' ' '''''''''''Pied'Flycatcher''''

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HERPS'Common%Frog%Rana'temporaria%–%a%pair%at%Kuikka%Base%Camp.%Large%numbers%of%frogs%were%seen%crossing%the%road%late%in%the%evening%on%May%13,%but%we%didn’t%stop%to%check%which%species%they%were.%%'

''

'