to allow a trigger-pull of at least 11;2lbs. or better. A spring 0.150" OD X I" long is used for the sear spring. Both are of 0.050" diameter wire. Most hardware stores carry (in assortment of springs and examples close to these with reasonable tension should work. Test the diameter by passing through a 10-32 nut. Fit the trigger and spring to the front block with the No. 10-32 tension screw. Install a similar spring, cut to length to fit between the sear and rear block, allowing i 1 the sear to compress the spring almost completely when rotated fully forward. After inserting the bolt, disassemble and file the "l" surface of the rear spacer to stop the sear tail at the proper point to cause the sear to be stopped straight upright when the bolt is removed from the action. This is a cut-and-try operation until it fits smoothly. Hardening the Trigger and the Sear Now dismantle the assembly and harden the working surfaces of the trigger bar and the sear nose and catch. Coat the sear and upper half of the trigger with soft soap or liquid soap (thick) to prevent forming rust. Hold the parts with a wire (long enough to isolate the heat from your hand) to hold the part in a strong carburizing flame (orange-yellow) until the upper end of the trigger bar or the upper parts of the sear become orange-red color. Bury the red-hot part into Kasenit or Hard-n-Tuffpowder (from Brownells, Inc.) until they acquire a coating of the powder. Reheat the parts to red heat and bury them in the powder a second time. Brush off the loose powder, reheat again and quench quickly in salt water. Wire brush and polish the parts clean. I suggest using a brass wire brush. Lubricate all moving parts and return to final assembly. Guy opts for an oxy-acetylene torch, but I find a propane torch does quite well. Some Notes 1) Recheck the slope at top front of the front spacer and side plates to insure the assembly will swing down far enough when the bolt is pulled open. File some off if necessary. Check the floor plate and trigger guard to allow the clearances. 2) The trigger aperture in the bottom of the floor plate/ trigger guard may need widening or lengthening for working clearance. 3) The spring pockets in the sear and the rear spacer carry the sear spring, and should not kink the spring when the sear is in the tripped position (compressed spring). If so, "egg-shape" the holes to relieve the misalignment. 4) The slopes at the lower front and rear of the spacer blocks/side plates are for clearance with any obstructions within the stock cavity or the magazine well, etc., and may be filed to maintain clearance, as long as such doesn't interfere with adjusting screws, rivets, etc. 5) There are several other rifles to which this trigger system is applicable, with certain modifications, such as the Springfield 03, Spanish Mauser, M93, Swedish Mauser M96, and many civilian copies and offshoots, with modifications to suit the individual arm. Check the dimensions. I would like to acknowledge the help of Guy Lautard in the preparation of this article. ~ Photos by Author October/November2001 29

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to allow a trigger-pull of at least 11;2lbs. or better. A spring0.150" OD X I" long is used for the sear spring. Both areof 0.050" diameter wire. Most hardware stores carry (inassortment of springs and examples close to these withreasonable tension should work. Test the diameter bypassing through a 10-32 nut.

Fit the trigger and spring to the front block with theNo. 10-32 tension screw. Install a similar spring, cut tolength to fit between the sear and rear block, allowing

i

1

the sear to compress thespring almost completelywhen rotated fully forward.After inserting the bolt,disassemble and file the "l"surface of the rear spacerto stop the sear tail at theproper point to cause thesear to be stopped straightupright when the bolt isremoved from the action.This is a cut-and-tryoperation until it fitssmoothly.

Hardening the Trigger and the SearNow dismantle the assembly and harden the workingsurfaces of the trigger bar and the sear nose and catch.Coat the sear and upper half of the trigger with soft soapor liquid soap (thick) to prevent forming rust. Hold theparts with a wire (long enough to isolate the heat fromyour hand) to hold the part in a strong carburizing flame(orange-yellow) until the upper end of the trigger baror the upper parts of the sear become orange-red color.Bury the red-hot part into Kasenit or Hard-n-Tuffpowder(from Brownells, Inc.) until they acquire a coating of thepowder. Reheat the parts to red heat and bury them inthe powder a second time. Brush off the loose powder,reheat again and quench quickly in salt water. Wirebrush and polish the parts clean. I suggest using a brasswire brush. Lubricate all moving parts and return to finalassembly. Guy opts for an oxy-acetylene torch, but Ifind a propane torch does quite well.

Some Notes

1) Recheck the slope at top front of the front spacer andside plates to insure the assembly will swing down farenough when the bolt is pulled open. File some off ifnecessary. Check the floor plate and trigger guard toallow the clearances.

2) The trigger aperture in the bottom of the floor plate/trigger guard may need widening or lengthening forworking clearance.

3) The spring pockets in the sear and the rear spacercarry the sear spring, and should not kink the springwhen the sear is in the tripped position (compressedspring). If so, "egg-shape" the holes to relieve themisalignment.

4) The slopes at the lower front and rear of the spacerblocks/side plates are for clearance with any obstructionswithin the stock cavity or the magazine well, etc., andmay be filed to maintain clearance, as long as suchdoesn't interfere with adjusting screws, rivets, etc.

5) There are several other rifles to which this triggersystem is applicable, with certain modifications, suchas the Springfield 03, Spanish Mauser, M93, SwedishMauser M96, and many civilian copies and offshoots,with modifications to suit the individual arm. Checkthe dimensions.

I would like to acknowledge the help of Guy Lautard inthe preparation of this article. ~Photos by Author

October/November2001 29