Tricopter Build

This is my first ever Build log – So please ask questions if you have any – I owe all my knowledge of

tricopters to Signguy (Bob D) and Bas10an (Sebastian) they have pioneered all this info and I in no way

want to take that from them. This is just a simple builders guide using one of the frames I have

designed.

The list

DT 750 motor X3 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...utrunner_750kv

$12 total $36

You can use any motor in the 600-1000kv range. The lower the Kv, the more resolution each step of the

speed control will give you. Motors over 1000 Kv are more difficult to make stable. That said, some have

used ducted fans and made it work.

Speed controls X3 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...d_programmable) $10 total $30

BEC X1 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...oise_Reduction $9

speed control programmer X1 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...ogramming_Card $7 This just

makes things easy, its worth $7

Battery X? this battery works great. http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...00mAh_3S1P_20C $14

3.5mm connectors X2 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...idproduct=4136 $4 Total $8

Gyro X3 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...Digital/Analog) $34 total $102 – I have been using the

Align gyros rce-550 that are 18.99 and located in the US. I found mine on Ebay

Yaw gyro X1 http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...zo_Gyro/Futaba $24

Volt warning A must have!!!! http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...ery_Monitor_3S $4

This is $230, you still need wire, battery plugs, a servo.

First thing you need to do is to cut the arms for your tricopter . The final length of the arms will be

determing the size of the tricopter radius. The longer the arms the more stable the tricopter will be .

Most arms on larger AP tricopters are 20”. For this tricopter I am going a little lighter so I have decided

to build them 16”. Once mounted the tricopter will be a 35” diameter. The arms cam be made from

any number of materials from wood, carbon fiber, or aluminum. I will be using wood since it is easy to

replace in a crash. I have taken a pine 2x4 and ripped it into 5/8” squares. I have then removed the

inside section to make an ibeam pattern. (again this is only to save weight and does not need to be

done). These arms are very light weight – With the servo installed they weigh only 4.5 oz. The

The yaw servo controls the movement of the tail of the tricopter. I am using a small metal gear servo

but have used a full size in the past. Here is an exploded view of an easy yaw mechanism. Basically you

need about 35% travel to each side.

This image is for the carbon version of the tricopter that uses 10mm carbon fiber arms with round

interior. The wood version has a slot cut in the top of the arm to allow the arrow shaft to sit flush. The

arrow shaft is then “Gooped “ into the slot. Signguy on RCGroup.com uses strapping take to secure his

arrow shaft into place. These methods make repair very easy. For the wood version I will be using a

short piece of carbon fiber slipped over the arrow shaft. Very easy to duplicate over and over just make

sure to shorten your yaw arm to they are all the same length. Here are a few photos of the yaw

mechanism I will be using in theis build again you can use whatever works for you.

This is then held in place with an insert in the arrow and a screw with blue titelock. I will be using the

servo under the arm on this build and located inside the landing gear for protection. You can mount it

on the top or bottom it doesn’t really matter. Mounted on the bottom is more susceptible to damage in

a crash so I am building it into my landing gear. Landing gear is simple pool noodles cut to length and

mounted. You can use any light weight material I am just using what I have and they will be visible while

flying. Here are 3 finished arms with landing gear mounted.

Now it is time to mount the motors and run your wiring. There are several ways to mount them – I will

be using a ziptie method since it is easy to apply and repair. I also like to use a piece of rubber between

the arms and the motor to help with vibrations.

Now run your wires from your ESC’s to the motors. In the past I have located my ESC’s below the prop

wash to help keep them cool but on this build I will be locating them closer to the frame of the tricopter.

I would like to conceal as much of the wiring on this build as possible but it doesn’t need to be. Just be

careful that when mounting your ESC’s that they cannot be damages if you have a prop strike.

Here are the completed arms. Next you will need to build a wire harness for the gain channels and

battery connections. For the Gain channels I have used some old servo plugs to make a simple harness.

You can solder all of them together if you like but I like things to be removable for use on other builds.

The picture above shows the simple gain wire harness and battery harness. The Diagram below shows

how to build the battery harness. Thanks Bob for the diagram

Note I do not use the switch to help the gyros arm because my BEC has an on off switch.

Next I will assemble the frame. The frame I will be using is a simple version made from g10 – You can

use plywood or other light materials. This frame was cut by http://www.averticalview.com/ - Jim does

an awesome job and his materials are top notch – Thanks Jim! He is also offering another style of frame

I have designed that has a front camera mount and will need a little bit of filing to get the parts to fit

together perfectly. The build for this frame is the same you just need to assemble the frame. This AP

frame is most likely arrive in bags of parts similar to the picture below.

AP Frame

Stack Frame

After completing the frame assembly start adding components as shown here.

Here are the exploded views of the frame assemblies –

Stack frame

AP version

Gyro installation:

There are two ways to install your telebee gyros 120 degrees or 90 degrees – While both of these

configurations work I find that 90 degrees is a little more stable. On 120 degree setups the gyros are

oriented with the gyro wire lining up with the arms. The 90 degree configuration sets the two front gyro

wires 90 degrees to the tail. Please not that the orientation of the wire (facing the motor or facing the

center of the tricopter will affect if you reverse the gyro switch or not.

After installing all hardware and connecting it to your TX – You will need to set the endpoints on the

ESC’s (please follow owners manual for this) With propellers off turn on your TX and set throttle to full –

Next power on your Tricopter – The ESC’s should go into programming mode once they beep twice

lower the throttle all the way down. You will need to set the gain for the gyros. If you are using the

throttle channel for the gyros set a flat line throttle curve with 7.5 on all points. This will put your

telebee gyros into rate mode. Now turn on your TX and connect the battery to your tricopter

(propellers off) Your ESC’s should initialize. After the telebees initialize add about ¼ throttle. While

holding the tricopter by the trail lean the copter side to side and not the rpm change on the motor that

is dipping. If the motor’s RPMs increase very quickly more than likely your gyros are in HH mode and

this will not work for the tricopter configuration.

I accept no responsiblility for personal or property damages caused by the use of this manual. This

manual is to aid in the construction of a tricopter.

For more information on tricopters – Visit – Sign guys tricopter thread

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1142429