Bookstore TREES

385 - TREES FOR ARCHITECTURE AND THE LANDSCAPE by Robert L. Zion A book of photographic tree definitions, or portraits, intended to facilitate communication between the landscape architect, the architect and the layman $11.95

665 - THE OXFORD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF TREES OF THE WORLD -Bayard Hora. Editor An authoritative reference describing the pnncipal trees of the world. Includes biology and growth of trees, ecology of different types of forest, forest management, timber usage, and pest and disease control. $24.95

740 - TREE FARM BUSINESS MANAGEMENT by James Vardaman A guide to help you increase profits from tree farming. Major problems confronting large and small tree farms and how to meet them including recommendations for seeking out accountants, lawyers and other professionals. $20.50

550 - PLANT PROPAGATION by Hudson Hartmann Up-to-date coverage of all phases of plant propagation by seeds, cuttings, grafting.

I. division and tissue culture propagation Emphasis on the most recent budding layering, developments in . disease prevention. developments in propagation methods, equipment and related subjects such as

n $24.95

710, 720 • SHRUB IDENTIFICATION by George Symonds Pictorial key to identify shrubs Contains more than 3.500 illustrations to check specimens Popular and botanical names are given for each shrub with handy index tabs for quick reference $18.00 hardcover. $8.00 paperback

I I O K T I S T H I R D

510 - HORTUS THIRD from Cornell University A 1.300-page concise dictionary of plants cultivated in the United States and Canada A reference which every horticultural professional should have $99.50

530 - INTERIOR PLANTSCAPING by Richard Gaines One of the first handbooks directed at the professional interior plantscaper Includes design and maintenance clues for foliage $28.50

540 - INTRODUCTION TO FLORICULTURE by Roy Larson Text is divided into two sections—one covering cut flowers, the other potted plants. Propagation, plant culture, pest control and individual considerations are given for chrysanthemums, carnations, roses, snapdragons, orchids, gladiolus, bulbous plants, azaleas, pot mums, pomsettias. Easter lilies, glesneriads. hydrangeas, cyclamen, begonias, kalanchoe and other flowering pot plants, bedding, hanging and foliage plants $29.50

480 • GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT FOR FLOWER & PLANT PRODUCTION by Kennard Nelson Approaches business from two aspects - the soil environment and air environment and stresses their interrelationship. Management of business procedures, physical facilities and marketing are discussed as well as the importance of crop rotation and scheduling. $15.35

ADDITIONAL TITLES 410 - DISEASES & PESTS OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS $26.50 660 - DISEASES OF SHADE TREES $23.50 610 - DISEASES OF TURFGRASS $30.00 420 - EXOTIC PLANT MANUAL $37.50 440 - FUNDAMENTALS OF ENTOMOLOGY & PLANT

PATHOLOGY $22.00 450 - GARDENING IN SMALL PLACES $7.95 490 - GREENHOUSE OPERATION & MANAGEMENT $19.95

670,680 - GUIDE TO TREES $19.95 hardcover, $8.95 paperback 350 - HANDBOOK OF LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURAL

CONSTRUCTION $48.50 690 - INSECTS THAT FEED ON TREES & SHRUBS $42.50 545 - MODERN WEED CONTROL $18.50 700 - THE PRUNING MANUAL $14.95 730-TREE CARE $8.95 750 - TREE IDENTIFICATION $9.00 760 - TREE MAINTENANCE $29.95 770 - TREE SURGERY $18.95 650 - TURFGRASS MANAGEMENT $17.95 640 - TURF IRRIGATION MANUAL $22.95 620 - TURF MANAGEMENT HANDBOOK $14.65 560 - WEED SCIENCE $24.00 570 - WESTCOTT'S PLANT DISEASE HANDBOOK $34.50 580 - WYMAN'S GARDENING ENCYCLOPEDIA $29.95

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430 - FLOWER & PLANT PRODUCTION $13.60 590 - FUNDAMENTALS OF SOIL

SCIENCE $19.15 460 - GREENHOUSE ENVIRONMENT $21.20 470 - GREENHOUSE GROWER $12.40 500 - HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE $18.70 520 - HOW TO GROW HEALTHY

HOUSEPLANTS $5.05 770 - MANAGEMENT OF ARTIFICIAL LAKES &

PONDS $16.95 600 - SOIL & SOIL MANAGEMENT $11.90

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PRUNING:

A KEY TO INTEGRATED PLANT

MANAGEMENT CONCENTRATE ON YOUNG TREES AND AVOID OVERPRUNING

by DOUGLAS J. CHAPMAN

Over the next twelve months we shall take a close look at INTE-GRATED PLANT MANAGE-MENT, that is, matching the plant's physiology with ground management goals. One factor cer-tainly is species selection. Another overall major management strategy is pruning. This is composed of when, what, how, and frequency of pruning. To more knowledgeably make these pruning decisions, one should understand how a tree grows, its gross anatomy, and the tree's response.

Trees have essentially two growth centers or meristems. They are the terminal meristem and the lateral meristem (cambium), lo-cated just beneath the bark. These two growth centers are involved with increasing the plant's height (terminal growth) and stem diame-ter (lateral growth). The center (heartwood) of branches and/or the trunk are non-living with the main function being support.

The stem's meristematic region, the cambium, is part of a thick band of living tissue which sheets the en-tire tree. The cambium's normal function is to produce xylem tissue inward for upward conduction of water and phloem tissue outward for the downward translocation of carbohydrates, etc. The cambium is also important in callusing over or closure of the wound. Outside

Douglas J. Chapman is a Horticulturist at Dow Gardens, Midland, Michigan

Pruning provides neat appearance and tree health.

the region of living tissue is the protective bark. Plant bark is some-what analogous to the skin cover-ing the human body from the stand-point of offering protection from the elements—water loss, mechan-ical damage, disease infection, and decay. Located inside the band of living tissue toward the trunk is a non-living heartwood which pro-vides the plant with a structural framework necessary to support a heavy canopy of branches, twigs, leaves, and fruit capable of with-standing the rigors of the elements.

The plant's response to wound-ing is important for it dictates how best to prune. It is important to re-

member that pruning results in the removal of undesirable plant parts but also inflicts a wound. Wounds to trees and shrubs are defined here as any break in the continuity of the outer protective bark which penetrates into the living tissue or deeper. The tree's response to pruning wounds is first compart-mentalization or isolation of the wound and then callus closure, as carefully described by Shigo. Nor-mally, small wounds are poten-tially less harmful than larger wounds. For this reason, the re-moval of limbs over one and one-half to two inches in diameter or cutting of the main trunk should be avoided whenever and wherever possible. This outer living area is critical in minimizing the effects of the wound and insuring rapid wound closure. This phenomenon is dramatically different from the response of animal injury, which we are familiar with. Wounds in trees do not heal, but the damaged area is isolated or walled off.

Compartmentalization is the chemical and physical response of the tree to wounds. Initially after pruning, the tree forms tyloses. This tylose response is essentially plugging the vascular tissue with chemicals, e.g. phenol compounds, which slow or stop the decay or-ganism. Normally the sidewalls are more resistant to decay or invasion of fungi than are the endwalls of vessels. A wound's compartment appears as a discolored-vertically oriented, often irregularly-shaped

Continues on page 54

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Pruning should not remove more than 20 percent of the plant tissue at one time and is best performed be-tween February and April.

area in the heartwood of the tree. Some trees are relatively quick compartmentalizers and effec-tively isolate the wound, e.g. Sugar Maple, pine, and Scarlet or White Oak. Others are poor compartmen-talizers, e.g. birch and Silver Ma-ple. The next step in the tree's re-sponse to minimizing wounds is closure. Closure is simply the plant producing callus tissue which cov-ers the wound or injury, reducing the climatic conditions that favor the activity of decay or saprophytic fungi. Callus tissue originates in the meristematic area at the periphery of the wound and expands across its face toward the center. Wound closure occurs when callus tissue completely covers the wound's surface. When pruning, it is impor-tant to encourage rapid closure of wounds. Conditions favoring rapid callus formation include a healthy-vigorous tree, minimizing wound size (cuts under two inches), flush cuts (not penetrating the collar of the branch attachment), and trim-ming back the edge of the bark to where it is still tightly attached.

Obviously, small wounds close most rapidly, thereby, minimizing exposure of sap and heartwood to weather. Wounds which close in one season are most desirable from the standpoint of preventing seri-ous decay. Branches should be cut at crotches or point of attachment. Correct placing of the cut is impor-tant to rapid callus formation and reducing effects of weathering, i.e. checking. The best pruning cuts re-sult in the smallest wound while

eliminating branch stubs. This type of cut is usually referred to as flush cut. Drying out and die-back of liv-ing tissue may occur to some degree if care is not taken to limit tearing or separation of the bark.

In addition to this two-fold wound response, pruning can af-fect flowering and fruiting. The carbohydrate-nitrogen ratio in woody plants determines whether the tree will promote vegetative growth or flowering for the particu-lar year. Pruning tends to reduce carbohydrates and may, in situa-tions involving severe pruning, cause the plant to put on excessive vegetative growth and, thus, not flower. Conversely, a periodic controlled pruning program can be used to sustain annual levels of flowering and fruiting. Further, in the case of deciduous trees, severe pruning can cause development of weak branches, known as suckers or watersprouts. These branches commonly develop from latent ad-ventitious or axillary buds located under the bark near branch axils a n d / o r at the periphery of large pruning wounds. They are usually considered undesirable but one must realize suckering is com-monly a response to excess pruning or removal of over 20 percent of the plant's leaf and woody tissue at one time. Several plants have a natural tendency to sucker excessively, e.g. crab apple, linden, and Silver Ma-ple, and, therefore, these are high maintenance plants or trees requir-ing pruning every two to three years. Normally, pruning young trees and developing a structure for the future is a key to pruning and not pruning throughout the life of the plant.

Timing for the pruning of decid-uous trees is critical. The period from late February through mid-April or late dormancy until bud swell is best. On a scale of one to ten, early spring is ten, whereas, the rest of the year, except mid-August, is one.

Late dormancy pruning results in rapid compartmentalization, clo-sure, and little drying. Pruning dur-ing late spring, after growth starts, or early summer seems to result in limited plant response, e.g. poor callus formation, little compart-mentalized response, and drying of

Continues on page 58

"terminal "lefiste/natic

growth

nonliving support

heartwood

lateral •meristematic growth

p Wood

bark

lateral men stemat ic area

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meristematic areas at the edge of the wound. Fall pruning, after the leaves drop, often results in mini-mal plant response and some heart-wood decay. Mid- to late-August provides a second period for prun-ing. At this time, the lateral meri-stem or cambium is still active. It is a time when maximum increase in trunk diameter occurs, thus, al-lowing for rapid wound response. In many cases, closure can occur before dormancy. This second pruning period is best suited for light pruning or trees that bleed heavily, such as birch, elm, and maple. It must be added that bleed-ing has not been reported to cause an adverse effect on trees, but if one can prune and eliminate this phenomenon, it is good for public relations with no negative impact on the tree itself.

Generally speaking, pruning ob-jectives for young-vigorous trees include the culture of healthy, disease-free, symmetrical plants. The following rules help achieve these goals: • start pruning trees when young; • maintain a central leader; • eliminate narrow v-crotches; • remove dead and diseased branches; • el iminate insect infested branches; • remove rubbing or deformed branches; • select well-spaced, broad-angled scaffold branches.

Pruning trees correctly, when they are young, eliminates most of the problems encountered by own-ers of middle-aged or mature trees and helps decrease or eliminate the need for pruning after the first few years. The less pruning one can do, the better it is for trees.

Establishment and maintenance of a single, centrally-located verti-cal stem or leader that dominates in height over all the plant is impor-tant. This reduces narrow v-crotch branches or double leaders in trees —one of the main causes for storm damage. Wide angle crotches, be-tween 40 and 90 degrees, result in stronger branch attachment, thus scaffold branches. Narrow crotch angles result in weak branch at-tachments which are subject to storm damage. Further, removal of dead and diseased branches is im-

portant. Prompt treatment allows the tree to compartmentalize the in-jury and, therefore, reducing dete-rioration of sapwood or heartwood, while encouraging rapid closure.

Limbs that change direction frequently are aesthetically pleas-ing but tend to grow into each other, resulting in crossing or rubbing branches. Branches that rub on other branches, buildings, or hard objects incur substantial wounds that may become a site for decay. For this reason, one of the two crossing branches or limbs should be removed or shortened while re-directing the remaining branches.

Pruning can also stiffen branches while determining the direction of growth. Buds, pointing parallel with the stem, are most likely to form narrow crotches; therefore, one should prune to the next lower bud to encourage the branch to grow at a 90 degree angle away from the main leader. Cuts should be pointed toward the bud to re-duce bud death due to desiccation and encourage callus formation. Since the branches that will be with the tree the longest and will bear the greatest weight of a mature tree are formed when the tree is young, it is critical that structural pruning be completed during the first four years after planting. It is not un-common for the majority of the tree's crown to be supported by four to seven main scaffolds. Prun-ing of scaffold branches which are no higher than 12 feet from the ground are easy to prune with mini-mal equipment. It is quite possible for the average person to mold his well-proportioned shade or orna-mental tree without touching a lad-der or leaving the ground.

Normally, the volume of leaf surface or branches removed dur-ing heavy pruning should never ex-ceed 20 percent. Light pruning con-stitutes removal of roughly 5 to 10 percent of the tree's leaf surface or branches.

The tendency to over-prune young trees can be partially over-come by maintaining secondary scaffold branches for a few years. Such limbs serve both aesthetic and physiological functions while acting as replacements, in case of main limb loss during early years. Such limbs should be removed at or

by the time they are one-inch in diameter.

It should be stressed that pruning trees when young means that a crew of one or two men can prune up to 100 or 200 trees a day using hand shears, versus corrective pruning of middle-aged or mature trees that require bucket trucks, often results in heartwood decay and decreased total productivity (pruning two to three trees in an eight-hour day). When considering the plant's physiology and our budget constraints, it is more effi-cient and beneficial to prune young trees at the correct time versus pruning middle-aged or older trees. Four- and five-year pruning cycles can often result in large wounds which don't heal with little improvement in the total structure of the tree. Pruning several times when the tree is young results in structurally sound trees that don't have to be pruned at maturity. Pruning of older trees should be kept at an absolute minimum be-cause their wound response is slower while heartwood decay is increased. It is more difficult to prune older trees economically; therefore, the pruning of older trees should be considered to cor-rect storm damage only, not trying to structurally improve trees that weren't pruned when they were young.

Wound dressing—the use of a wound dressing is a time-honored practice which has little or no em-pirical justification. To date, there is no tree-healing paint which is considered to be a panacea to limit pruning damage or heartwood de-cay. Tree healing dressings are commonly used for cosmetic pur-poses—black in color, essentially covering a large, unsightly wound.

One key to maintaining a land-scape is correct pruning. Corrective pruning should be actively prac-ticed on younger trees at the right time of year—March or August, to improve structure and remove deformities. If the aforementioned practices are implemented, the grounds manager, golf course su-perintendent, or horticulturist is truly using the tree's physiology in concert with management strate-gies—a combination that is hard to beat! W T T

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PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF OF GOLF COURSE NEEDS

Is your Greens Committee bored and inattentive when you present your annual report and landscape budget? Do they truly understand what your proposal is all about?

Passing out charts, literature and written matter is often not enough —most often it isn't even read, let alone evaluated. Some committee members will only look at the bot-tom line, the total dollar figure, without understanding what it is meant to provide. Approval can best be obtained if you can illus-trate your needs clearly and simply. Photography can help.

Often a golf superintendent feels uneasy standing and talking before a group. A carefully prepared slide show can serve as a crutch to those who freeze at a presentation and forget important details. Projecting pictures and charts on to a screen

by JAMES E.TRIGG

helps make this task easier. After all, "A picture is worth a thousand words".

How well you plan your presen-tation is the key to the success of your slide show. First and foremost you must clearly define your objec-tive. What do you want your audi-ence to do after seeing your presen-tation? Obviously, it is to under-stand clearly your plans and ideas and to convince them to allocate the necessary funds for their imple-mentation. If the Greens Commit-tee approves your proposals, then you know that your presentation was a success.

You must analyze your audience. How much do they know about the various grasses, machinery and construction in general? You must consider their backgrounds before making your presentation too tech-

nical. You must gear your show to their level of understanding. A photograph of a sample grass plant-ing which you made showing a side by side comparison (existing and new) will convince a layman better than a verbal description or the claims and photographs of a manufacturer's advertising litera-ture.

Since presentations to Greens Committees are often made at or near year's end, with snow on the ground there is no way that you can take them to the planting site for first hand viewing. Thus, a photo-graph taken in good weather is ab-solutely essential.

Before you appear before the Greens Committee, be sure of what you want. Do you know the specific make and model of the equipment that you want? This applies to ev-erything you ask for. The Greens Committee expects you to have re-searched and finalized your needs. Don't expect them to make this judgement for you. Of course, if they ask you for a less expensive alternate, you should be prepared to offer it.

Color slides provided by manu-facturers or supply houses and projected on a screen will provide the image of the equipment that you want and, with a pointer, will allow you to explain its features. You

Continues on page 62

Data back which records the date on the slide as you take it. To help show Using tripod for taking closeups of changes over time. charts and graphs for slides.