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A reAl record: 28 Three GlAsses were awarded between Alta Langa, Franciacorta, Oltrepò Pavese, TrentoDoc and Conegliano

Valdobbiadene, as never before. In short, in Italy we have become real experts, whether it comes to renowned classical methods or irresistible elaborated bubbles obtained through the Italian method of Gioiosa Marca. In this precise area, that obtained six Three Glasses, results are the most extraordinary: it is too soon to evaluate 2014 numbers, which will be known in the beginning of the new year, but 2013 finished with 72 million sold bottles of Prosecco Superiore, the Docg of the traditional area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, of which 28 million have been successfully exported. If we add the 243 million bottles of Prosecco Doc, the total is 315 million sold bottles of Prosecco, that becomes the most sold sparkling wine worldwide. Consider that Champagne, on the same year, sold 304 million bottles. “we’re underGoinG A very posiTive momenT on the international level, Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Prosecco Doc conquered fundamental markets such as the American and English ones, while exports were already very high in Germany and Switzerland”, says Giancarlo Vettorello, director

Record of Three Glassesfor Sparkling Wines

by Marco Sabellico

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New Year’s is close: here are 28 extraordinary labels for the end of the year toast!They are the best according to Vini d’Italia 2015

of the “Consorzio di Tutela del Conegliano Valdobbiadene”, “2014 should close with a slight increase of sales of both Docg and Doc. A remarkable result for these unfavorable years”. In many countries, the fresh, fruity, floral fragrance of these cuvée- which also have a very accessible cost- is frontrunner for other Italian wines, and it enhances the knowledge of brands that chose the classical method. These exist only in Italy, and they do not have great dimensions despite the fact the most sold, Franciacorta with nine Three Glasses, reached 13,5 million bottles. “Franciacorta in Italy is a synonym of excellence-says Paolo Ziliani from Guido Berlucchi company- countries with a sophisticated and mature palate like Japan are discovering our curve to the extent that we are currently exporting 10% of the Docg production”. We are obtaining such important results also on the American and German market. “A natural approach to its production and attention towards the environment and alternative energy sources create a different image of wine, making it more competitive on international markets, and our results confirm this” affirms Silvio Bresciani, from Barone Pizzini winery, who obtained the special prize for sustainable wine production on Vini d’Italia 2015. It has also been a very positive vintage on

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another side of Lombardy: Oltrepò Pavese. 5 classical method sparkling wines in this area have obtained our highest recognition. “Oltrepò is an area with an extraordinary vocation towards the classical method. Here, the pinot nero finds its perfect environment” says Pierangelo Boatti from Monsupello, who won the title of Sparkling Wine of the Year on the guide with his Brut Nature. He continues: “to make quality, compromises cannot be accepted- oltrepò has great growth margins for both quality and quantity, as long as we believe in it and work towards it. We can produce great blanc de noirs and excellent rosè”. in TrenTo There Are 40 producers of TrenTo doc. Seven obtained Three Glasses. “There are 120 labels” says Sabrina Schench, responsible of the promotion of TrentoDoc. “We sell seven million bottles, mostly in Italy. We are promoting the brand and the image of alpine sparkling wine and we will invest to bring our cuvée (even the smallest ones) on foreign markets. Quality is unquestioned. We have great growth potential”. Finally, the Alta langa Docg from Piedmont closes the review with a Three Glasses: the Enrico Serafino Brut Zero Sboccatura Tardiva Cantina Maestra ’08. It is produced in three provinces, Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria, and it follows a strictly classical method based on chardonnay, pinot nero and pinot meunier. For now there are only 14 wineries (for a total of 350thousand bottles per year), but these include the historical sparkling wine producers of Piedmont (where Italian sparkling wine was born) including Asti, worldwide phenomenon along with Conegliano

Valdobbiadene. Italian sparkling wines obviously don’t end here. High level cuvée are produced in every region, especially by native grape varieties producers. Durella, blanc de Morgex, gaglioppo, verdicchio, greco, negro amaro and nerello mascalese are only a part of the emerging excellence of these last years. But today you have 28 reasons to choose an Italian wine for your New Year’s toast!!

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The peRfeCT GlaSS foR SpaRklInG WIne

An exceptional team has been assembled in order to create the perfect glass for Sparkling Wines (Champagne and others). The project was commissioned by Italesse, who chose to assign it to Richard Juhlin, exceptional Champagne expert, and Claesson, Kovisto and Rune, a trio of architects and designers that founded one of

the most famous studios worldwide. The result is called Optimum: a glass that is studied in every smallest technical and formal detail in order to transform the tasting in a memorable sensorial experience. All is based on the equilibrium between height and width of the glass with respect to its closure, that is proportional with respect to its slant and the profoundness of the piqûre and of the perlage point. The glass is extremely light and the weight is

perfectly distributed in such a way that the aromas and fragrances of the wine are directed towards the nose with the right intensity,

offering an unprecedented tasting. Richard Juhlin has further optimized the level of the product with a special version of the glass,

born to obtain the maximum sensorial benefit.

TRE BICCHIERI SPARKLING WINES

Trento Domìni nero ‘09 aBaTe neRowww.abatenero.it | 28.60 euro

A sparkling wine walking the tightrope between extreme delicacy and a bracing structure, as smooth as it is intriguing, decidedly compelling, thanks to its vibrant freshness and citron notes, with a clean fruity palate, closing with hints of biscuit.

franciacorta extra Brut Cuvée annamaria Clementi Rosé Ris. '06 Ca' Del BoSCo

www.cadelbosco.it | 134.00 euroIt is a saignée rosé, from a selection of the es-tates legendary pinot nero vineyards. Showing dense, austere and juicy, it vaunts great fullness and depth, followed by a very long, satisfying finish with nice complexity.

op Cruasé oltreneroTenuTa Il BoSCowww.ilbosco.com | 26.00 euroIts fragrant nose of wild berries with tangerine notes is accompanied by a complex, balanced palate with full flavour, a fine bead and a long, well-defined finish.

Cartizze V. la RivettaVIlla SanDIwww.villasandi.it | 30.20 euroThis sparkling wine offers a complex nose of

white-fleshed fruit and lime blossom over a dry, creamy palate with a perfect fusion of fizz, acidity and sweetness.

Valdobbiadene Brut Vecchie Viti '13 RuGGeRI & C.www.ruggeri.it | 17.60 euroThe Vecchie Viti is produced from a selection of extremely old vines. Harvested separately, they are transformed to achieve an elegant, characterful Brut. The nose is dominated by white-fleshed fruit swathed in blossom, but there is a change of pace on the zesty, firm palate, with impressive progression and a lei-surely finish.

Valdobbiadene Rive di farra di Soligo Brut Col Credas '13aDamI www.adamispumanti.it | 12.90 euroThe 2013 growing year, with cool tempera-tures and a slightly late harvest, gave great aromatic finesse to Adami's wines, especially the assertive, taut Col Credas 2013, a dry Brut with crystalline class.

Brut Grave di Stecca '11nIno fRanCo www.ninofranco.it | 20.20 euroThis monovarietal Glera receives long bottle ageing, and shows an elegant aromatic profile that manages to maintain the freshness of the type while offering complexity and elegance, for a full-flavoured, dry, lingering wine.

Trento Brut methius Ris. '08DoRIGaTIwww.dorigati.it | 33.60 euroThe Methius 2008 remains one of Trentodoc's greatest voices. Delicate effervescence accom-panies and glorifies its fruity intensity, on a structural weave that as ever veers unerringly towards resin, for an overall combination of well-rounded stylishness.

franciacorta pas Dosé 33 Ris. '07feRGheTTInawww.ferghettina.it | 36.80 euroProduced from the estate's finest chardonnay grapes, it is a skilled blend of base wines aged for over 80 months on the lees before disgorgement. Elegant and stylish, with well-orchestrated floral and fruity notes, it is deep and juicy, with a never-ending finish of chamomile and spring flowers.

franciacorta extra Brut lucrezia et. nera '04CaSTello BonomIwww.castellobonomi.it | 117.60 euroIt is a Blanc de Noirs from the estate's oldest vineyards, produced only in the best vintages. Its complex nose still displays well-focused red fruit with hints of spice, coffee and crusty bread. On the palate, it shows good structure, fullness and a lively acid backbone that supports a long fin-ish characterized by spice and aromatic herbs.

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Trento Brut letrari Ris. '09leTRaRIwww.letrari.it | 25.70 euroWith its pale gold highlights, fleeting foam, white apple and pear flowers, silky flavours on the palate, and juicy burst in the finale, it's a sparkler of great personality, similar to other Trentodocs by Letrari, salty with a sinuous structure and proud demeanour.

Trento Brut Giulio ferrariRiserva del fondatore '04feRRaRIwww.cantineferrari.it | 90.70 euroThe intense, grippy Giulio 2004, is ever the classy wine: spectacularly elegant and full-fla-voured, this is one of the best versions ever.

franciacorta Collezione Grandi Cru '08CaValleRI

www.cavalleri.it | 36.00 euroIt's a monovarietal Chardonnay cuvée from the best vineyards, produced only in special vintages. It is complex and creamy, with a close-focused nose of apricots and cherries. On the palate it shows solid, full and flavoursome, with a long, well-orchestrated finish of cakes, toast and va-nilla.

franciacorta Satèn palazzo lana '06BeRluCChI & C.

www.berlucchi.it | 37.00 euroThis Blanc de Blancs from the chardonnay grapes of the Castello, Arzelle and San Carlo vineyards in Borgonato, is aged on the lees for over six years. Entry on the palate is soft and creamy, develop-ing deep and complex, progressive and satisfy-

ing with exceptionally well-defined notes of white-fleshed fruit, vanilla and aromatic herbs.

op pinot nero Brut Cl. Conti Vistarino 1865 '08ConTe VISTaRInowww.contevistarino.it | 19.30 euroA few hints of copper betray its evident identity as

a pinot nero, and its aromas of berry fruit, bal-samic notes and power leave no doubt about it.

franciacorta Brut Cuvée almaBellaVISTawww.bellavistawine.it | 27.70 euroIt has an elegant, creamy prickle; a delicate, linger-ing nose of white-fleshed fruit and aromatic herbs followed by citrus notes; and a fresh, rich mineral palate with close-focused fruit.

franciacorta extra Brut '08lo SpaRVIeRewww.losparviere.com | 28.60 euroIt is made from the chardonnay grapes of the south-facing Bobani and Brolo vineyards, the for-mer in Provaglio d'Iseo and the latter in Monti-celli Brusati. If we had to describe it in just one word, it would be "harmonious", for its elegant poise.

Valdobbiadene Brut Rive di Col San martino Cuvée del fondatore Graziano merotto '13 meRoTTowww.merotto.it | 16.50 euroIt's an extremely dry Brut produced on the slopes of Rive di Col San Martino, showing appley fruit and blossom over a delicate citrus backdrop, paving the way for an elegant, taut palate. Distinctive for its approachability and fragrance, it loses none of its grip and finesse.

Valdobbiadene Brut particella 68 '13 SoRelle BRonCawww.sorellebronca.com | 15.30 euroIt's a Prosecco from a single vineyard, and shows elegant aromatic expression, over a supple, dry, incredibly zesty palate.

Trento pas Dosé Balter Ris. '09 nICola BalTeRwww.balter.it | 28.70 euroIt's a sensational Pas Dosé, from chardonnay and pinot nero, completely natural, straight to the nose, with hints of tropical fruit, yellow plum, the hint of saltiness on the palate, with well-defined, sophisticated, honeyed notes.

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Trento mach Riserva del fondatore '09San mIChele all'aDIGewww.ismaa.it | 25.20 euroUnder Enrico Paternoster, the wine school cellar uncorks an honourably versatile, joyful Trentodoc, with seductive aromas of patisser-ie, almost voluptuous in its aromatic integrity.

Trento Rotari flavio Ris. '07mezzaCoRonawww.mezzacorona.it | 30.00 euro Indeed, the weighty Flavio, with its excellent

nose profile of moss and candied orange, shows coherent acidity, backed up by a creamy over-all finesse.

franciacorta Brut nature '10 BaRone pIzzInI

www.baronepizzini.it | 23.40 euroBrut Nature is becoming a classic of Francia-corta winemaking and the 2010 vintage is taut, fresh and mineral, with a close-focused nose of barely ripe apples and pears, which merge with elegant hints of medicinal and aromatic herbs. The dense, well-orchestrated palate has an ex-ceptionally long finish.

Brut 'more '10CaSTello DI CIGoGnolawww.castellodicigognola.com | 16.60 euroA lively sparkler with a nose of blood oranges and wild berries, and a juicy palate with a creamy bead, nice texture, and a commendable racy fin-ish.

op pinot nero Brut Cl. 1870 '10f.llI GIoRGIwww.giorgi-wines.it | 23.00 euroA mature Metodo Classico from pinot nero, it is complex and multifaceted, with notes ranging from wild berries and medicinal herbs to flowers. It vaunts a fine, persistent bead, firm flesh that takes away nothing of its elegance, and a long finish.

franciacorta extra Brut eBB '09 moSnelwww.ilmosnel.com | 27.70 euroIt is one of the very finest of the Franciacortas tasted this year. A Chardonnay cuvée from the estate's finest vineyards, it is fermented in oak before long bottle fermentation for well over three years. It is well profiled, deep and com-plex, with good definition and a long finish of citrus notes, aromatic herbs and vanilla.

Brut Cl. naturemonSupellowww.monsupello.it | 17.60 euroThe latest disgorgement, which is unbeatable value for money, is eminently drinkable, with a nose of flowers and star anise, and a well-defined dry, complex palate.

alta langa Brut zero Sboccatura Tardiva Cantina maestra '08enRICo SeRafInowww.enricoserafino.it | 36.10 euroAlta Langa Brut Zero remains one of the fin-est Italian sparklers. The Sboccatura Tardiva 2008 version is taut and well defined, with close-focused notes of citrus and white-fleshed fruit mingling with pleasant hints of iodine, on a very long, lingering palate.

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2014OCTOBER

25 octoberROMEtrebicchieri

29 octoberOSAKARoadshow

31 octoberTOKYOtrebicchieri

NOVEMBER

3 novemberSHANGHAItrebicchieri

5 novemberHONG KONGtrebicchieri

20 novemberMOSCOWtrebicchieri

25 novemberZURICHVini d’Italia

27novemberWARSAWVini d’Italia

DECEMBER

2 decemberISTANBULRoadshow

2015JANUARY

12 januarySTOCCOLMAVini d’Italia

14 januaryCOPENHAGENVini d’Italia

15 januaryOSLOVini d’Italia

FEBRUARY

3 februaryMIAMIVini d’Italia

5 februaryNEW YORKtrebicchieri

10 februaryCHICAGOtrebicchieri

12 februarySAN FRANCISCOtrebicchieri

18 februaryLONDONVini d’Italia

27 februaryMELBOURNEtrebicchieri

MARCH

2 marchSYDNEYtrebicchieri

14 marchDUSSELDORFtrebicchieri

APRIL

21aprilHOUSTONRoadshow

24 aprilMEXICO CITYRoadshow

aprilMUNICHVini d’Italia

MAY

11mayTAIPEIRoadshow

13 mayGUANGZHOUVini d’Italia

2014

/2015

wor

ldto

urVini d’Italia

2014/2015tourtrebicchieri

15 mayBEIJINGRoadshow

JUNE

1 juneVANCOUVERtrebicchieri

4 juneTORONTOtrebicchieri

9 juneHELSINKIVini d’Italia

12 juneMOSCOWVini d’Italia

PER INFO: WORLDTOUR@GAMBEROSSO.IT

ANTEPRIMASP

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8ESTERI

wine buy of the month

CollI ToRToneSI BaRBeRa elISa

La Colombera70,000 bottles

Ex-cellar price 8 euroswww.lacolomberavini.it

Farming is in the bllod of the Seminy Family, who

have tilled the land for generations. The winery is

located only 5 Km away from Tortona, a small town next

to Alessandria with great historical importance for

Northern Italy (especially during the Middle Ages).

Wine production was marginal until the 70’s,

when the family decided to start it rather than merely selling grapes. The turning

point was at the end of the 90’s when investments,

projects and experience innovated production. Today

8 labels coming from local vineyards are produced:

timorasso, nibiò (dolcetto) and croatina, along with

two traditional wines from Alessandria called barbera and cortese. Barbera Elisa 2011 is an extraordinary

wine. On the nose it offers sophisticated aromas of

dark berry fruit enriched with notes of rain-

soaked earth, while the palate displaces

aristocratic austerity, combined with a long,

full-bodied finish.

Coronavia Vittorio Emanuele II, 14San Sebastiano Curone (AL)average price: 35 euroIf you find yourself around Val Curone, between Piedmont and Lombardy, despite how much time you may have you can’t lose the chance to have lunch or dinner by the Fontana Family, an already famous name in terms of local cuisine. Hand-rolled pasta like tradition wants, garden vegetables, meat from renowned suppliers: all cooked according to rigorous tradition. This means that sitting at this table implies tasting genuine and authentic flavors in an intimate family atmosphere, in a comfortable and cozy room where time has stopped. The starters immediately convey the quality: vegetable cakes, omelettes, three liver pates, black truffle toma cheese and many others based on the current season. Then, main suggestions are the exquisite gnocchi, truffle taglierini (if the period is right) or simple ravioli with sauce. The second courses vary from “Inferno” beef (a homemade recipe) to mixed bollito, and at this point come the deserts: Mont Blanc, sorbets and especially the homemade ice-cream. The choice of wines is absolutely comparable to that of more famous restaurants, with a large presence of choices from the local wines.

twitter dixit

Tim Atkin @Timatkin  14 decWho needs the gym when I can lift Argentinean icon wines off the table?

SOUK Clapham@soukclapham 22 nov

“Always remember: There’s no problem that six glasses of wine can’t

solve!”

@Decanter12 decLove Italian red wine but don’t want to spend a fortune? See Ian D’Agata’s pick of 35 amazing Piedmont reds under £20

editorLorenzo Ruggeri ruggeri@gamberorosso.it

ADV Director Franco Dammicco dammicco@gamberorosso.it

DealerPoster Pubblicitàposter@poster-pr.it

Gambero Rosso holding spa Via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy)

NEWS&TRENDS

December 2014

reStAurAnt of the month