Travelife Magazine - Holidays 2013 - Travel - Kashmir

88 www.travelife.biz HOLIDAYS 2013

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BEAUTY IN CONFLICT Gulmarg, a popular ski destination in winter and a favored spot for golf in summer, is a two-hour drive from the Kashmir domestic airport, in the Baramula district of

Jammu and Kashmir. It used to be a summer escape for the British in the early 20th century, but currently, the town has less than a thousand people, and only tourists and workers in the ski resorts and tourist sites are allowed to stay overnight.

From the town of Tangmarg, the last major town before our ascent, it was a 30-minute winding drive up to Gulmarg, where our final destination was The Khyber Himalaya Resort and Spa. Barely a year old, The Khyber boasts of breathtaking views of the Himalayas amidst elegant but warm interiors. Here I was greeted by kind-eyed hotel staff bearing steaming cups of kahwah, a fragrant tea infused with Kashmiri saffron, cardamom, chai, and cinnamon.

GULMARG ON FOOTThe views from my hotel room were spectacular, but I could not wait to set off and explore Gulmarg on foot. The weather was cool and comfortable enough for a five-kilometer trek through the Gulmarg jungle. My guide Shareef, a man in his mid- to late 40s who has lived in Gulmarg all his life, knew the trails like the back of his hand.

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CEIA YLAGAN escapes to the Himalayan mountains of Kashmir

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We started off from a low hill carpeted by soft bright green grass that reminded me of the Windows wallpaper; from here we followed a rough path alongside potato and vegetable patches, passing a mother carrying a basket on her head, with her two doe-eyed children ambling behind her.

Then we found ourselves in an area surrounded by large fir, pine, and cedar trees that stood high into the sky. The ground was softer and moist, while the trees along the way were covered in musky, dark green moss. We could hear the squeak of an eagle and the cry of a deer in the distance, and Shareef even stopped to show me the tracks of bears and deers. There was a palpable sense of serenity in the air, like everything was in its rightful place in the world, and we were intruders disrupting the natural flow of flora and fauna.

We were but a kilometer away from the end of the trail when we had to climb over a huge log that fell across the path. This was where I slipped while climbing over the log, and hit my torso against the fallen tree’s trunk. I had probably broken a rib, yet, with the help of my companions, I pulled myself up and climbed over the log. I wasn’t in pain, so I continued on with the trek.

We were walking for more than an hour when I asked Shareef how far it was to the Line of Control, which separates the areas controlled by India and Pakistan.

“It’s just 25 kilometers away,” he said. “You can walk from here if you’d like. But you’ll have to learn how to dodge bullets, if you want to go there.”

BEST SKI SLOPE IN ASIAGulmarg is a popular ski destination in winter because its slopes rise up almost as high as 3,000 meters. A gondola cable car takes visitors to the peak of the Affarwat Hills of the Pin Panjal Range of the Himalayas, while a 4,200 meter-long cable car ride takes visitors up the 3,950 meters of Kongdoori Mountain. The gondola ride up the mountain allows a closer look at these slopes, reportedly some of the best in Asia for advanced and extreme skiers.

Looking down from the cable car, I could see the rocky and jagged edges of the mountain, sharp ridges jutting out from every which way, seemingly unfit for any kind of hike – much less for skiing. But Nazir, son of my trekking guide Shareef, told me the mountain is heavily covered in snow during winter, making it ideal for skiing.

THE INDIAN SUMMER CAPITAL

Kashmir is a region of northern India that has been in the news for the past several decades. Despite India having

control over a bigger portion of the region, Pakistan and the People’s Republic of China (PRC) have had disputes with India regarding the

ownership and control over this area.

Jammu and Kashmir, unlike most of India, is a predominantly Muslim region that enjoys special autonomy, with its own flag and constitution. Because of its unique biodiversity and geography, the region is popular for its agricultural

produce such as apples, apricots, almonds and walnuts, and the world’s

most expensive spice, saffron.

Kashmir, the “Summer Capital of India,” is one of the most popular tourist

destinations in India because of its cool climate and famed mountain ranges.

Affarwat Peaks

LIFE ON A LAKEFrom Gulmarg, my next stop was the city of Srinagar in the Kashmir Valley. Surrounded by the Himalayas and with moderate elevation, the city boasts of a cool climate, lovely gardens and the Dal Lake. Its history dates as far back as 2,000 years, with Hindu, Buddhist, Muslim and even Mughal rulers taking control of the city through the ages. Srinagar has been the venue of many Kashimiri struggles against Indian rule over the years; nevertheless, it continues to attract tourists and develop into an urban city.

Dal Lake, 18 sq. km. in size, is central to life in Srinagar, with many local families depending on it for livelihood. On the embankment surrounding the lake are several Mughal gardens such as Nishat Bagh, several parks, and hotels.

At Nishat Bagh, I met a group of Kashmiri women dressed in colorful saris that covered them from head to foot. They sat huddled close together under the shade of a tree, enjoying the cool breeze while some children ran around them. When I complimented them on their beautiful, brightly hued garb, they told me they had just come from a wedding ceremony earlier in the day. Nothing can create a bond between women more easily than talk of beautiful clothing.

LOCAL GARB

Kashmiri women are dressed conservatively, with their heads covered in cloth, while Kashmiri men wear the

traditional Kashmiri garb called khan dress or pathan, a long, calf-length dress shirt with pants.

A GARDEN TALE

One of the most popular attractions along Dal Lake is Nishat Bagh, a Mughal garden created by Asaf Jah, father-in-law of Emperor Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal. Nishat Bagh, Hindustani for “Garden of Gladness,” was originally built in 1633 against the Zabarwan mountainside.

Emperor Shah Jahan was so enamored by this garden that he expressed his admiration of it to his father-in-law three times, in the hope that Asaf Jah would give it to him. But Asaf Jah loved this garden too much to part with it. In disappointment, Emperor Shah Jahan demanded that the water source for the garden be turned off, leaving the garden dry and desolate.

One day, Asaf Jah – who was so saddened by the decree – fell asleep under a tree and was awakened

by the sound of water trickling down the garden’s fountain. A servant

had disobeyed the Emperor and turned on the water source to the garden. Asaf Jah asked the servant to turn the water off again, but the Emperor was impressed by the servant’s loyalty to his father-in-law that

he allowed the water to flow through the garden again.


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Kashmiri flower vendor on Dal Lake

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LIVING ON A BOATDal Lake is dotted with houseboats that provide unique alternative lodgings for tourists to Srinagar. Originally built for the British visiting Srinagar, who could not own property in Kashmir, the houseboats vary in size. Some have verandas and porches, while others are linked together by walkways or small bridges that stand on stilts.

A Kashmiri houseboat typically has three to four ensuite bedrooms, plus a living room and dining room. Meanwhile, the kitchen is usually located on the main houseboat where the owner lives with his or her family.

The bedrooms of a houseboat are typically big and decorated with Kashmiri wooden furniture full of elaborate and finely detailed carvings. Intricately embroidered Crewel fabric and colorful floor rugs with traditional designs complete the look and feel of a local Kashmiri home.

A caretaker usually watches over each houseboat and its occupants. My houseboat was assigned to Dean, a regal-looking man in his late 40s, always impeccably dressed in a white button-up suit.

Each houseboat is also assigned its own shikaras, a small, flat-bottomed boat with a covered seating area, to transport occupants to and from the shore. This is the only means of transportation around Dal Lake, and its boatmen are experts in navigating the lake’s canals and tributaries.


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KEEPING WARM IN KASHMIR

Kashmir is known for its pashmina shawls and embroidered fabrics. Authentic pashmina shawls are fine, soft, and quite

thin, but still excellent for keeping one warm. The most expensive shawls, which sell for upwards of 7,000 rupees (US

$ 110), are made from the fur around a baby sheep’s neck.

SHOPPING TIP

When shopping in Kashmir, beware of asking for the prices of items. Kashmiri vendors often interpret this

as serious interest in an item.

SHOPPING ON WATERDal Lake is also littered with vendors on shikaras peddling their wares from houseboat to houseboat. Most vendors wait until after dinner to do their version of a “house call.” They stop by each houseboat and present their products to tourists, setting up a makeshift market right in the houseboat’s living room.

Mohammad Ismail Dar, a 57-year-old pashmina vendor, stopped by our houseboat to show off his scarves and clothes. His family has been making and selling pashmina shawls for more than 40 years, with each generation learning the craft of weaving, painting and embroidering shawls .

“The women make the shawls while the men sell them,” he explained.

Ismail and his assistant brought aboard four large bags of shawls. He eagerly unfolded each piece, excitedly draping these over our shoulders to encourage us to feel the softness, and then explaining each particular design.

Shikaras vendors also sell spices such as Kashmiri saffron and cinnamon; Kashmiri flowers, plants, and seeds; leather goods; and jewelry with semi-precious stones mined from the region. Most vendors can be overly persistent and difficult to turn away.


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ICY MONUMENTThree hours away from Srinagar is Sonamarg or the “Meadow of Gold,” a sparsely populated alpine valley 87 km northeast from Srinagar and 2,740 meters above sea level. The route from Srinagar to Sonamarg passes through many local villages full of vignettes of an unhurried life: colorfully dressed women busy with daily work, school children on their way to school, and old men sitting idly by the roadside.

Between the villages of the Sindh Valley are blankets of bright green fields stretching towards snow-clad mountains that almost fuse gently into the sky. A stream runs alongside the highway, with water that is said to have melted from the Thajwas Glacier.

Trekking, hiking, and camping are the most popular activities in Sonamarg, which is best visited between May and September, when the weather is manageable. With the arrival of November comes thick snow that covers the region, making it inaccessible. Only Indian military personnel are allowed in this area in winter because of severe weather conditions.

Three kilometers from Sonamarg are the snow-covered and ice-capped mountains of the Thajwas range, with the majestic Thajwas Glacier as focal point. When I visited, the glacier was only a patch of ice lodged at the side of the mountain as everything else had already melted.

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A soft breeze blew as the sun warmed my face and I pondered on the grandness of natu re and this u nspeakable beauty formed

through thousands of years.

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FEAST FOR A KINGKashmiri food is predominantly influenced by its Mughal history

NAVRATAN KORMAKorma is a North Indian curry made with cream and nuts, while navratan means “nine gems” in Hindi. This curry dish uses nine different vegetables (typically, cauliflower, peas, carrots, potatoes) and nuts such as almonds or, cashews, along with dried fruits and ß, a type of Indian cottage cheese.

DHANIA KORMAAn aromatic chicken or lamb curry dish with sauce made from yogurt and spiced with green cardamoms, dhania (or coriander) powder, cloves, and cinnamon.

MUGHLAI CHICKENA chicken dish with creamy gravy made of yogurt and an almond or cashew paste that is blended with ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, and chili.

SUJI HALWAA sweet, creamy pudding made of suji (a type of semolina flour), milk, and nuts and flavored with cardamom.

SHOPPING IN KASHMIRBest buys in Northern India

SHAWLS, SCARVES AND STOLESKashmir is known for these pieces made from wool, cashmere, and pashmina, with the latter two coming from Himalayan mountain goats. Real pashmina is finer and thinner than cashmere.

Shatoosh shawls or “ring shawls” are so fine that only highly skilled workers can make them and whose test for authenticity is that it should easily pass through a ring. These come from the neck of the young chiru antelope, which has become an endangered specie, hence the banning of the manufacturing and sale of shatoosh shawls.

CARPETPossibly the most expensive purchase in the city, Kashmiri carpets should be hand-woven, with backs that are knotted, not tufted. Take note of thread count, size, and yarn used, as the latter should be silk, wool, or a combination of both. Single-knotted carpets are better buys.

SPICES, NUTS AND DRIED FRUITSThe cool climate makes it an ideal place for growing spices, nuts, and fruits. Look for saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, grown near Srinagar, as well as cardamom, almonds, walnuts, and dried fruits.

PAPIER MACHE PRODUCTSPapier-mâché jewelry and trinket boxes, vases, bowls, trays and other home décor with fine details, intricate and colorful designs, and gold tints with a glossy varnish are must-buys.

Jet Airways flies regularly to Delhi from Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Singapore, offering some of the most generous baggage allowance even for

economy class.

My flight from Hong Kong was about four hours long, just enough time to watch a sitcom

or a movie, have dinner, and get some shut eye in between. In-flight entertainment was an interesting mix of international and Bollywood

films, the latest TV shows, and a wide selection of music.

www.jetairways.comTel: (632) 814-0508

COPPER OR SILVER WAREFloral or leaf patterned copper or silverware bowls, trays, plates and other items used in daily life are good buys from Kashmir’s old city.

WOODEN CARVINGSWalnut wood grows in abundance in Kashmir, and the art of woodcarving is centered on Srinagar. Best items to bring home are trays, boxes, bowls, and lamps. Price depends on the intricacy of design and thickness of the wood.

KASHIDA EMBROIDERED FABRICSKashmiri embroidery, known as kashida, is popular around the world for its color, texture, design and technique. It is a craft that is passed on from generation to generation, with designs inspired by nature, flora, fauna, landscape, and colors of Kashmir on wool, silk, or cotton fabrics.

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The base of the glacier was 15 kilometers from the main road, and I opted to take a pony ride, with Irshad, a 15-year-old boy who was just starting to learn about guiding, as my navigator.

The route to the valley was breathtaking. The path slowly ascended through grass-covered hills dotted with pine, fir and birch trees, while the Thajwas Glacier awaited in glory in the distance. Along the way, we passed streams flowing with clear water from melting glaciers, before finally reaching the base, where makeshift tents had been pitched to accommodate travelers who need rest or first aid.

Here, the Thajwas Glacier stood majestically in front of me, its jagged edges and ridges melding softly into what was left of the patch of ice. A soft breeze blew as the sun warmed my face and I pondered on the grandness of nature and this unspeakable beauty formed through thousands of years. With the alpine range of Thajwas proudly rising to touch the clear blue sky, I felt so insignificant, and yet so much part of the grand scheme of life. n

Special thanks to Jet Airways and Go India! Journeys.

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EDITOR’S PICK“Small, compact, and user-friendly, the Canon Powershot G15 is the ideal travel partner. Its Wide-Angle 5x Optical Zoom lens allows you to easily capture landscapes, cityscapes, architecture, and street scenes even in low light. It’s small enough to fit in my purse, and has an excellent battery life that can last days. The perfect alternative to a bulky and heavy DSLR.”

- Ceia Ylagan, Managing Editor

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NEED TO KNOWKashmir is in northern India. It is known as the “Summer Capital of India” because of its cool climate

and proximity to the Himalayan range. Despite its history of territorial conflict with Pakistan and China, it is a popular tourist destination because its snow-capped mountains are ideal for skiing and trekking.

TRAVELER’S CHECKLISTVISA REQUIREMENTS:Visa applications can be coursed through BLS International Services Ltd., an exclusive partner of the

Embassy of India Manila. 601-A One Corporate Plaza, Arnaiz Avenue, Makati City. Tel. (+63)(2) 555-5060 or 478-9152 blsindiavisa-ph.com

EXCHANGE RATE:1 US$ = 63 Indian Rupees

TIME DIFFERENCE:The Philippines is three hours ahead of India.

PHILIPPINE CONSULATE IN NEW DELHI50-N Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021Tel. (+9111) 2688-9091, 2611-0152, 2410-1120, 2688-8838www.newdelhipe.com

HOW TO GET THEREJet Airways flies to Delhi daily from Hong Kong, Singapore, and Bangkok, and has connecting flights to

Jammu and Kashmir.

NAVIGATE YOURSELF: KASHMIR, INDIA


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WHEN TO GOThe best time to go to Kashmir

is from May until early November, when the climate is comfortable and the flowers are in bloom. Wintertime (from December until early March) is also recommended for those interested in skiing and sledge riding.

WHERE TO STAYTHE KHYBER HIMALAYA RESORT AND SPA

This resort and spa located in Gulmarg is barely a year old and boasts of stunning mountain views of the Affarwat Peaks. The spacious rooms are adorned with Kashmiri handiwork and crafts, with beautifully hand-woven, embroidered bedcovers and sofa, along with plush rugs covering almost every corner of the room. Most offer balconies with views of the Affarwat Peaks of the Himalayan range, and inviting floor-level bathtubs. www.khyberhotels.com

NAVIGATE YOURSELF: KASHMIR, INDIA

VIVANTA BY TAJA more modern four-star accommodation in Srinagar, this hotel is set atop one of Srinagar’s hills and offers an amazing view of the city with utmost privacy.

ROYAL GROUP OF HOUSEBOATSA Kashmiri houseboat on Dal Lake is a novel accommodation during a visit to Srinagar. Houseboats are usually made of cedar wood, with décor crafted from cedar and walnut wood. Aside from the living area and dining room, bedrooms are spacious with individual bathrooms with hot water. Houseboats vary in degree of luxury – from spartanly furnished types to more elegantly furnished houseboats. Each houseboat has a dedicated shikara and shikara-wala (shikara rower) that takes guests from houseboat to port and back. royalhouseboats.com

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Travelife Magazine - Holidays 2013 - Travel - Kashmir