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Travel, Buenos Aires, Italy, Boston. The Jewels of Central America including Guatemala, Roatan's Treasures and the Mystery of the Maya. All Inclusive Evolution with Hyatt, Finland's Sauna Culture and much more...
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I’m sure many Canadians share my feelings of relief that winter, with its cruel, sub-zero temperatures, is finally making a slow retreat.
I’ve found the best way to cure my cabin fever is with thoughts of travel. Even if you were fortunate to escape to the sunny south, spring is still a great time to regroup and start planning a soul-nourishing escape. This issue of Travel Life is packed with ways to warm you up to a new adventure. Learn about Buenos Aires’ burgeoning underground food scene in Covert Affairs, the first in a new series that we like to call The Foodie Files. Find out
how the Finns regularly sweat it out and unwind through their centuries-old sauna rituals. Read about the benefits of taking a walking tour in Italy – and exploring Boston on two wheels. Seek out unusual accommodations, like the hotels we found that are built in the trees. And if you love to keep an eye out for spring bloomers, like cherry blossoms and tulips, we’ve shared a few places around the world where you can get your spring flower fix.
We’ve also devoted a section to discovering the jewels of Central America. Explore the underwater paradise of Roatan, do a little time travel to unlock the mysteries of the Maya and learn about all the countries that make this region so culturally rich and beautiful. There are many off-the-beaten-track adventures to be had.
Enjoy your spring adventures – both near and far.
[email protected] @tammyceccoW H E R E T O F I N D M E ?
E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R
Tammy CeccoEDITOR IN CHIEF
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8
20
CONTENTS
2 EDITOR’S LETTER TAMMY CECCO - PLANNING FOR SPRING ADVENTURES - BOTH NEAR AND FAR.
7 CONTRIBUTORS
JOURNALS 8 SPRING TRAVEL & LIFE ESSENTIALS
10 THE HISTORY OF THE FLIGHT ATTENDANT THE DRAMATIC EVOLUTION OF THE ROLE OF THOSE WHO TAKE CARE OF US IN THE SKY.
14 SHOOT FOR THE BLOOMS WHERE TO SEE SPRING BLOSSOMS AROUND THE WORLD. UNIQUE & BOUTIQUE16 SLEEP IN THE TREES UNIQUE HOTELS WITH A BIRD’S EYE VIEW.
FOODIE FILES 18 COVERT AFFAIRS UNCOVERING THE SECRET (AND NOT SO SECRET) CUISINE OF BUENOS AIRES.
PERSPECTIVE20 AN ALL-INCLUSIVE EVOLUTION TRAVEL LIFE SPEAKS TO THE CEO OF PLAYA HOTEL MANAGEMENT ABOUT ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH HYATT TO DEVELOP A MODERN, ALL-INCLUSIVE VACATION. SPA CORNER24 FEELING THE HEAT FINLAND’S SAUNA CULTURE OFFERS BOTH TRADITIONAL AND MODERN WAYS TO SWEAT IT OUT.
PAY IT FORWARD26 EIGHT WAYS TO GIVE BACK WHEN TAKING A VACATION
14
1816
26
5TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
DISCOVERIES28 WALK & ROLL EXPLORE BOSTON ON TWO FEET OR TWO WHEELS TO DISCOVER ITS RICH HISTORY AND VIBRANT PRESENT.
32 DO NORTH AFTER VISITING BOSTON, BE SURE TO SPEND TIME IN CAPE ANN TO UNWIND IN A RELAXED SEASIDE SETTING.
35 IT’S GUINNESS TIME LEARN HOW THE VENERABLE BEER AND ITS COMPANY’S RICH HISTORY HAVE BECOME AN INSTITUTION.
38 ITALY: WALK AND WINE A WEEK SPENT WALKING THE MEDIEVAL VILLAGES AND THE WINE COUNTRY OF CHIANTI.
THE JEWELS OF CENTRAL AMERICA
46 SPONSORED CONTENT: 7 GUATEMALA MUST-DOS
52 THE LIFE AQUATIC DISCOVER ROATAN’S TREASURES BOTH UNDERWATER AND ON DRY LAND.
54 MYSTERY OF THE MAYA THE MYSTERIES HIDDEN IN THE JUNGLES OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
28 32
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PUBLISHER D.M.E.
EDITOR IN CHIEFTammy Cecco
SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORTara Nolan
DESIGN DIRECTORJoyce Padilla
interactmg.com@interactmg
PRODUCTIONGregory Alexander
PHOTOGRAPHYTishan Baldeo
CONTRIBUTORSJennifer Ashton
Lisa JacksonYuki Hayashi
Diane SlawychTabatha Fenandez-Sardina
PRINT ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR
Greg Warde
ADVERTISING / SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES / EVENT COVERAGE
[email protected] | Tel: 416.805.5159
SUBSCRIPTIONSTravel Life is published every quarter by D.M.E. and is
independently owned. Opinions expressed in Travel Life are those of the authors, and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or
advertisers. Travel Life does not assume liability for content.
All rights reserved. Re-production in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. For re-production request send an
email to [email protected]
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COVER IMAGE: Compliments of the Institute of Tourism of Guatemala - INGUAT
Travel & Life
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As the clocks go forward, temperatures rise and flowers start to appear in abundance. One thing is clear: spring is definitely in the air! Shake off the winter blues and bring your energy up.
Whether spring takes you to the seaside or to the mountains, we selected our favourite beauty products to help you energize your everyday routine. With these fresh new colours, you can complement the change of seasons with a fresh spring palette.
Plus, nothing feels better than knowing summer is around the corner. So, take every opportunity you have to remind yourself that exercise will help you find balance and keep your mind at peace. Doing yoga, going for a walk or just visiting the hotel gym during your vacation can be rewarding. Remember to pack light, and bring sneakers that are chic and functional. Here we share our favourite travel must-haves to slip in your suitcase.
E S S E N T I A L S
S P R I N G
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FRED PERRY TURNER SLIDE-ONS
Town Shoes and townshoes.ca
VINCE CAMUTO BEACH SCARF Hudson’s Bay and thebay.com
GAIAM FOREVER PINK YOGA MAT well.ca
GAIAM NO SLIP YOGA SOCKSwell.ca
CONAIR INFINITI PRO CURL SECRET Shop.ca
JABRA MOVE WIRELESS HEADPHONES
thesource.ca
NEW BALANCE MINIMUS 20V4 CROSS-TRAINER New Balance stores andnewbalance.ca
RIMOWA BOLEROBUSINESS MULTIWHEEL
SUITCASERimowa Store at 101 Bloor
Street West, Toronto and taschen.net
RIMOWA WRITING CASERimowa Store at 101 Bloor Street West, Toronto and taschen.net
JOURNALS | TRAVEL & LIFE
TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
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Nurse, sex kitten, mechanic. Waitress, safety supervisor, model. There surely aren’t too many jobs that have had such a chequered past! The role of those who take care of us in the sky has evolved dramatically since commercial flying’s early days in the 1920s. Flying back then wasn’t for the faint of heart, due to the throbbing engines, unheated aircraft and unreliable timetables – one of those first flights between London and Paris made 33 unscheduled landings!
Much changed when plucky nurse Ellen Church applied to the Boeing Corporation (later American Airlines) to be a pilot. Her application set the execs to thinking that maybe a uniformed nurse would be perfect in the passenger cabin, soothing rattled nerves and administering medical assistance where necessary.
Complete with their jaunty caps and flowing capes, seven nurses were hired. They are generally considered to be the first official flight attendants. Ever prepared, they would have a railway timetable at hand, in case the aircraft had to land unexpectedly, resulting in passengers transferring to a train. They also carried a screwdriver, an invaluable tool when the passengers’ seats rattled so much they became loose and had to be tightened back into place.
Men were hired, too: Taking their cue from the many solicitous
stewards who worked on passenger liners, many airlines hired men to serve passengers. An early Eastern Airlines photo shows 14 proudly smiling stewards about to board a DC3 aircraft – which carried only about 30 passengers!
Commercial flying had, and has even today, military aspects to it, what with the hierarchy of command and a strict uniform code. However it would be odd nowadays to see a flight attendant greeting the pilot with a snappy salute, as they once did. Other early duties included loading luggage, dusting the cockpit, polishing passengers’ shoes and warning passengers about throwing lit cigarettes out of the aircraft, “particularly over populated areas.”
There was great competition for jobs in this glamorous new career. Women were chosen according to strict rules: you had to be single, under 25, slim and attractive. One airline specified that applicants must be “charming and in perfect physical condition with even teeth, clear white skin and straight, slender legs.” (For decades, stewardesses were routinely weighed before they boarded a flight.) Plus, you had to be willing to resign if you got married. Air Canada’s precursor, Trans Canada Airlines, actually mandated that applicants agree that they were not even contemplating marriage!
The (sometimes bizarre) history of the flight attendant
By Jennifer Ashton
JOURNALS | HISTORY OF THE FLIGHT ATTENDANT
Photo provided by Air Canada archives - aircanada.ca
Photo provided by Air Canada archives aircanada.ca
Photo provided by Air Canada archives aircanada.ca
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Meeting Mr. Right happened a lot, as the majority of passengers were well-to-do businessmen. Between 1953 and 1970, United Airlines offered The Executive, a flight between Chicago and New York, complete with free cigar and golf balls, available to male passengers only. No wonder the average career for an air hostess lasted only two years.
The airlines actually had to campaign to encourage women passengers to fly. First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt appeared in a print ad aimed at women, extolling the “refreshing ease and comfort” of flying, while United Airlines published a leaflet called Lines to a Lady About to Take to the Air, which answered pressing questions such as “What do I wear?” and “Are we allowed to talk?”
After World War II, air travel was becoming a bit more commonplace, if still hopelessly glamorous. The introduction of jets meant for a more comfortable, faster, quieter ride. But it still wasn’t cheap: in 1965, when the median household income in Canada was less than $6,000, a flight between Toronto and London cost $565 per person.
Then came the swinging sixties. The life of a stew was considered so exotic: Tokyo one day, Rome the next! Thousands of girls applied to be stews, but only a few were chosen. Anyone who has seen the movie Catch Me If You Can will recall the scene with Leonardo
DiCaprio, masquerading as a Pan Am pilot, striding through an airport concourse surrounded by a bevy of gorgeous stewardesses as travellers stared, agog with envy.
Back then, the airlines were closely regulated, and were unable to set their own fares or even control their routes or schedules. So with fixed fares, carriers strove to compete on service. And then executives woke up to a whole new marketing angle. Stewardesses had long been seen as the “face” of the airlines. Why not make them a little, um, sexier?
It was the era of Mad Men and it seems the stunts, not to mention the dubious taste, had no bounds. Stewardesses leered and winked out of print ads, from Australia’s Qantas staff in bathing suits to American Airlines promising “She only wants what’s good for you.” National promoted “Uniforms that purr” – of course they did, they were faux fur from top to toe – while Continental advertised “We really move our tail for you.”
Southwest Airlines unashamedly jumped on the sex bandwagon, togging out its stews in hot pants and knee-high “kinky boots.” Most bizarre of all was the Braniff International Airways’ “air strip” campaign during which stewardesses gradually took off layers of clothes as the flight progressed, down to ironically un-sexy knickerbockers.
And all that sex-in-the-air stuff was inflamed by a naughty little bestselling paperback called Coffee, Tea or Me? Written by two hostesses in 1967, it detailed much hanky panky between captains and crew, and tales of giggling, buxom stews smuggling their boyfriends on board for a free ride (doesn’t that sound like ancient history!)
By the 70s and 80s, the sex angle was racheted down as the flight attendant role was positioned as a serious career, with more emphasis on safety than sauciness. Restrictions were dropped against being
married (or being over 25, for that matter). More men were hired. And with deregulation in 1978, airlines were allowed to set their own fares, distracting executives from marketing “babes” to competing on price and frequency.
Speak to a flight attendant today and they’ll tell you their job is safety first. Sure, they still serve meals and drinks, but flying is considered a serious profession – not a way to find a husband or (gulp) show off your legs.
Photo provided by britishairways.com
Photo provided by britishairways.com
Photo provided by britishairways.com
Photo provided by britishairways.com
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TROPICANA AD
RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Where else will you find Benedict Cumberbatch walking down the
garden path with his mother, or be able to stroll through a garden created by Prince Harry’s charity organization? The U.K.’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which was founded in 1804, is a bucket-list event for any
gardener.
When to go: May 19 to 23For more info: rhs.org.uk/shows-
events/rhs-chelsea-flower-show
After a long, grey winter, we are all longing for a bit of colour in our lives. Depending on where you live in the
world, spring blooms will soon open, heralding the start of the season – if they haven’t already. Gardens around
the world celebrate these blooms, whether it be tulips, hyacinth, daffodils and other spring bulbs, or tree blossoms,
ranging from cherry to magnolia. Why not make a plan to visit one of these festivals and get your flower fix.
Shoot for the Blooms
Vancouver Cherry Blossom Festival
Some of the cherry blossoms may have bloomed a bit early this year, but that doesn’t mean this award-winning festival has been nipped in the bud. There are still plenty of trees that will be in bloom during
this month-long event, with lots of fabulous activities in store.
When to go: April 2 to 29For more info: vcbf.ca
JOIN A GROUP GARDEN TOUR
Don’t feel like planning your own itinerary? Leave it to an expert! Find a company with a small group size, but big itinerary ideas.
Join like-minded green thumbs on one of Donna Dawson’s delightful custom garden tours with a small-group feeling. This year, she’ll be headed to Chelsea in May leading a tour that includes a stop at the famous flower show, as well as other English gardens, before she’s off to Italy in June. In April 2016, Dawson will bring a group to Turkey to see the tulips. gardeningtours.com
Well-known tour company Collette offers a “Springtime Tulip River Cruise,” which takes visitors through Holland and Belgium, while “The Gardens of London” features a stop at the Chelsea Flower Show. gocollette.com
STALK THE CHERRY BLOSSOMS IN JAPAN
Find out when cherry trees are predicted to burst into bloom with the handy chart on the Japan National Tourism Organization’s site: jnto.go.jp/sakura/eng/index.php
JOURNALS | SPRING BLOOMS AROUND THE WORLD
Photo by Joseph Lin
Phot
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Photo by Tara Nolan
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HIKE THROUGH A WISTERIA TUNNEL
Goldberg On Travel (GoldbergOnTravel.com) offers a Garden Travel Package to Japan that includes visits to Kyoto, Hiroshima, Fukuoka and the Wisteria Tunnel in Kitakyushu. The 10-day package includes hotel, train transportation and a bicycle tour in Kyoto, and travel-planning assistance for $2,300. Individual departure dates.
The Canadian Tulip FestivalHead to Canada’s capital this May to see
stunning displays of tulips. One hundred thousand bulbs were gifted to Canada
from the Netherlands after World War II to thank Canadian soldiers for their help in liberating the country and to thank Canada for providing a safe haven for the Dutch Royal Family. Thousands more are added every year into colourful garden designs.
When to go: May 8 to 18For more info: tulipfestival.ca
Keukenhof HollandWant to see seven million spring-flowering bulbs in bloom? Head
to the Keukenhof, the second largest flower garden in the
world. This year, the theme is “Van Gogh,” in honour of the
famous artist who passed away 125 years ago.
When to go: March 20 to May 17 For more info: keukenhof.nl/en/
A SMALL WINDOW OF OPPORTUNITY IN BRUSSELS
Every year, the Belgian royal family throws open the doors of their extensive greenhouses and warmly welcomes the public towander through. It only costs 2.50 euros to stroll through the gorgeous 19th-century Royal Greenhouses of Laeken. This year, the gates are open April 17 to May 8. For more information, visit Brussels.be
FIND BLOOMS IN UNEXPECTED PLACES!
If you dig around a little, you’ll find other festivals and places to see gorgeous spring blooms, like Bremen, a North Sea port in Germany that is home to about 10,000 rhododendrons andazaleas. It’s called the Rhododenron Park. For more info: bremen-tourism.de/rhododendron-park
JOURNALS | SPRING BLOOMS AROUND THE WORLD
Photo by Tara Nolan
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FREE SPIRIT SPHERESThese spheres, suspended in the old-growth rainforest on Vancouver Island like giant Christmas decorations, are cosy, hand-crafted hotel rooms. Built using sailboat technology, these insulated rooms gently rock in the breeze providing a truly unique accommodation experience. freespiritspheres.com
Sleep in theQualicum Beach
British Columbia
UNIQUE & BOUTIQUE | TREETOP HOTELS
Trees
TREEHOTELDesigned by some of Scandinavia’s leading
architects, these modern cubes have been built using eco-friendly materials and feature equally
green amenities. There are several sizes of “rooms,” all with contemporary décor. A tree sauna in the
woods provides even more opportunities to relax. treehotel.se
Harads Sweden
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TREEHOUSE LODGEIn the canopy of the Peruvian jungle, on the edge of the Amazon, are several sustainably built treehouses that put you in the sightline of tropical birds, monkeys and other native fauna. Mosquito mesh protects guests from fauna they don’t want to sleep with in their well-appointed room. treehouselodge.com
Iquitos Peru
TREETOP LOFTS BY RESORTS WORLD SENTOSATwelve metres off the ground sit two spacious one-bed-room lofts with private terraces and five-star amenities.
There is no roughing it in these lodgings – a personalized butler service is ready to attend to your every need.
rwsentosa.com
Sentosa Singapore
HARAMARA RETREATHand-built cabañas at this yoga and wellness retreat offer stunning views of both the ocean and the surrounding jungle. They have also been described as the place “where Robinson Crusoe meets Architectural Digest.” Private hammocks offer respite after on-site activities. haramararetreat.com
Sayulita Mexico
UNIQUE & BOUTIQUE | TREETOP HOTELS
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Covert Affairs
’m clutching a piece of paper scribbled with an address
and nothing more. Arriving outside the location, I do
a double take. Can this be right? I’m standing in front
of an apartment building, not a restaurant. The numbers
match, so I press the buzzer and wait.
The door opens and chef Claudia Faigon stands in the
hallway, holding a glass of wine, ready to welcome me
into her apartment, a.k.a. Casa Loyola. She gives me a little
hug, and then we retreat to the garden terrace to get
acquainted with the other guests.
This is my first mystery meal with strangers in a secret
location. It feels odd, like a scene from Eyes Wide Shut,
minus the masks and kinky hookups. But this is Buenos
Aires, where underground dining is
just one way of exploring the city’s
gastronomy.
From underground eateries to
gourmet street meat, Buenos Aires
has a vibrant, ever-evolving food
culture that blends international
flavours and traditional porteño
(local) cuisine.
I
Filet de Lomo at Duhau Restaurante
Chef Faigon
Images courtesy of Claudia Faigon, Ente de Turismo BA, Algodon Mansion, Duhau Restaurante
UNCOVERING THE SECRET (AND NOT-SO-SECRET) CUISINE OF BUENOS AIRES
By Lisa Jackson
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A fiesta of flavours
When envisioning Argentine cuisine, most think of steak. It’s certainly not incorrect. You can feast on Argentine asado (barbecue), which involves meats charbroiled on a parilla (grill) or over an open fire. But there are multiple cuts and grilling methods, each with distinct tastes. For ambitious eaters, head to the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel for an asado platter of assorted steak cuts, cooked with quebracho and eucalyptus wood and served with chimichurri sauce and wood-roasted garlic cream.
Beef is only the beginning. Immigration has flavoured the city’s gastronomic culture, creating surprising fusions and signature “BA” fare. Many porteños (locals) have Italian and Spanish roots, so Mediterranean-inspired dishes are particularly bountiful.
However, don’t expect a taste transplant from the Old World. For instance, although 40 per cent of Argentines have Italian ancestry, Buenos Aires has its own pizza style. Pies are often served masa alta – a bready dough with a crispy edge, lightly dashed with tomato sauce and oozing with stringy mozzarella. And when in Buenos Aires, do like the porteños do: pair a pizza slice with a glass of moscato (dessert wine).
Underground restaurants
You can’t visit BA without supping at a puerta cerrada – a secret, “closed-door” restaurant where you can dine like a local. As with Casa Loyola, the chef hosts a small group in an intimate space – usually their home – for a specially prepared meal. It blends the experience of a traditional restaurant and a dinner party.
These underground restaurants offer some of the most memorable meals in Buenos Aires, prepared by the city’s top-ranking chefs. Usually, the restau-rant’s location is concealed until the last minute and menus aren’t shared in advance. Reservations are necessary, but it’s often an ordeal to book. Much like the dating world, you may exchange a flurry of emails and phone calls before securing a date.
At Casa Loyola, the night unfolds over a multi-course Thai feast. Chef Faigon gives an in-depth description of each dish, Argentine wines and cuisine, and where to buy ingredients. As the malbec and conversation flows, a table of strangers soon become comrades.
“I cook, imagining myself travelling throughout the world
and the seasons of the year,” she says. “I make dishes from Greece, Morocco, India, Thailand.”
Chef Faigon has loved cooking since childhood and admits that it’s her real passion in life. Formerly an architect, she studied at the Instituto Argentino de Gastronomía and now hosts suppers from her home several times a week. But Casa Loyola is one of those obscure closed-door restaurants with no website – only a Facebook page – that garners a reputation through word of mouth. I’ve managed to get a seat at her table through a mutual friend at the culinary institute.
It can be a challenge to uncover these coveted puertas cerradas because of their concealed nature. Websites like TripAdvisor can be helpful, but often don’t capture emerging chefs. The best approach is to consult the locals: ask your hotel concierge, tour guide or friend for recommenda-tions. It’s worth the trouble.
“Most tourists can’t get this experience back home,” Chef Faigon says. “Here, guests dine in a quiet, cosy place with music and art. It’s a very special experience.”
Gastro-gluttony
Other dishes to try are fugazzeta, a focaccia-like bread stuffed with cheese and baked with layers of sweet onions, and fainá, a chickpea flatbread that porteños throw atop pizza. And you must try Argentine empanadas – moon-shaped pastries
baked with savoury fillings, sold in pizzerias and specialty shops (empanaderias).
The feeding frenzy trickles onto the street, too. Outside any stadium, line up with football fanatics for a post-game choripán, a stocky sausage split
down the middle and served on a crusty bun. And don’t overlook the markets.
“Porteños love any excuse to go out to eat, so food markets are pretty popular,” says Elisa Coghlan, a local guide from Say Hueque Tours. “The Feria de Mataderos market is held every Sunday and has the most traditional dishes from different regions of Argentina.”
It’s wine o’clock
Mendoza may be the wine capital of Argentina, but in Buenos Aires, you can taste premium wines from across the country, sometimes for as cheap as $3 a bottle, without trekking outside the city.
For a stylish wine bar, there’s the Algodon Mansion – an opulent Relais & Châteaux hotel with a private wine collection produced on its own Mendoza winery. Guests receive complimentary bottles in their rooms, but anyone can sample the award-winning wines from Algodon Wine Estates in the restaurant. The best-kept secret? Head to Algodon’s rooftop bar to enjoy a cocktail (or two) and the sunset over the “old money” neighbourhood of Recoleta.
Whatever you fancy, Buenos Aires can likely satisfy the craving. The city is an endless smorgasbord for the unapologetic foodie. “Whether you’re a meat lover, light or heavy eater, vegetarian or gluten free, everyone can find their perfect place in this city,” says Coghlan. “It’s just a matter of knowing where to go.”
FOODIE FILES | BUENOS AIRES
In the past few years, Playa Hotels & Resorts has been endeavouring to evolve with a new generation of travellers.
One that seeks more adventure and cultural experiences in a warm-weather holiday, and that has a discerning palate at mealtime.
Here, Travel Life talks to Alex Stadlin, CEO of Playa Hotel management, who in 2013 was instrumental in the creation of a
partnership with Hyatt to develop a modern, all-inclusive vacation.
ALL-INCLUSIVE EVOLUTIONBY TAMMY CECCO
Q. Tell me a little bit about your background and how you got into the hotel business.A. I worked as a translator at the Olympics in Mexico in 1968 and helped a couple of the delegates arrange their travel. From there I got really hooked on the hotel business. When I was about 16 or 17, I applied to Cornell and did a graduate program. From there I started a 33-year-long career with Marriott Hotels that took me throughout the U.S. (Washington, California, Atlanta), London, Germany and Mexico before I retired. A month later, Bruce Wardinski, who was the chairman of Playa Hotels, convinced me to come back and try the all-inclusive business, which was a sector I was not familiar with. I thought it would be an exciting new challenge, so that is how I ended up as CEO of Playa Hotel management. We operate 14 hotels and I manage the operations as well as the company’s growth.
Q. So you didn’t get a chance to enjoy retirement for very long...A. That is true, however, it has been an incredible journey since joining Playa. I joined in 2008, when we were dealing with a number of challenges existing in Mexico. In 2011 the business came back and is extremely strong in the Caribbean and in Mexico in general. The future continues to look strong.
Q. With your many years in the hotel business, what would you
say have been the key changes to the industry over this time? A. Firstly, in the area of Food and Beverage, we have seen a real move away from “mass feeding.” Don’t get me wrong, there is a certain customer who likes the buffet, but I think the customers today are really looking for a different kind of experience, and to have the choice to eat when and where they desire.
The room concept has also changed from a mass concept to a more thought-out design to satisfy the needs of the customer. Each Hyatt Zilara and Hyatt Ziva resort features suites with expansive spaces and unique features, like swim-up suites. It’s all part of experiencing what we call “The Evolution of All-Inclusive.”
Q. How did the relationship between Playa Resorts and Hyatt come about?A. In 2013 we decided that if Playa Resorts really wanted to break into the big leagues, we would have to form a partnership with one of the large American chains. So, after talking with several of them, we decided that Hyatt was the best company to be working with due to the fact that their outlook for the future was very similar to ours. Hyatt was also very interested in getting into the all-inclusive resort business, which is exactly what we were looking for.
PERSPECTIVE | ALEX STADLIN
Q. What do you think Hyatt brings to the traditional all-inclusive customer?A. Firstly, it brings a certain amount of credibility and shows that all-inclusives are now a global business. It also brings new customers who might have traditionally gone to the EP (non all-inclusive) hotels who now are looking for more of a resort all-inclusive experience in the Caribbean, Mexico, the Far East and the Middle East.
Q. For the Hyatt customers who were loyal to the brand, do their benefit programs, such as Hyatt Gold Passport, apply when they stay at the all-inclusive resorts?A. Absolutely. They receive the same treatment as they would expect
at any Hyatt hotel and they can use their points to stay in one of our Playa Resorts, as well. It is a win-win situation.
Q. Can you explain what the difference is between Ziva and Zilara, the two brands you’ve created? A. Ziva caters to families and Zilara is adults-only. We are finding more and more demand for the adults-only experience, where adults can indulge in a vacation without the kids and where couples can spend quality time together. In Jamaica, we have the two products within one property. One section of the resort is branded Ziva, a great vacation experience for all ages, and the
other side of the resort is Zilara, totally self-sustained [though they have full access to Ziva’s facilities, too].
Q. Can you give me some more information on how the “Service from the Heart” concept was born? A. A couple of years ago, we bought four hotels in Mexico. The owner at the time, Fernando Garcia, explained to us that his challenge had been that some of his back-of-the-house staff were not that fluent in English and felt shy when approached by someone speaking English. So, he adopted the “from the heart” concept where the staff would put their hand over their heart as a salutation to the customer to show they were proud and that the guest was welcome in the hotel.
INFINITY POOL AT HYATT ZIVA, PUERTO VALLARTA
We have taken this action into our other properties and it has become one of our signature service concepts.
Q. How do you ensure that you keep a distinct character to each of the resorts?A. One example is that although we provide the same à la carte restaurant in all our hotels, each one will look different and have slightly different menus to provide a different feel and experience to our guests. This is one of the tasks that Hyatt gave us and it has proven to be challenging, but also a lot of fun. The automatic reaction when we are successful in a certain location is to say: “Hey, let’s duplicate this in another location,” but what we want is to provide a different experience to customers who have chosen us as a brand and been to our other locations. Each time we plan a new hotel we start from zero.
The same goes for the hotel room itself. Although we had a very successful model in Los Cabos and the easy thing to do would have been to recreate it, we want to keep improving, tweaking and sometimes dramatically changing the look to meet the needs of the market we are attracting and to bring specific local flavour so people can feel the destination they are in.
Q. What would you say are some of the unique selling features of each property? A. As I mentioned before, Jamaica has both the Ziva and Zilara brand concepts in one complex. Aside from being a premium resort in the area, when you book at the Hyatt Zilara Rose Hall, you have the option to include a round of golf in your room rate. The White Witch Golf Course is amazing, one of the best courses in the Caribbean. Los Cabos features a fantastic location, which is within walking distance of the town of San Jose de Los Cabos, the real Los Cabos, with its true
Mexican flavour. In the Puerto Vallarta property, we have a unique advantage of being able to offer a private beach, which is something that very few hotels in Mexico offer. On both sides of the property, there are rock formations that provide a natural barrier and provide a certain exclusivity of the beach to the hotel guests while being only five minutes from the iconic town of Puerto Vallarta.
In contrast, our property in Cancun is located in the heart of the action. We are equally fortunate with our location in Riviera Maya as we are located beachfront in eclectic Playa Del Carmen, just one block from 5th Avenue, which is considered the South Beach of Mexico.
Q. What would you say is the biggest challenge moving forward in the hotel business? A. The challenge of
differentiation and looking for new locations. As the customers change and new generations come into the market, they are always looking for new destinations and different types of adventure. The tradition of going to a resort and sitting on the beach for seven days is not the case for the future.
As hoteliers, we need to think outside the box and see what else can we offer to fill those seven days. Another area we have seen emerge is the spa
business, so we are planning some new initiatives in that area to pro-vide innovative concepts.
Q. Are there any future developments for Hyatt Ziva and Zilara that you are able to share with us?A. I cannot speak to the specifics, but the company is growing and growing fast. We are listening to our customers and our partners and planning to grow in both the Caribbean and other areas of Mexico.
SHAKERZ AT HYATT ZIVA, ROSE HALL, JAMAICA
BEACH CABANAS AT HYATT ZIVA, LOS CABOS
23TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
24TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
FEELING THE HEATFinland’s sauna culture offers both traditional and modern ways to sweat it outBY LISA JACKSON
It’s your first business meeting with a client. After a hectic day, your host suggests getting together after hours. But there’s a catch: it’s a social hour in the buff.
Before filing a lawsuit, remember where you are: Finland, the sauna capital of the world.
While popular in many cultures, sauna is fundamental to the Finnish national identity. In Finland, an invitation to participate in this ritual is an honour, and, in the corporate world, a good business practice. It’s normal to lounge in a steamy room with colleagues, and nudity is customary (albeit optional).
It’s estimated that 99 per cent of Finns take a sauna weekly (and even more frequently during cottage season). Many Finns have electric saunas in their apartments and the Finnish parliament even has its own sauna chamber. So when in Finland, grab a towel and seek out some heat.
A FINNISH TRADITIONFinns have practiced sauna for centuries, with the first settlers roasting rocks piled in a ditch. Water was thrown on the hot stones to exude loyly (steam).
Over time, the sauna became multifunctional. It was a bathing room during long winters, and for women, a sterile place to give birth. A sauna was also a sacred space for spiritual cleansing and marking rites of passage. Purification rituals before weddings and funerals were often performed on a sauna’s wooden benches.
The contemporary sauna still holds many purposes and applies to any freestanding structure or wood-lined room with a stove. Having a sauna can mean anything from a quick 10-minute steam session to a social event lasting several hours. For Finns, it’s a ritual that promotes health, relieves stress and chronic pain, expels toxins, and facilitates relaxation and good sleep.
Of course, each type of sauna offers a unique experience worth trying. Here are two ways to experience a Finnish sauna.
SMOKE SAUNA
SPA CORNER | FINLAND’S SAUNA CULTURE
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF FINLAND TOURISM BOARD
25TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
Rooftop Bar
THE OLD WORLD: SMOKE SAUNA AND ICE DIPSFor many Finns, the smoke sauna, which dates back to the 12th century, is the most authentic type of sauna. Modern smoke saunas are mostly found in rural areas, but also can be found at some spas and resorts.
In the Arctic, Kakslauttanen Resort (kakslauttanen.fi) has the world’s largest smoke sauna, with a capacity for 100 bathers. Over 10 hours, the fireplace is loaded with birch wood, filling the room with smoke. Once the temperature reaches 100 degrees Celsius (or more!), the fire is extinguished. Smoke disappears through a small hole in the ceiling, but the scent of singed birch still wafts in the air.
At Kakslauttanen, the ritual starts in the dressing room – a massive log cabin for disrobing and enjoying a cold drink by a crackling fire. It’s customary to shower before entering the sauna, and it’s wise to remove all metal objects – jewellery, piercings, watches – to prevent burns.
The smoke sauna itself is located in a separate hut, close to the lake. It’s chilly padding across the marshmallow-like snow, so bring socks or throw on your shoes. A burst of balmy heat welcomes bathers into the sauna. The room is dark and peaceful, illuminated with tealight candles along the wood-lined benches. The higher you sit on the benches, the more intense the heat.
An attendant picks up a ladle and tosses water onto the hot stones. There’s a hissing sound as steam fills the room. Bathers sit naked or in towels and bathing suits, quietly inhaling the sultry air. Some gently whip themselves with a vihta – a bundle of birch boughs soaked in water. It isn’t painful – the branches massage the skin and stimulate blood circulation, while releasing a pleasant aroma.
Once you’re cooking, sprint to the frozen lake for an ice dip. This sounds crazy, but the Finns swear by its health benefits. A square hole is cut into the ice, with a ladder attached. Some bathers experience numbness from high body temperatures, but I shriek as the freezing arctic water hits my body.
The ritual can be repeated or you can just lounge by the fireplace in the dressing room. Eventually, relaxation ripples throughout your body.
THE NEW WORLD: STEAM ROOMS AND INFRARED SAUNASFor a less rustic experience, there’s the Langvik Wellness Hotel (langvik.fi/en), located 30 minutes from Helsinki and overlooking the Baltic Sea. On weekends, locals venture here for spa treatments and gastronomy; businesses often hold meetings here, using the saunas for team-building exercises.
Inside Langvik’s steam room, bathers sit in an enclosed, dimly lit space on ceramic benches. There is no smoke or stove. Instead, hot steam scented with eucalyptus is pumped into the room to create humidity. For some, this offers a fresher approach to the smoke sauna.
The infrared sauna heats objects rather than the room itself. Bathers absorb the dry heat that’s popular for its touted benefits of weight loss and pain relief. Leaning back, the wooden frame on the wall is wondrously warm, soothing my aching muscles. After 30 minutes, I’m sweaty and my muscles are loose.
Instead of an ice dip, this experience offers a cool-down in the Amazon showers or one of the wading pools. Others relax on the sofa by the fireplace.
No matter which type of sauna you choose, the experience ends with the same age-old ritual: unwinding with a drink and good company. Suddenly, a Finnish sauna doesn’t seem quite so foreign.
ICE DIP
LANGVIK POOL
LANGVIK RECEPTION
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF FINLAND TOURISM BOARD; LANGVIK WELLNESS HOTEL
26TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
SIGN UP FOR A RACE!Whether you plan ahead or come across an event through serendipity, consider registering for an organized fundraising run or walk. “You’ll meet lots of locals, and you may see a different part of the city or region than you would otherwise,” says Ottawa-based travel writer and blogger Laura Byrne Paquet. Even if you’ve never done one before, you can probably do a 5K race at a leisurely pace.
HIRE A LOCAL TOUR GUIDE Many all-inclusive resorts are foreign-owned, providing few benefits to the local economy, says Tim Chan, a public relations manager with G Adventures, a sustainable tourism provider. That’s why it’s crucial to leave the resort “compound”and explore with a local tour guide. While it may seem easier to join a tour led by an expat English speaker, it’s more rewarding to explore
with someone intimately familiar with a region’s cultural traditions – and invested in the community. Lynda Felton, a Toronto-based stylist, currently on an extended trip to Oaxaca, Mexico, signed
up for a tour operated by a women’s micro-finance operation, which provides interest-free loans to indigenous women seeking to expand their own businesses. “I got to visit women in their homes and learn about their craft, the history behind it, and how they want to improve their lives,” she says.
Locally owned tour initiatives keep money flowing through the local economy, empowering individuals, particularly women, who make up the majority of the
global tourism workforce. Some of these initiatives help travellers as much as locals: The New Delhi-based Women on Wheels project, for instance, trains marginalized local women to become certified commercial chauffeurs – an option welcomed by many female solo travellers.
BY YUKI HAYASHI
WAYS TO GIVE BACK WHEN TAKING A VACATION
DONATE MEDICAL AIDCommunity health clinics in the developing world are often under-equipped with even the most basic of medical supplies like sterile needles, bandages and gauze. Do your research online; email a community health organization and ask if they’d like you to bring anything, and if so, what. Some supplies may be cheaper locally, while others are virtually inaccessible and best packed from Canada.
Visit PackForAPurpose.org for one-stop donation coordination. Check the site for destinations, local NGO wish lists and resorts where you can drop off goods for delivery.
8
1
2
3(Better yet, hire a local female tour guide)
V oluntourism trips can be very rewarding, but let’s be honest: they aren’t for everyone. Introverted personalities can find the interac-
tion exhausting. Parents with young kids may worry about keeping them occupied. Or, maybe you just don’t want to spend your vacation working. Legit responses, all. The good news is, you don’t have to build a schoolhouse to pay it forward. Here are some easy alternatives.
Top photo by Yuki Hayashi; Bottom photo by Natalie DiScala
PAY IT FORWARD | 8 WAYS TO GIVE BACK
SHOP FROM THE SOURCE“Buying directly from local artisans, women’s groups and farmers is always a big help,” says Kristy Woudstra, a Toronto web editor with a background working with development NGOs. “It’s also a great way to get to know people and the issues they face.” When you buy direct from the maker or through an artist-run collective, they earn a better wage than when selling through a souvenir shop.
DONATE SCHOOL SUPPLIES“Many hotels and tour groups in developing nations are actively involved in charitable efforts, so they may be able to help you target your giving if you email beforehand,” says Los Angeles- and Toronto-based travel blogger Natalie DiScala. That initial research can let you know if a school needs note-books and pencils from Canada, versus, say, soccer balls or books purchased locally.
CLEAN THE BEACHIf your trip doesn’t coincide with an organized beach cleanup, just grab a few trash bags and DIY. Ask a local business where to drop off the waste (don’t leave
trash bags on the beach). If you’re scuba diving or taking surfing lessons, ask your shop if they’d like to “host” the cleanup and turn it into a social event with other clients joining in.
TIP GENEROUSLY“I try to take very good care of the people who are taking care of me,” says Toronto-based travel writer Tim Johnson. From your local guide to your dive master, the hotel maid to bellhops and wait staff, it’s always appropriate to tip. Ask the concierge what’s appropriate and err on the generous side.
LOOK FOR SUPER-SHORT VOLUNTEER GIGSOn a recent trip to Utila, Honduras, my family ventured to the volunteer-run Iguana Station to learn about the island’s endangered spiny-tailed iguanas. We weren’t interested in ongoing volunteering, but said we had a few hours to help out. As it turned out, the volunteers were having difficulty catching live food for the juvenile iguanas they were raising for release into the wild. They asked if we could drive our ATV to the remote part of the island to catch land crabs and harvest termite nests for the iguanas. Done and done. (And fun!)
4
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Top photo by Natalie DiScala; Middle and bottom photos by Yuki Hayashi
suppose I could blame getting lostwithin the first half hour of being in Boston on the fact that the city is not laid out in a tidy grid. But I think it was more to do with the fact that my husband and I decided to forgo the GPS that was offered with the car rental and “kick it old school” with a paper map. My navigation skills were a little rusty. However, a couple of friendly Bostonians put us back on the right path and we made it to our hotel where we promptly ditched the luggage – and car – and set out on foot.
Famished, we pored over a printout of friends’ restaurant recommendations to see what was close and were relieved to discover a Bon Me food truck (bonmetruck.com) was literally right down the street. This meant minimal time spent refueling before setting out for the afternoon.
I love walkable cities and Beantown is definitely one of those places where you don’t really need a car. In fact,
parking spots can be hard to find and rates are atrocious – as is the traffic – so you’re better off taking the subway if your feet need a rest. Or renting a bike. A bike tour is a great way to orient oneself with the twists and turns of the city. Urban AdvenTours (urbanadventours.com), located in the North End, offers historic city excursions three times a day. If you prefer to cycle solo, the company also offers full-day rentals.
It’s amazing how much ground you can cover on two wheels. During my particular tour, as we cycled along the designated bike lanes and pathways, our energetic guide provided plenty of anecdotes and stories, such as the Canadian connection at TD Garden and the gas-lit lamps that still dot the leafy streets of Beacon Hill, home to past and present notables from Louisa May Alcott to John Kerry. We also visited famous landmarks like Fenway Park, which has retained its turn-of-the-century, movie-set charm.
Walk & Roll
BON ME FOOD TRUCK
URBAN ADVENTOURS
ROSE KENNEDY GREENWAY
I
Explore Boston on two feet or two wheels to discover its rich history and vibrant present By Tara Nolan
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KINDRA CLINEFF/MOTT (TOP); TARA NOLAN
29TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
But back to the walking. After a satisfying Vietnamese lunch, we happened upon the weekly farmers’ market in Copley Square, surrounded by some impressive buildings including the Boston Public Library (it’s worth a peek inside for the courtyard alone) and Trinity Church. The market is a great place to grab some locally sourced or grown snacks to eat in the Boston Public Garden or its adjacent neighbour, Boston Common. Both offer ample seating and lots of green space. In fact, Good Will Hunting was filmed in Boston Public Garden and one of the benches now serves as a touching fan tribute to Robin Williams.
From Boston Common, it is easy to hook up with a couple of mapped, history-laden walking routes. I managed to see several elements of both these walks (inadvertently and on purpose) over a couple of days.
TRINITY CHURCH
FARMERS’ MARKET
BOSTON COMMON
The Freedom Trail (thefreedomtrail.org) is a historic walking path that tells the story of the American Revolution. Along the route you’ll see a couple of centuries’-old burying grounds, a historic bookstore and Faneuil Hall. This last building is now a bustling marketplace surrounded by shops and restaurants. It’s a little touristy, but definitely worth a visit.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TARA NOLAN; FAY FOTO
ACORN STREET, BEACON HILL
Boston has managed to preserve some important historical buildings and sites. In fact, it’s not unusual to see men in tights and tricorne hats wandering around. That history is comfortably juxtaposed with modern buildings, shops and restaurants. Case in point: we stumbled upon Paul Revere’s house while killing time before a dinner reservation at the modern Mare Oyster Bar (mareoysterbar.com), which has a fabulous seafood menu and great ambiance. I almost missed the historic home as I was busy watching my footing on the cobblestones, but luckily I looked up! One place in this neighbourhood that you probably won’t miss, because of the ubiquitous bakery boxes, is cannoli central, aka Mike’s Pastry, on Hanover Street.
The other walking route, which encompasses four centuries of history, is Walk to the Sea (walktothesea.com). A highlight for me was the Rose Kennedy Greenway, a former elevated expressway that is now a series of contemporary parks. I couldn’t resist the $3 Greenway Carousel
with its vibrant, colourful depictions of native Massachusetts wildlife, brought to life by sculptor Jeff Briggs. I had my eye on the sea turtle, but two girls behind me in line were fighting over it, so I settled for the fox.
From the Greenway, it’s easy to access the New England Aquarium to learn about ocean conservation and come face to face with a sea turtle, and explore the surrounding wharves.
Another great walking route I would recommend starts at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (gardnermuseum.org). Ms. Gardner was a passionate collector with an eclectic sense of design. The result is a treasure trove of art and artifacts, and a magical courtyard that changes seasonally.
From the museum, take a walk along the Back Bay Fen, part of the Emerald Necklace park system (emeraldnecklace.org) designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted of Central Park fame. This will lead you to the back of the Museum of Fine Arts (mfa.org), which provides an interestingly stark contrast to Isabella Stewart Gardner’s property.
If you’d like to partake in a little consumerism after your cultural experience, head to Newbury Street, which is bustling with shops and restaurants.
I’m going to be honest. I did a lot of walking. Despite my achy feet, the appeal of exploring on two feet and two wheels was discovering hidden gems that weren’t on the itinerary and really getting a sense of what this vibrant city is all about.
Across the Charles River, Cambridge
retains that quaint, collegiate
atmosphere depicted in the
movies. Cambridge Historical Tours
(cambridgehistoricaltours.org)
offers visits to both Harvard and
MIT. I took the Harvard tour and
was pleasantly surprised by our
in-character actor guide.
Wandering around campus, I would
not have known which ventilation
shaft to stop at and catch a whiff
of the old books housed in the
subterranean library, or the
interesting story surrounding the
statue of John Harvard.
There are plenty of shops and
cafes, but for lunch, I decided to
check out Clover Food Lab
(www.cloverfoodlab.com), which
offers up its organic, healthy
version of fast food.
THE FREEDOM TRAIL
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
THE GREENWAY CAROUSEL
CLOVER FOOD LAB
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TARA NOLAN; MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON
Cambridge Calls
31TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
32TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
Do North
CapeAnn
BOSTON CapeCod
AFTER VISITING BOSTON,
BE SURE TO SPEND TIME IN
CAPE ANN TO UNWIND IN A
RELAXED SEASIDE SETTING.
LEARN ABOUT MARITIME HISTORYCape Ann is understandably tied to the sea – it’s almost completely surrounded by water – and celebrates its maritime history. At its heart is Gloucester, America’s oldest seaport. When you drive into the city along the scenic waterfront, you’ll pass two monuments: the Gloucester Fishermen’s Wives Memorial, which honours the wives of fishermen and sailors lost at sea, and the Fisherman’s Memorial and cenotaph, dedicated to the memory of all Gloucester fishermen who have perished over the years.
EXPLORE THE BEACHESThere are numerous beaches around the coast, from the pristine white sands of Singing Beach in Manchester-By-The-Sea to the easily accessible Front Beach in downtown Rockport. Before you head to any of the Cape’s beaches by car, be aware that the parking may be reserved strictly for residents. Some beaches offer parking lots for out-of-towners that charge a fee, while others require that you park a distance away and then walk to the shore.
For an idyllic, picturesque contrast to the
hubbub of Boston, Cape Ann offers a more
relaxing escape. Think windswept walks
along the beach, historic lighthouses,
laid-back seafood feasts and noteworthy
attractions. It’s also ideally located, a mere
30 to 40 miles away from the city. Many
refer to Cape Ann as the “other Cape” and
indeed it seems to be one of those rare
gems that enjoys a healthy, seasonal influx
of visitors and summer residents, but
that isn’t completely overrun and
commercialized.
Here are a few suggestions of what you can
do – at your leisure, of course!
BY TARA NOLAN
GLOUCESTER FISHERMAN’S MEMORIAL
Photography: Tim Grafft/MOTT; Tara Nolan
33TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
ENJOY THE SUNRISECape Ann’s Marina Resort has a perfectly situated patio that overlooks the marina on the Annisquam River. You might even run into some of the cast from the National Geographic Channel’s Wicked Tuna series, which is partially filmed onsite. capeannmarina.com
GET YOUR CAFFEINE FIXIf you’re heading out for the day and need a coffee and muffin to go, the Lone Gull Coffeehouse, right in the heart of Gloucester, has a cosy, local vibe.lonegullcoffeehouse.com
SAVOUR AN ALFRESCO LUNCHBear Skin Neck in Rockport features little studios, galleries and antique shops, but in between you’ll find restaurants serving everything from fried clam strips to lobster rolls. Keep an eye out for home-made ice cream for dessert and saltwater taffy to enjoy on the beach.bearskinneck.net
DINE ON THE GLOUCESTER HARBORThe Seaport Grille’s deck is heated, so even on chilly evenings, you can enjoy the waterfront view while dining from the seafood-laden menu. The restaurant also has a boat that offers themed harbour cruises like jazz brunches and clambake luncheons. cruiseportgloucester.com/seaportgrille
DISCOVER THE FOUNDATION OF AMERICAN INTERIOR DESIGNTucked among the stately summer homes in Gloucester Harbor lies the wonderfully unique Sleeper-McCann House, also referred to as Beauport. The home remains almost completely untouched since its original owner, Henry Davis Sleeper, one of America’s first professional interior designers, used it as a living portfolio. Sleeper had a knack for integrating salvaged pieces into his rooms, as well as for his arrangements of various collections, from coloured glass to books.historicnewengland.org/beauport
WHALE WATCHING IN GLOUCESTERCape Ann Whale Watch bills itself as the longest-running whale watch company north of Boston. The company, which was founded in 1979, is also a member of the World Cetacean Alliance, an organization that promotes responsible whale and dolphin watching. Educators on the boat teach eager visitors about the whales and the importance of conservation. Though they guarantee whale sightings, visitors are allowed to return for free until they spot one of the giant marine mammals that frequent the popular feeding grounds off the coast of Cape Ann. seethewhales.com
SHOP FOR LOCAL PRODUCTSRocky Neck Art Colony, one of the oldest in the United States, is a neat little peninsular haven of eclectic shops, studios and galleries. Here you can search for handmade items, from original artwork to textiles and jewelry, from the artisans who live there.
Cape Ann Brewing Company is a family-owned business that offers free tours and allows you to sample the brewery’s award-winning craft beers. You can also enjoy live music while munching on pub fare. rockyneckartcolony.org and capeannbrewing.com
CAPE ANN E A T S
HERE’S WHERE
TO GO TO:
BEAR SKIN NECK
WHALE WATCH, GLOUCESTER
CAPE ANN MARINA
CAPE ANN LOBSTER
Photography: Fred Goodwin; Tara Nolan; Rich Auger
OCEAN-FRONT DINING AT BEAUPORT
34TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
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35TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
Walk into a pub in Ireland and ask for a beer without specifying the brand and chances are you’ll be served a Guinness. It’s only natural you’d get this Irish stout re-nowned for its distinctive, malty flavour, dark colour and smooth, creamy head. Roughly one in two pints consumed in Ireland every day is a Guinness, making it one of the most popular brews.
Ever since Arthur Guinness took over the vacant St. James’s Gate Brewery in Dublin in 1759 and developed his own recipe based on a black ale produced in London called porter (so named because it was popular with porters at Covent Garden Market), Guinness beer has had a steady and loyal following. More than two centuries later, it has grown to become the best-selling stout in the world with 10 million glasses sold every day in 150 countries.
IT’S GUINNESS TIME
-----------------------B Y D I A N E S L A W Y C H
Arthur's Bar / guinness-storehouse.com
DISCOVERIES | ITS GUINNESS TIME
36TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
Yet Guinness, as any visitor to Ireland quickly learns, is more than a beer; it’s an institution with tentacles reaching into Irish culture, sports, history and more.
At the Old Library of Trinity College Dublin, for example, you can see the famous 14th-century Irish harp known as the “O’Neill” or “Brian Boru” harp, which has served as an emblem on Guinness labels since 1862. The harp later became the official national emblem of the Republic of Ireland and can be found on the Republic’s coinage.
The Guinness family has a long history of philanthropy. At Ireland’s largest church, St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, where Handel’s Messiah was first performed, guides explain how the building had fallen into terrible disrepair by the 1800s, until Sir Benjamin Guinness paid for costly renovations. As a token of gratitude, the Guinness crest – a boar – appears on the tiled floors near the altar.
Just east of the beautiful park known as St. Stephen’s Green – another Guinness family gift to the public – is the Georgian district with its elegant, terraced 18th-century townhouses distinguished by stuccowork and colourful, elaborate doorways. One of them is a lovely boutique hotel: the Pembroke Townhouse. Every evening in the lobby, which resembles a comfortable, 18th-century sitting room, the hotel sets out a different cake for its guests, including a
chocolate Guinness cake. Its made with 330 millilitres of Guinness and topped with Baileys icing that the hotel’s Fiona Teehan says resembles a pint of Guinness! Some visitors call it divine.
More Guinness connections are revealed on travels around Ireland. At historic St. George’s market in Belfast – regularly voted one of the best food markets in the U.K. – there’s a dark Guinness bread that you can sample or purchase (try it with Irish smoked salmon). Elsewhere, on a day trip from Dublin to Glendalough and Kilkenny with Wild Rover Tours, there’s a photo stop at the Wicklow Mountains, the source of eight million litres of fresh water that flows into the Guinness brewery every day. Guinness has also sponsored various cultural and sporting events, including the Hurling Championships in Ireland.
THE GUINNESS STOREHOUSE For fans, the ultimate destination is the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, Ireland’s number one tourist attraction, which brought in a record 1,156,985 visitors last year, including Hollywood actor Tom Cruise.
Set amidst several historic red brick buildings and cobblestone streets where horse-drawn carriages await their next customers, the former fermentation plant opened in 2000 as a seven-storey visitor experience dedicated to the history and making of the world-famous beer.
The tour (free audio guides are available) begins on the ground floor at the bottom of the world’s largest pint glass, where you glance down at a copy of the famous 9,000-year lease that founder Arthur Guinness signed on the St. James’s Gate Brewery. It ends hours later on the seventh floor at what many consider a highlight – the Gravity Bar, where one can redeem a complimentary pint while enjoying a 360-degree panoramic view of Dublin from a light-filled, glassed-in enclosure.
Photos courtesy of guinness-storehouse.com
Phot
o by
Dia
ne S
law
ych
The four main ingredients of Guinness: water, hops, barley and yeast.
The floors in between contain displays of the four natural ingredients – water, barley, hops and yeast – that are combined to make Guinness stout, and an answer to a common question: How does Guinness get its ruby red colour? (It’s the roasted barley).
There’s an exhibit on the most highly skilled of all the brewery craftsmen – the coopers who made the wooden barrels, which were used to transport Guinness stout across the globe – and another on award-winning Guinness advertisements. These include early posters with slogans, such as “Guinness for Strength” and “Guinness is Good for You,” which extolled the beer’s supposed health benefits.
There’s also a legend that Guinness aided the recovery of a cavalry officer wounded in the Battle of Waterloo. Author Robert Louis Stevenson, who brought supplies of Guinness to Western Samoa in 1893, wrote about drinking a pint while recovering from influenza. These days, both ads and guides steer away from making any health claims.
The Storehouse is crammed with fascinating exhibits and some experiential opportunities, too, such as the Guinness Academy where you can learn how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness in six easy steps (hint: it takes 125.27 seconds to pour and serve Guinness draught) and receive a certificate that proves you’ve mastered the craft.
Want to tantalize the senses? Just proceed through the neon-lit entrance to the all-white Tasting Rooms, or enjoy the classic beef and Guinness stew in the 18th-century-inspired Brewers Dining Hall on the fifth floor, where you can also pick up free recipe cards.
Aficionados may be particularly interested in the exclusive Guinness Connoisseur Bar experience offering
tastings of the four most popular variants of Guinness: Draught, Original, Foreign Extra Stout and Black Lager.
The Guinness Storehouse is more than a brewery museum. The
structure itself is architecturally significant, as it’s the first major steel-framed, multi-storey building in the British Isles (modelled after the Chicago School). And where else can you get your own personalized bottle of Guinness Foreign Extra Stout (try the Guinness Store) or enjoy the view from Dublin’s highest bar? Admittedly, the 46-metre-high Gravity Bar is not all that tall, but still, it offers unrivalled views of city landmarks, including some that have benefited from Guinness family largesse.
DID YOU KNOW: One in two Dublin tourists visit the Guinness Storehouse.
Three million pints of Guinness are brewed every day at Dublin’s St James’s Gate brewery – the biggest stout export brewery and one of the most technologically advanced in the world.
In 1909, Guinness was brought to the frozen lands of the South Pole. Australian explorer Sir Douglas Mawson left some Guinness behind at his base camp, which was discovered by another expedition in 1927.
There are about 198 calories in a pint of Guinness – less than in a pint of orange juice.
IF YOU GO: The Morrison, A Doubletree by Hilton Hotel, is a stylish 138-room boutique property, which was fully refurbished in the past year, and is an ideal base while in Dublin. Located on the banks of the River Liffey in the heart of the city near 25 attractions, it’s within walking distance of the Guinness Storehouse and just steps from the lively Temple Bar area with plenty of pubs and free nightly street entertainment. In staying true to their legacy of supporting new Irish talent, the hotel’s lobby and rooms were redesigned by leading Irish architect Nikki O’Donnell, while the hotel’s Quay 14 bar features up-and-coming local bands.
A lot of hotels boast of excellent service, but The Morrison actually delivers, with its team of knowledgeable, courteous and helpful staff, who consistently exceed guest expecta-tions. “Would you like some pastries to take with you?” the server at the hotel’s Halo restaurant inquired when a guest returned to fill up her water bottle. The quiet, comfortable hotel with complimentary Wi-Fi has another bonus: freshly baked cookies upon check-in (a Doubletree staple). For more information, visit: morrisonhotel.ie.
If travelling to the Guinness Storehouse on foot, try the Guinness Storehouse iWalk – a free audio walking tour available for download. The tour guides visitors from the heart of Dublin to the heart of Guinness. For more information, check guinness-storehouse.com.
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Photos courtesy of guinness-storehouse.com
38TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
ITALY: WALKING AND WINE
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY JENNIFER ASHTON
39TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
DISCOVERIES | ITALY: WALKING AND WINE
Do we need waterproof bottoms?” Linda, the retired school teacher from England, asked. My sister and I exchanged glances, rapidly translating the query into Canadian English. Rain pants? Really? Perhaps we’d bitten off more than we could chew.
It was, after all, the first day of our group walking tour in Italy and we weren’t too sure what to expect. What we did know was that we were sitting in a lovely villa in Tuscany in the company of 14 fellow travellers, a mixed bag of couples and singles, mainly British, but also a couple of South Africans and a New Zealander. Brits, we knew, are famous for striding around mountains in all sorts of weather. Would we be up to the challenge?
As it turned out, we were up to it all: not just the walking to medieval villages, past olive groves and through the bustling, charmed streets of Greve. We coped well with the three wine-tastings and getting lost in Florence’s leather market. We managed night after night of fresh, simple, delicious food – always accompanied by lively conversation sprinkled with gusts of laughter.
The tour was the week-long Chianti: Walking and Wine, offered by British tour company Exodus Holidays. Exodus specializes in independent and small group trips, often with themes such as biking, hiking, family or wildlife. Common to all trips are the eco-friendly components: use of local transport (where practical), dining at and staying in small, locally owned businesses, employment of local staff, and respect for culture.
For this itinerary, we were based in the 150-year-old, antique-filled Relais Villa Casalta located a 20-minute walk from the village of Castellina in Chianti. An inn with 18 rooms, a resident dog and pleasing views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside, it offered the atmospheric charm we were looking for.
Our first dinner was at the villa, and as we were all trying to figure each other out (Jane’s the vet; Johann’s the banker; Helen’s in technology; Peter’s the retired civil servant), our guide Ali gave us a rundown on what to expect. This was an invaluable briefing explaining how the days would roll out, how the meals would work and so on. Each evening thereafter he’d get our attention for 10 minutes to explain the next day, what to wear and pack in our day packs, how much free time there’d be, and what to keep an eye out for.
The itinerary was a just-right combination of walking days, usually featuring lunch in a delightful village, plus days when we were driven in our overgrown minibus to three of Tuscany’s must-sees: Florence, Siena and San Gimignano. There was one free day during which Ali arranged for a cooking class for some and a visit to local thermal baths for others. If you really wanted, you were welcome to veg by the villa’s pool.
It quickly became apparent to us that we were being treated like adults rather than being hand-held like children throughout the week. If you wanted to skip a day and hang out at the villa, that was okay.
Photo courtesy of exodustravels.com
41TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
GOOD TO KNOWExodus includes the option to fly out of the U.K. on a flight with members of your group, which is handy, as the tour leader will meet the flight at the airport and at the end o f your holiday, drop you off there. Or, if you can make your way to that local airport – we travelled by train from Rome to Pisa Airport to meet the incoming group – they’ll transfer you to the hotel or inn at no extra charge.
The company is very popular with solo travellers, particularly women (a whopping 62 per cent of their entire clientele according to their Canadian manager Sharmil Goswami). Women love the security and small-group camaraderie (as one in our group put it: “It’s like a dinner party every night!”). It’s not uncommon for travellers like my sister and me to leave our husbands at home. Exodus offers a single match-up program and will room you with someone of the same sex, or you can pay a single supplement, in Europe, for example a very reasonable $10 to $20 Cdn per night.
The av away from your host hotel, Exodus has a simple, perfect solution: the group leader hands out a fixed amount of cash to everyone. At the end of the meal if you ate more than your “allowance,” you top it up. If less, you pocket the change.
Want to meet your travelling companions before you even get on the plane? You can, once you have booked with Exodus in their Departure Lounge online forum.
Book through your favourite travel agent, or Exodus (exodustravels.com; 800-267-3347) has an office in Canada which can help you with any of their 500+ itineraries to 90 countries on seven continents.
Or we’d be told something like this: “Tomorrow we’re all going to Siena. I’ll give you an over-view of the city and then you’ll have four hours free time.
Don’t forget to sit down in the square and enjoy the atmosphere!”
Something that we hadn’t anticipated and which proved an unforgettable highlight was the chance to stroll along, taking in the stunning countryside and becoming acquainted with other group members who were as interesting as they were diverse. (This proved identical on a subsequent Exodus walking tour to Puglia and Basilicata in southern Italy where our companions were also well-educated and well-travelled, but not snobby.) It was fascinating
DISCOVERIES | ITALY: WALKING AND WINE
to compare favourite movies with a Scottish nurse for 20 minutes, then find yourself alongside a Cape Town lawyer, chatting about recycling programs in South Africa.
Fun, fellowship, great food – and all the details taken care of (even the scenery). Not surprisingly, we’ve booked our third Exodus walking holiday in Italy. And we’ve yet to need waterproof bottoms!
42TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
THE JEWELS OF CENTRAL AMERICA
From some of the best dive spots on earth to the lushest jungles in this hemisphere, Central
America packs a punch with the diversity of travel experiences available.
You will find a playground for the adventure enthusiast, a wonderland for the curious and
the perfect escape for those in search of roads less travelled.
Travel Life shares some quintessential travel ideas in our guide to the Jewels of Central America.
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From charming, colonial towns and spectacular, ancient Mayan cities, to pristine, natural wonders filled with adventure and wildlife, Central America’s best-kept secret – Guatemala – has much to offer travellers. Home of the most Mayan ruins in the world, over 30 volcanoes, more than 720 species of birds, and even dubbed “Billfish Capital of the World,” Guatemala showcases a long list of unique travel experiences. Here are the seven must-have experiences when visiting:
7
ANTIGUARich in history and architectural charm, the vibrant, colonial city of Antigua takes visitors back in time. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979, the city dates back to the early 16th century and today still boasts fantastic characteristics of that era with its cobblestone streets, decorative fountains, colourful buildings and baroque-style churches. The Church of La Merced, for example, is distinguished for its white stucco designs set against a yellow façade.
Tip: Visit the ChocoMuseo to roast cacao beans and make Mayan chocolate while learning about the history of the super food. Later, sit by the Parque Central and mingle with locals while enjoying a tamalito (tamale). For an adventurous journey, hike to the Acatenango Volcano (a six-hour walk). The view above the clouds will make the challenging trek worth it.
Stay: Casa Santo Domingo (casasantodomingo.com.gt), a five-star hotel and museum located on the grounds of the Santo Domingo Monastery.
Guatemala
Antigua
SPONSORED CONTENT
M U S T - D O S
Tikal National Park is one of those places that merits at least two visits during a lifetime. The adventure begins in the jungle, trekking through lush vegetation while becoming acquainted with Guatemala’s nature sounds. Once the giant ruins of this national park and UNESCO World Heritage site appear, visitors are transported to ancient times. Tikal, once a major Mayan city, houses temples, palaces and remains of dwellings that can leave even the most avid traveller speechless. The area protects 22,100 hectares of rainforest and 54 species of mammals, including spider monkeys, jaguars, anteaters and deer.
Tip: To get the best seat in the house, get to the park in
time to experience the sunrise atop temple IV, the largest structure (approximately 230 feet) in Tikal, which provides a magnificent view of the jungle. How to experience it: The town of Flores is located approximately 45 minutes from the park’s entrance. Guided tours are available and shuttle services begin at 4:30 a.m.
LAKE ATITLÁNCentral America’s deepest lake, Atitlán was created by a massive volcanic explosion. In his book, Beyond the Mexique Bay, English writer Aldous Huxley called Atitlán, “…too much of a good thing.” Indeed, the expansive lake is surrounded by breathtaking views of volcanos and 15 distinct indigenous towns (all with biblical names).
Tip: For great views without too much physical strain, visitors are encouraged to take a hike from the San Marcos village. The village is known for its “hippie” community, where yoga and meditation are often practiced.
How to experience it: Step into a hand-carved canoe to explore the lake. For local crafts, visit the shops of Panajachel.
San Andres Xecul
Lake Atitlán
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK
Tikal
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Arco Santa Catalina, antigua Guatemala
Castillo San Felipe, Rio Dulce
RIO DULCERio Dulce is a popular boating destination located in the department of Izabal. At the mouth of the river stands a small Spanish fort, the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, which served as protection from pirates entering from the Caribbean when the city was an important trade destination in 1644.
Tip: There is a small, family-owned hideaway approxi-mately halfway between Rio Dulce town and Livingston called Finca Tatin (fincatatin.centramerica.com). The hotel blends in with the natural foliage and treats guests to hammocks, bungalow-style rooms and home-cooked meals.
How to experience it: Rio Dulce promises a serene retreat. While navigating its waters, visitors encounter a myriad of tropical birds and turtles basking in the sun. Kayak around the vast networks of lagoons surrounding the river, a sanctuary for manatees and wildlife.
QUIRIGUÁQuiriguá is an ancient Mayan archaeological site that holds the tallest stelae (stone sculptures) erected in the New World. Also a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is easy to navigate and can be explored in just two hours. The enigmatic relics found at Quiriguá tell tales of ancient rulers, deities and rivalries.
Tip: The Jade Museum and shop is a hit for those visiting by cruise.
How to experience it: The ruins are within walking distance from the village of Quiriguá or Los Amates. The scenic walk takes visitors through banana fields and the entrance to the site will cost approximately $10.
Quiriguá
YAXHAYaxha, made famous during the hit TV show, Survivor, is a lakeside archaeological site that is home to more than 500 structures that live in perfect harmony with their natural surroundings. One of Yaxha’s main attractions is its blue-green lagoon, which reflects the colour of the sky and lush vegetation.
Tip: The historic information available at the park for each complex is thorough and helpful; park keepers are so knowledgeable that visitors won’t need an additional guide.
How to experience it: Yaxha’s lake can be seen from atop temple 216, the highest of the site. Also, Yaxha is the perfect ending to a Guatemalan vacation as the trip only takes a day and the ruins are not as busy as Tikal. Sometimes travellers have the place all to themselves.
PACAYA VOLCANOWalk across a cooling lava bed and cook marshmallows over the hot rocks as the sun sets. This half-day excursion from Antigua is one of Guatemala’s most talked about experiences. Pacaya is Guatemala’s most active volcano rising 8,373 feet above sea level.
Tip: Afternoon climbs will guarantee the best views since the mornings are usually filled with fog.
How to experience it: Set out from Antigua (approxi-mately a one-hour ride) to the village under the volcano. The climb is not rigorous and can be completed in about two and a half hours. Stunning views of the Agua, Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes can be seen throughout the hike.
For more information on how to discover the beauty of Guatemala, visit
GUATEMALA.COM
There are many airlines offering flights out of Canada to get to Guatemala:
HOW TO GET THERE
Air Canada Avianca American Airlines
United Airlines US Airways Aeromexico
Pacaya Volcano
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Seventy feet under the Caribbean Sea, in the waters off Roatan, Honduras, we sit on the sandy clearing, our backs to a tall bank of coral. With our chunky oxygen tanks and regulators, we are alien invaders: heavy, ungraceful. Our bubbles rise up through the turquoise depths towards the glinting sunlight that pierces the water column high above us. Herded, we divers sit still, hands close to bodies, scanning the blue. Waiting.
THE LIFE AQUATIC DISCOVER ROATAN’S TREASURES BOTH
UNDERWATER AND ON DRY LANDBY YUKI HAYASHI
The dive master takes the lid off a bucket weighted with chunks of bonito. Cloudy water wafts out. It takes just a minute, maybe less. Soon, a dozen six- to nine-foot-long Caribbean reef sharks are circling us, sleek as torpedoes, fast as quicksilver, graceful as cats.
Horrifyingly, two of them are sporting big, ugly hooks, which dangle from their mouths. Although sustainable fishing practices are in place in many
parts of Roatan, to help preserve the island’s rich marine biodiversity, humans mean danger for the sharks. But the sharks pose no danger to us: we watch, entranced, as these beautiful fish swim around us. When the bucket contents are gone, they disappear.
Afterwards, on the dive boat, we snack on local watermelon and papaya, daydreaming about our next dives.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANTHONY’S KEY RESORT
JEWELS OF CENTRAL AMERICA | DISCOVER ROATAN’S TREASURES
A DIVER’S PARADISERoatan, the largest of the seven Bay Islands of Honduras, lies off the north coast of the Honduran mainland. Situated on the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef – second in sheer size and biodiversity only to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef – it’s a place where you can power your way through a diver’s bucket list in one sun-drenched week. Roatan’s crystal-clear waters are home to barrel sponges the size of wine barrels, as well as a wish list of marine life: sharks, sea turtles, eagle and manta rays, grouper, eels, and dolphins.
While dolphins are endemic to the region, if you want a sure thing, Anthony’s Key Resort on Sandy Bay, has resident dolphins. Technically a captive population, they live in a huge lagoon with natural fringing reef, beds of sea grass and regular access to the open sea. They choose to return “home” because that’s where the food is. Anthony’s Key offers dolphin dives and snorkelling, as well as a week-long Dolphin Scuba Camp for kids.
Besides wildlife, Roatan boasts jaw-dropping drift dives, canyon dives, deep dives and wreck diving. One of the most memorable of the handful of wrecks is El Aguila, a 75-metre-long cargo ship that rests approximately 110 feet down.
As we descended in search of El Aguila’s secrets, the water turned progressively deeper hues of green, until we could no longer see the surface or the sunlight. Eventually, the hulking mass of the wreck emerged into focus. Colourful reef fish grazed in coral gardens. As we sank further below, the coral disappeared and large Nassau groupers floated like balloons.
As I am not a fan of deep dives, I started my mantra: “Stay calm, stay calm, stay calm…what the hell?!” A six-foot-long green moray eel is not what you want to see making an excited beeline
towards you, at depth. Alarmed, my husband and I retreated. This hadn’t been covered in the pre-dive talk.
The moray chose not to follow us, and instead headed for our dive master, who was kneeling on the sand, helping a student diver fix her mask. The moray snaked around his legs, its face lingering near his head. He paused to look at it, then went back to his student. It hovered, eventually returning to the wreck, undulating through the water like a long green scarf. (Afterwards, on the boat, the dive master said the eel had started approaching people a few months before, presumably because someone from one of the other dive shops had started feeding him.)
As for El Aguila herself, she’s a beautiful wreck, with swim throughs and scores of wildlife, from solitary squirrelfish and eels, to schools of baitfish and decorative soft coral.
TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONSWith so much going on under the surface, topside attractions might pale by comparison, right? Not really.
If you want to lounge in the sun, head to humming West Bay. While resort-heavy, the beaches are public, and for a nominal fee you can rent a lounger and access a resort swimming pool. (Mind you, you could save yourself the trip and just stay at a West Bay resort like the Mayan Princess Beach & Dive Resort, which has its own onsite dive shop). Swim out to the reef and snorkel, or rent a stand-up paddleboard. Or, grab a cerveza and munch on a plata tipical at one of the beachside restaurants.
West End is home to the island’s restaurant row, where you can spend a little or a lot. West End also hosts several of the island’s dive shops, including Hammerhead Dive Center, a new
operation known for its valet approach to diving (small groups, personalized service, no “cattle boats” jam-packed with divers).
Adventure seekers can zipline at Gumbalimba Park, taking in panoramic views of the rainforest canopy and sea. Afterwards, enjoy a cold drink by the pool or walk to the monkey forest, where free-roaming capuchins may descend on you from the trees. (Literally: I had two monkeys stalk, then jump onto me. Fun, but also a bit scary.) Because Gumbalimba is a mainstay for cruise ship day-trippers, check online and visit on a non-cruise ship day, as the park is best enjoyed when quiet – the monkeys are friendliest then, too.
Sundowners on the beach are the best way to cap the day. You may be tempted to sign up for a night dive, but the smart money’s on piña coladas chased by local snapper and plantain chips. You’ve got a full day in the water tomorrow, right?
T R A V E L I N F O
Major airlines fly into Roatan via Miami and Houston, while Sunwing flies direct from Toronto during the high season (into April). Book a shark dive through Waihuka Dive Center, which operates out of Coxen Hole. Coxen Hole is worth a daytime visit for cut-rate souvenirs and delicious street food, but is best avoided at night. Although Roatan is generally safe for tourists, ask resort desk staff what areas to avoid after dark, take cabs rather than walking after dark, and avoid flashing expensive watches, jewelry or cameras.
PHOTO BY YUKI HAYASHI PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANTHONY’S KEY RESORT
54TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
MYSTERY OF THE MAYACENTRAL AMERICA IS A GATEWAY TO THE RICH PAST OF THE MAYAN WORLD
BY TABATHA FERNANDEZ-SARDINA
Of the mysteries hiding in the Central
American jungle, unquestionably the most
enigmatic is that of the Maya. A mighty
civilization, the Maya were the undisputed
masters of their rainforest world – until they
disappeared without a trace. Their heyday,
known as the Classic Period, was one of
the most technologically advanced in
Mesoamerican history, leaving archaeologists
marvelling over their grasp of agriculture,
astronomy, botany and engineering.
Perhaps the most recognizable legacies of the
Maya are their carefully crafted temples. Carved
out of limestone and outlasting millennia of
creeping jungle, these monoliths stand witness
to the greatness of this ancient civilization.
COPÁN PHOTO IS COURTESY OF THE INSTITUTE OF HONDURAS TOURISM
55TRAVELLIFE 2015 |
BUT, WHERE ARE THEIR KEEPERS? While theories abound, there is no conclusive answer as to what caused
the disappearance of the Maya. Some say famine, others disease. Others
say that the Maya never disappeared at all and simply abandoned their
cities and temples for a more rural life.
Canadians visiting Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras are
forgiven for believing the latter theory. Even a short stopover in any of
these destinations will introduce you to the descendants of the Maya, as
friendly and engaging a people as their ancestors were fierce.
CONNECTING TO MAYAN CULTUREChances to meet modern Maya abound – with over 40 per cent of
Guatemalans having Maya ancestry, and upwards of six million people
speaking a variety of Mayan dialects. Even the most casual of visitors
to Central America will have the opportunity to experience this vibrant
culture.
With over 2.3 million Maya speakers in Guatemala alone, the Maya dialect
of K’iche’ is as prevalent as the brightly coloured huipil gowns still woven
by Guatemalan women. For travellers looking for souvenirs, a hand-
woven huipil is a unique opportunity to bring a piece of living history
back home for friends and family to marvel at.
Frequently featuring animal motifs, huipil gowns are painstakingly picked
out on hand looms. Designs are community-specific, with each village
having a particular design passed down through generations. Examples
of historical huipil have been identified from etchings in royal tombs,
including those of two queens – Lady Une' B'alam in AD 317, and the
Queen known only by the enigmatic moniker Lady of Tikal in AD 511.
Both queen ruled over the city of Tikal, now conveniently located only
about 96 kilometres
from the island city of
Flores, Guatemala, itself
a cobblestoned relic of
the distant colonial past.
With a variety of hotels to
choose from, and tours
departing frequently
for the Tikal ruins, Flores
makes the perfect base
for a Guatemalan jungle
adventure. While in town,
don’t forget to check out
Ak’tun Kan, also known as
the Serpent’s Caves. This
ancient cave system is
home to curious geological
formations, many of which resemble animals and people.
SACRED BIRDS IN GUATEMALADue to its relative remoteness compared to more popular Maya sites like
Tulum and Chichen Itza, Tikal is a Canadian traveller’s best bet to discover an
authentic Maya experience. An active archaeological site, the area has been
partially reclaimed by the rainforest, offering bird-watching vacationers a rare
opportunity to sight the rainbow-plumed quetzal – sacred bird of the Maya
and the avatar of Quetzcoatl (the God of Air) – in its natural habitat.
Considered the harbinger of the gods, it was illegal to injure a quetzal. The
Maya held this iridescent bird in high esteem and it comes as no surprise that
the tradition continues to this day. The quetzal, depicted so vividly in ancient
carvings, has now become the National Bird of Guatemala, and the name of
the local currency.
For just a few quetzals, intrepid adventurers can take local microbuses from
the town of Quiché, Guatemala, to the ruins of K’umarcaaj, an ancient Maya
city still revered as a holy site. Impressively, descendants of the original
inhabitants still attend religious ceremonies at the temple. Tourists are
encouraged to ask permission from the guards before entering the site due
to its religious and archaeological significance. Canadian travellers are also
advised that the area is off the beaten track and facilities may be more rustic
than the average resort. However, K’umarcaaj is sure to be a highlight for
trekkers looking for true adventure.
TIKAL
JEWELS OF CENTRAL AMERICA | MYSTERY OF THE MAYA
IXCH
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TRADITIONAL COSTUMES
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BELIZE, THE LAND OF JADE
Though famous for its world-renowned diving, Belize is also home to
numerous Maya ruins, most notably Altun Ha. Featured on the Belikin beer
label – as well as on Belizean bank notes – the Temple of the Masonry
Altars is arguably one of the most recognizable Central American Mayan
ruins. Along with its sister site, the Temple of the Green Tomb, the Altun
Ha complex has been painstakingly restored by the Belizean government.
Conveniently located just 56 kilometres from Belize City, the site boasts
modern washrooms and refreshment stands, and is wheelchair accessible.
Historically minded readers take note: Altun Ha is also one of Central America’s
most archaeologically significant sites. With over 300 carved jade objects
discovered in the Green Tomb alone, and boasting the largest jade statuette
ever discovered, this ancient capital is rich in both treasure and history.
BURIED TREASURE IN
HONDURAS
Travellers to Honduras
should not miss their
chance to visit the ruins
of Copán. Boasting one
of the largest collections
of Mayan sculpture,
and declared a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in
1980, Copán is a must
for any Mayan itinerary.
Tourists should arrive
early to take advantage
of cooler temperatures,
but please note that
since Copán is under
threat by looters,
security may be stricter
than usual. Despite this,
travellers are treated to a warm welcome and tours can be arranged at the
park. Also recommended is the Maya Museum, which can be entered for a
nominal fee.
With over 400 identified sites, the Maya world’s legacy has something for
everyone, but Central America definitely offers some of the lesser-travelled
sites. From the jungle paradise of Copán to the volcano-damaged Cerén,
the enigmatic ancient Maya left a wealth of treasures behind waiting to be
discovered… but travellers should act quickly before the jungle claims the last
relics of this fascinating civilization.
Vacationers looking to sample ancient Mayan cuisine
might be surprised to know they already have. In fact,
the majority of Canadians can already speak a few Mayan
words.
Chocolātl, for instance, is instantly recognizable as chocolate. The Maya
held the humble cacao bean in such esteem that it was used as currency.
Believed to be a gift from Quetzcoatl, chocolate was usually served at
banquets as a frothy, chili-spiced beverage reserved only for nobles.
Guacamole also has Mayan roots – in fact, guacamole comes from the
Nahuatl word for avocado, āhuacatl. Ahuacamolli, the Nahuatl word for
avocado soup, was used by the Maya as an aphrodisiac due to the fruit’s
resemblance to a certain part of the male anatomy.
Guests fortunate enough to be offered a Mayan sauna should jump
at the chance – the tuj is traditionally conducted in a stone chamber
in which aromatic jungle wood is burned slowly. Fragrant leaves and
flowers are thrown onto the coals and the resulting steam is said to
purify body and mind.
After a relaxing sauna, travellers are encouraged to try another Maya
specialty, the michelada. Made by infusing a light beer, like Tecate or
Corona, with rough salt, cracked pepper and copious amounts of fresh-
squeezed lime juice, this is the quintessential Central American way to
end a long afternoon – or start a great day on vacation.
COPÁN
PHO
TO C
OU
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TO
URI
SM B
OA
RD
PHO
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STIT
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SM
ALTUN HA, BELIZE
