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Trends from the Runway Designer Q&A Special Bridal Section THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS FALL/WINTER 2012 FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA Glamorous GOLD

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Page 1: Traditional Jewelers

Trends from the RunwayDesigner Q&ASpecial Bridal Section

THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ! FALL/WINTER 2012 ! FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA

GlamorousGOLD

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Watch in white high-tech ceramic set with 54 diamonds (~1.4 carat). Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 50 meters.

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FEATURES6 On the Web

10 Welcome Letter

12 Traditional Jewelers Events

14 Accent Advisor

16 Red Carpet: Standout Style

20 Watch Report

22 Speed: The Thrill of Victory

24 Timepieces: Baume & Mercier

26 Designer: Temple St. Clair

28 Traditional Jewelers Runway Trends

34 Golden Charm

40 Trends: Roaring Twenties Redux

42 Profile: Forevermark

56 Designer Profile: Aaron Basha

58 Interiors: Heavy Metals

60 Food: First-Generation Fame

62 Travel: It's About Time

64 Perfect Gems

66 Crossword

BRIDAL SECTION44 The Invitations: Set the Tone

46 The Details: Something Even Newer

48 The Traditions: Worldwide Weddings

52 The Rings: New and Non-Traditional

54 The Stories: Wedding Day Magic

ON THE COVERModel Kelly Hughes (NEXT Management) wearsTRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION ovalhoop earrings and overlapping ring featuringpavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold,TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION wovennecklace and bangle bracelet featuring pavédiamonds set in 18K yellow gold, and CARTIERTank Anglaise in 18K yellow gold featuring pavédiamonds on the side. Dress by Nha Khanh.Photography by Edwin Santa. Hair by JoeSteven. Makeup by Eliut Tarin. Nails by AbigailAlcala. Styled by Carla Loo. PhotographerAssistant Marlon Pacheco.

Trends from the RunwayDesigner Q&ASpecial Bridal Section

THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ! FALL/WINTER 2012 ! FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA

GlamorousGOLD

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traditionaljewelers.com

Gifts Made EasyShop gifts for all occasions and

price levels. Complimentary gift wrap

and 2-day shipping on all online orders.

Design Your OwnUse our advanced online configurators

to shop loose diamonds and create

your own one-of-a-kind diamond jewelry.

Knowledge BaseLearn more about diamonds, gemstones,

precious metals and timepieces.

From buying guides to care guides,

get all the facts in one place.

Receive insider accessto all Tradtional news:

FacebookFacebook.com/TraditionalJewelersNewportBeach

Twitter@TradJewelers

EmailSign up at: traditionaljewelers.com

gives you unparalleled access to the latest in fine jewelry and timepieces

on the web

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FA S H I O N I S L A N D

2 0 3 N E W P O R T C E N T E R D R I V E

N E W P O R T B E A C H , C A

( 9 4 9 ) 72 1 - 9 010

H O U R S :

M O N - F R I : 10 : 0 0 A M - 8 : 0 0 P M

S AT : 10 : 0 0 A M - 7 : 0 0 P M

S U N : 11 : 0 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M

B R E N T S E Y L E R SENIOR SALES MANAGER

S T E V E M O N D SSALES MANAGER

L U L A H A L FA C R ECOMMUNITY AMBASSADOR

M I C H A E L P O L L A K CEO

S H E R E E N P O L L A K PRESIDENT

DA M O N G R O S S COO

J E N N I F E R F E R K E N H O F FDIRECTOR OF MARKETING

M O L LY W O J C I KDIRECTOR OF INTERACTIVE MARKETING

P U B L I S H E RSTU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O RHANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N AG I N G E D I T O RJILLIAN LAROCHELLE

D E S I G N E R SCYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O J E C T M A N AG E R LISA MONTEMORRA

P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E RPEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E OBRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O OMAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability.Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may bereproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue2. Accent® is a trademark ofBusiness Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP

Necklace featuring 89.45ct green tourmaline and 4.13ct diamonds. Price available upon request.

T R A D I T I O N A L J E W E L E R S .CO M

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WELCOME

A s we’re fast approaching another holiday season, we look back at 33 years in NewportBeach for Traditional Jewelers and the Halfacre family. It’s hard to believe that onlyfive short years ago, our beloved leader, Marion Halfacre, passed away so suddenly.

The community support for Traditional Jewelers and the Halfacre family during these years hasbeen tremendous, and we thank you so very much.

Traditional Jewelers has continued to offer personable, professional service and represent thetop jewelry and watch brands in the world. It is our pledge to all of you to continue thatexperience for years to come.

Over the past year, we have been in discussions with another family-owned business fromDenver, Colorado, Hyde Park Jewelers, and as these discussions were concluded on July 31,2012, Traditional Jewelers is now under the ownership of Michael and Shereen Pollak. ThePollaks have stores in Denver, Las Vegas, Phoenix, and now at Fashion Island in Newport

Beach.

Traditional Jewelers will continue to uphold our highstandards of customer service and of the collectionswe represent. We believe the joining of strengths ofthese two well-established, community-focusedcompanies will only serve to make your experienceat Traditional Jewelers even better.

Stop in to see what’s new at our jewelry event,scheduled for December 7th and 8th, as our manybrands highlight their designs for fall and winterjust in time for your holiday gift giving.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

Cheers!Lula F. Halfacre

Dear Friends,

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luminor 1950 8 days gmt - 44mm

designa n d technology.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

CYSTIC FIBROSIS GALAThe Cystic Fibrosis Guild welcomed 489 guests to their 29th Annual Gala at the Newport Beach Marriott Hotel and Spa on Saturday,

June 2, raising $535,000 for cystic fibrosis research and care. Cystic fibrosis is a fatal, hereditary disease that affects the lungs and digestive system.The evening included a popular martini bar in the silent auction reception, where guests bid on the exciting auction items and entered in the raffle

drawing. Traditional Jewelers was happy to donate this year’s raffle prize: a ladies Baume & Mercier steel and 18K rose gold Linea Chronograph, won byNatalie Farnell. The master of ceremonies was Shawn Parr of Go Country 105FM, and Guild president Sue Hook presented the Foundation’s prestigious

“Breath of Life” award to the Huston family for their unwavering support. To date, the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation’s efforts over the past 28 years have netted over $9.5 million dollars.

Winner of theBaume & Mercier

watch, NatalieFarnell, with herhusband James.

Raffle chairmanDanni Good with herhusband Dan, andpresident of theCystic Fibrosis Guild,Sue Hook, withhusband Dave.

CIRCLE 1000 AND THE HOAG FAMILY CANCER INSTITUTE CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF SUPPORT

Recognizing Hoag physicians, Circle 1000 founders and, of course, cancer survivors, fighters and caregivers, Traditional Jewelers was proud to be a part of the celebration and donated a Breitling Avenger Seawolf watch to help raise money for the cause.

The morning’s celebrations consisted of a lovely brunch and motivating keynote speaker Alan Hobson.

Founder ofTraditionalJewelers, LulaHalfacre, withkeynote speakerAlan Hobson.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

THE 46TH ANNUAL GOV CUPThe Governor’s Cup, the oldest Junior Match Racing championship in the world, has earned the title “Pathway for Champions” as its alumni

over the 45 year history have gone on to “fame and fortune” as America’s Cup and World Match Race Tour participants and winners, including both the skipper and tactician on Oracle’s 2010 America’s Cup win.

As U.S. and international competition continues to increase in the Gov Cup, this trend will continue as competitors in this 46th event begin their careers in the world’s major match and fleet race events.

The Cup regatta was first held at the Balboa Yacht Club in 1967 and was donated by then-Governor(and later President of the United States) Ronald Reagan.

Tim Coltman, the winning skipper from Royal PortNicholson Yacht Club of Wellington, New Zealand,

with the watch donated by Traditional Jewelers.

Balboa Yacht Club, located in Corona del Mar, is the founder and host of theGovernor’s Cup, its signature regatta. Over the years, Gov Cup week hasbecome an attraction for the entire Newport Beach community.

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IS THIS AGOOD TIMETO INVESTIN GOLD?Yes! The intrinsic value of preciousmetal is always a good investment,particularly in a precarious economy.In fact, a gold ring purchased 25 yearsago is worth at least 10 times as muchtoday. Gold is indestructible: it doesnot corrode or tarnish; all the gold thathas ever been mined still exists. Inaddition, jewelry designers today arecreating more spectacular works ingold than ever before. Next time youvisit us, we’ll show you some trulyirresistible investments—both financialand emotional!

DO I NEEDTO BUYMY WATCHFROM ANAUTHORIZEDDEALER?Absolutely yes! Unfortunately, todaythere are plenty of decent-seemingknockoffs available on the internet andeven in stores. Unless your dealer isauthorized, you can never be sure whatyou’re buying, so when the time comesfor repairs or your watch requires areplacement part, you could be out ofluck. Why jeopardize your investment insuch an important item, which is oftennot just a timepiece, but a treasuredheirloom?

OVER THE YEARS,MY HUSBANDHAS GIVENME MANY SMALLAND DELICATEPENDANTS THAT I SOMETIMES WEARTO MAKE HIMHAPPY, BUT DON’TREALLY LOVE. ANY IDEAS?How about buying a beautiful gold link chain and creating acharm bracelet or necklace? Or combining a few of the smallerpendants into a more significant piece? Bring them into thestore and we’ll be happy to work with you on designingsomething truly special that you’ll wear with pride and thatyou BOTH will love.

I OFTEN HEAR TALKABOUT “LAYERING”JEWELRY. BUT ISN’TONE GREAT PIECEMORE IMPACTFULTHAN MANY LESSERPIECES?Depending on the outfit, one great piece is often the mostdramatic way to wear jewelry, but mixing pieces (layering) isanother good option, an expressive way to create looks that aremore personal and uniquely you.

And these days, there are few rules. Yellow, white and rosegold can be combined in a single piece or worn at the same timein separate pieces. Modern and Deco-inspired styles can workhand in hand; colored gemstones can be mixed and matchedaccording to your tastes, your personality, your mood of themoment. (Contrast colors are very “in” this season.) Spend sometime experimenting with creative combinations and see whatmoves you. Often, an old piece worn differently can become anew favorite!

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Proof positive that socialite and reality TV personality Olivia Palermo deserves her

reputation as a trendsetter. At Fabergé’s party in the Loft & Garden atop Rockefeller

Center, her outfit was simple but stylish, featuring subtle nautical details perfectly

complemented by a large link necklace, pretty bangles and statement-making cocktail ring.

In a classic tuxedo and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak timepiece, Adrien Brody looks every bit

the consummate gentleman. Over 150 guests joined the Academy Award-winning actor at a black

tie gala in Milan to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the iconic watch design.

On the rooftop of New York City’s STK, Maria Menounos brought star power to the launch

RED CARPET

Standout StyleWITH MEGAWATT SMILES AND FASHIONS TO MATCH, THESE STARS

CAN’T HELP BUT CATCH YOUR EYE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

OLIVIA PALERMO ADRIEN BRODY MARIA MENOUNOS

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party for dating site findyourfacemate.com. Her stack of mixed-material bracelets was right on

trend, while her dainty and delicate white gold necklace flashed a subtle show of sparkle to those

lucky enough to get close.

Golden goddess Frida Pinto (with boyfriend Dev Patel at the world premiere of her film Black

Gold in Qatar) chose bold bangles to play up the braided trim on her ethereal gown. The result:

a look that’s both flowing and glowing.

As a juror at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival, Diane Kruger was expected to walk every red

carpet...and she didn’t disappoint. This heavenly sheath was just one of many wow-worthy

ensembles she chose. In order to let floral appliqués and feathers take the spotlight, Kruger

accessorized simply with a sparkly clutch and vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece.

In a white hot curve-hugging dress and jewelry inspired by Princesse Grace de Monaco, actress

Jessica Alba looked like royalty at a party hosted by Montblanc in Beijing.

RED CARPET

FRIDA PINTO AND DEV PATEL DIANE KRUGER JESSICA ALBASE

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A. LANGE & SÖHNE Saxonia Automatic, 37mm case in yellow gold with diamond bezel and mother-of-pearl dial.White crocodile strap. CARTIER Tank Anglaise watch small model. 18K rose gold, diamonds. CHANEL Chromatic,38mm, scratch-proof ceramic and titanium case and bracelet, automatic movement, date display, water resistantto 200m. TAG HEUER LINK watch in stainless steel with diamond dial and diamond bezel. Date window at 6o’clock. 34.5mm. PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies' Moon Phase in rose gold. Bezel and case set with 274 graduated sizediamonds, white mother-of-pearl dial. Alligator strap and diamond buckle.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

CARTIER

PATEK PHILIPPE

CHANEL

TAG HEUER

For Her

WatchReportTRADITIONAL JEWELERS

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OMEGA Seamaster Diver: The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector's Piece in stainless steel. IWC Big Pilot’swatch Top Gun Miramar, 48mm ceramic case with a green textile strap, mechanical movement with a Pellatonautomatic winding, 7-day power reserve. Date display and power reserve display on the dial. BREITLING TransoceanChronograph Unitime. Red gold case, black dial and black crocodile strap. PANERAI Radiomir 8 Days Titanio, 45mmbrushed titanium case, brown dial, alligator strap, brushed titanium buckle, hand-wound mechanical movement, PaneraiP.2002 calibre, water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters). ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Datejust II, 41mm in stainless steel withpolished bezel and Oyster bracelet.

BREITLING

PANERAI

IWC

OMEGA

ROLEX

For Him

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Over the decades, numerousHollywood film stars have beenbitten by the racing bug. There

may be some profound reasons for this, or itmay simply be that famous actors areaccustomed to glamour and attention.When filming is over, the thirst for theexcitement, danger and competition kicksin. (Or as Paul Newman once put it, “There’sno acting needed when driving; it’s just youand the machine.”)

The connection between film stars andmotor racing dates back to the turn of the 20th century, when BarneyOldfield became the first man to travel at one mile per minute. His fame asa racecar driver led to film stardom in the first half of that century. Asignificant number of racing films were made during that time, but thegreatest of all was John Frankenheimer’s 1966 film Grand Prix starringJames Garner. Garner went on to form a successful racing organizationcalled American International Racers (AIR); when filming was completed,his cars raced with considerable success at Le Mans, Daytona, Sebring andother famous race circuits around the world. Steve McQueen’s film Le Mansmay not have been a critic’s choice for best drama, but the racing actionwas brilliant, and his reputation as an accomplished racecar driver andmotorcycle racer subsequently grew. Paul Newman filmed Winning aroundthe same time; while it also lacked dramatic quality, the racing scenes

filmed at the Indianapolis 500 broughtviewers to the edge of their seats.Newman’s racing was legendary, and at theage of 80 he was even part of a winningteam at the Rolex 24 at Daytona.

James Dean, James Coburn and TomCruise also enjoyed motor racing, earningrespect in the amateur ranks of the sport.But today it’s Patrick Dempsey who charmsrace fans on and off the track. His dedicationto the sport is unparalleled as a driver, teamowner and ambassador for motor racing.

Actors may not appreciate equal billing on film credits, but at a race circuit,they overwhelmingly acknowledge the team effort, giving much credit to theircrews, their sponsors and their cars. Famous names like Ferrari, Porsche, AstonMartin, Lotus, Corvette, BMW and others have loyal fans of their own. In certaincases, the driver and the car are even upstaged by the race circuit. Just hearingnames like Daytona, Sebring, Le Mans, Monaco, Spa-Francorchamps andMonza brings intense emotion to motor racing enthusiasts.

And just as actors aspire to win an Academy Award, racecar driversdream of winning a series championship. In 2012, endurance road racing inAmerica celebrated two remarkable anniversaries: The Rolex 24 at Daytonamarked its 50th and Sebring its 60th. Both venues have earned a uniqueplace in the history of international motorsports—stars in their own right. Above: Patrick Dempsey enjoys a day at the races.

THE THRILL OF VICTORYCARS, STARS AND HISTORIC RACE CIRCUITS. BY DAVID A. ROSE

SPEED

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Passion for NatureFeaturing “Oasi Zegna” Landscape

Fashion Island, Newport Beach949.759.1622 garysonline.com

GARYSAvailable at

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Since 1830, Baume & Mercier has been making fine Swisswatches that last. And since the early 1900s—when womenfirst started wearing timepieces on brooches, as necklaces

and around their wrists—the brand has designed specifically withdiscerning females in mind.

“In the early days, there were only larger men’stimepieces. Baume & Mercier was one of the first (in fact, wehelped start the trend) to manufacture timepieces forwomen,“ explains Rudy Chavez, brand president of NorthAmerica. “Because we’ve been doing it for over 100 years, it’sa part of our DNA; we aren’t just making smaller versions ofmen’s watches.

“There are more similarities than differences between menand women when it comes to choosing a timepiece,” Chavezasserts. “They’re both looking for a brand with a pedigree, anattractive style and a good value. But one difference is thatwomen are really seeking versatility. They want a watch they canwear formally, at work and on the weekends.”

With that aim, Baume & Mercier introduced the Linea collection,designed exclusively for women and offered in steel, steel with 18Kgold, and steel with diamonds. This year they’ve expanded thecollection with new sizes and materials, including rose gold (above),and a larger collection of straps that allows a woman to choosebetween links, colored leathers, and even satin for evening.

The watch maker has also recently unveiled a delicate newsize in its Hampton collection, first introduced in 1994. Inspired bya museum piece from the 1940s, the collection combines keyoriginal design elements, like a distinctive rectangular case, with

stylish modern accents. Today’s reinterpretation of this iconicpiece in its smaller size (left) gracefully embodies vintage ArtDeco styling with a timeless twist.

Baume & Mercier’s timeless designs are precisely whatmake its watches the perfect gift. “You want to give a watch

with a rich history and a Swiss pedigree,” says Chavez. “Andyou don’t want to give a gift that five years from now willbe outdated. You want that someone special to love it as

much years later as they did on day one.”The brand’s campaign theme is ‘Life is About Moments,’

so when Chavez, who spends much of the year traveling, runsinto someone wearing a Baume & Mercier timepiece, he likesto ask how they acquired it. “It’s incredible how many times

they reply that the watch was a gift, and they glow as they tellme the story of where they were and who gave it to them,whether it was from their father on graduation day, or theirhusband to commemorate the birth of a first child. It’s a gift thatconstantly reminds the wearer of the special occasion theycelebrated and the person who gave it to them.

“It’s much more than a timepiece; it’s a piece of your life.”

WHAT WOMEN WANTBAUME & MERCIER LADIES TIMEPIECES OFFER MODERN STYLING

AND A RICH HISTORY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

TIMEPIECES

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T emple St. Clair has captivated a worldwide clientele who aredrawn to her distinctive gold work, unique colored gemstonesand exquisite craftsmanship, and to her iconic design found in

her rock crystal amulets and thematic collections. St. Clair recentlyintroduced bespoke design work, where she invites clients to collaboratedirectly with her to create one-of-a-kind collectible jewels. Here, shereveals the rich history behind her brand, her inspirations, and leads usthrough the creative process of designing a bespoke piece.

How did you start designing jewelry?I’ve always fancied myself an adventurer and explorer. I studied art historyand Italian literature during college and graduate school and ended upstaying in Florence for what turned out to be a 12-year sojourn. Early on Ibecame fascinated with ancient coins. On a visit to a numismaticantiquarian shop with my mother, I found a rare 4th-century BCCarthaginian coin. She gave me the task of making it into a piece of jewelry.Searching for a goldsmith in the back alleys of Florence led me into a

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR CREATES ONE-OF-A-KIND COLLECTIBLE JEWELS.

DESIGNER

BESPOKE DESIGN

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magical world of artistry, history and culture. Imade a hobby of studying the history behind thecoins and began collecting them to set into jewelry.I did this as a way to support my travels, never withthe intention of starting a business. By chance, a scoutfrom Barneys saw my pieces, and urged me to showmy work to the buyers in New York; they loved what I wasdoing, encouraged me to expand my collection, offeringme a case with my name on it…the rest is history. I still workwith some of the same goldsmiths in Florence; they’re likefamily.How has your aesthetic evolved over the years? If you had to describe your collections today, whatwould you say? I just celebrated my 25th year of designing jewelry. My work stillnods to its classic roots, but it’s just becoming more and morerefined as I have honed my skills and my knowledge.What inspires you most?Cultural connections between all of the arts…from performing artsto fine art to architecture. I love how all things connect. Nothing is inisolation. I look at Frank Lloyd Wright and see Zen Buddhism.Etruscan art connects to India and China and the migration oftribes. I love cultural anthropology. People have always wornjewelry, from the caveman to the rapper. Jewelry is always asign of the times…a statement about what is meaningful.What influences your designs today?So many things. I have a Celestial collection, for example, whereI looked at old astronomical paintings for inspiration. Travel isalso huge. For example, one of my collections had a Buddhistinspiration and came about after a trip to northern India, where I looked atTibetan paintings.From an anthropological/jewelry perspective, how will ourtimes go down in history?I’ve found when times are shakier, personal connections and things heldclose to the heart (like charms and amulets) are more important. Peoplewant jewelry to have more meaning and value. I create pieces of greatquality, with a rarity of gemstones and craftsmanship. Mine is a slowprocess and my pieces are meant to be timeless, modern classics. Peoplewant more important pieces.What are your signature pieces?Definitely my rock crystal amulets. The very first I made was in 1986, and itwas a sphere of rock crystal encased in 18-karat gold. It was inspired by anamulet I saw in the Archaeological Museum of Florence. Amulets andcharms have been with us since ancient times, and the idea of themfascinates me. It’s a stylish item, women are drawn to it somehow, and I domany different kinds in each new collection, so they can always find onethat appeals to them.Can you describe the woman who wears your jewelry?She’s a very confident, well-traveled, well-read woman and refers to herselfas a creative type even if she’s a doctor or a lawyer. She also likes to puttogether her own look. An interesting point: The women who wear myjewelry usually buy it for themselves as opposed to their husband orpartner gifting it to them.What’s the biggest mistake women make when it comes tojewelry?I don’t think there are rules, really—you have to create your own since

jewelry is an expression of who you are. I am notparticularly matchy-matchy when I wear jewelry. I

won’t match earrings and a necklace, for example. Theyrelate in some way, but aren’t the same.Is there a “little black dress” equivalent in

jewelry?A great gold chain, large or small, that is beautifully made,and some signature charm or pendant that becomes

identifiable with that person. In my collection, that would bemy Arno chain with a Rock Crystal Vine Amulet.

Any great stories of celebrities that wear your jewelry?I don’t pursue celebrities to wear my jewelry, but I love when they

choose it on their own. Years ago I designed wedding rings for TedDanson and Mary Steenburgen. Last spring, I was at an event and JuliaRoberts showed up in blue moonstone earrings and a necklace of mine,

looking great. At the Accessories Hall of Fame awards, Cynthia Nixonpresented in my jewelry. I love that she wears it. She’s a fellow NewYorker…down to earth, talented and passionate about education. She’sa true artist, very real.

What’s your favorite personal piece of jewelry?I am never without my rock crystal amulets. But my “thesis” is a pendant

called the Tolomeo after the 1st-century astronomer, Ptolemy. It extolsthe ancient theory that the Earth is the center of the universe. It’s

rather complex with astrological glyphs and Latin engravings. It’shumorous and whimsical.

Can you walk us through the process of bringing a Temple St.Clair Bespoke piece to life?From season to season, I curate an array of rare gems, from blue greenAfrican Paraiba tourmaline, to earthy mandarin garnet, to a perfectnecklace suite of rubellite tourmaline, to an exquisite tanzanite to be set ina ring or a pendant. Watercolor renderings have been made to suggestdesigns for these gems, but that’s just to get the conversation going. Theultimate experience is the collaborative process between me and my clientsto choose a rare gem and bespoke design. The result: a one-of-a-kind,timeless treasure.

*Appointments can be arranged through Hyde Park Jewelers, at ourstores or at Temple St. Clair’s New York studio.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERSRUNWAY TRENDS

BIGGERISBETTER

Clockwise from top: Kwiat Jacquard collection earrings with 1.62carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold. Ippolita OpenCascade earrings in 18K gold. Marco Bicego mixed sapphireearrings in 18K gold.

RU

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERSRUNWAY TRENDS

From top: Marco Bicego hand-engraved 18K gold Siviglia necklacewith mixed sapphires. Penny Preville blue sapphire ring and dropearrings in 18K white gold and diamonds. Stephen Webster 18K whitegold Large Deco Haze Hexagonal earrings with black diamonds andgreen agate crystal haze.

FALLFORCOLOR

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ARMENTACOLLECTION.COM

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERSRUNWAY TRENDS CUFFS

&BANGLES

From top: Penny Preville diamond and 18K white gold cuff bracelet.Temple St. Clair Vine cuff in 18K yellow gold. Armenta Old WorldMidnight bracelets in yellow gold with black and white diamonds,sapphires, blue mother of pearl, opals, labradorite and peacocktourmaline.

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Your Golden Angel“Angel´s Wings“ collection

The extraordinary love story of a Wellendorff admirer has taught us that angels not only protect but also connectlovers with one another forever. This letter has inspired us to create our new “Angel´s Wings“ collection. It has beena fresh reminder to the genuine value of jewellery: to bring joy and offer protection. Experience this magical storyand the entire collection at www.wellendorff.com or at Traditional.

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GOLDENCHARM

YELLOW GOLD AND DIAMONDS ADD SPARKLE ANDSOPHISTICATION. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWIN SANTA

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTIONoval hoop earrings and overlapping

ring featuring pavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold TRADITIONAL

JEWELERS COLLECTION woven necklaceand bangle bracelet featuring pavé

diamonds set in 18K yellow goldCARTIER Tank Anglaise watch in 18K

yellow gold and diamondsABS ALLEN SCHWARTZ dress

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IPPOLITA 18K gold,diamond andgemstone jewelryfrom the RockCandy Gelatocollection ABSALLEN SCHWARTZdress

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MARCO BICEGO AfricaCollection hand-engraved

18K yellow gold dropearrings and graduatednecklace MARCO BICEGOAfrica Collection hand-

engraved 18K yellow goldoverlapping and cuff

bangle ABS ALLENSCHWARTZ dress

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TEMPLE ST. CLAIR 18Kyellow gold dropearrings featuring bluemoonstones and pavédiamonds from theRoyal Blue Moonstonecollection ADOLFOCOURRIER Classic Goldcollection stackable 18Kyellow gold ringsfeaturing yellowsapphires and whitediamonds TEMPLE ST.CLAIR rock crystalamulet featuring rockcrystal, pavé diamondsand blue moonstonesset in 18K yellow goldon an 18K yellow goldchain necklaceNHA KHANH dress

Hair by Joe StevenMakeup by Eliut TarinNails by Abigail AlcalaStyled by Carla LooPhotographer AssistantMarlon Pacheco ABS Allen Schwartzcollection courtesy ofBloomingdale’sAventura. All jewelryavailable at TraditionalJewelers.

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IMAG

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From fashion to jewelry, Art Deco is currently the leading styleinspiration. “And come this spring and summer, it will get stronger,then even bigger by fall/winter 2013,” says Ellen Sideri, CEO of ESP

Trendlab in New York City, which tracks fashion trends and cultural patterns.Interestingly, the real excitement isn’t about original vintage jewelry andfashion, but rather contemporary styles inspired by that roarin’ era of the1920s and ’30s. It’s more “Deco redefined.” Each in its own signature style,luxury brands are creating modern collections based on design elementsthat defined the Deco movement: streamlined shapes, a strong color palette,graphic patterns, geometric stone cuts, linear symmetry, elongatedsilhouettes and ancient Egyptian and Aztec forms.

FILM AND FASHION INFLUENCESBefore we tell you what you should look for and how to wear it, let’s explorethe big question of why Deco, why now? What brought on jewelry’sobsession with the brilliance of the Jazz Age? In spring 2013, The GreatGatsby remake hits theatres and, with A-lister Leonardo DiCaprio starring asJay Gatsby, Art Deco designs will be very much in the spotlight.

Added to that, in both ready-to-wear and couture for 2012/2013, ArtDeco references ruled the runways. Sideri notes, “We’re seeing lots ofbeads, feathers, and embroidery—but elegant and luxurious—with one

designer after another using the 1920s (and the 1910s) as their muse.” Forhis fall/winter haute couture collection, Jean Paul Gaultier has embraced theperiod in a big way, with highly graphic gold metal cage designs pieced intodresses and jackets, as well as softer glam flapper looks. And AlexanderMcQueen’s 2013 resort collection spectacularly marries Art Deco withinspirations from the linear work of the legendary Gustav Klimt.

Amanda Gizzi, director of communications for the Jewelry InformationCenter in New York, explains: “As our country has been coming out ofdifficult economic times, more and more customers are asking for jewelrythat isn’t cookie-cutter. And these modern pieces, which are influenced byDeco but a bit edgier, are perfectly suited to what they want.”

THE “NEW DECO” LOOKTo do New Deco, there are a few jewelry items you want on your wish list:

TASSEL EARRINGS AND PENDANTS Swinging tassel earrings and

THIS YEAR’S FUN-TO-WEAR FASHION MOVEMENT.BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Nicole Kidman wears Deco-inspired earrings

Above from left: Stephen Webster Cascade tassel earrings withblue sapphires and white diamonds in 18K white gold from theForget Me Knot collection; Stephen Webster Forget Me KnotCascade pendant in 18K white gold; Ivanka Trump black onyxpendant from the Gilded Cage collection in 18K gold

ROARING TWENTIES REDUX

40

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pendants were the perfect complements to high-hemline dresses, andtoday you’ll find lots of colorful versions in whatever gemstone you like.

ROPES OF PEARLS If you already have a strand of opera-lengthpearls, think Clara Bow or Daisy Buchanan and drape them on! Then be sureto get another long rope of pearls to layer in; finish the look by knotting thatsecond strand. The knotted pearl necklace is back!

DANGLY COLORED-GEM DROPS “Decoearrings are always very desirable atauction,” says Ann Lange, senior vicepresident and director of jewelry for theprestigious auction house DoyleNew York. “The linear hanging kind,because they’re simple yet theyhave strong design.”

DIAMOND CASCADEEARRINGS In the ’20s and ’30s,women often donned earringsmade of cascading diamonds toadd femininity to their newly in-vogue short bobbed haircuts.Back then, diamond chandeliers(as they’re now known) replacedear clips, hair combs and hat pins.

BIG GEOMETRIC RINGSRings were large and rectangular,and women often woreseveral on one hand.For evening, oversizedemeralds and rubiesplayed a strong role, inwhite or yellow metal.Contemporary Deco jewelrygives you lots of priceoptions, with many brands evenmaking Deco-style uber-rings withsterling silver and natural gemstones.

BANGLES AND BRACELETSWhen women started wearing sleevelessstyles, bracelets became an important accessory.Bangles were clustered on their wrists or higher onthe upper arms. As for flexible gemstone bracelets,Lange says, “Deco diamond bracelets are also very desirableat our auctions; the workmanship was exceptional.”

DECO-THEME PIECES If you’re someone who likesto wear symbolic jewelry, there’s a lot of New Decopieces inspired by the iconography of the ’20s and ’30s,skyscrapers like the Eiffel Tower and the ChryslerBuilding á la the era’s unique architectural movement. Orchoose something unique with carvings or silhouettes ofpyramids, obelisks, palm fronds and lotus flowers—motifs thatoften appeared in period pieces, influenced by the 1922 discoveryof King Tut’s tomb.

NEW DECO CUTS & COLORS CUTS With the exception of tiny beads used for tassels, reminiscent of

renowned Deco jewelers like Jean Fouquet, the geometric bent of Art Decojewelry design is typically achieved by incorporating angular stones,

especially emerald cuts. “In our Important Estate Jewelry auctions, the topthree diamond cuts in original Art Deco are emerald, Asscher and cushion,”says Lange. “Emerald cuts are forever classics, and I’m seeing a lot ofinterest in contemporary jewelry with cushion cuts.” Step-cut shapes liketrapezoids and half-moons are often seen as side stones in Deco designs,

so this year and going forward, you’ll see them in the New Decocollections, too. Actress Sofia Vergara’s engagement

ring, for example, features a cushion-cut centerstone with a trapezoid diamond on either side.

COLORS Deco jewelry tends to rely onbold gemstone colors, in contrast to the

austerity of the Edwardian period thatpreceded the Roaring ’20s. The most

notable shades are black, green, redand blue, plus white, which, if done inenamel, for example, can impart adistinctive boldness.

Black: Onyx was perhaps themost widely used black gemstoneduring the 1920s and ’30s, so someNew Deco pieces incorporate it,too. But they more often featureblack diamonds, black sapphiresand black opals.

Green: “Carved jade was [used]in a lot of vintage Deco,” notes Lange,

so modern jewelry artisans arefavoring this green varietyas well. But emeralds and

agates are two other greenfavorites. This year, in fact,

emeralds are so hot in fashionthat it may even be difficult for

May-born women (whosebirthstone is emerald) to get their

hands on it!Red: Rubies, ruby-red enamels and deep

red corals top the list of must-have New Decoreds, but especially ruby, as Lange notes, “because

there were a lot of Burma rubies in original Art Decojewelry.”Gizzi adds, “Since this movement started to grow, I’ve seen a lot

more dark-red corals in jewelry—something I hadn’t seen in a long time.”Blue: Look for primary-color blue gems, like lapis-lazuli and

sapphire, but also cobalt blue alternative materials like enamel, resinand ceramic. A wealth of lapis jewelry was found in King Tut’s tomb, a

key reason the blue gem became an important influence on jewelryof the period.

White: Rock crystal, white pearls and white diamonds top NewDeco’s white stone list. “Certainly, rock crystal was used a lot in ArtDeco—it was very prized then and it is now, too,” says Lange. “There

were also lots of natural pearls back then.” Consider, too, some of theNew Deco pieces that mix black Tahitian pearls with white metal, as theblack-and-white color scheme was a key color combination then and now.

41

From Jean PaulGaultier’s ParisHaute Couture

collectionfall/winter 2012

Above: Gurhan Lotus collection necklace; Lagos ring

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For those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark,part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expertfor 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly

sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained mastercraftsmen. Less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are eligible to bearthe Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we amongthem) are authorized to sell these incredible gems.

Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, thesesuperlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a uniqueidentification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of theinscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair)and can be seen in our store using a special viewer.

Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal qualityof the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and addedsecurity. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute inAntwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity andaccuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, yourguarantee of excellence and authenticity.

Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermarkdiamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the companygoes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcingactively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countriescommitted to the highest business, social and environmental standards.

Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonderForevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman,Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on andoff the red carpet.

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PROFILE

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T H E I N V I TAT I O N S BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

In addition to the trends we’ve highlighted here, Finigan recommends adding a foil stamp ora splash of unexpected color to freshen up a traditional invitation design. Envelope linersare a fun way to introduce a pattern that might otherwise overwhelm your invitation. Anddon’t forget about the front of the envelope: it’s the very first thing guests will see whenthey open the mailbox! Hand calligraphy is always the ultimate luxe touch, and some bridesare choosing an assortment of vintage stamps to add a final pop of visual interest.

LOCATIONLOCATIONLOCATION

“We get a lot of clients asking todo something location-specific,like this custom design thatfeatures the Boston skyline,” saysSamantha Finigan of Gus &Ruby Letterpress in Portsmouth,N.H. Whether your bash is inthe city or country, it’s a greatpersonalized touch. (Bonuspoints if the design is hand-illustrated.)

THE NEW NEONS

Neon colors are hot rightnow. They’re showing upeverywhere from fashion tohome décor, and of course, inwedding design. Neon onwhite looks fresh and is theprefect way to make a simplegraphic statement. For thenot-so-bold, Finigan assuresus that “muted watercolorpastels are also a big colortrend, especially in letterpressprinting.”

HAVEFUN

WITHFONTS

With typefaces thisinteresting, who needscolors or imagery? Wethink they’re plentypretty on their own.According to Finegan,“Justified [centered] typewith variations in fonthas been a huge hit.”

QUIRKYWORDING

Carolina and Logan replaced the usual“reception to follow” with this funphrase promising “wild revelry” afterthe ceremony. RSVP cards are anothergreat place to experiment withexpressions. Instead of “will attend” and“will not attend,” try “wouldn’t miss itfor the world” and “we’ll be there inspirit,” or the simple-but-cheeky “yay”

and “nay.”

Set the Tone

IMPACTFUL INVITATIONS WILL GETYOUR GUESTS EXCITED FOR THE BIG DAY.

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Something Even Newer

T H E D E TA I L S BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

SOMETHING OLD• Think out of the box. Your

‘somethings’ can be places ordecorations instead of wornitems. One example: hold yourwedding at a historic site.

• Display old photos of ancestors(extra points if taken on theirwedding days) at your ceremonyand/or reception. It’s heartfeltand gives your guests an insightinto your family history.

• Wear lace or a button from afamily member’s wedding dressin your hair, or incorporate itinto your bouquet.

• Have your ring bearer carry therings in a treasured heirloominstead of on the standard satin

pillow. A jewelry box from abeloved family member couldalso hold a flower girl’s petals.

• Instead of wearing heirloomjewelry in its intended manner,pin or sew it onto your gown asa featured design element.

• Find an alternative use for yourmother’s or grandmother’s veil.Use it to wrap your bouquet ordrape it over a photo display table.

SOMETHINGBORROWED• Borrow a family tablecloth to

dress up the escort card or guest

book table. It will elicit goodmemories of shared familymeals and togetherness.

• Give your grandmother’s crystalcandleholders or vase a vacationfrom the curio cabinet with aplace of honor at your ceremony.

• Borrow a pretty silver knifefrom a friend or family memberand use it to cut the cake.

• Set your sweetheart table withheirloom china and silver, tomake your first meal as husbandand wife even more special.

• If your parents are sentimental,they probably still have theirwedding cake topper. Get it outof that dusty box in the garageand give it another go.

SOMETHING BLUE• Incorporate a beautiful blue

stone or side stones into yourwedding band. Sapphire, bluetopaz, tanzanite and aquamarineare all excellent choices.

• Why not wear a pair of strappy blueevening shoes? They’ll be a fun flashof color beneath your dress.

• Getting rid of wedding cake guilt

is easy: decorate it with deliciousfresh blueberries and meet yourdaily fruit quota!

• When you go for your weddingday pedicure, choose a prettypale blue. Or how about a stripof blue to replace the white on aFrench manicure?

• Use a small blue clutch for yourlipstick, cell phone and otherwedding day necessities.

• Signature drinks are always fun.Why not use Blue Curaçao toconcoct your custom cocktail?

• Splurge on luxurious bluelingerie for your wedding night.

SOMETHING NEW• A brand new piece of jewelry,

of course! You’ll be investing inan heirloom that will havespecial meaning for the nextgeneration of your family.

AS TIME MOVES FORWARD, SO DOES OUR DESIRE TO RE-INVENT OLD TRADITIONS.

Above: Sterling Silver Floral StemmedPair Candlesticks ca. 1943, USA

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It’s a ritual dating back to the Victorianera that’s meant to bring luck tonewlyweds: on her wedding day, thebride carries or wears something old,something new, something borrowedand something blue. Here, a few ideasfor the modern bride who wants tohonor this age-old custom with a fresh,updated twist.

Embellish your bouquet

with lace from a family dress.

Something blue...and yummy too!

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Worldwide Weddings

T H E T R A D I T I O N S BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

lthough American-style weddings have gainedpopularity throughout the world, many countries retain their owncolorful wedding traditions. These customs can vary from region toregion and according to local religious traditions, but it’s interesting tonote that almost all cultures have some version of “tying the knot.” Acurrent trend in the U.S. is to research one’s family heritage andincorporate some of the noteworthy elements into aWestern-style ceremony, or to replicate a traditionalwedding outright. Here are a few highlights fromcenturies of tradition around the globe.

INDIAIndian weddings are planned in accordance withage-old customs and are known to be some of themost beautiful and lavish. Weddings usually last fivedays with a number of rituals before, during andafter the ceremony. The bride is adorned with lots ofgold jewelry to symbolize wealth (a wearable “savingsaccount”) and purity. The gold given to the bride by herfamily, which they often start acquiring as soon as she’s born, contributesto her own “independent” wealth. Many of the symbols that indicate a

Hindu woman is married involve jewelry: Mangalsutra: black and gold beaded necklace with a gold or

diamond pendant. The groom ties it around the bride’s neck during theceremony; it’s comparable to a Western-style wedding ring. Bangles:gold and glass, often studded with precious and semi-precious stones suchas diamonds, gems and pearls; mandatory, signifying long life for the

husband. Armlets: encrusted with jewels or hanging crystals.Bichiya: toe rings worn as a symbol of the married state

along with Anklets on both feet. Mang Tika: goldpendant adorned with jewels that hangs in themiddle of the forehead. Nose Ring: an essentialgold accessory in the left nostril. Rani Haar: gold

filigree necklace with precious stones symbolizingprosperity. Earrings and Jhoomar: a piece of

jewelry with gems worn on the side of the head;matches the design of the rani haar necklace. Waist

Band: like a necklace around the belly studded withprecious or semi-precious stones. Rings: worn on both

hands, attached to a bracelet by a central medallion.These are the most important aspects of a Hindu wedding ceremony:

Mangalfera: The couple walks around the sacred fire four times,

BIG-DAY CUSTOMS FROM CENTURIES-OLD CULTURES.

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In many cultures, before thewedding, the women gather

at the bride’s house for ahenna party with singing and dancing. The bride’s

hands and feet are covered with beautiful

henna designs.

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THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System ™,

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

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YVETTE ECKMAN knows jewelry from the inside, out.

T hree things a jeweler can’t do without. Customers. Integrity. And diamonds.

How did you get into the business? I was fortunate enough to have taken a jewelry making class in high school. I’ve been hooked ever since and pursued a higher education with GIA in gems and jewelry.

All-time favorite piece of jewelry? My diamond pendant that I wear almost everyday—it’s a symbol of my father’s love.

Most valuable lesson learned at work? A client’s trust is earned. And the greater the personal connection I create with a client, the more likely I am to help them choose a piece of jewelry that resonates in every way.

What should a customer always look for? A well-respected jeweler that is knowledgeable, personable and o! ers quality jewelry a customer wouldwear for a lifetime.

Why is a GIA report so important? A GIA report provides the highest level of assurance and security in the quality of the diamond you’re about to purchase.

Insider’s tip? Informed is empowered.

Best source for diamond know-how? 4cs.gia.edu. Not only to explain what to look for in a diamond, it’s information jewelersuse themselves.

PRICELESS INSIGHT

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stopping to touch a stone in the path with their toes to symbolizeobstacles in life that they’ll overcome together. The four rounds signify:Dharma, righteousness; Artha, monetary accomplishment; Kama, energyand passion; Moksha, liberation from everything in life.Saptapadi: After the groom's scarf has been tied to the bride's dresssignifying they’ll always stay together, the couple takes seven stepsaround the sacred fire representing nourishment, strength, prosperity,happiness, progeny, long life and marital harmony. The marriage is thenconsidered legalized according to the Hindu Marriage Act as well astraditional customs.

MEXICO“I once read that watching atraditional Mexican boda is likestudying the history of the countryover the past seven centuries. Ritualsand traditions from the Spanish,Aztec, Native American and Anglo-American cultures are allincorporated into the ceremony,” saysCarmen Laborin of the MexicoTourism Board.

Many Mexicanwedding processions are accompanied by amariachi band and a donkey carrying bottles oftequila and wine for toasts along the way.Mexican brides have several vestido de novia(wedding dress) options depending on theirregion and personal taste: everything froma Western-style fancy white dress to abeautifully embroidered, simple cotton huipilto an elaborately embroidered velvet dress orone made from the local textiles withsymbolic designs.

Las Arras: In an ancient tradition, during theceremony, the groom gives the bride 13 gold coinsrepresenting Jesus and the 12 apostles, which symbolizes the groom’scommitment to support his wife throughout their life together; heracceptance is a promise to take care of him. The bride also receives anornate box for the coins’ safekeeping.

El Lazo: The lasso is a beaded or jeweled rope or ribbon tied aroundthe couple in a figure eight as they exchange their vows, signifying theireternal bond and unity. Once the service is over, it’s removed. Theceremony is followed by a parade with mariachi music and a reception thatlasts ’til the wee hours of morning with eating, drinking and dancing.

SCOTLANDToday, at most Scottish weddings, the groom, his best man and thegroomsmen are kitted out Highland-style in matching tartans. If you

have a Scottish surname,there’s a good chance you havea corresponding family tartan,so the men in your weddingparty can all sport kilts.Bagpipes are appropriatemusic as is dancing the LangReel.

Other Scottish weddingtraditions vary by region: In theBorders, a sprig of heather inthe bridal bouquet brings luck.In Aberdeen, Grampian, Angusand Dundee, luck comes with a

sixpence in the bride’s shoe. And for financial luck, the bride’s fatherthrows a handful of coins for the children to “scramble.” In the northeast,the best man gifts the happy couple with a clock, while the maid of honorgives them a tea set. In Shetland, wedding celebrations continue for twodays with dancing and drinking. It’s said that “tying the knot” comes from

an ancient Celtic practice with roots in pagan rituals. The bride andgroom rip their wedding tartans and tie two strips together

to symbolize the unity of the two families.

JAPANTraditional Shinto wedding ceremonies are heldat shrines. Brides wear shiromuku (formal white

kimono) and grooms wear montsuki (formalblack kimono). The bride gets a ring and nine

lucky gifts for happiness. It's common that onlyfamily members and close relatives attend.

A Shinto priest offers prayers to the deitiesand the ceremony begins by purifying the couple.

After the purification and vows, the bride and groomexchange cups

of sake (rice wine)in the sansan-kudo (three-times-three) ceremonysymbolizing their union andthe uniting of their families.Finally, symbolic offerings ofsakaki (tree sprigs) are given tothe Kamisama (deity). Duringthe kekkon hiroen (reception),the bride changes clothesseveral times, a traditiondating to the 14th century,signifying her readiness toreturn to everyday life.C

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It’s believed that the weddingring originated in ancient Egypt

about 4,800 years ago. The ring’scirclular shape was said to

represent eternity, eternal love anddevotion. Rings were placed on thethird finger of the left hand because

ancient Egyptians believedthat it contained a vein

(vena amoris) that led to the heart.

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NEW AND NON-TRADITIONAL

T H E R I N G S BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

ince engagement and wedding rings are choices youlive with forever, it’s no wonder that current bridalring trends reflect the individual style and personalityof their wearers more than a strict tradition or acertain set of rules. In fact, non-traditional is the new

trend! One has only to look to recent famous weddings and engagementsfor proof: think Angelina Jolie’s custom-designed engagement ring ofgraduated tablet-shaped diamonds, or the new Mrs. Mark Zuckerbergand Jessica Simpson, both showing off ruby engagement rings.

Many of today’s rings are rooted in history. The giving of rings alongwith taking vows of marriage dates back to ancient times. The weddingband, fashioned into a circle, symbolizes never-ending immortal love, and

the finger it is worn on was thought to have a special vein connecteddirectly to the heart. Both customs are said to have originated in AncientEgypt.

The forerunner to the modern-day engagement ring was the ancientGreeks’ betrothal rings. Early betrothal rings from the Middle Ages, called‘‘posy’’ rings, were inscribed with poems and love notes. Engagementrings with diamonds were first given by royalty and nobles beginning in the15th century, mixed with rubies in the 17th and 18th centuries, and hadmessages spelled out in colored stones in the 18th and 19th centuries.Today’s betrothed have all this history to mine, with the benefit ofmodernity found in unusual designs and wide range of metals, stones andshapes available.

UNIQUE OPTIONS ABOUND TO SUIT EVERY COUPLE’S TASTE.

1.RETURN OF THE HALOIn actuality, the halo has never really gone away, but it has been trending more strongly for the past few years, which aligns with the reigningpopularity of round diamond cuts. The difference now is the variety of designs available, and the cuts and arrangement of the stones. Double halos withtwo rows of surrounding stones, three-stone rings (a descendent of the early 20th-century princess ring) incorporating halo diamonds, and the still-trending-strong eternity wedding bands with halo diamonds are all turns on the halo’s road to success. A. Jaffe reports, ‘‘Styles with cushion shapedhalos surrounding the center diamond, as well as a cushion cut diamond standing alone in the center setting, are very popular engagement rings.Matching halo earrings and pendants for the bride have also become increasingly popular.’’

2.RESPONSIBLY SOURCEDChoosing diamonds that are sourced in an ethical manner isincreasingly important among socially conscious brides. Withoutquestion, all the stones we sell in our store are responsiblysourced. Forevermark is among those that guarantee diamondsare carefully selected to meet “high standards of business, socialand environmental integrity" (less than 1% of the world'sdiamonds are eligible to become a Forevermark diamond).Along with this heightened consciousness is the popularity of“recycling” diamonds: wearing vintage or heritage rings, familyheirlooms which can be adapted and updated for a fresh look.

3.COLOR MY WORLDColor seems to be the biggest driver at retail today. It’s the big story for women’sand men’s fashion on the runways and in thestores. Today’s bride, to set herself apart, mighteven opt for color instead of traditional white forher wedding dress. And color is, of course, also abig trend in engagement rings. Beautiful coloreddiamonds and other colored gemstones are surgingin popularity in no small part due to the Duchess ofCambridge’s (previously Princess Diana’s) gorgeoussapphire engagement ring.

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TRENDS FOR SAME-SEX COUPLESAccording to recent stats, there are currently around 50,000 same-sex marriages in the United States. This number will continue togrow, and many brands are tailoring their designs to appeal to theemerging market. Of course, since same-sex marriages aregrounded in the same traditions as conventional marriages, many ofthese design trends cross over to the mainstream.

VINTAGE AND VINTAGE-LOOK ENGAGEMENT RINGSSome women in same-sex marriages are opting for customaryengagement and wedding rings, but with more of a personalstatement. Perhaps because of the sentimental value that they hold,vintage and vintage-look rings bring to mind the sentiments behinda marriage itself. (ChristineQuinn, New York City’s CityCouncil Speaker, marriedusing her fiancée’s mother’sengagement ring.) Vintage-inspired is also becoming acoveted look in new rings.Pavé-set diamonds, intricate hand engraving, filigree work and halosare all details reflecting this movement.

WEDDING BANDS AND COMMITMENT RINGSLike the alternative lifestyle they represent, same-sex couples arechoosing alternatives for their wedding bands. In traditional yellowor white gold, there might be some kind of unique treatment, likehammered details, on the band. But rings in less common metals arewhere personal statements can really stand out, especially for men.

BioBlu27 Cobalt, the samematerial used in aerospace andmedical applications, has aunique look and is available withdiamonds or without.

And with new ring stylescome new traditions. Some

women are foregoing engagement rings altogether, while men canopt for man-gagement rings: wedding bands worn on the right handbefore the marriage, then transferred to the left during the weddingceremony (a mini-trend in opposite sex relationships, as well).

At the end of the day, says Dan Scott, CMO of Scott Kay, ‘‘Loveis love. We need to remind ourselves that wedding bands are muchmore than jewelry; wedding bands embody precious, lifelong vowsmade between any two people in love." And no matter the sexualorientation, today’s couples are choosing rings that suit theirpersonal style.

5.WIDENYOURHORIZONSWide diamond bands andchannel rings—where theband can be any width withdiamonds filling the“channel” in the center—aretrending as wedding bandsand, in some cases, caneven serve as both theengagement and weddingring. With the high-poweredreal estate it occupies on thefinger, it’s a glamorous andpractical all-in-one statement.

6.MIXING IT UPUsing alternative metals and mixing metals are trends, and the uniqueoptions available have increased at an exponential rate. In both engagementrings and women’s wedding bands, there’s been a strong introduction of rosegold on its own or mixed with white gold, platinum or yellow gold. In men’swedding bands, in addition to the classic yellow gold, white gold andplatinum, there are many examples of alternate metals and materials:everything from palladium, tungsten carbide and cobalt to ceramic, titaniumand seranite, all with two-tone as a leading direction.

4.I’LL TAKE MINEWITH A TWISTYou can’t get much more non-traditionaland unique than a twisted bandengagement ring. It’s an individualstatement with a modern spin that canquickly update the classic solitaire or takepavé in a new direction. In streamlinedmetal or an all-diamond band, it’s anattention grabber either way.

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T H E S T O R I E S BY MICHAL DIMICELI

had always wanted a vintage wedding,and my dream came true on Saturday, June 9th, 2012 when I wed theman of my dreams in Madison, Connecticut. We worked hard to get allthe details right, but I swear it was a few pieces of jewelry from mybeloved late great-grandmother that made the day magical.

My dress was a magnificent 1960s lace gown I discovered at my localconsignment shop. It had puffy shoulders and a high collar, but I saw thepotential and had it tailored into a sleeveless mermaid shape. The veil wasthe original, also from the ’60s, and the engagement and wedding ringswere English platinum dating from the early 1900s.

The ceremony and reception were held at the beautiful MadisonBeach Club, which dates back to the 1920s. My family and I have spentmany happy times there, so it was a delight to share it with 140 people Iadore. We collected old mason jars to use as flower vases, and I decoratedthe reception with family wedding photos going back three generations.

Everything was in place for my vintage theme, but the mostimportant element was surely the influence of my great-grandmother,Mama Crowley. As a kid, I’d spend hours sitting with Mama. She wasconfined to her bed, but always looked elegant in her silk and lace robe,with her pink high-heel slippers waiting on the floor. I can’t remembernow what we talked about, but I do remember loving to be in herpresence and arranging all of her glass figurines and miniature Limogesshoes (a wonderful collection I now own).

Mama Crowley loved family, loved to travel and always lookedstylish. She believed in living life fully and with passion...and that youmight as well look beautiful while you’re doing it! I learned so muchfrom her, and I know that she shaped the woman I am today. Althoughwe lost her almost 30 years ago, I’ve felt her presence throughout mylife, never more so than on my wedding day. My lovely grandmotherJoan is convinced that her mother (Mama Crowley) sent me Joe. He iseverything I could have asked for in a life partner, and exactly who mygreat-grandmother would have chosen for me.

The weather on the morning of June 9th was a little iffy, so myhairstylist (of all people) suggested that I leave rosary beads facing outsideto guarantee sunshine. It just so happens that I had packed MamaCrowley’s rosary beads at the last minute, so my mother dutifully hungthem from the balcony of my hotel room. The weather continued to betouch-and-go for a while, but the minute I took my first step down theaisle, Mama cleared the skies and the weather stayed gorgeous for theremainder of the day. (I should mention that Mama was a novice nunbefore she married, so I’m sure she had some pull…)

Not only did Mama’s rosary beads work their magic on my big day,but I also wore her gold and pearl drop earrings and her pearl andsapphire gold bracelet, connecting me physically, emotionally andspiritually to this amazing lady. I look forward to passing on the love,traditions and family heirlooms to my future family.

Wedding Day Magic

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A GREAT-GRANDMOTHER VISITS A NEW BRIDE…

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With his distinguished good looks and old-world charm, it’slittle wonder that Aaron Basha has established himself as amajor player in the world of fine jewelry. Under his

impassioned leadership, the Aaron Basha collection has flourished,appealing to people across the globe. His charm, wit, charisma,sophistication, personal style and vision have helped propel the brandfrom New York to Europe to Dubai and beyond.

Basha is most famous for his signature collection baby shoe charms, wornby celebrities, in-the-know mothers and adoring grandmothers the worldover. Since 1990, he has designed these fine jewelry charms, charm braceletsand charm necklaces in addition to his trendsetting collection of evil eyes—the ancient talisman of good luck—as well as an exquisite collection ofunforgettable, one-of-a-kind couture pieces. The Aaron Basha collections arediverse, but each piece is infused with wit and whimsy and is designed tocelebrate life, love and good fortune.

Basha prides himself on seeking out the joy in life. Whether in theeveryday or in life’s most celebrated moments, his personal style reflectshis outlook. He believes in fanciful, whimsical, mystical elegance. “To me,the point of dressing with style is about effortless pleasure and puredelight. From our signature baby shoe charms to our evil eye collectionto our array of shirt studs and cuff links, we make dressing well an act ofexpressing whimsy and enjoyment. We are in the business of elegance,but we are also in the business of fun.

“What is life, without marking life’s milestones?” he asks. “Moments ofcelebration come and go, but the charms worn by our customers serve asdaily remembrances of life’s most precious moments. Our charms create avisual biography signifying the touchstones along life’s path. They arewoven into the fabric of life, given by mothers and fathers to daughters,husbands to wives, and children to their parents. Children grow up knowingwhich charm is ‘theirs’ and thus form a lifelong bond with our brand. Thecharms become loving representations that are cherished and handeddown from generation to generation.”

Born in 1930 to parents both in the jewelry business, Basha had anappreciation for fine metals and precious gems in his blood. Trained andcertified as a master diamond cutter by age 16, it was evident that he hadinherited the family gift. This gift, along with his passion for travel, adventureand seeking new experiences across the globe, would shape his future.

In the 1970s, Basha opened his first boutique in Canada, and in the ’80s,he opened another in London’s tony Mayfair district. But wherever heroamed, one thing remained constant: his love of family and hisappreciation of life’s most precious moments.

To celebrate the birth of his first grandchild, Basha crafted a stunningbaby shoe of gold and diamonds for his wife to wear as a charm. And sothe iconic Aaron Basha baby shoe charm was born.

“I am most happy,” Basha reveals, “when I can help people find theperfect piece to express what is in their hearts.”

THE PRINCE OF CHARMSAARON BASHA HAS MARRIED HIS PASSION FOR THE ART OF WHIMSY

WITH HIS LOVE OF FAMILY, RESULTING IN A COLLECTION THAT CELEBRATES LIFE.

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Furniture designer Sylvan Fiss had a wonderfully whimsical idea whilewatching a show about gemstones on the Discovery Channel.Inspired by the other-worldly geometric forms, the Indonesia-based

designer conceived his innovative Popova writing desk in the shape of ameteor-sized gem. So impressed was he with the result, Fiss also translatedthe radiant design (with an $8,600 price tag to match) into a coordinatingmetallic Popova coffee table. Both pieces are now part of the collection forScala Luxury, the Los Angeles-based dealer of upscale home furnishings.

Lorin Marsh was thinking less about gemstones than where to storethem when he came up with the company’s new Jewel Box ottoman,formed in the shape of...you guessed it...a jewel box, upholstered in metallicgold with polished nickel trim. Then there’s designer Gary Hutton’s shapely

bronze and stainless steel Facet and Grand Facet cocktail tables, smallenough to hold a single cocktail and named for the thousands of multi-faceted Swarovski crystals that cover the surface. “I found a woman whoworked for handbag designer Judith Lieber, who sets those stones—7,000in all—one at a time with a pair of tweezers,” says the San Francisco-basedHutton, who works exclusively in stainless steel and bronze. The tablesrange from $4,200 to $14,000.

Much like Dutch designer Marcel Wanders’ idea a few years back to turna hulk of plastic into colorful Stone barstools cut like chunks of tourmaline,

COOL METALLIC FINISHES ADD WARMTH TO ANY HOME. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

INTERIORS

HEAVY METALS

Clockwise from top left: Scala Luxury Truffle Trunk table;Christopher Guy Feather mirror; Ktribe by Philippe Starck metaltable lamp; Lorin Marsh Diamond credenza

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topaz and diamonds, furniture makers are now turning heavy metals—sterling silver, gold, nickel, bronze and even wrought iron and stainlesssteel—into their own beautiful little jewels for the home. In particular,brooches on steroids seem to be a compelling source of inspiration totoday’s metal workers. That would no doubt please the late designer RobertHutchinson, who often equated mirrors with brooches and freelycomplimented those who translated them well. Today the “brooch effect”can be found on everything from mirrors and headboards to table lamps.

T ake for example the work of luxury furniture maker ChristopherGuy, who had Frenchdesigner Coco Chanel in

mind when he presented his newMademoiselle collection of furnishingsand accessories, inspired by the Parisapartment of the influential couturier.Among the offering straight from thedesigner’s jewelry box was a gold andblack balled mirror resembling a strand ofChanel’s famous pearls, another goldmetal feather-framed mirror, reminiscentof a brooch or hat pin, and an upholsteredchair with a golden fan-shaped back. “Thefan-back chair is Coco’ssuccessor’s trademark accessory,”says the designer, referring to thefan-waving Karl Lagerfeld, whohas reigned over the house ofChanel since 1983.

Heather Palmer was clearlychanneling the work of anotherFrench designer, jewelry makerJean Schlumberger, when the SanFrancisco-based glass artistconceived her $3,800 blue SeaFan ceiling light fixture forBespoke Global, theSouthampton, New York atelierfostering the designs of artisancraftsmen from around the world.Looking at the polished nickel andglittering coral-shaped glasssconce, it’s easy to imaginePalmer poring over the early20th-century French jewelry designer’s colorful pins andbrooches in an effort to capture their translucent formsand intricate detailing. Meanwhile, if you didn’t knowotherwise, you might swear Scala Luxury’s nickel-plated brass Jewel Specimen mirror with its starburstshape and colorful goatskin panels set to look like preciousgems was a jeweled family heirloom passed downthrough the generations.

“I was always fascinated by the cuts ofgemstones, the framing and mounting aroundjewels and the color coordination,” saysdesigner Sylvan Fiss, who translated the mirrorafter a piece of jewelry he gifted to his wife. “Iused the gemstone cut on several furniture

pieces that I made for Scala Luxury, but for the Jewel Specimen mirror I hadto integrate some colors and didn’t want to deal with any jewels or stones.Instead I used goatskin that I dyed in different colors, such as eggplant,charcoal gray, celadon green and lapis blue, and finished it in a high glosspolished finish, which really created a fascinating look.” Additional pieces inthe collection include the Truffle Trunk gold leaf side table, which looks

more like a sand-cast gold bracelet than a functional cocktail table,and the Hedge Stone table, made of meteor-sized brass.

“I’ve always said there are only two kinds of people in the world:those who love sparkly things and those who won’t admit it,” says SanFrancisco-based designer Gary Hutton, whose jewel-like designsinclude a stainless steel or bronze Ver mirror featuring spikes ofSwarovski pearls fanning out like a sunburst. “It’s a take on Dutchpainter Johannes Vermeer’s painting Girl with a Pearl Earring,” he says.Look closely at that home you call your jewel box, adds Hutton. Thesedays it might actually be furnished like one.

Of course, there was a time when most people equated metaldesigns with the stark cold interiors of the 1970s, or with the moderntrappings of a museum. But the chill factor is only an illusion, most

designers agree. Rather than mere shinydistractions, theses pieces actually reflect thewarmth of the other furnishings that surroundthem. “With my new Inox New York collectionI’ve moved into mirror-polished stainless steelthat has an immaculate reflection,” explainsNew York designer John Lyle, who worksexclusively in metal. Among his new designsare statuesque Klismos chairs, sinuous barstools and shapely tables wax-cast like jewelryin bronze, nickel and even 24-karat gold. “Thereason these pieces aren’t cold is because theyreflect that Persian or Turkish rug and thosecoral-colored walls. They sort of act as achameleon in the room,” says Lyle, whoseAdelphi mirror for Inox New York is akin to aBaroque earring. But this Baroque mirror ishardly a sign of bad luck; rather, it’s a beautiful

good luck charm. Rather than stand out, itaccentuates a room just as a piece of

jewelry might do to an outfit. Something chemical also

happens when metal designsaccent a room. “Sparkle is reallynothing more than thereflection of light, and human

beings respond dramatically tolight,” says designer Gary

Hutton. “The love of things

that sparkle is just hot-wired into our DNA.”

From top: John Lyle Turtle table; Gary Hutton A-5 cube tables;Christopher Guy Fan chair

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JER

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If you watch Bravo’s cooking shows, Chef George Mendes might be afamiliar face. He appeared on the third season of Top Chef Masters,which won him many foodie fans of the (mostly) female variety. But sex

appeal isn’t the only dish Mendes serves up. For this first-generationAmerican born to Portuguese parents, cooking has always been about thefresh, the local, the in-season, the simple: in other words, the most deliciousfoods nature has to offer. Growing up in Danbury, Connecticut, Mendes wasalways surrounded by good food. He’d help his mother and aunt in thekitchen and work in the garden out back with his father.

As a result, Mendes enjoys working with his hands. It was either a careerin interior design and architecture, or working as a chef. His decision to cookcame ultimately, he says, “because I constantly have to be in motion anddoing something; I couldn’t be stuck in an office.”

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York,he worked under culinary legends Alain Ducasse and David Bouley andrefined his palate in France, Spain, San Francisco and D.C. at a number ofMichelin-starred hotspots. In 2009, he finally went solo to open Aldea inNew York City. The rustic yet classic restaurant featuring Spanish, Frenchand Portuguese influences has already scored a Michelin star of its own,been deemed one of the country’s 10 best new restaurants by GQ’s AlanRichman, and helped Mendes become a finalist for the James BeardFoundation’s Best Chef New York Award.

Accent managed to catch Mendes in a rare free moment to chat abouthis impressive accomplishments.

What’s your ideal meal?I love my beef. At Keens Steakhouse, I dig into a nice porterhouse, a Caesar

salad, some oysters and wine. A good steak on my day off helps me feelnourished and relaxed.

You’ve traveled a lot during your career. Besides New York’s,what other food scenes do you take inspiration from?My family roots in Portugal are a huge influence. I go twice a year and lovevisiting the local cafés, beer bars and gastropubs. Everything is so simplyprepared and fresh. Also, Paris, the south of France, Barcelona and SanSebastian are important to me. That’s where I spent my early years learning.What Canada and Denmark are doing with the foraging movement is anothergreat influence. It’s nothing extremely new though, just a return to the basics.

It’s funny that people today see eating locally as a trend. Everything is in season somewhere in the world. It’s my responsibility as achef to utilize what’s nearby, support farmers, focus on what is sustainablefor the area and care about our oceans. It’s a responsibility I take seriously.

How do your Portuguese roots shape your sensibility as a chef?My parents are immigrants and farmed their own food. They continued a lotof those values at our home in Connecticut. We had a garden that I’d helpmy dad prepare each season. It was a way of life for us. Our kitchen tablewas especially influenced in the spring and summer months because of thatgarden. It taught me the importance of knowing where my food came from.

The [Portuguese] culture, the homey rustic feel of eating at home duringthe holidays, and the feasts my family would prepare are my strongestmemories. Christmas, New Year’s Eve and Thanksgiving were always biglavish feasts that my mom and aunt would spent days preparing for.

FIRST-GENERATION FAMECHEF GEORGE MENDES IS A NATIONAL TREASURE. BY SHIRA LEVINE

FOOD

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How do you describe the cuisine at Aldea?I operate with my history in mind: the Portuguese were seafarers andexplorers, discovering new lands. We brought spices and new flavorsthat influenced a lot of menus. Aldea is Portuguese-inspired withglobal influences. Early on, Portugal had colonies throughout theworld, so you can see flavors from Brazil, Japan and India in my menu.You can also see my French training in there. All of my exploring hashelped define my style.

What is your presentation style?Minimalist. I like to focus on the color of food. My favorite time of yearis spring, where all these edible colors pop out naturally. I’m not one tomanipulate. I love the bounty of what comes in during those months.And maybe it’s my Mediterranean roots, but I love to enjoy my meals inthe sun.

I know the term ‘fusion’ is kind of overused...I hate the word fusion. Some chefs will mismatch cuisines just to becreative, but they don’t necessarily know what they’re doing in terms ofpairing flavors. You should know your history and combine things becausethey work. You don’t just pair because you want to create some new,unheard-of style. These fusion chefs overlook history and ancestry. Truecooking comes from your heart, your ancestry, what was in your home.

What are some exciting things on your menu right now?We’re using a lot of ramps, wild leeks, wild onions and wildflowers. We’reworking with a forager, Evan Strusinski, who is bringing in things from thewild—herbs and plants not readily available from our regular sources. We’realways looking for new ingredients. We’re using chickweed, different kindsof mints and wintergreens, fiddlehead ferns, ramps and all kinds of excitingstuff in the mushroom category.

If you’ve never eaten at Aldea, try the sea urchin toast; it’s refined andelevated. Or anything with shrimp, my duck rice... I’d say they all encompassrustic refinement.

That’s a lot to introduce to the average (potentially not-so-adventurous) eater!It’s about coming across what grows naturally in the woods that peopledon’t know they can eat. The forager has been providing us with things thatI didn't know existed!

For winter we’ll work with more robust, heartier flavors. Warm foods withan elevated level of refinement. Look for the tripe stew with root vegetablesand quail eggs. Plus, winter means blue truffle season.

Are there plans to open a second restaurant?We have plans but there is no forecast. When the right place comes along,then it’s the right time. We need a place that allows our vision to flourish,so it could take another 18 months to come together.

You were on Top Chef Masters, so you’ve got an insider’sperspective on the reality show business. What are yourthoughts about these cooking shows?I’m really split on it. Food TV can have a great impact on business, but itreally depends on the chef’s desires. Does he want to be on TV, or doeshe want to be in his restaurant? Top Chef Masters was difficult, but it wasa fantastic experience. Some of the food shows are just aboutentertainment; they pretty much forget the food. But Tom Colicchio and

Top Chef really give food the opportunity to shine. I love to be in myrestaurant, but it was a great platform for exposure.

Would you do TV again?I would, if it were the right fit. I’d love an educational role where I teach thepublic about Portuguese cuisine, about growing your own food and eatingas local as possible. I don’t want to be formed into a character.

Do you have a cookbook in the works?It’s scheduled for spring 2014. It will be about Aldea, and be an introductionto Portuguese cuisine for the home cook. It will also include the story of mylife and, of course, some great recipes.

61

Eggs Baked withPeas, Linguiça

and Baconextra-virgin olive oil,as needed

11/2 ounces slab bacon cutinto 1/2-inch slices, then into 1/4-inchbatons

1/2 white Spanish onion,finely diced

3 garlic cloves, thinlysliced

1 fresh California bayleaf, notches tornevery 1/2 inch

1 pinch crushed redchile flakes

3 tbsp. strainedtomatoes

2 ounces linguiça, cutinto 1/2-inch dice

1/4 ounce chorizo, casingremoved and thinlysliced

2 cups frozen petit peaskosher salt to taste

4 large eggs1/2 cup parsley leaves,

choppedfresh lemon juice,to taste

Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a4-quart cocotte over mediumheat. Add just enough olive oilto coat the bottom, then addthe bacon. Cook, stirring

occasionally, until the fat isrendered and the bacon lightlybrowned, about 4 minutes.Transfer the bacon to a dish.

Add the onion, garlic, bayleaf and chile flakes to thecocotte and cook, stirring, untiltender but not browned, about3 minutes. Add the tomatoesand 1 teaspoon olive oil andcook, stirring and scrapingdown the sides of the pan, for 4minutes. The tomatoes shouldbe sizzling steadily. Stir in thelinguiça, chorizo, reservedbacon and 1 teaspoon olive oil.Cook, stirring occasionally, untilheated through, about 2minutes. Stir in the peas andseason to taste with salt.

Make 4 little nests for theeggs in the mixture, spacingthem a few inches apart.Carefully break an egg intoeach nest, making sure eachegg is nestled in the stew andflush with the top.

Transfer to the oven andbake until the egg whites areset but the yolks are still runny,about 8 minutes.

Top with the parsley andseason to taste with lemonjuice. Serve immediately.Serves 4.

FROM GEORGE MENDES’ KITCHEN

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T o the casual tourist, the Hotel L’Orologio is a luxurious boutique innoverlooking Florence’s famed Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with a themerelating to clocks and watches. But to those who share owner Sandro

Fratini’s passion for horology (the measurement of time), the hotel is a treasuretrove of memorabilia and unique design, with discoveries around every corner.

Fratini owns the small upscale hotel chain WTB (which stands for Whythe Best?) with six hotels in Florence; he is also chairman of Super RifleS.p.A, the parent company of Rifle jeans. A lifelong collector of vintagewatches, he owns more than two thousand, mainly from his three favorite

brands: Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. At L’Orologio,Fratini has been able to combine his affinity for fine watches with his talentfor consumer marketing, creating a singular and fascinating hotelexperience.

Each room at Hotel L’Orologio is identified in two ways: with a room number,as you might expect, and also with a name corresponding to a watch owned bySignore Fratini. Each floor is devoted to a particular brand: the first to VacheronConstantin, the second to Rolex, and the top two floors to Patek Philippe. Withineach room are photos or artwork related to its namesake watch.

For true watch aficionados, however, the real excitement is found onthe ground floor, within rooms off the lobby. Claudio Delli, general managerof WTB Hotels, showed off the incredible details waiting to be discoveredby those who choose to look more closely. Among them: the exclusivemirrors designed in the style of Rolex watch bands, and the sundial etchedinto the floor beside a reflecting pool that appears to be illuminated bystellini, tiny stars in the ceiling above. Then there are the door handles in theshape of Rolex watch hands (sometimes called Mercedes because they’resimilar to the Mercedes logo), and the hand-painted reproductions of watch

faces that decorate the floor in the smoking lounge beside Il Bar de L’O. Butthe pieces de resistance were the elegant busts of Messieurs Patek andPhilippe that grace the pedestals in the sitting area. One could spend hourscataloging the little touches that make this hotel unique in the world.

WTB plans to roll out L’Orologio as their premier nameplate to other“artistic” cities in Italy, with new hotels planned for Venice and Rome. Thecompany also markets L’Orologio products including scarves, alligatorsneakers and other items, with an eye toward building L’Orologio into aninternationally recognized brand.

NO

LET’

S G

IN

IT’S ABOUT TIMEAT FLORENCE’S HOTEL L’OROLOGIO, THE MAGIC IS IN THE DETAILS. BY STU NIFOUSSI

TRAVEL

ONE COULD SPEND HOURS CATALOGING THE LITTLE TOUCHES THAT MAKE THIS HOTEL UNIQUE IN THE WORLD.

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!!

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330 0 Jambo r ee Road • www. f jme r c ede s . c om

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“WE KNOW IT’S NOT HOW MANY CARS WE SELL

BUT HOW MANY CUSTOMERS KEEP COMING BACK.”

--- FLETCHER JONES, JR.

2013 SL550 ROADSTER

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EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

TRUFFLE TIME!Every autumn, New York’s famed SD26 offers white trufflesgathered in the Piedmont region of Italy. To celebrate thearrival of these delicacies, the restaurant presents a specialmenu (through December). Marisa May, who owns and runsSD26 with her father, Tony May, has a favorite among theelaborate dishes: uovo in raviolo con burro tartufato.Created by Nino Bergese (personal chef to the last king ofItaly) and now prepared by SD26 chef Matteo Bergamini, asingle, large raviolo is stuffed with a barely cooked eggwhose yolk spills forth into a sauce of brown butter, allunder a mantle of white truffles. SD26’s wine director,Michael Doctor, pairs this treat with a Barolo, La Corda dellaBriccolina, Batasiolo 1995. Ms. May ha gusto bella.

UPSTAGEDRenée Fleming, the Simon Bolivar Symphony Orchestra of Venezuela, and the New York Pops are just a few of the artists performing at Carnegie Hall thisseason. You could buy tickets, but to really be involved in these remarkable occasions, join the Patrons. You’ll have access to rehearsals and meet-the-artistcocktail parties, a ticket concierge to arrange for special seating requests, and the very glamorous Opening Night Gala. In addition, Patrons are offered oneof the most fascinating insider experiences in New York City: while telling stories and sharing his extraordinary knowledge, Carnegie Hall archivist GinoFrancesconi escorts Patrons on a private tour up, down and all around, including visits to the Maestros’ Suite and other fascinating parts of the historichall. Chances are this excursion will end on a high note.

PerfectGemsCH

RIS

LEE

SLH

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LAGERFELD’SODYSSEY It’s hard to imagine Monte Carlo’s belle epochHotel Metropole being any more stylish. Agathering place for the social and chic since1886, the Metropole has lavish guest rooms, acomfortable bar with outstanding wines, and aconcierge who can arrange pretty muchanything, from racecar driving to co-piloting afighter jet. However, the Metropole is addingadditional opulence. Designer Karl Lagerfeld hasrecently revamped the outdoor spaces—including the pool, terrace and gardens—andeven added a new Joel Robuchon restaurant(this one has a Mediterranean-influenced menu).One of Lagerfeld’s most impressive innovationsis a fresco-style installation of 15 imposing glasspanels portraying Ulysses’ journey.

ACTIVE ISLANDAh, winter vacation. You might locate a secluded beach and stretch outin the sun. Or, you could sail over to the Bitter End Yacht Club on VirginGorda, where there’s lots to do. Take to the water: Bitter End’s fleet hasover 100 vessels, including sailboats, catamarans, kayaks, paddleboatsand motorboats. Shape up: Fitness guru Andrea Metcalf offers one-on-one training. Give a party: Bitter End will bring in a major musical act(The Beach Boys and Michael McDonald have been booked in the past).Indulge: Winston’s Bakery is known around the world for its breads,pastries and luscious desserts. And if you really just want to chill: BitterEnd has three white sand beaches where you can simply sit.

WEAVING PAST AND PRESENTVojtech Blau is the only business in the United States dedicatedexclusively to tapestries. By appointment only, clients can discoversome of the world’s most exquisite examples of woven art. DirectorSimona Blau, a brilliant historian and art collector, started with creationsfrom the 16th through 18th centuries and has recently added worksthough the mid-20th century. Among the marvelous pieces displayedon the walls of her attractive showroom are Flemish and Brugestapestries along with creations by Alexander Calder, whose interest intapestry led him to partner directly with Aubusson weavers, and SoniaDelaunay, one of the greatest translators of a modernist considerationof color and form to the material and texture of tapestry. Brilliantcombinations of ancient skill and contemporary art.

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ACROSS

1. This cut has 56 facets and is used on mostdiamonds today, since it maximizesreflected light (a stone’s natural fire).2. Ring that features an insignia, monogram,coat of arms, or family crest4. Method of applying enamel to metal inwhich the design is first outlined on themetal surface using a metal wire. The spacebetween the wires is then filled with enameland fired to a glossy sheen.5. From the French for “lemon,” a rareyellow type of quartz, a semi-precious stonethat ranges in color from pale yellow toorange to golden brown7. Design style (also known as Belle Epoque)popularized during the reign of Edward VIIof England (1901-1910), describing jewelrythat is delicate and elegant, often featuringbows, diamonds and filigree8. A stone (usually a diamond) that hasbeen cut into a long, rectangular shape;“stick” or “rod” in French10. One of the flat surfaces of a cutgemstone or glass13. Often referred to as the finest of theprecious metals15. Pearls produced by the large oysterPinctada maxima in white, silver and gold.These tend to be the largest, rarest andmost expensive pearls, coveted for their softglow and large size.16. A trinket or piece of jewelry thought tobe a protection against evil18. A mineral, a type of chrysoberyl, whichappears to be different colors depending onwhether it is viewed in natural or artificiallight21. Gemstone with a rounded, domedsurface with no facets; a carbuncle22. Ring set with a single stone

DOWN

1. The amount of white light that reflectsthrough or from the surface of a gemstone3. A yellow-green variety of olivine used asa gem; the birthstone for August6. Intricate metalwork that is often open tothe back, frequently flowery with manycurves and spirals9. Form of the mineral quartz, most popularin purple, but can range in color from palelavender to a deep, reddish purple, to green;

birthstone for February11. Popularized during the Victorian era,carvings traditionally done with shell orstone. Popular motifs include a silhouette,bust, or florals, carved in relief with acontrasting color background.12. Design style popular from 1895 throughWorld War I, characterized by curves,naturalistic designs and sensual art13. An organic gem grown within oystersand a few other mollusks, formed after aforeign object (like a tiny stone) has madeits way into the mollusk’s shell14. Dark colored pearls produced by thelarge, black-lipped pearl oyster, a molluskfound in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean;also called black pearls

15. Popularized in the Edwardian era, a verylong necklace that showcases either a tasselor pendant. Traditional styles used rope ormetal fashioned to look like rope.17. Japanese word meaning “something astiny as you can imagine,” such as a grain ofsand. Used originally to describe very smallpearls, it’s now used to refer to all very smallnacre baroque pearls.19. Translucent fossilized tree resin thatcomes in many colors, including yellow.Rubbing this gem produces static electricity.20. A white precious metal that’s extremelyexpensive and is often used to plateprecious and base metals, giving jewelry ahard, platinum-like sheen

A Fine Jewelry Puzzle

Dazzle & Shine

15

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8 9

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22

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CROSSWORD

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T H E O R I G I N A T O R O F C U L T U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

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