TR ULT MAD 19 - BIRDQUEST · 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 -tours.com Cuckoo-Roller (Mike Galtry) After an early breakfast a short drive took us to the coast where

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 www.birdquest-tours.com

Long-tailed Ground Roller (Chris Kehoe)

ULTIMATE MADAGASCAR 8 – 25/29 October 2019

LEADER: CHRIS KEHOE Our recent Madagascar tour produced a wealth of fabulous birds and mammals. We explored a wide range of habitats, from the species rich eastern rainforests to the spectacular spiny forests of the far west, and from estuaries and offshore islands to the rugged central plateau. The accolade of Bird of the Trip went to the sensational Schlegel’s Asity; quite an achievement in the face of competition from the likes of the spectacular and much-wanted Helmet Vanga, all of the wonderful ground rollers and mesites, the remarkable Cuckoo Roller, a plethora of fantastic couas, Malagasy Harriers right overhead, Madagascan Fish Eagles almost at touching distance and many, many more. While Malagasy endemics were inevitably our main focus, we were pleased to see several choice, but more widespread, species such as sublime Red-tailed Tropicbirds and Crab Plovers, the latter joined by a vagrant Sooty Gull. This being Madagascar it was not all about birds and we made a special effort to see as many of the islands amazing mammals as well, being well rewarded with a total of 22 lemur species, ranging from the diminutive mouse lemurs to the largest of them all, the stunning Indri, the evocative wailing calls of which echoed through the hill forests. Ring-tailed Lemurs, many of which had young, where watched at close range but perhaps best of all were the delightful Sifakas, of which we saw three different species. The weather during the tour was generally fine though a little drizzly at times and, apart from losing most of one afternoon to heavier rain, everything ran smoothly - an advantage of minimizing the number of internal flights taken on the notoriously unreliable national airline. The word unique is easily overused but is entirely appropriate in relation to Madagascar which fully deserves its unofficial title of the ‘eighth continent’.


Having gathered the previous day, our tour began with an all-day drive south from the capital, Tana, to Ranomafana in the eastern highlands. A few common and widespread species were seen en route such as Dimorphic Egrets, Squacco and Black Herons, Mascarene Martins and Yellow-billed Kites. After a lunch stop in Ambositra we visited a small marsh near Ivato where we eventually found a couple of Madagascan Snipes along with Red Fodys, Madagascan Buzzard and Madagascan Swamp Warbler. We finally reached our comfortable base for the next three nights about an hour after dark.

Red-tailed Vanga (tour participant Mike Galtry)

Early the next morning we were birding around the entrance to Ranomafana NP and watching our first Rand’s Warbler, Madagascan Bulbuls, Drongos, Green Sunbirds and White-eyes. Blue Vangas showed very well here, a couple of Madagascan Starlings flew over and a Blue Coua appeared. We spent the rest of the morning inside the forest where Grey-headed and Spectacled Tetrakas quickly appeared and shortly afterwards the first of two fabulous Pitta-like Ground Rollers performed nicely. Pollen’s Vanga is a key species here and we watched one putting the finishing touches to its nest. Our first lemurs, a small group of Red Browns, were also seen, as were stunning Velvet Asitys and our only Dark Newtonia. We eventually tracked down a much-wanted Brown Mesite which gave some great views courtesy of our energetic local guides. In the afternoon we birded along the road where several Ward’s Vangas showed very well along with our first Chabert Vangas and a very showy Red-fronted Coua. An obliging Forest Rock Thrush eventually appeared and just as it started to get dark we took up positions at a tree baited with banana where a couple of tiny Rufous Mouse Lemurs showed at very close range. After enjoying a close encounter with a roadside Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher, we spent the next morning at Vohiparara NP. After a long hike along the trails there we eventually heard a Rufous-headed Ground Roller calling and managed to coax it in for a series of brief views as it repeatedly crossed the path in front of us. Further highlights here included a couple of Common Sunbird-Asitys, including a vivid male, and a surprisingly showy Madagascan Yellowbrow along with further Pitta-like Ground Rollers, Grey-crowned Tetrakas, Velvet Asity and others. The mammal highlight this morning was a close encounter with a couple of striking Red-bellied Lemurs but a couple of Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemurs where also much appreciated. In the afternoon we drove to Amboditanemena and hiked to the marsh there where we eventually found a few Grey Emutails.


A fly-by Meller’s Duck was a great bonus before we departed, as was a showy Madagascan Starling at the roadside as we returned towards our hotel.

Pitta-like Ground Roller (Mike Galtry)

Before departing the Ranomafana area we spent 90 minutes birding along the road with highlights including another obliging Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascan Cuckoo (much easier to hear than see!) and Forest Fody. By late morning we were at Anja where we diverted to a small area of protected forest at the base of some impressively huge granite outcrops. Ring-tailed Lemurs are the main attraction here, the first of many seen were on view within a couple of minutes of our arrival. Also in the area were our first Grey-headed Lovebirds, a couple of Madagascan Hoopoes and Madagascan Harrier Hawks plus some impressive Oustelet’s Chameleons. After a picnic lunch we continued westwards, later crossing the Horombe Plateau, where Madagascan Larks and Cisticolas were seen, before reaching the rugged sandstone landscape at Isalo where we ended the day watching a cooperative pair of ‘Benson’s’ Rock Thrushes at the museum there just before sunset. We were out before sunrise in pursuit of the tricky Madagascan Partridge, finally seeing one in flight at the third location we searched. After breakfast we resumed our westward progress towards the coast at Tulear but stopped after 90 minutes and spent the rest of the morning birding at the excellent Zombitse NP, home of the extremely localised Appert’s Tetraka, which showed very well after a short search. Zombitse hosts a large population of Cuckoo Rollers with calling birds constantly audible until mid-morning and with a few seen very well, both perched and in their spectacular display flights. Our only Giant Coua of the main tour was most welcome too along with the likes of Rufous Vanga and a roosting White-browed Owl. The mammal highlight at Zombitse was undoubtedly a couple of inquisitive Verreaux’s Sifakas which even did a little dance for us. After lunch we continued westward, stopping at a site for Madagascan Sandgrouse along the way which produced good flight views of four birds. After dropping off our bags in Tulear we visited the nearby La Table area, home of two very localised specialities, Verreaux’s Coua and the dapper Red-shouldered Vanga. Both of our targets were quickly found thanks to the efforts of our excellent local guide, the famous Mosa. As icing on the cake we also saw our first Running and ‘Brown’ capped Couas before the light began to fade, the latter posing nicely in the scope for superb views.


Cuckoo-Roller (Mike Galtry)

After an early breakfast a short drive took us to the coast where we boarded zebu carts that transported us to a waiting boat and then set off towards the supposedly deserted, sacred island of Nosy Ve, now complete with market stalls, wooden boardwalks and fisherman’s shelters! As our boat approached the island we were relieved to see a small group of much-wanted Crab Plovers were present along with a few Greater and Lesser Crested Terns, Common Terns and Sanderlings but most surprising of all was a vagrant Sooty Gull, a species only recorded in Madagascar a couple of times previously. Moving to the north end of the island we waded ashore and were immediately enjoying wonderful views of many Red-tailed Tropicbirds coming and going from nests under scrubby bushes and, at least for now, seemingly untroubled by the burgeoning human presence on their island. We eventually set off to the nearby mainland at Anakao where a pair of Littoral Rock Thrushes quickly appeared. After drinks our boat returned us to Tulear where 4x4’s were waiting to take us the short distance up the coast to Ifaty, two quick stops along the way giving us ‘Madagascan’ Three-banded Plovers and Madagascan Plovers to round off a very productive morning. After a bite to eat and a short rest at our beachfront lodgings we made a first visit to the nearby spiny forest reserve. It was still rather warm when we arrived but as the temperature began to subside the birds became more active and, thanks to our hard-working local guides, we enjoyed wonderful views of a pair of Long-tailed Ground Rollers, a perched Madagascan Sparrowhawk and both Thamnornis Warbler and Archbold’s Newtonia. Back at the hotel at least three Madagascan Nightjars performed well in the fading light. We were back at the spiny forest before sunrise and soon off in pursuit of our remaining targets there. Top priority was Subdesert Mesite and we were taken to see a bird sitting on its nest. Further highlights before the temperature rose and the birds fell silent were several ‘Chestnut-vented’ Crested Couas, Madagascan Buttonquails and Sickle-billed Vangas and, after a lengthy search, the very localised Lafresnaye’s Vanga. Happy with our haul we returned to Ifaty salt flats where there was no sign of the hoped-for Humblot’s Heron so we continued to Tulear Lakes where 30 Lesser Flamingos were a surprise and we managed to coax a Baillon’s Crake into showing itself briefly. Also seen here were a couple of Greater Painted Snipes, Madagascan Mannikins, Madagascan Swamp Warblers and a selection of migrant shorebirds. After sitting out the hottest part of the day at our hotel we returned to the spiny forest for a final time. With all of our key targets already seen we could relax and take in the remarkable surroundings but there was much to see too, not least


a fine Madagascan Nightjar at its day roost, a perched Madagascan Harrier Hawk, our first Madagascan Spinetails and a host of previously seen species. We were shown a sleepy sportive lemur (of a yet to be fully described species) and, best of all, a fabulous Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec.

Running Coua (Mike Galtry)

After breakfast we began the return journey to Tulear. A stop at Ifaty salt flats revealed the semi-resident Humblot’s Heron to be present and showing well and we had repeat views of a Madagascan Plover there before making a quick visit to Tulear Lakes where a Baillon’s Crake was seen in flight and a locally scarce Wood Sandpiper appeared briefly. Our flight to Tana had been rescheduled for late morning but for once Air Madagascar’s unreliability worked in our favour and prevented a very late arrival at our next base. After an on-time flight and a bite to eat in Tana our driver fought his way through the Tana traffic and we were eventually heading east towards Perinet where we arrived about 90 minutes after sunset. We began our time in the Perinet area with a visit to the excellent VOI reserve. A fleeting Madagascan Flufftail refused to be coaxed into clear view but much more obliging was a fabulous roosting Collared Nightjar seen at close range. As we watched the nightjar a Red-breasted Coua wandered into view too! Nearby, a troupe of Indris were on view while a pair of Nuthatch Vangas attending a nest showed very well in the scope. Our first Hook-billed Vanga also appeared and a superb male Crossley’s Vanga circled around us giving great views. We were then taken to see roosting Madagascan Owl and Rainforest Scops Owls. Back at the hotel a fruiting attracted a group of Madagascan Blue Pigeons that showed superbly. Our afternoon birding was hampered by increasingly heavy rain that eventually forced us back to the hotel, but not before a White-throated Rail had been encouraged to show itself at the roadside. The rain continued all night and it was still rather drizzly in the morning, all of which led to a rather tricky drive on dirt tracks to Antavolobe Reserve, indeed only one of our three 4x4’s managed to complete the journey. Once we had all reached the trailhead we set off towards the forest where a Helmet Vanga on its nest was our much-anticipated quarry. The lengthy walk in to the appointed area was enlivened by great views of a pair of Short-legged Ground Rollers before we descended onto narrower trails, made a couple of river crossings and finally reached the nest site. The bird was not in residence so we settled down to wait, seeing a few bits and pieces as we did so. We waited and waited, eventually eating our box lunches, expecting the bird to appear at


any moment. After several hours time was getting a bit tight as we had a long walk back to our waiting vehicles. Our local guide had gone off exploring and eventually arrived with the news that another Helmet Vanga was sitting on a nest three kilometres away, we set off there immediately. It was quite a hike, involving no fewer than 20 river crossings, but we finally got to the site, only to be confronted by another empty nest. All thoughts of getting back to the cars in daylight had long since evaporated but the idea of having to negotiate all those river crossings in the dark meant we had to give ourselves a time limit of 30 minutes and just hope the bird returned in time. Fifteen minutes later it was there, in all its glory, to much relief all around. We managed to get back to the main trail about 30 minutes after darkness fell and eventually reached our hotel at 22.30. The restaurant had very kindly stayed open for us and those who had not just collapsed into bed enjoyed a three-course meal and a few celebratory beers!

Helmet Vanga (Mike Galtry)

After such a late finish we had a more relaxed start to the day than normal before setting off for Mantadia NP. Once there we visited a small forest pool where a single Madagascan Little Grebe was immediately on show and soon afterwards a couple of Meller’s Ducks appeared, as did our first Common Moorhens. We spent the rest of the morning in the forest where Scaly Ground Roller played very hard to get, despite us visiting three active territories, though a few people managed brief views. Diademed Sifakas were added to our growing lemur list and a good selection of forest species appeared in a couple of mixed vanga flocks. During our lunch break in a clearing a few Madagascan Spinetails appeared overhead along with several Madagascan Buzzards. We eventually made our way back towards Perinet but stopped near the Mantadia Gate and tried hard for Madagascan Rail but without success. Later in the evening a dusk walk was much more productive with great views of Goodman’s Mouse Lemurs and Furry-eared Dwarf Lemurs. With Scaly Ground Roller in the forefront of our minds a return to Mantadia was in order. In the end it took us all morning, and many kilometres (though not nearly as many as our indefatigable guide Patrice), to finally track one down for good views as it called away from a fallen log. A Madagascan Ibis was also seen this morning, along with many previously seen species and, as luck would have it, we found another Scaly Ground Roller running along the trail ahead of us as we approached our lunch spot. Another lengthy search for Madagascan Rail eventually resulted in brief views for all before we ended the day near the VOI reserve where


our first Madagascan Green Pigeon was found but a briefly calling Madagascan Wood Rail refused to cooperate. A final morning in the Perinet area saw us make a visit to Perinet Special Reserve (now renamed Analamatsoa NP) in search of Madagascan Wood Rail, a species we were surprised not to have encountered previously. A couple of White-throated Oxylabes (a catch-up species for some) showed very well, a female Crossley’s Vanga was seen on its nest and a roosting Rainforest Scops Owl was seen very well but pride of place went to a superb performance by a group of Velvet Asitys. The Wood Rail still eluded us however so we set off to the VOI reserve where a helpful local guide showed us one in its nest, though not too much of it was actually visible! Nearby a group of Indris moved through the trees before we returned to the hotel for an early lunch before setting off back towards Tana. A stop at the Mangoro River gave us good scope views of a single Madagascan Pratincole. Once in Tana we joined the traffic jams before finally reaching Lac Alarobia, a haven of peace in the bustling city, where masses of nesting herons and loafing ducks were present. The star attraction here is the declining Madagascan Pond Heron and it didn’t take too long to find a few amongst the assembled Dimorphic Egrets and others on their nesting island. Several Knob-billed Ducks were notable here too, along with a few overhead Madagascan Black Swifts.

White-throated Oxylabes (Mike Galtry)

After an early breakfast we began the long drive north to Ampijoroa. The journey was not without interest as, aside from the stunning central plateau landscape, we came across several Malagasy Harriers and a single Madagascan Partridge shot across the road in front of us. We reached Ampijoroa in time for a little late afternoon birding around the parking area where we were well entertained by several Sickle-billed Vangas, a White-headed Vanga, a very cooperative troupe of lovely Coquerel’s Sifakas and a single Mongoose Lemur. During dinner a Torotoroka Scops Owl began calling nearby and was briefly visible in the spotlight before flying deeper into an out of bounds area of the forest. While searching for the owl we also came across a single Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemur. After another early start we were on our way north to the coast at Majunga where a boat was waiting to take us across the bay to the Betsiboka Estuary. Passage was quick on the thankfully calm sea and we reached the mangrove covered islands of the estuary just as the high tide was peaking, perfect timing for the best


possible views of the area’s specialities, Malagasy Sacred Ibis and the subtly attractive Bernier’s Teal, both of which performed admirably. Also seen were large numbers of wintering shorebirds including our only Greater Sandplovers and Common Ringed Plovers though several Terek Sandpipers and an unexpected Bar-tailed Godwit were the pick of the bunch. Dimorphic Egrets were abundant here but in contrast to everywhere else we visited the large majority were dark morph individuals. By mid-afternoon we were back at Ampijoroa, where a Frances’s Sparrowhawk was a welcome, if somewhat overdue, find near the parking area where Madagascan Hoopoes and Turtle Doves showed well. Later on, we boarded a small boat for a trip around the Lac Ravelobe. The undoubted star here is a pair of Madagascan Fish Eagles and we had sensational views of both adults and a fresh juvenile, the second produced in two years after well over a decade when they didn’t breed successfully. A Humblot’s Heron showed extremely well too along with many other previously seen species. As darkness descended we walked along a track adjacent to the Ankarafantsika Reserve where we found Grey and Golden-Brown Mouse Lemurs and a couple of Western Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemurs along with several Chameleons. There was no sight or sound of Torotoroka Scops Owls during or after dinner but we did come across an unexpected Barn Owl.

Madagascan Fish Eagle (Mike Galtry)

A very busy morning began with a visit to the dry forest just north of Lac Ravelobe. Several Madagascan Green Pigeons showed well in a fruiting tree and Crested Couas were conspicuous but our main target, the stunning Schlegel’s Asity was playing hard to get. After a long search we finally tracked down a pair that simply couldn’t have given better views, perching at eye level for several minutes. Well pleased with this, and after enjoying final looks at a Madagascan Buttonquail; we set off to another area of forest in search of our remaining targets. The first of three Red-capped Couas showed nicely along the sandy trails and later on a single Coquerel’s Coua completed our coua set. The very localised and sometimes tricky Van Dam’s Vanga was quickly found too and we went on to see four individuals along with a couple of Rufous Vangas, several Long-billed Bernierias and others. It wasn’t long before we heard our final target and were soon enjoying wonderful views of up to six White-breasted Mesites stalking along in the leaf litter. By now it was decidedly hot so we retreated to the restaurant area for cold drinks and a spot of lunch. After sitting out the heat of the day we drove south to an area of wetlands near Amborondola where the scarce Madagascan Jacana, a species that had eluded us so far is sometimes present. Eventually a single immature Jacana was located and showed quite well. On lily


covered lakes nearby we found large numbers of African Pygmy Geese and a couple of Allen’s Gallinules showed in the scope.

White-breasted Mesite (Chris Kehoe)

After breakfast we began the long drive back to Tana where the main tour ended in the evening. We stopped at the Betsiboka River crossing where we had seen a Madagascan Pratincole a few days earlier and enjoyed stellar views of a bird most unexpectedly foraging at the roadside. Closer to Tana we found Malagasy Harriers once more and reached our hotel at sunset, giving those leaving Madagascar tonight plenty of time to freshen up and enjoy a final dinner together before departing to the airport. The Southeastern Madagascar extension began with a morning flight to Fort Dauphin and we spent the afternoon at the headland there where a few ‘Madagascan’ Gulls flew by. Despite much hopeful scanning there was no sign at all of any Humpback Whales but we did see several foraging Wedge-tailed Shearwaters offshore and a single Brown Skua. Early the next morning we were on our way towards Andohehela NP but it soon became clear that the road into there was now in a terrible state. Progress was slow as our 4x4 negotiated the deeply rutted track until we eventually reached a completely impassable section. After negotiating with the locals we were allowed to drive through a nearby village to by-pass what we hoped would be the final tricky stretch but not long after returning to the main track it became clear that further progress would be impossible. Forced to abandon our attempt for the rare and localised Red-tailed Newtonia we reluctantly began the return journey towards Fort Dauphin. At the junction a vehicle soon arrived to take us to Berenty on another very poor road but we reached there by mid-afternoon and were soon settling into our comfortable rooms. The star attractions at Berenty are its abundant and very confiding Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux’s Sifakas (plus introduced Red Brown Lemurs) and we enjoyed wonderful views of each this evening, our first of many magical Berenty lemur encounters. Most unexpectedly, a White-footed Sportive Lemur was out foraging in broad daylight before retiring to its roost hole, while a visit to the adjacent gallery forest gave us a roosting Torotoroka Scops Owl and an incredibly close and prolonged encounter with a Giant Coua. At dusk we drove the short distance to an area of spiny forest and walked the trails there for an hour which produced excellent views of four Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs and another White-footed Sportive Lemur plus a White-browed Owl.


A full day at Berenty gave us the opportunity to enjoy numerous close encounters with lemurs, Ring-tailed Lemurs lingered, largely indifferent to us, near our rooms but out on the quieter trails Verreaux’s Sifakas seemed as interested in us as we were in them, often bouncing to the nearest tree and looking us straight in the eye. We began the day though with a visit to the adjacent sisal fields where we managed to track down a couple of Madagascan Sandgrouse for great views on the ground. In the gallery forest were White-browed Owls and Hook-billed Vangas amongst others. In the afternoon we explored the nearby spiny forest where Torotoroka Scops Owl and Madagascan Nightjar were found roosting and we had a final encounter with the marvellous Running Coua.

Giant Coua (Chris Kehoe)

After final looks at some of the Berenty’s wonderful birds and mammals, we began the drive back to Fort Dauphin. A final look offshore again revealed no whales, perhaps they had already returned to their Antarctic feeding grounds. By early afternoon we were at the airport where an on-time flight delivered us to Tana where the extension ended in the evening. Bird of the Trip 1 – Schlegel’s Asity 2 – Helmet Vanga 3 – Long-tailed Ground Roller 4 – Running Coua 5 – White-breasted Mesite


Verreaux’s Sifakas (Chris Kehoe) and spiny forest at Ifaty (Mike Galtry)


Ranomafana rainforest (Mike Galtry) and Red Fody (Chris Kehoe)


Schlegel’s Asity – Bird of the Trip (Chris Kehoe)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR The species names and taxonomy used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org. Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species). BIRDS Total number of birds recorded: 186 Helmeted Guineafowl (introduced) Numida meleagris Two at Amboditanemena, numerous at Berenty. Madagascan Partridge ◊ Margaroperdix madagarensis One in flight at Isalo and another north of Tana. White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Noted at four wetland sites, about 200 at Lac Alarobia. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Up to seven at Lac Alarobia. African Pygmy Goose Nettapus auritus Over 30 south of Ampijoroa. Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota Six at Tulear Lakes, two at Lac Alarobia and about 200 at Lac Amboromalandy. Meller's Duck ◊ Anas melleri One at Amboditanemena and two at Mantadia. Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Abundant at Lac Alarobia, several elsewhere. Bernier's Teal ◊ (Madagascar T) Anas bernieri Six at the Betsiboka Estuary gave superb views. Collared Nightjar ◊ Gactornis enarratus Great views of a roosting bird at VOI, Andasibe. Madagascan Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus madagascariensis Some great views at Ifaty and Berenty, a few elsewhere. Madagascan Spinetail ◊ Zoonavena grandidieri Two at Ifaty, a dozen at Mantadia/Perinet and one at Ampijoroa. Malagasy Palm Swift ◊ Cypsiurus gracilis Noted on 10 dates. Recently split from African Palm Swift.


Malagasy Black Swift ◊ Apus balstoni A few over Tana and north of there. Little Swift Apus affinis A few in Tana. Seems to be a recent colonist there. Malagasy Coucal ◊ Centropus toulou Seen on 13 dates, many others heard.

Bernier’s Teal (Mike Galtry)

Collared Nightjar (Mile Galtry)


Crested Coua ◊ Coua cristata Six at Ampijoroa. Crested Coua ◊ (Chestnut-vented C) Coua [cristata] pyropyga Three at Ifaty and 10 or more at Berenty. Verreaux's Coua ◊ Coua verreauxi One near Tulear. Blue Coua ◊ Coua caerulea Several in the rainforests on five dates. Red-capped Coua ◊ Coua [ruficeps] ruficeps Three at Ampijoroa.

(Chestnut-vented) Crested Coua (Chris Kehoe)

Subdesert Mesite (Mike Galtry)


Red-capped Coua ◊ (Brown-capped C) Coua [ruficeps] olivaceiceps A couple near Tulear and Ifaty. Red-fronted Coua ◊ Coua reynaudii Three at Ranomafana, heard at Mantadia. Coquerel's Coua ◊ Coua coquereli One at Ampijoroa. Running Coua ◊ Coua cursor One near Tulear, three at Ifaty and one at Berenty, Coua of the Trip! Giant Coua ◊ Coua gigas One at Zombitse and a four at Berenty. Red-breasted Coua ◊ Coua serriana One at VOI showed uncharacteristically well.

Red-breasted Coua (Chris Kehoe) and Crab Plovers (Mike Galtry)

Madagascan Cuckoo ◊ Cuculus rochii Heard often, seen on five dates. White-breasted Mesite ◊ Mesitornis variegatus Up to six put on a great show at Ampijoroa. Brown Mesite ◊ Mesitornis unicolor Close views of one at Ranomafana after quite a long search. Subdesert Mesite ◊ Monias benschi One on its nest at Ifaty. Madagascan Sandgrouse ◊ Pterocles personatus Four between Zombitse and Tulear, five at Berenty. Rock Dove (introduced) (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia Present in some towns. Malagasy Turtle Dove ◊ Nesoenas picturatus Noted on 11 dates in wooded areas. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Fairly common in arid country after the first near Tulear. Madagascan Green Pigeon ◊ Treron australis Two near Andasibe, several at Ampijoroa and Berenty. Madagascan Blue Pigeon ◊ Alectroenas madagascariensis Prominent at our hotel near Andasibe, a few elsewhere. Madagascan Wood Rail ◊ Mentocrex kioloides One on a nest at VOI. Madagascan Flufftail ◊ Sarothrura insularis Brief views of three in the eastern rainforests, others heard. Madagascan Rail ◊ Rallus madagascariensis One near the Mantadia gate. White-throated Rail ◊ Dryolimnas cuvieri One at Perinet, others heard. Baillon's Crake Porzana pusilla One or two at Tulear Lakes. Allen's Gallinule Porphyrio alleni Two south of Ampijoroa. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Noted at four wetland site. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis About 15 at Tulear Lakes. Madagascan Grebe ◊ Tachybaptus pelzelnii One at Mantadia Lake. Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor About 30 near Tulear and Ifaty, a similar number at the Betsiboka Estuary. Madagascan Buttonquail ◊ Turnix nigricollis Five at Ifaty, some showing very well, one at Ampijoroa. Crab-plover Dromas ardeola Four on Nosy Ve. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Several at Tulear Lakes, a few north of Ampijoroa. Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola A few at coastal sites. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Up to 30 at the Betsiboka Estuary.


Madagascan Blue Pigeon (Mike Galtry) and White-throated Rail (Chris Kehoe)

Madagascan Plover ◊ Charadrius thoracicus One at Ifaty salt flats. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Numerous near Tulear and Ifaty.


Three-banded Plover ◊ (Madagascar T-b P) Charadrius [tricollaris] bifrontatus Two near Ifaty. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Two or more near Ifaty. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Over 150 at the Betsiboka Estuary. Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis Two at Tulear Lakes. Madagascan Jacana ◊ Actophilornis albinucha One immature south of Ampijoroa. Whimbrel (Eurasian W) Numenius [phaeopus] phaeopus Several at coastal sites. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica One at the Betsiboka Estuary.

Madagascan Pratincole (Chris Kehoe) and Sooty Gull (Mike Galtry)

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Two near Tulear. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea About 15 near Tulear, up to 500 at the Betsiboka Estuary.. Sanderling Calidris alba About 10 on Nosy Ve and 20 near Ifaty. Little Stint Calidris minuta One at Tulear Lakes, scarce in Madagascar. Madagascan Snipe ◊ Gallinago macrodactyla Two at Ivato Marsh. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Fifteen at the Betsiboka Estuary. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ones and twos on eight dates. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola One at Tulear Lakes, scarce in Madagascar. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Several near Ifaty and one at the Betsiboka Estuary. Madagascan Pratincole ◊ Glareola ocularis Singles at the Mangoro and Betsiboka River crossings. Sooty Gull Ichthyaetus hemprichii One at Nosy Ve, a vagrant to Madagascar, the second or third record. Kelp Gull ◊ (Madagascan G) Larus [dominicanus] melisandae About six at Fort Dauphin. Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii About 20 near Tulear and one off Fort Dauphin. Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis About 40 near Tulear. Common Tern Sterna hirundo Six at Nosy Ve. Brown Skua Stercorarius antarcticus One off Fort Dauphin. Red-tailed Tropicbird ◊ Phaethon rubricauda Up to 30 on Nosy Ve, some with nests. Wedge-tailed Shearwater Ardenna pacifica Up to 15 off Fort Dauphin. African Darter Anhinga rufa One at Ampijoroa. Malagasy Sacred Ibis ◊ Threskiornis bernieri About five at the Betsiboka Estuary. Madagascan Ibis ◊ (M Crested I) Lophotibis cristata One at Mantadia. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax About 200 at Lac Alarobia, a couple elsewhere. Striated Heron Butorides striata Small numbers on six dates. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Numerous at Lacs Alarobia and Ravelobe, several elsewhere. Malagasy Pond Heron ◊ (Madagascar P H) Ardeola idea Four or five at Lac Alarobia. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Widespread in less arid areas. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Singles near Ifaty and the Betsiboka Estuary. Humblot's Heron ◊ Ardea humbloti One at Ifaty salt flats and another at Lac Ravelobe. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Small numbers on six dates after the first near Ivato. Great Egret Ardea alba Small numbers on seven dates.


Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Common at Lac Alarobia, where breeding, a few elsewhere. Dimorphic Egret ◊ Egretta dimorpha Widespread, sometimes common.

Red-tailed Tropicbird (Mike Galtry)

Rainforest Scops Owl (Chris Kehoe) and Humblot’s Heron (Mike Galtry)

Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Ones and twos as we travelled. Madagascan Harrier-Hawk ◊ Polyboroides radiatus Ones and twos on six dates after the first at Anja. Frances's Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter francesiae Just one, at Ampijoroa.


Madagascan Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter madagascariensis A pair at Ifaty. Malagasy Harrier ◊ Circus macrosceles Five north of Tana gave some splendid views. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius Quite common as we travelled, abundant at Berenty.

Short-legged Ground Roller (Mike Galtry) Madagascan Fish Eagle ◊ Haliaeetus vociferoides Three at Ampijoroa, great views. Madagascan Buzzard ◊ Buteo brachypterus Noted on 13 dates. Western Barn Owl Tyto alba One at Ampijoroa. Torotoroka Scops Owl ◊ Otus madagascariensis Brief views in the spotlight at Ampijoroa, two roosting at Berenty. Rainforest Scops Owl ◊ Otus rutilus Two roosting birds near Andasibe.. White-browed Owl ◊ Athene superciliaris One at Zombitse and two at Berenty. Madagascan Owl ◊ (M Long-eared O) Asio madagascariensis A roosting bird near Andasibe. Cuckoo Roller ◊ Leptosomus discolor Great views at Zombitse, where common, heard elsewhere. Madagascan Hoopoe ◊ Upupa marginata Small numbers on eight dates in more arid areas. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus Fairly common, in dry forests in particular. Short-legged Ground Roller ◊ Brachypteracias leptosomus Great views of two at Antavolobe. Scaly Ground Roller ◊ Geobiastes squamiger Two at Mantadia after a lot of searching.


Pitta-like Ground Roller ◊ Atelornis pittoides Three at Ranomafana/ Vohiparara. Rufous-headed Ground Roller ◊ Atelornis crossleyi A rather sneaky individual at Vohiparara. Long-tailed Ground Roller ◊ Uratelornis chimaera A showy pair at Ifaty, always a firm favourite.

Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher (Mike Galtry) and Malagasy Kingfisher (Chris Kehoe)

Velvet Asity (Mike Galtry)

Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher ◊ Corythornis madagascariensis Two at Ranomafana and two in the Perinet area. Malagasy Kingfisher ◊ (Madagascar Malachite K) Corythornis vintsioides Noted on six dates. Olive Bee-eater (Madagascar B) Merops superciliosus Widespread, often common.


Malagasy Kestrel ◊ Falco newtoni Very widespread, seen most days. Greater Vasa Parrot ◊ Coracopsis vasa Seen on four dates after the first at Ifaty. Lesser Vasa Parrot ◊ Coracopsis nigra Noted on 11 dates after the first at Ranomafana. Grey-headed Lovebird ◊ Agapornis canus Six encounters after the first at Anja. Velvet Asity ◊ Philepitta castanea Four at Ranomafana/ Vohiparara and three at Perinet. Schlegel's Asity ◊ Philepitta schlegeli Fabulous views of a pair at Ampijoroa – Bird of the Trip. Common Sunbird-Asity ◊ Neodrepanis coruscans A couple at Vohiparara. Red-tailed Vanga ◊ Calicalicus madagascariensis Seen on five dates after the first at Ranomafana, others heard. Red-shouldered Vanga ◊ Calicalicus rufocarpalis A showy male at Tulear Tablelands.

Nuthatch Vanga (Mike Galtry) and Crossley’s Vanga (Chris Kehoe)

Hook-billed Vanga ◊ Vanga curvirostris One at VOI and two at Berenty. Lafresnaye's Vanga ◊ Xenopirostris xenopirostris Two at Ifaty. Van Dam's Vanga ◊ Xenopirostris damii Two at Ampijoroa. Pollen's Vanga ◊ Xenopirostris polleni Three at Ranomafana/ Vohiparara, one at a nest. Sickle-billed Vanga ◊ Falculea palliata Four at Ifaty and a similar number at Ampijoroa. White-headed Vanga ◊ Artamella viridis A handful at Ampijoroa, heard or glimpsed elsewhere. Chabert Vanga ◊ Leptopterus chabert Noted on seven dates after the first at Ranomafana. Blue Vanga ◊ Cyanolanius madagascarinus Four at Ranomafana and another at Zombitse. Rufous Vanga ◊ Schetba rufa Singles at Vohiparara and Zombitse, a couple more at Ampijoroa. Helmet Vanga ◊ Euryceros prevostii One on a nest at Antavolobe at the eleventh hour! Tylas Vanga ◊ Tylas eduardi Small numbers in eastern rainforests. Nuthatch Vanga ◊ Hypositta corallirostris A nesting pair at VOI and a couple more in the wider Perinet area. Dark Newtonia ◊ Newtonia amphichroa Just one at Ranomafana. Common Newtonia ◊ Newtonia brunneicauda Widespread, recorded on 11 dates. Archbold's Newtonia ◊ Newtonia archboldi Three at Ifaty. Ward's Flycatcher ◊ Pseudobias wardi Three at Ranomafana and a couple more in the Perinet area.. Crossley's Vanga ◊ Mystacornis crossleyi One at VOI. Madagascan Cuckooshrike ◊ Ceblepyris cinereus Small numbers on nine dates. Crested Drongo Dicrurus forficatus Widespread. Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher ◊ Terpsiphone mutata Seen daily in wooded contexts. Pied Crow Corvus albus Numerous in arid country.


House Crow Corvus splendens One, presumably ship-assisted, in Fort Dauphin – a write-in. Madagascan Lark ◊ Eremopterix hova Fairly common in arid areas. Malagasy Bulbul ◊ Hypsipetes madagascariensis Widespread and common. Mascarene Martin ◊ Phedina borbonica Seen almost daily.

Long-billed Bernieria (Mike Galtry)

Brown-throated Martin (Plain M) Riparia paludicola Three widespread encounters. Malagasy Brush Warbler ◊ Nesillas typica Widespread apart from in the arid southwest. Subdesert Brush Warbler ◊ Nesillas lantzii Several in the southwest. Madagascan Swamp Warbler ◊ Acrocephalus newtoni Noted at three marshland sites. Grey Emutail ◊ Bradypterus seebohmi Two or three at Amboditanemena. Brown Emutail ◊ Bradypterus brunneus (H) Heard distantly at Vohiparara but uncooperative. White-throated Oxylabes Oxylabes madagascariensis Small groups at Ranomafana and Perinet. Long-billed Bernieria (L-b Greenbul, Common Tetraka) Bernieria madagascariensis Noted on five dates. Wedge-tailed Jery ◊ Hartertula flavoviridis Twos at Ranomafana and Mantadia. Thamnornis ◊ (T Warbler) Thamnornis chloropetoides Two at Ifaty. Spectacled Tetraka ◊ ( Short-billed T) Xanthomixis zosterops Seen on four dates after the first at Ranomafana. Appert's Tetraka ◊ (A Greenbul) Xanthomixis apperti Two at Zombitse. Grey-crowned Tetraka (G-c Greenbul) Xanthomixis cinereiceps A small handful at Ranomafana/ Vohiparara. Madagascan Yellowbrow ◊ Crossleyia xanthophrys Two at Vohiparara, one of which showed very well. Rand's Warbler ◊ Randia pseudozosterops A few were seen at Ranomafana, others heard. Common Jery ◊ Neomixis tenella Seen or heard on 12 dates. Green Jery ◊ Neomixis viridis Small numbers at Ranomafana and in the Perinet area. Stripe-throated Jery ◊ Neomixis striatigula Seen or heard on seven dates. Madagascan Cisticola ◊ Cisticola cherina Prominent in drier areas in particular, recorded most days. Malagasy White-eye ◊ Zosterops maderaspatanus Regular encounters in wooded areas. Common Myna (introduced) Acridotheres tristis Common and widespread. Madagascan Starling ◊ Hartlaubius auratus Eight at Ranomafana. Madagascan Magpie-Robin ◊ Copsychus albospecularis Widespread encounters on 11 dates. Littoral Rock Thrush ◊ Monticola imerina A pair at Anakao.


Forest Rock Thrush (Mike Galtry)

Forest Rock Thrush ◊ Monticola sharpei One near Ranomafana, a couple more heard. Forest Rock Thrush ◊ (Benson's R T) Monticola [sharpei] bensoni A pair at Isalo. Madagascan Stonechat ◊ Saxicola sibilla Several in the highlands, including central Tana. Souimanga Sunbird ◊ Cinnyris sovimanga Common and widespread. Malagasy Green Sunbird ◊ (Long-billed G S) Cinnyris notatus A couple after the first at Ranomafana. House Sparrow (introduced) Passer domesticus Several in Majunga and one near the Betsiboka crossing. Nelicourvi Weaver ◊ Ploceus nelicourvi Ones and twos most days at rainforest sites. Sakalava Weaver ◊ Ploceus sakalava Common in arid areas. Red Fody ◊ Foudia madagascariensis Seen on seven dates in open country and in central Tana.. Forest Fody ◊ Foudia omissa Two at Ranomafana. Madagascan Mannikin ◊ (M Bibfinch) Lepidopygia nana Small numbers on six dates. Madagascan Wagtail ◊ Motacilla flaviventris Fairly common in the highlands, nesting at our Tana hotel. MAMMALS Total number of mammals recorded: 26 Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec Echinops telfairi One at Ifaty. Lowland Streaked Tenrec Hemicentetes semispinosus Two in the eastern rainforests. Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus A handful in the Perinet area and at Ampijoroa. Mongoose Lemur Eulemur mongoz One at Ampijoroa. Red-bellied Lemur Eulemur rubriventer Two at Vohiparara. Red Brown Lemur (Red-fronted BL) Eulemur rufus Three at Ranomafana, common at Berenty where non-native. Golden Bamboo Lemur Hapalemur aureus (NL) One at Ranomafana. Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur (Grey B L) Hapalemur griseus Two at Vohiparara and two in the Perinet area. Ring-tailed Lemur Lemur catta Numerous at Anja and Berenty. Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata (H) Heard in the distance at Mantadia. Milne-Edwards's Sportive Lemur Lepilemur edwardsi One at Ampijoroa, several more heard there. White-footed Sportive Lemur Lepilemur leucopus Four at Berenty.


‘Black-shouldered’ (‘Spiny Forest’) Sportive Lemur Lepilemur sp. nov. One at Ifaty.

Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec and Goodman’s Mouse Lemur (Mike Galtry)

Lowland Streaked Tenrec (Chris Kehoe) Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus crossleyi Several in the Perinet area. Western Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus medius Two at Ampijoroa. Grey-brown Mouse Lemur (Reddish-grey M L) Microcebus griseorufus Four at Berenty. Goodman's Mouse Lemur Microcebus lehilahytsara Two near Perinet. Grey Mouse-lemur Microcebus murinus One at Ampijoroa. Golden-brown Mouse Lemur (Golden M L) Microcebus ravelobensis Two at Ampijoroa. Rufous Mouse Lemur Microcebus rufus Two at Ranomafana. Indri Indri indri Great looks in the Perinet area. Coquerel's Sifaka Propithecus coquereli Very cooperative at Ampijoroa. Diademed Sifaka Propithecus diadema Showy at Mantadia. Verreaux's Sifaka Propithecus verreauxi Two at Zombitse, common at Berenty. Eastern Red Forest Rat Nesomys rufus One at Mantadia Madagascan Flying Fox Pteropus rufus Several at their roost site at Berenty.


Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux’s Sifaka (Chris Kehoe)

Documents

TR ULT MAD 19 - BIRDQUEST · 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 -tours.com Cuckoo-Roller (Mike Galtry) After an early breakfast a short drive took us to the coast where