Toys For Boys€¦ · The elevator module is designed to run along guide rails situated both sides of the lift shaft. I have seen a number of elevator designs, this one seems to be

Toys For Boys

Table of Contents

Toy Car Garage

Toy Car Garage 2

Cars

Toy Racing Car 16

Batmobile Toy Car 26

Sedan Toy Car 33

Roadster Toy Car 39

Motorcycle

Wooden Toy Motorcyce 59

Batman Motorcycle Scroll Saw Pattern 72

Trains

Wooden Toy Train 79

Trucks

Truck Mk6 Winch Operated 95

Truck Mk1 Lever Operated 121

Dump Truck Midi 133

Dump Truck Mini 148

Truck Mini 156

Earth Moving Construction Toys

Road Grader 159

Road Roller 169

Airplane

Wooden Toy Airplane 183

Bonus Wooden Toy Plans

197

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Toy Car Garage Plans List1. Plan View Sheet 1

2. Plan View Sheet 2

3. East Section View

4. Parts List

5. Cutting List

6. Details

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Tony

Typewriter

Visit wooden-toy-plans.com for more free plans

http://wooden-toy-plans.com/more-toy-plans

Building Guide Toy Car Garage

It's always a good idea to have a careful look at the plans. Start by marking out the parts of your sheet of MDF or plywood.

Step By Step Instructions

It's always a good idea to have a careful look at the plans. Start by marking out the parts of your sheet of MDF or plywood.

Each step is on a separate page if you want to priint them.

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Elevator Construction Details.

The elevator module is designed to run along guide rails situated both sides of the lift shaft.

I have seen a number of elevator designs, this one seems to be the easiest and most practical way.

The guide rails are made from half-round dowel.

There is a corresponding v-cut groove in the sides of the elevator, which allows the elevator to run up and down the elevator shaft.

Step 1

Make the lift shaft. Fix the half round dowel lift guide to both sides of the lift shaft L1. Fix the supports in place as shown.

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Step 2

Make the car lift. Cut a V-groove in parts L3. Adjust the size of part L4 to ensure that it will run smoothly inside the lift shaft.

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Step 3

Ground floor assembly. Cut a bevel on the edges for the toy cars after marking out the position of the walls.

Glue the walls and the lift shaft in place. This forms the support for the first floor. Fix the support for the first floor ramp.

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Step 4

Fix the first floor in place. Fix the first floor ramp. Fix the edge surround (shown red) in place.

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Step 5.

Second floor assembly. Fix the second floor supports in place as shown. Fit the second floor ramp. Fix the edges in place.

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Conclusion

I certainly hope you have enjoyed making this project. Use this contact me form if you would like to submit your project to the photo gallery.

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http://wooden-toy-plans.com/gallery

http://wooden-toy-plans.com/Contact-Us

Plans List Toy Racing Car1. Full Size Templates

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wooden-toy-plans.com

Building GuideToy Racing Car

The photo shows the racing car driven by Big Heart Bear. In spite of it's simple appearance, there is a bit of a challenge, which relates to getting the wheels to fit neatly into the wheel arches.

Use contrasting wood for the fenders, and laminate a darker piece in the middle to give it that “go faster” racing stripe.

Materials.

Pine 19mm (¾ inch) thick by 100mm (4 inch) wide x 800mm (31 ½ inch) long. Optional meranti ordarker wood 12mm (½ inch) thick by 75mm (3 inch) wide by 260mm (10 ¼ inch) long.

For the template, use thin MDF board or masonite or plywood 260mm (10 ¼ inch) long by 140 (5 ½ inch) wide.

For the axle, use 6mm dowel at least 180mm long.

Tools.

This toys can be made with a limited number of power tools. Safety is the first consideration when dealing with power tools. This is a list of tools that I used:

• Jigsaw for cutting a rough outline.

• Bandsaw when cutting more accurate outline.

• Drill press.

• A circle cutter modified to cut wheels instead of holes.

• Router with a 6mm round-over bit, but you can use a wood file or sandpaper.

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http://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels

http://wooden-toy-plans.com/home-from-PDF

• A 12 inch disk sander, but it's not essential to this project.

Step by step instructions.

Download and print the toy car plans on your home printer. Trace the outline of the body shape and the mudguards onto thin MDF or plywood or even stiff card and cut it out.

For the wheels to fit in the wheel arch, it is important that the centre of the wheel arch and the hole for the axle are drilled accurately. To do this, I place the mudguard template over the body template and drill a pilot hole through both templates.

Step 1

The photo shows how a pair of nails through the template ensures the accurate placement of the wheel arches.

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Step 2

Using my trusty drill press, I cut the holes that will form the wheel arches. A drill press is strongly recommended for this step.

The leftover centres can be used to make a pair of wheels.

Clicking on the link will take you to a page for instructions on how to make your own wooden toy wheels.

Cut and paste the link into your web browser:

https://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels

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Step 3

Using a half round file to remove the burr left by the modified circle cutter.

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Step 4

1. Make a template for the body and use it to cut a rough shape on as many pieces of wood that you may want to use for the body. I used two pieces of 19mm pine and a contrasting piece of 12mm meranti sandwiched in the middle.

The photo showing the parts rough cut ready to be glued together. Note the template in the foreground and for what it's worth, the mudguard with the wheel arches cut out in the background.

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Step 5

2. I cut the mudguards to shape with the bandsaw, then used the 6mm roundover bit in a router to round over the edges. If you are not comfortable using a router on such small pieces of wood, it would be much safer using a half round bastard file and 80 grit sandpaper.

Note that the wheel arches are to be rounded over on one side only as the other side is to be glued to the body.

3. Clamping the mudguard to a sawhorse, I cut it in half with a tenon saw. This is where I used the 12 inch disc sander to square off the middle part, and to shape the two ends.

4. By now the glued up body parts has set enough for me to handle it. I cut out the shape with a bandsaw, then sanded the saw marks away with a combination of a half round bastard file and 80 grit sandpaper. This is where a drum sander would've come in handy.

5. Round off the edges of the body with a 6mm round over bit in a router. If you are not comfortableusing a router on small bits, use a half round bastard file and 80 grit sandpaper .

6. I only thought about this afterwards, so you can benefit from my mistake. Staining the mudguards a deeper colour or using contrasting food colouring would make the toy more attractive, so now is the time to do it before gluing the mudguards in place. My mistake was to try to stain it afterwards, and the problem is that the glue makes the stain blotchy.

Wiping the glue off before it sets, fair enough, but have a look at step 12. and you will see it is virtually impossible to do this.

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Step 6

Hold the mudguards in place, mark and drill the holes for the axles. Now, with the wheels on, glue the mudguards. Try not to apply too much glue at this stage. I suggest marking the areas to be gluedlightly with a pencil.

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Step 7

The photo showing the clamps in place. This also illustrates the wisdom of pre-staining mudguards before assembly, as noted in step 10.

When the glue has set, you can apply a dab of glue to the axles to fix the wheels in place, and viola, you now have your very own road racer.

Finishing

There are many ways to apply a finish to a wooden toy. I have used food colouring on pine to good effect.

Link to child safe paints for finding a non toxic paint that is child safe and zero volatile organic compounds in an over-toxicated world an article on non toxic paint by Deliah Jones.

Conclusion


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http://wooden-toy-plans.com/non-toxic-paint

Batmobile Toy Car Plans List1. Full size pattern for the body

2. Full size pattern for the fenders

wooden-toy-plans.co

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Tony

Typewriter

For the body, you can use 2 pieces 19mm thick with a contrasting piece 12mm thick sandwiched in the middle. This will make the the body 50mm wide. The wheels are 19mm thick and 50mm diameter.

wooden-toy-plans.co

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Tony

Typewriter

Optional extra wheels.

Tony

Typewriter

Fenders are 12mm thick contrasting timber.

Building Guide Batmobile Toy Car

Materials

Any scrap wood or recycled timber can be used to make this toy car.

o make this one I used pine board about 500mm long and about 95mm wide, with a piece of 12mm thick maple sandwiched in between.

The total thickness for the body come to 50mm or 2 inches.

The fenders were made from recycled barbecue measuring about the same, but only about 15mm thick. Not sure what wood it is, but it does contrast very well with the pine.

I used a hole saw of 51mm diameter, which produces a wheel of about 45mm across, a little smallerthan commercially available wooden wheels.

This is a link to a page on how I use a fly cutter to make my own wheels.

Copy and paste the URL http://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels

The wheels are painted with food colouring, mixing all the colours to create the black colour.

I started by pasting the paper pattern onto piece of thin MDF and cutting out the shape with a scroll saw. This enables me to make an outline onto the work-piece to see how it will fit.

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Showing the outline of the two body halves. The idea is to have the end grain forming a V shape in the front.

There is even space for two wheels.

No point in wasting precious wood, even if it is only recycled.

Lay the template onto the work piece to show how the wheel fits. Note the fender shapes are back toback, making it a little easier to cut on the scroll saw. Find it better than having too many small pieces.

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Using my trusty (modified) circle cutter to cut out part of the fender pattern. I could use this as a front wheel, or add to my collection of home made wheels.

Another reason to keep the piece intact to make it easier to clamp in place.

To glue the fenders to the body, use paper discs where the wheel arches are going to be cut out.

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Using a round chisel to carve out the flutes that gives the characteristic rocket power.

Using a hole saw to cut out the wheel arches.

Final steps

Round over the sharp edges, glue the wheels in place and viola! All you need to do now is to fire upthe rockets and take it for a test drive.

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Toy Car Design Plans List1. Full Size Temple Fender

2. Full Size Temple Body

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Building Guide Toy Car Design

Simple, smart and stylish wooden car designs. Simple and easy to make scroll saw project, ideal for beginners and a relaxing project for experienced woodworkers.

Tools

Tools are an essential part of working with wood, and having the right tools can make a difference in how much you enjoy the hobby of making wooden toys and other woodworking projects.

To make this wooden toy car, I used a scroll saw. You could also use a band saw if you have one. If you have the patience and determination, you could even make this toy with a fret saw.

To cut the wheel arches, I used a modified fly cutter. This also gives me a set of wheels. More aboutthis is Step 2.

You may prefer to use a set of standard wheels bought from any number of suppliers.

A drill press is recommended for accuracy and if you are going to be using a fly cutter. I make my wheels with an electric drill mounted in a drill stand.

I find a B&D Workmate is another useful tool, and I made my own workbench.

The short answer: cut 4 pieces 230mm long x 90mm wide x 19mm thick.

For this project, I used some Jelutong wood. It is quite soft compared to most other wood types, ideal for carving and it’s a joy to cut with a scroll saw, especially if you are a beginner scroll saw-er like me.

Most of the time I use Pine wood for making my toys, and sometimes I find a piece of exotic wood.

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Most of the toys I make are basically prototypes or proof of concept, generally for the joy of making toys and to make the photographs for these instructions.

So, use whatever you have, and as far as I am concerned, Pine is fine.

Step by Step instructions

Step 1

Glue two of the pieces you have cut out together. This will become the body.

I like to cut out the fender shape in one piece, so to do this, I make a paper sandwich.

The photo shows the paper sandwich fender part and the wheel making step, all in one go.

Much easier to show you a photo than to try to describe it.

Notice how I have clamped the work-piece with a backing board. If you have a drill press, I recommend the slowest speed setting, otherwise the fly cutter gets really hot and will burn the wood.

It is also important to pre-drill the holes for the axles. This fly cutter will only cut through half way, so you are going to have to turn the piece around and drill from the other side.

This step is essentially like making your own wheels. Some people would use a hole saw instead, and that is fine. One thing to remember is that the hole saw diameters are measured for the holes they make, so be aware that the wheel will come out slightly smaller.

Another thing about making wheels with a hole saw is to allow the sawdust to escape. One way to do this is to cut the hole close enough to the edge.

Step 3

Cutting out the fender shape on the scroll saw or band saw is quite straightforward. No fancy tricks here.

However, to make the body shape, there is an internal shape to cut out. Impossible on the band saw, and quite awkward on an entry level scroll saw like mine.

So, what I suggest is to make a relief cut on the underside of the bodywork, where it is less noticeable.

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Step 4

Test fit the pieces. The wheels are held in place with the dowels to check how the wheel arches fit. All looks good at this stage.

Now I am going to round over all the edges. For the fenders, I shall be rounding over the outer edges a bit more that in inside edges, so I make a pencil mark on each of the inside faces.

Final assembly

Once all the edges are rounded over, it’s time to glue everything together. I use wood glue, and to stop the pieces from moving under clamping pressure, I like to use wooden dowels.

Here I decided to try something different: metal dowels in the form of small one inch nails, driven into one side, cut the heads off and sharpen with a metal file.

Allow about 6mm or so of the nail sticking out. With the wheels in place, apply the glue and firmly push the fender in place, keeping an eye on the gap around the wheel arches. Do the same with the other side.

Remove the wheels, and clamp the assembly, wiping off excess glue.

Here I have stained the fenders a dark mahogany colour.

Toy Car Roadster Plans List• Parts Template

• Fender Template

• Chassis Diagram Not To Scale

• Fender Diagram Not To Scale

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Building Guide Toy Car Roadster

Plans List

1. Body Template

2. Mudguard Template

3. Chassis Sketch Not To Scale

4. Template Sketch Not To Scale

Introduction

This toy is inspired by the roadster models of the 1930's.

The completed toy approximate measurements:

315mm (12.4”) long

160mm (6.3”) wide

115mm (4.5”) high

The toy is deceptively simple, it represents an interesting challenge to experienced woodworkers and toy makers, yet simple enough for beginners.

The basic method of construction is made up of three sub-assemblies:

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1. The body assembly, steps 1 to 5.

2. The chassis, step 6.

3. The mudguards, steps 7 to 9.

Step 10 shows how the body sub-assembly is fixed to the chassis, and step 11 shows how the mudguards and wheels are fixed in place.

There are several types of radiator to make.

The final step is to fit all the parts together and apply the finish of your choice.

Tools

This is a short list of power tools used in this project.

Power drill corded or battery powered.

Drill press with a circle cutter for making wooden wheels.

Bandsaw.

Router mounted in a router table.

Tenon saw, also known as a back saw.

Combination square

Woodworking clamps.

Hacksaw to cut the dowel axles to length.

Wood file to round over all the edges.

Sanding block with 120 and 80 grit sandpaper.

A selection of drill bits.

Step by Step Instructions.

Each step is listed on a separate page.

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http://astore.amazon.com/circle-cutter-20

Step 1

Cut out the parts A through D, making sure to cut outside of the line.

Parts B, C and D are made up of three pieces laminated together. While the glue is setting, make a template of the mudguard from thin card, plywood or MDF.

The photo shows the parts rough cut and placed in position on one side of part A.

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Step 2

Parts B, C and D are trimmed to size and sanded smooth.

The photo shows the red lines as the surfaces to trim, leaving the green edges untrimmed at this stage.

The idea is to trim these areas once the parts are glued together in the next step.

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Step 3

The photo above shows parts A, B and C glued together. The area shown red is left untrimmed. Thiswill be done in Step 7 once part D (the rumbler seat) is in place.

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Step 4

Mark the position of the hole for the hinge pin in part D.

The photo above shows part D in place. Note the red line on part A marking the position of the hinge dowel.

Measure 150mm or 5 7/8” from the red line to the blue wedge shape as shown. This is cut out in thenext step to form the bonnet.

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Step 5

Cutting out the bonnet shape with a band saw.

Sand the complete assembly to a smooth finish and round over all the edges with a 6mm round overbit mounted in a router table.

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Step 6

Cut out the parts E and F that make up the chassis. Note the width of part E should match the thickness of parts B (and C) so that the overall width of the chassis matches the width of the bodywork.

The diagram above shows the parts E and F that make up the chassis and part D in place, with the hinge dowel shown purple. Note that the holes for the wheels are not drilled at this stage.

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Step 7

Using the template made earlier to mark out the shape of the mudguards. Cut the heads off two nails. Drill two small holes to suit, and mount the template on the workpiece as shown. Trace the oultline, then flip the template over the axis as shown by the red line and trace the corresponding mirror outline.

The red line also represents the line to cut along.

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Step 8

Attached a second piece with wood screws in each corner as shown. Don't apply any glue at this stage.

Using a circle cutter mounted in a drill press, cut out a 50mm [2”] wheel as shown. This has the effect of cutting through one layer, leaving a groove in the second layer.

Using a plunge router, rout the hole to a depth of 25mm [1”] as show in the diagram.

Dissemble, apply glue and reassemble.

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Step 9

Showing the pair completed mudguard assemblies.

Once the glue has set, cut the assembly in half along the red line as shown in step 8.

The corners are rounded over with a 6mm [1/4”] roundover bit in a router mounted in a router table.

Note the red dots highlight the small indentations left over from making the wheel arches. These indentations are used in part to determine the position of the holes for the axles in the next step.

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Step 10

Showing the chassis being fixed to the bodywork.

Note Part D in place. The red dot shows the position of the hinge dowel as determined in Step 4.

Part D (the rumbler seat) is to be made a little thinner to enable it to rotate.

Three blue dots show how the two assemblies are clamped together using 55-60mm wood screws. The position of the fourth wood screw is obscured by the drill.

With the rumbler seat in position, the area shaded red in Step 3 may now be sanded smooth and rounded over.

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Step 11

Showing the mudguards in place, with the wheels used to mark the holes for the axles. Note the importance of accuracy here will affect the appearance of the wheels in the wheel arch.

The mudguards are glued in place.

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Step 12

The final step is to make and attach the radiator. The photo shows optional radiator shapes.

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Final

Big Heart Bear and his Mum off to the Teddy Bears Picnic in their brand new roadster.

Spare wheel is an optional extra.

The toy may be left untreated, treated with Danish Oil, or food colouring is quite effective.

Finishing



Conclusion


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Wooden Toy Motorcycle Plans List1. Full Size Templates Toy Motorcycle

2. Full Size Templates Toy Quadbike

3. Isometric View Quadbike

4. Exploded View Quadbike

5. Full Size Template Toy Motorecycle Mk2



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Building Guide Wooden Toy Motorcycle

Here is a wooden toy motorcycle that is easy to make.

Made from 1 inch and ½ inch project timber, which measures 19mm and 12mm thick. The dowels for the axels are 3/8 or 8mm diameter.

The wheels are 2 inches or 50mm diameter.

Follow the link to see how I made my own wheels using a modified circle cutter. Copy and paste the link into your web browser: http://wooden-toy-plans.com/Wooden_Toy_Wheels

Tools

All you need is a scroll saw or a band saw, and an electric drill.

Step By Step Instructions

Each step is on a separate page if you would like to print them.

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http://wooden-toy-plans.com/Wooden_Toy_Wheels

Step 1

The paper templates are cut out and pasted onto the wood. Here I am using 12mm thick maple recycled from a bureau of drawers.

To cut the two sides, I join the pieces with double sided tape. The paper template is glued on with paper glue.

The middle section, shown on top, is made from recycled pallet timber, shown in its raw state. It measures about 23mm thick once it has been cleaned up.

The wheels are made from project timber which is normally 19mm thick, so this gives the wheels enough clearance to spin freely.

Step 2

Cutting out the sides using a scroll saw. The two sides are stacked and held in place with double sided tape.

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Step 3

To make sure the holes are properly aligned, the dowel is holding everything in place to drill the second hole.

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Step 4

Dry fit the parts to make sure the wheels can turn freely. Here I have made a set of plastic washers from a milk bottle using a hollow punch.

Note the pencil outline showing the areas to apply the glue.

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Here’s a useful tip if you like: fluted dowels are best for making joints, but they will probably not belong enough for this application.

To make something similar, I gently but firmly squeeze the dowel with a pair of pliers as shown in the photo. Be careful not to squeeze too much or you will crush the wood fibres and weaken the dowel.

Alternatively you can use a hacksaw blade and scrape along the length of the dowel.

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Here’s another tip – cut a slot in the end of the dowel that is glued into the sides. This will help to relieve the pressure and prevent the wood from splitting. It also provides a small reservoir of glue.

The slot is cut with a hacksaw, I use a junior hacksaw because the blade is thinner.

Two things to bear in mind – cut the slot along the grain, and when inserting the dowel, make sure itis also in the same direction as the grain.

Final Assembly.

Round over the outer edges. I use a half round file and 80 grit sandpaper.

Glue one side first with the dowels for the axles in place. The directions for the glue that I use says to clamp for at least 30 minutes.

With the wheels and the plastic washers in place, the other side can be glued and clamped in place.

Once the glue has set, trim the dowels flush, give it a final sanding and its ready for your favourite varnish or paint.

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Batman Motorcycle Scroll Saw Patterns1. Full Size Scroll Saw Patterns

Handlebars

Building Guide Batman Motorcycle

Here is an easy scroll saw project that is fun to make.

Method of construction

How to make this batman motorbike.

Material:

Two sheets of MDF 3mm thick cut to size 120mm by 200mm. For the centre piece, I was planning to use 12mm thick MDF. Instead I laminated four sheets of 3mm to make up the thickness required.

The photo shows the pattern ready to be cut out. I have drilled the holes for the axles, and a few more holes in strategic places to allow me to make sharp turns with the scroll saw.

The two 3mm thick pieces of MDF are glued in place with a sheet of paper because I want to separate the pieces once the pattern is cut out. I could have use double sided mounting tape instead.

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Showing the pattern cut out. The red is 12mm thick and the blue is 3mm thick.

The shape is cut out, and the two outer sides are removed. The blue shading is the areas to be cut away.

The central core is modified as shown in the photo. I have decided to paint the red trim at this stage.

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Showing the two outer parts are glued in place. Note that it is a good idea to insert the axles while the glue is setting – this will ensure that the parts are aligned.

Making the wheels

The wheels are made by laminating three discs, with the centre disc having a smaller diameter, resulting in a wheel with a groove in the middle. This will allow me to use a rubber o-ring as a tyre.

The wheels are also made in a batch, using the sandwich method. It's a good idea to use a centre punch to drill the holes.

Cut out the holes, cut the circle shape as close to the line as possible without touching it.

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Here I am using a simple jig and a disc sander to sand the wheels round.

Make the two internal discs using the same technique.

Showing the wheels with the red trim painted. Note the groove in the middle. The wheel is ready to be painted.

The batwing handlebars cut out and ready to be painted.

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Final Assembly

Glued up and ready for painting, but batman insisted on a test ride first. Luckily there wasn't too much fuel in the tank, and he didn't get too far.

Make a set of plastic washers using a hollow punch set. Cut the axles to size, and mount the wheels.Glue the handlebars in place.

Conclusion


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Wooden Toy Train Plans List1. Sheet 1 Parts

2. Sheet 2 Parts

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Building Guide Wooden Toy Train Plans

Barbie dolls and wooden toy trains don't normally go together, but I was trying to show the scale of the toy train.

This set of toy train plans is inspired by sketches that I found on the internet. First published in The Woodworker in 1943, it measures 34 inches long, 7 inches wide and about 13 inches high.

The original is big enough for a small child to ride on. After giving the project due consideration, I thought is was just a little too big for my liking, so I decided to make a smaller version.

There are several reasons why I decided to make this project. One of them was the way the boiler was made, cooper style, which is to say the way beer barrels were made, you know, out of wood, in the old days.

If you have access to a lathe, making the boiler should be a lot easier than the way I made mine witha finishing plane. It does require a bit of patience and persistence, but it is worth it in the end.

Making Wooden Toy Wheels

How to make wooden toy wheels Click on the link for step by step instructions.

Cut and paste the following url into your browser:


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Making the boiler.

Step 1

Start by cutting three strips just a tad longer than twice the length of the boiler as shown in the toy train plans. If you have a table saw, I would imagine it is easy enough to cut the three strips at an angle of 60 degrees. I cut the ones in the photo with a hand saw and trimmed to size with a Stanley No. 2 finishing plane.

Step 2

Cut each of the six pieces in half to length. Mark the grain direction with a pencil.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

This is where I used a hot melt glue to make three pairs, but I suggest you make two halves. It would make it much easier to true up the final joints.

Step 4

Drill a shallow hole to accommodate the smokestack. To help with creating a cylinder, I pasted a paper disc on either end.

Note the direction of the grain shown in pencil.

If you have access to a lathe, this step is much easier than the way I did it, with a finishing plane.

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Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

To create a dome effect on the front of the boiler – the photo shows one way to draw a pencil guide line about 4mm from the edge. Draw another line about 8mm from the edge as well.

Step 6

Draw a circle of diameter 30mm on top. Using a sharp chisel, and a slicing action, carve away from the edge towards the centre. Remember to make small, shallow cuts.

Once that is complete, from the top this time, carve away at about 45 degrees towards the second line . You should have a barn roof type of profile, and it is a simple matter to carve away to achieve an elliptical profile.

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Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Showing the final shape after rough sanding using 80 grit sandpaper.

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Step 7

Making The Chassis

Start by measuring and cutting out the base (part A) and two frames (part B.) Note that for the base, the wheel clearance cut-out will be made later.

Measure and drill the holes for the axles for the four sets of smaller wheels. It is a good idea to clamp the two rails together and to use a drill press or a drill guide to ensure the axle holes are vertically aligned.

To make sure the large wheel is the same level as the rest, use the method shown in the photo aboveto mark the position.

Drill the hole for the large wheel. With this wheel in position, mark the wheel clearance, as shown in red. We are going to use these marks to cut the wheel well in the base.

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Photo 1: Mark the position for the large wheel.

Photo 2: Mark the wheel clearance.

Place the rails in position and transfer the marks onto the base board, shown green in the photo.

Mark the width of the cut-out to fit the thickness of the wheel, allowing for enough clearance. It is essential to use a mortise gauge to do this, the reason why will become clear later. Do the same for the other side, which is to say top and bottom.

To make the cut-outs, I used a scroll saw for one side, and a jigsaw for the other in order to prove tomyself that either way would achieve the same result, which indeed it does.

Photo 4 above shows the result of using a scroll saw on one side, and a jigsaw on the other. As you can see, there is no real difference.

Notice the grooves left by the mortice gauge. This will prove useful in the next step.

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Photo 3: Transfer the marks.

Photo 4: Rough cut.

The focus is a bit soft, but what I am trying to show is how to clean up with a sharp chisel. Instead of cutting perpendicular to the grain and banging away with a hammer, use a slicing action as show in the photo above. The right hand provides the force, and the left hand (not shown for clarity) is forcontrol. Make small light shavings with a scything action. Aim to make a shallow inverted V shape instead of trying to cut perpendicular. This will help to prevent tear out.

This is also where the groove made by the mortice gauge prove to be most useful, as you will no doubt discover as you try it for yourself.

Turn the piece around and do the same again, this time working towards making the inverted V shape shallower until it becomes perpendicular.

The corners will prove to be something of a challenge because of the end grain, and it becomes apparent why a sharp chisel is so important. Employ the same technique as before, this time with a bit more care. The idea here is to make sawdust instead of shavings. Aim to cut as little as possible without compressing the grain.

If this is your first time cutting cross grain with a chisel, I would suggest practising on a piece of scrap until you get the idea.

Trying to make joints in pine is not easy because it is so soft and the annular rings by contrast so much harder to cut, but it can be done to a relatively satisfactory degree with a little patience and a fair amount of practice. The idea is to cut as little as possible with tools that are really sharp.

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Photo 5: Clean up with a chisel.

The photo above shows the results of how not to cut a mortice. Note the rather large tear out in the end grain and along the edges. It behoves me to say that I was able to repair it with wood filler in case it happens to you as well.

The photo above Photo 6 shows a small selection of files that could be useful in giving the final finish.

1. Square file about 9mm

2. Half round

3. Flat file about 2.5mm thick

4. Another flat file about 6mm thick

You will not need all of these tools, only one or two, perhaps No. 2 the half round would be the most useful all rounder.

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Photo 5: An example of how not to do it.

Photo 6: A selection of files.

Making The Cab And Tender

Making the cab by temporarily fixing the sides together. You can use double sided tape here. Drill holes in the corners using an 8mm brad point drill bit. The centre points are indicated by the red dots in the photo.

Once the holes are drilled, with a steel ruler and a marking knife, make a shallow groove tangent to each hole, shown by the red lines in the photo above. Cut out the windows with a jigsaw or scroll saw, or even a fret saw.

Using a sharp chisel, place it in the groove formed by the cutting knife, and push down vertically. This is somewhat surprising as to how little force is needed to cut through MDF.

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Photo 6: Making the cab

Photo 7: Cutting the windows

For the cab and the tender, glue one side in place to form an L-shape. Photo 8 shows one way to do this, with a block of wood on one side and a square on the other. In this instance, I am using a type of wood glue that does not need clamping, and it does set quite quickly.

Make the doors using the full size templates. The small knobs are made by rounding over a piece of 8mm dowel on either end and cutting each end about 10mm long. Using an 8mm brad point drill bit, drill a shallow hole into each door to fit the knobs.

The photo shows the inside of the cab pre-painted with the doors held in place with small nails. Note the red lines – this is to indicate a small clearance to prevent the doors jamming when they are rotated open.

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Photo 8: Attach one side

Photo 9: Pre-paint the cab assembly

The frames and the buffers are fixed in place, and the L-shape of the cab and tender are glued in place. Note the small offset from the edge of the base, this is called a shadow line.

The boiler fitted with the saddle in place, the nails for the doors driven home, and the rest of the caband tender are glued in place.

The smokestack is made up of two parts: the stub is a 19mm dowel (same size as a broomstick) and the cap is a 32mm dowel, which happens to be the same size as a wooden curtain rod.

Drill a hole about half of the height of the cap, and glue the assembly in place on to the boiler.

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Photo 10: Fixing the cab and tender

Photo 12: Making the smokestack

Painting and Finishing

The toy is complete and ready for painting in colours of your choice. It's best to remove the wheels and glue them in place once the paint has dried.

Make a set of plastic plastic washers using a hollow punch to stop the wheels rubbing on the sides.

Conclusion

I hope you have fun making this wooden toy train.

Visit the woodworkers gallery page to share photos of your project.

If you have any questions please use this contact me form.

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Photo 13: Ready for painting

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Toy Tipper Truck Plans List1. Toy Tipper Truck Isometric View

2. Toy Tipper Truck Cab Side Pattern Sheet 1



5. Toy Tipper Truck Parts Sheet 1

6. Toy Tipper Truck Parts Sheet 2

7. Toy Tipper Truck Cutting List Sheet 1

8. Toy Tipper Truck Cutting List Sheet 2

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Building Guide Toy Tipper Truck

The idea of using a winch mechanism was inspired by a set of vintage plans that I discovered on theinternet.

Thinking about it, came up with the idea of using a scissors type of lifting mechanism because the attachment point of the rope would only lift the tipper so far and no further.

So I whipped up a proof of concept model to see how it would work, and it did.

Tools.

This is a list of the tools that I used to make this toy truck project.

• Jig saw for rough cut.

• Scroll saw for final cut.

• Electric drill or drill press.

• Linisher or 12 inch disc sander.

• Hand saw.

• No. 2 smoothing plane.

The only tools you really need is something to cut curves and something to drill holes. I used a scroll saw to cut out the cab parts, and a hand saw for the rest. The smoothing plane was used to finish off the cut edges.

To make the wheels, I cut out the rough shape and sanded it round on the disc sander using a very simple jig.

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Illustration 1: Second prototype Toy Tipper Truck

Materials.

I always buy just a little more than I need for any project, that way I can make more toys out of the leftover bits.

To make this prototype, I used a sheet of 9mm thick MDF aka Custom Wood or Supawood.

Because of the size of the toy, it may well spend a bit of time outdoors, in which chase you may want to use plywood sealed with good quality paint.

For the chassis, use 19mm x 400mm stock about 1.2m long.

To make the wheels, I used 19mm x 140mm stock, also about 1.2m long.

To make the winch and the axles, a piece of dowel about 22mm in diameter, or a broomstick handle.

The scissor jack lifting mechanism is made from 12mm x 30mm stock, best to use maple here or any other straight grained timber.

A length of 6mm or 8mm dowel.

A collection of toothpicks – why you need them will become clear later.

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Step by Step instructions.

Step 1.

Cut out all the parts as shown in the cutting diagram.

To make the cab I used a jig saw to rough cut, held them together with double sided tape and made the final cut with a scroll saw.

Because I was using a hand saw, I needed to finish the edges with a smoothing plane.

Tip: name the parts as you cut them out.

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Step 2.

Start by making the cab and the tipper.

Using rapid setting wood glue, I simply support the vertical with a piece of wood behind and a carpenters square in the front.

Once the glue as set, I simply glue the sides.

This is where the toothpicks come in useful. Cut in half, they become miniature dowels to nail the sides in place while the glue sets.

With the sides in place, I mark and drill a series of holes for the toothpicks about three along each length.

For the drill bit, I use a finishing nail which is about the same size as the toothpick.

Simply inject a bit of glue into the hole and lightly tap the mini dowels. This has the advantage of holding the pieces in place so that I can glue both sides at once.

Sometimes the dowels mushroom over when tapping in place, this can be trimmed off when the glue sets.

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Showing the floor and the front of the tipper.

Step 3.

Making the cab.

Illustration showing a cut away view of the inside of the cab. The red block is the seat support fixedin place to help with the construction of the seat.

Glue the fender supports in place, making sure you end up with a left and right hand side.

The photo above shows the cab sub assembly. If you look very carefully, you may see the toothpick dowels along the edges, these will be trimmed off once the glue has set.

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Showing the cab assembly.

Cut away view of the inside of the cab assembly.

Step 4.

Making the rear axle support.

The rear axle support is an open ended box lined with plastic bearings.

The photo shows the two L-shapes with the blue plastic bearings in place.

Simply place the axle down in position and glue the two halves together.

Once the glue has set, trim to size.

Step 5.

Making the chassis.

Cut the chassis to size, mark and drill the holes for the hinge dowel and the lifting mechanism. Shape the rear end round as shown in the plans.

Mark the position of the rear axle and cut the slot to suit the rear axle support.

Tip: hold the chassis parts together with double sided tape.

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Rear axle support.

Step 6.

Making the scissor action lifting mechanism.

Illustration showing the lifting mechanism in the resting position.

Cab and left hand side of the chassis not shown for clarity.

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Illustration showing the inner part of the lifting mechanism attached to the tipper tray. Cab, chassisand outer part of lifting mechanism not shown for clarity.

Illustration showing the outer part of the lifting mechanism attached to the chassis.

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Inner lifting mechanism, tipper tray, axle support and left hand side of the chassis is not shown forclarity.

I think it may be helpful to understand the workings of the lifting mechanism before you start making it.

I have tried to explain the workings with illustrations.

This is where a drill press would come in handy because the smooth action of the lifting mechanismdepends very much on precision drilled holes.

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Step 7.

Test fit the component parts.

Clamping the chassis in place and test fit the tipper tray.

What I did was to drill two sets of two holes in the cab for wood screws to hold the chassis in place to test and adjust the workings of the lifting mechanism.

Once you are happy that everything works, you can glue the cab in place, and once the glue has set, replace the wood screws with dowel plugs.

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Test fit the component parts.

Step 8.

Fit the tipping tray and hinge.

Make the hinge blocks, and thread them through the chassis parts. Place the tipper tray such that there is enough clearance from the back of the cab.

The idea here is to hold the hinge blocks in place and drill a set of pilot holes for the wood screws.

I find that using double sided tape to hold the hinge blocks in position works well.

Here I have used a bit of scrap wood across the hinge blocks to clamp them down. It becomes a simple matter of turning it around and drilling the pilot holes from the other side.

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Step 9.

Fitting the lifting mechanism.

Fit the hinge block assembly to the chassis with the dowel pins.

This time, to drill the pilot holes, I have to go through the hinge block itself.

Now the tipper tray and the lifting mechanism are all in position.

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Step 10.

Fit the winch and the friction brake.

In the photo, the cab has been removed to show the friction brake on the winch.

It is made up of two pieces of wood secured to the chassis on one end alternative to the top and bottom of the chassis and bound with elastic bands.

This setup provides just enough friction to stop the winch unravelling and the tipper tray falling onto small fingers.

Showing the underside of the truck.

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Step 11.

Final touches is to fit the wheels and hubcaps.

Showing the hubcaps fixed in place.

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Making Large Diameter WheelsA simple woodworking jig to make large diameter wooden toy wheels.

The way I normally make wheels for toys is to use a circle cutter – I am happy to do this for wheels up to about 70mm in diameter. Anything bigger makes me feel uncomfortable.

This is how I make large wheels using a disc sander and a very simple but effective jig. When I say large wheels, I mean the size of wheels that cannot be made using the fly cutter, which is another method for making wooden toy wheels.

In the image above, the green represents the jig, very similar to a bench hook. The blue disc is the wheel, and the red dot in the middle is the axle.

Showing the underside of the jig, with two dowel pins fixed in place. These pins rest on the edge of the disc sander table.

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Once again the top of the jig, this time without the wheel to show the dowel pin. Measure the radiusfrom the face of the disc to drill the hole. I use the same jig with holes at different positions for wheels of different sizes.

Note that the dowel is a press fit, not glued in place. To do this, I cut a slot in the dowel to make it easier to insert and remove without being too loose.

Woodworking Tip: Note that it is good practice to cut the slot in the dowel along the grain and not across it.

Making the wheel.

Start by marking out the size that I want using a pair of compasses. Sometimes I paste a paper template onto the work-piece.

Drill the hole for the axle.

Using a scroll saw, a band saw or even a jigsaw, I cut out the disc as close to the line as possible trying not to touch it.

Place the rough cut disc on the dowel, it should be able to rotate freely without too much slack.

Start the disc sander, and place the jig on the table with the underside dowel diagonally across from the wheel touching the edge of the table.

This allows me to pivot the jig by applying gentle pressure against the sanding disc and rotating the wheel at the same time. Too much pressure and you burn the wheel.

Slow and gentle is best until you have turned a complete circle, sliding the jig back and forth as youwould with any other work-piece.

Viola! You now have a perfectly round large diameter wooden wheel. Not only that, you can make as many as you want and they will all be exactly the same size.

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Finishing

There are many ways to apply a finish to a wooden toy. If this toy truck is going to spend time outdoors, you may want to seek the advice of your local paint store.

Conclusion


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Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Plans List1. Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Sheet 1

2. Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Sheet 2



Building Guide Wooden Toy Truck PatternsStep by step instructions to make a lever action toy tipper tuck.

Searching the Net for toy truck plans, I found this vintage plan for a lever action toy dump truck.

Had a bit of scrap wood lying around, decided to use that for this project.

The photo above shows a few embellishments, including the mudguards over the front wheels and the headlights.

Started by cutting up the paper plan to trace a rough outline of the profile. Maybe this was not such a good idea, should have used carbon paper instead.

If you don't have carbon tracing paper, a neat trick is to rub a soft pencil on the back of the plan, then trace the outline directly onto the workpiece.

Mark the position of the wheels and the lever arm, as well as the center of the radius that forms the cab.

To hold the two sides for cutting and trimming, I glued them together with a sheet of paper in between. This is a trick our wood-turning cousins use quite often.

Using something called sticky dots is also a good idea, or double sided sticky tape of the type used in photography.

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Tools

This toy can be made with common tools. Personal safety is always the first consideration when dealing with such small pieces of timber.

Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project. Clicking on the link will takeyou to eBay where you can do research on what is available and compare prices.

• Power drill.

• Jigsaw or bandsaw or scroll saw.

• Tenon saw, also known as a back saw.

• Combination square.

• Woodworking quick grip clamps.

• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels

• Wood file to round over all the edges.

• Sanding block with 120 and 80 grit sandpaper.

• 22mm [7/8”] dia. Spade bit or Forstner bit.

• A selection of drill bits.

Making Wooden Toy Wheels.

For this toy dump truck, I made my own wheels, or you can used store bought wheels up to 60mm in diameter.




A picture is worth a thousand words, but it sure does use up a lot of ink. In order to save the planet, and a bit of money, I decided to include each illustration at the end of the document on a separate page. That way you can use the link to have a look at the illustration to make sense of the instructions and choose to print it or not.

It's always a good idea to read through the instructions and study the plans first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience will no doubt supersede these suggestions.

The parts are assembled in a manner that should allow time for the glue to set between each step. Having said that, I have also used hot melt glue for certain steps because it is so much faster.

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Step 1

Click on the link to view the illustration for Step 1.

In this step, I cut out the shape of the body and used this paper template to mark out two shapes as shown in the cutting diagram.

Using double sided sticky tape or removable sticky dots to hold the two work-pieces together and the paper template on top of that, I carefully cut out the body shape with a jigsaw. It is a good idea to mark the position of all the wheels and the hinge point of the lever arm before removing the paper template.

Drill the holes for the wheels, but not the lever arm at this stage.

Smooth the edges cut by the jigsaw, and you are ready for the next step.

Step 2


Glue the top of the bonnet (part C) to the right hand side of the truck body (Part A1), making sure it is perpendicular.

Because I did not want to wait too long for the glue to set, I used hot melt glue as an experiment, and I was quite amazed at the strength of the joint. More about hot melt glue here.

Step 3


Trim Part B to fit then glue in place. Glue Part D in place.

Step 4

Click on the link to view the illustration for Step 4 .

Glue the left hand side (Part A2) in place, and the roof (Part F.)

Step 5


Make Part E, the hinge for the tipper tray. Hold it in place and mark the size to cut, allowing a millimeter or so for clearance.

Step 6


The floor of the tipper tray held in place and two pilot holes drilled into part E for a pair of woodscrews. Test the movement of the tipper and trim as required.

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Step 7

Click on the link to view the illustration for Step 7 .

This is where we determine the position of Part G, which essentially also limits how far the tipper tray moves. With Part G in place, drill pilot holes on both sides. Remove the tipper tray and glue Part G in place using wood screws as clamps. Once the glue has set, you can trim it to size. You may also want to remove the screws and replace them with dowels.

Step 8


Making the tipper tray. Glue the two sides in place, and the front.

When the glue has set, glue the tipper tray assembly to the hinge.

The lever arm (shown red in the photo) is held in place with a wood screw. Mark the position of the lever arm on the underside of the tipper tray.

Step 9


Drill a shallow hole in this position to enable the lever arm to rest in this position.

Step 10

All of the component parts are ready, all that remains is the final assembly, sanding the edges round and painting to colours of your choice.

Finishing



Conclusion


About hot melt glue

The advantage of hot melt glue is the speed at which it sets, which is in a way also a disadvantage, because there is no room for error. You have to match up the two pieces really quickly before the glue cools and a proper bond is not formed.

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Step 1

Back to Step 1 Text

Step 2

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Step 2

Step 1 Template attached to work-piece

Step 3

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Step 4

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Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

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Step 6

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Step 6

Step 7

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Step 8

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Step 8

Step 9

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Step 10

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Step 10

Free Toy Dump Truck Plans List1. Body Parts Sheet 1

2. Tipper Parts Sheet 2

3. Cutting Diagram Sheet 3

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Cab

Tipper

Chassis

Wheel

Wheel




Building Guide Free Toy Dump Truck Plans Step by step instructions to make a mid size toy tipper tuck.

This simple toy is made up of 19mm (3/4”) pine. The tipper, shown blue, is made from anything you can find, from 6mm to 9mm plywood, MDF or 12mm thick pine.

Wooden Toy Wheels

The wheels shown red, are 50mm in diameter are also 19mm pine. Click here for instructions to make your own wooden toy wheels.



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http://www.wooden-toy-plans.com/wooden_toy_wheels.html

Tools

This toy can be made with a limited number of power tools. Personal safety is always the first consideration when dealing with such small pieces of timber.

Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project.

• Power drill.

• Jigsaw or bandsaw.



• Woodworking clamps.

• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels.Wood file to round over all the edges.



• A selection of drill bits.


It's always a good idea to study the plans first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience will no doubt supersede these suggestions.

The parts are assembled in a manner that should allow time for the glue to set between each step.

These guidelines may seem to be rather complicated, and the reason is that it would probably be easier to explain in person, or by video. The real complication is in trying to convey the message, rather than the procedure itself.

Step 1

Cut out the parts that make up the tipper, shown as Part D Assembly in the drawings. This part can be made from any material you may have available, from 6mm MDF or plywood to 12mm pine boards.

The floor and front of the tipper is glued up first, to form an L-shape as shown in the diagram below. Put it to one side to allow the glue to set.

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http://astore.amazon.com/jigsaw06-20

Step 2

While the glue is setting, cut out the parts from 19mm (3/4”) stock as shown in the cutting diagram below.

Step 3

Laminate the parts that make up the cab and the hinge. Set them to one side to set.

Step 4

Clamping the two pieces that make up the chassis together and drill the 6mm diam holes as shown in the drawings. Use a drill press or a drill guide to ensure the holes are perpendicular.

Step 5

Making a template for the hinge pin. The tipper rotates around the rear end of the chassis, and the hinge block fits snugly against the rear axle. We want a fair amount of clearance here, so accuracy in make and fitting this part is quite important.

Using a piece of card as shown in the photo, mark out the holes using a centre punch or a thin pencil.

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Step 6

Using a compass, mark out a circle that will give clearance to the axle dowel.

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Step 7

Photo with the green line showing the outline of the hinge pin, and the red line showing the outline of the chassis.

Note how the hinge pin protrudes above the chassis. This is to allow the tipper enough room to sit flush on the chassis.

Step 8

Mark the holes for the hinge pin using a center punch.

Again, note how the hinge pin sits proud of the chassis.

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Step 9

Drill the 6mm diam. Hole (shown green) for the hinge pin, and a larger 8mm diam. hole shown red in the photo below.

Please note the position of this hole will determine the clearance of the rear axle when the tipper is resting along the chassis.

The round shape will allow the tipper to rotate, so is is important to get this just right.

Cut out the hinge pin using the paper template made earlier.

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Step 10

Back to the tipper, if the glue has set enough to be handled.

To complete the tipper part, the two sides are fixed in place as shown in the diagram below. Note position shaded allows for a shadow line along these edges.

Step 11

Finish the cab by sanding the end grain surfaces smooth. Drill the hole to represent the windows with a 22mm spade bit or Forstner bit.

Cut the two axle dowels to length, plus a fraction extra for a pair of plastic washers made from a plastic milk carton.

Mark the position of the chassis shown red in the drawing.

Glue the chassis parts to this line and using the axle dowels to hold the parts in position.

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Step 12

The diagram below shows the hinge pin in position. Sand the hinge pin to make it slightly thinner so that it will rotate freely. Make sure the hinge clears the rear axle.

Note the red line in the diagram showing the hinge pin sitting just above the chassis. This is to allowclearance for the tipper to rest along the back of the chassis.

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Step 13

Time to attach the tipper to the hinge. With the hinge in position, place the tipper along the chassis with about 1mm clearance from the back of the cab.

Drill two holes to fit two screws as shown in the diagram below.

It is good practice in woodworking and carpentry to stagger the screws so that they do not follow the same grain. Do this in order to minimize the risk of splitting the wood.

These screws are used to clamp the tipper in position until the glue sets. You may prefer to remove the screws and replace them with a pair of dowels before finishing.

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Test the action of the tipper and adjust accordingly before gluing the tipper in place.

Step 14

All that remains is to drill out the holes in the chassis for the axles with a 6.5 mm drill bit to allow the wheels to spin freely. Apply a dab of glue on each end of the axle to hold the wheels in place.

Round over all the edges with a wood file, give everything a final sanding with a finer grade of sandpaper, and the toy is ready for finishing.

Making Wooden Toy Wheels.

For this toy dump truck, I made my own wheels, or you can used store bought wheels up to 50mm in diameter.



Finishing



Conclusion


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http://wooden-toy-plans.com/Wooden_Toy_Wheels

Building Guide Wooden Truck Plans List1. Patterns Sheet 1

2. Patterns Sheet 2

3. Cutting List

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Building Guide Wooden TruckStep by step instructions to make a mini toy tipper tuck.

Measures about100mm wide by 230mm long and 115mm high.

This toy dump truck is made up of two 19mm thick pieces with one 12mm piece in the middle. In the diagram below, the pieces shown green are 19mm or ¾ inch thick and the yellow represents

12mm or ½ inch thick pieces. The wheels are shown red.

Tools

This toy can be made with a limited number of power tools. Safety is always the first consideration when dealing with such small pieces of timber.

Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project.

• Power drill corded or battery powered.

• Bandsaw.



• Woodworking clamps.

• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels

• Wood file to round over all the edges.


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• 6mm and 6.5mm drill bits.

Step 1

It's always a good idea to study the plans first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience

will no doubt supersede these suggestions.

Cut out the body parts and glue them together. Put it to one side to allow the glue to set. These parts

may be slightly oversize to allow for truing up after the glue has set. The holes for the axles and

tipper hinge are also drilled afterwards in step 4.

The diagram below shows the dowel (shown red) being used to keep the parts aligned under

clamping pressure.

Step 2

Cut out the parts that make up the tipper. Note the floor and front should be about 2mm wider than

the width of the body, as noted on the cutting diagram.

The floor and front of the tipper is made up first, to form an L-shape as shown in the diagram.

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Step 3

The holes for the hinge are drilled for a snug fit. When the glue has set, glue each side of the tipper as shown below.

A note about this step that may not be obvious: the floor of the tipper is stopped short to allow for 180º rotation.

Step 4

Once the glue has set, it's time to finish off the truck body, if you have laminated it.

Drill the holes that represent the windows of the truck with a spade bit or a forstner bit. Round over

all the edges. For the professional look, use a 3mm (1/8”) roundover bit in a router mounted in a

suitable router table.

Place the tipper assembly into position on the truck body and test the movement, then mark the hole

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for the hinge point. As mentioned before, the floor of the tipper assembly stops short to allow for a

180º rotation.

Drill the holes for the axles and the hinge point with a drill bit that is one size larger for a relaxed

fit, a term I believe is used in the description of certain types of garment.

Fit the wheels, and the tipper assembly with a touch of glue to hold the dowels in place, and you're

good to go.

The toy may be painted with food coloring or left natural as shown in the photographs on the first

page.

Conclusion

I certainly hope you have enjoyed making this project.

Use this contact me form if you would like to submit your project to the photo gallery.

Table of Contents

https://wooden-toy-plans.com/gallery


Wooden Toy Truck Plans List1. Mini Truck Full Size Pattern Type 1

2. Mini Truck Full Size Pattern Type 2

Table of Contents


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Wooden Toy Road Grader Plans List1. Isometric View

2. Exploded View

3. Side View

4. Parts Sheet 1

5. Parts Sheet 2

Large Road Grader

1. Isometric View

2. Exploded View

3. Side View

4. Parts

Table of Contents






Building Guide Wooden Toy Road Grader

This toy grader is a fun project for all ages to make. It can be made with hand tools if you are going to purchase a set of wooden wheels.

List of materials.

This toy can be made from leftover bits in your scrap box.

This is what I used to make this one.

19 x 500 x 140 clear pine for the wheels and body

9 x 60 x 200 skirting board for the blade.

6mm dowel for the axles.

Tools you may need.

I used a bandsaw, but only because I have one. Most of the cutting can be be done with a hand saw. Anybody who has experience with a table saw will know that the parts are too small to use one safely.

I also have a 12” disc sander, and I find this indispensable for trimming end grain. Of course, a block of sandpaper or a wood file could also be used.

If you are going to make your own wheels, a drill press is an essential item when using a circle cutter.

Most if not all hobby woodworkers and handymen (or handywomen) will have a selection of tools to complete this simple project.

Table of Contents


1. The first step is to read through the instructions and study the plans and photos.

2. Using a soft pencil and a ruler, mark out the component parts as shown in the drawing.

3. Cut out the parts using an electric jigsaw, a tenon saw or a scroll saw.

4. Parts A to D are trimmed back to their proper sizes. A twelve inch disc sander is useful for trimming small pieces.

5. Glue the pieces that make up part F and put to one side to set.

6. Clamp parts B together and drill the holes for the axles. At this stage, the holes are drilled for a snug fit. Do this in order to make sure things stay lined up when the parts are glued and clamped together.

7. Dry clamp parts A and B together, keeping the two parts B aligned with the axle dowels. Mark the pieces so that it will be re-assembled in the correct order. It is shown in red in the photo only to highlight the idea, so don't actually mark it in red. Apply the glue and put it to one side to set.

It is important that the axle dowels are left in place until the glue sets to minimise creep under clamping pressure. Once the glue has set, re-drill the holes to allow the axles to spin freely.

8. The blade of the grader, part C, is made from a piece of skirting board cut to a width of 30mm. It may also be made from a piece of timber that is 9mm thick, just chamfer one edge to the profile shown in the drawing.

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Step 7

9. Cut and trim part D to size, and drill the axle holeusing a drill press or drill guide. Use the 6.5mm drill bit to allow the axle to spin freely.

10. Drill the holes for the roof of the cab by placing iton the body as shown in the photo.

11. The photo shows how to fix the dowels on place by measuring the height the dowels are set so that they sit slightly above the roof. This is an idea borrowed from the Craftsman furniture movement.

12. Trim part F to size and fix in place.

13. Final assembly. Glue all the parts together, apply the wood screw to the front wheel assembly, allowing it to swivel. Round off the sharp edges and you are ready to put the grader to some serious earth moving work.

Table of Contents

Step 10

Step 11

Finishing



Conclusion


Table of Contents




Toy Steam Roller Plans List1. Mk1 Isometric View

2. Mk1 Exploded View

3. Mk1 Side View

4. Mk1 Parts

5. Mk2 Isometric View

6. Mk2 Exploded View

7. Mk2 PartsMk2

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Table of Contents

Building Guide Toy Steam Roller

Introduction

An essential part of road construction, the steam roller gets its name from the original machine that was actually powered by steam. The modern version looks quite different, and indeed it has a different name, but it has nothing of the romance of steam, at least as far as making toys is concerned.

Somehow the very shape of the steam roller describes it's function: this is a machine that means business, and it will serve you best that you keep out of the way.

Complementing the road grader, this toy steam roller is very simple to make.

List of materials.

This toy can be made from leftover bits in your scrap box.

Tools you may need.

I used a bandsaw, but only because I have one. Most of the cutting can be be done with a hand saw. Anybody who has experience with a table saw will know that the parts are too small to use one safely.

I also have a 12” disc sander, and I find this indispensable for trimming end grain. Of course, a block of sandpaper or a wood file could also be used.

If you are going to make your own wheels, a drill press is an essential item when using a circle cutter.

Table of Contents

Most if not all hobby woodworkers and handymen (or handywomen) will have a selection of tools to complete this simple project.

Table of Contents


Preparation

The first step is to read through the instructions and study the plans and photos.

Using a soft pencil and a ruler, mark out the component parts as shown in the drawing.

Cut out the parts using an electric jigsaw, a tenon saw or a scroll saw.

Step 1

Mark and drill the holes for the axles in pairs. Glue the two sides using the dowel axle to keep the parts aligned.

Step 2

While the glue is setting, make the wheels.

Step 3

Table of Contents

Step 1

Step 3

Mark the holes for the roof, place the roof in position and drill the holes.

Step 4

Glue one side arm in first, using one of the rear wheels to ensure there is enough clearance.

Step 5

Glue the other side arm, using the axle to keep the alignment. The wheels are included to ensure clearance.

Table of Contents

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

The roof is fixed in place, and the toy is ready to paint in colours of your choice.

Finishing



Conclusion


Table of Contents

Step 6




Wooden Toy Airplane Plans List1. Parts Sheet 1

2. Parts Sheet 2

3. Parts Sheet 3

4. Parts Sheet 4

5. Parts Sheet 5

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Buiding Guide Wooden Toy Airplane

What tools do I need?

This toy can easily be made with the kind of tools the average home handyman already has:

1. Power drill corded or battery powered.

2. Drill bits – 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm and 2.5mm.

3. A jigsaw or a bandsaw or even a coping saw.

4. A few woodworking clamps – can you ever have too many?

5. A wood file and some sandpaper, 80 grit and 100 grit.

6. A sharp knife for carving the propeller.

7. A pair of compasses or something with a round shape for drawing the wing tips.

8. The usual toolkit also includes things like a hammer and screwdriver.

Table of Contents

Optional tools.

This is a list of tools that may be considered to be optional. They are not essential for completing the project, but they do make certain tasks much easier which adds to the enjoyment of woodworking.

1. Linisher/sander or a 12” disc sander.

2. Drum sanders of various diameters.

3. Router with 6mm and 4mm round over bits.

4. Drill press or at least a drill guide.

Of course, you will need a ruler and a pencil, and personally I find a combination square very usefulfor marking out and measuring.

You can make your own wooden wheels or buy them ready made.

How much wood do I need?

There is not a lot of wood in this toy, and you probably have a few pieces left over from another project. This is what you will need:

1. 19mm thick pine 50mm wide x 275mm long for the fuselage and nose, or add an extra 100mm for a total of 375mm long if you are going to make your own wheels.

2. 12mm thick pine or meranti 90mm wide x 850mm long for the wings, tailplande and rudder.

3. 8mm dowel 600mm long for the wing struts and the axle.

4. Four 8g woodscrews 30mm long and one 8g woodscrew 50mm long.

Step by step instructions for making the wooden toy airplane.

You may want to make more than one toy airplane, so it would be a good idea to make templates of the fuselage, tailplane and rudder.

1. Trace the outline of the fuselage and the nose onto a piece of 19mm (3/4 ") pine and cut out the shapes using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

2. Position the nose on the fuselage and drill a 2.5mm pilot hole for the propellor in the centre of the nose.

3. The next step is to glue the nose to the fuselage using the 30mm long woodscrew. Set it to one side for the glue to set.

4. Trace the outline of the rudder and tailplane onto a piece of 12mm pine or meranti, and cut out the shapes using a jigsaw or bandsaw.


5. Using a scrap piece the same thickness as the rudder, mark out a notch on the tailplane.

6. Use the fuselage to measure the depth of the notch for the rudder. Cut out the notch carefullyfor a snug fit.

Table of Contents

7. Mark out the wings to the dimensions shown on the plan. Using the combination square, mark out the position of the struts on the top wing only. Using a pair of compasses as shown in the photo, I made my wingtips round, but you can make them any shape you want to. I used a 12” disc sander to clean up the edges, but it can be done with a wood file instead.

8. There is a trick to drilling the holes for the wing struts. On a real biplane, the top wing sits slightly forward relative to the bottom wing. It is import that the wing struts line up, so be sure to clamp the two wings together and drill the holes for the 8mm dowels accurately with a drill press. Mark both wings “left” and “right” so that when it comes to final assembly everything lines up the way it should. Do not drill the hole in the centre of the top wing yet, leave this until step 16.

9. Make a pair of landing gear struts. Clamp them together and drill a hole for the axle with the8.5mm drill bit. This is where the drill press is useful.

10. Round off the edges of the wings and the tailplane parts, and the landing gear struts except the area where they are glued to the wings. Again, a router is useful for this step, but you may not be comfortable with such small pieces. Use a wood file and sandpaper instead. Notethat if you are going to be using a router, I found the 6mm roundover bit removed too much material, so I used a 4mm round over bit instead.

Table of Contents

11. Glue the rudder to the tailplane as shown in the photo, making sure that everything is perpendicular.

12. Mark out the position of the landing gear struts and attach them to the wings using the 8x30 woodscrews. Note how the axle keeps the struts aligned. Once the glue has set, you may want to remove the screws and plug the holes with 8mm dowel.

Table of Contents

13. By now, the glue should have set on the fuselage, so remove the woodscrew and round off all the edges except for where the bottom wing and the tailplane is seated. Use a router or a wood file and 80 grit sandpaper.

14. Glue the bottom wing to the fuselage, making sure everything is perpendicular. Leave it to set.

15. Make the propellor from a piece of 19mm pine, 100mm by 30mm. It is easier to drill the 4.5mm hole for the wood screw before carving it.

Table of Contents

16. Glue the tailplane assembly to the fuselage, again ensuring that everything is perpendicular. It is easier to use a woodscrew to clamp the tailplane assembly in place. Once the glue has set, the woodscrew my be replaced with a dowel to form a tailskid.

17. Cut 4 pieces of dowel 90mm long for the wing struts.

18. The time has come, (the walrus said) to drill the hole in the top wing. Using the dowel struts,line up the top wing left and right as marked earlier, and carefully drill the hole for the 8mm dowel through the top wing into the fuselage. Now the top wing may be glued in place.

Table of Contents

19. All that remains is to attach the propeller and the wheels and you are ready to zoom around the room!

Finishing



Conclusion


Table of Contents




Bonus Wooden Toy Train plans

Table of Contents

Let’s start with the Jeep

1Cut the frame (A) to the listed length [Materials List] but 25⁄16" wide. Rip a 3⁄16"

strip from one edge, and from it crosscut two 2"-long pieces. Attach and trim those pieces [Drawing 1a, Photo A.] Then cut the back seat (B) to size and set aside [Drawing 1].

2From a 11⁄2×3×12" cherry blank, saw a 1⁄2"-long piece from one end for the cowl

(C). Cut and sand the 27° miters [Drawing 1b].

Then cut a 11⁄2×11⁄2×12" scrap and miter one end at 27°. Double-face-tape the cowl to the end of the scrap and rout the corners [Photo B].

This nimble vehicle and light artillery piece performed with distinction in rugged terrain from WWII through Vietnam. They were cheap and quick-to-build back then, and these models retain those traits: you can build them from scrapwood in a weekend!

WOOD magazine July 201748

Note:To build this project, prepare 12"-long blanks in the following sizes:1⁄8×3 1⁄4" maple, 3⁄16×1" maple, 1⁄4×3 1⁄4" maple, 1⁄4×3 1⁄4" cherry, 3⁄8×1" maple, 3⁄8×1" cherry, 1⁄2×1" cherry, 1×2 1⁄2" maple, 1 1⁄2×3" cherry.

Mil-spec

Glue the crosscut edge pieces back onto the frame (A), aligning them as shown. After the

glue dries, trim them flush with the end of the frame.

A

A

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L 647,925Number of

Jeeps manufactured

for WWII

7'7"Length of actual

gun barrel

7/32" hole¾" deep

5/16"

A

B

C

D

J

¼"

¼"

23/8"

¼"

I

1½" wooden wheel

¼" washer 7/32" axle peg 11/8" long

¼"round-over

7/8"

G

¾"

3/8"7/32" hole

H

G

¼"

1½"

11/8"

21/8"

23/8"

1¾"

1"

3"

3"

¼" round-overs

E

F

¼" hole 3/8" deep(drill after assembly)

woodmagazine.com 49

37mm Gun

3/16"

23/8"

1¾"

6¼"A

COWL FRONT VIEW

COWL TOP VIEW

27°

½"

¼" ¼" round-overs

3"

1½" C

C

FRAME1a

COWL1b

CHASSISEXPLODED VIEW

1

7/32" axle peg11/8" long,cut to 1"

1½" wooden wheel

5/8" eye screw

1/16" round-over

¼" round-over

3/32" hole3/8" deep

7/32" hole¾" deep

N

E

L

N

M

M

K

F

O


Tip! For round-overs

smaller than 1⁄4", simply

sand them. On small

parts, such as the fuel

can (K), seats (N), and

windshield (O),

hand-sanded round-overs

look just fine.

3Retrieve the 1 1⁄2" cherry blank and rip it to 21⁄2" wide. Attach a copy of the Hood Full-

size Pattern [page 53] to the end of the blank. With the blank on end, cut the kerfs for the hood (D). Cut the fender wells [Photo C], saw the hood to length, rout the top edges, and drill the headlights using a Forstner bit.

4Glue, align, and clamp the cowl (C) and hood (D). Then glue and clamp the C/D

assembly to the frame (A) [Photo D].

5Cut to size the floorboard (E), and dash-board (F) [Drawing 1]. Glue the dashboard

to the cowl (C) flush side to side. Glue in the floorboard tight against the dashboard and centered side to side. Glue in the back seat (B) as shown in Drawing 1.

6Cut the rear quarterpanels (G), and end gate (H). Double-face-tape the panels

face-to-face, attach a copy of the Rear Quarter-

panel Full-size Pattern, and cut and sand to shape. Attach the panels and end gate to the chassis [Drawing 1] with the bottom edges of the panels flush with the bottom of the floorboard (E) and the top of the end gate flush with the top panel edges. Round over the ends of the panels.

104º 1¼"

1¼"

¼"

R=3/16"

N

Two cuts create the fender wells. Make the first cut with the blade at 90°; for the second

cut, angle the blade to 45°.

C

CHASSIS2

Rout 1⁄4” round-overs on the top edges of the cowl (C), aligning the mitered edge of the

cowl flush with the edge of the scrap.

B

C

Scrap

Tip! Save tedious

sanding in tight spots

by finish-sanding each

part as you make it,

prior to attaching it to

other parts.

SEAT2a

woodmagazine.com 51

Drill the wheel-axle-peg holes 3⁄4" deep—the extra depth

allows you to fine-tune the depth of the axle pegs later for

wheels that spin freely, but without slop.

ECut the fenders to length using a bandsaw or scrollsaw.

Go easy to avoid breaking the end-to-end glue joint.

F

¼" dowel 3" long

5/8"

7/8"

Stand

¼" hole ¼" deepon bottom face,

½" from front

Q

P

5/8"

3/8"

¾"

1/8" dowel 2½" long

Barrel

1/8" hole 3/8" deep,centered

R

Attach the cowl/hood (C/D) to the frame (A), aligning the

hood flush with the edges of the frame and set back 1⁄4” from the front end.

D

7In the floorboard (E) mark and drill the centered gun-turret hole [Drawing 1].

8Cut the front wheel spacers (I) to size and glue them to the chassis [Drawing 1]. Mark

and drill holes for the axle pegs [Photo E]. Also drill a 7⁄32" axle-peg hole 3⁄4" deep through the end gate (H).

A few more partscomplete the Jeep

1Cut the bumper (J) to size, and glue it to the front of the frame (A), centered side

to side. Then, cut the fuel can (K) [Full-size

Pattern] and glue it to the end gate (H), posi-tioned as shown in Drawing 2.

2From your 1⁄8" maple blank, cut two 1⁄2×3" strips. Tilt your tablesaw blade to 24.5°,

crosscut each strip at its center, and crosscut the offcut to make matching bevels [Fender

Full-size Patterns]. Glue each pair back together at the beveled ends to form the fenders (L). Make a copy of the Driver-Side and Passenger-

Side Fender Full-size Patterns and adhere those to the tops of the fenders. Cut the fenders to length [Photo F]. Then sand each angled edge to match where it mates against the cowl. Take your time to ensure a tight fit. Glue on each fender, aligning it flush with the front of the hood and centered on the headlights.

3Cut the rear wheel wells (M) and glue them in place [Drawing 2].

4From your 1⁄4" maple blank, cut two 11⁄4×25⁄8" pieces. Tilt your blade to 14°,

crosscut each piece at its center, and glue each pair back together to make the seats (N) [Drawing 2a]. Sand the round-over. Glue the seats in place against the quarterpanels.

5Cut to size the windshield (O), round over one edge, and glue it in place

[Exploded View].

Tip! When drilling a hole

in a small part such as

the machine gun (P), hold

the part steady in a wood

hand-screw clamp and

use a drill press.

C

D

AL

MACHINE GUN3

6Apply finish to the Jeep (we sprayed on three coats of aerosol lacquer). Also fin-

ish five wheels and axle pegs [Source], being careful to keep finish off the portion of the pegs that will be glued into the chassis.

7Glue on the wheels and axle pegs, using washers only on the four rotating wheels

[Drawing 1]. The wheels should freely rotate without excess slop. Cut down the axle peg holding the spare tire. Spread open a 5⁄8” eye screw to make a tow hook and add it to the back of the Jeep, centered on the end of the frame (A) [Drawing 2].

Add the machine gun

1Cut the machine gun (P) to size and shape [Full-size Pattern]. Drill holes for the

gun barrel and stand. With a square, check that the gun is perfectly vertical before drill-ing the barrel hole.

2Cut the barrel, stand, gun grip (Q), and ammo box (R) to size [Drawing 3]. Assem-

ble the machine gun. Apply finish and allow it to dry before gluing the stand into the hole in the floorboard (E).


¼" hole ½" deep

¼" hole ¼" deep

Cradle¼" dowel 1½" long

Barrel¼" dowel 5" long

T

X

Y

#6-32 machine screw¾" long

5/8" eye screw

V

V

½"

7/32" axle peg11/8" long

1½" wooden wheel

¼" washer

1/16"

1/16"

1/16"

Lock nut

S

W

W

7/32" hole ¼" deep

1/8"

U

Z

Drill angled 1⁄16" pilot holes for 5⁄8" eye screws. Eyeball the

angle so the eyes overlap when the angled edges of the tow

bars meet, allowing the Jeep’s tow hook to fit through them.

G

UPPER SHIELD

R=1/8"½" hole

5/8"

2¼"

1¼"

11/8"

V

T

TOW BAR

R=3/16"

9/64" hole

3/8"

3/16"

¼"

¾"

5"

Materials List, Draw-

1⁄2" hole ] and complete the slot

].

3Cut the tow bars (V) and tow-bar brackets

(W) [Full-size Pattern]. Drill and shape them [Drawing

5]. Glue the tow-bar

]. Then drill angled

the tow bars [Photo G]. Attach the tow bars to the brackets with screws and lock nuts.

4Cut the barrel mount (X) and bolt (Y) to size. Drill a hole into the end of each for

the barrel and cradle dowels. Glue in the dowels, and then glue the barrel to the bar-rel mount [Drawing 4]. Glue this assembly to the axle.

5Cut the recoil guard (Z) to shape [Full-size

Pattern], drill holes, remove the pattern, and glue it to the bolt (Y).

6Apply finish and add the wheels, axle pegs, and washers as you did for the Jeep. Your

classic battlefield duo is ready for action!

V

37MM GUN4

37MM GUN PARTS VIEWS5

Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Qty.

Jeep

A* frame 1⁄4" 23⁄8" 61⁄4" M 1

B back seat 1" 23⁄8" 13⁄4" M 1

C* cowl 11⁄2" 3" 1⁄2" C 1

D* hood 11⁄2" 21⁄2" 11⁄2" C 1

E floorboard 1⁄4" 3" 21⁄8" M 1

F dashboard 1⁄8" 11⁄2" 3" M 1

G rear quarterpanels 1⁄4" 13⁄8" 4 1⁄4" C 2

H end gate 1⁄4" 11⁄8" 3" C 1

I front wheel spacers 3⁄16" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" M 2

J front bumper 1⁄4" 1⁄4" 23⁄8" M 1

K fuel can 3⁄8" 7⁄8" 1 1⁄4" M 1

L* fenders 1⁄8" 1⁄2" 2" M 2

M rear wheel wells 1⁄4" 5⁄8" 1 3⁄4" C 2

N* seats 1⁄4" 11⁄4" 11⁄4" M 2

O windshield 1⁄8" 13⁄8" 3" M 1

P* machine gun 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 11⁄2" C 1

Q gun grip 1⁄8" 3⁄8" 5⁄8" M 1

R ammo box 1⁄4" 3⁄4" 5⁄8" C 1

Produced by Bill Krier with Kevin Boyle

Project design: Kevin Boyle

Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson

Source: Each kit includes the hardware and specialty parts to build one Jeep and one 37mm gun. You provide the lumber. 1⁄8" dowel rod 3" long, 1⁄4" dowel rod 10" long, 11⁄2" wooden wheels (7), 7⁄32" axle pegs (7), 1⁄4" galvanized washers (6), 5⁄8" eye screws (3), #6-32×3⁄4" machine screws (2), #6-32 lock nuts (2). Kit no. RS-01149, $5.95, 888-636-4478, woodmagazine.com/jeepkit.

woodmagazine.com 53

FINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Qty.

37mm gun

S axle 1⁄2" 1⁄2" 21⁄2" C 1

T upper shield 1⁄8" 11⁄4" 21⁄4" M 1

U lower shield 1⁄8" 5⁄16" 21⁄4" M 1

V tow bars 1⁄4" 3⁄8" 5" C 2

W tow-bar brackets 1⁄4" 7⁄16" 3⁄4" M 2

X barrel mount 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 1" C 1

Y bolt 3⁄8" 3⁄8" 1⁄2" C 1

Z recoil guard 1⁄8" 1⁄2" 11⁄8" M 1

*Parts initially cut under- or oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: M–maple, C–cherry.Bits: 1⁄8", 3⁄16", and 1⁄4" round-over router bits; 3⁄8" Forstner bit.

34 December 2000 Woodworker's j ournal

Belly BUildingCut the two oval bellies (pieces 3) toshape using the provided patte rns.Drill three 1/8" alignme nt holes atthe locations shown on the pattern,then mark the top of each belly witha penciled X, so you're sure of thecorrect orientation in later steps.Use a utility knife to carefully scorethrough the paper pattern, rightalong all the body spacer alignment

just use a 3/8" Forstner bit in yourdrill press for this operation. Sincethe mortises will be hidd en withinthe camel, and the fit is supposed tobe quite loose , Stickley-qualityworkman ship isn 't mandatory here.

While you have the 3/8" bitchucked in the drill press, drill athr ough hole at the eye location.Sand the body and slightly roundthe outside edges, then go aheadand glue the walnut eyes (pieces 2)in place.

The Head and TailYou can find a complete set of fullsize drawings for this project beginning on page 38, and the first step inconstruction is to make two copiesof these. Next , refer to theMaterials List on page 36 to verifythe thickness of each shaped part.With this in mind, rip and crosscutoak blanks and attach the patterncopies to them with spray adhesive.

Band saw the body (piece 1) toshape, cutting just outside the lineson the pattern. Then drill a 1/8"pivot hole at the location shown onthe pattern .

Small tenons on the humps willeventually ride in mor tises in thebody. The front morti se is stopped,while the rear one goes all the waythrough the body. If you don't haveaccess to a mortising machine or adrill press morti sing attachment,

lhe last words spoken in one of myfavorite movies, A River RunsThrough It, are "I am haunted bywaters." I, on the other hand, amhaunted by cartoons. So, whenthinking about developing ananimated character to add to mygrowing collection , the first imagethat came to mind was an oldcartoon - a caravan of camelsracing acro ss the deser t withhump s reciprocating like pistons.Bringing thi s memor y to lifeseemed like a wort hy challenge, so1headed for the shop.

The authorusesa testing jig to test themoving parts in his designs. The additional holesseen in this prototype are not includedin the final piece.

Want to take

your toys to the

next level?

The author does

just that by

incorporating

key parts that

serve to

articulate his

projects . Here's

a camel whose

humps, head,

legs and tail all

move as he's

rolled forward.

35

@

oUse this

drawing toposit ion the leg

assembly asyou pin andglue them

together at thecenter pin joint.

Use thisdrawing to

pos ition the legassembly asyou pin andglue them

together at thecenter pin joint.

Tx W X L TxW xL1 Body (1) 11/16 " x 4'/2" x 11 " 14 Tires (8) O-rings . to fit

2 Eyes (2) 3/8 " Walnut buttons 15 Front Lower Leg (2) 1/4" x 2" x 1"

3 Bell ies (2) 1" x 4%" X 6'/." 16 Rear Lower Leg (2) 1/4 " x 2%" x 1"

4 Body Spacer A (1) 3/4" x 1'/2" x 7/8 " 17 Front Middle Leg (2) 1/4" x 7/8" x 2%"

5 Body Spacer B (1) 3/4" x 1'/. ' x 1'/." 18 Rear Middle Leg (2) 1/4" x 7/8" x 2'%"

6 Body Spacer C (1) 3/4" x 1/2" x 1'/2" 19 Upper Leg (4) 1/4 " x 1''/,. ' x 3'.4"

7 Body Spacer 0 (1) 3/4 " x 2" x 4'/2" 20 Hump Pins (2) 1/4" Dia. x 11/16 "

8 Front Hump' (1) 11/16 " x 15J6' x 4'/8" 21 Axles (2) 1/4" Dia. x 2%"

9 Rear Hump ' (1) 11/16" x 1%" x 3'/.' 22 Cam pin (1) Wooden toothpick

10 Inne r Pyramid (1) 3/4" x 3" x 6'/'" 23 Push rod (1) 1/4" Dia . x 3W'

11 Outer Pyramids (2) 1/4" x 3" x 6'/8" 24 Body Pivot Pin (1) 1/8 " x 2'14'

12 Wheels (4) 3/4" x 2" Dia. 25 Leg Hinges" (16) 3/4 " Brass pins

13 Cam (1) 11/16 " x 1" /'6" Dia .3 6 • Trimmed to size from a larger piece. •• Cut to length on the front and rear leg assemblies.

Figure 1: After attaching a full-size patterntoeach blank, band saw close to the line andfinish up with a sander.

lines. This is a han dy way to exactlytransfer the spacer locations fromthe pattern to the wood. Using aspindle sander, sand carefully to thelines on the pattern . Once you'redone with that, you can remove thepaper patterns from the bellies.

Cut the body spacers (pieces 4through 7) to size next. Cut right tothe lines on the pattern where theparts wi11 be internal to the camel'sbody, but just a little outside of theline where it wi11 stand proud of thebody; you'll sand them flush later.

Round over the outside edges ofthe bellies with a bearing-guided3/8" bit in your router table. Nowit's time to glue and clamp thespacers to one of the bellies (don'tglue the second one in place yet)and let it dr y. Move back to yourspindle sande r and smooth th espace rs to the edge of the belly.

Making the HumpsBegin making the humps (pieces 8and 9) by ripping a 12" long piece ofstock to the thickness and widthreq uired. Attach the hump patternsto this stock , with the tenons at theends and the rounded top of eachhu mp toward the middle of theworkpiece. Dri11 an elongated 5/16"

Woodworker's j ournal December 2000

pivot hole in each hump, where thetenon wi11 be cut. This hol e' slocation is shown on the pattern.Create it by drilling a series of holeson the dr ill press, then clean themup with a roun d file.

Mi11 the tenon s next. This is saferon a 12" long workpiece than itwould be on the individual humps.Reveal the cheeks on the table sawwith a dado head and your mitergauge, then band saw the shoulderto shape. Stay at the band saw to cutthe humps free of the 12" piece ofstock, then sand flush to the lines.Round over both faces of eachhump, using a 1/4" bearing-guidedbit chucked in your router (useyour router table) .

The Pyramid BaseWe travel to the mystical land ofpyramids to create the base. From3/4" walnut , cut the inner pyramid(piece 10) to shape. Th e trick iesteleme nt of mak ing th is part isdri11ing the 5/16" hole through it.Th e location of this hole is shownon th e pattern. Clamp th eworkpiece to your dri11 press fenceat the appropriate angle, the n bandsaw a wedge of waste lumb er tosuppor t the part at this angle whileyou dri11 the hole. Make sure thece nterline of the bit lines upperfectly with the centerline of thehole pattern before you begin.

From 1/4" walnut , cut the outsidepyramid layers (pieces 11) to shape.Glue and clamp them to the innerpyramid. After the glue dries, sandall edge s flush and drill the two axleholes at the location s shown.

Glue the assemb led pyramid to

Figure2: The loose mortises in the body canbe chopped on the drill press:A mortisingattachment is not necessary.

Figure 3: Markthe top of each oval belly withan X, soyou can tell which waythey shouldbe oriented later on duringassembly.

th e belly that has th e spacersattached to it, making sure that theinner pyramid lines up horizontallywith the spacers. Then, with a long5/16" bit, and using the ho le in thebase as a gui de, continue thepushrod hole up through the lowerbody space r.

Figure 4: Use a utility knife to scribe theoutlinesof the bodyspacers, so youstill havealignment lines after the paper is removed.

37

BodySpacer .A- v~.~

5/64 "

1/16"

...~..;..~.:{'".§.Q.[ol'-saw the 6i:j8y'spacers exactly.".,...

. -;:: :};,---r -:;" to their inside lines . buJ,cutjust

..~. - . outside their exterior lines ... sand_ (hf:.excess to fit the bellies later. ." ,

_w ..... .~:. 0;.' _ . .. .. ..:-..~_~.~~.. ~

Makea wheel sanding jig. After sanding,scribe the tire grooves with a sharp tool,taking careto keep the point of the toolpointed away fromthe wheel 's rotation.

Figure 5: While theyarestill part of a largerpiece of stock, use a dado head to safelyreveal the cheeks onthe hump tenons.

Cut your wheels a bit oversized andthen sand them round on your jig.Next scrap the gro oves for the 0ring tires. On the cam, you'll have toplug the center hole with a doweland glue, then drill the eccentricaxle hole as shown on the pattern.

Makingthe WheelsBand saw the four wheels (pieces12) and the cam (piece 13) to shape,then use the sanding jig shownbelow to sand their edges right tothe pattern lines. Th e wheels areequipped with two a-ring tires each(pieces 14), for traction . Th ese areset in V-grooves in the edges of thewheels. Make your whee l sandingjig from a 3/16" threaded rod, a nutand two rubber-backed wash ers.

38 December 2000 Woodworker's Journal

1/4" Frontaxle location

Inner10 Pyramid

..-"..:r ,

,

~~,,,-:f-

/PuSh rod.-' mortise

-«: The inner pyramid is.> shaped to allow

space for the cam.

,"

1/S" Body p ivot- hole location

~-=1

11

,----1/4 " Rear~ axle'CD location

Woodworker'sJournal December 2000 39

Hold the cam in place between therear axle holes and run a length of1/4" dowel (the rear axle, piece 21)through the axle holes and cam.Secure the cam to the axle by firstdrilling a 3/ 32" hole through theshort length of the cam and onthrough the axle. Insert a roundtoothpick (piece 22), loaded withglue, and sand it flush when dr y.

Cut a piece of dowel to make thepushrod (piece 23). Round over itsends and test the fit until the rod islong enough to lift the head fully,but not so long that it binds. Whenyou are satisfied with the fit of thepushrod, glue the second body halfin place, (to the spacers, not thebody!). Replace the Sd nail with theBody Pivot Pin (piece 24) for thisstep, to keep things lined up.

Giving the Project Some LegsGlue the back wheels to the rearaxle, making sure that the footcapture holes are opposed IS0°.Install the front wheels on their axle,again making sure that the wheels'capture holes are oppos ed .Assemble the legs in right- and lefthand orientations, hinging them tothe bellies with 3/4" leg hinges(pieces 25). All of the other joints arepinned so they move easily enoughto let your Bactrian bob alongfreely over the desert dunes. /,1}

John Hutchinson is an Ohio architectwith a passion for articulated toysand a keen memoryfor cartoons.His cricket xylophone wasfeatured inour December 1998 issue and his

populardragon toy waspresentedin our April 2000 magazine.

Finish and AssemblyI wanted to impart a camel color tothe oak, and Michael Dresdner'sarticle in the August 2000 issue putme on the right track. I went with awater soluble wood dye instead of astain. Early American Maple fromTransfast" worked like a champ.Follow the manufacturer's instructions to dye all the oak parts, thenapply a wipe-on tung oil and aurethane topcoat (mask off theareas yet to be glued) to all the toy'sparts, including the walnut ones.

When the finish is dry, positionthe pivot point of the body over thecenter hole in the belly with thespacers attached . Temporarilyinsert an Sd finish nail to keep it inplace. Slip the hump tenons intotheir mortises in the body, and keepthem there with 1/4" hump pins(pieces 20). Th ese can be glued tothe body, but not the tenon .

Samuel Appleget is pleasedwith this toy for all seasons.

Figure 6: Use clamps anda scrapwood wedgeto secure the inner pyramid at the correctangle while drilling the pushrod hole.

Scroll or band saw the twelve legparts (pieces 15 through 19) toshape, then drill the two holes ineach at the locations shown . As youdrill, note which are 1/16" captureholes, and which are 3/32" pivotholes. Th en sand the leg parts,gently breaking the edges. Nowlook to the leg position drawing onpage 36. Th e upper assembli es ofthe front and back legs are gluedand then pinned to give the leg aproper dromedary strid e. Place adrop of glue at the joint, and driveth e brass pin through th e predrilled hole and into a piece ofscrap softwood. After the glue hascured, pull the piece free and clipthe pin flush. Rememb er, thereare right and left leg assemblies.

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