TOURING HERITAGE DISCOVER I ADMIRE I FEEL

BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ TOURISM MAGAZINE 2017

EVERYBODY OUTSIDE!

A QUEST FOR SPIRITUALITY

IT’S MADE JUST FOR YOU!

&WALKS BREAKS WEEKENDS

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CONTENTS ❙ 04 Burgundy-Franche-Comté takes you on journeys

❙ 06 Famous Signatures

❙ 12 Everybody outside!

❙ 15The joy of boating

❙ 16Heritage at the water’s edge

❙ 20 A stone’s throw from town

❙ 22 A quest for spirituality

❙ 24I feel at home in Belfort ❙ 26 In the saddle with the wind in your hair

❙ 28Town bikes / Country bikes

❙ 30Once upon a time in Vosges du Sud

❙ 32 The cavalier spirit

❙ 34One big open-air history book

❙ 36 Rebels & Resistance

❙ 37Rebellious, daring, beautiful Besançon

❙ 38It’s child’s play

❙ 409 wonderful ideas for trips out into nature in Burgundy- Franche-Comté

❙ 42It’s made just for you!

❙ 46(Doing) Burgundy-Franche-Comté

❙ 47Travelling to Burgundy-Franche-Comté

20 I feel at home in Belfort

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Magazine published by Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism - http://en.bourgognefranchecomte.com • With the fi nancial support of the Burgundy-Franche-Comté Regional Council • Concept and design: Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme (C. Vasselet) • Photo credits: Alain Doire / Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme - Montagnes du Jura - Montagnes du Jura / Benjamin Becker - Maxime Coquard et Elisa Detrey (Bestjobers) - Offi ce de tourisme d’Ornans / Vincent Becque - Cristallerie La Rochère - Michel Joly - Laurent Cheviet - Régis Antoine - Château d’Ancy le Franc - Les Canalous - MTCC / Yves Goux - Sandrine Baverel - Maison du Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Mercier - Jean Becker - Maiosn du Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Martin - Les Eurockéennes de Belfort - Entrevues - Denis Bringard - Infra / Massif des Vosges - Offi ce de tourisme Luxeuil-les-Bains - Guillaume Perret - Nath Michel / Communauté de communes de la Station des Rousses - Vilac - Musée des Maisons Comtoises de Nancray - Fromageries Marcel Petite - Jura Tourisme / Audrey Dénégnan - Musée de la Lunette / Benjamin Becker - MTCC / Ecomusée du Pays de la Cérise - DR • Editor: Anne Chauveau • Printed by: Imprimeries Vincent (Tours) (2017 edition).

For a weekend, a week or longer (it’s your choice), prepare your escapade in Burgundy-Franche-Comté, a land on a human scale that really gets your mind and body moving. In these pages, fi nd inspiration for your break. And if you are still torn between nature and culture, not to worry: everything comes together here. More than perfect ;-)

A bit of advice if you want to get the measure of the destination: open your eyes and put your senses on high alert. Sporty or contemplative, here adventure is everywhere; at a monument, on a street, in a forest or along a path.

All that remains is for you to pack your suitcase. Some things you may need to pack in order to make the most of Burgundy-Franche-Comté:- Comfortable shoes, because whether in the city or out in nature, you often see the best things whilst on foot.- A camera or smartphone to take pictures and share them. But remember that the most important thing is to enjoy the moment without the fi lter of a screen. So make sure to feast your eyes. - A travelling companion; this could be a lover, a few kids, your parents, a brother or sister, one or more friends that are particularly dear to you. The most important thing about any journey is sharing it with someone you love. - A notebook and pencils to jot down, sketch, collect and remember in a different way.- Sunglasses and clothing that is appropriate to the season and to your needs. Whether skiing, snow-shoeing, walking, biking, sailing, touring, attending concerts, visiting markets or museums, lounging around, partying, shopping, discovering, trekking, jogging, recharging the batteries, fi nding yourself, exploring, horse riding, tasting, travelling through time, enjoying the very latest trends…

In summary, pack a suitcase that reflects you and us. But don’t panic: anything you may have forgotten, we are sure to have it here.

So, ready to go? 35 Once upon a time in Vos ges du Sud

12 Townbikes /Countrybikes

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GO WITH YOUR INSTINCTTHE JURA MOUNTAINS, THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN

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BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ TAKES YOU ON JOURNEYS Enjoying wonderful encounters, being astonished, discovering and creating memories; that’s what so special about journeys. No need to travel to the ends of the Earth! Here’s the proof.

Along a raging river, on the shaded esplanade of a Roman basilica or on the quaysides of a lively town; atop a mountainous summit, along a winding woodland trail, in a wine producer’s cellar or on a steep narrow street that climbs to an impregnable citadel; seated at the bar in a village bistro or at table in a chic restaurant: Burgundy- Franche-Comté provides countless places and moments of pure emotion.

The emotion of the mountains, for instance, on the Vosges Massif or Jura Mountains, two exceptional destinations for lovers of nature, authenticity, fresh air, green spaces and even a winter snowfall.At their feet stretch lands of great diversity that also combine all the elements that make life so sweet. In Burgundy-Franche-Comté, take time to enjoy the spirit of the countryside to the full. Created in the image of Burgundy is a concentration of cultural, historic and natural heritage sites that illuminate France. So much so that a brand was established to defi ne these simple, generous and authentic pleasures: Designed by Bourgogne.

Heritage jewels, wonderful encounters and the good life are waiting to be enjoyed.Your journeys start here.

www.montagnes-du-jura.comwww.massif-des-vosges.comwww.burgundy-tourism.com

BURGUNDY IS MADE FOR YOU!BURGUNDY INVENTS A NEW TYPE OF WEEKENDS. WOO-HOOOO!

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CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES

FAMOUS SIGNATURESChâteaux, fortresses, ruins, towns and villages, religious, civic, military and even industrial heritage are all witness to the history of our lives and of our lands. Places where these remarkable sites have put down roots to benefi t from a waterway, a promontory, a geographical location or specifi c natural resources and advantages. Managed, extended and protected by the men and women of Burgundy-Franche-Comté, this exceptional heritage has lasted through the ages until now. Each of these sites boasts a precious heritage, and bears the signature of Burgundy-Franche-Comté.

From the basilica of Vézelay to the Grande Saline salt works at Salins-

les-Bains, from Alésia to the Lion de Belfort, from Cluny to Saint-Claude, let’s go on a journey. A journey into

the past and across the lands of Burgundy-Franche-Comté.

Our journey begins with a prodigious leap into the past, right back to the 1st century before Christ, to Mont Beuvray. This is a land to the south of the Morvan where the Gallo-Celtic Aedui people established their capital: Bibracte. The 200 ha. town surrounded by ramparts is one of the high spots of ancient history, as it was here that Vercingétorix was named chief of the coalition of Gauls. Fortifi cations, monumental doorways, public buildings, homes and workshops still provide evidence of the fascinating history of the site.

Still with our Gaul ancestors, we head to 52 B.C, the moment Julius Caesar won the Battle of Alésia and, with it, the conquest of Gaul. This is Côte-d’Or, beside Alise-Sainte-Reine, and we re-join Vercingétorix. It was here that the Arverne’s great chief surrendered at the feet of the all-powerful Roman Emperor. Dominating the Auxois Land of Art and History is his statue, commissioned by Napoleon III, which overlooks the site. Its plinth reads “A united Gaul, forming a single nation, animated by the same spirit, can defy the universe”. The MuséoParc Alésia interpretation centre explores the point of view of the Gauls and of their great Roman enemies, with an interactive and dynamic discovery of the famous battle and its challenges. Also on the site, the ruins of a Gallo-Roman town have been revealed by years of digs, evidence of an ancient city that stood here until the V Century.

A few decades after the War of the Gauls, the Aedui deserted Bibracte in favour of a new capital in Autun. The Romans founded Augustodunum. The destiny of the town was changing. Autun still remains a treasure box for archaeologists. Visitors can see ramparts, towers, the Couhard Pyramid, the Saint-André and Arroux gates and even the Temple of Janus, the two-faced god, which is a great mystery. As for the town’s Gallo-Roman theatre, it was once the largest in the whole Western Roman Empire, maintaining this title well into the Middle Ages. Evidence of this period is found in the medieval quarter and Saint-Lazare Cathedral (XII Century), a masterpiece of Cluniac art.

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THE MEDIEVAL WINDS BLOWCluny of course. Bathed by the waters of the Grosne, a tributary of the Saône, and flanked by the Charolais dales, on this fertile land of southern Burgundy a Benedictine abbey was founded in 910 AD. A masterpiece of Roman art, whose ruins and monastic buildings still remain as evidence of religious power, the abbey influenced art and politics across Europe. Until the construction of St Peter’s in Rome in the 16th century, the abbey church at Cluny was the largest in Christendom! Augmented reality screens dotted across the abbey reveal what this place was really like. It is a remarkable journey back in time that can be extended with a visit to the town centre’s Roman houses, as well as to the neighbouring villages fi lled with châteaux, priories and chapels, such as Brancion, Berzé, Mazille or even Tournus.

Staying in the Middle Ages but heading to the Jura Mountains, within an enclosed valley at the confluence of the Bienne and Tacon rivers, the town of Saint-Claude was built on the foundations of a powerful Benedictine abbey. This pilgrimage hotspot from the 15 to 16th century was personally visited by King Louis XI in 1456 and 1482. A wood and horn turning industry sprang up around the monastery, serving the needs of pilgrims. Through the centuries, the artisans diversifi ed their products: rosaries and prayer beads, as well as pipes and toys. These skills, tools and attention to detail was then employed by the people of Jura in the clock industry of its Swiss neighbours, making precious stones and enamel clock faces. Around Saint-Claude and Morez, the Haut-Jura still boasts a proud reputation and living evidence of this great savoir-faire can still be seen.

CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES

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SACRED UNESCO SITESAbbeys, monasteries, priories: religion and the evangelists have left their mark everywhere on our lands and carved out a fabulous destiny. The international spotlight is fi rmly on the big stars of this religious heritage: the UNESCO World Heritage sites at the gateway to the Avallonnais. At the summit of the “eternal hill” is a myth: that of the basilica of Sainte-Madeleine de Vézelay. Princes, Kings, Emperors and everyday people have come as pilgrims in their thousands since the 12th century to venerate the relics of the Saint before proceeding along the Way of St James or to the Crusades. The basilica is a masterpiece of Roman art. The medieval town that visitors cross to reach it is also wildly charming, a place of serenity and fulfi lment that is truly timeless.

Switching massifs, we now go to the foot of the Vosges du Sud. Christia-nity once again was responsible for the birth of Luxeuil-les-Bains. It was here that a spring of hot water, already appreciated by the Romans, was discovered. It was said to bring purity, longevity and fertility. In 610, the Irish monk St Colomban set off with 12 companions to evangelise Gaul and erected one of the fi rst monasteries in Europe around this source. Thanks to its religious aura of the High Middle Ages and precious waters, the town of pink sandstone prospered. Cloister, abbey, thermal baths, sculpted façades, staircases, elegant arcades, towers and turrets, the old town centre takes us back into history, from the Gothic to the Belle Époque, and through the Renaissance. Delightful!

• Basilica and hill of Vézelay• Cistercian abbey of Fontenay in Marmagne• Saline Royale salt works at Arc-et-Senans• The Ways of St-James (priory church of Sainte-Croix de Notre-Dame in La Charité-sur-Loire, church of Saint-Jacques d’Asquins and basilica of Sainte-Madeleine de Vézelay)• Fortifi cations and Citadel by Vauban in Besançon• Grande Saline salt works at Salins-les-Bains• Prehistoric dwellings around the Alps (Chalain and Clairvaux lakes)• The Climats of the Burgundy wine region• The architectural work by Le Corbusier (chapelle de Ronchamp)

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BEAUTIFUL AND REBELIOUS TOWNSJust a few kilometres from the unique chapel lies the land of Belfort. This rebellious land has always fought against occupation or invasion, whether French, Prussian or Austrian; Belfort is a lion that runs free, with a heart of (pink) stone. Quarried in the neighbouring Vosges, its façades are made of pink sandstone, as are the château, citadel, fortifi cations and Bartholdi’s lion that overlooks the rooftops of the old town and a maze of narrow streets and small squares where visitors love to get lost. Crossing the bridges and the Savoureuse, the town turns into residential neighbourhoods that stretch up to the doorstep of the great industrial sites that have taken Belfort and its surrounding area to the forefront of mechanical excellence. Picturesque, busy, industrial and still very green: the ponds (Malsaucy and Des Forges) and forests make the land of the lion rugged and natural. It’s a question of balance.

This same balance of greenery, water and stone defi nes Besançon. Nestling in a meander of the Doubs beside green hills, Besançon has bolstered its natural defences with clever constructions. The fortifi cations and famous citadel by Vauban have earned this Comtois beauty UNESCO recognition. This stone ring built more than 100m high towers over the town and gives it an identity and charm. The site can be visited and is now home to museums and a zoo. In 1678, after the signing of the Teaty of Nijmegen, Besançon and its region fi nally became part of France, and Louis XIV commissioned his military architect Vauban to construct the citadel. All at once, Besançon became a cornerstone of the kingdom’s eastern defences and the regional capital.

Until then it was Dole that boasted that position and all the benefi ts of its status. Hôtel-Dieu hospital, collegiate church, parliament, university, mansion houses, priories; this Jura town still shows evidence of a prestigious past. It provides wonderful opportunities to stroll along narrow streets, gardens and the Canal des Tanneurs. This town is marked by the birth of a great man and son of a tanner; Louis Pasteur. The birth house of the genius can be visited.

CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES

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DARING AND CREATIVITYRebellious, visionary, ingenious, creative: there are countless adjectives to describe the local people. Evidence of this strong character is found in Pays de Montbéliard, which adds entrepreneurial and daring to the list of regional attributes.Entrepreneurial like the automobile industry that was the beating heart of the town. Alongside the fairy tale château and the surprising gardens of Près-la-Rose, a hymn to horticultural science and knowledge, you can hear the famous Peugeot lion roar. Firstly, there are the manufacturing sites established in 1912, a veritable historic monument to industry that is expanded upon further in the Aventure Peugeot Museum. This is an astonishing saga that recaps more than two centuries of mechanical excellence.

Audacious like its children, Peugeot and Japy in particular, but also the researchers and scholars (like Georges Cuvier, father of palaeontology, or Henri Mouhot, naturalist and discoverer of the Temples of Angkor), artists and architects that have marked its history and streets.

This is a colourful and surprising history. Montbéliard has been beautifully marked by 400 years of rule by the Princes of Wurtemberg. Accents from across the Rhine can be heard in the colourful walls, columns, Renaissance houses or the Temple of Saint-Martin, the oldest monument of the French Reformation. This is a work by Heinrich Shickhardt, the Leonard da Vinvi of Swabian Jura and architect of the Princes of Wurtemberg.

THE LAND OF WHITE GOLDThe forest of Chaux lies at the doorstep of Dole. The site of the Saline Royale salt works at Arc-et-Senans, a major work by Claude-Nicolas Ledoux built under Louis XV and echoing the Grande Saline at Salins-les-Bains, is just 21km away. In the narrow valley of the apt-ly named River Furieuse, the Romans already extracted that precious gem that abounds beneath the Jura soil. Through the centuries, the salt extraction trade followed the twists and the power games played out between the Duchy of Burgundy and the kingdoms of Spain and France. This great saga of white gold is recounted in the fascinating Grande Saline. Underground, a clever network of pits and galleries from the XIII Century, equipped with ingenious machinery, allowed workers to pump salt water (330g of salt per litre!). The Grande Saline at Salins-les-Bains and the Saline Royale at Arc-et-Senans are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

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BREATHE THE WIDE OPEN SPACES

Everybody outside!

That’s an order you have to

obey in Burgundy-

Franche-Comté

A marvellous playground for activities and trails, studded with iconic itineraries and nature sites that are well-preserved and wild, just waiting to be (re)discovered.

Focus on 2 massifs, 2 Nature Parks and 2 major itineraries.

Grab your maps and backpacks!

IN WINTER AS WELL AS IN SUMMER,

THOUSANDS OF PATHS, TRAILS, ROUTES,

TRACKS, LOOPS AND COURSES LIE IN WAIT.

WHETHER YOU ARE A WALKER, RUNNER,

MOUNTAIN BIKER, HORSE RIDER, CYCLIST

OR SKIER, WEARING TRAINERS OR SNOW

SHOES, ALONE OR WITH THE WHOLE TRIBE, AN

ADVENTURER AND EXPLORER, A SPORTY

TYPE OR A SUNDAY STROLLER, THE WHOLE REGION BECOMES ONE

GIANT TRAIL.

TWO NATURE PARKS AND TWO MAJOR ITINERARIES

MDJ, GTJ, GTM, PNR : on this page you should beware of the acronyms! Don’t panic, here are the translations: Jura Mountains - Grandes Traversées du Jura Trails – Grande Traversée du Morvan Trails - Regional Nature Park

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The GTM: The Morvan on a mountain bikeFrom Avallon in the Yonne to Autun in Saône-et-Loire, the Grande Traversée du Morvan Trail provides mountain bikers with the most beautiful trails on the massif. Designed for a week-long tour, the GTM is also ideal for weekend and one day circuits and is accessible to all. For the long version, the programme has a sporty feel: 314.2 kilometres and 6,871 metres of climbs! But it’s worth the effort to pass the most beautiful nature and tourist sites in the region, such as the lakes of Crescent, Saint-Agnan and Settons, the Haut-Folin (the highest point in the Morvan at 901m), Mont-Beuvray… At the heart of the PNR, this varied trail is dotted with suppliers catering for all the mountain biker’s needs, listed in a topography guide. The itinerary bears the Fédération Française de Cyclisme label. www.morvanvtt.fr

The GTJ: a mountain of adventuresThe GTJ boasts 6 trails covering 6 activity itineraries on the Jura Mountains: on foot (400 km), mountain bike (380km), bike (360 to 400km depending on the itinerary), cross-country skiing (175km), snow shoeing (135km) and even on horseback (over 500km). Topo-graphy guides, GPS, signs, snow info, address book: everything is on hand to help visitors. More than 150 accommodation sites are linked to a network that brings together hospitality professionals along the trails. GTJ is all about encounters. Unmissable sites, heritage discoveries, relaxing breaks, gourmet stops, savoir-faire: The Jura Mountains are inhabited, lively and welcoming, and they prove all this to anyone on the GTJ! Tranquil strolls for a few hours or a sporting escapade over a few days; what GTJ will you choose? www.gtj.asso.fr • www.montagnes-du-jura.fr

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PNR on the slopes of Morvan UA wild and undulating massif of granite, vast forests, lakes, bocage hedgerows, pine groves: that is the Morvan. An unexpected mountain. This multifaceted yet harmonious identity gave rise to the Regional Nature Park in the 1970s. This regional nature park touches 4 departments of Burgundy and has a surface area of 281,400 ha, promising wonderful encounters with producers, artisans and personalities that have defi ned this engaging land. Travelling along the trails and through the villages, step inside a local bistro or workshop to discover an entire human heritage.A pioneer, the Morvan was able to bring together its natural and human treasures under a scheme to protect and promote them sustainably, an approach that makes perfect sense across this welcoming land.

PNR on the slopes of Haut-JuraCovering nearly 178,000 ha of mid-mountain and 122 communes in the Doubs, the Jura and the Ain, the PNR Haut-Jura offers a multitude of landscapes and moods. It stretches across the limestone massif of the Jura, a natural border with Switzerland, and provides some very pretty summits at Crêt de la Neige (1720m), Crêt Pela (1495m) and Crêt de Chalam (1545m), before plunging into the deep gorges carved by the rivers and waterfalls. Towns and villages are home to 82,000 inhabitants and make the PNR a living and lively open space with a wonderful energy. Traditional savoir-faire and leading technologies sit side by side with total respect for the environment and the local area. The PNR was founded in 1986.

TWO MAISONS DU PARC VISITOR CENTRES

The Maison du Parc at Saint-Brisson is a valuable gateway and information point for the Morvan : 40 ha of flora and fauna along the paths of the Herbarium and along the Taureau Pond trails, an adventure trail to be enjoyed with the family and two museums that tell the story of the people, landscapes and history of this engaging land. www.parcdumorvan.org

In Lajoux, the Maison du Parc offers an overview of «Haut-Jura, a living land », explaining the woodlands and forests of course, but also the climate, geology, heritage, architecture, agriculture, industry and savoir-faire. Permanent exhibitions and temporary displays for young and old. This is also the headquarters of the PNR Haut-Jura.www.parc-haut-jura.fr

BREATHE THE WIDE OPEN SPACES

Taking the tiller of a boat means slowing down time.

Watching the world go by, negotiating locks, changing your point of view and, when the mood

takes you, dropping anchor for a stop to explore what lies around the riverbank, on foot or by bike.

A trail, a village, a market, a festival, a château: enjoy the moment. It’s all yours.

Boating along the waterways of Burgundy-Franche-Comté is accessible to all.

For one hour or half a day, step aboard a river boat. And if you want to be the captain on your own adventure, house boats are available for hire without the need for a permit at ports along

most of the navigable rivers and canals.

It’s an experience to enjoy with family and friends, for a weekend, a week or longer.

With the Petite Saône and the Saône, the Doubs, the canal du Centre and canal de Bourgogne, the Seille,

the Val de Loire, the canal du Nivernais and the Yonne, Burgundy-Franche-Comté boasts over 1,500km of

navigable waterways.

The joy of boating

A brochure on the waterways of Burgundy-Franche-Comté is available for free at: www.bourgognefranchecomte.com

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RAISE THE ANCHOR

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RAISE THE ANCHOR

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It transports, provides energy and works machinery, feeds the fi elds, nourishes, inspires, brings people together and makes them dream. Water is so plentiful across all our land, it has fashioned and defi ned life since the earliest times. On the rivers and waterways of Burgundy-Franche-Comté, towns, villages, châteaux, industries and workshops provide so many heritage gems to visit and explore. Anchors away!

THE BANKS OF THE YONNEJoignyFrom Joigny, fi rstly you can see a bridge with vast arches that are solidly planted into the river. You then see the ruins of the ramparts and medieval doorways, such as Saint-Jean (10th century) or Porte de Bois (13th century). Then there are the elegant Renaissance facades, such as the Château des Gondi overlooking the town or the Chapelle des Ferrand. Providing an invitation to wander, the historic centre of Joigny sits on the right bank of the Yonne. You can take the narrow and winding streets to explore the three historic quarters dotted around their respective churches: Saint-Jean and its typical wood-panelled houses, Saint-Thibault that was once devoted to artisans and merchants, and the cobbled streets of the wine quarter of Saint-André. www.joigny-tourisme.com

SensFrom Paris, Sens is a gateway to Burgundy, one where the river and the greenery provide a charming backdrop to its heritage. This was originally a flourishing walled Gallo-Roman town. The Middle Ages turned it into an ecclesiastical hub, as can be evidenced by the splendid cathedral of Saint-Etienne built in the 12th and 13th centuries; the very fi rst of the Gothic cathedrals. From the 18th century onwards, the town was in full bloom and constructed some remarkable buildings: mansion houses, covered market, theatre, town hall. The town’s museum in the old Synodal palace and the Archbishops’ Palace that houses the cathedral’s treasures should be visited. It is also a pleasure to browse the narrow streets around the covered market on the Île d’Yonne and wander the gardens, like those at the Orangery or the beautiful Parc du Moulin in Tan. www.tourisme-sens.com

THE BANKS OF THE CANAL DE BOURGOGNEAncy-le-FrancThis is an astonishing Renaissance palace on the lands of the Dukes of Burgundy. A masterpiece by Italian architect Sebastiano Serlio, master of symmetry and architecture of the 16th century, summoned to court by François I. Nestling in a great shaded park, the perfect quadrilateral with sombre and elegant lines houses extravagant treasures: a decoration of mural paintings attributed to the greatest Italian, Flemish and Burgundian artists of the 16th and 17th centuries: scenes of epic battles, Greek Gods and other heroes of mythology, portraits of Counts and Countesses, courtesans, cherubs and floral fantasies. www.chateau-ancy.com

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THE BANKS OF THE DOUBSMontbéliardFrom the marina, you pass the peninsula on the River Allan. It provides the opportunity to stop at the Près-la-Rose Science Park. A garden designed to be bucolic, but also dedicated to the sciences, boasts an unusual sundial, giant insects, a maze, the astonishing fountain of Galileo, Foucault’s pendulum and the aptly named Science Pavilion, a venue for exhibitions and experiments. Then there is the historic centre of the Cité des Ducs; the Dukes of Wurtemberg. 400 years of Germanic history give Montbéliard an extraordinary personality. In the image of its fairy tale château are the colourful half-timbered houses dotted around the Temple Saint-Martin constructed by Heinrich Schickhardt, the Maison Forstner known as the Maison des Princes, the Hôtel de Sponeck or the Hôtel Beurnier-Rossel that houses the Museum of Art and History.www.paysdemontbeliard-tourisme.com

DoleA parliament, a university, a mint…up until 1678 Dole was the capital of Franche-Comté. A status and splendour remembered by this listed Town of Art and History, making it an obligatory stop-off. Reaching Dole along the River Doubs and the canals is truly enchanting. Along the waterfront, a short way from the marina, the Tanneurs quarter offers the most beautiful way of entering the city. You cross a flower-fi lled bridge, skirt along the canal, near to where a certain Louis Pasteur was born in 1822, before happily losing yourself in the narrow streets of the former Comtoise capital. This provides an incredible concentration of remarkable sites and monuments, including around fi fty listed buildings: Hôtel-Dieu hospital, beautiful houses, gardens, former convents, fountains (including an astonishing underground example), city walls, palaces, halls, barracks, Templar’s chapel, churches, bridges, theatre and colleges. On the courtyard of the collegiate church of Notre-Dame, the covered market with allures of the Pavillon Baltard provides an excuse for a gourmet stop. www.tourisme-paysdedole.fr

THE BANKS OF THE SAÔNEMâconThe town of Lamartine, Mâcon was born in the II Century AD. A crossroads and frontier between the Kingdom of France and the Holy Germanic Empire between 843 and 1600, the town prospered, most notably due to its geographical location and the river that crossed it. To explore its history and rich heritage, The Tracé de la Plume trail, a homage to Lamartine, crosses the town centre: the square and the church, the town hall, the Saône quayside up to the Pont Saint-Laurent, the Maison de Bois, Rue du Vieux Saint-Vincent, the picturesque Passage des Amphores, the Maison du Bailli and the Ursuline Museum, the Chandon and Lamartine mansion houses, Saint-Vincent Cathedral, the Hôtel-Dieu hospital. Just one or two hours on the trail promises some wonderful discoveries punctuated with gourmet stops.*Free mobile app. www.macon.fr

Paddling to Dole“The Dragonfl y Trail” is a touristic canoe-kayak route using a GPS (shock and water resistant) built into the boat that tells the eco-canoeist the natural and historic heritage of Dole.

RAISE THE ANCHOR

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The mysteries of the Fosse Dionne (Tonnerre)Imagine a vast circular basin converted into a washhouse with covered lean-tos. Turquoise waters draw the eye towards a gaping black void. Captivating. Intriguing. Where did this unfathomable pool come from? Nobody knows. Not even the potholers that have tried to explore its depths, without success, letting the imagination run wild... Is this where the ancient basilisk with a killer gaze resided? Did the emerald coloured cloak of the Virgin save a young Tonnerroise girl from the clutches of the Devil? What we do know, however, is that the town has grown around this mysterious spot since Antiquity.

Chalon-sur-SaôneFrom the marina located in the heart of the town, come and wander along the Coulée Verte up to the St-Nicolas leisure park. Take a detour into the St-Vincent quarter. Built around the Gothic cathedral (XI and XVI Centuries) that shares its name, this district brimming with medieval charm is bursting with pretty boutiques, cafés, restaurants, wine bars (the vineyards are nearby), narrow streets and delightful little squares. The ideal departure point for an urban discovery that leads to the Théâtre Piccolo (Italian style), the Musée Vivant-Denon devoted to Fine-Arts and archaeology, the Musée Niepce, based on the inventor of photography, and the Tour du Doyenné on the Île Saint-Laurent to the other side of the bridge. At midday, return to the Place St-Vincent that is brought to life by its market and terrace cafés. Time to take a break and check the programme of “Chalon dans la rue”, one of the most important street Arts festivals in France: 5 days, 1000 artists and a whole town celebrating every summer. www.achalon.com

CROSSING THE FURIEUSESalins-les-BainsNestling between Forts Belin and Saint-André, at the foot of Mont Poupet, Salins-les-Bains, a Town of Character, stretches along a tumultuous river: La Furieuse. It is a town that boasts genuine natural treasures: salt, water and wood. The salt water springs were already used by the Romans and brought great wealth to the town, as well as heritage. Starting at the Grande Saline, listed by UNESCO as World Heritage, along the narrow streets of the town, discover the town hall, Hôtel-Dieu hospital and its apothecary, the collegiate church of Saint-Anatole and a new thermal spa. For travelling around the land of the white gold, the Gabelous trail flanks the former brine canal of the Grande Saline to the Saline Royale salt works at Arc-et-Senans. www.salins-les-bains.com

FLANKED BY THE CANAL DU CENTRELe Creusot-Montceau Centre for Nature and Industry In Saône-et-Loire, on the threshold of the Morvan and its abundant nature, two towns flourished thanks to their use of natural resources and mines in this environment with exceptional hydrological qualities: Le Creusot and Montceau-les-Mines. Mines, as well as foundries, steelworks and metal works provide the basis for industrial tourism. This is an ideal theme for the port of Montceau and the EuroVelo6 trail. Head to Le Creusot for the Mining Museum, the Château de la Verrerie that is home to the Museum of Mankind and Industry and the Pavilion of Industry. From the site of Le Creusot-Montceau Eco-museum you can venture as far as the Villa Perrusson and its garden. Further on, former industrial sites have been taken over once again by nature to provide cultural and open-air leisure activities. These include the brickworks at Ciry-le-Noble alongside the canal, set in what was once “Ceramic Valley”. www.creusotmontceautourisme.com

What a character!You could almost pass by without noticing them. Then again... “The Burgundy-Franche-Comté Towns of Character” are bursting with history and remarkable heritage that makes them worth a detour. These 43 villages come to life throughout the year, offering so many reasons to stop by. www.cites-caractere-bfc.fr

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WALK ALONG THE RIGHT PATH

Follow the cat! It’s the one that Marcel Aymé features in his stories. He knows Dole like nobody else and leads us along streets and alleys of a town that was so dear to his master along a circuit in 35 stages: the Perching Cat. Like him, we rediscover our wild instincts and head for the immense forest of Chaux that stretches from the doorstep of Dole, one of the largest deciduous forests in France! It is a wonderful playground that is waiting to be explored by cats…and walkers. All the history of this formidable natural heritage and its inhabitants is retold at the Baraques du 14; a place of exhibitions, events and daily life. Unfortunately our cat is no fan of water, and Dole is at the confluence of the Doubs and the Loue. The Île du Girard celebrates this union with an exceptional hymn to Mother Nature: 135 ha of wetlands that are listed as a National Nature Reserve. The site is home to 120 different bird species and 400 types of plant. To the north east of Dole, on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, Mont Roland and its sanctuary provide a viewpoint across the town and its landscapes. A pastoral countryside ambiance with unbeatable views of the collegiate church of Notre-Dame that is ideal for our Perching Cat!

From the cat to MarcelThe notion of overlooking beauty is perfect for Joigny, the place where Marcel Aymé was actually born. Between the banks of the Yonne and the extremely verdant Othe Plateau, the hillside vineyards of Joigny are sheltered from the north wind and nurtured by a microclimate. In total, 55 ha of vineyards stretch across the chalky soil of the commune of Joigny, including 13 ha of the famous Côte-Saint-Jacques. Just a few steps take us from vineyard to forest and a complete change of scenery

Walking with senses awakened, capturing

fragments of history as you turn a corner, discovering

a hidden garden: at their heart or a stone’s throw from

the towns lies a different way to enjoy walking and discovering the intimate

heritage of Burgundy-Franche-Comté. On foot, you

can set the pace and defi ne your own points of view. Wear comfortable shoes

and choose your décor and history as you follow quills,

winged and four-legged signposts that often guide

these urban walks.

A stone’s throw from town

I 21

and ambiance. The limestone soil here is perfect for deciduous trees, forming a dense and rich forest watered by the springs. Joigny stretches out along the River Yonne. Labelled «Town and Land of Art and History» and «Most Beautiful Detours of France», the town boasts 19 listed monuments. It is a rich natural and architectural heritage to explore via the « Petit Tour en Val d’Aubry », an 8km signposted trail.

Paschal and medieval lambs Staying in Burgundy, we go from cat to lamb for an immersion into the medieval. Depicted on the cornerstone of the nave of the great abbey church, the Paschal lamb is an emblem of the town of Cluny and also our guide along a pretty walk into the heart of Cluniac heritage. On the floor, bronze nails that bear its image dot the trail that explores the medieval town. Evoking the spirit of Cluny, “Cluny Green Walks” take to the surrounding fi elds and villages. As for the legendary “Monks’ Trail”, it links the Roman church of Saint-Martin-de-Laives at Cenves in the Rhône, passing through Cluny. Cluny is also a stage of the Way of St James.

An owl reveals Dij on!This trail starts at Dijon, capital of the (grand) Dukes and of the owl, in this case, a very worn little owl that is sculpted on the west chapel of the church of Notre-Dame. It is said that visitors should touch it with their left hand and make a wish. As well as bringing luck, this bird guides us on a 22 stage trail that travetravelling back through time along the streets of the lavish city of the Dukes of Burgundy: Porte Guillaume, the Palace of State and of the Dukes of Burgundy, Notre-Dame, the Hôtel de Vogüe, Saint-Bénigne and Saint-Philibert…It can be combined with other circuits, such as the Rousseau, Zola and Moïse loops. Deviating from the city centre, we will still need our walking shoes: the wider Dijon area boasts 320km of signposted trails that are listed in a guide that details 34 peri-urban circuits. Another way to see the city!

Giant ants with German accents A different point of view is also what the Prés-la-Rose gardens in Montbéliard offers. In this 10 ha park between the canal and the river, giant insects are waiting to jump out along the paths. It’s enough to pique your curiosity and encourage you to explore the park and the former town of the Dukes of Wurtemberg. This astonishing past has given Montbéliard its accent from across the Rhine, of which traces and wonderful stories remain. The trail following historic information signs in the Principality takes you on a journey through time via 300 signs and 50 signposted circuits. Closer to home, The Memory and Peace Trail calls to mind the great episodes of World War II on the Ecot Plateau. From the Gland Valley to the cliffs of Lomont, the trail of information signs has its very own border-crossing character and strong links with Switzerland. Flora, fauna, temples, fountains and even literature inspire other short walking circuits across the Pays de Montbéliard.

Terra Salina, salt provides a Franco-Swiss guideHarvesting white gold has infl uenced the development of trade, the architecture of the towns and the organisation of the whole land. Along the historic salt routes, Terra Salina snakes across the Doubs, the Jura and the Swiss cantons of Vaud, Neuchâtel, Fribourg and Berne. On the menu, 4 leading salt sites: the salt works of Saline Royale in Arc-et-Senans and La Grande Saline at Salins-les-Bains (both UNESCO sites), the Bex Salt Mines (CH) and the tracks at Vuiteboeuf (CH). There are also the spa towns of Yverdon-les-Bains (CH), Salins-les-Bains and Lons-le-Saunier in the Jura, as well as the UNESCO sites of La Chaux-de-Fonds/Le Locle, Berne town centre, the prehistoric alpine sites at Neuchâtel and Léman lakes, the terraced vineyards of Lavaux and the fortifi cations by Vauban in Besançon.This unusual programme makes use of an interactive map that allows you to build your own itinerary and explore the natural and historic heritage, as well as products of the terroir, savoir-faire and local identity. Everyone can select their own salt route to discover everything about this cross-border area of the Jura Mountains and its prodigious salt heritage.

I 22I 22

From one abbey to the next, follow the footsteps of the pilgrims and great travellers of yesteryear. Beyond their religious aspect, architecture, history and soul, these places are ideal for taking a break, reconnecting with yourself, your emotions, your true nature, your needs and, in particular, with those closest to you.

SHARE THE SPIRIT OF THESE PLACES

I 23

Our trail opens along the routes to Santiago de Compostela and Assisi. At the gateway to the PNR Morvan is Vézelay. The Eternal Hill and basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine (UNESCO site) are true centres of spirituality for the Christian world. Since 1993, the site has been brought to life by the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem. This religious order opens the doors to the famous basilica so that we can enjoy a special visit. We can also experience monastic life here during a retreat. But beyond the sacred building itself, Vézelay is also a wildly charming town that is listed among the “Most Beautiful Villages in France”. A place of inspiration for the builders of yesteryear, for writers and artists, but also for us today…

Staying in the Yonne, around fi fty kilometres further north, a building that makes an impression thanks to its scale and allure stretches before us at Tonnerre. A church hall measuring 90m long, 18m wide and 27m tall, this is the Hôtel-Dieu. In 1293, Marguerite of Burgundy, Countess of Tonnerre, started building this majestic work of charity. Thanks to her wealth, the builders had the means to complete its construction in only two years. The very fi rst patients arrived in 1295. Marguerite of Burgundy passed away in 1308 but her work lived on. Through the centuries, extension and development

work adapted the site into a hospital and place of charity. It accepted patients until 1982. Nowadays it is a museum, but the spirit of the site endures, just as Marguerite of Burgundy intended it to more than seven centuries ago. The golden Virgin that was commissioned by the founder shortly before her death is truly moving, as is the sculpture of the Burial of Christ from 1454, a gift from a wealthy donor. Further north still, where Burgundy rubs shoulders with Île de France, Sens provides a real gem along our spiritual journey: Saint-Etienne Cathedral. Consecrated in 1164, this was the fi rst Gothic cathedral in France; the very fi rst to boast cross-ribbed vaults rising towards the heavens, a revolutionary concept in the 12th century. The transept was built much later (1490-1515). With its rose measuring 11m in diameter, it is one of the masterpieces of the Flamboyant Gothic style. This is a place marked by the history of architecture, but also by history in general: it was here that Louis IX, known as Saint-Louis, married Marguerite of Provence on 27th May 1234. A stained-glass window recounts the visit of Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, who came to seek refuge from the anger of King Henry II in Sens during the 12th century. Beyond these great episodes of history, the majesty and light of the venue are sure to take your breath away.

The Yonne is a decidedly spiritual land. Founded in 1128 by Abbot Etienne de Toucy, a monk from Clairvaux, Reigny Abbey in Vermenton is located on the banks of the River Cure, on the lands of the Counts of Auxerre and Nevers. Prosperous throughout the Middle Ages, it was home to 300 monks. This building was scarred by the wars and the Revolution, but it has preserved its prestigious vestiges, such as the Cistercian refectory from the 14th century, a historic monument that is now a reception venue and accommodation. This is an experience from another age in a sumptuous gothic setting.

In Saône-et-Loire, our hectic 21st Century injects its spirit into the walls of a town-abbey with a prodigious past: Cluny. In 910, William of Aquitaine founded the abbey at Cluny. The Abbots Odon, Odilon and Hugues de Semur follwoed, giving the site genuine stability for nearly 200 years and, by consequence, great power across Christendom. Conflicts and the passing of time took their toll on the building and it was fi nally sold off as a national asset during the Revolution to a trader of construction materials. All that remains is part of the transept with its belfry and some capitals. The site is now home to the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Métiers and the National Stud. It is still a grandiose site that bears the soul and history of nine centuries of monastic life. Alongside the religious buildings, Cluny also takes us back to the Middle Ages, with Roman and Gothic buildings, two churches, Hôtel-Dieu hospital and the towering Tour des Fromages. A fascinating journey.

A quest for spirituality

For a short while or a few days, drop in at these exceptional spots along your tour.

I 24

Belfort from fort to fort, and not just for sport ;-) I enjoy jogging and there’s a route I really love. It’s a (small) section of the Randonnée des Forts. With the family, it also makes for a nice walk and a great history lesson for the kids. Apart from the scenery, it passes places that remind us of the major events of “Resistance in Belfort”. Defending against Prussia, Austria and even France, Belfort has built numerous forts and walls. From Belfort to Giromagny there is Fort Dorsner, Bessoncourt and the Fort Sénarmont, right up to Andelnans and Fort Ordener in Vézelois. This itinerary takes you back in time along 75km of landscape dotted with the very fi rst defensive forts in the Vosges. It’s not just for sport ;-)

Ex citing: Escape Rooms, the key to the BastionBeing locked in a room and escaping to complete a challenge in less than one hour: a brilliant concept. Especially when you add the history of the town and the the setting in which this all unfolds. This is Tour 27. A bastioned tower on the ramparts of the old town! There are two puzzles that must be solved as a group. There is Vauban’s Offi ce and Bartholdi’s Workshop. The fi rst takes you on a journey to the year of Our Lord 1700 and the second to 1880, when the famous Lion was inaugurated. The sculptor has lost his speech notes. My 6 childhood friends and I must urgently fi nd them; within 57 min. Would you be up for the challenge?

Maurice Jardot’s surprising gift At this ancient property belonging to the family of poet Léon Deubel are 150 paintings, sculptures and drawings from the 20th century: Picasso, Braque, Léger, Gris, Laurens, Masson….An easily accessible treasure trove of culture.

Caroline is 42 and married with two children; Victor (9) and Valentine (13). Originally from Lorraine, Belfort has been her adopted home for around ten years. They get along so well,

it’s hard to say who has adopted who.With a few addresses, highlights and top tips,

Caroline guides us around her town, just as she would her own friends and family.

t t

s ed

DISCOVER THE INTIMACY OF THE TOWN

www.belfort-tourisme.com

“I feel at home in Belfort”

I 25

Top table(s)!Lunch or dinner in a restaurant of the Old Town, at the foot of a château or of the Lion. Le Pot au Feu, Marcel et Suzon, Le Rond de Serviette, Au pied du Lion, Poivre et Sel, Les Capucins, Le Bar du Palais, La Société…

Th e holiday spirit: Forges PondA few minutes from the town centre, children will adore the outdoor water sports centre at this 30ha pond. Sailing, canoeing, fi shing, swimming, cycling, picnics: leisure and nature galore! Valentine is a fan of the Roselière Trail and the walkway that crosses the flooded forest.

Adventure: the citadel and freedom Children go wild for this discovery trail exploring quarries and bastions, right down to the Grand Souterrain caves at the heart of the citadel.

I 25

My diary dates; believe me,

there is always something happening

in Belfort!

FIMU: world music The whole world! The International Festival of University Music has ambiance and a change of scene. May or June, on Pentecost weekend.

Les Eurockéennes: unmissableHeadliners, pop, rock, crowds. Les Eurock’ is at Malsaucy in July.

Unmissable: Belfort Flea MarketThe fi rst Sunday of the month between March and December, Belfort old town becomes a paradise for antique hunters...and for me! Over 200 professionals and lots of treasures.

Entrevues : budding talents Short fi lms and features by up-coming directors compete during the international festival for creative young cinematographers. End November, early December.

Incredible December: it’s all whiteThe town dresses up as a mountain. Skiing, luge, skating, chalets: it’s all here. Go Christmas shopping in mittens.

Greenery, old stone, shopping, lovely events: Belfort has everything to delight. Let yourself be surprised!

I 26

PEDAL IN PERFECT FREEDOM

In Burgundy-Franche-Comté, happiness is (also) about jumping in the saddle. Pedalling over peaks and dips along the Jura Mountains, exploring the woodlands of the Morvan, riding through the rows of vineyards in Côte-d’Or and Jura, watching the world go by at the water’s edge along the towpaths. In retro fashion or on a Sunday stroll, on a sweeping itinerary or a great adventure, everyone can fi nd their own bike, their own style and their own trail. And because cycling is a universal pleasure that is best shared, the watchword here is accessibility.

In the saddle with the wind in your hair

The fi rst in France, the Greenway between Givry and Cluny (created in 1997) now links Mâcon and Chalon-sur-Saône along the Côte Chalonnaise and may be transformed into a complete loop by combining it with the Blueway that skirts the River Saône. In summer, visitors can take the old railway tunnel of Bois Clair: 1.6km, 11°C and reserved for cyclists, walkers and rollerbladers. Please note that 37.7km of Greenway along 3 sections beat the Tourisme & Handicap label: from Charnay-lès-Mâcon to Prissé (3.2km), from Cluny to the old railway station of Saint- Gengoux-le-National (27.5km) and from Saint-Gengoux-le-National to Buxy (13km). Accessibility, gastronomy, wine, heritage and sport!www.la-bourgogne-a-velo.com

EuroVelo6From the Black Sea to the Atlantic, nearly 4,000km link Constanta in Romania with Saint-Brévin-les-Pins, all along the rivers, canals and waterways. In France, EuroVelo6 covers 1,300km, including 600km in Burgundy-Franche-Comté. On the menu, the canal du Rhône au Rhin near Belfort, then the River Doubs from Montbéliard through Baume-les-Dames to Besançon, Dole and up to Verdun-sur-le-Doubs where it joins the Saône, which takes us to Chalon-sur-Saône. The trail then branches off along the canal du Centre, passing Le Creusot-Montceau before returning to the wild banks of the Loire. Along the towpaths or a just short ride away, EuroVelo6 mixes the pleasure of cycling with some truly stunning nature and heritage discoveries. An itinerary that can be « nibbled at» or devoured depending on your ability and means of transport. Cyclists, rollerbladers, walkers and people with reduced mobility, this is for everyone and the watchword of EuroVelo6 is accessibility. Maps and topography guides identify the trail’s sign-posted sections. Guides published by Michelin and Chamina provide great ideas and handy addresses.www.eurovelo6.org

I 27

FrancovélosuisseFrom Belfort to Porrentruy (CH) in Pays d’Ajoie, here you can pedal along the borderlands, with cycling trails and Greenways. From the trail itself, seven discovery loops allow for some beautiful escapades along secondary itineraries, whilst in Burgundy there is a connecting trail that joins up with EuroVelo6. A total of 40km of the Francovélosuisse and 300 km of loops can be combined at your own pace. A welcome charter labels the partner accommodation, restaurant, leisure, cultural and professional cycle tourism sites that lie along this fl at circuit, one that reveals the best of the villages it passes. It is enough to make the whole family jump into the saddle!www.belfort-tourisme.com

Voie Bressane Setting off from Chalon-sur-Saône, Voie Bressane links Burgundian Bresse with the foothills of the Jura. It is a trail that crosses Louhans, home of the famous Bresse poultry, and fl anks the River Seille that inspired the no-less famous Pôchouse fi sh stew. You and your appetite can ride along 17km of trails.www.bourgognefranchecomte.com

Tour de Bourgogne à Vélo®

Burgundy boasts a network of cycling trails and Greenways that is unique in France! The Tour de la Bourgogne à Vélo® combines 5 itineraries over nearly 800km in a programme that lasts 14 days. On the menu, the Bourgogne du Sud loop, the canal du Centre, canal du Nivernais, canal de Bourgogne and Voie des Vignes. A veritable concentration of diverse nature and heritage that includes towns, vineyards, countryside, villages and sites that are historic, cultural, religious, industrial...With the wind in your hair and your feet on the pedals, there are discoveries at every turn of the wheel. www.la-bourgogne-a-velo.com

Charles the BoldFrom Luxemburg to Charolles, passing through Burgundy-Franche-Comté, this demonstrates all the ambition of a trail that skirts the banks of the Saône and passes through Jussey, Gray and Val de Vingeanne, the wine producing hills of Dijon in Santenay and the Canal du Centre, revisiting the routes taken by the Dukes of Burgundy on their noble conquests. This itinerary is juxtaposed in part by Véloroute 50. Away from the towns, châteaux, beautiful homes and picturesque villages dot its path and offer the perfect excuse for cultural and gourmet stops, all in perfect harmony with nature and the river. www.bourgognefranchecomte.com

the Haute-Saône loopsBetween the Vosges du Sud and the Val de Saône, Haute-Saône offers a range of pretty cycling loops, 21 in total that range from 22 to 62km, offering sporty and less sporty types an infi nite variety of combinations. www.destination70.com

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Start pedalling in Belfort to enjoy an urban ride through the legs of the lion. Half-timbered houses, narrow streets and squares of pink sandstone, flower-fi lled quaysides and green spaces, from the old town to the suburbs there are over 100km of cycling itineraries. Cyclists and citizens also enjoy a direct connection with the major trails, greenways and EuroVelo6. It’s perfect for riding to neighbouring Montbéliard. This is an automotive town, but much more besides. Montbéliard and its wider area provide an important hub for cyclists, with 98km of dedicated paths across the town. From the château of the Dukes of Wurtemberg to the scientifi c gardens of Prés-la-Rose, lift your gaze from the handlebars and change your point of view. The Temple Saint-Martin, pretty coloured façades, the Aventure Peugeot Museum and even, just a short ride away, the contemporary stained-glass windows of the church of Sacré Cœur d’Audincourt designed by Fernand Léger.

A change of ambiance in Besançon, with the quays along the Doubs that were fortifi ed by Vauban, the citadel, Granvelle Palace and square, the streets and alleys that surround La Boucle and the gentle valleys that enclose the town are a delight for all kinds of cyclists. With the tramway, greenways and pedestrian streets, the town loves cycling for leisure and for sport. Besançon is also a stage of the EuroVelo6 trail.

From one capital to another, we move to Dijon and its wider area: « Le Grand Dijon à Vélo » presents its map! It’s another way to explore the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy and the ambitious International City of Gastronomy that has made a place for softer modes of transport. The Palais des Ducs, the splendid Museum of Fine-Arts, the picturesque Rue de la Chouette, the flavoursome market district: in town, half the fun of cycling is stopping off somewhere to have a drink, visit, taste.

A certain art de vivre that is cultivated in smaller towns, such as Vesoul. With the old town centre that hides a few architectural gems, the beautiful lake that stretches out at the threshold of the town, the neighbouring villages, hills and forests, the Vesoul area

provides some wonderful ideas for days out on two wheels around its 20 communes and right up to the banks of the nearby River Saône. A beautiful escape combining the town and the countryside.

This is a verdant ambiance shared by the Val de Vingeanne with, at its heart, the pretty villages of Fontaine-Française, Mirebeau-sur-Bèze, Arcelot and even Oisilly. The rivers, springs, château, Saint-Pierre de Bèze Abbey: a land of beautiful stone and wild waters that we love riding through, just like Val de Gray that flanks the Saône.

In Gray, park your bike on the quayside to fully enjoy the architectural treasures of the town that has taken over the left bank: Renaissance town hall and its roof of glazed tiles, the Saint-Pierre-Fourier basilica and tower (15th century), the Tour du Parvis, last vestige of the fortifi ed château of Gray, the pretty Italian theatre, the Carmelite chapel, the château of the Count of Provence that became the Musée Baron Martin. Because on a bike, it’s a pleasure to take your time and explore the intimate side of a region.

Continuing on this theme, head for Montbard, birthplace of the naturist Buffon. From the medieval château to the pretty park that surrounds it, passing the former stables that now house a museum, Montbard celebrates natural history and its fathers. This is a seductive stop along the TGV route from Paris to Burgundy-Franche-Comté.

PEDAL IN PERFECT FREEDOM

Do you prefer pedalling through green spaces with the wind in your

hair or with your handlebars gripped

as you race along the pretty cobbles? Bikes

are perfect for any setting, and here are a few ideas for urban AND all-terrain trails through Burgundy-

Franche-Comté. COUNTRY BIKES TOWN BIKES

I 29

Striking out on a trail into the forests, between the vineyards or up a mountain, in a leisurely or more sporty vein, all-terrain or even aboard an electric bike, to ride across the landscape and along all challenging trails, cycling offers another way of seeing and experiencing the region. Wind in your hair, at your own pace and according to your tastes, you can nibble at or devour kilometres of trails. Because of this Burgundy-Franche-Comté offers multiple dedicated trails and shared-use routes, such as in the Tonnerrois. Vineyards, the Canal de Bourgogne, springs, gardens, forests: from Tonnerre to Ancy-le-Franc you bike will carry you into the fresh air and to green spaces where you can really breathe!

Rise above it all and enjoy the Grande Traversée du Morvan trail: GTM to its friends. From Avallon in the Yonne, to Autun in Saône-et-Loire, the GTM shows mountain bikers the most beautiful trails on the massif (314.2km). Stay at the summit with the Grande Traversée du Jura trail. From Mandeure in the Doubs, to Culoz in the Ain, the GTJ boasts 425km of trails that are especially devoted to mountain bikers along the spine of the Jura Massif. Here you will cross, most notably, the Jura Monts Rivières area. With the Champagnole plateau, the forest of Haute-Joux, the lanscapes and rivers of Foncine, the medieval heritage and pastures of Nozeroy, this provides an astonishing concentration of what the massif has to offer.

Changing gear for guaranteed thrills takes us to Métabief. At the foot of Mont d’Or, this resort is a mountain biking hot-spot: downhill, free-ride and endure trails. Spectacular!

Still with sporty cycling, but this time on the roads, we head to the Ballons des Vosges. Servance and Alsace Ballons, Belfahy and Planche-des-Belles-Filles: these are names that are enough to give bike lovers goosebumps. These mid-mountain hills are stages on the legendary Tour de France that can be emulated. Staying on the Vosges du Sud Massif we get our breath back. The aptly named Plateau of 1000 Etangs, its moorlands, ponds and heather also seduce lovers of travelling on two wheels (mountain and road bikes). This is a sumptuous yet fragile habitat that demands visitors respect the signposts.

A radical change of ambiance takes us down to the Voie des Vignes trail. This route is dedicated to lovers of bikes and bottles and wine! From Beaune to Santenay (23.5km) and from Santenay to Nolay (13.5km), this cycling route snakes along the vineyard trails. A road book and a list of wine cellars is required to discover the prestiguous appellations, elevating the humble bike into a true art de vivre.

COUNTRY BIKES

« Ville et Territoire Vélotouristique » label: Belfort, Vesoul and its wider area.

I 30

Fantasy forests fi lled with winding paths of pink sandstone, lakes and

wild moorland covered in heather, fairy tale

châteaux that watch over villages where fountains

and washhouses still bubble away with all the effervescence of

yesteryear: this is Haute- Saône. With discretion

and even humility, it maintains all the charm and mystery of its past.

A land of beautiful traditions and legends.

www.destination70.com

Once upon a time in

Vos ges du Sud

EXPLORE A LITTLE-KNOWN LAND

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Passavant-la-Rochère’s glassblowersA tall chimney emerges from a stretch of wood and pink sandstone buildings. In this glassworks, one of the oldest in France still in operation, glass has been blown and worked since 1475. Tableware and decorative items made with a clever combination of ancient traditions and high design, La Rochère’s creations are timeless. Workshops, a 17th century glass roofed hall, galleries and gardens: La Rochère provides an astonishing journey back in time into the art of glass here in the Vosges of the South. This company boasts the Living Heritage label. www.larochere.com

Lux euil-les-BainsFlashes of pastel in the deepest shades and the pink sandstone that colours the Renaissance facades of Luxeuil-les-Bains. The town sprung to life from the benefi cial source discovered in Antiquity. It prospered around an abbey that founded in 610 by Irish monk St. Colomban, and then as a result of thermal waters that were particularly sought after from the Second Empire to the Belle Époque. Among other treasures from this rich period, the stone and lace heritage stand out. Set between Bruges and Milan, Luxeuil was inspired by floral motifs and specialised in complex lacework. Lovers of fashion during the XIX Century exported the savoir-faire of Luxeuil throughout Europe, with Empress Eugenie at their head. The Conservatoire of Lace in Luxeuil is housed within the abbey (visits and courses).www.luxeuil.fr

Vesoul, (really) must be seenBrel’s lyrics provide the soundtrack to Vesoul. You could maybe forget the amazing charm of the old town centre, the museum that houses the exceptional collection of the works of Jean-Léon Gérôme, orientalist painter and spearhead of the Realist movement whose pieces are popular across the globe. But Vesoul is also home to the famous Sainte-Catherine event that has attracted crowds since the Middle Ages and the International Festival of Asian Cinema; a reference point for the genre.www.vesoul.fr

Th e cherry; a scarlet gemIn Fougerolles, cherry growing and the production of eau-de-vie are an institution. The Eco-museum in the middle of the orchards tells visitors about kirsch and the people who have devoted their lives to it. The contemporary displays contrast with the building itself, an old distillery. The cherry saga continues to this day and, with it, the famous Griottines© from Maison Peureux. Yet another local institution!Ecomusée du Pays de la cerisewww.luxeuil.fr

Musique & Mémoire : pink sandstone on the baroque stageEvery summer, baroque music fi nds its ideal home within the churches, chapels and temporary stages of the Région des Mille Etangs. This is the Music & Memory Festival.www.musetmemoire.com

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THE CAVALIER SPIRITOn the peaceful banks of a mountain lake, crossing rivers and passing through woodland trails, Burgundy-Franche-Comté jumps into the saddle.

SET OFF ON AN ADVENTURE

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Burgundy-Franche-Comté goes equestrian to satisfy your desire to travel along the Grand 8, Grande Traversée du Jura or the Route Européenne d’Artagnan trails... Swap saddle for carriage on a gentle trip aboard a Roulotte caravan that exudes a nomadic and bohemian charm. This can be enjoyed with family and friends, as a friendly Comtois horse sets the pace. Its Auxois counterpart boasts the same allure, stylish and impressively large. These are two equestrian icons that are bred at the national studs in Besançon and Cluny, which reveal a history and noble traditions. Downsizing allows us to enjoy another way of getting around: taking smaller steps with a pack donkey in the Jura Mountains, the Châtillonnais, Haute-Saône or even Saône-et-Loire. Here, your companion will take care of the luggage and its friendly disposition will make your trip a delight.

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GO BACK THROUGH TIME

One big open-air history bookFROM VERCINGÉTORIX TO THE YÉ-YÉ PERIOD, BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ HAS ALWAYS RACED FORWARD. STEP INSIDE THIS PRODIGIOUS BOOK OF HISTORY – BOTH MAJOR AND MINOR – AND ENJOY THE EXPERIENCE IN 4D WITH COLETTE, A HYPERACTIVE 69 YEAR OLD, AND HER GRANDCHILDREN FRANÇOIS, 9, AND VIOLETTE, 10.

“The Gauls lived more than 2000 years ago. Have you read Astérix? Well, imagine a village a bit like his, but set on a hill here in the Morvan. The ruins, museum and archaeological digs show us what happened here. Let’s go on a journey into Antiquity. It’s the Stone Age. In this Gaul town surrounded by high walls live the Aedui people. This village is their capital. It’s an important place, because it was here that Vercingétorix was proclaimed chief of the coalition of Gauls in 52 B.C. - Granny, what was the coalition?- It was an alliance my dear. That means they came together to fi ght their enemies.- Those enemies where the Romans and Julius Caesar, isn’t that right Granny? Like in Astérix!Exactly, François, it was the Romans. And the Aedui village was Bibracte. Around twenty years before the birth of Christ, Bibracte was home to between 5,000 and 10,000 people. They built houses and buildings of earth and wood, and even some out of stone. At this time, the oppidum (that was the name for a fortifi ed town) was a very dynamic place. There were lots of artisans and workshops. They traded and exchanged goods. Like Italian wine, for instance! Can you imagine how long it took to transport it here? It was a very lively spot. Then, little by little, the town started to empty. The Aedui decided to change their capital. In the 1st century, they arrived at Augustodunum. Nowadays, this is our neighbouring town of Autun. Before we join the Aedui at Autun, let’s see how they used to cook in Bibracte! I’ve booked a cookery class and tasting for a real Gaul meal.- Granny, do you think we can make some barley beer for Daddy?

The Great BattleI’m not sure about that my dears, but we can ask for the recipe! Before that, let’s head into the Côte-d’Or, to the MuséoParc Alésia, and you can tell Daddy how you were at the Battle of Alésia! This event changed the course of history. It is now 52 B.C. and you’ll remember that Vercingétorix has been proclaimed chief of the Gauls in Bibracte. Well, this is where he faced Caesar. We are standing on the fi eld where this famous battle took place. Caesar commanded 10 legions. A legion was made up of 4000 men. François, my dear, you do the sum please. Across the battlefi eld were “only” 80,000 brave Gallic soldiers. The fi ghting was terrible. Vercingétorix lost the Gallic Wars and surrendered his arms at the feet of Caesar. That is what the actors in costume and armament are showing us. Look at that sword fi ghting! Let’s also go and see the ruins of the Gallo-Roman town, the theatre, the temple and the sanctuary, and then the Interpretation Centre. From the terrace, you get an incredible view of the battlefi eld. - Granny, do you think the Aedui came from Bibracte to fi ght here?

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From Augustodunum to AutunProbably Violette. Besides, I think we should join them in Augustodunum. Remember, that was their new capital and, in Latin, the name means Fortress of Augustus. Today, it is Autun. At the time, you had to defend against invaders. You can see the fortifi cations: a 6km ring with towers. Here there are ruins of a Roman theatre, one of the biggest in the Roman Empire, which seated 20,000. It’s like a football stadium! The town was wealthy and important, and the constructions like the Saint-André and Arroux doorways, Couhard’s pyramid and the mysterious temple of Janus are really impressive. We can carry on walking through the town, but we change periods. Here we are travel to the Middle Ages, at Saint-Lazare Cathedral. It was built in 1120 and is a really beautiful Roman church in the Cluniac style.- It’s immense Granny! How did they do it? They had no cranes, so it must have taken absolutely ages. Time hasn’t always had the same value as it does nowadays, when everything is urgent and in a rush. Then, time wasn’t so important; or rather it had a different value. Besides, there’s a town that specialises in measuring time: Besançon. It’s the next stage of our trip into the great history book of Burgundy-Franche-Comté.

The era of time Let’s take the time to listen to the clock ticking…. That’s the heart of Besançon. It’s the sound of millions of mechanisms made here since 1793, thanks to a certain Laurent Mégevand, a Swiss watch dealer who decided to set up his workshop here. At the end of the 19th century there were 400 workshops and 700 clock makers. Besançon became the French watch capital. A clock making school was built here, as well as an observatory and an astronomical clock at Saint-Jean Cathedral. Look at all the cogs! They mark the hour, date and season in 20 locations across the globe. - But how does a clock work exactly? And why is a minute 60 seconds and not 59 or 62? - You’ve got me there, I admit. I suggest we head for the Museum of Time to fi nd the answers to your questions, young man.

Under the lion’s clawsIf mechanics interests you, I think you will love the Aventure Peugeot Museum. For this famous lion that still roars on and under the bonnet of your Grandpa’s car, everything began on 1810 with a saw blade! - It’s a long way from the racing cars of Dakar!- It’s exactly this history that the museum teaches us about. From tools to race cars, including coffee grinders, velocipedes, the beautiful cars of the golden years and the convertibles with shining chrome hubcaps; it’s a real journey through time. - Granny, I’d really like one of those. Green, convertible and shiny. - Thats a Peugot 203 cabriolet from 1957 my dear. And it certianly is splendid. The 1960s were a great time…

N6 Revival The Nationale 6, the holiday highway. At the time we drove some magical machines. - How do you mean?I mean that we used to drive and show off some really beautiful cars, my dears. In between Paris and the Côte d’Azur, people would stop off at the Belair service station. It’s a legendary spot that is open once more and we’re going to stop there. There’s a super collection of cars from the 50s to the 70s in an incredible setting. They even have rock concerts. Let’s hit the road!

Collecting vegetables and cooking them over a wood fi re. Spinning and weaving wool, collecting wood and water, writing with a quill, tasting a strawberry, smelling a freshly picked sage leaf, grooming a horse, milking a cow and then, when it’s time for a break, playing hopscotch, croquet, hoola-hoops: that is the life of Zélie, a small girl from another century. A simple and authentic life that children from our own noisy and hectic 21th century can explore on a 5-day course in the exceptional setting of the Musée des Maisons Comtoises.

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CHANGE YOUR POINT OF VIEW

REBELS & RÉSISTANCE

Burgundy-Franche-Comté always stirred strong passions among the great fi gures of this world. Its geographical location on a major border, its natural resources and many advantages have been coveted and

fought over. The great pages of French history are strewn with episodes that

unfolded right here. At times courted and appeased, at others despised, shamed

and pilloried, the character of the people of Burgundy and Franche-Comté has been forged on this complex geopolitical chess board. Rebellious, independent, resistant,

determined, shrewd, daring. All these traits defi ne the region, and its people,

to this day.

THE ABOLITION OF SLAVERY ROUTEThe daring, determination and obstinacy of the local people have left their mark on the region and on the great stories of heroic acts that have shaken all humanity. This is the basis for the Abolition of Slavery Route that grew from Champagney (Haute-Saône): the House of Negritude and Human Rights, established by L. S. Senghor, tells how the inhabitants of this tiny commune solemnly condemned slavery and the exploitation of man on 19th March 1789. The second battlefi eld in this great humanitarian war is the dizzying Château de Joux in La Cluse-et-Mijoux, where Toussaint Louverture left his mark on history. Born into slavery on Santo Domingo in 1743, he became Governor General and strove for Haiti’s independence. His was an early battle in a fi ght to abolish slavery that continued until his imprisonment at the Château de Joux, where he died on 7th April 1803. www.abolitions.org

THE CONTRABAND TRAILSIn Pays Horloger, the mountains and the wild waters of the Doubs form a border with Switzerland. Undeclared merchandise has always passed through this area along spectacular and dangerous trails. This is an incredible journey that features 4 itineraries, including one for mountain bikers. Between 50 and 250km long, the trails lead you to the Staircase of Death and into the Doubs and Refrain gorges. La Bricotte, Le Colporteur, L’Orlogeur and Les Gabelous will reveal what sort of smuggler you would have made. http://pays-horloger.fr

THE ABSINTHE ROUTEWhilst it was invented in Switzerland in the 18th century at Val de Travers, it was in Pontarlier that Absinthe earned its incomparable flavour and wild reputation that spans the globe. From plantations to drying rooms, from museums to growers, from distilleries to festivals and from Pontarlier to Môtiers (CH), this formidable Franco-Swiss story is told along the Absinthe Route. Follow the Green Fairy…www.routedelabsinthe.com

Rebellious, daring, beautiful BesançonA bend in the River Doubs extends a protective arm around the hill where the citadel built by Vauban more than 300 years ago perches. The town sprung up around this natural bend, bringing with it countless inner courtyards and a clever maze of staircases. From the Battant quarter to the buttresses of the citadel, the charm of this town with blue and golden façades still exudes. Bronze arrows point the way around the streets and mark out three circuits to draw inspiration from: Battant, the fortifi ed town or the upper town. But Besançon is also home to clock makers, making it the capital of time, boasting exceptional mansion houses, secret courtyards and gardens, the apothecary of the 17th century hospital, famous men and women (Hugo, Nodier, Proudhon, the Lumière Brothers, Colette…) and many themed visits offered by the tourist offi ce. Then, of course, you have the citadel. This proud edifi ce and its fortifi cations provide the blueprint of the town, revealing the envy and power games it has inspired since the beginning and the reason for its UNESCO World Heritage listing. At the heart of the citadel, museums and a zoo make this a lively place where events abound. In summer, the wild history of the site is recounted by actors. Donning wig, make-up and costume, Vauban strolls along the rampart walk and the corridors of time, taking us with him.www.besancon-tourisme.com

CITÉ DES ARTSOn the left bank of the Doubs the « Cité des Arts et de la Culture » is home to the Regional Contemporary Art Fund (FRAC). This space is the work of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and pre-sents temporary and permanent exhibitions that are often guided by themes that are important to the town. The permanent col-lections include over 500 works (paintings, photography, sculp-ture, installations, graphic arts, textiles, audio-visual, etc.) by nearly 300 international artists: Marina Abramovic, Robert Breer, Christian Boltanski, Balthasard Burkhard, Gérard Gasiorowski, Christian Marclay, Gregor Schneider, Xavier Veilhan, Gérard Col-lin-Thiébaut…It is an exhibition space, but also a place of learning, with conferences, a library, a terrace café. A vibrant venue to visit and experience.www.frac-franche-comte.fr

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UTINAM, IS UP TO THE MINUTETake advantage of a trip to Besançon town centre to discover the watchmaker Utinam. A unique place where you will fi nd watches and clocks by the brand’s designer, Philippe Lebru. Redesigned traditional Comté clocks and watches like no other, such as the famous Météorite. At the back of the shop, a workshop allows you to design and create your very own timepiece under the supervision of a clock maker.

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REDISCOVER YOUR INNER CHILD

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It’s child’s playAstounding and astonishing them,

piquing their curiosity, encouraging them to learn and understand and,

most of all, sharing it all with them. Discover the region through the eyes of a child and build everlasting memories.

This is the most precious gift we can offer our children. Whether you have

babies, juniors or teenagers, set off with them on some new adventures!

JOURNEY THROUGH TIME AT THE CHÂTEAU DE

COUCHESOnce upon a time there was a fairy tale castle and stories of knights!!

This Château belonged to Marguerite of Burgundy, a noble lady of the 13th century. In the marvellous setting of

this château and its park, children will step back into the Middle Ages. From

the dungeon to the armoury, along underground passages and into the

chapel, the life and history of the château will be revealed. Creative workshops, themed guided visits, costumes and

weapons: everything is here for you to enjoy a wonderful moment with family

and friends. Games, quizzes, puzzles: solve the mysteries of this exceptional

site with “Challenge at the Château”, a digital adventure for modern

day explorers. www.chateaudecouches.com

DELVE INTO THE MAGIC BOX AT THE TOY MUSEUM

In the heart of the forests of the high Jura, artisans of yesteryear, experts in wood turning, wood staining and childhood dreams create everything that Santa

Claus would need for his sack. Intrepid racing cars and romantic dolls, train sets,

all types of animals, games of skill and boxes fi lled with jokes. Thousands of toys

and an exceptional savoir-faire are in evidence at the Toy Museum. Nearly 2000 games and toys from across the globe are

brought together here to recount 5000 years of history. This museum was made

for children of all ages, from 0 to 110, give or take. The museum lets you learn, understand and, of course, play. Here you can test, build, draw, imagine and create

your own toys.www.musee-du-jouet.com

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OUT AND ABOUT IN PAYS HORLOGER

L’Orlogeur, Le Colporteur, La Bricote and Les Gabelous on two wheels, the four

Contraband Trails snake along the border regions of the Jura Mountains. Along these

paths, for a few hours or several days, children and their parents can relive the

wild era of the smugglers who would take on the customs offi cers in order to cross the border and ply their trade. These tracks tell

vivid stories and point the way to places of interest on the landscape. Would-be

adventurers can pick up a practical guide, a beginners guide and a road book. The

adventure is brought up to date thanks to a mobile app that also lets participants post

on social media.www.lescheminsdelacontrebande.com

Th e Puppet Th eatre In Belfort, this theatre is like no other. A place of international creativity and information for young people and adults on the fascinating subject of puppets. http://marionnette-belfort.com

FLYING AWAY TO THE POLAR REGIONS

Set off on a faraway adventure, from pole to pole, following the footsteps of

Paul-Emile Victor, adopted son of Jura. The explorer inspired the Haut-Jura that was so close to his heart to create a new

museum and meeting space based on polar themes. The ambiance is one of

pack ice, heavy snowfalls, aurora borealis, the Inuit, polar bears, penguins and arctic tern. Here we tell you all about the great scientifi c expeditions, but not just that. The Espace des Mondes Polaires also

offers explorers, researchers, writers, fi lm-makers and other contemporary artists the chance to share their knowledge of the poles and express their thoughts on the major environmental and climate challenges facing our planet. Serious science that is truly accessible to all,

including our younger visitors, thanks to fun and educational workshops fi lled with games and experiences. It might even inspire them in their choice of

career ;-) A skating rink, a restaurant and an auditorium complete a site that is

vibrant and alive all year round.www.espacesdesmondespolaires.org

MAKING THE LION ROAR

In Montbéliard, Peugeot has been making this famous motoring

lion roar since 1912. The Aventure Peugeot Museum retraces this

formidable story across 6000m2. Children aged 7-12 will love the treasure hunt book fi lled with

puzzles to enhance their visits. www.museepeugeot.com

Diary dates: just for them… A pas Contés,

Mid-February in Dijon.Idéklic,

Mid-July in Moirans-en-Montagne.Le Festival des Mômes,

Late August in Montbéliard.

Ex plore the forest of the green giants

In Argentenay, very close to Tonnerre, the forest is inhabited by strange creatures born from the imagination of Land-Artist, Alain Bresson. Monumental plant sculptures on living trees.

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TAKE THE KEYS TO THE COUNTRYSIDE

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FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE

PILGRIMS From Montbard, a trail snakes

through Fontenay National Forest along its 18km route around the

eponymous abbey. A more ambitious 84km circuit crosses the countryside

of the Auxois and the Avallonnais, linking up with the abbey at Vézelay.

ROLLING HILLS A wine region between Chablis

and Epineuil, the Tonnerrois’ trails stretch across a pretty landscape of hills and valleys overlooking the River Armançon, tempting visitors to explore the vineyards to the very

last drop.

LINKING UP THE SAÔNE AND THE DOUBS

A route among the bull fi sh and herons along the banks of the

River Saône and on the edge of the woodlands from Verdun-sur-le-

Doubs, with trails that are brimming with wonderful wildlife encounters.

FOLLOW THE SOUND OF WATER

From springs to washhouses and canal locks, around Pontailler-sur-

Saône water refreshes the picture postcard countryside

and inspires some charming trails, with routes and loops that are

accessible to all.

WALK THE DOUBS

From the towpaths, trails head off toward the cliffs that overlook Baume-les-Dames and the Doubs Valley. A bit further still, you can

explore the bucolic Cusancin Valley.

DISCOVERING THE AMAZING HISTORY OF WATER

With the course of the River Seille, the cultivated fi elds, gardens, ponds and bocage hedgerows, as well as the thick and charming forests of

oak, the Bresse Louhannaise boasts picturesque circuits through a land

that is truly alive.

MAKING THE MOST OF A WALKER’S PARADISE

From the forest of Haute-Joux to the pastures that surround the medieval village of Nozeroy, the spectacular limestone features of Mont-Noir in Jura Monts Rivières, with its raging

rivers and torrents, is home to 52 incredibly diverse and

picturesque circuits leading through this vibrant land.

HOPPING ACROSS THE FRANCO-SWISS BORDER

Here we enjoy crossing the line. Boundary markers dot this wonderfully natural countryside

around Pontarlier. Woodland meadows, 360° views, mountain streams, crystal clear lakes and

deep forests, between Mont d’Or and Larmont lies a walker’s paradise.

THE KEYS TO THE COUNTRYSIDE

Travel away from the banks of the Petite Saône and cross the

woodlands until you discover the mystery of Cherlieu Abbey. Around Jussey, a Town of Character in Val

de Saône, visitors need no excuse to set out for a walk.

WONDERFUL IDEAS FOR

TRIPS OUT INTO

NATUREIN BURGUNDY-

FRANCHE-COMTÉ

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EXPERIMENT THE SAVOIR-FAIRE

IT’S MADE JUST FOR YOU!

A region is a landscape, a climate, a heritage and a history…or a number

of histories. But a region is, above all, the men and women who have

known how to make the most of its advantages and overcome its challenges to develop the savoir-faire that has forged its identity. A savoir-faire that has benefi ted

science and knowledge, taking us through the ages and creating the

great innovations of our vibrant 21th century. Start the machinery

and sharpen the tools of Burgundy-Franche-Comté to discover just a bit

of this prodigious savoir-faire.

Blue legs, white feathers and a scarlet crest, Bresse chickens are a patriotic hymn in their own right, as well as an exceptional ingredient. Bred from the Gauloise Blanche de Bresse race, it must adhere to very specifi c breeding conditions to earn its title and to wear the label that sets it apart from other poultry available on the market stalls. It shares this noble origin with Bresse Poulard, Turkey and Capon. Four birds with the authentic character of Bresse that are celebrated with great fanfare in Louhans during breeders’ fetes and fairs.

Focus on Bresse In the prestigious setting of the old château of the Counts of Thiard, built in the 17th century, the Eco-museum of Burgundian Bresse forms a formidable archive of the local area. The memories of an entire land are presented here: natural habitats, history, savoir-faire, arts, popular traditions and architecture, heritage is brought to life through permanent and temporary exhibitions. Here you will fi nd a microcosm of this land between the Jura and Chalonnais mountains and the River Saône. A land of dairy farming and polyculture studded with ponds and bocage hedgerows.www.ecomusee-bresse71.fr

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Xavier Pauchard was an artisan boilermaker from Morvan. He established his workshop in 1905 in Autun and registered the Tolix brand in 1930. Ever since, the destiny of his stamped metal furniture, including his famous Chair A, has boomed. It adorned the cruise liner Normandie, formed part of the collections of the Vitra Design Museum, MoMA and the Centre Pompidou and provided its timeless sleek lines and has comfort to any number of home interiors. www.autun-tourisme.com

Stone tributesA few minutes from Besançon, the Maisons Comtoises open-air museum is set in a 15 ha landscaped park, featuring around thirty authentic buildings. Tributes made of stone, wood and savoir-faire, they tell the story of the

area, the climate and the life of people from this land. A Tuyé farmhouse, a wine grower’s home or half-timbered house, a traditional fruit farm, apiary, bakery, workshop, shepherd’s hut or grain store: a 4D museum that is 100% sustainable hosts a multitude of activities. Gardens, animals, workshops, fairs, exhibitions, concerts, tastings: there is always something going on! www.maisonscomtoises.org

Industrial prideForges, mines, factories: Le Creusot- Montceau area was built around its natural resources and countless industries established there. These activities have shaped the landscape and determined the savoir-faire and the character of the local people. The museum at the Blanzy mine, the Château de la Verrerie, the Museum of Man and of Industry, the Pavillion of Industry, Ceramic Valley with the Villa Perrusson d’Ecuisses, the Ciry-le-Noble brickworks, the mining towns and the Chavannes washhouse at Montceau, the mining valley and the drop hammer at Le Creusot: an astonishing heritage that is more alive and inspiring than ever before. www.creusot-montceau

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Fort ComtéIn 1966, Marcel Petite, a cheese maturer, discovered an old military fort. The building dated from 1880 and stood between Métabief and Malbuisson where it served to defend the Swiss border. Nowadays it is a jewel of Comtois gastronomy, which it also defends: in the cool darkness of this cathedral of rock, more than 100,000 wheels of Comté develop their characteristic flavours under the expert guidance of cheese makers. A very complex savoir-faire of which you can learn some of the secrets during visits and tastings guided by one of the master maturers of the establishment. Fort Saint Antoine.www.comte-petite.com

When authenticity is a luxury Sampling the Grands Cru wines of Comté and smoked meats in the very heart of the massif where they are produced is what La Petite Echelle offers. We are in Rochejean, a few kilometres from the summit of Mont d’Or. The Swiss border is barely 350 metres from this picturesque Alpine chalet perched 1,148 metres up, providing accommodation and dining in an exceptional and authentic natural setting. On the terrace or in the dining room that is decorated in wood, mature Comté and dried Morteau sausage take on a very particular flavour. Unforgettable. www.hebergement-groupe-massif-jura.com

Burgundy-Franche-Comté boasts nearly 180 quintessential gastronomic products for you to try. In just a few clicks, as a preview of the flavoursome specialities you will sample, discover the star products on the web site of the Comité Gastronomie et Promotion des Produits Régionaux. Producers, recipes, restaurants and shops.https://saveursdenosterroirs.org

EXPERIMENT THE SAVOIR-FAIRE

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The marvellous cherryAt the foot of the Vosges Massif, Fougerolles is decidedly the capital of kirsch and the cherry. This is the result of a blend of three ingredients: water, earth and fi re. Water from the countless streams that bubble along and feed the orchards. Earth that boasts a very specifi c soil of sandstone that is perfect for these orchards. Finally, fi re, which is fed by wood from the omnipresent forests of the region, heating the stills. The savoir-faire of the farm workers and distillers is allied to these natural resources and, through tending the orchards and distilling eau-de-vie, they have grown the reputation of Fougerolles kirsch. Located in a distillery at the heart of a conservation orchard, the Eco-museum of the Pays de la Cerise screens a fi lm about this great speciality. A handful of producers carry on this tradition of creating eau-de-vie and other inspired specialities, such as the famous Griottines of Maison Peureux.www.musees-des-techniques.org

Mountains of workshopsWhat do diamonds, pipes, enamel, spectacles and wooden toys have in common? The Haut-Jura!Its wild waterways (providing energy), its high forests (a precious resource of primary materials and wood to fi re the kilns), and, especially, the formidable savoir-faire of its artisans and growers. In times past the locals here would be unable to work the fi elds for many months at a time due to the snow. To occupy their time and earn some money they would moonlight, very often as a family, working for the manufacturer of the area. Cutting, polishing, assembling, working with wood, stone or metal: the little hands of the Jura Mountains have carried the reputation of the massif far and wide.Therefore, to fi nd the origin of cutting diamonds and other precious stones, a speciality of the Jura’s lapidaries, it is necessary to travel to neighbouring Switzerland. Swiss clock makers and jewellers found assistance at the very best workshops of Haut-Jura. These same clock makers also needed the enamel for their watch and clock faces, which came from near Morez. Morez is where spectacles, or rather the industrialisation of this product, were born and became a star of this valley. In 1796 a certain Pierre-Hyacinthe Cazeaux, a nailer by trade, had the genius idea of bending a nail to create spectacles. Nowadays a school, a museum and many businesses carry on this visionary idea. As for wooden pipes and toys, they were born from wood turning. In the Middle Ages, Saint-Claude was a major pilgrimage site thanks to its abbey. Locals would trade in all manner of devotional items that they turned and sculpted themselves out of wood, boxwood and horn. With medieval prayer and rosary beads at the famous forest workshops of Rosy la Vache or Paf la Girafe, the savoir-faire of Haut-Jura continues to draw crowds.www.haut-jura.com • www.saint-claude-haut-jura.com

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Destination 70www.destination70.comView map F2

Grand Belfort - Communauté d’agglomérationwww.agglo-belfort.comwww.belfort-tourisme.comView map F2

Conseil Départemental de Belfortwww.territoiredebelfort.frView map F2

PETR du Pays Horlogerwww.pays-horloger.comView map F3

PETR Val de Saône Vingeannewww.vdsv.frView map D3-E3

Voies Navigables de France Direction Territoriale Rhône-Saônewww.vnf.fr

CRTF Bourgogne-Franche-Comté

Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Jurawww.parc-haut-jura.frView map E4-F4-E5

EPCC Saline Royale d’Arc-et-Senanswww.terrasalina.euwww.salineroyale.comView map E3

Parc Naturel Régional du Morvanwww.parcdumorvan.orgView map B3-C3-C4

Offi ce de tourisme de Besançonwww.besancon-tourisme.comView map E3

Offi ce de tourisme du Grand Dijonwww.destinationdijon.comView map D3

Offi ce de tourisme du Grand Chalonwww.achalon.comView map D4

Offi ce de tourisme de Baume-les-Dames et Pays Baumoiswww.ot-paysbaumois.frView map F3

Offi ce de tourisme du Pays de la Bresse Bourguignonnewww.bresse-bourguignonne.comView map D4

Offi ce de tourisme de Cluny et du Clunisoiswww.cluny-tourisme.comView map D4

Creusot-Montceau Tourismewww.creusotmontceautourisme.comView map D4

Offi ce de tourisme du Pays de Dolewww.tourisme-paysdedole.frView map E3

Offi ce de tourisme de Joignywww.joigny-tourisme.comView map B2

Offi ce de tourisme Jura Monts Rivièreswww.juramontsrivieres.frView map E4

Offi ce de tourisme de Mâconwww.macon-tourism.comView map D5

Offi ce du tourisme du Montbardoiswww.ot-montbard.frView map C2

Offi ce de tourisme du Pays de Montbéliardwww.paysdemontbeliard-tourisme.comView map F2

Offi ce de tourisme de Pontarlierwww.pontarlier.orgView map F3-F4

Offi ce de tourisme du Tonnerrois en Bourgognewww.tonnerrois.frView map B2

Offi ce de tourisme Saône Doubs Bressewww.tourisme-verdun-en-bourgogne.comView map D4

Offi ce de tourisme Val de Graywww.cc-valdegray.frView map E3

Offi ce de tourisme des Hauts du Val de Saône / Jussey Tourismewww.jussey-tourisme.comView map E2

CRTE Bourgognewww.tourismequestre-bourgogne.com

Crown Blue Line - Le Boatwww.leboat.fr

France Passion Plaisance - Les Canalouswww.canalous-plaisance.frView map C4

Locaboat Holidayswww.locaboat.comView map B2

Nicolswww.nicols.com

Solidarité Doubs Handicapwww.doubsplaisance.comView map E3

Camping de l’étang des Forgeswww.camping-belfort.com View map F2

Abbaye de Reignywww.abbayedereigny.comView map B2

Basilique et Colline de Vézelaywww.vezelaytourisme.comView map B2

Belfort Echecswww.belfort-echecs.orgView map F2

Bibractewww.bibracte.frView map C4

Château d’Ancy-le-Francwww.chateau-ancy.comView map C2

Château de Coucheswww.chateaudecouches.comView map D4

Château de Pierre de Bressewww.ecomusee-bresse71.frView map D4

Cités de caractère de Bourgogne-Franche-Comtéwww.cites-caractere-bfc.fr

Association des Châteaux de Bourgogne-Franche-Comtéchateauxdebourgognefranchecomte.com

Ecomusée du Pays de la Cerisewww.musees-des-techniques.orgView map F2 Espace des Mondes Polaireswww.espacedesmondespolaires.orgView map E4

Festival Musique et Mémoirewww.musetmemoire.comView map F2

Fort Saint-Antoinewww.comte-petite.comView map F4

FRAC de Franche-Comtéwww.frac-franche-comte.frView map E3

Les amis de l’Hôtel Dieu de Tonnerrewww.amisdelhoteldieu.frView map B2

Lion et Musées de Belfortwww.belfort-tourisme.comView map F2

Maison du Parc du Haut-Jurawww.parc-haut-jura.frView map E4

Offi ce de Tourisme de Belfortwww.belfort-tourisme.comView map F2

Musée de l’Aventure Peugeotwww.museepeugeot.comView map F2

Musée des Maisons Comtoiseswww.maisons-comtoises.orgView map F3

Musée du Jouetwww.musee-du-jouet.comView map E4

Offi ce de tourisme de Luxeuil-les-Bains / Vosges du Sudwww.luxeuil.frView map F2

Offi ce de tourisme de Salins-les-Bainswww.salins-les-bains.comView map E3

Offi ce de tourisme de Sens et du Sénonaiswww.tourisme-sens.comView map B1

Offi ce de tourisme du Grand Autunoiswww.autun-tourisme.comView map C3-C4

Offi ce de tourisme du Haut-Jura Saint-Claudewww.saint-claude-haut-jura.comView map E4-E5

Offi ce de tourisme du Haut-Jura Morezwww.haut-jura.comView map E4

Pays de Vesoulwww.vesoul.frView map E2

La Petite Echellewww.lapetiteechelle.comView map F4

Route de l’Abolition de l’Esclavage www.maisondelanegritude.frView map F2

Route de l’Absinthewww.routedelabsinthe.com

Verrerie Cristallerie de la Rochèrewww.larochere.comView map E2

Vintage Belairwww.vintagebelair.comView map D3

MuséoParc Alésiawww.alesia.comView map C2

Ecomusée Creusot-Montceauwww.creusotmontceautourisme.comView map D4

(DOING) BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ

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TRAVELLING TO BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉDo you feel like visiting Burgundy-Franche-Comté? It’s simple. In just one click, Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism assists you until you are here with us in person. Start packing your suitcase, we are expecting you… http://en.bourgognefranchecomte.com

• TGV / TGV RHINE-RHÔNE LINKS:Daily services from Paris (including Franco-Swiss TGV Lyria) or Lille serve the towns of: Beaune, Besançon, Belfort, Chalon-sur-Saône, Dijon, Dole, Frasne, Le Creusot, Mâcon, Montbard and Montbéliard.

• DIRECT TGV LINKS FROM CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT:- CDG Airport > Dijon or Le Creusot-Montceau-Montchanin Every evening during the week - Dijon or Le Creusot-Montceau- Montchanin > CDG Airport every morning during the week.- SNCF information: 08 92 35 35 35 or www.voyages-sncf.com

• BY TER :The extensive TER network lets visitors reach the rest of the region.

• ROAD LINKS:Motorways A6 / A31 / A77 / A36 / A39 / A40 / A404 / A42.Lausanne-Vallorbe E23 / E25

• AIR LINKS:- Dole Jura - Airport Tél. +33 (0)3 84 72 04 26 www.aeroportdolejura.com

- Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg Airport Tél. +33 (0)3 89 90 31 11 www.euroairport.com

- Lyon Saint-Exupery Airport Tél. +33 (0)4 26 00 70 07www.lyon.aeroport.fr

- Geneva AirportTél. +0041 227 177 111www.gva.ch

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BOURGOGNE-FRANCHE-COMTÉ

Bourgogne-Franche-Comtéhttp://en.bourgognefranchecomte.com