ITALY: Toscana

1

STAFF TRAINING

When Americans imagine the Italian countryside, it is often the Tuscan landscape that springs into view. Forti�ed medieval towns crown hilltops, presiding over sun-bathed, patchwork hillsides adorned with vineyards, olive grows, and other crops. Firenze (Florence) and Siena are among Italy’s most visited cities, and the entire region enjoys a rich artistic lineage populated by luminary �gures like Leonardo da Vinci, Donatello, and Dante Alighieri. The cathedrals of Firenze and Siena are monumental works of art, and the Leaning Tower of Pisa is recognizable even by schoolchildren. Toscana’s most famous wine, Chianti, is equally well known among wine drinkers, but praise for its quality is more likely parsimonious. In the 1960s, Chianti became the Italian red for Americans, but its character was often dilute, saddling the wine with an unremarkable reputation. Today, things have changed: investment in both vineyard and winery, coupled with newfound ambition and respect for tradition, has returned Sangiovese—the principal variety in Chianti wines—to its place among the noble grapes of the world.

Chianti

The Region

2

Mountains de�ne one-quarter of the Tuscan landscape, and hills account for a further two-thirds of

the region. Less than 10% of the landscape is �at. The cooler interior hillsides create prized vineyard

land for Sangiovese, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the warmer temperatures

along the coast.

Toscana lies on Italy’s western

coastline between Lazio and Liguria.

In some of the lowest areas of

Toscana, summertime temperatures

can become drastically hot. As one

travels inland toward the

snowcapped Apennine Mountains,

elevation moderates the climate.

CLIMATE MEDITERRANEAN

characterized by mild, rainy

winters and warmer, dry

summers.

Sangiovese

33

Sangiovese is Italy’s most planted wine grape and

the signature variety of Toscana. Legend suggests

that local monks christened the grape Sanguis

Jovis, “the blood of Jupiter”, and the name

“Sangiogheto” appears in a treatise on Tuscan

viticulture in the year 1600. Today, Sangiovese

goes by many names in Toscana—Brunello,

Morellino, Prugnolo Gentile, Sangioveto—and

there is an equally wide range of styles in the

resulting wines.

Sangiovese

The Taste of SangioveseClassic Sangiovese is fairly light in color,

�rm, tannic, and driven by

mouth-watering acidity. Aromas include

sour cherry, fennel, chestnut, mushroom

and thyme. In the past, winemakers used

large, old Slavonian oak botti for aging

vessels rather than smaller French

barriques. Deeper color was achieved by

blending a local red grape like Colorino

or Canaiolo Nero with Sangiovese, and

pure Sangiovese wines were extremely

rare--law in Chianti actually required

inclusion of white varieties in the blend.

Today, years of work in the vineyard have

resulted in a number of new Sangiovese clones,

some of which provide darker fruit pro�les and

more concentrated color. 100% Sangiovese

wines are common, and white grapes have been

all but eliminated in the region’s red blends.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are more

common supporting players than Colorino or

Canaiolo Nero. New French barrels are a

common site in cellars. In modern Toscana, one

can �nd dense and toasty Sangiovese, �rm and

gripping traditional styles, and everything in

between.

Chianti and Chianti Classico

4

Chianti is Toscana’s most recognizable red wine, and the oldest appellation in the region. In fact, the Chianti zone was one of the �rst wine areas to be formally delimited in Europe. The oldest document detailing the production of “Chianti wine” in the hills between Firenze and Siena dates to 1398, and in 1716 the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici legally limited the production zone to the villages of Greve, Radda, Gaiole, and Castellina. Today, these four villages form the core of the “Classico” zone—the historic heartland of Chianti. In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli famously transcribed the Chianti recipe that would be enshrined in legislation a century later, prescribing a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and a white grape, Malvasia—the latter making the wines "lighter and more readily suitable for daily consumption.”

In 1932, authorities de�ned the modern Chianti zone, expanding its borders to include areas beyond the provinces of Firenze and Siena, such as Pisa and Arezzo, and established the Classico zone as its original sector. In 1967, Chianti gained Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in Italy’s new appellation system, and the wine’s popularity as an export led many producers to emphasize quantity over quality. Furthermore, the DOC rules set Ricasoli’s formula in stone, and white grapes became a mandatory ingredient alongside Sangiovese until the mid-1990s. During this period, most Chianti was sold cheaply in a straw-covered bottle known as the �asco. The term �t.

SUB APPELATIONS OF CHIANTIChianti can be produced in the following geographical sub-appellations, which may appear on the label:

Senesi (Siena), Colli Fiorentini (the hills of Florence), Colline Pisane (the hills of Pisa), Colline Aretini (the hills of Arezzo), Montalbano, Montespertoli, and Ru�na.

Chianti and Chianti Classico both achieved Denominzione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) status in 1984, climbing to the highest rung on Italy’s appellation ladder. Regulations softened as many of the best producers chose to release their wines outside of the appellation system entirely, and international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon began to appear in Chianti vineyards. Some wineries incorporated a small percentage of Bordeaux grapes in the Chianti blend, while others were �nally free to produce pure Sangiovese as an appellation wine. Chianti and Chianti Classico today offer a wide palate of wines, from lighter, easy-drinking reds to serious, powerful Riserva styles, often aged in some

5

Brunello di Montalcino & Super Tuscans

Brunello di MontalcinoThe small hill of Montalcino is the top region for Sangiovese in the world. Brunello di

Montalcino wines, produced from 100% Sangiovese. The wines are full-bodied,

powerful, and long-lived. Prior to release, the wine must remain in oak for at least two

years, and it may not be released to the public for a minimum of four years. Riserva

selections are held back for an additional year. While waiting, one might consider

Rosso di Montalcino, or “baby Brunello”, a more approachable wine released after

only one year.

Other Appellations for Sangiovese-based wines in Toscana: • Carmignano• Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

• Morellino di Scansano• Montecucco Sangiovese

“The Super Tuscans”Beyond Sangiovese, the most impactful red grapes in the region are international

varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. The “Super Tuscan” movement,

launched by Tenuta San Guido’s famous “Sassicaia” bottling in 1968, established

Toscana’s coastal Bolgheri region as a world-class area for Bordeaux varieties, and

producers along the coast and throughout the region now produce Bordeaux-style

blends. Some of the best examples of Italian Syrah, meanwhile, emerge from the

small appellation of Cortona, south of Arezzo.

Although some “Super Tuscan” wines were originally produced in response to the

restrictive Chianti regulations of the time, and remain largely Sangiovese, the idea of

the “Super Tuscan” conjures up an image of a Bordeaux-style blend in most guests’

minds. Such internationalized wines are extremely useful in introducing California

wine drinkers to the wines of Italy, but they may not be popular suggestions among

those looking for traditional styles. “Super Tuscan” wines like Sassicaia and Ornellaia

will be easily recognizable to serious Cabernet fans.

Many Super-Tuscan wines are released without a DOC/DOCG appellation, to

preserve greater winemaking freedom.

6

White Grapes in ToscanaToscana is red wine country, and white wines

from the region rarely achieve the same level of

success. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the top

appellation for dry white wines, and in 1966 it

was the �rst wine in all of Italy to be awarded

DOC status. Despite this history and the beauty

of the walled medieval city of San Gimignano

itself, the wines are fairly simple: unoaked,

refreshing, slightly bitter, and often tinged with

�avors of pink grapefruit and salinity.

The most widely planted white grape in Toscana is

Trebbiano Toscano. Better known in France as the

Cognac grape Ugni Blanc, Trebbiano Toscano is

neutral, acidic and rarely inspiring as a dry white

wine. It is generally blended with the local Malvasia

grape, which adds some aromatic punch to the

wine. Together, the two grapes achieve the most

success as Vin Santo—“holy wine”—a dessert wine

produced from dried grapes throughout Toscana.

San Gimignano

What is the principal grape in Chianti wines?

What is the minimum period of oak aging required for Brunello di Montalcino?

What does “Classico” indicate for a Chianti wine?

What coastal region in Toscana produces top-quality Bordeaux-style wines?

Name one appellation for white wines in Toscana.

What is Vin Santo?

Selling Sangiovese

7

Review Questions

Toscana creates crossover appeal for red wine drinkers who are interested in approaching

Italian wines, but come from a background of appreciation for rich New World wines,

Cabernet, and Bordeaux. While Barolo may appeal to Burgundy drinkers due to its

haunting aromatic character, Brunello di Montalcino may appeal to the Bordeaux drinker,

due to its powerful, aristocratic structure and cedary, oak-in�ected character.

Classic examples of Sangiovese are great food wines, pairing artfully with the acidity of

tomato-dominated pasta dishes while providing enough body to stand up to richer beef

and pork preparations. Herbal notes in the wines support similar accents in food. Cured

meats work beautifully with lighter styles of Sangiovese. Overall, Sangiovese has a savory

pro�le, so think of savory dishes rather than those with too much fruit or sweetness.