the travel & leisure magazine
TURKEY SIZZLERSWheres hot to trot around the Turkish coast
ROCK STEADYBritains seaside resorts fight back
THRILLERSThe magic of theme parks
wina golf and spa break,a Kodak camera inour spring photocontest & morewww.tlm-magazine.co.uk
ORIENTAL PEARLChina's hidden
Golf in Dom RepLuxury spas
tlmthe travel & leisure magazine
Spring 2011 3.50
LOVE IS IN THE AIR10 of the best romantic escapes
4 in the frame winter photo competition winners6 getting to know Turkeys Mediterranean coast15 escape to Tallinn 21 lets try theme parks27 competitions
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28 uk uncovered Britains beach resorts36 off the beaten track hidden China and Tibet42 a touch of class UK spas47 in your flightbag what to take on the flight
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WIN a Z1 Push golf trolley, worth 179 67 travel update travel news70 10 of the best romantic escapes74 checking out focus on pubs with rooms + reviews78 london life royal London + London news82 out & about whats on outside London
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c o n t e n t s
EDITORIAL TEAM: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Howard Carr, JeannineWilliamson, John Law, Jane Anderson and Clare Mann Design Nick Blaxill Production June Barnard PublisherTerry Stafford
Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published quarterly by TLM Media Limited Castle Court, 41 London Road, Reigate, Surrey RH2 9RJTel: 01737 735575 Fax: 01737 735233 Email: email@example.com Printed by BGP TLM Media Limited
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TLM Media Limited is done so atits owners risk and neither TLM Media Limited nor its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage. TLM Media Limited is a completely independent
company and can hold no responsibility for the actions of outside agents. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent. Allprivate advertisers are totally responsible for their own wording within their advertisement, and TLM Media Limited can therefore take no responsibility as
to their content. Please seek legal advice and thereafter verify all the details of your purchase in writing before proceeding.Front cover photo: Lizard Island, on Australias Great Barrier Reef Lizard Island
The year is barely threemonths old, yet alreadywe have witnessed globaldisasters and tragedies on anunimaginable scale and othermomentous events. Australia,New Zealand, Japan our TVscreens have been filled withscenes of devastation almostimpossible to comprehend,while people across NorthAfrica and the Middle East havestood up against oppressiveregimes.
Such is the human spirit, theaffected areas are attempting torebuild their shatteredcommunities, through their ownresolve and with national andinternational help. And while itmay seem frivolous to bethinking about holidays at such atime, we can help to make adifference as holidaymakers, too.
Tourism dollars are thelifeblood of many destinations,and when visitors stop goingthose dollars dry up. Very oftenpeople cancel or switch holidaysin the belief that their chosendestination is affected, when inreality it can be well away fromtrouble hotspots. So beforereconsidering travel plans, do in-depth research and then makean informed decision.
On a lighter note, we hopeyou find the latest issue of tlminteresting, thought-provokingand an enjoyable read. Inside,theres a wide cross-section oftopics, and the chance to winmany fantastic prizes.
And if you are unsure of yourtravel plans, you can always visittlms website and ask the editor.
Spring 2011 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 3
the travel and leisure magazine
Peter Ellegard! Ethnic minority girls,Yangshuo, China
4 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011
in the frame ! winter photo competition results
IceonesJames and Bex take the winterhonours with their cool photos
We asked you to send in your favourite ice,snow and frost photos for our winterphotographic competition and we wereliterally snowed under with entries!
The competition was run in two parts over Januaryand February, with winners for both receiving a copyof the Insight Guide to Travel Photography, worth14.99, courtesy of Insight Guides.
The hundreds of entrieswere narrowed down to 12finalists each month, whichwere then posted on tlmsFacebook page for thepublic to vote. ForFebruarys vote, we rolledall the unsuccessfulJanuary entries togetherwith those that came infor the Februarycompetition.
And the results wereoverwhelming. Januarys winning picture was of asnowy promenade scene on Southsea seafront, inPortsmouth, taken by James Murphy, a student atPortsmouth University who is a keen amateurphotographer. Februarys vote went to Bex Saunders,another student, from Romsey in Hampshire, for heratmospheric close-up of icicles. Well done both ofthem."WIN a Kodak camera in our summer photocompetition. See page 59.
! James Murphys photo of asnowy Southsea promenade
! Bex Saunders photo of icicles
! Winter in Swaledale byCaroline Brookes-Leyland
! Form an OrderlyQueue by Alan Roberts
! Madelineand Barleyby JodieForbes
Hasan was tinkering with the engine of hislittle boat before taking us for a triparound the bay. He assured us that he onlydid this for friends. We didnt like to tellhim that it seemed everyone was a friendin Gumusluk.
In the space of just a couple of days in this idyllicvillage on the tip of the Bodrum peninsula, the staff ofone of the restaurants had taken us swimming and thelocal baker had shared yoghurt and freshly-pickedalmonds with us. Now the owner of the village antiquesshop was about to take us for a late-afternoon jaunt onhis boat.
Turkey is famous for its hospitality. It doesnt comeany warmer than in Gumusluk, which has largelyavoided the tourism trappings of Bodrum just 40minutes away.
We had intended to spend only a few days in thisvillage, where the road ends literally. The settlementsposition on the site of ancient Myndos means that devel-opment is severely restricted. Accommodation is limitedto village houses, a few apartments and a couple ofpensions.
Many of the houses and most of Gumusluks handfulof shops and restaurants are accessed directly from thebeach, which acts as the villages main thoroughfare.And with very little passing traffic save for a fewBodrum visitors to Gumusluks renowned fish restau-rants each day the beach is more country lane thanhigh street.
Our few days in Gumusluk turned into two weeks.Apart from a trip to the market in Bodrum, we rarelyventured out of the village such is its halcyon-like grip.With the garden gate of our stone cottage opening
6 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011
Turkey has soared in popularity as a holiday destination, thanks to its excellent value and therange of resorts it offers all round its coast. Howard Carr gives a guided tour
getting to know ! Turkeys Mediterranean resorts
Med to make your mouth water! The stunning beachand lagoon at Oludeniz
directly onto the beach, days began with an early-morn-ing swim. Then it was a few strides along the beach tobuy fresh bread, yoghurt and apricots for breakfast.
The rest of the day was distinctly lazy and hazy, withthe odd break for kayaking in the bay or walking overthe headland to explore meadows, cliff-top paths andremote coves. It was a rare walk when we didnt stumbleacross tiny patches of ancient mosaics in the fieldsaround the village.
We could have headed for bigger and busier resortsalong the coast. We could have swapped weed-coveredmosaics for more impressive historic sites such asEphesus. Turkeys popularity has boomed in the lastcouple of years as holidaymakers look for good valueoutside the eurozone.
But Gumusluk is proof that Turkey is big enough tocater for all types of traveller on and off the beatentrack. The country covers an area three times the size ofthe UK and has more than 2,700 miles of Aegean andMediterranean coastline.
Beach resorts are served by the four main gatewayairports at Izmir, Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya.
Spring 2011 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 7
getting to know ! Turkeys Mediterranean resorts
! Antalya yacht harbour
! Aspendos amphitheatre
izmir areaIzmir is the most northerly of the coastal gateways. Theareas biggest and best-known resort is Kusadasi, wheremass-market tourism in Turkey began in earnest.
Today its a cosmopolitan resort, with lots of shopsand a bright and busy nightlife. The main town beachcan get crowded in summer but theres a good choice ofother beaches a short distance out of the centre that arejust as sandy but offer more space.
The resort has a large range of hotels to suit all budg-ets but accommodation should be chosen carefully.While Kusadasi has done much to spruce itself up overthe last few years, some hotels remain a little jaded.
Kusadasis main advantage is its proximity toEphesus, Turkeys most famous and best-preservedancient city. The historic site is just 30 minutes from theresort.
The short transfer to Ephesus also makes Kusadasi afavourite call with cruise ships.
The areas other main resorts are Cesme, a charmingtown dominated by a 14th century castle, and Altinkum,where the large sweep of golden sand makes it popularwith families. Quieter options include Foca and Ayvalik.
At first sight, the sprawling city of Izmir appears tohave little to offer tourists mainly because of its lack ofa decent beach. But its hectic bazaar is a fun place tohaggle for Turkish souvenirs and there are some goodrestaurants along its seafront.
bodrum areaBodrum boasts a beautiful marina overlooked by aCrusader castle and backed by a warren of narrowstreets. It gets crowded in the height of summer mainly due to its clever approach to satisfying a widevariety of visitors.
A popular base for sailing holidays, the busy harbourgives the waterfront a jet-set atmosphere. Clubbers areattracted by one of the largest open-air nightclubs on theMediterranean, while families come for shopping, thecastle and the waterside cafes.
Bodrum has a fair selection of chic, boutique-stylehotels, while on the edge of town, Gumbet is a kiss-me-quick-type resort with budget accommodation and brashbars and clubs that are a big hit with the 18-30 crowd.
The 26-mile long Bodrum peninsula offers a quieteralternative among its lush countryside dotted with olivegroves and whitewashed villages. Resorts such asTurgutreis and Ortakent have developed considerablyover the last few years but still retain an authentic Turk-ish atmosphere. They offer a good balance forholidaymakers keen to avoid the big resorts but who stillwant a reasonable selection of restaurants and bars anddont wish to be too off the beaten track.
Bitez has a mature, upmarket following, while
8 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011
getting to know ! Turkeys Mediterranean resorts
gulet cruisingTraditional wooden sailing boats known asgulets are a great way of exploring tinyfishing villages and secluded coves. Most ofthe coast remains undeveloped, with manybays and beaches only accessible by water.
Trips can range from a day to a week ormore. Each vessel has its own crew, includinga cook, and usually up to eight cabins.Facilities vary from basic to luxury but mostboats have a sunbathing deck to the foreand a sitting and dining area at the back.
Potential passengers should bear in mindthat unless they are hiring the whole boat,they will be holidaying with strangers in afairly confined space. Cabins are often tiny,with little room for luggage.
Major bases for gulet cruises includeMarmaris, Bodrum, Kusadasi and Fethiye.Boats sail during the day, with plenty of timefor swimming and snorkelling, and moor ata different town or village each night.
Thecountry hasmore than2,700 miles ofAegean andMediterraneancoastline
! Explore the coast on a gulet
! Bodrun Castle
! Gumbet beach
Spring 2011 tlm ! the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 9
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Gumusluk and Yalikavak are among the quietest placeson the peninsula.
dalaman areaDalaman is the gateway to many of Turkeys most popu-lar resorts. They include the Brits favourite, Marmaris.Bustling, neon-lit and with a busy harbour, this is defi-nitely not a resort for those in search of a quiet holiday.
Nearby Icmeler is popular with families because ofits sandy beach and shallow waters. It has a wide rangeof hotels and apartments but has more of a relaxing, laid-
back atmosphere than Marmaris.Small, family-run hotels make up most of the
accommodation in Turunc, reached by a steep,winding road.
The beautiful Datca peninsula remains relativelyundiscovered despite its proximity to Marmaris.
Few tourists venture off the main coast road toexplore the pretty countryside and traditional villages.Further south, Oludeniz near the attractive town of
Fethiye boasts one of the countrys best beaches
cradled by a stunning lagoon. Most of the area immedi-ately bordering the lagoon is protected, meaning thatmost accommodation is set back from the beach.
Because development at Oludeniz is heavilyrestricted, nearby Hisaronu has grown into a lively resort.A more relaxed option for families and older couples is
Beautifully restored stone houses, full ofcha...