Time Out Pécs - 2010. march - I./1

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 3

Regulars Highlights 4Festivals, events, films and gigs

Trafik 6Pécs unlocked

My Pécs 30Musician András Lovasi waxes lyrical

Features Pécs2010 8The big one, under the spotlight

Spring Festival 10Classical, Celtic, jazz and folk sounds

Food & Drink Market delicacies 14Find the sausage of your dreams

Corso 16Upscale downtown gem

Wine of the month 20Matias chardonnay sampled

Around Town Zsolnay Museum 22Renovated, illuminated, assessed

Francophone Festival 23A fortnight of Gallic culture

Film French film night 25Baguettes and celluloid

Music & Nightlife Veronika Harcsa Quartet 26Magyar jazz sung in English

Kati Kovács & Qualitons 27Evergreen pop star with retro newbies

Performing Arts Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble 28Anniversary gala performance

ContentsMarch 2010

...here we go. Time Out, the world’s leading listings magazine, has just arrived in the European Capital of Culture. The timing is no coincidence. This year Pécs has a once-in-a-lifetime role in the cultural life of Europe. Along with Essen and Istanbul, the spotlight is falling on this atmospheric city with its rich patchwork history. Being true to the brand, and following the success of Time Out Budapest, Time Out Pécs reports on everything you will need to know about in any given month, tourists and foreign residents alike. Appearing throughout town on the first working day of the month, Time Out Pécs will be distributed free of charge at hotels and restaurants around the region, at Pécs University, as well as all in all major cultural institutes. We hope you enjoy what you read – please send your comments or queries to [email protected]. Welcome to Pécs! András Papp, Editor, Time Out Pécs

Here we go...

Spring Festival

10

Gala dance

28

Markettreats

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Jazzdiva

26

4 Time Out Pécs March 2010

MarchSat 6Félix LajkóIfjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13). 8pmGenial violinist with Antal Brasnyó on viola.

Fri 12

Made in PécsPécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 8pm Live hip-hop groups from Pécs.

Sun 14FrEE Stéphanie Blanchoud’s chanson nightTrafik (Perczel M utca 22.). 9pm. See p23.

Mon 15

Pannon Philharmonic Spring Festival concertNemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm.See p10.

Tue 16 Viva Venezia! Pécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 7.30pm.Concert by UniCum Laude singer ensemble & Sonatores Pannoniae Baroque. See p10.FrEE Tram des Balkans concertPécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 9pm.

Highlights

Wed 17 Ister concertDominikus ház (Színház tér). 7pm Irish-Scottish folk music. See p10.Francophone Film NightUránia cinema (Hungária út 19). 8pm. See p25.

Thur 18Szakcsi GenerationRohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. Top jazz. See p10.

Mezzoforte (Ice)Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10.

Sat 20 Veronika Harcsa QuartetRohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. Magyar jazz. See p26.Matt Bianco (UK)Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10.Ceux Qui Marchent Debout concertIfjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos kir ály útja 13). 9.30pm.New Orleans sounds from France. See p23.

Sun 21Marcin Dominik Gluch piano concert Müvészetek Háza(Széchenyi tér). 7pm.Chopin celebration. See p10.

Wed 24

Félix Lajkó Saturday March 6 at the Ifjúsági Ház

Nikola Parov QuartetDominikus Ház (Színház tér). 7pm.Mixed Balkan sounds from Bulgaria.Aurél Tillai EveningHotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm.Celebrating the Pécs-born composer.

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Rhoda Scott & Band (USA)Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10. Schumann nightHotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm. See p10.

Fri 19Ágota Kristóf: Je lis – French playIfjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos kir ú. 13). 7pm. See p23.Jazz Steps Band & Leroy Jones (USA)Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. See p10.


April and beyondMon Apr 5Erdődy Chamber groupPécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 8pm.

Wed Apr 7Andrea Rost: Songs of PannoniaRohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm.Soprano performs with Szilvia Bognár, Mátyás Bolya, Péter Glaser, Miklós Lukács, Balázs Szokolay Dongó and Budapest Klezmer Band.

Thur Apr 8-Sun Apr 11Festival of International Bartók and Kodály Choirs Dominikus Ház (Színház tér); Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). Various times.

Fri Apr 9Ghymes: ÁlombálomUránia Cinema (Hungária út 19). 7.30pm.World-music act launch new album.

Fri Apr 9-Sun Apr 11Fringe FestivalPécsi Est Café, Ifjúsági Ház, other venues. See p10.

Sat Apr 10-Mon May 10Ravenna Mosaic ExhibitionDóm Museum (Szent István tér).Highly acclaimed travelling exhibition displays copies of Italian mosaics.

Sun Apr 11‘Szép tavasz, szép nyár’ Csontváry Museum (Janus Pannonius utca 11). 4pm.Performance by the Mecsek Choir and the Béla Bartók Women’s Choir.

Mon Apr 12Philip Pickett & the Musicians of the Globe (UK): Shakespeare’s Musick Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm. Elizabethan hits. See p10.

Wed Apr 21-Sat Apr 24

French Gastronomy NightKorzó restaurant(Király utca 24). 8pm.

Thur 25László Herczeg ExhibitionVolksbank Gallery (Király utca 66). See p10.

Fri 26 & Mon 29‘Sörény lábbal, víg orcával’Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm.Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble gala. See p28.

Sat 27Pétanque competition48-as tér. 10am. See p23.The King’s Singers: Pater nosterPécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 8pm.Well travelled UK tenors and baritones.

Sun 28Gingalló – Ági SzalókiZenePark (Felsõmalom utca 22). 4pm.Debuting a new album of kid-friendly folk.

Mon 29Bill T Jones & Arnie Zane Dance Group (USA)Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7.30pm. See p10.

Tue 30Pawel Kowalski piano concertDominikus ház (Színház tér). 7pm.

Wed 31Richard Bona & Group (USA)Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. See p10.

Bill T Jones & Arnie Zane Dance Group Monday March 29, Nemzeti Színház

Pécs University Days Bõrgyár (Siklósi út 22).The most significant music festival of the region is organised by Pécs University and takes place in an abandoned factory near the city centre. The four-day event’s main performers are Tito & Tarantula (USA), DJ Krush (Japan), Les Touffes Krétiennes (Fr), Client (UK), the Urban Voodoo Machine (UK) and the Toasters (USA).

Bestfor dance


TrafikWhere Pécs is the star

What brought you to Pécs?Chance. I was looking for a job teaching French abroad. Out of 32 countries, there just happened to be two positions, one in Portugal, one in Pécs. I chose Pécs. I had to find it on the map first.Why Hungary?I had been here before, for the Sziget music festival in Budapest. I already had experienced life here. And how was your first experience?They nicked my rucksack with everything in it at Déli Station – passport, laptop, the works. I had to stay for an extra week and just fell in love with the place. I came for six months and I’ve been here nearly

It’s a living – concert promoter Jehan Paumero

six years. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.How did you get involved in the music scene?I started out organising concerts when I was a student in France. I was at Cognac, and set up gigs and an annual festival around the Atlan-tic coast. There are loads of people promoting gigs in France – here there weren’t. I managed to get ahead. I couldn’t do this in France.And you never felt the urge to take to the stage yourself?Of course! In fact, one of the main attractions of coming here was to learn the tango harmonica. I’m also in a band, the Psycho Mutants, and

we’ve played dates around France, Switzerland and Austria, as well as in Hungary.Tell us more about Pécs. You don’t find it too small?I’m not from a big city so I like the size of this place. I thought Budapest would be better but I like it here. There’s something in the atmosphere. It has a good energy. And what do you think about Pécs2010?It’s good and bad. For shopkeep-ers along the streets where there’s been lots of rebuilding, it hasn’t been so good. Plus Pécs has plenty of things going on anyway – they do good things here.

Pécs Scene – ‘We have lift-off’ by József HubayCelebrations on Széchenyi tér on the opening night of Pécs2010, European Capital of Culture


Near focal Széchenyi tér, on Janus Pannonius utca, a strange attraction awaits visitors: rows of padlocks hanging on two wrought-iron fences. What gives?

The unusual custom of hanging pad-locks in one particular corner of the city centre seems to have been here for decades – but nobody can say for sure why. According to one popular theory, students graduating from the nearby schools and colleges put their locker padlocks on the railings along Janus Pannonius utca as a passing-out ritual; another has it that it was couples who clicked on the first pad-locks as a sign of their eternal love, the urban equivalent of a heart carved into a tree trunk.

Only one thing is certain: the first padlock was put on by someone in the early 1980s, before being followed by literally thousands. These padlocks have different shapes and colours, some of them decorated with initials or other symbols, making them, in their own way, unique. Pécs is proud of this place of interest and tries to protect it – the wall of padlocks on Janus Pannonius utca is one of those lovely urban myths.

Meanwhile, this modest tradition became city-wide sport. More and more padlocks were fixed on railings, fences around fountains, sometimes even on the hands of statues. Now and then the city tries to remove these so-called illegal padlocks, car-rying out removal operations in as delicate a way as possible, even going so far as to offer their return to each individual owner.

Hidden Pécs Unlocking the city

Victor Vasarely was born Győző Vásárhelyi in Pécs in 1906. Until his death in Paris in 1997, he was per-haps the most important artist the city has ever produced – certainly in his own particular field of op-art, there’s no-one in Europe to hold a candle to him.

After finishing secondary school, Vasarely attended evening classes at the Medical University, but by then, art had taken primary importance in his life. He spent time at several art schools – most notably the seminal workshop run by Sándor Bortnyik – before moving to France in 1930 where he lived and worked until his death. Starting as a creative consul-tant at various advertising agencies, he later found his place as an artist.

After 1968 he started to donate artworks to the city of Pécs. The Vasarely Museum was opened in 1976 in the house where he was in Káptalan street (‘Museum Street’) – due to reopen after renovation this spring. Look out also for his colourful sculpture on the corner of Hunyadi and Magaslati utca, a modest walk from the main square or take buses Nos. 32 -35.

Local heroesVictor Vasarely

New motorway to Pécs to open this monthTwo hours from Budapest – who would have thought?

After many years of delays and broken promises, and conveniently timed to coincide with European

Capital of Culture year, the M6 motorway between Budapest and Pécs is set to open on March 31. The new link should cut the driving time from the capital by 30 minutes.

Also linking Dunaújváros with Budapest, the M6 now incorporates

four tunnels, and crosses with the M8 and M9 routes. Plans later call for the M6 motorway to link up with the M11, thus allowing easy access to the north of Hungary – but drivers shouldn’t expect this to be operation-al until 2015 at least.


Stages, screens

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This year Pécs has the honour of becoming Hungary’s first European Capital of Culture. Here’s what visitors can expect.

P aris, Bruges, Florence – and now Pécs! For the first time since the designation was con-

ceived by Melina Mercouri in the mid-1980s, a Hungarian destination – in this case a picturesque, historic one under three hours from Budapest – has been named a European Capital of Culture.

From the opening ceremony in Széchenyi tér in January to the clos-ing celebrations around this atmo-spheric melting pot at year’s end, Pécs will host some 300 events in all fields of the arts. All year round, on a day-by-day basis, the visitor will be able to enjoy performances as diverse as Vietnamese water puppet theatre, folk music from Moldova, haiku poetry from Japan and Mexican contemporary dance.

The former famous Zsolnay factory is to be transformed into a Cultural Quarter

And Pécs2010 is not just about one-off shows. The city justifiably pres-ents itself as the gateway to the Balkans – it’s a short drive to Croatia or Serbia, with a daily train service to Sarajevo. It’s also a mixed communi-ty, with six official minorities in town and enough Croats to warrant a Croat-language theatre and school.

The city is preparing with major squares


Highlights for 2010

Major eventsCircus & Street Theatre FestivalJuly 9-25Organised in partnership with the Street Theatre Centre in Marseille, due to be European Capital of Culture in 2013, this fortnight-long event takes place outdoors, with shows adapted for their setting.

Adult Puppet FestivalAugust 23-28Four prestigious venues (the Tettye Outdoor Stage, Pécs National Theatre, Bóbita Puppet Theatre and the Korona Teátrum) are among the settings for this competition and per-formance event, with guests from Vietnam, Japan, France, America and Switzerland.

Visual ArtsHungarians in BauhausAugust 15-October 15HiB draws on the rich tradition of Hungarian art-ists involved in the Bauhaus movement. From Pécs itself come names such as Ernő Forbát, Marcell Breuer and Andor Weininger, members of two key groups (the Pécs Artists’ Circle and the Pécs Bauhäuslers), who worked with inter-nationally renowned Magyars such as Sándor Bortnyik, Gyula Pap and Lászlo Moholy-Nagy. Guided city tours, family days and children’s programmes complement the main exhibition, comprising paintings, set designs, film and photographs.

MusicFishing on OrfűJune 17-19, Panoráma Campsite, OrfűFor the third year running, thousands of music fans will descend on Lake Orfű near Pécs, where nearly 100 bands will be performing on several stages at the Panoráma Campsite. Most come from around the region. Stand-up comedy, film shows and a cookery contest provide diversity.

Pécs CantatAugust 15-22Pécs Cantat harks back to a proud history as host of choir festivals. Pécs was the first city behind the Iron Curtain to stage the prestig-ious Europa Cantat festival of singers and conductors. Here, some 1,000 participants take part in half a dozen workshops over the course of a week, with a gala concert at the end.

Theatre & DanceDance MarathonApril 26-May 1The squares, streets and schools of Pécs will be the setting for this participatory event, involving dance troupes from Finland, Portugal, Slovakia and elsewhere, plus sev-eral groups from Pécs itself.

urban developments: the Pécs Conference & Concert Centre is one, while the South Transdanubian Library and Knowledge Centre are the two green-field investments being built close to the historic hub. With ceramics production also in place, the former famous Zsolnay Factory will be turned into a Cultural Quarter. Synonymous with Pécs for more than a century, Zsolnay sits on 40,000 square metres of land being transformed into a complex of com-munity spaces and cultural centres.

Káptalan utca, a street of landmark museums, is also receiving a com-plete makeover, so that attractions such as the Zsolnay, Vasarely and Csontváry museums – to name but the most famous three – will be part of one unified structure and exhibi-tion space.

For the immediate time being, visi-tors should be aware that much in the city is still under construction, with roadworks in key streets around the city centre and the main square, Széchenyi tér, will have a fence around it until early May. Many of the museums, too, have their doors closed until the spring. All should be good and ready for the summer influx of visitors.

Still, the main attraction for visitors today is the range of cultural events on offer. Although these reflect the whole spectrum of the arts, Pécs2010 is particularly strong on the visual arts, classical music, folk culture, contemporary dance and theatre. Throughout the year, the city will also play host to a series of interna-tional conferences, covering subjects as wide-ranging as metallurgy, the future of Europe and pop music.

For information on all events, see www.pecs2010.hu.

Pécs scenes Janus Pannonius utca (far left); Gypsy dancing on Széchenyi tér (top left); Nemzeti Színház (top); Zsolnay Fountain (left); blowing bubbles on Széchenyi tér (above) Best

for music

Best for art


STEPPINGoUT IN SPRINGThe Pécs Spring Festival takes place over a month at a host of venues in town. Time Out Pécs picks out the highlights.

K icking off on the national holi-day of March 15, the Pécs Spring Festival represents a

month of top-class culture at a hand-ful of venues across town.

This year, naturally, it falls under the auspices of Pécs2010, European Capital of Culture – but few events over this year will attract as many heavyweight acts. Also incorporating the fourth annual International Jazz Weekend and the three-day long Pécs Fringe Festival in April, the PSF features world stars in many fields.

Getting things underway will be the Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra, who can trace their history back to 1811. Here, under the baton of András Vass, with pianist Gábor Farkas, they will perform pieces by Erkel, Liszt and Dvorak at the Pécs National Theatre. The next evening, on March 16, a high quality of performance is guaranteed

with ‘Viva Venezia’, the music of 16th- and 17th-century Venice presented by the UniCum Laude vocal ensemble and the Sonatores Pannoniae Baroque Brass Band. The concert takes place at the Pécs Basilica.

In a eclectic selection of sounds for the first week, this will then be fol-lowed by the traditional Celtic music of Ister, an evening dedicated to Robert Schumann (born 200 years ago this June), and a performance by Polish pianist Marcin Dominik Gluch, notably of pieces by Chopin – born 200 years ago this month.

The highlight of the month is the International Jazz Weekend (March 18-20) in the main hall of the Medical Faculty. Two acts take the stage each night. Hungary’s own Szakcsi Generation (featuring the legendary Béla Lakatos Szakcsi and his two sons) provide the curtain-raiser before New Jersey’s Rhoda Scott

moves the musical programme from Gypsy jazz to blues/gospel. Iceland’s Mezzoforte headline on the Friday night – strange to think that these once fresh-faced youngsters from the mid -1980s are still going strong after three decades of instrumental funk-fusion. After a performance by the Veronika Harcsa Quartet (see p14),

Latin-flavoured UK duo Matt Bianco climax the week-

end with a few jazzy tunes and pop hits. Mark

Reilly and Mark Fisher have pared down their sound, recently releasing their first album for five years, ‘Hifi

Bossanova’. Another jazz name,

bass player Richard Bona, makes an appearance

later on in the Spring Festival, at the same Medical Faculty, on March 31. Cameroon-born Bona has played with some of the biggest names in the business and is making his second visit to Pécs in as many years.


The PSF agenda is not confined to music. On March 25 an exhibition opens of works by Pécs-born artist László Herczeg, bright, abstract pieces that will hang in the Volksbank Gallery in the Király ház on Király utca until June. There’s dance too, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble (see p28) and, from the US, Bill T Jones & the Arnie Zane Dance Ensemble, who present eclectic pieces (mainly duets) from 20 years of unconvention-al choreography.

Strange to think that fresh-faced Mezzoforte are still going strong after three decades

Bookending the month will be the three-day Fringe Festival, April 9-11, acts from the Budapest event of the same name. Gala concerts after include ‘World Stars in Pécs Series’, again featuring the Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra. Taking place in Pécs Cathedral, this show on

April 10 will be given in memorium of their founder György Licki. Don’t miss soprano Andrea Rost perform-ing Gypsy, Jewish and Hungarian folk songs, three days earlier on April 7. Musicians from Shakespeare’s

Globe Theatre, featuring the London-born exponent of English period music, Philip Pickett, bring the month to a close on April 12.

Pécs Spring Festival Mar 15-Apr 12. www.pecsitavaszifesztival.hu.

Super sounds Richard Bona (top left); Rhoda Scott (circled); Matt Bianco (above)



Food & DrinkEat & Drink around town

Bangers and lángos

Photography by József Hubay

Local market dining

Food

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R ight in the heart of town, the Central Market Hall is as essen-tial to Pécs as its mosques.

Opening at 5am, its modest bars come into good use as the last stop in a long night of partying – but by day, locals roam the rows of stalls in the middle of the enclosed space, looking for that particular type of sausage or a bag of mushrooms picked fresh nearby. Any culinary tour of Pécs starts here, revealing much about the city’s patchwork history.

Many regulars head first to the sausage stands in the back corner. This is also a handy vantage point to observe the Central Market Hall in action. While you’re watching, have a look over what’s on offer, perhaps treating yourself to a breakfast of liver sausage (májashurka) or sausage (kolbász), two slices of bread with a dod of mustard and the pickled veg-etables of your choice. Oh, and don’t for-get to throw in a couple of hot peppers (cseresznyepaprika). This typical combo should set you back Ft1,500.

The tall chap describes his spicy sausages as being so hot they would make children cry

Your hunger sated, you can browse the 100 odd stalls laid out in several rows, piled high with bright paprikas, mounds of sauerkraut and that day’s spinach. If you’re after a souvenir, paprika powder or dried hot paprika might be the answer – but these you can find in most towns in southern Hungary. As you’re in Pécs, you should try the local speciality, the famous stifolder. This sausage is the heritage of the German minority living in the region; you won’t be able to find it anywhere else in the country. It is wider and much softer than the traditional Hungarian sausage. The name derives from the old German word Stiftsfuldaer, people from the land around the Fulda Abbey. One further tip: try looking for the tall chap in the far cor-ner of the market hall, just in front of the sausage stands as his is the best on offer.

MarketresearchTo find real local delicacies you don’t need to go to a restaurant. Walk around the city’s markets and you’ll find German sausage, pork tongue with garlic and hot peppers – as Balázs Pesti reveals.

Bright delights Market delicacies include paprikas (above) and fruit picked locally (below)

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Saturday night they head directly to Vásártér, the huge open-air market that only runs on Sundays. Although produce is available here, many visit for recreation – this is the best flea market in the region. No matter what you are looking for, you’ll find it here: Brezhnev-era Hungarian vinyl, retro kitsch and boxes of puppies. Bear in mind that prices drop in direct pro-portion to the distance from the main entrance. Always haggle. Vásártér is the home of the lángos, deep-fried flat bread the size and consistency of your duvet. Hunger was made for it. Do as the Romans do, have the guy chuck on cheese and sour cream (sajtos-tejfölös), and devour.

He describes his spicy sausages as being so hot ‘they would make children cry’. Adults too, in fact, as any first-time visitor might find.

Naturally, the choice of fruit and vege-tables is seasonal – though globalisation has reached here too. Don’t be surprised to find fresh tomatoes in the off-season, arriving from abroad via the wholesale market on the outskirts of town. Local shoppers prefer to seek out quality vege-tables characterised by their imperfect, irregular shapes and, most importantly, by having dirt on them. That means they’ve been grown around here, as opposed to the imported carrots hot-housed in artificial soil.

Quality dairy products are located in one of the stalls in the northern part of the hall. Here you’ll find raw cow’s milk, goat’s milk as well as the usual processed dairy products: butter, cottage cheese, cream and cheese from the Ormánság region. Try the home-made creamy spe-ciality, házi krémes, a cake the size and shape of a brick.

If you have kitchen facilities where you are, you can buy fresh fish from the fish-monger in the northwestern corner of the hall – look out for local catfish (harcsa) and pike (csuka), main ingredient for the

celebrated pike stew loved by locals.Don’t forget to have a look at the bio

products from the certified producers, such as rosehip or apricot jams. Organic produce is all the rage in Hungary right now – justifiably, if the delicacies offered by the cheesemaker from Mozsgó are anything to go by.

To continue your culinary tour, take bus No 4 in front of the hall entrance and head to the market at Hajnóczy utca. The journey itself is an experience as you elbow for a place on the bus with locals laden down with overflowing shopping bags. Again, this market opens nice and early but beware: although its official weekday hours run until 1pm, get there before noon if you’re after the signature local food, pork tongue with garlic (fokha-gymás nyelv), a prime delicacy only avail-able at this open-air venue west of the city centre, conveniently located near the foot-ball stadium.

Whatever time you go you’ll always see groups of people from the neighbourhood hanging around and enjoying a fröccs (spritzer) and chatting the day away. Markets have a communal use – shoppers don’t just browse, buy and vanish.

Neither of these two main markets open on Sundays. After a demanding

MarketsCentral Market HallBajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 25, Mon-Fri 5am-5pm, Sat 5am-noon.

Hajnóczy utca marketMon-Fri 6am-1pm, Sat 6am-noon.

VásártérMóra Ferenc utca, Sun 5am-2pm.

Meaty treats Carnivores can enjoy salami (above) and spicy sausages (right), served with hot pepper (above right)

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The bistro part of Corso’s two-floor operation has garnered many accolades after only two years in the business. Rated as one of the top restaurants in Hungary, it is built on expecta-tion and it delivers.

The cuisine, though labelled Hungarian, draws heavily from French and Italian influences with the lat-est addition to the team, chef Gábor Kovács, taking over from Gábor Molnár, lured away to a Michelin-star restau-rant in Germany. All eyes are on Kovács as he has some rather large shoes to fill.

With a menu that is short and to the point, the focus remains on quality, not quanti-ty. Starters like the duck mine-strone with Asian herbs

Restaurant reviewCorsoK K K K K

Top spot in city centre

(Ft890) is a delectably refresh-ing soup crowned with crunchy herbs and tender duck. For even the most acute steak craving, the beef fillet with Bordeaux wine sauce and confit of vegetables (Ft3,500) is just the ticket. Alternatively the rosé duck breast with cran-berry red-wine sauce and but-tery pan roasted vegetables (Ft2,500) is a fine choice occa-sionally featured on the daily specials menu.

Desserts range from a pear tarte Bourdaloue with vanilla ice (Ft790) to a number of sweet treats on view in the vitrine by the front bar. Or opt for the French cheese plate from Hungary’s own cheese expert and importer T Nagy Tamás.

Consistently, the price-to-quality ratio is well above what you would find locally; a real standout on Pécs’s culinary scene. The waitstaff are enthu-siastic and professional, with a good knowledge of the wines on offer. Reds of Magyar prov-enance such as Bock, Gere and Takler are priced from Ft4,500 a bottle.

With a keen eye on design, Corso’s interior is simple and

tasteful. Cream leather seating is accentuated by dark lami-nate tabletops and oversized dome-lighting fixtures while a window onto kitchen is the focal point of the dining room. Opposite, picture windows face the National Theatre and adjoining square, and let in lots of natural light during busy lunchtimes.

Király utca 14 (525 198). Daily 8am-midnight.

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Food Hall

Bagolyvár Felsőhavi dűlő 6/1 (513 213/www.bagolyvarpecs.hu). Daily 11am-9.30pm. Hotel and garden restaurant with a view over Zengő hill serving global and Hungarian dishes, with speci-alities from Székely in Transylvania such as the platter with steak, veal and pork. Game is also prevalent, such as the pheasant consommé or Villányi-style wild ragout.

Café ZaccMátyás király utca 2 (222 005). Mon-Thur 9am-midnight; Fri 9am-1am; Sat 10am-1am; Sun 5pm-midnight. Friendly little four-room spot just off Jókai tér with Zlaty Bazant on draught, bar snacks, Wi-Fi and the day’s papers. Regularly changing exhibitions – art, black-and-white photography, paintings – add a touch of class.

Diós Kisvendéglő Diósi út 46 (211 518). Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. In business for more than a decade, this sunny terrace spot out towards the Zsolnay Quarter specialises in pizzas, pancakes (including chicory, blackberry and vanilla) and grilled meats. Weekdays, the good-value lunch menu comes into its own.

Fiáker Felsőmalom utca 7 (327 859). Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Eminently affordable local restaurant serving Hungarian kitchen standards, including carp, breaded chicken and beef stew. Look out for the daily menu.

Le Bistro Surányi M utca 21 (312 558). Mon-Thur 10am-midnight; Fri 10am-2am; Sat noon-2am; Sun noon-midnight. French-owned and influenced child-friendly café with a summer terrace under a striped awning. Inside are a table-football table and TV for big games.

Lemon Café Citrom utca 7 (532 848). Daily 8am-midnight. Trendy downtown spot offering breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, panini, coffees (all varieties also decaffeinated), fruit smoothies, Bitburger beers and at least 30 types of cocktail.

MaestroKlimó György út 12 (515 555/ www.maestropizza.hu). Daily 10am-10pm.Pizzeria and terrace under the Barbakan with 60 varieties of pizza in four sizes, classic Hungarian dishes, salads, cakes and desserts.

Aranykulacs Nefelejcs köz 3, Szekszárd (06 74 413 369/www.aranykulacs.hu). Daily noon-midnight. Classic, traditional restaurant offering specialist wines from the region – Takler, Sebestyén, Sárosdi – and some two dozen pálinka brandies.

oUTSIDE PÉCS

Matias BorozóBaross G utca 81, Villány (592 086). Mon-Thur noon-8pm; Fri noon-10pm; Sat 11am-10pm; Sun 9am-4pm. Recently renovated wine cellar in the green surroundings of Villány, offering labels from the winery of the same name.

oUTSIDE PÉCS

Advertising feature

Iparos KisvendéglőRákóczi út 24-26 (333 400 /www.iparoskisvendeglo.hu). Mon-Sat 11.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-4pm. Friendly restaurant offering lunch menus, Hungarian flavours and huge portions. Consommé on the house when taking a main dish; free WiFi acces.

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Bar reviewPécsi Est CaféK K K K K

Club, bar and resto in one

Pub, restaurant, live venue and sports bar, the landmark Pécsi Est Café on the ground floor of the Kereskedők Háza down-town shopping centre, is all things to all locals.

This, then, is one large-scale operation done out in a mix-ture of styles. On the walls, framed black-and-white photo-graphs of evergreen icons (Jagger, Bukowski, London Underground, CBGBs) and guitars behind glass give the impression of a Hard Rock Café; filling most of the main space by day, tables are set with red-and-white checked cloths, upon which traditional, honest Hungarian meals, mountains of pasta and ‘rock ’n’ roll dishes’ (chili, fish & chips and ‘abundant rock ’n’ roll bowls 1 & 2’) are devoured from authentically retro domestic pans of fire-red lore; and, hidden away in the back is a miniature football stadium. With three levels of terracing

in the red, white and green of the Hungarian flag, here fans group for big-screen matches beneath framed football shirts, away from the music and with easy access to a side bar and, most importantly, the toilets.

Balázs Gróf’s bright cartoon ceiling mural lightens up the corridor leading to the side bar, while the spotlight falls on the stage at the back of the main room, where domestic acts of decent renown (recent examples: Zuboly, Qualitons) get the whole space dancing twice a week at least. Record decks hide by one of two big round pillars, upon which the concert and DJ agenda is scrawled in colourful chalk. Those unmoved by Magyar pop or rock can escape to the side bar or the empty football terrace and still enjoy a drink at conversational level.

Beers (including draught domestic Soproni, Heineken, Edelweiß), wines (including

ListingsListings are chosen at the discretion of the editors. TimeOut does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Restaurants

Áfium Irgalmasok útja 2 (511 434). Mon-Sat 11am-1am; Sun 11am-midnight. Age-old cellar restaurant filled with Commie and pre-war Magyar toot where older regulars choose from an encyclopaedic menu of Magyar stews, hearty soups and, incongruously, pizzas. Good too for Yugo grilled meat favourites cevapcici and pljeskavica.

Aranykacsa Teréz utca 4 (518 860/www.aranykacsa.hu). Tue-Thur 11.30am-10pm; Fri, Sat 11.30am-midnight; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. A pub-style restaurant serving a huge range of Hungarian standards and healthier variations, goulash, roasted duck with steamed cabbage and so on. Prices very fair considering its central location. Mind the ten per-cent service charge on your bill.

Corso See p16.Dóm Étterem & Pizzeria

Király utca 3 (210 088). Daily 11am-11pm. Hungarian and Italian favourites like pork-knuckle stew and pizzas from Ft1,000 are served in a pizzeria-style restaurant with a bar at the back.

All’Elefante Jókai tér 6 (216 055/www.elefantos.hu). Mon-Thur, Sun 11.30am-11pm; Fri, Sat

Villányi chardonnay, Dúzsi Pincészet Szekszárdi Rosé, Ebner-Pécsi Cirfandli) and, most notably, pálinka brandies (50 in number, categorised by fruit flavour and quality) are otherwise swiftly served over the long and well staffed bar counter even at post-gig bar crush time. Prices are kept pleasingly reasonable (domes-tic beer Ft210-Ft350, grilled tenderloin Ft920, lunch deals during the week), thus ensur-ing a constant flow of locals of mixed age from lunchtimes on. By the evening, this can be a very busy place indeed.

All in all, this well-conceived operation serves as a bench-mark in Pécs, a professional outlet of quality for concert-goer and football fan alike.

Pécsi Est Café, Ground floor, Kereskedők Háza shopping cen-tre, Rákóczi út 46 (06 20 667 8800 mobile/www.pecsiestcafe.hu). Mon-Sat 11.30am-late. No credit cards.

Best beer varieties

Fregatt ArizonaHalf-a-dozen on draught.

Káptalan BorozóVast range of bottled types.

Murphy’sStouts and lagers (pic above).

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drawn in by the carrot cake. Look out also for the fruit teas, yoghurt smoothies and Bitburger beer. Other snacks include double-chocolate cookies and Marlenka-branded pastries. Ice-creams too.

Zöld Hungária utca 42 (no phone). Mon, Sun

6pm-2am; Tue-Sat 6pm-3am. The

green man sign outside means serious post-midnight imbibery, a regrettably easy stagger

from the Kino landmark

nightspot. Once inside, you’ll find

three cosy rooms filled with late-night chatter

and cigarette smoke, as well as carefully chosen tunes from behind the bar. Sadly closing times strictly adhered to – but ask a shit-faced regular to direct/accompany you to the Sör Bár (aka ‘Betonos’) round the corner. Everyone will follow them there.

11.30am-midnight. This Italian restaurant specialises in authentic thin-crust pizzas and sundry Med treats like risotto with cuttlefish and prawns. The atmosphere is rather old-school Magyar than Italian, with a history dating back to the 1800s. They also deliver.

Fregatt Arizona Király utca 21 (511 068/www.fregatt.hu). Daily 11am-midnight. Pub-steakhouse restaurant on the main drag with a saloon-bar theme. Thick T-bones go for Ft4,900, accompanied by a choice of six draught beers (Warsteiner, Guinness, Krusovice) or many regional wines. Twofer happy hour Tue-Thur 5-6pm.

Krúdy Vendéglő Ferenciek utca 32 (525 576, 06 30 262 8997 mobile/www.krudyvendeglo.hu). Wed-Sun 11am-11pm. Typical little local restaurant closed for renovation this winter but due to reopen in March. When it does, on offer will be duck leg in plum sauce (Ft1,360), pastas and, for afters, pancakes. Live music on Saturdays.

Kikelet Károlyi Mihály út 1 (512 900/www.hotelkikelet.hu). Daily 8am-10pm. Attached to the adjacent spa hotel, Kikelet has a solid local reputation but the hilltop vista may win out over the food. A good choice of wines complement Hungarian and continental dishes.

Korhely Pub Boltív köz 2 (534 916/www.korhelypub.hu). Daily 11.30am-midnight. Old-style eaterie down a cobbled sidestreet with a long selection of bar food and Hungarian faves. Sawdust and nut shells on the floor add rusticity; note also the funny-looking critters running around a glass tank.

Pezsgőház Szent István tér 12 (522 598/www.pezsgohaz.hu). Mon-Thur noon-3pm, 6-10pm; Fri, Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm. The classy central Champagne House occupies the vaulted cellar of the former Littke champagne factory. Quality Mediterranean and Magyar cuisine, regional wines and, naturally, champagne, are served with aplomb and at prices to match.

Tex-Mex Teréz utca 10 (215 427/www.tex-mex.hu). Tue-Sat

5-11pm. This local fave serves fajitas

quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas and

burritos at big-city prices in a no-frills brightly painted

cellar. Tasty cocktails play a

leading role too.

Cafes & bars

Blöff Színház tér 2 (06 30 997 9008 mobile). Mon-Sat 9am-1am; Sun 4pm-1am. Popular café by the National Theatre done out in drawing-room style, the bright collection of foreign football scarves in one corner courtesy the game-crazy boss. Twenty cocktails, regional wines, and draught Dreher in both colours are on offer, plus several coffee types.

Coffein Széchenyi tér 9 (06 20 522 1440 mobile). Mon-Thur, Sun 9am-11pm; Fri, Sat 9am-2am. Neat café-eaterie on the main square whose varied selection includes Illy coffee in the hot cocktails, spinach among the breakfast omelette varieties and apple amid the lemonade flavours. American hamburgers, lemon cheesecakes and king-crab salads too.

Cool Tour Café Király utca 26 (no phone/www.cooltourcafe.hu). Daily 10am-2am. Opened

in the summer of 2009, this three level-storey-plus-courtyard house contains three bohemian-style bar areas, an arty one under the roof and a beer garden. Easily the most hopping pre-midnight spot on the main drag. The Ft500 seedy-breaded sandwiches also rock.

Kanta Bár Irgalmasok útja 6 (06 30 592 5010 mobile). Mon-Fri 10am-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-midnight. A fave among older local bohemians, in an inner courtyard and signposted from the street, the smoky Kanta comprises an intimate, arty bar area and adjacent cellar music spot.

Káptalan borozó Janus Pannonius utca 8-10 (315 550). Mon-Sat 10am-2am; Sun 10am-midnight. Behind the Cathedral, known to all as ‘Papucs’ (‘slipper’ – note drawing above door), this legendary smoky wine bar unusually offers many bottled beers and stays open agreeably late. House wine simply priced at Ft100 per deciliter for white, Ft120 for red.

Murphy’s Király utca 2 (325 439/http://murphys.rubynet.net). Mon-Thur, Sun 9am-midnight; Fri, Sat 9am-2am. Focal faux pub where food (Irish steaks, pastas, house fruit soup) and booze (draught Paulaner and Guinness; age-old whiskies; Bols-sponsored cocktails) take equal importance.

Pécsi Est Café See p18.Semiramis Király utca 33 (no

phone/www.semiramispecs.hu). Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 2-8pm. The creamiest coffees in town are served at this cosy terrace spot, though locals are also

Top local standard

ÁfiumClassic cellar, classic food.

AranykacsaGoulash a go-go, fair prices.

Krúdy VendéglőDuck, soups, live music (pic).

Pezsgőház

Kikelet

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Although the Matias Winery from Pécs has only recently entered the market, wine fan-ciers can already sample some two dozen of their wines. Beside typical grape varieties of the five Hungarian wine regions, their assortment also incorporates internationally known varieties – such as bar-rel-aged chardonnay from Pécs. This wine, from a small, relatively unknown wine region in domestic terms, is made from one of the world’s major white-grape varieties, with a taste spectrum typical of barrique. All told, it’s an excit-ing pairing and a thrilling wine.

The aroma of honey-roasted seeds has the definite character of butter

The Pécs wine region is one of the smallest in Hungary, with about 700 hectares under cultivation. Until the last cou-ple of years only a few wine-makers succeeded in produc-

ing quality wine in the kind of quantities that could attract attention outside the region. Up until then, wines made by smaller producers only reached discerning custom-ers of specialised stores, but now this new winery is think-ing in terms of a much larger scale. It was founded by Dezső Matyi, responsible for more than 100 hectares of vineyards in the Villány, Pécs, Szekszárd, Badacsony and Tokaj wine regions. Another winery is planned for Ócsárd, a village on the Pécs wine route, where this Pécsi Chardonnay Barrique 2008 was aged by the barrel.

Its colour range is a sort of golden to light gold; it does not appear to be too thick, howev-er, the creamy, glyceric motion in the glass indicates that it won’t be light. The aroma of honey-roasted seeds has the definite character of butter. You can smell the barrel, but before that comes rich fruiti-ness: ripe, soft peaches with a note of Williams pears, accom-panied by the aroma of crispy

dried apple.You could bite into it but it

bites back. This wine has body and structure. This was never meant to be a light, summer evening wine. The longer age-ing is facilitated by the acidity of the wine, which is not low but still gives it character. In this way, the fruitiness is expressive, reminding you mainly of peach and apple, with a note of clover. The roasted aromas are not dominating but defi-nitely present, character-ised by toasted seeds and vanilla creaminess.

This is a full-bodied, correct chardonnay, true to the characteristics of the grape variety. It has density, buoyancy and playfulness. It is a plea-sure to taste and a plea-sure to drink.

Zoltán GyőrffyMatias Pécsi

Chardonnay Barrique 2008. Ft2,900. Hordó wine store, Széchenyi tér 17; also from Alexandra (www.alexandra.hu).

Wine of the month

Chardonnay to sink your teeth into

BOOK AD


Time offThe cultural month ahead

Photography by Lajos Kalmár

Smooth soundsTop jazz in Pécs

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The recently renovated Zsolnay Museum is the key sight on gallery-lined Káptalan utca. Aniko Fenyvesi visits this impressive local landmark.

At present the only museum open on ‘Museum Street’, Káptalan utca, as the city prepares for Pécs 2010, the Zsolnay Museum is an impressive consolation as the key renovation achieved so far for this historic year. Occupying an apartment block dating back to medieval times, it received a noteworthy sum of money to repair and expand a gallery that houses many fine pieces created at the local, world-renowned Zsolnay Ceramics facto-ry from the 1870s until World War II. Night-time illuminations add further attraction.

The museum is now considerably larg-er, filled with a more comprehensive selection of works produced through the decades as well as an interactive video dis-play in English and Hungarian showing the history of the factory.

The collection presents the most

Around TownTrademark of quality

important ceramic and stoneware pieces produced at the factory, founded by Miklós Zsolnay in 1853. When his son Vilmos took over the business and cre-ative management in the 1870s, Zsolnay soon gained world fame, winning awards at the international trade fairs of the late 1800s. This is the period the museum uses as a point of depar-ture.

Innovative developments such as the cre-ation of a metallic ‘eosin’ glaze gave Zsolnay’s pieces their signature irides-cence, popular during the Secessionist period. Zsolnay was behind the weather-resistant pyrogran-ite tiles and decorative fixtures that adorn many buildings in Budapest, and here at the Zsolnay foun-tain on Széchenyi tér and the Post Office

Palace on Jókai Mór utca. After the war, the state took over Zsolnay, renaming it the Pécs Porcelain Factory. It did not assume its original name and function until the resurgence of the market econo-my in the 1980s; by then its creative hey-day and gifted pool of designers had been consigned to the past.

When his son Vilmos took over in the 1870s, Zsolnay soon gained world fame

The main level contains some of the best examples of Zsolnay porcelain from architectural ceramics to ornamental building fixtures, and pyrogranite roof tiles to sculptural elements and decorative ceramic tiles. The three galleries on the upper level are dedicated to glassware, earthenware and a dinner place setting arranged thematically and grouped by artist. One room is dedicated to Zsolnay furnishings arranged in a family home of the day. The hall alongside the gallery dis-plays a photographic history of the Zsolnay family and the growth of their empire.

This comprehensive and informative collection provides a beautiful visual his-tory of the city’s creative contribution. You may photograph it (photo passes Ft300) or buy an original Zsolnay piece from the museum shop.

Elsewhere in town, the tempo-rary exhibition ‘Zsolnay Máské(p)p’, showing Zsolnay’s works in the different light, is being staged at the Pécsi Galéria on Széchenyi tér until March 21. Meanwhile the main ÁRKÁD shopping centre will house a dis-

play of Zsolnay his-tory until March 7,

part of a regular project around the city to present

the Zsolnay brand and legend to the general public.Káptalan utca 2 (514 040/kepzo.

jpm.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350.

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PreviewsFrancophone Week

Greek Festival

Getting two for the price of one, the city’s 18th annual Francophone Week is now a Francophone fortnight. Starting on March 14, and running until March 27, conveniently incorporating Francophone World Day on March 20, Francophone Week is being organised by the long-established and culturally active Alliance Française in Pécs.

Proceedings start off with a free con-cert given by Stéphanie Blanchoud, the chanson-friendly classically trained Belgian singer who will be accompanied by violin, cello, keyboard and percussion. Things move up apace two days later when the Tram des Balkans play the

Pesti Est Café (see p18), providing a vibrant performance of Gypsy and klezmer sounds. The festival then moves on to take in a discussion on the works of crime writer Georges Simenon followed by a film, Pécs-born Béla Tarr’s adapation of Simenon’s ‘L’Homme de Londres’.

This will lead to the main events of the fortnight, three nights of chansons per-formed by students from the Auvray-Nauroy School in Paris and their coun-terparts from the Theatre & Film School in Budapest. Audiences can expect piec-es by Aznavour, Brel and Gainsbourg and admission is free. Confirmed venues include the Kafka Café (Alkotmány utca

8, 512 500) and the Billentyű bar in the Ifjúsági Ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13, 211 511). Then comes an all-night show-ing of French film (see p25), and a show by New Orleans-influenced Ceux Qui Marchent Debout, inveterate travellers well versed in stagecraft and danceable tunes. You can meet the band at Le Bistro (Surányi M utca 21) the next day.

Finally, Francophone Week is rounded out by an eclectic choice of smaller events, including a pétanque French bowls tournament, gastronomy and street theatre.

Mar ch 14-27. More details at en.pecs2010.hu.

Pécs has always been a mixed bag of com-munities. One of the handful of the city’s official minorities are Greeks, a fact being celebrated with a week-long festival tak-ing place between March 27 and April 3 at various locations around town, as well as the village of Pellérd, ten minutes’ drive away. The event itself is a completely mixed bag: fine arts, music, theatre and dance feature heavily, provided by

Hellenes born or living in Hungary. These will include singer and bouzouki player Sarantis Mantzourakis, Zoltán Kollonay and band, the Pyrgos band and dance group, and violinist Nikos Ormandlidis. Greek cuisine can also be sampled at these functions hosted by the POTE aula, the Ifjúsági Ház and the Zenepark.

Mar 27-Apr 3. More details at en.pecs2010.hu.

Chanson queen Stéphanie Blanchoud treads the boards for Francophone Week

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Pécs has many museums and attractions. Certain key ones remain closed to prepare for Pécs2010. Most should re-open by the spring.

Museums & galleriesCsontváry Museum Janus

Pannonius utca 11 (310 544). Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350. Chemist Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka (1853-1919) took to painting at 41 and became of the greatest modern Hungarian painters, known for his absurd colour pairings and immense landscapes. Many of his 100 paintings and 20 drawings are on display here, arranged thematically in five galleries, including nature paintings, pencil drawings, oversized landscapes and sketches of surrealistic visions attributable to his mental state at the tims.

Dóm Museum Káptalan utca 8 (513 057). Daily 10am-4pm. Admission Ft300, concs Ft150. This museum contains an archeologically significant collection of old stones, the remains of the original basilica structure – today’s Basilica contains only copies. Also on display are gravestones from nearby Roman-era cemeteries, inscriptions still visible on the back. Little English documentation.

FrEE Nádor Galéria Széchenyi tér 15 (225 404/www.nadorgaleria.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. The Nádor houses temporary exhibitions of local contemporary

visual artists, within the gutted space of the Nádor Hotel undergoing renovation. Every aspect (gallery spaces, Wi-Fi café) of this non-profit arts space was realised through community effort.

AttractionsBasilica (Dóm) Szent István tér

(513 030). Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; Sat 10am-2pm; Sun 1-4pm. Admission Ft800, concs Ft500. The iconic Dóm was built under St Stephen in the 11th century. It eventually assumed its current, mainly neo-Romanesque form in 1891. The four towers, each 60 metres high, are visible around town while the grand interior contains frescoes, carvings and a red marble tabernacle.

Cella Septichora Dóm tér (224 755/ www.septichora.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft600. The Cella is housed in a modern museum structure built to protect three ancient burial chambers: the Peter & Paul and wine pitcher burial chambers, and the octagonal burial chapel. These fourth-century finds are accessible via underground corridors and staircases branching out from the main chapel and museum entrance. See above.

Early Christian Mausoleum (Okeresztény Mauzóleum) Szent István tér 12 (224 755). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft600, concs Ft200. Dominating the fourth-century Early Christian cemetery, its upper level visible above ground, this contains the remains of a single-naved burial chapel. The lower level houses a burial chamber adorned with Early Christian symbols.

Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim Széchenyi tér (321 976). Mon-Fri 10am-noon; Sun noon-2pm. Admission by donation. Set on the main square, this is the largest building in Hungary left over from the Turks. The former mosque occupied the site of a Gothic church from 1579 and was converted into a Catholic church when the Turks left. Note, though, the Islamic prayer niche near the main entrance and sundry Islamic features.

Tettye sinter caves Tettye tér (211 830/www.ddnp.hu). Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat, Sun 10am-4pm; after March 14 Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. Admission Ft750, concs Ft550. Over the centuries, this remarkable geological formation was enlarged and later inhabited. The cave complex above the city in the Mecsek Hills can be visited on twice-hourly 30-minute tours.

Zsolnay Museum See p22.

Listings

Critics’ choice

Csontváry MuseumHungary’s key modern painter.

Mosque of Pasha Gazi KassimTurkish landmark of the 1500s.

Zsolnay MuseumGem on ‘Museum Street’. See p22.

Remembering Károly Csonka

A memorial show dedicated to renowned photographer Károly Csonka runs until March 31 at the Cella Septichora (see below). Pécs-born Csonka (1944-2006) took a lifetime’s worth of photographs of his home town. His photo albums ‘Pécsi Székesegyház’ and ‘Pécs egykor és ma’ drew on subjects of his beloved city then and now. Csonka was a well-known figure, who cherished and respected the town’s industrial past.

Film


ListingsThe following films are screened in their original language, with Hungarian subtitles:

Apolló ArtmoziPerczel Miklós utca 22 (212 604). Admission until 5pm Ft500; after 5pm Ft850. Looking for Eric (UK). Mar 1-3, 4pm.Welcome (Fr) Mar 1-3, 6pm.De gronne slagtere (Den) Mar 1-3, 6pm.The Limits of Control (UK-Sp-Jap) Mar 1-3, 8pm.k Moon (UK) Mar 1-3, 8.15pm; Mar 4-10, 4pm; Mar 8, 8pm.

Panique au village (Fr-Bel-Lux) Mar 1-10, 4pm; Mar 25-31, 4pm.k Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (Fr) Mar 4-10, 5.45pm; Mar 4-7, 9 &10, 8pm; Mar 11-17, 3.45pm & 6pm; Mar 19-24, 8pm.k Das weisse Band (It-Ger-Fr-Aus) Mar 4-17, 7.30pm.La teta asustada (Sp-Peru) Mar 11-17, 3.30pm.Fish Tank (UK) Mar 11-17, 5.15pm; Mar 18-24, 3.30pm & 5.45 pm.The Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call –New orleans (US) Mar 11-17, 8pm.Tamo i ovde (Serb-US) Mar 25-31, 5.15pm.Milarepa (Bhutan) Mar 25-31, 6.30pm.Agora (Sp) Mar 25-31, 8pm.

Civil Közösségek Háza Szent István tér 17. Free.k Das Leben der Anderen (Ger) Mar 10, 5pm.

Uránia mozi Hungária út 19 (511 732). Admission Ft750. k Das weisse Band (It-Ger-Fr-Aus) Mar 1, 8pm.The Imaginarium of Dr Parnassus (Fr-Can) Mar 1-3, 4pm &8pm.Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (Fr) Mar 8, 8pm.o’Horten (Nor) Mar 15, 8pm.k Taking Woodstock (US) Mar 18-21, 6pm; Mar 22-24, 4pm.The Wolfman (UK-US) Mar 18-21, 8pm; Mar 22,10pm; Mar 24, 8pm.Alle Anderen (Ger) Mar 22-24, 6pm.Lost Persons Area (Bel-Fr) Mar 25-31, 6pm.Up in the Air (US) Mar 25-31, 8pm.California Dreamin’ (Rom) Mar 29, 8pm.

FilmMovies through the night

Moon

The Night of Cinema showcases six films from around the world, with coffee and croissants laid on for night owls.

The highlight of culture-packed Francophone Week, the Night of Cinema is being staged at the Uránia from 8pm until 8am overnight on March 17.

All in all, six films will be shown, by French, Belgian, Canadian, Romanian and Swiss directors. English-speaking cinemagoers shouldn’t feel left out, as three will be presented with English subtitles, and a general festival vibe around this classic cine-ma may encourage you to stay awhile – plus the event is free. French coffee and croissants are being laid on for those stay-ing late into the night.

Starting things off will be Arnaud Desplechin’s ‘Un conte de Noël’, a two-and-a-half hour movie made in 2008 revolving

around family relationships at Christmas. French speakers will enjoy one of Desplechin’s most celebrated works select-ed for Cannes. At 10.30pm, Olivier Ringer’s 90-minute work from 2006, ‘Pom le pou-lain’ is set in the forest of the Ardennes. Both the above films have Hungarian subtitles.

For English speakers, the night starts just after midnight with Emile Gaudreault’s ‘De père en flic’ (‘From Father to Cop’), a Canadian film made last year. In this comedy, Jacques and his son Marc are two policemen sick of the sight of each other, but who must pull together to rescue a colleague kidnapped by a bik-er gang. At 2am, Andrei Gruzniczki’s ‘L’autre Irène’ (‘The Other Irène’) also car-ries English subtitles. Only recently made in Romania, it

centres on Aurel, a security guard in a department store, whose wife goes to work in Cairo. The plot turns on a phone call Aurel takes inform-ing him of her suicide.

Afterwards comes Eric Lartigau’s ‘Prête-moi ta main’ focuses on a dissatisfied bach-elor, before the closing film of the night, Jean-Stéphane

Bron’s ‘The Way I Look at You’, from

2004. Set in the car of a driving school, it fea-tures five couples from differ-ent back-grounds

with equally different rea-

sons to obtain their driving

licence. This will also be subtitled in English.Ticket prices vary from

Ft750 for one film to Ft1,750 for all six. The three with English subtitles would cost Ft1,450.

Uránia Cinema, Hungária út 19 (www.af.org.hu).

Gallic guile Scenes from ‘Un conte de Noël’ (above), and ‘Prête-moi ta main’ (below)

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Veronika Harcsa expresses her love of jazz quite simply. ‘From the very first moment, I found jazz really exciting because spontaneity is impor-tant to me,’ said the singer. ‘I can express what the goings-on of that day or what I’m most interested in.’

First trained as a pianist then a saxophonist, Harcsa was one of two students of her

year admitted to the Jazz Faculty at the Franz Liszt Music Academy. ‘Yes, I gradu-ated in jazz vocal,’ she says. ‘Many categorise me as a jazz singer but I don’t think so. I’ve always liked all kinds of music.’

Harcsa formed her epony-mous quartet in 2005, releas-ing ‘Speak Low’ while still at the Academy. Her style was

tone always impressed me. Billie Holiday is still a big favourite. Also Dee Dee Bridgewater. I saw here live and she was fantastic, with amazing energy.’

A Japanese dis-tributor imported 200 records and ten days later asked for 300 more

In 2006 Harcsa began to write her own songs. Her

quartet released two more albums, all

original songs, all in English.

‘The songs that I’ve writ-ten so far wouldn’t really work in Hungarian,’

she says.For reasons

unknown to her (‘I didn’t even have

a myspace page’), she became big in Japan. ‘A dis-tributor who imported European jazz found us. I sent them 200 records and ten days later they said they had sold out and for me to send 300 more.’ A frequent visitor to European jazz festivals, Harcsa now works with three main bands and has not been afraid to try ska, electronic and alternative pop.

The Quartet will be play-ing stuff from the last two albums, plus a surprise or two. ‘Last time we played a song by the Beatles, before that by the Clash. Since January we’ve been working with our band Bin-Jip. This will be the first Quartet show this year so we’ll have momentum.’

March 20, 7.30pm, PTE ÁOK Aula, Szigeti út 12.

Along with the headline acts from across the Atlantic taking part in the International Jazz Weekend, one home-grown talent stands out: Veronika Harcsa. Aniko Fenyvesi talked to her.

Music & NightlifeHungary’s own jazz diva hits town

something distinct: nu jazz, as she likes to describe it, with a little free jazz thrown in. Leaning towards Nina Simone, a little raspy with a slight, attractive accent in her English, hers is a romantic, vocal-driven jazz. ‘Wherever I studied singing it was always in English. The language of jazz is English,’ says Harcsa. ‘Nina Simone’s extraordinary

Music &

Nightlife


ListingsCyrano Cafe & Lounge

Czinderi utca 6 (06 30 650 7021 mobile). Small, upscale weekend-only venue. Parties: Mar 5-6, 12-13, 19-20, 26-27 ‘Funky Fever’ – weekend floor fillers.

Ifjúsági Ház Nagy Lajos király útja 13 (211 511). Landmark culture house with a 800-capacity concert hall and smaller adjacent bar venue. Gigs: Mar 6 8pm Félix Lajkó. Brilliant contemporary violinist here accompanied by viola player Antal Brasnyó. Mar 13 8pm Lord. Age-old Magyar rock. Mar 26 6pm Depresszió. Ten-year anniversary show for these metallists from Debrecen, supported by Horda and Rubicon.

Kino Café Hungária utca 19 (511 732). Louche late-night cinema haunt with a popular, sticky dancefloor, and Zlaty Bazant beers flying out of the busy bar. Essential to any all-night bar crawl. Parties: Mar 6 DJs blnd!, Péló and Sirmo.

Pécsi Est Café Kereskedõk Háza, ground floor, Rákóczi út 46 (06 20 667 8800 mobile/www.pecsiestcafe.hu). Impressive brunch-to-bedtime large-scale operation incorporating a stage, DJ decks, classic Hungarian restaurant and expansive sports bar. Ideal place to catch a band – long bar counter, sharp staff, friendly vibe amid the party-hungry mixed crowd. See p18. Gigs: Mar 11 Kati Kovács & the Qualitons. Blue-chip beehive-era Magyar pop. See left. Mar 12 Made in Pécs. Local hip-hop acts. Mar 16 Tram des Balkans. Borderline crazy Balkan-klezmer-swing from France. Mar 17 Dub Lfo, Irie Ites Sound, Irie Maffia Sound System. International reggae night with bands from Israel, France and Hungary. Mar 23 Carbonfools. Titusz and his cultish bag of tricks. Mar 26 Joy Division Isolated. Tribute band led by famous Magyar figure. FrEE Parties: Mar 5-6, 12-13, 19-20, 26-27: Kultúrdiszkó

Szenes Klub Ifjúság útja 6 (242 553 ex 4476/www.szenesklub.hu). Legendary student venue with a cherished pedigree. It’s a low-frills cellar with a few tables set in a smoky tunnel-like room, with a stage at the back – this is where iconic local band Kispál és a Borz started out. Gigs: Mar 16 The Twist Band. Hungarian underground supergroup. Mar 17 Pál Utcai Fiúk. Cult Hungarian band from the 1980s. Parties: Mar 8 DJ Enikő.

Toxic Club Király utca 2 (www.toxicmusic.hu). Hilarious late-night punk cellar club right by the main square, run by the irrepressible Tony and frequented by regulars out of a Fellini film. Seems to have a louder-the-better

policy on music programming. Gigs: Mar 6 Watch My Dying. Balls-out trash/death metal in honour of Women’s Day. Mar 10 Kutyával Őrzött Terület. Seven-member ska-punk band with original material. Mar 12 Mystery Gang. Disciples of Magyar rockabilly. Mar 20 Rock-on. A long night of live rock; the joke’s in the name. Mar 24 Soundarcade. Psychedelic, progressive, experimental band from Latvia. Mar 27 Ichetunder. Popular local heavy metallists. Mar 29 Dirty Sound Magnet. Blues-rock from Sweden.

FrEE Trafik Perczel M utca 22 (212 672). Quality club, live venue and bar/restaurant in the Apolló Cinema building. Parties: Mar 4, 11, 18, 25. Jazz, soul, funk, dub and poetry. DJs Péló, Bodoo, Pfunk and Pausz.

Zion Pécs Zsolnay V utca 109 (http://zionpecs.blog.hu). Admirable live venue with a DJ room, rehearsal space and community playroom set up in the former Black Diamond cinema, also once a school. Run by volunteers, it brings a teenage crowd to smoke like beagles and flirt shamelessly. Set in the deserted Zsolnay Quarter, it’s a taxi ride away – there’s a number behind the bar. Check the website for programming – gigs ha.

Could there be a more perfect pairing in pop? Budapest beat funk group the Qualitons, who lifted their name from the retro Hungarian record label, accompany 1960s’ songstress Kati Kovács in a faithful reworking of classic hits circa 1968.

Having played sell-out shows in Budapest, the combo play the Pécsi Est Café on March 11.

Kovács rose to fame on Hungary’s version of ‘Opportunity Knocks’, ‘Ki mit tud?’, and continued to churn out hits for four decades or more. There isn’t a Hungarian alive who can’t sing along to at least half-a-dozen of her num-bers. Think Petula Clark and then double it.

Although turning 65 last October, Kovács appears busi-er than ever. While she was churning out those hits, she was beginning to set up an impressive movie career from 1968 onwards. She also worked with the classic rock band Lokomotiv GT and was involved in Hungary’s version of ‘Godspell’ in 1972.

The Qualitons have an EP hot off the presses, and a full-length album due out in April. ‘The music from the 1960s is

PreviewKati Kovács & QualitonsPécsi Est Café, Mar 11 8pm

really good and it’s underrepre-sented in this country, which is why we formed the band,’ explains ‘band captain’ Kanada Káosz. ‘Not a whole lot has hap-pened since Kraftwerk, people are just repeating themselves,’ he adds. But this group isn’t just about rehashing songs from their favourite decades. ‘It has more to do with the tonal quality. We like the way music sounded in the ’60s and ’70s and that’s the template we use. But the songs we create are our own,’ comments drummer Hunor G Szabó.

‘Not a whole lot has happened since Kraftwerk were around’

The Qualitons have only been around since the end of 2008 but long enough to get picked up by German label Tramp Records and be invited to festivals around Europe, even as far afield as Russia. Their new album ‘Panoramic Tymes’ tests out the boys’ songwriting chops and con-tains nearly all original materi-al. ‘This is a real exciting com-pilation,’ concluded Káosz.

Bridging five decades Kati Kovács & Qualitons

Top picks

Félix LajkóIfjúsági Ház. Sat Mar 6.Unmissable mad violinist.

Mystery GangToxic Club. Fri Mar 12.Woo hoo! Magyar rockabilly!

Tram des BalkansPécsi Est Café. Tue Mar 16.Wild sounds from France (pic) .

The Twist BandSzenes Klub. Tue Mar 16.Famous four-piece rock combo.

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Performing ArtsKeeping tradition alive

Pécs’s own Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble is giving two anniversary shows at the prestigious National Theatre. András Papp looks at 55 years of colourful history.

Named after the hills sur-rounding the town of Pécs, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble was formed 55 years ago under the wing of award-winning choreographer Antal Simon. To celebrate, the troup is giv-ing three shows, one at Budapest’s Operetta Theatre, and two special anniversary gala performances at Pécs National Theatre on March 26 and 29.

Originally founded with the aim of preserving and present-

ing Hungarian folk culture, the group has gone through sever-al stages of revival following the modern-day development of directions in folk and dance. As such, for its anniversary gala shows, three generations of former members will be pre-senting emblematic choreog-raphies from the past.

The result is an entertaining cultural and anthropological lesson with age-old folk dances

The present-day dance group will be revealing the regional and historical layers of Carpathian folk dance through rural dance culture,

using historical excerpts and literary references – resulting in a thoroughly entertaining cul-tural and anthropo-logical lesson via the tradi-tional folk dance of the region.

Once working with the com-positions of found-er-choreographer Simon, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble soon branched out to perform works by István Molnár, Miklós Rábai and Antal Kricskovics. Tours of Europe quickly followed, including appearances at the San Remo

Let’s dance The Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble in action in 2009...

Flower Festival and the Sicilian Agrigento, the start of

a long tradition of the Mecsek Folk Dance

Ensemble per-forming at pres-

tigious events around the world – in 1970, the troupe even visited Vietnam. The last 18

months have been particular-

ly busy, with appearances at

ESDANSA International Festival of Music & Dance in Catalonia, at La Caridad in Spain, in Greece, Croatia and Florence, the lat-ter a performance by Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble soloists accompanied by a full cham-ber orchestra.

Perform

ing Arts


National Theatre of Pécs – Chamber TheatreSzínház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).

Mon Mar 29Bill T & Arnie Zane dance ensemble 7.30pm. Ft1,500. The ensemble was formed after eleven years of co-operation between Bill T Jones and Arnie Zane; during this period the couple has redefined modern American dance. Their new production celebrates Abraham Lincoln’s 200th birthday by reflecting on Lincoln’s heritage as well as the nature of history. The video compositions of Janet Wong work to refresh the viewer’s historical knowledge. The most original music, combining classical and folk elements, is performed by Chris Lancaster on electric cello, Jerome Begin on piano and Lisa Komara as soprano.

National Theatre of Pécs – Main stageSzínház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).

Fri Mar 5 & Wed Mar 24Giselle Pécs Ballet. Choreographer: Balázs Vincze. Dancers: Írisz Nagy, Edit Domoszlai, Péter Koncz, Márton Szabó, Dávid Kristóf, Zsolt Molnár, Szilvia Balássy, István Dóri, Dóra Uhrik. 7pm. Ft1,250-Ft2,000. Giselle is about love, treachery, madness, vengeance and forgiveness. This is the most famous and known romantic ballet, telling the story of Giselle, an innocent peasant girl who is being mislead, betrayed and left by a rich noble man. Giselle loses her mind and commits suicide, entering the world of the Wilis, a group of evil female spirits. How can Giselle’s innocence remain intact in such a world?

Thur Mar 25 Giselle Pécs Ballet. Choreographer: Balázs Vincze. Dancers: Írisz Nagy, Edit Domoszlai, Péter Koncz, Márton Szabó, Dávid Kristóf, Zsolt Molnár, Szilvia Balássy, István Dóri, Dóra Uhrik. 3pm. Ft1,250-Ft2,000.

Fri Mar 26 & Mon Mar 29Gala celebration of the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble. Ft1,000-Ft3,000. See left.

Listings

Antal ran the group for 15 years until he left to become Artistic Director of the Budapest Dance Ensemble in 1970. First Tibor Somogyi, then István Bodonyi and final-ly, in 1976, József Bodai led the troupe, Bodai brining in fresh ideas, modernising many of Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble choreographic

styles and setting up junior ensembles to feed into the main group. Touring contin-ued apace – Yugoslavia, Syria, France – before Bodai finally retired as late as 1993.

The current artistic director János Molnár has been in place for the last 17 years, reshaping the organisation as a whole, founding the Mecsek

...and in 1966

Folk Dance Ensemble Association in 1994 and assist-ing in the setting up of founda-tions for junior dancers, most notably the one operated by the János Berze Nagy Folk Art School since 2003. With all these in place, a high level of performance is guaranteed and the future of the company is assured.

The gala show features 150 dancers with junior members

The Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble now works with some of the most renowned choreographers in the coun-try, regularly invited to inter-pret both traditional folk piec-es and adaptions from Hungarian theatre – the pre-sentation of playwright István Örkeny’s humorous works about the Tót family is a recent celebrated example.

The anniversary gala shows will feature 150 dancers, including junior members. Audiences can expect plenty of traditional dances such as csárdás and verbunk – as well as a few surprises.

Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble Anniversary Gala Show, Mar 26 & 29, 7pm, Pécs National Theatre, Színház tér 1 (221 1965 /www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu). Admission Ft1,000-Ft3,000.


My Pécs András Lovasi – musician

András Lovasi, frontman of two rock bands from Pécs (Kispál és a Borz, Kiscsillag) is well known all over the country. His personality and artistic work are as inseparable to Pécs as the mosque on Széchenyi tér. What is the first thing that comes into your mind hearing the word Pécs?The view of the city looking down from Havi Hill. It was my ritual to take girls up there when I was young. We used to look at the city from there. László Rátgéber (top local basketball coach) lives up there.Do you have any other favourite spots?Sure, there’s a lot. As a teenager it was my favourite routine to wander around parts like Daindol, Makár and the outskirts where families have second homes. It is interesting that now these neighbourhoods are residential areas. Back in those days most of the parties were held there, mainly because people could cause less damage. Pubs used to close at 10pm, but the Tavasz presszó was open until two in the morning. The bigger parties were held there.orfű, the resort near Pécs, is connected to your name.I grew to like Orfű because of its rustic-ity and tranquillity. Until recently we did not even have a fence around our house, there wasn’t anything to be afraid of.You’re also connected to Gyükés in PécsYes, they’re building a rehearsal room there. I was fed up with being kicked out of every rehearsal studio sooner or later.

What changes in town don’t you like?Let me start with those that I do like, such as the fact that downtown is now expanding out to the east. However, I do not like it that shops are disappearing from the city centre. I don’t like the role of the Árkád shopping mall as an enter-tainment centre, something that was developed by damaging Czinderi utca and around. I’m not saying that I want the bordello back that used to stand there, but I rather miss those functions that these days are fulfilled by Sétatér.Favourite pubs?Let’s see. When I was young, we used to go to places where they served people under age. I still get nostalgic feelings about the Csillag restaurant, one or

two wine cellars, for example the István-pince, the Tavasz presszó at dawn, the Ré-zangyal, the Áfium restaurant and the Dante Café.

Favourite restaurant?The best steak tartare is served in the Barbakán, Replay has the best fruit soup with sweet cheese dumplings. I like the Csillag with its traditional waiters and the Tettye restaurant. I like Swabian reli-ability, in any case.What was your best gig last year?We performed in a church at the Ördög-katlan Festival, using early Christian texts. That was great. And the Fishing On Orfű festival – although being there is pretty much all I remember.What are you looking forward to most in 2010?Fishing On Orfű again. I’d also like to know which one of the promised build-ings will be ready, what we will be saying about this year a year from now – and how far the city will be developed.

Time Out

Editor András PappEditor at Large Peterjon CresswellDeputy Editor Aniko FenyvesiArt Director Gabor Ocsovai

Contributors Zoltán Győrffy, Andor Harci, Balázs Pesti

Photo credits József Hubay p3 (bottom left), 6 (main), 7 (wall of padlocks), 8-9, 13 (main), 14-15, 26 (main), 30. Balázs Pesti p15 (top right). Lajos Kalmár p18, 21. Other photos were provided by featured establishments and artists.

CoverPhotography: Lajos Kalmár

Letters to the editor should be sent to: [email protected]

Sales Manager Gabriella Rostá[email protected]

Distribution Manager János Haá[email protected]

Publisher Daniel Bodnar

Publication Management Balázs Radovits

Advertising sales 06 20 439 7218

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Pubs used to close at 10pm but the Tavasz presszó opened til two

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Time Out Pécs - 2010. march - I./1