Time Out Budapest, November

INSIDEMarrakech guideGourmet lunchesBudapest curling

Mitzi Molnar’sGossip Column

KNOW MORE. DO MORE.NOVEMBER 2012 - ISSUE NO. 43 - 495 HUF

in English

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November 2012 Time Out Budapest 3

ContentsMUSICp57 Muse in concert‘Christian gangsta rap jazz odyssey, some ambient rebellious dubstep and face melting metal fl amenco cowboy psychedelia’

Features 6 Hooray for

Dunawood‘The costumes, the scenery, the makeup, the props’

12 A day with the dead Budapest’s cemeteries

Regulars4 Scene & Herd

Latest gossips in town

16 Food & DrinkGourmet lunches; Reviews

28 StyleBasics for winter; Waterproof

38 TravelMarrakech in focus

40 Around TownHandmade Hungarian Tastes Fair

44 ArtHungarian Month of Photography; Cézanne and the Past

46 BooksThis is How You Lose Her by Junot Diaz; Mortality by Christopher Hitchens

48 Children50 Film

Reviews

54 Gay & Lesbian

56 MusicPreviews: Everlast; Muse; Mark Lanegan Band; Fear Factory

60 NightlifeNathan Fake

64 SportCurling in Budapest

66 Statues, Streets & Squares

MUSICp44 Muse Applied art every day

ARTp44 Fiction vs Reality Hungarian Month of Photography

Contents

AROUND TOWNp40 Secrets revealed Area51 Project

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4 Time Out Budapest November 2012

A November to remember

Hello again, as you can see they let me back a second time, which is just as should be darlings! The festive season

is already in full swing in Budapest, and has been since the Brody Ents All Hallow’s Eve Witches and Hard-Ons Party, which took place at BOB. Talk about a push! They were scraping them off the ceiling for that one. Dressed up as a blood splattered cowboy was Daniel Kaali, who we can’t help notice, must be the fittest man in town. Well, it’s exactly the kind of thing Mitzi notices. Not content to be a local hero, the ice-blond man of steel is now competing for global recognition. Yes the man Kaali is heading off to Englishtown, New Jersey (of all places) for the Toughest of all Tough Mudders competition mid November. If you haven’t heard of Tough Mudder, these are hardcore, 16-19 kilometre obstacle courses designed by the British Special Forces. They are designed to test mental and physical strength, grit and stamina. This particular challenge lasts for 24 hours, which is like an average night out dancing for Daniel. Since the Kaali family business is at least three quarters tied up with in vitro fertilisation, you might wonder if the boy was slipped some kryptonite at the ‘planning stage’. Well, you can call Mitzi a conspiracy theorist all you want – just don’t call me late for dinner.

The Budapest Art Market just finished as we went to press, and it was another ban-ner year. But as for the Hungarian art market in general, all Mitzi can say is, well my dears the green-eyed monster is alive and well. People can be sooo jealous about defending their turf and safe-guarding collectors – a bit pathetic given how micro these local collec-tors are in international terms. The more establish-ment art buffs also seem to think art events should be dull and long-winded. When the Minister of Culture opened the Varosliget Water Statue Park

in the summer, it was with a speech so long it put Fidel Castro to shame. Zero panache! Fortunately, there are younger practitioners who are a much more outward looking bunch. They speak English, embraced Social Media early on and have understood that making art more fun and approachable is not about ‘dumbing down’ but simply a way of helping the market flourish. For one obvious example, Attila Ledényi has done wonders in building up the Budapest Art Market. This movement is further helped by various high profile bars, restaurants and so on which are engaging young artists to provide authentic artwork for

their space. The 4Bro (literally 4

brothers) who started Ötkert (and the recently opened BOB), Zoltán Plus (the man behind Uri Muri and Ankert), as well as Doboz, Design Terminal and Brody House have all been instrumental in making Budapest’s art scene more fun and accessible. But it needs your support, so don’t just be a browser darlings, become a collector!

This month’s Hooray for Dunawood cover story is a hoot. We were in Hollywood our-selves for a week or so last month. I love LA, but I miss home comforts. So for Hungarian pastries and atmosphere I head for Mishi’s Strudel Bakery & Café in the Long Beach area. They serve espresso in little Herendi-style por-celain cups. I even ran into the lovely and tal-ented actress Lili Bordán there, treating her-self to a perfectly flaky apple strudel. Otto & Son Hungarian Import Store is great for sta-

ple Hungarian goodies if you miss the taste of pick Salami, or Chestnut

puree. But my favourite place to hang out with fellow

Hungarians in LA is the gGallery in Santa

Monica, run by Hungarian animator and film director

Gábor Csupo and artist Kay Roy. Every last Friday of the month

they host a little celebration of art, music, wine, and friendship. Divine.

Meanwhile, ever the contrarian, when Mitzi is back home here in Budapest, the last thing we want to do is eat Hungarian food all day, every day! So, we’ve been loving the newly opened Pad Thai Wok Bar downtown Oktober 6, where you can assemble your own Pad Thai. It’s a bit like like Vapiano but for Thai food lovers. In fact there are so many possible combinations of sauce, noodles, ingredients and flavouring, you could keep coming back for more for a very long time. No news yet on the fate of The Caledonian, favourite water-ing hole for many an expat, who were threat-ened with two months closure by Hungarian Customs for cooking with whisky. Well, after lodging an appeal they were told they would have their final

answer within 30 days. As we go to press, management and staff were still waiting for

another armed official to turn up with a (pos-sibly) revised verdict. Doubtless written with

an inky quill on old parchment, and sealed with candle wax. You can’t accuse Hungarian officialdom of being a slave to the times!

Meanwhile, we try to keep abreast of all the fascinating foreigners that have made my home town their base. Did you know that Nick Denton, the 40something British jour-nalist who founded Gawker dot com, spends at least part of his year here in Budapest? You know, I really take my (fake) leopard skin pillbox hat off to the man. He’s made gossip an international business, and Mitzi is mere-ly a cottage industry by comparison. Strange to think though isn’t it, that the gawkers may be gawking at us? So if you are going to behave badly, try to have a little style about it. And remember, if all you can do is run people down and you couldn’t keep a secret if your life depended on it, then pull up a chair by Mitzi Molnár!

Scene & HerdTime Out’s Gossip Columnist Mitzi Molnar reports…

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They call it Dunawood – Well some of us do. Our beautiful city has become Central Europe’s hot spot for big budget films and TV series.

Scott Alexander Young goes on location to see what the fuss is about. Did somebody say ‘Action?!’

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It’s an open secret that Budapest has become a satellite city of Hollywood. That’s Hollywood in the broadest sense of the term of course, meaning big ticket motion picture productions. At any time of the year you can turn a corner to fi nd yourself, for example, in front of a 19th century street.

Horses and carriages clip past, gentlemen in bowler hats, ladies carrying parasols. But it could just as well be a ferocious tank battle in a war zone with sniper fi re streaking the late afternoon sky. For that matter, you could chance upon a street full of big American cars and fl ared pants straight out of a 1970s crime fi lm. A moody looking stranger walks into shot.The girls all swoon. It’s then of course that reality intrudes, because there are men with walkie-talkies patrolling the space between you and the illusion, this illusion also known as a fi lm set.

Personally your correspondent requires no further proof that Budapet is cinema city, because the very same street where he lives, Eötvös utca in the 6th district, has featured quite prominently in not one but two big bud-get movie trailers in the last 12 months or so alone! One was the latest Die Hard spectacu-lar and the other was The Raven, starring John Cusack as Edgar Allan Poe, or at least someone with a very similar hairstyle. In it, Eötvös utca stood in for 19th century Baltimore. In A Good Day To Die Hard, Budapest was set-dressed to resemble Moscow, which Bruce Willis then almost sin-gle-handedly destroys. In the last decade Hungary’s capital city has doubled as Paris, Rome, Berlin, Vienna, Moscow, Buenos Aires, Washington and Baltimore, among others.

‘A Good Day to Die Hard was the largest street show I think that’s ever been done in Hungary. And given that with so many layers of offi cialdom, the police, the BKK, BKV, I was worried it would be diffi cult to achieve any-thing in the time needed. Yet to the city’s cred-it, without exception, we took meetings in the City Mayor’s offi ce, and local districts, who were incredible. I mean truly, they opened doors that had never been opened before, and really understood the value of what a fi lm like this would bring to the city. This doesn’t mean there weren’t a dozen contracts and a lot of paperwork to get there, but it worked.’– Adam Goodman, Mid Atlantic Films

The number and scale of movies and TV series shot in and around Budapest in just the last year or two is quite staggering. To contin-ue, Sir Anthony Hopkins, whom you may remember for his fondness for liver and Chianti, took on another meaty role as both villain and redeem-er in The Rite, a fi lm about demonic pos-session in the Eternal City. In the recreation of late 19th century Paris in Bel Ami, Robert Pattinson simulta-neously fell in love with Uma

Thurman, Christina Ricci and Kristin Scott-Thomas, which seemed a credible hypothe-sis, given his famously wandering eye. In World Without End, the Hungarian country-side doubled as Medieval England. No, not because of its politics, but because of some very elaborate sets - and hundreds of extras. (Or ‘Statiszta’ as they are known in the trade here.)

With its inherent glamour, it’s easy to romanticize the fi lm and TV business, but the reasons for so many big budget productions choos-ing Hungary are as practical as they come. For one thing, the Hungarian government gives international productions a

20% tax rebate on their spend in this country. But even without the

refund, fi lming in Hungary is usually signifi cantly cheaper

than in, for example, the UK. For productions that need

to build big sets as opposed to shooting on actual locations, Hungary is a conve-nient and cost-effec-tive location. And of course it doesn’t hurt that the city itself is

just dripping with cinematic sex appeal. Still on fi lms shot here recently, mellow

heartthrob Keanu Reeves charmed everyone with his Zen like good manners while here to fi lm 47 Ronin. This was the feature fi lm that gave a large number of Hungary’s Japanese

population a short-lived but glorious fi lm career. (It has had a delayed release, which can spell trouble in the editing room.) Meanwhile, Jeremy Irons has almost become a fi xture in Budapest because of his ongoing role in history’s longest running historical mini series, The Borgias. The peren-nially elegant Irons can be seen from

time to time at the Gerlöczy, one of Budapest’s most beautiful old time cafes. And just last year, a nice looking young kid from Springfi eld, Missouri named Brad Pitt turned up to shoot scenes from yet another movie about zombies, this one called World War Z. Pitt travelled with his bride-to-be, the formida-ble Angeline Jolie, who while in Budapest crafted an Art-house movie about diffi cult themes, In the Land of Blood and Honey which wasn’t as mauled by the critics as one might have expected.

The fi lm shoots you can come across just wandering the streets are really only the tip of the iceberg. And when we say Iceberg, that

It’s easy to romanticize the film and TV business

ue, Sir Anthony Hopkins, whom you may remember for his fondness for liver and Chianti, took on another meaty role as both villain and redeem-er in The Rite, a fi lm about demonic pos-session in the Eternal City. In the recreation of late 19th century Paris in Bel Ami, Robert Pattinson simulta-neously fell in love with Uma

government gives international productions a 20% tax rebate on their spend in

this country. But even without the refund, fi lming in Hungary is

usually signifi cantly cheaper than in, for example, the UK.

For productions that need to build big sets as

opposed to shooting on actual locations, Hungary is a conve-nient and cost-effec-tive location. And of course it doesn’t hurt that the city itself is

time to time at the Budapest’s most beautiful old time cafes. And just last year, a nice looking young kid from Springfi eld, Missouri named up to shoot scenes from yet another movie about zombies, this one called Pitt travelled with his bride-to-be, the formida-ble Angeline Jolie, who while in Budapest crafted an Art-house movie about diffi cult themes, which wasn’t as mauled by the critics as one might have expected.

The fi lm shoots you can come across just wandering the streets are really only the tip of the iceberg. And when we say Iceberg, that

Bel Ami

Adam GoodmanPhotography by Balázs Jekler

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literally means the Titanic. As in, the $15,000,000 ITV mini series Titanic, which was shot in a massive water tank at Stern Film Studio and Media Center, a kind of boutique sound stage in Pomáz, Pest County. A 98- square-foot heated pool in a 15,600-square-foot stage was built especially for the produc-tion. Still in fact Europe’s biggest aquatic sound stage, it can be also be used for regular shoots. The Titanic production chose Hungary and Stern studio after scouting Northern Ireland, Ireland, the U.K. and South Africa. The studio opened around five years ago on the site of a textile mill which one Robert Szabados had run for a dozen years, before competition from Chinese textile factories got him thinking about a change in his line of busi-ness.

These days there are half-a-dozen such sound stages in and around Budapest either

hosting international film productions, or tout-ing for their patronage. The other big names include Fót, Raleigh Studios and Korda Studios. The Fót studios have been going for a long time, and were the soundstage for the excellent BBC series Brother Cadfael in the mid 1990s, as if any-one can remember back that far. Raleigh Studios, which opened in 2010, is a $70 million, 45,000-square-foot facility boasting nine soundstages and 15 acres of backlot. According to their publicity, this is ‘the newest and most advanced studio in Central & Eastern Europe. Period.’ Bold talk perhaps, but no-one could fail to be impressed by its sheer scale and state-of-the-art technology. Then there’s Korda Studios, 30 kilometres out of Budapest in Etyek. As

well as six soundstages, including a 63,000-square-foot superstage, Korda is replete with production support facilities, workshops, offices, dressing and makeup rooms and backlot sets.

It was at Korda studios that we met Adam Goodman of Mid Atlantic Films. He’s a tall and affable 40ish Londoner who seems to wear the pressures of his job lightly. ‘People say, what is it that Mid Atlantic films do, what are you here for? Well, we know what 10,000 forints should buy you. Not what some people tell you it should.’ He and his partner in Mid-Atlantic Films, Howard Ellis, have been key players in smoothing the way for Hollywood’s entry into the city, since 2001. Mid Atlantic have worked on a slew of large-scale interna-tional co-productions, including this year’s big ticket shows: A Good Day to Die Hard and the third season of The Borgias. ‘As to why I moved to Hungary, one of the big driving forc-es was the crew, the local film crew. I’d spent many years as a line producer and production manager in shows in America and England and elsewhere, and the crews were not always as hospitable, shall we say, but when I came to Hungary, I had the most fantastic experience with the local crew, and I thought it was maybe a one-off. But then there was a second show, and then a third show. And it was clear that, to go to work, and be among local filmmakers that love what they do, and are passionate about it, was a very enjoyable thing. On the flip side, and it’s not a secret, the level of bureau-cracy is obviously something that can be an impediment. That said there aren’t many capi-tal cities where you could do a street shoot like

we just did on A Good Day to Die Hard.’Red tape or no red tape, Hungary

has had a long illustrious film history of its own, and a relationship with Hollywood that is legendary. Well, for one thing the Founder of Fox Studios, William Fox was Hungarian. The Founder of Paramount Pictures and Loew’s Theaters, one Adolf Zukor, was also Hungarian. International film mogul Alexander Korda helped create

the British film industry and became the first ever producer or director to be knighted. There’s a story which says he hung a sign over his door that read, ‘It’s not enough to be

M A D E I N H U N G A R Y . . . Five movies worth watching filmed in Budapest

Spy GameBudapest as East Berlin with Robert Redford and

Brad Pitt.

EvitaWith Madonna and

Banderas partially shot in Budapest in 1996.

MunichFilmed in 2005, Budapest played Munich, London,

Paris and Rome.

Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, SpyThe opening scene fully

shot at Párizsi udvar near Ferenciek tere in 2011.

UnderworldMainly shot in the under-

ground of Budapest in 2002.

Hungary has had a long illustrious film history of its own

The Rite

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Hungarian; you must have talent too.’ Well, unforgettable screen icons such as Tony Curtis and Peter Lorre were both Hungarian. And as we go to press, Zsa Zsa Gabor still is. Back on Hungarian soil, this country was a pioneer in European cinema, with the very first Hungarian film studio Hunnia Film, open-ing way back in 1911.

This legacy continues with a themed attrac-tion, called Korda Filmpark, where fans can visit the sets and sound stages where feature films such as Hellboy 2: The Golden Army and Season of the Witch, and TV mega-pro-ductions The Borgias and World Without End were filmed. They offer individual and group visitors alike throughout the year. After the two-hour exhibition and studio tour you can even take a meal in the same restaurant used by crews, and visit their souvenir shop. That’s Korda Filmpark dot hu, in case you’re inter-ested. Memo to the Filmpark though, they need more signs on the roads marking the way to the attraction.

With so many big productions com-ing to Hungary, that means stars. And where do they go out to play? Well per-haps nobody knows the answer to that better than Mark Milstein, the city’s pre-eminent Paparazzi photographer. Mark says that in the Hungarian attitude towards paparazzi, ‘Budapest is not New York. Most crew mem-bers of any given production in Hungary are openly aggressive towards paparazzi, while in New York or elsewhere in Europe the exact opposite is true. This open aggression and all that comes with it make it extremely difficult to work in Budapest. That said, with a little smarts and effort outright confrontation can be avoided and you can make your shots.

Access to Angelina and Brad ran hot and cold. It was either feast or famine. Jeremy Irons has been pretty much left alone by the internation-al press. Steven Spielberg, here for Munich was somewhat open. John Cusack was quite evasive. Brad Pitt on his own filming World War Z was openly hostile for most of his stay. Keanu Reeves was also quite evasive and reclusive. Bruce Willis was very open and made it real easy. Rob Pattinson was cordial and did not throw up any barriers to shooting him on the set. Anthony Hopkins was also quite friendly and did not obstruct access in any overt way. Antonio Banderas (in Budapest for a TV commercial) was quite friendly at the airport. Oliver Stone (in BP for a

two day film course) was cordial.’With regards to where the stars

hang out when they’re in Budapest, the biggest surprises probably came from Brad and Angelina. Brad just loved the McDonald’s at Kolosy tér! Both loved Arany Kaviar and Pomo d’Oro for dining [besides Nobu]. They took their kids to the Orczy Kalandpark in the 8th district, and ice

skating across the street from Mammut Mall. Brad also enjoyed riding through the 7th dis-trict on his motorcycle. Quite a few times, Angie and Brad would take a room at the Kempinski, leave the kids with nannies, and have a date night alone in their hotel suite. Stars can how-ever show up in the most unexpected places. We once ran into Charlize Theron, Kristanna Loken and Seth Green going unrecognised as they drank Unicum shots and played foosball in a 7th district dive bar. As far as we know, none of them were actually shooting anything here at the time, so it must have just been a city break. And how cool is that?

PICKS & PANS with Sina Frifra

Sina (see picture third from left) was a pro-ducer and location manager on Astérix & Obélix: God Save Britannia, in which Asterix crosses the channel to help second-cousin Anticlimax to send Julius Caesar back to Rome. Sina picked the professional crew, studios, facilities and locations in Hungary but panned the length of time it can take to get things done. ‘It’s a long time to get answers - you know the chief has to ask another chief who has to ask another, and so on’. The cast of Astérix included the famous actor, winemaker and gourmand Gerard Depardieu, who did not seek out French restaurants in Budapest, because he prefers to go to the hotel kitchen and cook for himself. The one place he did visit and did enjoy was Nobu. As you will already know (unless you live under a rock), this upscale chain was started by none other than Robert DeNiro, who visited Budapest for the opening. Sina confessed that he and most of the French crew found Hungarian food a little too heavy, but he was really impressed by Hungarian wines.

This legacy continues

with a themed

attraction

Season of the Witch

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PICKS & PANS with Lili Bordán

If friends come to Budapest, Hungarian American actress Lili Bordán (Battlestar Galactica: Blood and Chrome, Max’s Midnight Movies) recommends making your own drink at the Brody House honour bar and then making a night of it in one of their beautiful rooms. ‘Don’t run out before the sun rises Cinderella’, she advises ‘because there’s nothing like reading the morning paper, while sipping fresh squeezed OJ and sampling the assortment of home-made jams on warm buttery croissants atop the crisp white table cloth of the sun-drenched dining room here.’ On the other side of the Danube on Hidegkuti ut is the Southern French inspired Cafe Provence. Lili likes to come here for a cappuccino and a tarte-tatin in the morning and stay through the night for drinks by the bar. If the weather is nice, she will even play a little Baci ball in the garden and eat tapas for lunch on the terrace. The fact that Lili’s father Gábor and his charming wife Gabriella run this lovely cafe/bistro doubtless helps with the ‘at home’ factor.

With so many films and TV shows (particu-larly historical mini-series) with multiple speaking parts being shot in Hungary, flying actors in and out especially from London, is both convenient and cost-effective. Yet there is even a small troupe of English-speaking Hungarian and expatriate actors living here who you will see popping up in various produc-tions.

But with what about the future for Hungarian cinema? As in films scripted and shot by Hungarians, telling Hungarian sto-ries. At a Screenwriting Masterclass with avuncular Hollywood bad boy Joe Eszterhaz, producer Andy Vajna sounded as if he was crying out for good scripts. Born Budapest in 1944 and émigré to the USA in 1956, Andrew G. Vajna’s first involvement in the film indus-try was the operation of movie the-atres in the Far East. To put it mildly, he went onto bigger things, later founding a company with Mario Kassar called Carolco whose logo you may remember on a lot of mov-ies from the 1990s. (It was the C that looked like a sound-wave.) Anyway, Carolco went on to produce endless blockbuster movies, including the Rambo movies and multiple Terminator titles. To cut a long story, the man has 41 pro-ducer credits on IMDB. And these aren’t all high octane action films either. Vajna for instance was a producer on several smaller, quirkier pictures that have become minor classics, films such Tombstone and Angel Heart. Also, more art house fare such as Mountains of the Moon and Berlinale

Golden Bear winner Music Box. So, you have to figure he would know something about making movies! So it was that on on January 15, 2011, the Hungarian government appointed Andy Vajna government commis-sioner for the Renewal of the National Film Industry. He is responsible for the preserva-tion of Hungarian Film of course, and even more excitingly, the development of new fea-ture films, feature-length animations, docu-mentaries and a diverse range of other film-related issues. He says and I quote: ‘We’re seeking to support high-concept commer-cially viable films which reflect Hungarian tra-ditions with audience appeal. The Fund’s aim is both to win back local audience and to secure recognition abroad.’ Funding deci-sions announced on the Hungarian film web-

site recently have included develop-ment money for Viharsarok (A Land of Storms) a story of forbidden love by Ádám Császi, and the intriguingly titled Liza and the Fox Fairy from director Károly Ujj Mészáros. Fox fair-ies are female demons from Japanese folklore. Liza, a nurse living in Budapest, suspects she may be

one of them. The mind boggles!Meanwhile Dunawood is still in its infancy.

Indeed the 20% tax rebate goes up for review by the European commission at the end of 2013. Adam Goodman is just one industry expert that believes its continuation is vital to the future of the business here. Without it yes, films would still be made in Hungary, but it would just become one more destination among many. It would seem a great shame

for the huge sound stages to sit empty and for the enormous opportunities as a training ground for Hungarian crew and technicians to go by the wayside. So let’s do what we do in the face of any cliff-hanger: cross our fingers and hope for a happy ending.

In any case, if you want to drink in Budapest’s indefinable but palpable cinemat-ic style, just start as we began our story - with a stroll through this magnificent, scarred yet still hopeful city. Because, even if you don’t come across a film set, the streets are still full of drama.

Cut!

Dunawood is still in

its infancy

Andy Vajna

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The city’s beautiful old cemeteries merit a visit any time, but especially on November 1, when locals spruce things up and leave behind thousands of burning candles. Farkasréti Cemetery is a particularly inviting spot for an autumn stroll. Photos and story by Adrienne Gallov.

A day withthe dead

A mid the undulating hills of Buda, Farkasréti Cemetery is a forested patch stretching over 72 acres. This

is the final resting place of some of the city’s more famous daughters and sons, as well as a wonderful spot for an autumn stroll.

Kerepesi Cemetry in Pest may be the capital’s most famous final resting place and Új köztemető is the largest. But verdant Farkasréti is arguably the city’s most atmospheric cemetery, especially on November 1, when the living of Budapest visit the cemeteries to dress up the homes of the dead, leaving behind flowers and thousands of twinkling candles.

One of the first monuments a visitor to the cemetery will see is Veres Kálmán’s statue of a griffin, erected in 2008 with a memorial plaque explaining that this statue is meant to protect the memory of those who are buried abroad. With the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle, the griffin fulfills the role of protector over graves in the legends of the Etruscan, Greek and Roman mythologies – while in the Christian religion, it symbolises resurrection.

To the right of the entrance is a wall full of memorial plaques, for those who chose cremation instead of a traditional burial. All the other roads leading from the entrance meander through quiet paths, sheltered by chestnut, pine and oak trees and over-grown in parts with vines and other veg-etation. The crunch of dead leaves can be

heard underfoot as you walk among the headstones. Some of the graves

are so old that they are hardly visible under the green layer

of creeping ivy. Time has also left a heavy mark on many of the wooden crosses sticking out of the low mounds over many gravesites. Other graves

are marked by shiny white stone, and still look brand

new.Among the names on these

stones are many famous ones. For example, there’s classical composer Béla Bartók (1881-1945), whose black marble tomb, created by sculptor Miklós Borsos, resembles a stylised harp. Bartók’s collabo-rator in preserving traditional Hungarian sounds, composer Zoltán Kodály (1882-1967), is also buried here, in a family grave

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guarded by a white-marble classical-style statue of a woman in robes. A third famous musician, Katalin Karády, the diva who was Hungary’s answer to Edith Piaf, is buried here in a grave marked by a statue of a half-burnt candle.

A more recent show-business arrival is comedian Géza Hofi (1936-2002), who was known for his harsh political and social criti-cism and who was brave enough to poke fun at the communist-era leadership. His grave was adorned with bronze statuary showing his shoes, robe and a laurel wreath, but, after these were stolen in the summer of 2007, they were replaced by similar statues made of stone.

Also arriving recently is György Kolonics (1972-2008), the Olympic gold-medal canoeist and 15-time world champion who died while training for the 2008 Olympics. He is in good company here in Olimpia park, a separate area in the centre of the cemetery, where many of Hungary’s great Olympic cham-pions and prominent athletes are buried. Another famous son resting there is László Papp (1926-2003), the boxer who won gold in three separate Olympics and was undefeated professionally. Papp, who gave his name to a sport-and-concert arena in Budapest, rests under a black tombstone, adorned with a pair of white stone boxing gloves.

In the southern end of Farkasréti sits the spacious Israelite cemetery, built along the side of a hill. It was opened in 1895, as a sepa-rate cemetery, and was incorporated into Farkasréti later. Most of the gravestones at the entrance to this section belong to rabbis, leaders of various congregations and can-tors. Further inside are the tombs of many famous Hungarian Jews, such as György G Dénes, the poet, songwriter and composer, or László Vágó (1875-1933), the renowned architect whose works included Heroes’ Temple behind the Central Synagogue and the Gutenberg building on Gutenberg tér.

Farkasréti Cemetery was opened in 1894, on a site where some wanted to build a resort. At the time, the city’s smaller ceme-teries were filling up, so public health consid-erations won out and the cemetery was built here. Now Farkasréti itself is full, though there is still some space left in the area called Angyalok Kertje (Garden of Angels), one of the highest points of the cemetery. The views from this location are stunning, offer-ing spectacular vistas of a bustling city full of life – from a quieter space set aside for the dead.XII. Németvölgyi út 99 (248 3520/ 248 3522) Tram 59/bus 8, 102. Daily 7.30am-5pm. Entry free.

Visit cemeteriesOn the evening of November 1, cemeter-ies in Budapest and around the country become beautiful places to visit: families clear up growth around graves, bring bunches of flowers and leave behind can-dles that light up the gloom.

The occasion is officially called Mindenszentek Napja (All Saints’ Day), and it essentially started with the Catholic holiday of All Saints’ Day, the traditional day for remembering saints and dead children. But in the case of Hungary it has gone secular.

It was even remembered under commu-nism, if unofficially, and there was no prob-lem with visiting cemeteries en masse on that day. Shortly after the regime change of 1989, November 1 was declared a na-tional holiday, and it is a day off for most workers in Hungary.

Mindenszentek has become the occasion for sprucing up the final resting place of deceased relatives, regardless of a family’s religious affiliation.

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KerepesiTaking a pleasant stroll through beautiful Kerepesi cemetery, Budapest’s best-known final resting ground, is like wandering through history – and not only because it contains the graves of the famous people who give their names to the streets of the capital. Some of Kerepesi’s simpler tombstones and mass memorials are poignant testament to this city’s turbulent past.

Just past the main entrance on the right, arranged in a circle around a minimalist stone sarcophagus, are several dozen small, near cube-shaped headstones with communist stars carved on their tops. These are graves of peo-ple who died defending Soviet communism in 1956 (1 on map). The inscription has been scraped off by vandals. Just behind this memo-rial is the plot for Soviet soldiers (2) who died fighting in Budapest.

Follow the lane from the main entrance, past

the sombre pyramid for Hungarians lost in World War II, to reach two impressive arcades (3) with mausoleums containing the rich, and a few famous. The arcades end at the circular monument for Mór Jókai. Also here are the slightly outsized likenesses of actress Lujza Blaha – on a bed with an old musician and young cherubs grieving – and moody-looking poet Endre Ady. Beyond this is the artists’ par-cel (4), where writers such as Attila József rest near painters such as Mihály Munkácsy.

Sandor Deák (5), who compromised with the Austrians to win some freedoms for Hungary, gives his name to Budapest’s most central square and rests in the very centre of Kerepesi. Adjacent is the eerie-looking gravestone for Antall József (6), the first prime minister after communism, who died in 1993. His burial site is protected by horsemen in pagan outfits and people bearing crucifixes, all half-covered by a big blanket.

Another recent memorial, for those who died opposing Soviet occupation in 1956 (7), was erected in 2006. Graves around the memorial mostly belong to participants in the 1956 Uprising, and at the back of this parcel, 12 marble slabs contain the names, ages and professions of people who were killed in 1956 and buried, or dumped, in this cemetery.

This memorial sits physically, and politi-cally, opposite one of the largest monuments in the cemetery, the Pantheon of the Workers’ Movement (8), with tall metal Socialist Realist statues of weary workers propping each other up. They face six free-standing walls with engravings of struggles against oppression on one side and names of dead on the other.

Nearby is the relatively simple red marble grave of a member of the workers’ movement,

Rest in BudapestSerene beauty awaits in the city’s old burial grounds. We recommend some of the more interesting cemeteries around town.

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János Kádár (9), the communist who became prime minister after making a deal with the Soviets in 1956 before making Hungary one of the more liberated in the east bloc.

Opposite rests another former leader, Mihály Károlyi (10), a would-be democratiser who ran the country briefly in 1918. His sar-cophagus is under a round roof with amazing acoustics. Stand in the middle and whisper for a creepy echo.

The massive memorial nearby commemo-rates patriot Lajos Kossuth (11), activist for Hungarian freedom during and after the failed revolution of 1848.The Jewish cemetery (12) is cut off from Kerepesi by a tall wall. The entrance, at Salgótar-jáni út 6, is open Mon-Fri. Sun 8am-3pm.VIII. Fiumei út 16 (323 5231). Tram 24, 28. Daily 7.30am-5.30pm.

Kozma utcai cemeteryOut near the airport in distant Pest, Új köztemető, the largest burial ground in the city, is also home to one of Europe’s biggest Jewish cemeteries. Known as the Kozma utcai cem-etery, with a separate entrance from the main cemetery here, Budapest’s biggest Jewish graveyard opened in the early 1890s, and has since become the burial spot for more than 300,000 Jews.

It’s worth a visit to see mausoleums and headstones that include fine examples of seces-sionism, Hungary’s answer to art nouveau. You can also get a glimpse of history: the memorials here are testament to the varying fortunes of Budapest’s Jews, who have, at different times, been nobility and Holocaust victims.

Prominently positioned along the front end of the cemetery is a row of imposing tombs and

mausoleums, many of which attract visitors interested in historic art and architecture. At the end of the 19th century, about a fifth of the city’s population was Jewish, and Jews were among the more important and influential citi-zens of a city that was on the rise. In recognition of their contributions to society, the Habsburg rulers granted nobility to 350 Jewish families. The big memorials at the front of the cemetery were built for wealthy Jews when their commu-nity was at the height of its power.

Other parts of the cemetery remind us of more difficult times for Jews. Olympic gold medallist and architect Alfréd Hajós, who is also buried in this cemetery, oversaw the construction of the Holocaust memorial here. Its tall white stone slabs are inscribed with the names of Holocaust victims. Additional names have been written in by hand, by the victims’ families.

During World War II, Budapest had a Jewish ghetto for the first time, as Jews were forced to live in a cramped area centred around VII. Klauzál tér. This memorial includes the remains of about 2,000 people who lived in that ghetto and were killed in the last months of the war.

X. Kozma utca 6 (265 2458). Tram 37 (Mon-Fri) from Blaha Lujza tér, or tram 28 then bus 68. Mon-Fri, Sun 8am-4pm (except Jewish holidays).

Csörsz utcai cemetery You’d barely notice it walking past, but behind a non-descript concrete wall on a small street in Buda lies the tiny Csörsz utcai Jewish Orthodox cemetery. This ten-by-100-metre plot contains 1,360 graves, marked by stones engraved in Hebrew.

Although it’s crowded, the order of the graves remains strictly traditional, with men and women buried separately. Also because of tradition, the gravestones are tall and face to the east. And it’s an exclusive club: only Orthodox Jews who lived in Budapest are buried here.

One part of the cemetery is the path of the Kohanim, who were the descendants of priests. Their title inspired the modern surname Cohen, though not every Cohen is considered a priest. Tradition holds that a Cohen should never be close to the graves, so their path is kept as far from the graves as possible in this cramped space. One corner of the plot holds headstones that were taken here from elsewhere in Buda, to protect them from vandalism, but most headstones here sit over actual graves.

In 1946, the cemetery also erected a memo-rial for the victims of a 1945 massacre in Maross Utcai Zsidó Kórház, a Jewish hospital where members of the Hungarian fascist Arrow Cross party forced 130 patients and 24 staff members to gather in the backyard of the hospital and massacred them ruthlessly. An annual commemoration of the terrible slaugh-ter is held in this location.

Csörsz utcai cemetery is all that remains of a larger cemetery that once spread out over the adjacent area. One of Buda’s oldest Jewish cemeteries, it was filled after World War II, and hasn’t hosted a burial in years.

There’s a caretaker near the grounds, but phoning the Jewish Orthodox community before visiting can be a good idea.

XII. Csörsz utca 55 (351 0524). Tram 59. Mon-Fri, Sun 8am-4pm (except Jewish holidays)

Fiumei út

Salgótarjáni út

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For fine dining restaurants (who traditionally present their more elegant face in the evening) deciding what to do during the day has long presented a

dilemma. Should they prepare menus to attract office workers within say a mile radius, interested in downing lunch in less than an hour? Or should they focus on those lucky souls who can take the time for quality dining during the day? The third option is not to prepare lunch at all, concentrating on dinner, which is the most important meal of the day for most upscale eat-eries.

There are places which have tried both of these approaches and still not found a suitable daily solution, while others have found a winning formula and faithfully stick to it. Most lunch-time diners prefer to be able to choose from different appetizers, main dishes and desserts, but there are of course plenty of kitchens who simply offer one fixed menu every day of the week, and manage to keep their customers coming back for more. Typically with fixed price lunches, cof-

fee and mineral water, and perhaps even a glass of wine will be included in the price, which means the 12-15% service fee will not hurt so badly. In any event it is wise to keep an eye on what it is and isn’t included in the bill.

Arany KaviárAs soon as you walk in the door, you have a feeling this is going to be some-thing special. The décor and atmo-sphere transports you through coun-tries and centuries and back into old Russia’s tsarist past. Arany Kaviár has built its reputation carefully over the last few years, and when they make any changes, they do so discretely and with care. Chef Árpád Győrffy recently transferred from Alabárdos Étterem and has developed the image of the restaurant even further together with Szása Nyíri, who is already a local leg-end. You can find real treasures here even at lunchtime, choosing from the Russian Bistro menu (3/4 dishes of your choice Ft4,900/5,900), the Russian caviar menu (Ft12,000) or the Lunch menu (in this case you sim-ply get the full menu and choose the dishes yourself).

Pelmeni, borsch, soljanka, sirniki,

varenje – you can almost taste the words, but not only Russian national foods are on the table. We’d recom-mend the lamb prepared in two differ-ent ways with vegetable casserole (Ft7,900) and citrus textures (Ft1,690) from the dessert menu to turn a simple weekday lunch into something truly memorable.

I. Ostrom utca 19 (201 6737/ www.aranykaviar.hu). Lunch: Mon-Sun noon-3pm.

Csalogány 26This restaurant has definitely been part of Budapest’s gastro-revolution. Not just wonderful dishes, but several talented chefs have emerged from under the guidance of Balázs Pető, and wherever these chefs have gone since, they owe their success in the preparation of serious cuisine to their formative experiences at Csalogány 26.

You will find their entire repertoire lined up and ready by noon, when you can choose from menus number I and II (4/8 dishes Ft8,000/12,000), or from a fixed menu written on a board (3 dishes, Ft,2500). Within the daily menus main courses are optional,

Food & Drink

Lunchtime is a special time for the office worker, almost regardless of what they have for lunch! But what if we told you that the meal in the middle of the day can be more exciting than a sandwich eaten on the run? Time Out Budapest has put together a list of lunch places which evoke the type of excitement usually only reserved for quality dining in the evening.

Gourmet lunch

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usually a choice of meat or fish, while the soup (chicken soup with vermicelli for example) and the dessert (rice pudding with quince) are always fixed items.

I. Csalogány utca 26 (201 78 92/www.csalogany26.hu). Lunch: Tue-Sat noon-3pm.

Gresham RestaurantThe Gresham palace is one of the most splendid buildings of Budapest. In its onetime residential tower lived the Hungarian actress Ida Turay, who when she heard the building was being converted to a hotel, stated that they could only take her out of it in a coffin. However, someone eventually convinced her to leave.

So much for history, now let’s see what we can do here today with Ft4,900 at lunchtime. For this price you get a fixed menu together with a glass of wine or lemonade as well as a coffee. Every day of the week is dedi-cated to its own specialty, one day the menu may be filled with fish- (tradi-tional fish&chips), another day pasta- (homemade ravioli filled with goose liver and goose breast polished with five spices), on yet another day roast

meat- (knuckles with onions and pota-toes and pickles), so you can choose which day is the most appealing to your palate

V. Széchenyi István tér 5-6 (268 000/www.fourseasons.com/buda-pest/dining). Lunch&Dinner Sun-Thur noon-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm.

MÁK BistroUntil the opening of MÁK Bistro no other place quite like this existed in Budapest. After a certain amount of the usual chef-migration and rota-tion, the wooden spoon is now firmly in the hands of Kata Tálas (ex-Laci!Konyha?). After this change in early summer, everything is now in full swing again, so we were quite excited to witness the fusion of the two brands (MÁK/Laci!Konyha?). We put all our preconceptions behind us, and went to MAK with the uncompli-cated desire to enjoy a good lunch.

With the set menu (2/3 course Ft2,800/3,500), the main course is the optional element, with the begin-ning and the end of the meal fixed (appetizer or soup and dessert). The menu is different every day, full of ideas and playfulness and so making a choice wasn’t easy as we would both wanted to eat mussels with curry and cashew and afterwards have the chestnut risotto shimeji. Bread and olives cost an additional Ft300, so if you choose them, calculate it into the bill.

V. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 (06 30 723 9383 mobile/www.makbistro.hu). Lunch: Tue-Sat noon-3pm.

KnrdyThe downtown section of Budapest’s gastro-scene is concentrated more and more in just a few blocks, such as along Sas and Október 6 streets, which have been the setting for several new easteries opening this fall. Such is the case with the newly opened Knrdy. In a version with more vowels, the same company runs an eatery in MOM Park, under the name of Konrády Foods (they also have a butcher’s shop and a bakery in Buda). It was therefore to be expected that went it came to meat dishes, they would serve only the best quality at reasonable prices, so it was interesting to see what the restaurant’s programme would be for lunch. The answer is the Ft3,200 lunch, which means one main course daily. One day this might be angler fish with sauce and garnish and another day Argentinean steak with salad, served with a basket of French bread with salty butter and a pitcher of water.

V. Október 6. utca 15 (788 1685/www.knrdy.com). Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2pm.

NobuThis restaurant is clearly doing all it takes to serve everyone’s needs, from the separate Hungarian style menu to its hosting of all sorts of social events, to their creation of special menus for various festivals, and the drawcard for us on our most recent visit, their daily business menu.

The weekly changing offer for Ft4,900 concentrates on two different lines, one with fish, and one with meat, but we preferred to sample the former.

Once the volume of the music is turned down, we are able to enjoy our butter-fish-tempura salad and tea. The yusus salad with honey prepares us to contin-ue, and in the meantime, we can’t help but notice that among the international clientele, there are people here from almost all the continents.

The vegetable calamari arrives on top of a rice-bed; it is a hearty meal but not unpleasantly heavy. This is part of what good seafood is all about; one can eat with zest for quite a long time. For something with an agreeably sour taste, one can try the baby egg-plant and sweet and sour marinated icicle radish. For the finish, we decide upon the classic recipe of the restau-rant’s founder, Matsuhisa melon brulée, which is a type of watermelon sorbet on a vanilla base, made with plum-wine foam.

V. Erzsébet tér 7-8 (429 4242/www.noburestaurants.com). Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-3.30pm.

OnyxThere’s only one place in town where you can enjoy a Michelin-star quality lunch, and that’s Onyx. The other Michelin star holder Costes is relocat-ing - and even before that they stopped serving lunches. Onyx served up a great lunch even in those pre-Michelin star days. Their basic menu (2/3 courses Ft4,490/4990), does not include items such as water, cof-fee or a 15 percent service fee. But you get what you pay for, and when the chestnut cream soup arrives along-side toast with goat cheese, well, we remember why we like autumn so much. The saibling fish marches in with a grilled Salad Romaine and homemade pasta filled with veal cheeks. Both the seasoning and the fish are of an equally high standard, indeed the whole thing is a symphony of fine dining in the middle of the day.

The galeeny breast is paired up with a wonderfully coloured red beet risot-to, and the airy freshness of the vege-tables seems to veritably waltz around on the plate. We finish the whole thing off with a ‘Somlói XXI. Century’, a con-temporary spin on a traditional Hungarian dessert..

V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8 (06 30 508 0622 mobile/www.onyxrestaurant.hu). Lunch: Tue-Fri noon-1.30pm.

Onyx

MÁK Bistro

Nobu Arany Kaviár

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our favourites. The citrus flavored spinach is crunchy and almost explo-sively fresh, while the polenta gets its quivering texture from the cottage cheese. We take increasingly smaller mouthfuls so that they will last longer.

Meanwhile, the bread, which arrived in a small wooden box, is also perfect, the crust is crisp, and the dough is light. Serving the courses takes time, as almost everything mer-its different plates; we had all kinds of tableware ranging from extra light, thin-walled glass dishes to the heavy stone dish. This eclectic effect has apparently involved detailed plan-ning. Shapes change too: coffee (Ft450) is accompanied by milk in a square shaped jug.

Laci!Pecsenye? uses a smiley in one of its slogans (fast food – in the best sense :)’ and in the same spirit we definitely look forward to our next visit with a smile.

Laci!Pecsenye? V. Sas utca 11 (06 70 370 7474 mobile/www.lacipecse-nye.eu). Mon-Sun noon-midnight.

Meat stall at Szent István tér

Even the publicity photos taken before the opening of this meat stall suggest-ed some serious adventures in store for carnivores. The images were clear-

Laci!Pecsenye?

ly focused on meat and not on mod-els. Instead of the usual perfume, bag or watch, here a leg, bald-rib or entrails were presented as objects of desire.

The good news is that Laci!Pecsenye? offers up one of Budapest’s best value for money

lunch experiences. It would be quite difficult to prepare a lunch of such quality for under Ft3,000 at home, but they have managed to do it here, where you can enjoy two courses for as little as Ft2,800.

At the previous location, Laci!Pecsenye? had fewer tables, but at its downtown location, the space is far bigger and the turnover is expected to increase accordingly. It will be inter-esting to see how gourmet enthusi-asts from Újlipótváros will adapt to the spacious and bright spaces of Szent István tér, and if indeed the number of the restaurant chain’s followers will grow.

Our English fish pie (Ft2,200) is robust and filling, and sits on a parsley velouté in a smaller, heat-resistant dish. The mangalica terrine (Ft1,800) and side dishes of mustard, sprouts and crunchy vegetables arrive in a stone dish and all merge harmonious-ly. Just out of curiosity, we try out two other side dishes: spinach (Ft750) and polenta (Ft750), and unexpected-ly, both compete with the mains to be

★★★★★

Húspatika

Mangalica delicacies

Mangalica is now synonymous with fine Hungarian gastronomy. From samples offered for tasting in festival tents, it has since developed into a hugely successful product worldwide. The meat of the native Hungarian pork often finds its way into the world famous Spanish ham, as it is the clos-est known relation of the ‚Iberico’.

Truth be told, Mangalica has its Spanish connection to thank for its last minute rescue, inasmuch as the pig stock of close to six hundred thou-sand heads at the end of the 19th century was down to barely two hun-dred thousand by the beginning of the 90’s. But lo and behold, these days the curly haired pig lives and thrives, with fully-fledged festivals and dedi-cated shops set-up for its meat.

Húspatika, one of the flagships, started as a uniquely new concept - a

fusion of a butcher’s shop and a fast food joint. And frankly, who can resist a few mouthfuls while looking at all of those sausages, bacon, ham and salami displayed on the counter? The spectacular kitchen produces roast-ing palm-sized spare ribs (Ft1,590), the ‘100 times better than a Big Mac’ richly packed sandwich (Ft1,390), or the newest addition, fried spare ribs. But in the daily offers menu – and especially at the more important gas-tro festivals - the Húspatika staff

(headed by Attila Veégh) always comes out with something quirky; they have already made breaded fried sausages and pork head cheese, just like lemon-spiced sausages, so it’s worth looking out for them at festivals.

The shop (open from 8am to mid-night), offers croissant (Ft200) and coffee (Illy, Ft350) in the morning, lunch during the day and adventurous meat dishes in the evenings. Naturally, they offer meat-free dishes as well, such as grilled cheese salad (Ft1,590) among others.

Should you want to take home the experience, do not pass up the smoked bacon (our favorite is the almost white, pink-tinged one). However, if you are looking for a gift you should stock up on some Chocolitza, because the dark chocolate stuffed with Mangalica crackling and flavoured with Rosemary or chili pepper is a recipe for instant gratification.

And back to the Spanish connec-tion, this is the only place that offers Monte Nevado ham, made from Hungarian Mangalica but cured in Spain.

The process in brief is that the Mangalica pigs are reared and butch-ered in Hungary. The meat is then tak-en to Spain, where it is dried and cured for at least two years. The Spanish winds, Spanish salt and expertise turn the meat of the pigs reared with Hungarian forage into ham, and then it returns to the Hungarian marketplace. This is a real co-operative effort. Beside the meats, the shop also offers other delicacies, oils, pastes, jams, honeys; so there is no easy escape for those who venture into the shop at Bartók Béla út. And we have not even mentioned the wines and pálinka yet…

Húspatika XI. Bartók Béla út 50 (782 4166/www.huspatika.hu). Mon-Sat 8am-midnight.

★★★★★

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Murci Borszoba

Regulated decadence

As the younger brother of Cyrano at Kristóf tér, Murci Borszoba evidently intends to move in a different direc-

tion to his sibling. Naturally, there are similarities between the two brothers and their eateries, but the blasting music that assaults the ears immediately upon entering this place certainly points to their differ-ences.

We’re always slightly suspicious of establishments that describe them-selves as ‘youthful’ and ‘bohemian’ because those are labels that really have to be earned,. What we were most interested in was their oft-men-tioned wallet friendliness, so right away we asked for a ‘nice price’ menu (Ft950). Much to our regret, though the website advertises it, this menu is not yet available, and the waiter had no idea when it would be.

We looked at the main menu any-way, where we were happy to find warm salads which, puzzling to us, are offered at very few places in Budapest. We chose the salad named after the restaurant. It had a glorious dressing, described as honeyed green tea on the menu. It was unforgettable mixed with the flavour of the accom-panying vegetables, cheese and fruits. On their online menu they themselves insert entries like ‘heav-enly’ beside various courses – surely however it is best to let the guests decide?

Murci calls itself a borszoba (wine room) and true enough, looking around many decorative elements and internal design solutions indicate just that: the eclectic tapestry on the floor, a somewhat kitsch chandelier on the ceiling and so on. Snug cor-ners, a discarded vintage Frigidaire, and retro features somehow combine to make it all a bit short on warmth.

Among the 36 cocktails offered at the Murci their own brand is of course

very much present. A ‘Murci’ is made of pálinka, Champagne and pome-granate syrup (Ft1,490) There are 5 types of water but only one beer Dreher (Ft990/0,5l), but to be fair, the place is not billed as a ‘beer hall’

We browsed through the wine list, where we could choose from the best wines by region Szekszárd, Eger, Sopron, Villány, a Balaton, Tokaj-Hegyalja, Etyek, Neszmély or Somló (Ft760/980 - 1,4 dl). The list had inter-national wines as well from New Zealand and Napa Valley (Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc, Robert Mondavi Cabarnet Sauvignon) and the presence of 3 types of sparkling (Jekl Flóra - Il Primo; Gere Attila -Frici; Légli Géza - Habzó Piros) is commend-able.

The homemade pasties (Ft1300/2590) and crunchy pizzas (Ft1350/2390) seemed attractive enough to warrant another visit, while we highly recommend the warm sal-ads. Perhaps next time we will try some of the fare under the “lovely nos-talgia dishes” heading. Deep fried bread (Ft1,500), hake (Ft1,690), gou-lash (Ft1,290) and pancake filled with cottage cheese and raisins (Ft790) all bring back the small buffet world of Lake Balaton, and the days when almost all Hungarian food was com-fort food.

Murci Borszoba V. Kristóf tér 7 (266 4747/murciborszobabisztro.citynet.hu). Mon-Sun 8am-midnight.

★★★★★

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lamb and rice placed on our plate are all delicious. The chutney is nice and spicy; the lamb looks soft and it tastes just as tender as one could hope for.

The restaurant claims that ‘they serve a world of tastes inspired by many continents’, and perhaps this is where the overall concept becomes confusing. Besides the decoration which resembles an exotic shrine, the selection of music is highly eclectic, ranging from Italian pop to a disco adaptation of sitar folk music. The same applies for the kitchen. Presumably an international chain must be understandable in every city, which also implies it dare not assert any particular regional or national identity. There is sushi on the menu (Nigiri sushi assortment: 12 pieces/Ft7,000 and a Maki sushi assort-ment: 10 pieces/Ft3,600), which is not Japanese, as well as nem (Ft2,200), which is not Vietnamese or naan, which is not Indian or even Asian. In Budapest it is typically small places further away from the centre of the city and popular among locals which cook such dishes best.

The Buddha however is worth trying it if you go along with the concept of mixing things of top quality together to make an excellent dish. And don’t miss the bar on the first floor.

Buddha-Bar Restaurant V. Váci utca 34 (799 7300/www.buddhabar-hotel.hu). Mon-Sun from 7pm till late.

Delicate fusion in the twilight of awe

Internationally known brands opening establishments in Budapest, like the Buddha Bar Hotel, can only be good for the city. This chain, which has also opened hotels in London and St. Petersburg, recently moved into one of the grandest buildings in Budapest, known as the Klotild Palace.

Among the two twin buildings along Ferenciek tere Matild and Klotild, Klotild now has the upper hand, since after restoration it has become much prettier from the outside. Its interior spaces are by no means homoge-

Buddha-Bar Restaurant

neous, since the building offers a vari-ety of functions for guests, including a spa, bar, restaurant, hotel, conference rooms and even a rooftop bar, all of which have been adapted to their respective functions with varying degrees of success.

For example, it is so dark in the Buddha Bar Restaurant that it’s more than simply an exotic effect. It is even difficult for the waiter to find a place for the plates on the table or to work out our bill. The plates are also slightly dark, so we can only guess what shade our soup or curry is. We choose to rely on our other senses to make the experience more rewarding. The emblematic Buddha statue is only vis-

ible from the tables in the middle of the restaurant and not from those to the side. So it is really up to customers whether or not to have dinner in the aura of its ambience.

We choose the discreet screen and start with tea. They have run out of jas-mine tea, so we go for green tea (Hojicha, Ft980). It is served with just sweetener and white sugar. We are not expecting an elaborate tea cere-mony straight out of the movies but a wider variety of additional extras would have been nice. The waiter looks uncertain and not very enthusi-astic when taking our order. We learn that he is not keen on eel and finds it hard to imagine that any customer would be.

We continue with a reliable Tom Yam soup (Ft2,800), cooked well with king prawns and squid. Having started with fish, we now turn to meat dishes and decide that a good lamb curry (Ft4,500) will suit us just fine. The mango chutney, the small portion of

Villa Bagatelle

Up at the villa

Villa bagatelle stands high above its surroundings like a fairytale palace. It has been decorated with outstanding care, so every design and interior mag-azine should go on a pilgrimage here and write their own Bagatelle report. It is reassuring to read in the neat menu that ‘All our food is produced with base material coming from an organic farm or primary producers we personally know’. Responsible and ethical farm-ing is the most desirable way for pro-ducers to move toward. Finally becom-ing a trend in Hungary as well, more often, the base material of different food is illustrated with a photograph, indicating its origin.

The restaurant is perfectly suited for relaxation, and thus having a lot of time, we tried several things. The bar-

ley-pearl risotto (Ft2,490) and aspara-gus cream soup (Ft990) bring out their respective puritan character, while the creamed cauliflower soup with goat cheese and chickpeas (Ft1,290) delin-eates adventurous trends. We drank raspberry juice (Ft490/3dl), tasted macarones (Ft220/piece) from the cookie section designed together with one of the finest Hungarian confection-ers László Mihályi and also drank a fine coffee (espresso, Ft390) – everything was cool. Unsuspectingly, we also sat idly with a cup of green tea, not know-ing they had brought the most expen-sive one in the house (Moli hua Zhu Cha with jasmine, Ft950). However, that was okay, next time we will consult beforehand with the excellent serving staff.

Villa Bagatelle XI. Németvölgyi út 17 (213 4190/www.villa-bagatelle.hu). Mon-Fri 8am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm.

Tamp & Pull

Real coffee – pure and simple

If you venture in and they ask if you’ve ever been there before, be sure to say ‘yes’ if you just want a coffee - and not a seminar. The part when you stare at the lady at the counter for ages, while she drones on about the coffee you thought you would drink, is alright. But sometimes all you want is your coffee, and the sooner the better, so you are unsure whether you are you expected to take notes, or an exam at the end of the all that information, or what?

But joking aside, we rejoice at the budding business of coffee shops which serve real coffee. It is a plea-sure to now have Tamp & Pull among

them, especially to offer some tactful education to the neighbour-ing university people.

What is more, Tamp & Pull is close to our hearts because its two artisan founders, the many-time cham-pions Molnár Attila and Török

Ádám, have represented Hungary in numerous international competitions and are also highly-respected, well-known professionals. They built and renovated the small Czuczor utca shop themselves. Anyone who has ever heard Molnár Attila talk about the coffee machines so dear to his heart can imagine the enthusiasm he put into the building of the shop. For those who did not have the pleasure, we can just say that empathy and love abound.

French press? Aeropress? Kalita? Chemex? HarioV60? Just come and learn from the Tamp team and then use these terms with confidence. Espresso and ristretto (Ft370), double espresso, cappuccino (Ft470), latte (Ft520). Sandwiches, fresh yoghurts and salads are also available.

Tamp & Pull IX. Czuczor utca 3 (06 30 456 7618 mobile). Mon-Fri 7am-8pm; Sat 9am-6pm.

★★★★★

★★★★★

★★★★★

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Spíler

★★★★★Gourmet Snacks in the Pub

With a lively atmosphere on two floors, Spíler welcomes guests with bright lights and a spectacular interior design.

Although every available source of information says that it is open from the morning, we came during the day and found it closed and had to wait 20 minutes until it opened.

We actually didn’t mind this, because it gave us the opportunity to listen in on some of the instructions being given, such as the way the chef handed out tasks and checked the menu with colleagues. On the way to the toilet, we even managed to catch

the manager instructing the staff around him.

While waiting for the kitchen to open, we checked out the drinks menu and realised that the place pays homage to many different communi-ties. It includes an excellent selection of Hungarian craft beers, which we have only ever come across in small bars or local pubs which also function as shops and serve drinks on a small wooden table. These beers are also on tap in this pub, located in the grand Gozsdu Court, alongside beers brewed at the Békésszentadrás, Győrzámolyi, Rizmajer and Jászdózsa craft breweries.

The menu also looked promising, especially since it was designed by Zsolt Litauszki, who works as a chef in the Castle at the restaurants ‘21’, ‘Pierrot’ and ‘Pest-Buda’. Working out what delicious snacks would be tempt-ing to punters that are basically on a pub crawl is an interesting challenge. It may very well turn out that drinking will not be the highlight when having lunch (served until 5pm) or dinner at Spíler. Home-made sausages, lemon chicken and pork chops in Tokaj wine (Ft1,170), beef burger with cheese (Ft1,380) sweet and spicy pork burger (Ft1,270) are some of the dishes on the menu.

Spíler VII. Király utca 13 (878 1320/www.spilerbp.hu). Mon-Wed 11.30am-1am; Thu-Sat 11.30am-2am; Sun 11.30am-midnight.

Kispiac Bistro

Meat above the counter

The bib almost instantaneously became the trade-mark of Kispiac Bistro, located just a few buildings away from Hold Street Market. Managers wearing suits, market shoppers pulling trolley bags and local regular customers enjoy the gravy together in what is a mix of a tradition-al delicatessen, butcher’s shop and an excellent little corner bistro.

The board filled with the offers of the day; namely soups (Ft400), des-serts (Ft600), as well as the star meats of the day are displayed above the open kitchen and go all around the interior space. Meat: cooked, grilled, fried or roasted. The basic concept is actually extremely simple. Gastro-tourism has evolved in numerous European cities based on the idea of markets selling top quality produce

and chefs complementing these well. That is the key to a win-win situation.

While sorting everything out, we start with a rather ordinary blackcur-rant juice, and then choose the borscht soup of the day, which is fine, but nothing special.

Worthy of a star, the crispy pork (Ft1,590) takes the lead role. The meat is very tender underneath its exceptionally crispy skin. It’s a good idea to have a meal with a friend, so you can taste a wider variety of dishes.

The dessert is a surprise, since this is by no means compulsory. The light and airy plum dumplings can be a memorable part of your lunch.

We will definitely come back to taste the pork chops (Ft1,250) and grill duck (Ft3,500/Ft1,750 – whole/half).

Kispiac Bistro V. Hold utca 13 (269 4231/www.kispiac.eu). Mon-Sat 7am-9pm.

★★★★★

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Buda/ÓbudaHungarian 21 Magyar Vendéglő I. Fortuna utca 21 (202 2113/www.21restaurant. hu). Várbusz from Széll Kálmán tér. Daily 11am-midnight. Average €€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Reason in itself to come to the Castle District, this modern eaterie offers superb updates on Hungarian cuisine, with less fat but all of the flavour. Go for local standards like Hortobágy pancake stuffed with chicken, or goose liver.

Alabárdos Étterem I. Országház utca 1 (356 0851/www.alabardos.hu). Várbusz from M2 Széll Kálmán tér. Mon-Fri 7-11pm; Sat noon-4pm, 7-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Quality progressive Magyar dishes and top-notch service up in the Castle District. The decor is mock medieval, suitable for tourist central, but barely reflects the kind of cuisine you can look forward to here, new renditions of local classics.

Bajai Halászcsarda XII. Hollós utca 2 (275 5245/www.bajaihalaszcsarda.hu). Bus 90, 90A/cogwheel rail to Svábhegy. Daily 11.30am-10pm. Average €€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Delightful garden

restaurant whose speciality is the fish dishes of Baja – in particular, soups. Waiters talk you through the menu (carp? catfish?) as kids play in the sandpit. A sturdy, dark-wood interior comes into its own in winter. Desserts include poppy-seed parfait with plum sauce.

Carne di Hall I. Bem rakpart 20 (201 8137/www.carnedihall.com). M2 Batthyány tér/tram 19. Daily 11.30 am - midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This comfortable cellar location was once a steak house, but they’ve had a change of management and now offer Hungarian classics, some in contemporary guise.

Csalogány 26 I. Csalogány utca 26 (201 7892/www.csalogany26.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Tue-Sat noon-3pm, 7-10pm. Average €€€. Credit DC, MC, V. A top gourmet destination, this unpretentious restaurant serves light, contemporary Hungarian cuisine at something close to its best. Much is sourced locally or created on the premises, including the ice cream.

Kisbuda Gyöngye III. Kenyeres utca 34 (368 6402). Tram 17. Mon-Sat noon-11pm Mon-Sat. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The ‘Pearl of Kisbuda’, set at one spot or another in Óbuda since the 1970s, has a high reputation as a must-visit Hungarian restaurant. The fare is standard, with classics like goose liver and Balaton fogas, but specials can pop up.

Náncsi Néni II. Ördögárok utca 80 (397 2742/www.nancsineni.hu). Tram 61 then bus 63 or 157. Daily noon-11pm. Average €€. Credit MC, V. Beloved by its many regulars, this spacious garden spot does classic Hungarian with imaginative

trimmings, such as the fresh goose liver with steamed grape and pike-perch with rosemary. It’s a trek, but you’ll be happy once you get there.

Régi Sipos Halászkert III. Lajos utca 46 (250 8082/www.regisipos.hu). Bus 86. Daily 11am-11pm. Average €€. Credit MC, V. Dating back over a century, the Sipos came into its own when Károly of the same name took it over in 1930. It’s now one of Budapest’s most venerable fish restaurants, with house soups of catfish, carp and carp innards, and old-school service in a pleasant back terrace. Past guests read like a Who’s Who of Hungarian society.

Remíz II. Budakeszi út 5 (275 1396/ www.remiz.hu). Tram 56/bus 22. Mon- Fri 11am-11pm, Sat, Sun 9am-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Two nice interior rooms and a gorgeous leafy garden comprise the setting to enjoy Hungarian favourites – grilled meats, Magyar wines, fabulous stuffed peppers and some of the best pastries in town.

Szeged Vendéglő XI. Bartók Béla 1 (209 1688/www.szegedvendeglo.hu). Tram 18, 47, 49/bus 7. Daily noon- 11pm. Average €€. Credit MC, V. Here since the year dot, this landmark near the Gellért Hotel gives the kind of dining experience you would have enjoyed in the 1960s: waitresses in mules serve spicy fish soups in a dark-wood interior, while Gypsy musicians play after dark.

Vár: a Speiz I. Hess András tér 6 (488 7416/www.varaspeiz.hu). Várbusz from M2 Széll Kálmán tér. Daily 11am-11pm. Average €€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. A real stand-out in the Castle District, this bistro-like venue serves quality versions of Hungarian classics plus international favourites such as Argentine steak, concocted by chef Zoltán Feke from his time in South America.

International Arany Kaviár I. Ostrom utca 19 (201 6737/225 7370/06 30 954 2600 mobile/www.aranykaviar.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Daily noon- 11.30pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. A family-run restaurant with lavish imperial decor offers fine Russian food, prepared by Russo-Magyar chef Sasha, who trained at top hotels in the Motherland. The sturgeon is fantastic and they have great prices on Beluga or Sevruga caviar.

Café Déryné I. Krisztina tér 3 (225 1407/www.cafederyne.hu). Tram 18, 118. Mon-Fri 7.30pmmidnight; Sat, Sun 7.30am-1am. Average €€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. American chef Daniel Elinan has compiled a sassy menu of Hungarian and Mediterranean dishes to suit the bright, swishly designed surroundings.

Café Provence II. Hidegkuti út 81 (274 7733/www.cafeprovence.hu). Bus 64. Tue-Fri 11.30am-10pm; Sat, Sun 9am-10pm. Average €€. No credit cards. In the verdant Buda Hills, Gábor and Gabriella Szerdahelyi trade in light, bistro- type cuisine. They make it a family affair, with a kids’ playground and jazz evenings. There are fancy sandwiches too, plus fabulous cakes and desserts.

Dining out

Cab it to the countryChestnut trees shade a Buda Hill garden with superior local cuisine

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rinkFuji II. Csatárka utca 54 (325 7111/ www.fujirestaurant.hu). Bus 11, 29. Daily noon-11pm. Average €€€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Up in Rózsadomb, this spot is popular with locals and Japanese visitors. You won’t find more authentic or fresher sushi anywhere in Budapest, though this exclusivity comes at a price. If you need help choosing, just push the button at your table to call a server.

Pastrami III. Lajos utca 93-94 (430 1731/www.pastrami.hu). HÉV Tímár utca/bus 86/tram 17. Daily 7am-11pm. Average €. Credit MC, V. A slice of New York in Budapest, Pastrami goes beyond the remit of a quality deli to provide daily specials, big breakfasts, filling soups and own-made ice-cream. They also do a decent version of their namesake sandwich, with meat custom cured locally. A terrace comes into its own in warmer weather.

Symbol III. Bécsi út 56 (333 5656). Bus 86/tram 17. Daily 11.30am-midnight. Average €€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. A wine cellar and sports bar complement the well priced and appealing Italian and Hungarian (choose on the way in) centrepiece restaurant in Óbuda. Great for lunch, when its attractive, open-plan interior hosts business pow-wows. Look out for the specials and don’t skimp on the dessert.

Margaret IslandHoldudvar (236 0155/www.holdudvar. net). Tram 4, 6/bus 26. Daily 11am- 11pm. Average €€. Credit MC, V. Not just for partying, but also a good choice for lunch. The daytime/evening restaurant of the bar/nightclub serves pastas, fish and big salads in a classically beautiful garden. Hungarian standards also available. Perfect for a pre-club date.

Széchenyi étterem (889 4725/www. danubiushotels.com). Tram 4, 6/bus 26. Daily 7am-10am, noon-3pm, 6-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Trees shade the beautiful garden restaurant of the Danubius Grand Hotel on Margaret Island. Fancier (and pricier) than average Hungarian and ‘wellness’ dishes are on offer here, as well as set-price buffet lunches and dinners.

PestHungarian Almárium Bisztró XIV. Gizella út 42-44 (06 20 929 4304 mobile/www. almariumbisztro.hu). M2 Puskás Ferenc Stadion/Tram 1. Mon-Thur 8am-4pm, 6pm-10pm; Fri 8am-4pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 6pm-11pm. Average €. No credit cards. Inside a non-descript basement a couple streets over from City Park n Istvánmező, the Almárium is a fancy delicatessen that began offering hautebistro dining at lunch-counter prices for workers at the Siemens building across the street. It now offers full dinner service, and an impressive wine list. The menus change frequently, and reflect new stock at the delicatessen. Lunch deals here are fantastic, and the regular dinner menu is incredibly affordable too, especially given the quality.

Astoria Mirror Café & Restaurant V. Kossuth Lajos utca 19-21 (889 6022/ 889 6000) M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/ bus 7. Daily 7am-10.30pm. Average €€. Credit

AmEx, DC, MC, V. The Astoria Hotel’s lush Habsburg-era dining room, has marble columns, dark wood walls, gilt-framed mirrors and red velvet seating. The kitchen can handle Hungarian standards, chicken paprika, veal stew and Balaton pike-perch, fogas, as well as international dishes.

Bock Bisztro Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal, VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49 (321 0340/www.bockbisztro.hu). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat noonmidnight. Average €€€. Credit DC, MC, V. Vintner József Bock, whose Villány winery makes excellent reds, showcases Hungarian labels in this wine restaurant inside the five-star Corinthia Grand Royal. Classy renditions of rich Hungarian food, like roast pork, veal paprika or fillet of chicken breast with goose liver compote provide a base for your tasting. Booking is advisable.

Café Kör V. Sas utca 17 (311 0053). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Average €€. No credit cards. Still one of the more recommendable restaurants in town, Café Kör applies a creative gourmet touch to Hungarian classics in a comfortable, bistro-like atmosphere. There’s a bar, with fine local wines, and some small café tables, as well as a more formal dining space. The refreshingly simple Hungarian international menu is complemented by daily specials, and all dishes range from good to memorable. Service can be slow, but is friendly and knowledgeable.

Gepárd és Űrhajó V. Belgrád rakpart 18 (06 70 329 7815 mobile / www.gepardesurhajo.com). Tram 2. Daily noon-midnight. Average €€. Credit MC, V. Three floor restaurant on the Pest riverside, with a different style on each floor, and capacity for 40-50 people. Besides the menu, its beautiful view of the Danube and more than 100 different quality wines make this place unique.

Gundel XIV. Állatkerti út 2 (468 4040/ www.gundel.hu). M1 Hősök tere. Mon- Sat noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-midnight; Sun 11.30am-2pm (brunch only). Average €€€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Now more of a pricey tourist stop, but still a place for fine food and a classy atmosphere, the city’s most famous restaurant opened in 1894 and was taken over in 1910 by top chef Károly Gundel. His restaurant helped create modern Hungarian cuisine. Reopened several years ago by restaurant impressario George Lang, it became a landmark, if a somewhat stuffy and formal one. Fine versions of Hungarian standards, and Magyar renditions of international dishes, please modern palates. Sunday brunch is a more relaxed and affordable way to say you’ve been to Gundel.

Kádár étkezde VII. Klauzal tér 9 (321 3622). Tram 4, 6. Tue-Sat 11.30am- 3.30pm. Average €. No credit. This is not a fancy place: they only do lunch, the checked tablecloths are made of plastic and the tables are communal – so you may end up seated with strangers. Still, this is some of the best home-style cooking in Budapest.

Klassz VI. Andrássy út 41 (no phone). M1 Oktogon/M1 Opera. Mon-Sat 11am- 11pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Average €€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. They don’t give a phone number or take bookings, but this bright wine restaurant is always packed – and deservedly so: this is one of the best places

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to eat in town. Although it’s owned by the local Wine Society, Klassz by no means neglects the food. Courteous, savvy servers help you peruse a frequently changing wine list, with 30 local labels by the glass. The continental and Hungarian menu also alternates. You’ll wait for a table, but it will be worth it.

M. Restaurant VII. Kertész utca 48 (322 3108/06 70 316 8385/http://metterem. hu). Tram 4-6, Király utca. Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun noo-4pm and 6pm-midnight. Average €€. This rustic, bohemian café in the Jewish Quarter, with much of the decor literally drawn on the walls, provides upscale updates of traditional Hungarian and continental cuisine that’s prepared with an obvious love for food. The menu changes frequently, and daily options can include starters of lamb liver mousse or foie gras terrine and mains of beef bourgogne, duck leg, chicken goulash or catfish. For a dependable treat, order the ‘surprise’ daily vegetarian dish: just tell the server what you don’t like and the chef prepares accordingly.

MÁK Bisztró V. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 (06 30 723 9383 mobile/www. makbistro.com). Tram 2. Tue-Sat noonmidnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Creative fusion of Hungarian, French, Basque and Catalan cuisines have helped this restaurant win over budapest and win a lot of awards. Time Out Budapest picked them as the city’s best progressive Hungarian restaurant and ‘Gault Millau’ included them in the city’s top three for their 2012 guide. Now that they have a new chef, watch for gradual change from the kitchen.

Menza VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2 (413 1482). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6. Daily 10am - midnight.

Average €€. Credit -AmEx, MC, V. Still the locals’ favourite bar-restaurant on Liszt Ferenc tér, this retro spot done up to resemble a 1970s’ cafeteria pays homage to classic Hungarian cookery with standards and creative updates of the cuisine. A change of chef beefed up the meaty home-style offerings, but there are still a few decidedly non-Magyar dishes, like duck breast with mango and blueberries and salmon in hollandaise sauce. Hungarian specials include lángos (fried dough) dressed up with chicken-breast stuffing. The location in the midst of hoards of other eateries means that prices are competitive and the cocktail menu long, as is the attractive list of affordable wines.

Múzeum VIII. Múzeum körút 12 (267 0375/www.muzeumkavehaz.hu). M3 Kálvin tér/tram 47, 49. Mon-Sat 6pmmidnight. Average €€€. Credit MC, V. Tasty and representative Hungarian cuisine has been served in this popular, elegant setting by the National Museum since 1885. High ceilings, tiled walls and tall windows provide plenty of light, and well-spaced tables embellish the fin-de-siècle ambience.

Onyx V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8 (429 9023/www.onyxrestaurant.hu). M1 Vörösmarty tér. Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The Gerbeaud coffee shop on Vörösmarty tér specialises in serving tourists. Surprisingly, their

inventive restaurant specialises in serving wonderful meals – and has been awarded with a Michelin star for doing so. Onyx’s stated mission, to modernise Hungarian cuisine, is most evident in their ‘Hungarian evolution’ tasting menu, with seven small portions, including a layered ‘cake’ of goose liver, trout and raspberry vinegar jelly. It’s not cheap, but you can save with lunch menus, at around Ft2,500- Ft3,000. Fitting for tourist central, the service is attentive and formal – almost too much so.

Rosenstein VIII. Mosonyi utca 3 (333 3492). M2 Keleti pu./bus 7. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. Average €€€. Credit MC, V. Superbly executed old-school Hungarian restaurant in an unlikely setting down a sidestreet near Keleti station, run by chef/owner Tibor Rosenstein. Pork-stuffed cabbage, fish soup with catfish, sólet, roast duck – everyone’s favourite is here. Save with the affordable daily lunch special menu.

Tigris V. Mérleg utca 10 (317 3715/ www.tigrisrestaurant.hu). M1 Vörösmarty tér. Mon-Sat noon-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Attila Gere, whose winery in Villány is one of the favourites in Hungary, opened this classy-looking wine restaurant in downtown Budapest, with oak furnishings, Zsolnay tableware and fancy prices. The subtly flavourful dishes put a modern twist on tradition, like the decadent goose liver crème brûlée starter. Throughout your meal, a sommelier will help you choose just the right vintages.

International Baraka VI. Andrássy út 111, in the Andrássy Hotel (483 1355/www. barakarestaurant.hu). M1 Bajza utca.

Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Often one of the most interesting and delicious meals in town. Owners Leora and David Seboek have been setting the standard for progressive cuisine in Budapest for years, and their restaurant in the dramatic black, silver and green dining room of the Hotel Andrássy is still the one to beat. Using what the chef describes as French- Asian fusion, the kitchen turns out exciting dishes that fill the mouth with interesting and unusual flavours.

Callas VI. Andrássy út 20 (354 0954/ www.callascafe.hu). M1 Opera. Daily 11.30am-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Tastefully done out by the UK’s David Collins of London’s Blue Bar fame, this style café-restaurant attracts crowds heading for the Opera House opposite, and tourists looking for the well-priced business lunch on offer during the week. It’s quality international fare, with a section on Hungarian classics.

Cucina V. Váci utca 20 (266 4144/ www.lacucina.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 10am-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. This Italian restaurant in the heart of the tourist neighbourhood provides excellent preparations of the standards – pasta, pizza and risotto, as well as some fish and steak dishes – at reasonable prices, especially given the location. There’s a terrace out front, for people watching on Váci utca. Inside, amid faux trattoria decor, you can observe the pizza man in action, and the huge, backlit photo mural of piazza Navona in Rome.

Chez Daniel VI. Szív utca 32 (302 4039). M1 Kodály körönd. Daily noon- 3pm, 7-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC,

‘Retro’Menza resembles a 1970s’ cafeteria and pays homage to classic Hungarian cookery with creative updates.

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rinkMC, V. Superior French cuisine. Under owner-chef Daniel Labrosse, cuisine here depends on what’s good at the market. Don’t bother with the menu, the daily specials board is what you’re after – or better yet, just ask Daniel to recommend. Service is knowledgeable if shambolic and reservations are advised.

Costes IX. Ráday utca 4 (219 0696/ www.costes.hu). M3 Kálvin tér. Mon- Sat noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. One of the city’s most serious restaurants is a prime candidate for city’s best restaurant – it certainly claimed Budapest’s first Michelin star. Costes costs, but they don’t skip on imaginative, contemporary food or the best wines – and there is an army of highly trained servers. The decor is similarly minimalist, with fresh flowers, silver panels and dark wood.

Cyrano V. Kristóf tér 7-8 (226 3096/ http://cyrano.hu/). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 10am-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A top-standard choice in tourist central, Cyrano and its two shaded terraces are just off Váci utca. The cuisine is Mediterranean and international with Magyar offerings: creative seafood dishes and Argentine steak mingle comfortably with veal paprikás or a fine goulash; separate lunch and dinner menus change frequently. Staff are refreshingly human in a part of town where diners can be treated as one-time guests.

Fausto’s Étterem VI. Székely Mihály utca 2 (06 30 589 1813 mobile/www. fausto.hu). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri noon- 3pm, 7-11pm; Sat 6-11pm. Average €€€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A contender for best restaurant in town, Fausto’s is clearly the top Italian. They’ve held that position for years by giving loving care to their customers and their food. Every bite is a sensual pleasure, whether it’s tender black ravioli filled with asparagus in lobster sauce or waferthin slices of duck breast, served with basil in a coffee sauce that’s thick with flavour. Owner Fausto Di Vora jumps between the kitchen and dining room to make sure things go smoothly, and a watchful server is always circling the floor. This level of attention is unusual in Budapest, but it goes down well with the foreigners who can afford it.

Haxen Király VI., Király u. 11.(351- 6793, www.haxen.hu). Trolley 70, 78. Sun-Thur noon-midnight; Fri–Sat noon–1 am. With Paulaner Beer and huge hearty cuts of meat, this is the Bavarian region’s best ambassador to Budapest. Pig trotters, German sausage, steak, venison and more rich meals are served up in helpings large enough to overwhelm many and satiate the hungriest carnivore.

Hummus V. Október 6. utca 19 (354 0108/www.hummusbar.hu). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Fri 11.30am-10pm; Sat, Sun noon- 10pm. Average €. Credit MC, V. Other locations: V. Kecskeméti utca 1; V. Alkotmány utca 20; XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 6. Known for their creamy smooth Israeli-style hummus, the most sophisticated location in this local mini chain also prepares a good selection of grilled meats, kebabs and laffa bread baked to order in a tandoor oven. A wide choice of salads such as tabule and aubergine, and delicious spicy sauces complete the picture. Other locations around town, including are good, and feature the signature hummus, with the Hollán Ernő

and Alkotmány utca branches being vegetarian only.

Két Szerecsen VI. Nagymező utca 14 (343 1984/www.ketszerecsen.hu). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 8am-midnight; Sat, Sun 9am-midnight. Average €€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. This charming café-restaurant with Med cuisine offers some of the best tapas around, as well as impressively handled se-food and other southern-European delights. The cosy interior includes big windows that catch the sun in the early afternoon.

Krizia VI.Mozsár utca 12 (331 8711/ www.ristorantekrizia.hu). M1 Oktogon/ M1 Opera/tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat noon- 3pm, 6.30pm-midnight. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This nicely lit cellar has been raising the standard for Italian restaurants in town. Chef/owner Graziano Cattaneo is usually around, and you can ask him to recommend something off-menu, or go for the superbly simple dishes, such as paperthin prosciutto or a comforting appetiser of fresh scallops with rocket, porcini mushroom and balsamic vinegar.

Le Bourbon V. Erzsébet tér 9-10 (429 5770/www.lemeridien.com/Budapest). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 6.30am- 10.30pm. Average €€€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. In the bright, colonial-style dining room of Le Méridien Hotel, executive chef Laurent Vandenameele, schooled in the Michelin-star circuit in France, works wonders. His menu is creative, with immaculately prepared starters like puff pastry served with pear poached in red wine, goat cheese and rocket salad with citrus vinaigrette. The cheese platter’s components are flown in weekly from Paris. Service is customer-oriented and pampering, befitting a five-star hotel.

Millennium Da Pippo VI. Andrássy út 76 (374 0880/www.millenniumdapippo. hu). M1 Kodály körönd. Daily noon-midnight. Average €. Credit MC, V. A lovely little local draws people to outer Andrássy út, where there’s a fun atmosphere and great food at neighbourly prices. The superb pizzas are thin-crusted. There’s a lunch special, which usually includes a pasta that’s tossed in a hollowed-out wheel of parmesan. They make their own ravioli, tortelloni and other house pastas, all for around Ft2,000. Steaks and fish are also dependable, and priced right.

Momotaro Ramen V. Széchenyi utca 16 (269 3802). M2 Kossuth tér/M3 Arany János utca. Daily 11am-10pm. Average €. No credit. The titular ramen noodle soups are just one reason to come to this superb low-key restaurant serving simple Japanese and Chinese food near Szabadság tér. Another reason is the dumplings, fried or prepared in a bamboo steamer and probably the best in Budapest. They cover much ground: veggie ramen without meat broth, Momotaro ramen, hot-sour ramen and a loads of pork, beef, chicken and seafood. Friendly staff are happy to tell you about any item on the long menu.

New York Pizza VI. Szondi utca 37 (697 4992/www.newyorkpizza.hu). M1 Kodály körönd, Trolley 76. Mon- Fri 8am-11pm; Sat, Sun 11am-11pm. Average €. Credit MC, V. Other location: II. Lövőház utca 12. It’s hard to match a New York-style pizza, but this place comes pretty close. The owner is a Hungarian who spent

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Food

& D

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several years working in pizza and fast food places in New York and came home with an appreciation for good pies, wraps, burgers – even chicken wings. And just like pizza shops in the big city, this one makes deliveries.

Nobu Kempinski Hotel, V. Erzsébet tér 7-8 (429 4242/www.noburestaurants. com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Sat 6pm-12.30am; Sun noon-8pm. Average €€€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The Budapest branch of this upscale sushi chain is under the wing of celebrated Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. It’s not cheap, but it is some of the best sushi you can get anywhere, and lunchtime deals are available. Lots of other great dishes too. Executive chef Gábor Schreiner oversees renditions of Nobu faves. Booking ahead is best, though there’s usually a seat at the sushi bar.

Osteria Fausto’s VII. Dohány utca 5 (269 6806/www.fausto.hu). M2 Astoria. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. Average €€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The casual sister restaurant of Fausto’s (see above), this is the spot for quality Italian dishes at decent prices. The mains menu consists of several varieties of pasta and a few choices each of meat and fish.

Pampas Argentine Steakhouse V. Vámház körút 6 (411 1750/www. steak.hu). M3 Kálvin tér/tram 47, 49. Daily noon-midnight. Average €€€. Credit MC, V. There are only a handful of real steakhouses in town and this one, serving aged Argentine Angus, is perhaps Budapest’s best. Tenderloin, filet mignon, strip-style sirloin and other cuts of top-quality meat are prepared by a kitchen that understands rare means

red. Steaks come in three sizes, from just under a half-pound to a pound; you won’t be leaving hungry.

Rickshaw Corinthia Hotel Budapest, VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49 (479 4855). Tram 4, 6. Tue-Sat 6-11pm. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Chef Yang Zhi Jun takes Asian cuisine a step further with exquisite takes on traditional dishes from Szechuan, Hunan and Peking – liberally dosed with imaginative use of spices.

Taj Mahal VI. Szondi utca 40 (301 0447/www.tajmahal.hu) M3 Nyugati pu./tram 4, 6. Tue-Sun noon-11pm. Average €. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This Indian hidden away near Nyugati is the only place in town to offer south Indian breads and fermented ricebatter pancakes. The menu spans all Indian regions and styles, including spicy Goan. It’s a large interior to fill, and you may be dining in library quiet. They deliver, rare for good places in Budapest.

TG Italiano V. Október 6 utca 8 (266 3525). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Thur, Sun noon-midnight; Fri, Sat noon-1am. Average €€€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This top quality Italian spot in a highly touristed area offers thin, crispycrusted pizza, good pasta and fantastic grilled food, whether you go for the seafood or meat.

Trattoria Pomo D’Oro V. Arany János utca 9 (302 6473/www.pomodorobudapest. com) M3 Arany János utca. Daily noon-midnight. Average €€. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This sprawling place is ahead of the pack of good Italian joints in Budapest. Pizzas from a brick oven, own-made pasta, fish and meat grilled on a wood stove in view of the dining area make this is a real crowd-pleaser. Italian and Hungarian wines. Be sure to book ahead of time.

BudaBambi Presszó II. Frankel Leó út 2-4 (212 3171). Bus 60, 86. Mon-Fri 7am- 10pm; Sat, Sun 9am-9pm. The classic example of the presszó, the Bambi is where time stands still. Ancient plastic ferns and the background noise of dominoes being slapped on to mosaictopped tables by unsmiling locals complement designer touches from 1965.

Lánchíd Söröző I. Fő utca 4 (214 3144). Tram 19/bus 86. Daily 11am- 1am. Comfortable local bar of agreeably retro character near the Chain Bridge is it named after displays blackand- white shots of Budapest and rock iconography. The genial owners, oldschool music fans both, have expanded the operation to incorporate a gallery, kitchen and large adjoining space. TV football channels include DIGI Sport for major Premiership games.

Majorka XII. Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 16 (224 0055). Tram 61. Daily noon-midnight. Great terrace spot on the edge of Városmajor Park, near the terminus of the cogwheel railway. Lazy in summer, cosily illuminated in winter, the Majorka provides salads, grilled meats and the usual range of drinks.

Moszkva tér Bisztró II. Széll Kálmán tér (www.moszkvater.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Mon-Thur & Sun noon-midnight; Fri, Sat noon-3am. Atop Széll Kálmán tér Metro station and Buda transport hub, this is an oasis of trendified drinking. Clubby music plays on any given afternoon, particularly when a party crowd arrives. The raised terrace is a great outdoor spot for sundown or later.

Szatyor Bár és Galéria XI. Bartók Béla út 36 (279 0290). Tram 47, 49. Mon- Fri noon-1am. In the same building as the stylishly revived Hadik Kávéház, the ‘Carrier Bag’ is a funky spot for cocktails and affordable bar food, amid trash art, retro lamps and an old Lada driven by poet Endre Ady.

Tranzit Art Café XI. Kosztolányi Dezső tér 7 (209 3070). Bus 7/tram 19. Mon-Fri 9am-11pm; Sat, Sun 10am- 10pm. Set

in an abandoned bus station renovated by Attila Borsay and Orsolya Egri, this trendy spot is ideal for an open-air cocktail, breakfast (scrambled eggs, ciabattas) and a soup-and-main lunch for under Ft1,500. There are fresh shakes (it’s child-friendly) and a hammock to sip them in.

Pest400 VII. Kazinczy utca 52 (06 20 776 0766 mobile). M2 Astoria/bus 7. Mon- Wed 10am-3am; Thur, Fri 10am-5am; Sat noon-5am; Sun noon-3am. A big fun place in the heart of nightlife central keeps busy year round, thanks to its large terrace. The 400 (a nod to its large size) has combined the talents of four major players in town to create a professional bar-eatery that’s a great place to meet new people or watch some football.

Bár Ó VI. Ó utca 41(06 20 467 1582 mobile/www.retoxpartyhostel.com). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6/trolley 70, 78. Daily noon-3am. The people behind the Grandio, a garden bar attached to a youth hostel, have taken the concept to District VI. As the website of the Retox Party Hostel says: ‘We live for the moment. We hit it hard and fast at night, and we wait a moment or two before considering the day’. Although set up in a roughly converted residential building, it feels slick and carefully designed to encourage mingling.

Bohémia Söröző VIII. Déri Miksa utca 1 (no phone). Tram 4, 6. Mon- Thur 11am-11pm; Fri 11am-1am; Sat 2pm-1am; Sun 2-11pm. The Bohémia features the iconic trappings of 20th- century Czech culture – The Good Soldier Svejk in book and bar sign form, scenes from Menzel films – though here the beers are lesserknown. The two options on draught are Novopacke lager from Nova Paka and Pardubicky Porter from, well, Pardubicky.

The Caledonia VI. Mozsár utca 9 (311 7611/www.caledonia.hu). M1 Oktogon. Mon-Thur 11am-midnight, Fri 11am-1am, Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 9am-11pm. This authentic, Scot-themed pub offers 42 types of whisky, Belhaven Best on tap, top breakfasts, Sunday roasts, steakand- ale pies and haggis burgers. Most of all, it doesn’t feel like forint flytrap for footie-centric expats – though there are plenty of sports on TV, pub quizes and all kinds of events.

Bars & Cafés

To hell with detoxBar in a hostel draws a young crowd out for fun

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Food & D

rinkCastro Bisztró VII. Madách Imre tér 3 (215 0184). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Thur 11am-midnight; Fri 11am- 1am; Sat noon-1am; Sun 2pm-midnight. Centrally located hangout near the tip of bar central attracts big-name musicians and hard-core partygoers. Decor, a mix of funky pictures, is cheerily lit during the day, when there’s nice indirect sun. The food, including Serbian-style meats, is good, the atmosphere casual and the crowd is lively.

Csak a jó sör VII. Kertész utca 42-44 (06 30 251 4737 mobile/www. csakajosor.hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat noon-9pm.Beer specialist ‘Only Good Beer’ offers rare finds from all over the world, such as Flying Dog India Pale Ale, Left Hand Stout and Brewdog. This is both a shop and a bar, and there’s always a rotating selection of interesting beer on tap, with prices hovering around Ft700 for a half litre.

Csendes V. Ferenczy István utca 5 (www.kiscsendes.hu). M2 Astoria. Mon-Fri 8am-midnight; Sat 10ammidnight; Sun 2pm-midnight. Students from around the area flock to this striking, trash-art masterpiece impressively done up with skip-found furniture and knick-knacks of all kinds collected by owners Dezső Gazdag and Zsolt Pakots. Affordable drinks and regular DJs keep the up-for-it young crowd coming back for more.

Csiga VIII. Vásár utca 2 (210 0885). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-midnight. This nightlife institution on a corner of Rákóczi tér came under new management in 2011, but they maintained everything that was good about the place: good food, fair prices, bright decorations, a relaxed attitude and a bohemian crowd.

Ellátó VII. Klauzál tér 2 (no phone). M1 Opera/tram 4, 6/bus 7. Mon- Thur noon-1am; Fri noon-4am; Sat 5pm-4am; Sun 5pm-1am. Spacious, attractively designed venue with picture windows overlooking Klauzál tér serves as an important nightlife stop for locals and foreigners. Loveable staff work the busy, main bar and a small side one, while a creative kitchen offers a hearty mix of bar foods from various cuisines.

Gozsdu Manó Klub VII Király utca 13, Gozsdu udvar (no phone). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Thur, Sun 10am-4am; Fri, Sat noon-5am. More than just a concert venue, this place has a jumping barroom on the ground floor and great terrace space in the atmospheric Gozsdu passageway. Exposed brick, industrial fixtures and a low key atmosphere attract an arty crowd.

Jedermann IX. Ráday utca 58 (06 30 406 3617 mobile). Tram 4, 6. Daily 8am-1am. Attached to the Goethe Institute, this revamped spot under bar manager supreme Hans van Vliet attracts students and intellectuals with teas, coffees, quality brunches and lunches, and live jazz shows. There’s a small but very atmospheric court-yard terrace in the rear.

Jelen VIII. Blaha Lujza tér (06 20 344 3155 mobile). M2 Blaha Lujza tér/ tram 4, 6. Mon, Tue 11am-4am; Wed- Fri 11am-4am; Sat 4pm-4am; Sun 4pm-2am. This spacious, late-opening bohemian bar/restaurant is generally busy by late evening. In the same building as the Corvin department store, above which the Corvintető club goes on even later.

Macska VIII. Bérkocsis utca 23. M2 Blaha Lujza tér/tram 4, 6. Daily 11am-2am. Another boho bar behind Blaha Lujza tér, this arty little gem opened in 2010, manned by a mainly ex-Yugo staff. Cats in various

forms make welcome appearances amid the funky decor, though the felines would not approve of the vegan and vegetarian offerings on the menu. DJs on occasions.

Pótkulcs Pub VI. Csengery utca 65B (269 1050/www.potkulcs.hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Wed Sun 5pm-1.30am; Thur- Sat 5pm-2.30am. Tucked behind a metal gate on a side street not far from Nyugati station, Pótkulcs is charming, unpretentious, cosy and inviting. There’s a great terrace out front and a couple of spacious indoor halls arranged in an ‘L’ shape. Live music here tends toward folk.

Repülő Puli VII. Klauzál utca 11 (06 30 919 6768 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Wed 8am-1am, Thur 8am- 2am, Fri 8am-3am, Sat 10am-3am, Sun 10am-1am. The Flying Puli Dog is a cute little bar: small and brightly coloured, with five tables and shelves tightly crammed with all kinds of good things to drink. Step outside, and an open space provides air and sunlight in front of one of the old buildings on narrow Klauzál utca serves as the bar’s terrace, with room to seat 60.

Szóda VII. Wesselényi utca 18 (461 0007/www.szoda.com). M2 Astoria/bus 7/tram 47, 49. Mon-Fri 9am-midnight; Sat 2pm-midnight. The old soda syphons on the bar set the theme in a funky main space also decked out in manga art. Downstairs is a dancefloor where DJs spin Wednesday through Saturday and uninhibited folks party like tomorrow has been cancelled.

Szimpla VII. Kertész utca 48 (342 8991). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Fri 10ammidnight; Sat noon-2am; Sun noon-midnight. This funky, alternative café-bar was the first venture by the people who created the successful Szimplakert, and it still retains its vibe as a fun local with bohemian leanings. The Szimpla (‘Single’) also houses a small and smoky cellar bar. Both places conform to a basic formula: fire-sale furniture, squeaky floorboards and cheap drinks.

Telep VII. Madách út 8 . Mon-Fri 10am-midnight; Sat 4pm-midnight. On an otherwise quiet weekday night, the Telep can be brimming with a fun-loving young crowd of artists and art lovers. Aside from hosting compelling work by local underground artists who might otherwise not get exposure, Telep offers a great space to grab a post-show drink.

Téli Kertem VII. Dohány utca 28 (781 6510). M2 Astoria. Mon-Fri 9am-4am; Sat, Sun 10am-4am.By maintaining their commitment to good staff, lively music and a fun time, the group behind the Kertem garden bar transplanted their loyal party crowd to the ‘Winter’ Kertem. Crowds come early for barfood dinner, and all the tables may be taken in the beige-and-brick main bar room, which is L-shaped, fronting both Kazinczy and Dohány utca. Find seating up in the gallery or down in the large cellar, open at least four nights a week.

THIS IS HOW WE DO ITThe restaurants that appear in this section have been chosen by our food critics. The establishments are visited anonymously. We indicate the price of the average cost of a start-er and main, from up to Ft4,000 (one euro sign) to more than Ft8,000 (four euro signs).Listings are chosen at the discretion of the editors. Time Out does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

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Styl

e

Style

Styl

e

Basics for winter:coat, bags and shoes

Youthfully extremeThe neon colors of the eighties are still in the main-stream of fashion. So those who like the wild youth-ful style will not miss the mark even with combina-tions of several vibrant neon colors. And monster high sneakers are among the most stylish winter footwear. Coat - New Yorker Ft14,990; Shoes - Vagabond Ft27,990; Bag - Eastpak (Asos) 63,52 Euró

Minimalist style crazeIf the cut is perfect, there is no need for any frills. Anyone with a feminine fi gure who is known as a fashion follower will fi nd this a perfect combination. The well-cut, oversize textile coat, the classic hand-bag made with a small twist and the grey platform shoes are all characterized by clean lines but a hint of eccentricity.Coat - H&M Ft34,990; Shoes - New Yorker Ft9,890; Bag - H&M Ft29,990

Feminine and smartThose who want to invest in a durable coat, shoes and bag should by pieces like these. A handsome black textile coat, a leather handbag and leather Wellingtons will last for decades and remain stylish.Coat - Marks & Spencer Ft79,990; Shoes - Vagabond Ft43,990; Bag - Marks & Spencer Ft16,990

Youthfully

extreme

Minimalist

style craze

Feminine

and smart

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Style

Relaxed and toughIn this combination comfort is also the main aspect, but the style is not sporty. The earthy colors can be easily combined, so we chose a greenish coat and brown shoes. When choosing the materials we opt-ed for natural fi bres, and chose a cotton backpack and leather shoes. Coat - H&M Ft14,990; Shoes - Springfi eld Ft14,995; Bag - Springfi eld Ft14,995

Basics for winter:coat, bags and shoes

If you don’t want to replace your whole wardrobe come winter, it is enough to buy a distinctive coat that goes with your personality, plus matching bag and shoes. Here are some examples in different styles.

Soldierly elegantThis triumvirate is an eccentric combination of femi-nine and smart. The cut of the textile coat is a bit sol-dierly; the extravagance of the fl at soled winter shoes is due to the patent leather they are made of, whilst the traditional, leather shoulder bag helps to tone down the general effect a little.Coat - Marks & Spencer Ft67,990; Shoes - Vagabond Ft29,990; Bag - New Yorker Ft3,990

SportyThe principal aspect, when choosing for boys was comfort, because this is the most important consid-eration for lads when they dress. A simple, warm and waterproof coat can be combined with rubber sole sporty shoes and a backpack decorated with monochrome graphics. Coat - New Yorker Ft17,990; Shoes - Springfi eld Ft14,995; Bag - Eastpak (Asos) 63,52 Euró

Soldierly

elegant

Sporty

Relaxed

and tough

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Styl

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Mack when it pours It seems this November is not quite yet the time for winter, what we have is rain, and wet and slosh to contend with. But we know how you can banish the blues with macks by Hungarian designers and world brand accessories.

Accesories

1Waterproof bag in brown and black from the collection made especially for a rainy day.

Springfi eld Ft7,995. www.spf.com

2Would you believe that Vivienne Westwood, the mother of punk, designed a collection for the

Melissa brand famous for its rubber shoes! And part of the collection - these black and white Wellies with a bow. Vivienne Westwood for Melissa 208,35 Euro. www.melissa.com

A

1

23

6

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Style

Macks

A Zagabo’s trench coat fashioned models have been a popular choice for a long time because

they are not only waterproof but ele-gant as well. Zagabo Ft17,800. www.zagabo.com

B Mojzes Dóra autumn-winter collection features a few gar-ments decorated with clouds.

This cloudy waterproof Mack not only befi ts the cheerless weather but also protects you from getting a soaking.Dora Mojzes Ft33,000. www.doramojzes.com

3To be stylish, Wellies don’t have to be fancy in design. Just use extravagant coloring – and

Vagabond’s designers are well aware of it. Vagabond Ft14,990. www.vagabond.com

4Remember Furla’s’Candy Bag’? Transparent plastic bags are defi nitely in. This blue water-

proof handbag caters for the followers of that trend. Bershka Ft6,995. www.bershka.com

5An umbrella in your bag is always good on a rainy day, and even better if it is a fancy poodle

one. Asos 15,28 Euro. www.asos.com

6This black-and-white translu-cent umbrella comes from Springfi eld’s collection for a

rainy day Ft3,995. www.spf.com

7Sports style lovers will fi nd this messenger bag just dandy for fi shing in the rain. Helly Hansen

Ft14,990. www.hellyhansen.com

C Kiss Sarolta’s NON+ brand rep-resents relaxed fashion. You can wear this simple black coat

cut at the waist with either elegant or sporty clothing. NON+ Ft22,000 www.nonplusz.hu

D Not only waterproof, this jacket is so small when packed it fi ts into your bag, and it saves you

from sudden downpours. UrbanLegend by Zsofi Gereby Ft15,500.www.urbanlegend.cc

B C

D7

4

5

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Style

Design & household

Aron Design Store V. Deák tér 4 (411 1416/www.aron-store.com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 16, 105 . Mon-Fri 10.30am - 6.30pm; Sat, Sun 11am-5pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Canonised modern design objects from all over the world fill this small shop, offering contemporary museum-status artefacts for home. Other locations: MOM Park, XII. Alkotás utca 53; Jászai Mari tér.

Basic V. Október 6. utca 8 (267 0699/ www.basiccollection.hu). Bus 5/105 Nádor tér. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. Credit DC, MC, V. Some 300 chairs in this Hungarian star architect-designed shop give you an overwhelming overview of what you might want to sit on at home for prettier living. BBB, Philip Starck et al.

Bomo Art V. Régiposta utca 14 (318 7280/www.bomoart.com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 16, 105. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit MC, V. Book by its cover? Bomo Art might just have your number – it stocks its own handmade journals, diaries, photo albums, agendas, wrapping paper, leather books, postcards, book covers, and enamel-ornamented books.

Brinkus Design VI. Paulay utca 56 (321 2138/www.brinkusdesign.com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/ tram 47, 49/bus 16, 105. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am- 2pm. No credit cards. Kata Brinkus’s degree is in textile design, and whatever she can do with textile and fabric, textile and fabric will do. Curtains, bedding, bags, textile accessories and more.

Colorbar V. Magyar utca 22 (06 20 219 0400 mobile/www.colorbar.hu/ bolt). M2 Astoria/bus 7, 112, 173, 178. Mon-Fri 10am-6.30pm; Sat 10am- 2pm. Retro and contemporary design shop with a very wide product range, anything from fashions to furniture and accessories from the 1950s on.

Eventuell V. Nyáry Pál utca 7 (318 6926/ www.eventuell.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/ bus 5, 7, 112, 173, 173. Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm; Sat 10.30am-2pm. Credit MC, V. Contemporary Hungarian artisan textiles for the home and body: felt-silk mix stoles, limited series throw rugs, rolls of designer fabrics and curtains, knitted pillows, bedspreads, with some jewellery thrown in.

Forma V. Ferenciek tere 4 (266 5053/ www.forma.co.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/ bus 7. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 10am- 2pm. Credit MC, V. This modern shop exercises that magic touch that capably brings together under one roof the most different yet perfectly matching decorative elements. Imported as well as Hungarian goodies are available. Accessories like watches, lamps and real conversation pieces.

Innoshop V. Kecskeméti utca 8 (217 0151/wwwinnoshop.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus

7, 8, 112, 178. Mon-Fri 11am- 7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Desire design from all over the Commonwealth of Cool, from furniture to accessories including Normann Chagen, Guzzini or Jordi Labanda.

insitu V. Múzeum körút 7 (266 3080/ www.insitu.hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/bus 7, 8, 112, 173, 178. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-3pm. Credit MC, V. In an enchantingly quaint passage off Múzeum körút near Astoria, design deli insitu fills its space with must-haves of all sorts from pretty-to-look-ats, like postcards in which you can sprout seeds, to practicals like a stick pad for your mobiles on the dashboard. Other location: Front, V. Múzeum körút 5 (7877503).

Ivanka Concrete Design XIII. Lehel utca 9 (06 20 398 5511 mobile/www.ivanka. hu). M3 Lehel tér. By appointment. No credit cards. This hard stuff at its lightest light: concrete speakers, stairs, sinks. Katalin and András Ivánka work with a revolutionary new style of concrete with impeccable results.

Magma V. Petőfi Sándor utca 11 (235 0277/235 0278/www.magma.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am- 7pm; Sat 10am-3pm. Credit DC, MC, V. Anikó Vásárhelyi almost exclusively shows and sells local handiwork by a collective of talented artisans, breaking the mould set by the folksy merchants on nearby Váci. Unique and highly recommended.

Originart V. Arany János utca 18 (302 2162/www.originart.hu). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. No credit cards. In home decoration and gifting, all that make you smile are available here: fantastic figurines, ceramics central, glazed gatemarkers – Hungarian handiwork that keeps finding the child within.

rododendron Art & Design Shop V. Semmelweiss utca 19 (06 70 419 5329 mobile/www.rododendron.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 16, 105. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-4pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Work of emerging artists and their handiwork, and some Czech and Israeli design. Also available here is Gábor Domokos and Péter Várkonyi’s gömböc’, a statue that solves a mathematical dilemma.

Vibel V. Nagy Ignác utca 16 (312 2525/ www.vibel.com). M3 Nyugati pu./ tram 4, 6. By appointment. Credit MC, V. Children’s interiors to bring early infant inspirations. Some of the styles available are Gypsy, Bio Chic, Punk Rock and Vitamines.

FashionDepartment stores & malls allee XI. Október 23-a utca 8-10 (www. allee.hu). Tram 4, 18 Újbuda-központ/ tram 6, 18 Móricz Zsigmond körtér/ bus 7, 173. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun 10am-7pm. A massive playground for shoppers, with Marks & Spencer, L’Occitane, Kreatív Hobby and local gloves maker Bognár Kesztyű.

COIN-OVS Department Store V. Dorottya utca 6 (327 0389/www.coin.co.hu). M1 Vörösmarty tér. Daily 10am-8pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. A mezze of mega mode in a splendid building downtown.

Mammut II. Lövőház utca 2-6 (345 8020/www.mammut.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán

tér/tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 10am- 9pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Benetton, Mango, Swarovski and smaller European shops. Next to Fény utca produce market.

MOM Park XII. Alkotás utca 53 (487 5500/www.mompark.hu). Tram 61. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Goa for exotic interiors, Jacadi for kiddie couture, Match for imported and exotic food, and DM for organic food.

Westend City Center VI. Váci út 1-3 (238 7777/www.westend.hu). M3 Nyugati pu./tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-6pm. The city’s busiest and most comprehensive mall. Has a wide rnge of clothing, electronics, a cinema and a big food court dowstairs.

Accessories & jewellery Anh Tuan VI. Rózsa utca 74 (06 30 983 3499 mobile/www.anh-tuan.com). M1 Vörösmarty utca. By appointment. No credit cards. Vietnamese-born Anh Tuan works his magic on leather in this spacious studio, to create oversize bags, belts and bracelets. Limited -series women’s and men’s collections are also available.

Cancan VI. Nagymező utca 6 (321 7061). M1 Opera/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Knickers and knockers to make rather than break a date: underwear that brings a breath of fresh air to cleavage and crotch.

Ékes Kesztyű V. Régiposta utca 14 (266 0986). M3 Ferenciek tere. Mon- Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Ékes makes gloves in various leathers by hand.

Fazekas Valéria Művészi Kalapszalon V. Váci utca 50 (337 5320). M3 Ferenciek tere. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am- 2pm.

No credit cards. Hats, more hats of the avant garde ilk, in shapes and fabrics that stretch the imagination.

Glamour Accessories VI. Nagymező utca 37-39 (321 5161/www.pompadurrkellek. com). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 11am-2pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A great range of party wear accessories like masks and boas. This is any babe’s bon vivant boudoir.

Laoni VI. Klauzál tér 1 (322 7481/www. laoni.hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Fri 10am- 6pm. Credit MC, V. The artistic vision of Ilona Ács is realised in high-quality leather wallets, handbags and accessories, all hand-made on the premises.

Printa Akadémia VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 10 (06 70 381 9051 mobile/www.boltmuhely.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/tram 47, 49/bus 105. Mon- Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 11am-5pm. Credit MC, V. Budapest sweatshirts, T-shirts and bags in a contemporary vein and accessories by top Hungarian designers. Also graphics – and a coffee shop.

Pussy Deluxe VI. Nagymező utca 37-39 (06 20 231 7368 mobile/www.pussydeluxe. hu). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 11am-2pm. Credit MC, V. Germany’s girlie-cutsie chic underwear tease here, the collection comes complete with daywear, accessories, home goodies and special scents. Other locations: Westend City Center (Váci út 1-3); Mammut I. (Lövőház utca 2-6).

Sterling Galéria IX. Ráday utca 31 (323 0037/www.sterling-galeria.hu). M3 Kálvin tér/bus 8, 112. Mon-Fri noon- 8pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit MC, V. A gallery/ shop for the students and friends of silver guru Vladimir Péter (Wladis). Suck Right!

Top shops

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eAt mono Fashion V. Kossuth Lajos utca 20 (06 30 966 8838 mobile/ www.suckright.co.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Credit MC, V. Wednesday Addams morphs into Alice, in Hinterland to have a full English at Marie Antoinette’s in the hands of designer Viktória Csepleő.

Violette Kalapszalon V. Régiposta utca 7-9 (266 0421). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/ tram 47, 49/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am- 6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit MC, V. For the head held high, handmade hats in all styles, fabrics and colours, plus repairs and dry-cleaning.

Wladis Galéria és Műterem V. Falk Miksa utca 13 (354 0834). Tram 2 Parlament. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am- 1pm. Credit MC, V. Vladimir Péter’s signature jewellery at its source: the master has influenced many local disciples, but his own creativity still shines out.

Hungarian designers Anda Emilia V. Galamb utca 4 (06 30 933 9746 mobile/www.andaemi. com). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat 11am-2pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. One of the most revered and inventive couturiers in the industry, Anda designs soft, cerebral and structural women’s collections.

Artista VIII. Puskin utca 19 (328 0290/ www.artistafashion.com). M2 Astoria/ tram 47, 49/bus 7. Open by appointment. No credit cards. The label stands for six quirky designers on the cutting edge.

Boutique 19 Aréna Pláza VIII. Kerepesi út 9 (06 70 335 0793 mobile/www.ourstyle.hu). Mon-Sat 10am-6pm or by appointment. No credit cards. Multi-brand showroom specialising in the very crème of Hungarian designers on the cutting edge, plus personal shopping service.

Christina Designer Shop V. Semmelweis utca 8 (318 5006/www.christinastudio. hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Dream-like, diaphanous sleepwear and luxurious bathrobes in singular design are all made in-house. Also beachwear like beach wraps and bags.

daalarna V. Alkotmány utca 16 (06 30 241 7175 mobile/www.daalarna.hu). M3 Nyugati pu./tram 2 Szalay utca. Mon-Fri noon-6pm. Credit MC, V. Bespoke work by Anita Benes: exquisitely executed clean and cleverly coutured, fantasy wedding gowns, pre-natal couture, daalarna shoes, menswear, bridesmaids wear and evening gowns.

Eclectick V. Irányi utca 20 (266 3341/ www.eclectick.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/ bus 5, 7, 112, 173, 178. Mon-Fri 10am- 7pm; Sat 11am-4pm. Credit MC, V. Happy cotton fashion, Edina Farkas’s Eclectick represents street savvy comfort clothing. Also on the shelves is other work by Hungarian accessories designers.

Égbolt VIII. Somogyi Béla utca 1-2, at Corvin Áruház, on Corvin tető, 4th floor (06 20 772 2984 mobile). M2 Blaha Lujza tér/bus 7, 78. Daily 10pm-club closing hours. No credit cards. Co-located with the hip club Corvintető on the rooftop of the Corvin store. Égbolt stocks limitedseries fashion and accessories by upand- coming Hungarian designers.

Je Suis Belle V. Ferenciek tere 11, 4th floor (951 1353/www.jesuisbelle.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7, 178. Tue-Fri noon-

7pm. No credit cards. Consistently high-quality and inventive, Dalma Dévényi and Tibor Kiss have a collection for women that offers très chic prêt-à-porter on the cutting edge.

Hampel Katalin V. Váci utca 8 (318 9741/www.hampelkati.com). M1 Vörösmarty tér/tram 2. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Katalin Hampel adapts historical Hungarian wear to today’s standards and comfort. Some folklore is also on sale.

kamchatka design V. Nyáry Pál utca 7 (266 1720/www.kamchatkadesign. com). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 5, 7, 112, 173, 178. Mon-Fri noon-6pm; Sat 10pm- 2pm. Credit MC, V. Small series, locally designed and made, casual women’s wear by Márta Schulteisz, accessories and gorgeous textiles.

Katti Zoób V. Szent Istán körút 17 (06 30 657 5794 mobile/www.kattizoob.hu). M3 Nyugati pu./tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 10am- 7pm; Sun 10am-4pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Zoób’s luxurious couture signature chic apart, her collections often reference ancient Hungarian semiotics and Art Deco inspirations.

konsánszky VII. Károly körút 3C, 1st floor/1 (784 9380/www.konsanszky. com). M2 Astoria/bus 5, 7, 112, 178. Tue-Thur 1-6pm. No credit cards. Dóra Konsánszky’s studies in corsetry in France give a structural discipline to an otherwise very mature and feminine collection with a piquant twist. Sexy stuff.

Lollipop Factory V. Váci utca 45 (06 20 485 6630 mobile). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 5, 7, 112, 173, 178. Mon-Fri 10.30am- 7pm; Sat, Sun 11am-5pm. Credit MC, V. Urban freestyle fashions in riotous prints and colours.Other location: V. Magyar utca 18.

Luan by Lucia VI. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 62 1st floor/7 (311 5895). M1 Bajcsy- Zsilinszky út. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Credit AmEx, DC, V. Lucia S Hegyi offers haute and prêt tailoring for both sexes, plus home decor in lavish materials.

Makány Márta Showroom V. Báthory utca 18-20 (311 1949/www.makany marta.com). Tram 2, 4, 6 Margaret Bridge. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat by appointment. Singular haute couture and pret, plus dreamy wedding gowns from one of Hungary’s most established couturiers.

mono Fashion V. Kossuth Lajos utca 20 (317 7789, 06 20 772 5273 mobile/www. monofashion.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Credit MC, V. This shop stocks the very best small-series creations by harderto- find Hungarian designers: hats by Marianne Bara, and accessories by Suck Right!. They also carry their own line, NUBU, for women, men and kids.

My Day III. Bécsi út 65 (06 70 312 4427 mobile). Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-4pm. Credit MC, V. Women’s fashions withhome-bred debutant Dóra Mojzes and local bigwigs nanushka and USE.

nanushka V. Deák Ferenc tér 17 (202 1050, 214 1729/www.nanushka.hu). M1 M2 M3 Deák tér. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm Credit MC, V. The queen of comfie cool cotton, Szandra Sándor, set up shop in a Buda location to showcase her black, grey and white-inspired women’s wear.

Naray Tamas Atelier VI. Hajós utca 17 (266 2473/www.naraytamas.hu). M1 Opera/bus 105. Mon-Fri noon-8pm; Sat

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Style10am-2pm. No credit cards. Tamás Náray churned out hundreds of ball gowns for the endless Hungarian seasons of ‘Strictly Come Dancing’, opened a lavish boutique on the city’s Champs- Elysées, and outfits the well-heeled.

Orlando V. Zoltán utca 11 (311 8242/ www.orlandocollection.hu). M2 Kossuth tér/tram 2. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-1pm. No credit cards. Éva Halász and Ágota Nagy bring on affordable off-the-peg and bespoke prêt-à-porter, haute and wedding collections, plus shoes.

PAZICSKI V. Heinszlmann Imre utca 3 (411 0631/www.pazicski.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 5, 7, 112, 178. Mon- Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-5pm. Credit MC, V. Stunning womenswear from the hands of Miklós Pazicski, in a perfect fusion of architectural structure and fluid femininity. Hungary’s Choo, Réka Vágó’s shoes also grace his shelves.

Retrock Deluxe V. Henszlmann Imre utca 1 (06 30 678 8430 mobile/www. retrock.com). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7, 78. Mon-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-3.30pm. Credit MC, V. Up-andcoming Hungarian labels USE Unused, nanushka, Tamara Barnoff and Je Suis Belle offer their small -series, internationally stocked fashion. A destination shop known for its ambience.

Sándor Lakatos VI. Andrássy út 31 (06 30 460 1117 mobile/www.sandorlakatos.com). By appointment. No credit cards. Men’s bespoke tailoring on the cutting edge – out there, for some perhaps far out.

sentiments V. Reáltanoda utca 19 (06 20 805 4561 mobile/www.sentimentscouture. hu). Mon- Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10.30am- 3.30pm. Credit MC, V. Beatrix

Joó alone carries on the couture she and the late Andor Kovács fleshed out to dress women in lush and lavish couture pieces.

Ticci VI. Nagymező utca 37-39 (www.ticci.hu) at Glamour Shop. M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 11am- 2pm. No credit cards. Stefánia Ágoston designs vivacious retro rockabilly.

International fashions AJ V. Petőfi Sándor utca 10 (411 0020). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7, 78, 173. Mon- Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Armani Jeans sits comfortably together with DKNY and Moschino Jeans in this small established favourite.

Burberry VI. Andrássy út 24 (302 0628/ www.burberry.com). M1 Opera/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Once worn as gabardine, regulation style during World War I, the signature trenchcoat sported by Bergman, Bogart and the Pink Panther is now contemporary.

Byblos V. Deák Ferenc utca 17 (337 1908). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-5pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Manuel Facchini’s design sources inspiration from contemporary art and architecture for Byblos and the younger diffusion Blu Byblos collections. Rocco Barocco and Galliano for men also available in the shop.

Calvin Klein XII. Alkotás út 53 (877 9616). Tram 61/bus 212 Csörsz utca. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-5pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The US’answer to minimalism remains firmly set on just that: simple but luxurious clothes for women and men.

Capsula VI. Andrássy út 9 (550 0600). M1 Opera. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Credit

AmEx, DC, MC, V. Multi-brand fashion haven for la moda italiana, for both sexes: Dolce &Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, YSL, Givechy, Tom Ford, Blumarine, Cesare Paciotti, Prada.

Cream V. Deák Ferenc utca 15 (06 30 992 5901 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 105. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. This multi-brand retailer’s selection proffers much to both men and women: Bally, Just Cavalli, Karl Lagerfeld et al.

D&G VI. Andrássy út 33 (235 0504). M1 Oktogon/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 11am-6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Main line Dolce & Gabbana as well as diffusion line D&G bear the inimitable markings of Sicilian Domenico Dolce and Milanese Stefano Gabbana’s Italian estilo di vita, North and South in one. The design is lavishly sexy, exuberantly lively and cheekily flirtatious.

Dagminell Danish Design V. Szent István tér 2 (266 9919/www.dagminell. com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 16, 105. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-3pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. If you like Danish Design, this is your bags and fashion accessories destination as the centrally located outpost of the Copenhagen classic brings cool chic to the Basilica.

Emporio Armani VI. Andrássy út 9 (550 0300). M1 Opera. Mon-Sat 10.30am- 7.30pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The Armani family’s street-chic must-haves for both sexes, Armani Jeans plus AE7.

Ermenegildo Zegna VI. Andrássy út 5 (266 1794). M1 Bajcsy Zsilinszky út. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-5pm. Credit All Cards. One of the first luxury brands to dare the local luxury market,

Zegna showcases its high end and sports collections.

Escada V. Dorottya út 3 (266 9662). M1 Vörösmarty tér. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat, Sun 11am-7pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. German-based fashion house for the discerning frau.

Gucci VI. Andrássy út 23 (322 0971). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am- 1pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Dressed in gilt, the Italy’s iconic luxury house brings its best for women to town, fabulous bags and a whole slew of must-have accessories. Menswear too.

Heaven V. Fehérhajó utca 12-14 (266 3336/www.heavenstore.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Multi-brand shop with Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Chloe, Patrizia Pepe, Barbara Bui for women and G-Star and YSL for men.

Hugo Boss V. Deák Ferenc utca 15 (266 4356, 06 30 992 5901 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 10am-7pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The heritage Deák Palace houses the Boss brand.

Lacoste V. Deák Ferenc utca 21 (266 9792). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The comeback crocodile, Lacoste is originally the handiwork of a tennis champion. Offloading its 80s bourgeois baggage, the collection now features fresh and youthful high street garments.

Látomás VII. Dohány utca 16-18 (266 2158/www.latomas.hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49. Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm; Sat 11am-4.30pm. No credit cards. Julie Szontagh’s empire of now three shops import limited series prêt-à-porter at

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ehigh-street prices. Other locations: VI. Király utca 39 (786 6659); V. Párisi utca 4 (786 3296).

Léna & Roselli V. Galamb utca 6 (318 4792). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Now co-habiting with its art gallery, one of the oldest multi-brand boutiques in town, Léna & Roselli stocks Jean-Paul Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana, among other heavyweights.

Louis Vuitton VI. Andrássy út 24 (373 0487/www.louisvuitton.com). M1 Opera/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 11am-6pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Where LV goes, others follow. The first luxury boutique on Andrássy út, it led the market in upmarket brands. This shop stocks bags, luggage and accessories only.

Max Mara VI. Andrássy út 21 (413 0717). M1 Opera/bus 105. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 11am-6pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Minimalism made magical – sorry, women only.

Metropolitan V. Aulich utca 4-6 (302 5243/www.metropolitanbudapest.hu). M2 Kossuth tér. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A beauty shop in more ways than one, Metropolitan’s three floors offer the full bodyworks: Clarins facials; full body massages, and moda Italiana fabulosa: Moschino Cheap and Chic, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti and Pollini.

Tailor Salon VII. Akácfa utca 41, near Wesselényi utca (478 0000). M2/bus 7, 173, 5 Blaha Lujza tér. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Tuxedo and tail coat rental - you’ll find a huge range of waistcoats matching evening suits. Suit Shop and Custom Tailor - the tailoring manufacture is specialized for custom tailoring of exclusive men’s and women’s apparel: suits, women’s suits, coats, based on traditional English tailoring.

United Colors of Benetton V. Deák Ferenc utca corner & Bécsi utca 5 (06 30 682 3617 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 105. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- 6pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Benetton’s bright designs for men, women and kids bring Italian flair to the high street.

Shoes & leather goods Cipőkészítő Kkt IX. Vámház körút 7 (218 7893). M3 Kálvin tér/tram 47, 49. Mon- Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm. No credit cards. Simple shoes and sandals, some handmade by this local cobbler. A reborn commie legend, Alföldi Cipő

is also sold here, with Alföldi papucs (round, almost bulky slippers for men and women) enjoying cult status and a bit of a revival.

FEHER In mono Fashion V. Kossuth Lajos utca 20 (06 20 480 8088 mobile/www. feherdesign.co.uk). M3 Ferenciek tere/ bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am- 6pm. Credit MC, V. József Fehér works his minimalist magic on leather to create optically inspired bags for men and women.

Havalda Leather VI. Hajós utca 23 (06 30 361 5945 mobile/www.havalda.hu). M1 Opera. Tue-Fri 11am-7pm. No credit cards. Pet necessities are also available here, such as bespoke collars studded with Swarovski crystals for glam kittens and dandy dogs. All kinds of custom leather goods available.

Tailors AIAIÉ (06 30 906 3109 mobile/www. aiaie.wordpress.com). By appointment. No credit cards. Zsanett Hegedűs offers her haute/pret made-to-measure services for day as well as evening. Also available here are Argentex pillows, laced with anti-bacterial silver threads.

dressME I. Batthyány utca 10 (787 0079/www.dressme.hu). Bus 11, 39, 111 Csalogány utca/Fazekas utca. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. No credit cards. An expat favourite, Mongolian and graduate of Hungary’s fashion Institute Soko Andaan brings quality tailoring and alterations to town, relying on staff who once worked as seamstress for the commie garment manufacturers. Expert workmanship hard to come by.

Ferdinand Max III. Bécsi út 85 (06 70 238 1707 mobile/www.szabosag.hu). Bus 86 Bécsi út. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit MC, V. Ring, ring – the tailor’s arrived. Ferdinand Max comes to your house to take measurements, that is how personal the service gets. Quality apart, distinguishing details and expert advice complete your outfit(ting).

Ingkészítő VI. Nagymező utca 7 (282 0665). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 10am- 6pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Credit MC, V. Ms Fleischer’s thriving small business on Budapest’s Broadway makes exquisite shirts to order.

Különleges textíliák boltja V. Petőfi Sándor utca 18 (318 7332). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/tram 47, 49. Mon-Fri 10am- 6pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Founded as far back as the turn of the last century and preserving the feel of a dry-goods store, this recommended

emporium carries fine lace, velvet silks and woollens stacked up on expansive shelves lining wood-panelled walls.

Orsi Divat VII. Madách utca 3 (06 20 529 2914 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/ bus 16, 105. Mon-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-3pm or by appointment. Orsolya Lászlófi has been an expatriate favourite, whatever the job: alterations or stylish bigger sizes or ballgowns.

Pelote VI. Andrássy út 15 (411 1615). M1 Opera. Mon-Wed, Fri, Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm. Credit MC, V. Pelote specialises in made-to-measure shirts, shoes and suits, and accessories for the high flyer, for both sexes.

Simon Skottowe VII. Székely Mihály utca 4-6 (06 30 280 1960 mobile/www. simonskottowe.com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/ tram 47, 49. By appointment. No credit cards. Simon Skottowe presents his Savile Row skills to create exquisite British standard bespoke suits and tuxes, and shirts, the latter with Vienna’s Gino Venturini.

Tailor Salon - Repair & Alteration VII. Akácfa utca 41, near Wesselényi utca (478 0000). M2/bus 7, 173, 5 Blaha Lujza tér. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Men’s and women’s suit, shirt, blouse, jacket, blazer, trousers, skirt repairing, alteration, re-modeling. Cloth cleaning, professional stain removal.

Vintage clothing Tetőcsere VIII. Somogyi Béla utca 1-2, in Corvin Áruház, on Corvin tető, 4th floor (06 20 398 1956 mobile). M1 Blaha Lujza tér/bus 7, 78. Daily 8pm-club closing hours. No credit cards. Co-located with the hip club Corvintető on the rooftop of Corvin, a department store, Tetőcsere is Égbolt’s offshoot, to offer second hand clothes swap: bring along any items and walk away with as many as you have brought. Admission to Tetőcsere costs Ft500, which offsets your bar bill in Corvintető.

Jajcica VII. Dohány utca 94 (321 2081). Tram 4, 6/bus 7, 78, 173 Blaha Lujza tér. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. No credit cards. Vintage clothing from the ’60s, ’ 70s and ’80s. This lovingly collected trove turns yesterday’s clothes into today’s fashion statement.

Ómama Antik II. Frankel Leó út 7 (315 0807/www.omamaantik.aw.hu. Tram 2, 4, 6. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. No credit cards. A trove of antique and vintage clothes and accessories in the Buda location, and nifty antique bijoux, rhinestones, beads, semi-precious stones and silverwork in the

shop on the Pest side. Second location V. Szent István körút 1, 312 6812.

Retrock V. Ferenczy István utca 28 (06 30 678 8430 mobile/www.retrock.com). M2 Astoria/bus 7, 8. Mon-Fri 10.30am- 7.30pm, Sat 10.30am-3.30pm. No credit cards. Beyond retro into cutting-edge couture. Second-hand and re-styled second-hand fashions become one-ofa- kind funky masterpieces in the hands of fashionista Róbert Líbor and team. Alterations also provided.

Szputnyik Bazaar IX. Bakáts tér 8. (www.szputnyikshop.hu). Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. A shop with a cleverly curated selection of vintage and hot new fashions.

Beyond clothesFlea markets & bric-a-brac Antik Bazár VII. Klauzál utca 1 (322 8848/www.antik-bazar.uw.hu). M2 Astoria/bus 7, 78. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. No credit cards. If you ever wondered about that thin line between vintage valuable and geriatric junk, it is here that you will keep wondering in amazement. The stock is impossible to list but it reviews recent history, including a commie catalogue of red memories.

Ecseri XIX. Nagykőrösi út 156. Bus 54, 55 Alvinc utca. Mon-Fri 8am-4pm; Sat 8am- 4pm. No credit cards. The mother of all flea markets includes a warren of antique dealers’ shacks serving big buyers from the West; on Saturday the areas filled with weekend vendors spreading their wares on blankets and card tables. Goodies range from genuine antique treasures of all sorts to junk of all sorts.

Folklore Folkart Centrum V. Váci utca 58 (318 4697/www.folkartcentrum.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7. Daily 10am-7pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Your best bet for folk items on Váci; hundreds of local artists sell their wares here, taking inspiration from all regions of Hungary. Wooden knick-knacks, embroidery and clothing, plus rugs and hand-painted pottery.

Folkart Gallery V. Vitkovics Mihály utca 12 (317 8103). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/ bus 7. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am- 1pm. No credit cards. László Holló’s authentically traditional folk decoratives are matched in naive and simple beauty with original work from the countryside. From figurines to furniture.

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Style

WellnessPublic spas Gellért Gyógyfürdő XI. Kelenhegyi út 4(466 6166). Tram 18, 19, 47, 49/bus 7. Mixed daily 6am-8pm. Ft2,600-Ft4,500. Credit MC, V. The most expensive of all the baths, but you do get an art nouveau pool. The separate thermal baths – one for men, one for women – are accessible from the main pool.

Király Gyógyfürdő II. Fő utca 84 (202 3688). M2 Batthyány tér. Daily 9am-9pm; Ft2,300. Cash only. A significant Ottoman monument, with a beautiful cupola sheltering an ancient stone pool, provides a sombre and soothing place to soak. Construction of the Turkish part was begun in 1566 and completed by Pasha Sokoli Mustafa in 1570. Located within the Víziváros town walls, it meant the Ottoman garrison could enjoy a soak even during the siege.

Lukács Gyógyfürdő és Strandfürdő II. Frankel Leó út 25-29 (326 1695). Tram 4, 6. Daily 6am-8pm. Ft1,870- Ft3,000. Cash only. A complex of two outdoor pools and thermal baths. The Turkish-period baths haven’t retained many original features, and the layout is different from the other Turkish places. There’s something of an institutional feel to the warren-like facility, not least because a main hospital for rheumatism and arthritis is next door.

Rudas Gyógyfürdő I. Döbrentei tér 9 (356 1010). Tram 18, 19/bus 7. Men Mon, Wed 6am-6pm & Thur-Fri 6am-8pm; women Tue 6am-6pm; mixed Fri 10pm-4am, Sat 6am-5pm, 10pm-4am & Sun 6am-8pm. Ft1,350-Ft3,300. Credit MC, V. The most atmospheric of the original Turkish baths, especially when rays of sunlight stab through windows in the domed roof

and fan out through the steam above the central pool. The original cupola, vaulted corridor and main octagonal pool have been restored.

Széchenyi Gyógyfürdő és Strandfürdő XIV. Állatkerti körút 11 (363 3210). M1 Széchenyi fürdő. Mixed daily 6am-10pm. Ft2,350-Ft3,750. In the City Park, this is a large, ornate complex of pools and thermal baths, outdoor and in. The best choice for a day of relaxation – guests can exercise, laze and sunbathe all on one site, which fosters an endearing holiday atmosphere, with whirlpools indoor and out and a terrace cafeteria.

Public swimming pools Aquaworld IV. Íves út 16 (231 3600/www.aqua-world.hu/en). Daily 6am-10pm. Adult entry with locker Ft4,900-Ft5,700 (for two hours, Ft2,500). One of the biggest indoor water theme parks in Europe, with some outdoor pools too, Aquaworld has 11 waterslides and a separate sauna area. It’s on the edge of town, but ask about shuttle buses.

Sportuszoda III. Árpád fejedelem útja 8 (212 2750). Bus 86/HÉV Szépvölgyi út. Daily 6am-7pm. Adult entry with locker: Ft1,700.Hungary’s national swimming stadium is packed for top water polo matches and major swimming galas, but the outdoor lap pool is generally given over to open swimming and sunbathing, and the lanes are rarely too crowded.

Therapies & treatments Danubius Health Spa Resort Margit- sziget Margitsziget XIII. Margit-sziget (889 4700/www.danubiushotels.com/ margitsziget). Daily 6.30am-9.30pm. Myriad treatments in this complex with its own hot springs.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace Spa V. Széchenyi tér 5-6 (268 5500/www. fourseasons.com/budapest/spa). Daily 6am-10pm. Soak in wine or test the marble-encased jacuzzi and saltwater pool in this sumptuous rooftop spa.

Isis Day Spa VIII. Üllői út 14 (266 7788/www.isisdayspa.hu). Daily 10am-10pm. Turkish and Roman spa ser vices and couples packages available.

Kempinski Spa (Kempinski Hotel Corvinus) V. Erzsébet tér 7-8 (429 3777/

www.kempinski.com/budapest). Daily 7am-10pm. Balinese, Ayur veda and Phytomer treatments and relaxation massages for men.

Mandala Day Spa XIII. Ipoly utca 8(801 2561/www.mandaladayspa.hu).Daily 10am-10pm. Enjoy head-to-toe massages and exquisite spa services.

New York Palace VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11 (886 6125/www.boscolohotels.com). Daily 8am-9pm. Indulgent treatments that last for hours and feel great.

Royal Spa (Corinthia Hotel) VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49 (479 4653/www.corinthia.com). Daily 6.30am-10am. A wide range of treatments in lovely and lavish surroundings.

FitnessGyms Andi Studio V. Hold utca 29 (311 0740/www.andifitness.hu). M2 Kossuth tér/M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Fri 6am-9pm; Sat, Sun 9am-2pm. The city’s first West- ern-style gym, operating for 20 years. Aerobics classes, weight equipment.

Astoria Fitness Centre V. Károly körút 4 (317 0452/www.astoriafitness.hu). M2 Astoria. Mon-Fri 6.30am-midnight; Sat, Sun 10am-9pm. Popular, well-appointed city-centre gym, with fair prices and day passes. Branch VII. Dohány utca 32.

ATSA Fitness I. Pálya utca 9 (488 7220/www.atsa.hu). M2 Déli pu. Mon-Fri 7am-11pm; Sat, Sun 9am-9pm. Freemotion machines and two squash courts, not to mention free child care.

Brill Fitness XIII. Váci út 28 (329 6652/www.brillfitness.hu). M3 Lehel tér. Mon-Fri 6am-10pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 9am-7pm. Affordable and reasonably central gym with lots of perks, such as Technogym equipment, saunas, a steam room and lots of aerobics workouts.

Gilda Max Six locations in Budapest(www.gilda-max.hu). Daily 24hrs. The only 24-hour gym in Budapest has affordable memberships and infrasauna.

Gold Centre XI. Budafoki út 111-113 (206 2756/www.goldcenter.hu). Bus 33,103. Mon-Fri 6am-midnight; Sat, Sun 8am-midnight. Reasonably modern facil-

ity in south Buda with squash courts and indoor football, aerobics, billiards.

Lite Wellness XII. Csörsz utca 14-16 (310 7390/www.litewellness.hu). Tram 61. Mon-Fri 6am-10.30pm; Sat, Sun 8am-9.30pm. TechnoGym system com- puterises your workout. State-of-the art gadgets, as well as a kinesis machine, four squash courts and several aerobic work-out rooms. Branch XI. Kánai út 2.”

MoM Wellness XII. Alkotás út 53 (487 5600/www.momwellness.hu). M2 Déli pu., then tram 18, 61. Mon-Fri 6.30am-10pm; Sat, Sun 9am-8pm. Lots of classes for mums, aqua fitness and swimming for infants and children.

Oxygen Wellness IV. Árpád út 47-49 (799 7990/www.oxygenwellness.hu). M3 Újpest központ. Mon-Fri 6am-10.30pm; Sat, Sun 8am-8pm. Modern 7,000sqm facility with top-of-the-line equipment and spa has more than 100 Technogym cardio and weight-training machines and a swimming pool. Branches XIII. Fáy utca 45 (888 3210), I. Czakó utca 2-4 (06 20 393 4219 mobile).”

Sport Templom XIII. József Attila tér 4 (06 30 747 2559 mobile/www.sporttemplom.hu). M3 Dózsa György út. Mon-Fri 6.30am-10pm; Sat, Sun 8am-2pm. Well appointed facility specialising in mar tial ar ts and circuit training.

World Class Health Academy (www.worldclass.hu). III. Nagyszombat utca 1, HÉV Tímár utca; V. Apáczai Csere János utca 4-6, M1 Vörösmarty tér; Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat, Sun 8am-9pm. Sophisticated chain out of Sweden with two branches.

Yoga & Pilates Anandi Yoga VI. Nagymező utca 21 (06 30 273 9400 mobile/www.anandi.hu). M1 Oktogon. Mon-Sat drop-in sessions from 7.30am-7pm. Hatha yoga, pregnant yoga, Reiki and foot massage.

Monsoon Yoga and Pilates II. Pasaréti út 49 (200 7532/www.monsoonyoga.hu). Mon-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat 9am-7pm. Hot, power yoga, Hatha, Ashtanga and Iyengar.

Pilates Balance Studio VI. Eötvös utca 29 (06 70 310 9000 mobile/www.pilatesbudapest.hu). M1 Oktogon. Mon-Fri 7am-9pm or by appointment. Specialising in one-on-one training, provided by STOTT Pilates pros who speak English.

Wellness & Fitness

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Trav

el

Travel

High above us, the road wound up and up. Cars looked like grains of couscous; trucks like grains of couscous pulling

grains of rice. Snow, goats, donkeys and Berber women clung to the mountainsides. Around every bend there might be an impromptu souk (market) of animals spilling across the road, the men staring down the tourists in our fancy 4x4s: they favour open Toyota pickups, the pointy-hooded djellebahs of the occupants making them look like they are packed with Christmas trees. We were on the way to Kasbah Telouet, mountain stronghold of the Glaoui clan, three hours’ drive south of Marrakech. In the summer, this is a popular trip out of town. In the winter there are fewer coaches, but just as many hazards to negotiate. The

French Foreign Legion constructed the road in the ’30s, as they sought to extend colonial rule over Morocco’s hinterland. Telouet, armed, danger-ous, some 7,000ft above sea level and run by an anti-French fanatic, Hammou, was considered a suffi-cient threat for the road builders to detour round it. Yet only 25 years lat-er it was abandoned, and when we finally arrived we found a pictur-esque semi-ruin undergoing a piece-meal restoration. Superbly carved ceilings sagged; tiled walls bulged; birds sat and shat on the green glazed roof. In the background the mountains were still and unper-turbed. A Berber lad called Omar showed us round, then shared a lunch of bread, cheese and mint tea with us. Progress seemed to have stalled here, in a good way. The kas-bah (palace) was gently crumbling back into the soil: another chapter of

Morocco’s history closing. Marrakech has always had a certain glamorous cachet. When Winston Churchill visited Telouet in the ’30s it was at the invitation of Hammou’s uncle, Thami El Glaoui, ‘Lord of the Atlas’: a tribal warlord installed by the French to run Marrakech. The city already held a fascination for Europeans, and El Glaoui played up to his role as a mysterious Berber chieftain in between rounds of golf on his lavishly appointed and wellwa-tered links. Churchill came to Marrakech to relax, write and paint; the last was something he later encouraged Thami El Glaoui’s son Hassan to pursue. Hassan, who went on to be one of Morocco’s most respected artists, is very obviously the natural painter: his canvases glow with the rich earthy pigments of the area. You see the same duns and ochres in the walls of Kasbah

Telouet, and there is still a bylaw in Marrakech that all buildings should be painted a pinkish-orange colour. Churchill’s works are stiffer: by his own admission he was a ‘Sunday painter’, yet what is most remarkable about the show is how familiar the subject matter of both artists is today. Okay, Hassan is still with us, but even his early gouaches from the 1940s show scenes and people that you will find in today’s Medina (the old city): the caleches (carriages) on Jemaa El Fna, the square that is the pulsing heart of the city; water-sellers and Berber women hawking jewellery and textiles; endless palm trees (some of them now mobile phone masts in disguise) and the evervisi-ble tower of the Koutoubia Mosque. All of it suffused with the astonish-ingly clear and immediately recogni-sable light of the city. This ‘local colour’ has remained the one con-

In search of local colourArtists love Marrakech for its painterly palette, but the city is also a potted history

of chic tourism, says Chris Waywell.

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Travel

stant as ideas about what is charming or chic in Marrakech have changed over the years. Churchill might have found plenty of subject matter here, but he had reservations: ‘Although the native city is full of attractive spots, the crowds, the smells and the general discomfort have repelled me,’ he wrote to his wife in the ’30s. Luckily for the city, and the modern visitor, this ‘discomfort’ has not been entirely eradicated. Despite a clamp-down on the most aggressive hawk-ers by the tourist police, the souks are still a large-ly unmoderated free-forall. Chickens are butchered in the street, and a woman with a ban-daged nose wished us ‘Bonsoir’ as she squatted to piss near the entrance to our riad. The olfactory GBH of the egg market on a hot day remains a terrible mem-ory. Jemaa El Fna is a riot round the clock: crowds gather around story-tellers and a whole brigade of hot-food vendors set up and take down their stalls every night. There’s no

shortage of crap for tourists: grumpy monkeys to be snapped with and henna tattooists that are the stuff of tabloid xenophobia, but this is mostly window-dressing; the Medina works to its own needs, and though full-on, is generally goodnatured and very safe. The explosion of riads – splen-did courtyarded townhouses – in the last decade has made these the norm when it comes to choosing decent accommodation and has ensured Marrakech a steady supply of tourist dirhams. Churchill preferred the cloistered precincts of La Mamounia (Ave Bab Jedid; + 212 524 388 600/www. mamounia.com): for decades Marrakech’s poshest destination hotel. It’s still going strong, though after a recent revamp has lost much of its colonial character, and stands in part as a reminder of an era when the personal touch was not high up a list of hotel’s priorities. Now its snooty airs seem an anachronism: like furs and titles, there’s something faintly embarrassing about them. The gar-dens are still worth visiting, though they won’t let you in to them without a table reservation. Instead, visit the Majorelle Gardens (Ave Yacoub El Mansour), surrounding a villa owned by the late Yves Saint Laurent. They evoke the jet-set Marrakech, and are open to all (often too many): dense

planting, delicate pools and shaded paths create a tranquil haven, while ‘Majorelle Blue’ has established itself firmly on the Moroccan palette. Our taste for ’60s glam-our piqued, we decamped to Marrakech’s other hospitality institution, Es Saadi (Rue Ibrahim El

Manzini; + 212 5 24 33 86 00/ www.essaadi.com). Morocco’s first casino when it opened in 1952, Es Saadi is still run by the same family, and offers a glimpse of the playground of the beau mondeof the era. Churchill

came here to gamble, they gave Charles Aznavour his first residency and the Stones famously stayed in the hotel. ‘They were on the fifth floor, and we put no one on the fourth,’ said Elisabeth Bauchet- Bouhal, daughter of Es Saadi’s founder. With its cocktails and Dunhill fags behind the bar, the place has a Graham Greene-ish air about it, though it’s also home to the city’s hip-pest club, Theatro. It’s a reminder that the Medina, with its souksand smells and omnipresent motorbikes millimetres from disaster, is not everyone’s idea of a romantic idyll. Chic Moroccans and many visitors never set foot in the Medina, and Es Saadi was full of badly dressed but evidently well-off Russians who didn’t look like they were about to haggle over a pair of pointy yellow leather slippers any time soon. The ‘historic’ in Marrakech is often pack-aged to visitors through its markets, palaces, mosques and museums, and these do offer compelling reasons to visit. Equally, the light and the land-scape captivated both Churchill and Hassan El Glaoui, both powerful men from very different backgrounds who were happy to find inspiration in a culture that had not changed for hundreds of years. But the ongoing story of Marrakech is just as engag-ing, and the way it has been interpret-ed over the last century through dif-ferent ideas of travel, tourism, cachet and cool has a lot to reveal about our attitudes to the ‘foreign’, especially if it’s right on our doorstep. It may have a film festival and an art biennale now, but the heart of the place remains at a more elemental level: in its light and earth and water, and the importance they hold for its popula-tion scratching a living. ‘People say, “Oh, Marrakech has changed, it’s not the same,” ’ said Bauchet-Bouhal, ‘but why should it be? It’s like differ-ent generations: a grandmother, mother and daughter.’

GET PACKING

Go There are no direct �ights to Morocco but KLM, Alitalia, Swissair are great options to arrive at Marrakech, fares from Ft80,000

Stay Riad Kaïss (65 Derb Jedid; + 212 24 44 01 41/www.riadkaiss.com) is a superb riad arranged across three �oors and two courtyards, with Fez-style tilework, a plunge pool and onsite cookery school. Well situated in the Medina, it’s the epitome of Marrakech sophistication. Highly rec-ommended. Riad Dar Fakir (16 Derb Abou El Fadali; + 212 524 44 11 00/www.darfakir.co.uk) is coolly contem-porary, and featured in ‘Made in Chelsea’.

Eat The food may be a tasteful update of traditional Moroccan dishes, and the service is impeccable, but Le Salama (40 Rue des Banques; + 212 524 39 13 00/www.lesalama.com) is about one thing: being seen. This res-taurant and bar is attracting hip locals back into the Medina. Still a laugh, if you approach it in the right spirit. Grand Café de la Poste (Ave Imam Mailk; 00 212 524 43 30 38/www.grandcafe delaposte.com) offers a touch of colonial swagger, plus well-priced classic dishes and cocktails.

The Medinaisn’t

everyone’sidea of aromantic

idyll

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Aro

und

Tow

n

Area 51 Project, the newest attraction in Budapest, will send visitors at warp factor fi ve into a fascinating new realm. It’s a theatrical spectacle takes visitors to the mystical world of UFOs through the medium a 70 minute show.

We probably all imagine extrater-restrial life in space and on distant planets in variety of ways, but some of the more common ones are little greenish grey creatures with enor-mous eyes, huge heads and weirdly shaped ears. Now the truth or at least one possible version of it will be revealed, after decades of secrecy,

actually years of planning by Tibor Vona, master of the Area 51 Project and the writer of the screenplay.

This unique experience is delivered by 80 actors in a 1550 m2 hangar. During the course of the performance the ‘audience’ becomes part of a series of stories far removed from every day life on earth. These include visiting a huge, 15 and a half metre diameter UFO, and a simulation of an ‘isolation process’.

‘The UFO question excites people worldwide, as proven by the ever-pop-ular sci-fi blockbusters and TV series. Everyone struggles with the same

questions: Do they exist? What do they look like? How do they travel? Do they know about us?’ These are the questions we would like to examine in the course of a spectacular perfor-mance. ‘I sincerely hope to give our visitors an unforgettable experience, and memories for life to take home when leaving the hangar’– says cre-ator Tibor Vona.

The performance demands more from the visitor than simply watching actors on the stage because anyone who enters the hangar immediately becomes an active participant.

Interactive components include

simulation of the UFO catastrophe that supposedly happened in Tunguska, Russia, and the inside view from a giant spaceship fl oating 2.5 meters above the ground.

It is advisable to know that this the-atrical spectacle can be visited in groups of up to 100 people. Groups large and small can enter this excep-tional and unknown world every 50 minutes from 10 am, every day except Monday.

Area 51 Project(XIII. Váci út 152-156, 324 2100/www.ufohangar.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Tickets: Ft3,500.

Around Town

At the Handmade Hungarian Tastes Fair Millenáris Park this November you can see ready evidence that local agriculture and artisan food is on the rise. A little revolution is going on in

the business but we are light years away from what would be desirable. Although markets are again trendy, good quality artisan products are almost always hard to fi nd and expen-

sive in Hungary. Such culinary treats are well below the radar of the bigger part of the Hungarian population, but

they do exist and the 4th Handmade Hungarian Tastes Fair visitors is a good place to sam-ple them. You can stroll around and taste more than 100 different fl a-vored chitterlings, sausages, salamis and 30 different types of new wines. That’s between November 16 and 18, at Millenáris Park in Budapest. Although you can try

a lot of typical, traditional country sau-sages as well as those with daring new sausage seasonings with rosemary or a black pudding stuffed with dried plums either. About 120 Hungarian

manufacturers are represented in the three days of the fair and you can be introduced to all sorts of specialties of honeys, marmalades, fruits syrups, hams, cheeses, fruit spirits (pálinka), spices and dairy products. Different workshops help you to understand how artisan food production works. You can try fi lling sausages with sau-sage meat the traditional way, or have a go at extracting honey. You should also keep in mind that Santa is com-ing so it’s a chance to boost your gift making and preparing skills by learn-ing how to baking braided milk loaf, cocoa rolls or walnut and poppy seed beigli. The other interesting part of the fair - as always - will be the champagne and pálinka show where unique cock-tails, developed especially for this occasion can be enjoyed.

Millenáris B building (II. Kis Rókus utca 16-20). Nov 16 10am-10pm; Nov 17 9am-10pm; Nov 18 9am-8pm. One-day full ticket Ft2,000.

Handmade Hungarian Tastes Fair

Area 51 Project

Around Town

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Around Tow

n

MuseumsAgricultural Museum Mezőgazdasági Múzeum XIV. Vajdahunyad Castle in Városliget (363 2711/www.mezogazdasagimuzeum. hu). M1 Hősök tere. Tue- Sun 10am-6pm; Ft1,500, concs Ft800. Stuffed animals, traditional living and produced goods from hunting and fishing to pottery and farming, housed in a wing of the Vajdahunyad Castle.

Aquincum Museum III. Szentendrei út 139 (250 1650/www.aquincum.hu). HÉV to Aquincum. Museum Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. Ruins Tue-Sun 9am-6pm; Ft1,500, concs Ft650 . Roman treasures in a newly purpose-built setting complemented by outdoor ruins open to the public for six months a year.

Béla Bartók Memorial House Bartók Béla Emlékház II. Csalán utca 29 (394 2100/www.bartokmuseum.hu). Bus 5. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm; Ft1,200, concs Ft500. Built in 1924, this elegant house was the composer’s last residence in Hungary, converted into a museum in 1981 on the centenary of his birth. Bartók composed here in the 1930s before fleeing to America. Artefacts from his travels around Transylvania are the highlights, including a fob watch metronome. Concerts are given in the 120-seat hall upstairs and in the garden.

Budapest History Museum Budapesti Törteneti Múzeum Buda Palace Wing E, I. Szent György tér 2 (487 8801/ www.btm.hu). Várbusz from M2 Széll Kálmán tér/bus 16. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm; Ft1,300, concs Ft650. Beginning with the earliest tribal settlements, artefacts, illustrations and excavation photos (all described in English) trace Budapest’s development up to the present day. Displays focus on key symbols: Charles of Lothringen’s Triumphal Arch to celebrate the defeat of the Ottomans; the Danube; the May Day 1919 red drapes, which represent the Socialist ideal; and contemporary urban sites, including József Finta’s hotels and bank centres contrasted with Imre Makovecz’s organic villas and yurt houses.

Holocaust Memorial Center Holokauszt Emlékközpont IX. Páva utca 39 (455 3333/www.hdke.hu). M3 Corvin-negyed/Klinkák. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft1,400, concs Ft700. This well-conceived and fascinating museum may not have the profile of the House of Terror but is certainly worth the trip to south Pest. The exhibition leads you, via dark corridors and pinpoint lines of white light, against an aural background of soldiers’ boots crunching on gravel, through the horrors here in the last century. Individual family histories personalise this dark era, while the many video films include a time-framed one of a particular day in May, 1944, at Auschwitz-Birkenau. Roma victims are not forgotten, and the walk culminates with a visit to a synagogue.

House of Terror Museum Terror Háza Múzeum VI. Andrássy út 60 (374 2600/ www.terrorhaza.hu). M1 Vörösmarty utca. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft2,000, concs Ft1,000. There’s little doubt as to the nature of this museum as soon as you walk in, a symbols for the Communist and Fascist Arrow Cross Parties straight ahead. This former villa was used by the Arrow Cross Party as a place in which to torture Jews and political opponents

before and during the war; Hungary’s KGB, the ÁVO, simply took it over. Now an award-winning museum revealing the inhumanities of the mid 20th century.

Hungarian National Gallery Magyar Nemzeti Galéria Buda Palace, Wings A, B, C, D, I. Szent György tér 2 (06 20 439 7325, 06 20 439 7331 mobile/ www.mng.hu). Várbusz from M2 Széll Kálmán tér/bus 16. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm; Ft900; concs Ft450. Temporary exhibitions Ft1,900, concs Ft950. This vast museum attempts to chronicle Hungarian art since the birth of the nation. Seeing all six permanent exhibitions of paintings, sculptures, ecclesiastical art, medallions and graphics would require more than one visit. The two collections considered the most important are its 15th- and 16thcentury winged altarpieces and its mid 19th- to early 20th-century art.

Hungarian National Museum Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16 (327 7773/www.hnm.hu). M3 Kálvin tér/M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; exhibitions Ft1,100, concs Ft550; combined with temporary exhibitions Ft1,400, concs Ft700. If you’re going to visit just one museum in Pest, this would be a good choice. The permanent exhibition covers Hungary from its foundation to 1990, in two separate sections bookended by the Turkish withdrawal of 1686. With general documentation of each era in English, the HNM is particularly strong on the 18th and 19th centuries.

Kiscelli Museum III. Kiscelli utca 108 (388 7817/www.btmfk.iif.hu). Tram 17/ bus 165. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft1,000; concs Ft400. Well-hidden in the steep and leafy hills of Óbuda, this exmonastic museum complex houses an important collection of Hungarian art from about 1880 to 1990. The works displayed upstairs include fin-de-siècle masters and paintings influenced by the Impressionists, Pre-Raphaelites, cubists and surrealists.

Ludwig Museum IX. Komor Marcell utca 1 (555 3444/www.ludwigmuseum. hu). Tram 1, 2, 24. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm; Ft2,200, concs Ft1,200. The city’s main showcase for modern and contemporary art is both the first port of call for an up-to-date overview of Central European art since the 1960s and the most prominent outpost of international artistic culture in Hungary today.

Mai Manó Hungarian House of Photography Magyar Fotográfusok Háza a Mai Manó Házban VI. Nagymező utca 20 (473 2667/www. maimano.hu). M1 Opera, Oktogon. Mon-Fri 2-7pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm; Ft500, concs Ft300. Once the studio of court photographer Manó Mai, set in an appropriately photogenic fin-desiècle architectural gem, the House of Hungarian Photography celebrates rich local photographic traditions. With galleries spread over several floors, it presents a reliably eclectic mix of Hungarian and international photographic art. Its street-level café is a destination on its own.

Műcsarnok Palace of Arts/Kunsthalle XIV. Dózsa György út 37 (460 7000/ www.mucsarnok.hu). M1 Hősök tere. Tue, Wed, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur noon-8pm; Ft1,800, concs Ft800. The contemporary-aligned Műcsarnok is in a permanent face-off with the more traditional

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Aro

und

Tow

nMuseum of Fine Arts across Heroes’ Square, competing with huge banners draped over its neo-classical columns, and provocative exhibitions.

Museum of Applied Arts Iparművészeti Múzeum IX. Üllői út 33-37 (456 5187/www.imm.hu). M3 Corvin-negyed/tram 4, 6. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft1,500; concs Ft750. A statue of its architect Ödön Lechner sits outside this magnificent building, an example of his efforts to create a Hungarian style. As the first-floor permanent exhibition outlines, this was created to showcase art objects and furnishings, the first of its kind after London and Vienna. Upstairs is Ferenc Batári’s collection of Ottoman carpets. Detailed explanations in English.

Museum of Ethnography Néprajzi Múzeum V. Kossuth Lajos tér 12 (473 2442/www.neprajz.hu). M2 Kossuth tér/tram 2. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft1,000, concs Ft500. Conceived by Alajos Hauszmann to serve as the Supreme Court, this monumental, giltcolumned edifice with ceiling frescoes by Károly Lotz feels anything but folksy. The permanent exhibition, up the grand staircase, details Hungarian village and farm life, folk art and customs from the end of the 18th century to World War I.

Museum of Fine Arts Szépművészeti Múzeum XIV. Hősök tere (469 7100/ www.szepmuveszeti.hu). M1 Hősök tere. Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm; Ft1,800. An excellent sampling of major European art. Budapest’s major museum of fine arts boasts the biggest collection of Spanish Masters outside of Spain, as well as lots of other Europeans and some impressive rotating exhibitions.

Natural History Museum Magyar Természettudományi Múzeum VIII. Ludovika tér 2-6 (210 1085/ www.nhmus.hu). M3 Klinikák/M3 Nagyvárad tér. Mon, Wed-Sun 10am- 6pm; Ft1,600; concs Ft600. This mish-mash of a museum comprises two main elements: stuffed animals brought back by Hungarian explorer Iván Halász from his travels in Africa; and models of past and current wildlife of the Carpathian Basin.

Petőfi Literary Museum Petőfi Irodalmi Múzeum V. Károlyi Mihály utca 16 (317 3611/www.pim.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/Kálvin tér. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Ft800. Set in the Károlyi Palace, this underrated attraction is dedicated to the life and works of Hungary’s national poet, Sándor Petőfi, with further displays linked to other giants of Magyar literature. Three rooms, each with a timeline in English and Hungarian, chart the poet’s progress from rural childhood to doomed hero of the War of Independence. In between, Petőfi became the first Hungarian poet to make his living by the pen – note the beautiful edition of his works from 1847 – and kick-started the 1848 uprising against the Habsburgs.

Vasarely Museum III. Szentlélek tér 6 (388 7551/www.vasarely.tvn.hu). HÉV to Árpád-híd/tram 1/bus 6, 86, 106. Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm; Ft800, concs Ft400. Viktor Vasarely is the modern artist credited with starting the Op Art Movement in the 1960s. Vasarely’s patterns create optical illusions and 3D figures. This collection, held in the two-storey wing of the old aristocratic home of the Zichy family, contains some 400 of Vasarely’s works. The exhibition starts

with a self-portrait and striking examples from the start of his career working in advertising design in France then moves upstairs to take in his later, larger pieces.

AttractionsBasilica of St Stephen Szent István Bazilika V. Szent István tér 33 (338 2151). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Sun 1-5pm. Treasury (Ft400) daily 10am-4.30pm. The Basilica was designed in 1845 by József Hild but only consecrated in 1905. Construction was so disrupted by wars and the deaths of its two major architects that one wonders if God actually wanted it built at all. The original dome collapsed in an 1868 storm. Miklós Ybl, the new architect, had the entire building demolished and rebuilt the original neo-classical edifice in the heavy neo-renaissance style favoured by the Viennese Court. It was devastated by Allied bombing and restored in the 1980s.

Citadella XI. Gellérthegy. Bus 27. The Austrians were responsible for these battlements, their commanding view putting the city within easy range should the Magyars choose to rise up as they did in 1848-49. The site now houses a youth hostel, restaurant and an exhibition of the area’s history since its settlement by the Celts. Above stands the statue of Lady Liberty, hoisting a palm frond over her head. It was built by Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl to mark liberation from Nazi rule by Soviet soldiers in 1945. The figure is a rare example of surviving Soviet statuary in Budapest and offers an unparalleled view of the city.

Dohány utca Synagogue/Jewish Museum Dohány utcai Zsinagóga és Zsidó Múzeum VII. Dohány utca 2 (343 6756). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49. Mar-Oct Mon-Thur, Sun 10am-5.30pm, Fri 10am-3.30pm; Nov-Feb Mon-Thur, Sun 10am-3.30pm, Fri 10am-1.30pm; Ft2,000, concs Ft850. Designed by Lajos Förster and completed in 1859, this is the second largest synagogue in the world after New York’s Temple Emmanuel.

Kerepesi Cemetery VIII. Fiumei út 14 (323 5100). M2 Keleti pu./tram 23, 24, 28. Daily 7am-dusk. Planned on a monumental scale, Kerepesi is a fine place for a stroll amid grand memorials to Hungary’s great and good. Wide, leafy avenues direct you towards strategic mausoleums: novelist Mór Jókai and arch-compromiser Ferenc Deák, bourgeois revolutionary Lajos Kossuth and Count Lajos Batthyány. Nearby, musichall chanteuse Lujza Blaha is tucked up in a four-poster bed, serenaded by adoring cherubs. Poet Attila József, thrown out of the Communist Party but rehabilitated in the 1950s, was buried here 20 years after his suicide.

Memento Park XXII. Balatoni út (424 7500/www.mementopark.hu). Bus 3 from tram 47, 49, then bus 50 to terminus. Daily 10am-dusk; Ft1,500; concs Ft1,000. In the early 1990s, when other post-Communist capitals were melting down their statues of Stalin, Marx and fellow travellers, Budapest shifted their metal and stone Socialist-Realist monuments, some 40 of them, many several metres tall, to this park in the middle of nowhere. There’s decent English-language information and subtitled documentaries from the past.

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Art

More than 60 exhibitions, workshops and talks intersect and follow each oth-er at different locations in November, during the Hungarian Month of Photography. This year’s festival – the seventh of its kind – is for the first time

an official mutation of the European Month of Photography, when all across the continent contemporary photogra-phy is in the focus of photography lovers and hopefully a broader public, too.

Different styles and genres, current

European trends or traditions, reality or fiction – practically anybody can find some interesting exhibitions or discussions so their site (www.foto-honap.hu) is a good place to start.

The exhibition titled Rudolf

Balogh (1879-1944) the Master of Photography (Széchenyi National Library, I. Szent György tér 4-6. November 6-December 22. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm.) presents archival docu-ments related to the artist’s birth and family as well as school records and ‘notices’. The prominent photogra-pher’s early works were made when he was a reporter for newspapers and magazines. Visitors can view the origi-nal prints of the photos that show the revolutions in 1918/1919, which have been kept but not displayed in the Széchenyi Library - up until now.

One of the most hyped contempo-rary photographers is Tamas Dezső whose Romania New Work (Várfok Project Room, I. Várfok utca 14. October 25-November 24. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm.) deals with the disap-pearing spiritual traditions and physi-cal heritage of the countryside. All around Eastern Europe, centuries-old traditions are fading away and Dezső has tried to capture those moments where personal stories tell us about general tendencies.

‘This series is a photographic sculp-ture of the great days of my life, hap-pening in the constant present’ says Arion Gábor Kudász about his exhibi-tion Middle. (Faur Zsófi Galéria, XI. Bartók Béla út 25. November 8-December8. Mon-Fri noon-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm.) He started photograph-ing his new family after his wedding in order to build a portrait of the symbio-sis of the different personalities and to document the change of each member throughout the years.

Various locations, more details, events at www.fotohonap.hu

Art

Cézanne and the Past

After six years of hard organizational work – a quest around the globe – more than 150 pieces that summa-rize and contextualize the oeuvre of Paul Cézanne are on display in the Museum of Fine Arts until the end of 17th February 2013.

Like earlier successful mega art events in this institution, the exhibi-tion entitled Cézanne and the Past -

Tradition and Creativity does not only take your knowledge and understand-ing of the great master’s lifework to a whole new level, but the exhibition also shows how and by whom his art was influenced.

The works are on loan from some 40 collections from locations such as London, Zurich, New York, Paris, Chicago, Washington, as well as from

several private collections (in Basel, London, Zurich, Frankfurt and Rio de Janeiro).

The more than a half decade’s work of curator and main organizer Judit Gaskó has paid off very well. The chief works of Cézanne are show-cased in such a way as to illustrate why he is often referred as the go-between of the arts of the 19th and 20th century. While enjoying the per-fection of such masterpieces as the Parisian Card Players (1893-96, Musée d’Orsay, Paris) and the New York Card Players (1890-92, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York), Montagne Sainte-Victoire (1882, The Courtauld Institute,

London) and Montagne Sainte-Victoire with Large Pine (Phillips Collection, Washington D.C.), Harlequin (1888-90, Washington, National Gallery of Art), The Bathers (1899/1904, Chicago, Art Institute), Kitchen Table (1888-90, Musee D’Orsay, Paris) and Madame Cézanne in a Red Armchair (1877, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston) you also have the chance to catch other 40 paintings from his pre-

decessors, demonstrating the simi-larities and differences between them. Where did his art come from and where did his individual innova-tion begin? The answers are on the walls of the Museum of Fine Arts.

From the perspective of art history, as the very first exhibition of Cézanne in Hungary it has come later than it should have, but for lucky visitors to the show it is just the right time. It is advised to buy or book tickets in advance, and set aside at least 1-1,5 hours for visiting.

Szépművészeti Múzeum (XIV. Dózsa György út 41). October 26-February 17. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Hungarian Month of Photography

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Art

Major spacesErnst Museum VI. Nagymező utca 8 (413 1311/www.mucsarnok.hu). M1 Opera. Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. Behind the art nouveau façade of this downtown branch of the Műcsarnok lies one of Budapest’s best contemporar y art spaces, right in the hear t of the city’s Theatre District.

Hungarian National Gallery I. Buda Palace Buildings A, B, C, D, Szent György tér 2 (06 20 439 7325 mobile/www.mng.hu). Bus 16. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission Ft800, concs Ft400. The permanent collection char ts Hungarian art from the Middle Ages to the post-war period, including Socialist Realist works from the 1950s.

Kiscelli Museum – Municipal Picture Gallery III. Kiscelli utca 108 (388 7817/ www.btmfk.iif.hu). Tram 17. Tue- Sun10am-6pm. Admission Ft700; concs Ft350. Ex-monastic museum complex houses the modern art collection of the city of Budapest, as well as holding regular contemporar y art shows. A former church on the grounds hosts unusual exhibition.

Ludwig Museum - Museum of Contemporary Art IX. Komor Marcell utca 1 (375 9175/www.lumu.hu). Tram 1, 2, 24. Tue-Sun 10am-8pm . Admission Temporary exhibitions. Ft1,200, concs Ft600. The country’s leading showcase for contemporary and modern art. Permanent collection of Hungarian and international contemporar y art from the 1960s, from East European Pop art to Fluxus and the New Painting.

Mai Manó Hungarian House of Photography VI. Nagymező utca 20 (473 2667/www.maimano.hu). M1 Opera. Tue-Sun 2-7pm. Admission Ft1,000, concs Ft500. This elegant three storey gallery is devoted to an expanded understanding of photography in contemporary art, and it features local and foreign talent.

Museum of Fine Arts XIV. Dózsa György út 41 (469 7100/www.szepmuveszeti. hu). M1 Hösök tere. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission Ft3,200, concs Ft1,600. Substantial permanent collection with wings devoted to Egyptian ar t, antique sculpture, Old Masters and the Impressionists.

Műcsarnok/Kunsthalle XIV. Dózsa György út 37 (460 7000/www.mucsarnok.hu). M1 Hősök tere. Museum Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm; library & archive Mon-Fri 10am- 6pm. Admission Ft1,200; concs Ft600. Cavernous art space next to Heroes’ Square that hosts major contemporar y exhibitions.

Trafó Galéria IX. Liliom utca 41 (215 1600/www.trafo.hu). M3 Corvin-negyed/ tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 4-7pm; Sun 2-8pm, & one hour before & after theatre performances. The Budapest equivalent of London’s ICA, with theatre, contemporar y dance, bar and one of the city’s best alternative galleries.

Vasarely Múzeum III. Szentlélek tér 6 (388 7551). HÉV Árpád-híd. Tue-Sun 10am- 5.30pm. Admission Ft600, Ft300 concs. Permanent collection shows the work of Hungarian-born, celebrated avantgarde op-ar tist Victor Vasarely, who made it big in the West during the Cold War when he lived and worked in Paris.

Galleries2B Galéria IX. Ráday utca 47 (06 20 993 9361 mobile/www.pipacs.hu/2b/2b. html). M3 Kálvin tér. Mon-Fri 2-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Downtown gallery on busy Ráday utca with an eclectic programme of exhibitions.

A38 Exhibition Space XII. Petőfi Bridge, Buda side. Tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 11am- 6pm. Budapest’s only floating gallery, at a live-music venue.

ACB Galéria VI. Király utca 76 (413 7608/ www.acbgaleria.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Tue-Fri 2-6pm. Private gallery with a focus on emerging artists and international ambitions.

B55 Galéria V. Balaton utca 4 (354 1350/ www.b55galeria.hu). Tram 2, 4, 6. Tue- Fri noon-6pm; Sat 10am-1pm.

Deák Erika Galéria VI. Mozsar utca 1 (201 3740/www.deakgaleria.hu). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6. Wed-Fri noon-6pm; Sat 11am-4pm. Private gallery with a New York vibe specialising in painting and new media art.

Demo Galéria VII. Akácfa utca 51 (06 30 584 5698 mobile/www.demogaleria. hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 4-9pm. Set in the squat-like, ex-dental clinic Fogasház, for ward-looking Demo Galéria is run by the students of the Academy’s curating course.

Három Hét Galéria XI. Bar tók Béla út 37 (06 30 286 9680 mobile/www.haromhet. hu). Tram 47, 49. Tue-Fri 4-8pm;Sat 10am-8pm. The ‘Three Weeks Gallery’ schedules openings and events for the third Wednesday of the month.

Kassák Museum III. Zichy Kastély, Budapest, III., Fő tér 1 (368 7021/www. kassakmuzeum.hu) HÉV suburban train to Szentlélek tér. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm.

Kogart VI. Andrássy út 112 (354 3820/ www.kogar t.hu). M1 Bajza utca.Mon- Fri 10am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission Ft800. Private museum with occasional contemporary shows.

Labor V. Képíró utca 6 (06 70 779 8132 mobile/www.labor.c3.hu). M3 Kálvin tér. Mon-Wed 4-8pm. Progressive art space with occasional shor t-term exhibitions.

Luk VI. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky köz 2, 4th floor (06 30 489 3569 mobile/www.look.org. hu). M1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. Budapest’s unique key-hole exhibition space.

Neón Galéria VI. Nagymező utca 47, 2nd floor (06 20 922 6437 mobile). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 2-6pm. Trend-setting gallery specialises in retro, progressive painters.

Nessim Galéria VI. Paulay Ede utca 10 (06 30 593 6091 mobile/www.nessim. hu). M1 Opera. Mon-Fri 2-6pm. Private gallery specialising in Central-European photography.

NextArt Galéria V. Aulich utca 4-6 (302 7882/www.nextar tgaleria.hu). M2 Kossuth Lajos tér. Tue-Fri noon-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Gallery associated with Budapest’s Moholy-Nagy University of art and Design (MOME).

Platán Galéria VI. Andrássy út 32 (331 1168/331 0341). M1 Opera. Tue-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Gallery of the Polish Cultural Centre with a mixed programme of Hungarian and Polish contemporary art.

Vintage Galéria V. Magyar utca 26 (337 0584/www.vintage.hu). M2 Astoria. Tue-Fri 2-6pm. Leading Hungarian private gallery in Budapest dealing with modern and contemporary photography.

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Boo

ks

Books

Kimball’s fourth novel is the darkly comic

and fully realized fi c-tional memoir of Daniel Carrier, a writ-er who has been haunted for years by the death of his father, Ray. Amid his violent tendencies, love of gambling and collection of Coke memorabilia, Ray was not only larger than life—he was just plain large. Weighing around 500 pounds when he died, Ray left Daniel with shameful memories of his parents fi ghting and divorcing, of Ray

devouring potato chips and fast food. As a child, Daniel believed Ray was ‘the biggest man in the whole world’ until he saw Andre the Giant on TV: ‘He could pick men up who were the size of my father…. After that, every time I looked at my father I felt kind of disap-pointed.’ Every page is soaked with Daniel’s disenchant-ment: Ray’s desper-ate search for his wife after she leaves, his

fi ts of anger, his lingering scent and the furniture that broke under his weight.

But for all of Ray’s girth, the novel is anything but hefty. Rather, Ray is examined through hundreds of vignettes: memories, photographs, fat dad jokes and dead dad jokes. Together, the fragments form a sur-prisingly enthralling portrait of an abusive father who surrendered to self-loathing and a son’s struggle to forget him. Finally, Daniel exposes Ray’s darkest secret, an act so gro-tesque as to eclipse his obesity. Delivered with irreverent sincerity, Daniel’s tale is nothing if unsenti-mental. ‘The more I think about my father, the more I think about myself,’ he confesses. What results is a spell-binding and unfl inching meditation on forgiveness, a novel that secures Kimball’s reputation as a literary innovator. Jonathan Fullmer

This last book by Hitchens, who died of esophageal cancer in December 2011, is tragically

slim. Nonetheless, these essays, many of which originally appeared in Vanity Fair, demonstrate the late master’s ability to tuck sincerity, wit and scorn into a single sentence. Not surprisingly, religion is a major target throughout. In one hilarious moment, Hitchens writes about discovering a website where people can place bets on whether or not he’ll renounce atheism. He pon-ders Pascal’s Gambit but comes to the conclusion that no god would honor such calculated devotion.

While the barbs are as sharp as ever – he convincingly argues that prayer implies God is fl awed – this col-lection more potently offers Hitchens’s dispatches from what he dubs ‘the sick country.’ The place isn’t all bad, yet, ‘the humor is a touch fee-ble and repetitive, there seems to be almost no talk of sex, and the cuisine is the worst of any destination I have ever visited.’ He chronicles his time in ‘tumortown’ not for pity but to moti-vate an attack on subjects like water-boarding, opponents of stem-cell research and the absurd maxim ‘Whatever doesn’t kill me makes me stronger.’

The last essay is unfi nished. After a characteristically pithy start, it dis-solves into a series of loosely connect-ed paragraphs and sentences, reveal-ing a bit about Hitchens’s process, while confi rming that his love of humor endured until the end. Fragments like ‘Not even a race for a cure’ and ‘Nose hairs gone’ hint at a punch line unde-livered. Hitchens went down writing – a gesture of devotion to his fol-lowers, as he aimed for each work to read as if ‘personally addressed’ to the reader. Tyler Leeds

In Junot Díaz’s second short-story collection (his fi rst book since the Pulitzer Prize – winning novel The

Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao), the Dominican-American writer once again details the Caribbean immigrant expe-rience. Throwing no curveballs, he takes readers through the ghettos of New Jersey and the very different ghet-tos of the island – territory he has been exploring since his fi rst collection, Drown, came out in 1996. Some of these nine stories were fi rst published in the ’90s, while the most recent appeared in The New Yorker only this July. The collection is coherent, though; each work explores how love behaves

in poor, unwelcoming neighborhoods.The character Yunior from Díaz’s

other works is the heart of the collec-tion, showing up at different moments in his life. In ‘Nilda,’ we encounter Yunior’s older brother, Díaz’s quintes-sential Dominican male – woman-cra-zy and doomed to a horrible fate. In ‘Invierno,’ we see Yunior’s earliest days in the U.S., when he meets his father and a New Jersey winter for the fi rst time. Díaz accomplishes an impressive feat with Yunior: While he may not be the exact same character in each story, his familiar presence guides the reader through vastly different stages of the immigrant experience.

Flashes of Díaz’s own life appear here and there – Rutgers, a job moving pool tables and a post in one of Boston’s elite schools. But his strongest achievement, and some-thing he has been doing for nearly two decades, is his depiction of love’s uni-versal ability to inspire and incapaci-tate. Díaz’s characters are sweet and honest, but they’re also foolish and compulsive. He has created a portrait not just of the Dominican man but of anyone who has stumbled in and out of love. Tyler Leeds

This is How You Lose Her by Junot Diaz

Books

Mortality by Christopher Hitchens

Big Ray by Michael Kimball

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Books

Shops & Libraries

Shops with books in EnglishAlexandra Párizsi Nagyáruház VI. Andrássy út 39 (484 8000/www.alexandra.hu). M1 Oktogon. Daily 10am-10pm. V. Nyugati tér 7 (428 7070/www.alexandra.hu). M3 Nyugati. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm; Sun 10am-8pm. About a dozen other locations around the city. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Their big shop in the 100-year-old Parizsi Nagyáruház boasts a stunningly restored coffee shop that oozes fin-de-siècle grandeur and is reason enough to visit. Unfortunately, most titles are in Hungarian with only about 2,000 titles in English.

Bestsellers V. Október 6 utca 11 (312 1295). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Fri 9am-6.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10am-4pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The oldest English-language bookshop in the city still has the best selection and service, with more than 10,000 titles in English, the freshest fiction and a speedy and efficient book-ordering service. This is the place to check for that new novel. Also a good selection of foreign magazines and newspapers.

Book Station XIII. Katona József utca 13 (413 1158/www.bookstation.hu).

M3 Nyugati pu. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Half-sunken cellar in Újlipótváros has an impressive collection of about 5,000 titles on the shelves, including what may be the city’s biggest display of fiction in English for sale. Excellent browsing, and a good ordering service.

CEU Bookshop V. Zrínyi utca 12 (327 3096/). M3 Arany János utca. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. As the main distributor for CEU Press, they boast one of the most comprehensive collections of English-language books about Central and Eastern Europe.

Massolit VII. Nagy Diófa utca 30-32 (788 5292). Tram 4, 6 Wesselényi utca. Mon-Fri 10-8pm; Sat 10-4pm. After ten years of selling English-language books in Krakow, Massolit opened a branch in Budapest, which continues the mother shop’s dedication to fiction and non-fiction about the region. On the site of the old Austeria bookstore, the new shop is an attractive place for browsing, with two separate rooms and a café. The collection is especially strong on academic books about this part of the world but the shop also stocks classics, popular fiction and contemporary literature.

Pendragon XIII. Pozsonyi út 21-23 (349 3049). Tram 2, 4, 6 Jászai Mari tér. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-2pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The wholesaler that supplies larger Hungarian shops with English books also sells retail. Their non-fiction collection is relatively broad, especially when it comes to books about art, design or travel. Most major genres are sold at good prices, but they don’t necessarily stock the latest fiction.

Red Bus V. Semmelweis utca 14 (337 7453/www.redbusbudapest.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat 10am-3pm. This skinny little second-hand shop is lined with 1,500 spines, all in English. Decent range of fiction from the more popular authors; kids’ books, travel books and some other non-fiction. As it’s secondhand it’s cheap, with most titles going for around Ft1,000 or less.

Stúdium Idegennyelvű Könyvesbolt V. Váci utca 22 (318 5680). M1 Vörösmarty tér. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-3pm. One of the city’s better collections of English-language books has about 50 translations of Hungarian writers, 250 pop-lit books, 500 current fiction titles, 400 sci-fi titles and 500 nonfiction titles – at reasonable prices.

Treehugger Dan’s Bookstore & Café VI. Lázár utca 16 (269 3843/ www. treehugger.hu). An institution in the used English book business here, environmentalist Dan Swartz sells second-hand books and fair-trade products in several shops. Enjoy coffee or tea while reading, or take it to go. Also an ambitious programme of acoustic music, and occasional literary discussions.

LibrariesErvin Szabó Municipal Library (Fővárosi Szabó Ervin Könyvtár) VIII. Szabó Ervin tér 1 (411 5000/www.fszek. hu/index.nfo?tPath=/english). Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-4pm. The beautiful former Wenckheim Palace near Kálvin tér is the headquarters of Budapest’s public library system. It’s stunning, full of inviting spaces for reading and located in

the middle of town. It also has the largest collection of Englishlanguage books in the city-run library system, which has close to 60 branches and lists 61,995 English-language book titles. This main branch boasts 46,200 of those titles. as well as English-language DVDs, audio books and periodicals. Membership for borrowing books costs less than Ft10,000 per year.

National Educational Library (Országos Pedagógiai Könyvtár) VIII. Könyves Kálmán utca 40(323 5508/ www.opkm.hu). Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-2pm. Registration Ft2,000. The National Educational Library is the centre for information on pedagogy and education history – as well as sociological and psychological books related to teaching. Teachers of English, or other subjects, can find textbooks and other useful materials here. And because they let anyone with a residence permit borrow books, enterprising teachers can bring these materials into their classroom.

National Foreign-Language Library (Országos Idegennyelvű Könyvtár) V. Molnár utca 11 (318 3688). Mon-Tue, Thur-Fri 10am-8pm; Wed noon-8pm. Membership for one year Ft3,000 for books only; or Ft6,300 to borrow books & DVDs. Day ticket Ft600. The city’s main library for foreign books has one of the largest English-language collections outside of the universities and is perhaps the best place to look for contemporary novels. They claim roughly 300,000 pieces of material – including books, magazines, CDs and DVDs – and estimate that 60,000-70,000 of these items are in English. The library updates its collection regularly, so there’s a decent amount of contemporary fiction.

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Chi

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Activity centresBudapest House of Culture Fővárosi Művelődési Ház XI. Fehérvári út 47 (203 3868/www.fmhnet.hu). Tram 47, 49. Admission varies. No credit cards. Theatre shows and a folk-dance club for kids with Muzsikás, playgroups for three- to six-year-olds, and dance, gymnastics and aerobics courses.

Kids’ Park Kölyökpark Mammut II, II. Lövőház utca 1-5 (345 8512). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Mon-Fri 10am- 9pm; Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 9am-8pm. Admission Ft700 for 30mins. No credit cards. Indoor playground with monkey bars, slides, towers and tunnels, for children up to 12. Strategically located next to the toy shop in the Mammut mall.

Marczibányi tér Culture House Marczibányi téri Művelődési Ház II. Marczibányi tér 5A (212 2820/www. marczi.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Admission varies. No credit cards. Craft workshops, a folk-dance club, drawing for four-to seven year olds, a playgroup with music for six months to six years, a magicians’ school for nine-to 15 -year-olds and an excellent playground for younger kids. Special events include puppet

shows, pet fairs and concerts by popular performers.

Millenáris Park II. Fény utca 20-22 (336 4000/www.millenaris.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Admission varies. No credit cards. Craft workshops, puppet shows, children’s theatre and playgroups in a custom-built venue. Attractions include the gadget-rich Palace of Wonders, Children’s shows and Budapest Puppet Theatre.

Zoo Funhouse XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12 (460 9510/www.jatek-mester.hu). M1 Szechényi fürdő. Admission Ft1,200 per child per hour weekdays, Ft1,500 week- ends, half price with zoo entry. Popular playhouse between the zoo and the circus with a slide, shelves full of games, a climbing frame, water feature and a café. It’s also a popular place for birthday parties, for which they bring cuddly wild animals in for the kids to stroke.

PerformancesBudapest Bábszínház VI. Andrássy út 69 (321 5200). M1 Vörösmarty utca. Shows Sept-June daily 10am, 10.30am, 3pm. Box office daily 9am- 6pm. Admission Ft800-Ft1,600. No credit cards. International fairy tales and Hungarian folk stories form the repertoire. Language is usually not a problem and the shows are highly original.

Circus XIV. Állatkerti körút 7 (343 9630/ www.maciva.hu). M1 Széchenyi fürdő. Shows Wed-Fri 5pm; Sat 3pm & 7pm; Sun 10.30am & 3pm. Box office daily 10am- 6pm. Admission Ft2,000-Ft3,100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A permanent building with shows year-round; inside it looks just like

an old-fashioned travelling circus, with clowns, acrobats – even a lion tamer.

Holdvilág Kamaraszínház XIII. József Attila tér 4 (405 8759). M2 Örs Vezér tere, then bus 144 to József utca. Admission Ft1,350-Ft1,700. No credit cards. Children’s plays staged by young actors and directors. Tickets can be reserved by phone from 4pm to 8pm on Wednesdays or bought on the door.

National Ice Theatre XIV. Istvánmezei út 6 (in the Récsei Centre) (273 0052/ www.jegszinhaz.hu). Admission Ft2,490- Ft2,990. Performances Fri, Sat, Sun. See website for programme.

Kolibri Theatre VI. Jókai tér 10 (353 4633). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6. Shows daily 10am & 3pm. Box office Sept-June Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission Ft850- Ft1,400. No credit cards. Small theatre presenting fairy tales.

National Dance Theatre I. Színház utca 1-3 (375 8649). Bus 16. Admission varies. Elegant theatre in the Castle District with frequent dance performances aimed at children, some more impressive than others.

Palace of Arts IX. Komor Marcell utca 1 (555 3001/www.mupa.hu). Tram 1, 2, 24. Admission varies. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. The city’s major cultural complex has an extensive programme for children and families.

MuseumsAgricultural Museum Mezőgazdasági Múzeum XIV. Vajdahunyad Castle in Városliget (363 6099/www.mezogazdasagimuzeum.hu). Tue-Fri 10am-4pm; Sat, Sun 10am-5pm. Admission Ft1,100, concs Ft900. No credit cards. Stuffed animals, traditional living and produced goods from hunting and fishing to pottery and farming, housed in a distinctive wing of the Vajdahunyad Castle.

Ethnographic Museum V. Kossuth Lajos tér 12 (473 2400/www.neprajz.hu). Tue- Sun 10am-5pm. M2 Kossuth Lajos tér. Admission Ft800, concs Ft400. A display of Hungarian folk traditions through the ages and temporary exhibitions.

Fire Brigade Museum X. Martinovics tér 12 (261 3586). Tue-Sat 9am-4pm; Sun 9am-1pm. Admission free. Out of the way and old-fashioned museum, which is redeemed by the chance offered to climb up into a real working fire engine.

Hungarian Geological Museum XIV. Stefánia út 14 (251 0999). M2 Stadionok/ trolley 75 , 77. Thur, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft500; concs Ft250. Rocks and crystals from the dinosaur age.

Palace of Wonders Csodák palotája II.Fény utca 20-22 (350 6131/www.cso- dapalota.hu). M2 Széll Kálmán tér/tram 4, 6. Tue-Fri; 9am- 6pm; Sat, Sun 10am- 7pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft1,000. No credit cards. Popular science museum full of interactive features, including a Soviet-built MIG aeroplane, strange mirrors and light effects.

Planetarium X. Népliget, SW corner (265 0725/www.planetarium.hu). M3 Népliget. 5 shows Tue-Sun 9.30am- 5.30pm. Laser shows daily 7.30pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft990. No credit cards. Temporary exhibits and educational children’s shows. Popular with older kids. English-language shows on request for groups of 30 or more.

Railway Museum Vasúttörténeti Park XIV. Tatai út 95 (238 0558/www.

mavnosztalgia.hu). Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. Admission Ft950, concs Ft300. Interactive programme extra. No credit cards. Clamber on steam trains and ride in the cab of a real locomotive.

Transport Museum Közlekedési Múzeum XIV. Városligeti körút 11 (273 3840). Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft600. No credit cards. On the outer edge of City Park, the transport museum is crammed with cars, bicycles, boats, aeroplanes and trains, most of which you can climb inside.

Outdoor activitiesChildren’s Railway Széchenyi-hegy to Hűvösvölgy Station (www.gyermekvasut. hu). One-way ticket Ft600, children Ft300. Ride a steam train staffed by children around the Buda Hills.

Vadas Park Budakeszi, Szanatórium utca (06 23 451 783). Bus 22/red 22 from Széll Kálmán tér to Szanatórium utca, then follow signs through wood. Mon-Fri 9am- 5pm; Sat, Sun 10am- 6pm. Admission Ft700; children Ft400. Less crowed out-of-town alternative to the zoo where you can see wild boar, deer and foxes.

Zoo Állatkert XIV. Városligeti körút 6 -12 (273 4900/www.zoobudapest.com). M1 Széchenyi fürdő. Winter daily 9am- 4pm. Admission Ft2,10 adults; Ft1,500 children; free under-2s; Ft6,100 family of 4. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Excellent zoo on the edge of Cit y Park near Heroes’ Square features themed pavilions such as the Elephant House and Eiffel’s Palm House.

Parks & playgroundsCity Park Városliget M1 Hősök tere/ Széchenyi fürdő. Admission free. There are slides and wooden castles in the south corner, and a fenced playground with a treehouse, safe slides and monkey bars.

József Nádor tér M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/tram 47, 49. Daily 7am-sunset. Admission free. A great playground with wooden castles, a ship with slides, swings, ride-on toys, a sandpit and a stream with tiny dams for watery experiments.

Károlyi Garden Károlyi kert V. Magyar utca/Henszlmann Imre utca/Ferenczy István utca. M2 Astoria/M3 Kálvin tér/tram 47, 49. Daily 8am-sunset. Admission free. Offers an oasis of calm in the midst of the city, and boasts a fountain, swings and climbing frames, and a large clean sandpit with slide.

Király/Kazinczy utca M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 8am-sunset. Admission free. Little park with swings and mini sandpit in District V II.

Klauzál tér VII. Klauzál tér. M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Daily 8am to sunset. Admission free. Well-maintained inner city green space with a generous line of swings, a popular Tarzan rope, pyramid rounda- bout and daring fireman’s pole.

Óbuda Island Óbudai Sziget HÉV to Filatorigát/bus 142/boat from Vigadó tér. An island full of green areas and long slides north of Árpád Bridge. It ’s ideal for picnickers, kite-flyers and skaters, because there’s so much room.

Children

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Film

Dir Tom Tykwer, Andy Wachowski, Lana Wachowski (2012) Tom Hanks, Susan Sarandon, Hugo Weaving

The thrill in reading David Mitchell’s eras-spanning, genre-hopping novel Cloud Atlas (2004) comes primarily from its stylistic showmanship: six stories set in respective time periods between 1850 and the far-distant future, with each tale authored in a different form—from airport-rack pot-boiler to solemn speculative fi c-tion with its own invented dia-lect. Five of the yarns are interrupted midway through, only to be resolved in Russian-nesting-doll fashion after the sixth provides a rever-berant narrative center. The rather hoary themes of social oppression, the transmigration of souls (repre-sented via a shared com-et-shaped birthmark) and simple acts of kind-ness echo-ing through the ages are sec-ondary to Mitchell’s mesmeriz-

ing plate-spinning act. The author’s way with words—the sense that, beyond all the expert pastiche, you’re reading an ever-evolving history of human language—both demands and keeps your constant attention.

By contrast, the independently fi nanced, passion-project fi lm version from cowriter-directors Andy and Lana Wachowski (The Matrix) and Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run) does little that engages your intellect or emo-tions. The book’s tales are translated faithfully, story beat by story beat: The

19th-century seafaring saga, “The Pacifi c Journal of Adam Ewing,” with Jim Sturgess as a sickly diarist; 1930s-set mel-odrama ‘Letters from Zedelghem,’ featuring Ben Whishaw as a closeted com-poser; the ’70s paranoia-

thriller-aping ‘Half-Lives: The First Luisa Rey Mystery,’ with

Halle Berry as a nosy reporter; the present-day comic picaresque ‘The Ghastly Ordeal of Timothy Cavendish,’ with Jim Broadbent as

a publisher on the run; the 22nd-century dystopian sci-fi ‘An Orison of Sonmi-451,’ with Doona Bae as a rev-olutionary Korean replicant; and the

postapocalyptic aboriginal adventure

‘Sloosha’s

Crossin’ an’ Ev’rythin’ After’ with Tom Hanks as a cowardly goatherd.

Yet the language of cinema has its own demands, and the solutions the Cloud Atlas–obsessed trio came up with in translating Mitchell’s expan-sive tome to the screen are thuddingly literal. The stories are interwoven into a ceaselessly crosscut tapestry that, rather than provide a sense of stakes-raising momentum, makes it feel as if we’re watching the longest, most laborious climax ever fi lmed. (A Tron-style motorcycle chase in the future is mashed up with nursing-home escape mischief in the present, then the whole thing collides with a soaring symphony-in-progress in the past, etc.) Plus, the decision to cast the starry company in multiple roles—the lead in one tale is an extra in another, and so on—never resonates in the intended fashion, since the per-formers are, with rare exceptions, bur-ied under distracting pounds of make-up and prosthetics.

It would take a Peter Sellers or a Meryl Streep to fi nd the

connective tissue under

all the features- and chromosome-altering latex; it really should be a hell of a lot more fun watching Hugo Weaving (a villain of some sort in each tale) camp it up as a demonia-cal female nurse who lords over Broadbent’s harried book editor in ‘Cavendish.’ Instead, the Wachowskis and Tykwer put all their chips on poor, befuddled Hanks as the central soul around whom all the others revolve. His journey from a rot-ten-toothed poisoner in ‘Pacifi c Journal’ to a redemption-seeking tribesman in ‘Sloosha’s’ is meant to be the fi lm’s emotional backbone. Yet Hanks never gets beyond dress-up gimmickry, as he did with a com-paratively broad role in the Coen brothers’ sorely underrated Ladykillers remake. At best he’s bland, at worst embarrassing; the actor’s thankfully brief appearance as a hotheaded, critic-murdering author in the ‘Cavendish’ section is the hide-your-head-in-shame nadir. The other actors are similarly ham-strung by all the pancake and pow-der; only Whishaw genuinely moves as the suicidal protagonist of ‘Zedelghem.’ But the spot-the-per-former shenanigans at least provide a constant source of entertainment:

Look! There’s Sturgess in yellowface! And Berry as a white Jewish trophy wife! Isn’t that Hugh Grant as a machete-wielding cannibal? It’s the part he was born to play, baby!

All mockery aside, what the Wachowskis and Tykwer are attempt-ing is crystal clear—a kind of epic, equal-opportunity parable about the transgression-cum-transcendence of rigid societal norms. (Expect plenty of think pieces paralleling the fi lm’s gen-der- and race-bending theatrics with Lana’s own transsexuality.) Yet you never sense, as you do with Mitchell’s prose, that the directors have a vital grasp of the varied genres, nor of the profound themes that can spring from even the basest forms of storytelling. Instead, these disparate tales have been listlessly smashed together in the hopes that something substantial will emerge. For all of Cloud Atlas’s pseudorevolutionary blather about upending the ‘natural order,’ the exe-cution couldn’t be squarer. Keith Uhlich

Budapest premiere: November 22

FilmFilm

Cloud Atlas

50 Time Out Budapest November 201250 Time Out Budapest November 201250 Time Out Budapest

eras-spanning, genre-hopping novel Cloud Atlas (2004) comes primarily from its stylistic showmanship: six stories set in respective time periods between 1850 and the far-distant future, with each tale authored in a different form—from airport-rack pot-boiler to solemn speculative fi c-tion with its own invented dia-lect. Five of the yarns are interrupted midway through, only to be resolved in Russian-nesting-doll fashion after the sixth provides a rever-berant narrative center. The rather hoary themes of social oppression, the transmigration of souls (repre-sented via a shared com-et-shaped birthmark) and simple acts of kind-ness echo-ing through the ages are sec-ondary to Mitchell’s mesmeriz-

from cowriter-directors Andy and Lana Wachowski (The Matrix) and Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run) does little that engages your intellect or emo-tions. The book’s tales are translated faithfully, story beat by story beat: The

19th-century seafaring saga, “The Pacifi c Journal of Adam Ewing,” with Jim Sturgess as a sickly diarist; 1930s-set mel-odrama ‘Letters from Zedelghem,’ featuring Ben Whishaw as a closeted com-poser; the ’70s paranoia-

thriller-aping ‘Half-Lives: The First Luisa Rey Mystery,’ with

Halle Berry as a nosy reporter; the present-day comic picaresque ‘The Ghastly Ordeal of Timothy Cavendish,’ with Jim Broadbent as

a publisher on the run; the 22nd-century dystopian sci-fi ‘An Orison of Sonmi-451,’ with Doona Bae as a rev-olutionary Korean replicant; and the

postapocalyptic aboriginal adventure

‘Sloosha’s

Crossin’ an’ Ev’rythin’ After’ with Tom Hanks as a cowardly goatherd.

Yet the language of cinema has its own demands, and the solutions the Cloud Atlas–obsessed trio came up with in translating Mitchell’s expan-sive tome to the screen are thuddingly literal. The stories are interwoven into a ceaselessly crosscut tapestry that, rather than provide a sense of stakes-raising momentum, makes it feel as if we’re watching the longest, most laborious climax ever fi lmed. (A Tron-style motorcycle chase in the future is mashed up with nursing-home escape mischief in the present, then the whole thing collides with a soaring symphony-in-progress in the past, etc.) Plus, the decision to cast the starry company in multiple roles—the lead in one tale is an extra in another, and so on—never resonates in the intended fashion, since the per-formers are, with rare exceptions, bur-ied under distracting pounds of make-up and prosthetics.

It would take a Peter Sellers or a Meryl Streep to fi nd the

connective tissue under

November 2012

to_bp_nov_2012_2.indd 50 11/12/12 2:46 PM


Film

Dir Matteo Garrone (2012) Claudia Gerini, Ciro Petrone, Arturo Smith

Matteo Garrone’s ‘Gomorrah’ was undoubtedly a tough act to follow. Few outside of Italy knew his earlier work (though his 2002 foray into the underworld with ‘The Embalmer’ did play the festival circuit a little). But Garrone’s sharp if sprawling account of organised crime at work in the Neapolitan suburbs not only won the Grand Jury Prize at Cannes but enjoyed widespread box offi ce suc-cess. So ‘Reality’ had a lot to live up to.

And in many respects, it certainly succeeds in doing so. Its striking opening sequence – shot from a heli-copter as a horse-drawn golden coach makes its way through the traffi c of the suburbs beneath Vesuvius, fi nally

arriving at a wedding of ostentatious opulence and vulgarity – sets every-thing in place: the preference for long, sinuous sequence shots, the pains-taking attention to mood and detail, an impressive, almost epic sense of scale. But it’s that last quality, carried over from ‘Gomorrah ’, which is at once the fi lm’s strength and its short-coming. As the narrative focuses increasingly on Luciano, a Naples fi sh-monger supplementing his family’s income with scams involving kitchen goods, who’s persuaded to seek fame and fortune by auditioning for a series of ‘Big Brother’, so the fi lm turns from amusing, faintly absurd satire towards ever ‘bigger’ themes. These are con-cerned with the destructive role played in modern life by our obsession with celebrity and appearance. In short, the movie becomes a little too long and heavy-handed for the more intimate and immediately plausible

aspects of its subject.That said, while the fi lm is seldom

as funny as it probably wants to be, and drags here and there towards the end, it nevertheless has more than its fair share of strong scenes suggestive of a latter-day ‘La Dolce Vita’. (Here it’s not a statue of Christ that hovers over the city of Rome but a brash TV celeb, fl ying over a Neapolitan rave packed with tacky revellers.) As Luciano grad-ually loses his grasp on reality, chang-ing his ways in the hope that charita-ble acts might gain him access to TV heaven, Garrone just about keeps things under control long enough to make the surprisingly quiet coda emo-tionally satisfying and resonant. En route, by the way, he’s helped no end by a splendid cast, some of whom will be familiar from ‘Gomorrah ’. Geoff Andrew


RealityReality

Dir Rodrigo Cortés (2012) Robert De Niro, Cillian Murphy, Sigourney Weaver

A dollop of ‘The X Files’, a dash of ‘The Sixth Sense’ and a whole lot of blah come together in Rodrigo Cortés’s supernatural suspense thriller. Sigourney Weaver and Cillian Murphy play a pair of academic debunkers of paranormal hokum with a sublimated mother-son thing going on (perish the thought that an older woman and younger man might be romantically involved!). Their routine is upended by the public comeback of a sinister Uri Geller-style medium (Robert De Niro): cue electrical fi res, creepy homeless people and lots of dead birds.

‘Red Lights’ musters a few moments of unease but never really

kicks into gear: it’s as lame as a thrill ride and inane as a wannabe critique of rational enquiry. Cortés (‘Buried’) writes, directs, produces and edits without showing much fl air for any of them. His dreadful script in particular leaves the weirdly good cast stranded:

Murphy is shouty, De Niro somnolent, Weaver valiant; Toby Jones, Joely Richardson and Elizabeth Olsen are similarly wasted. The clue’s in the title: don’t go. Ben Walters


Red Lights

Dir Curtis Hanson (2012) Jonny Weston, Gerard Butler, Elisabeth Shue

You see the major movie this surfi ng drama could have been, cresting on the horizon like a 20-foot wall. It’s a tale about a death wish, as two based-on-real-life Santa Cruz natives, both of them dealt lousy hands, strain for self-negation in the mashing crucible of nature. Teenage Jay Moriarity (Jonny Weston) shucks off parental abandonment to wan-der down by the churning coast. Adult surfer Rick “Frosty” Hesson (Gerard Butler) is one of those boy-men who never got the hang of fatherhood. Despite a soulful, doting wife, he doesn’t appreciate what he has at home. Jay and Frosty come together, ease a mutual ache and—just when a lesser movie would heal them—complete some kind of preor-dained path, the skies darkening with the unfairness of it all.

Chasing Mavericks is, unfortu-nately, that lesser movie, a disap-pointment given the past boldness of codirectors Curtis Hanson (L.A. Confi dential) and Michael Apted (the documentary series Up, tinged with life’s regrets). Too much time is spent on the conventional, rousing gestures of a Karate Kid–like train-ing period. Like a blond totem, a gor-geous California girl waits on the sidelines for Jay to rise to the roman-tic occasion; meanwhile, Frosty’s kids get tucked in more often and everybody grows up a little. (Even a caricaturish bully fades at all the spiritual rebirthing at hand.) The fi lm wants to be inspiring, when it might have been cosmic—a far greater ambition. Tossing boats and dream-ers, the huge waves perform beauti-fully. Joshua Rothkopf


Chasing Mavericks

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Film

Dir Ben Affleck (2012) Bryan Cran-ston, Ben Affleck, John Goodman, Vic-tor Garber, Chris Messina

Heroic CIA movies? You’re not going to find scads of them—they’re harder to locate than yellowcake. Maybe it says something that a rare example, 2002’s The Sum of All Fears (i.e., the film that nuked Baltimore), starred lantern-mugged Ben Affleck, then a rising leading man. Ten years later, Affleck has found real respect as a director of tough criminal dramas like Gone Baby Gone and The Town. Here, he commits his impressive momen-tum to a slight, true-life tale of covert intelligence with a happy ending. Let’s hope he’s not moving backward: Argo plays closer to comedy than any movie about the Iranian hostage crisis prob-ably should. The scenario already

feels half-remembered from another film, as operative Tony Mendez (Affleck, playing a Latino) hatches a scheme to spring six trapped Americans, hidden at the home of the Canadian ambassador, by pretending to be a big-shot Hollywood producer scouting a Star Wars–like sci-fi flick in the desert.

Quickly, we’re in Hollywood, where Planet of the Apes makeup legend John Chambers (John Goodman) and gruff negotiator Lester Siegel (Alan Arkin) are happy to wag the dog along with Mendez, creating believable buzz for a blockbuster that will never exist. Out in the audience, you never shake the feeling—partly intentional—that Argo itself is swaddled in a kind of phony ersatzness. These ’70s beards and polyesters look straight out of a high-school play, while the snatch-and-grab op in the Middle East is mounted with as much moneyed sheen as Spielberg’s Munich. No per-formances stand out, which is a shame given Affleck’s track record with actors. Ultimately, it comes down to a chase to the airport, with a scary Revolutionary Guardsman at the gate. Affleck is free to stretch in any direc-tion he wants as a filmmaker, but if he’d made this one first, his new career wouldn’t seem so redemptive.Joshua Rothkopf


Dir Lisa Aschan (2011) Mathilda Paradeiser, Isabella Lindquist, Linda Molin, Sergej Merkusjev

Life might not always be easy for teen girls in arthouse films, but it can get a bit samey: shyly discovering their sex-uality when no one in the world under-stands them. But with her mysterious, gripping debut, Swedish director Lisa Aschan deliciously subverts the com-ing-of-age formula.

When we meet 14-year-old Emma (Mathilda Paradeiser), she looks every inch the sensitive heroine, living with her dad and seven-year-old sister Sara (Isabella Lindquist). When

Emma joins an equestrian gym team (lots of handstands on horses) she meets Cassandra (Linda Molin), whose predatory, spiteful grin spells trouble for Emma. Or does it? Because Emma is beginning to look not so much shy as icily controlled.

A claustrophobic friendship devel-ops. At an age when most girls are swapping horses for boys, their heart-in-mouth daredevil tricks are a meta-phor for this dangerous dynamic. A lovely counterpoint is Emma’s sister – a gorgeous pudding-bowl-haired thing with growing pains of her own: she’s in love with her cousin, poor mite. Cath Clarke


She Monkeys

Dir Tanya Wexler (2012) Hugh Dancy, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Jonathan Pryce, Felicity Jones, Rupert Everett, Ashley Jensen

Whirring along like clockwork with less-than-orgasmic results, this Victorian-era comedy about the inven-tion of the vibrator will work for the self-satisfied only—i.e., those who can’t score a hot date with a Merchant Ivory film. What’s a handsome young doctor (nondescript Hugh Dancy) to do when his efforts at modern medi-cine are rebuffed? A London job hunt results in a promising junior position with fastidious Dr. Dalrymple

(Jonathan Pryce), whose waiting room is crammed with smiling middle-aged women. In the examination chamber (with good-taste curtains in place), we observe the vigorous treatments; mild shivers of laughter reveal audience members who enjoy having their senses of propriety stroked.

There’s nothing strictly wrong with any of this, except for the fact that even a buttoned-down period piece like Topsy-Turvy feels sexier. Curdling its one-note joke, the script pushes forward disparate elements for any-one who might actually be embar-rassed: Maggie Gyllenhaal clomps around as a protofeminist libertine, a love interest who’s seen helping small children and abusing table manners in equal measure. Meanwhile, electrical advances turn the private sessions into mock-Frank-ensteinian experiments, complete with safety goggles; can’t the same remove be said of director Tanya Wexler’s timid handling of the sub-ject? Never do you sense that any hysteria-diagnosed females are headed for the lobotomy room. This is the kind of myth that basically ends with a judge declaring the end of sex-ism. Paging Dr. Cronenberg… Joshua Rothkopf


Hysteria

Dir Nikolaj Arcel (2012) Mikkel Boe Folsgaard, Mads Mikkelsen, David Dencik

It was produced by Lars von Trier’s film company and its writer/director team adapted the original ‘Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’. But don’t go expecting a hornet’s nest of Scandinavian out-rage from this chronicle of the political sex scandal that rocked 1770s Denmark. ‘A Royal Affair’ is the defini-tion of classy period drama: well act-ed, intelligently scripted with a small-ish dose of bodice-ripping. It’s almost impeccable, in fact, if ever-so-slightly underpowered.

It begins, like Sofia Coppola’s ‘Marie Antoinette’, with a 15-year-old prin-cess, Caroline (Alicia Vikander), being traded in marriage to a king. Caroline is cultured and educated, while her betrothed is mad King Christian VII of Denmark, a petulant pea-brained nin-

ny. Caroline resigns herself to her fate until doctor – and radical thinker – Johann Friedrich Struensee (Mads Mikkelsen) is appointed as the king’s personal physician. The pair embark on an illicit affair and, with the king as their puppet, plot to take Denmark from the Dark Ages to enlightened uto-pia, one edict at a time.

There’s plenty of authentic-looking historical detail here: a bored doctor oversees the women’s work of deliver-ing Caroline’s baby (‘A true queen delivers in a silence with dignity’). Politically too, we watch the corruption of Struensee’s ideals: when his affair with the queen becomes the butt of satirists’ jokes he rescinds his earlier ban on censorship. All of which is gen-uinely engrossing, if a little stiff, and it’s only in the drama of the last five minutes that actor-of-the-moment Mikkelsen shows us what he’s really made of. Cath Clarke


Argo

A Royal Affair

TM és © 2012 Apple Inc. Minden jog fenntartva.

iSTYLE A36 • 1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 36.

iSTYLE Westend • 1062 Budapest, Váci út 1-3. Földszint, Mátyás király pihenőhely

iSTYLE Debrecen • 4029 Debrecen, Csapó utca 30. Fórum Debrecen

www.istyle.hu • facebook.com/istyle.hu • twitter.com/istylehu • foursquare/istylehu

With the breakthrough Retina display, 5-megapixel iSight camera and ultra-fast wireless, the new iPad is more immersive than ever before.

Starting at 149 900 Ft

The new iPad

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to_bp_nov_2012_2.indd 52 11/12/12 2:46 PM

TM és © 2012 Apple Inc. Minden jog fenntartva.

iSTYLE A36 • 1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 36.

iSTYLE Westend • 1062 Budapest, Váci út 1-3. Földszint, Mátyás király pihenőhely

iSTYLE Debrecen • 4029 Debrecen, Csapó utca 30. Fórum Debrecen

www.istyle.hu • facebook.com/istyle.hu • twitter.com/istylehu • foursquare/istylehu

With the breakthrough Retina display, 5-megapixel iSight camera and ultra-fast wireless, the new iPad is more immersive than ever before.

Starting at 149 900 Ft

The new iPad

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

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to_bp_nov_2012_2.indd 53 11/12/12 2:46 PM


Gay

& L

esbi

an

Bars & clubs The drinks card: Several bars and clubs operate a drinks card system that combines cover charge and bar consumption. Upon entry, you’ll receive a slip of paper to record your purchases on. If you don’t buy anything, you’ll pay or run up a cover charge, or minimum consumption charge, the amount of which is normally communicated before your enter. If your bar consump - tion is more than the cover charge, it offsets your bar consumption bill; to put it another way, you won’t pay a cover charge. You’ll settle your bill upon departure. Do hold onto your drinks card for dear life or you’ll be asked to pay a hefty penalty. Also, we have received complaints of overcharging: do keep tab of your tab.

Action Bar V. Magyar utca 42 (266 9148/www.action.gay.hu). M3 Kálvin tér/night bus 909, 914, 950, 950A, 979, 979A. Daily 9pm-5am. Ft1,000 minimum mandatory bar consumption. Popular cellar bar, with the busiest darkroom in town and fancy toilets with see-through walls. Look out for a non-descript letter ‘A’ on the decrepit door. Live shows and striptease on Fridays at 12.30am, oral academy on Saturdays at 12.45am, and bear club.

Alterego Bar & Lounge VI. Dessewf fy utca 33 (06 70 345 4302 mobile/www. alteregoclub.hu). M1 Opera/night bus 914, 931, 950, 979. Fri-Sat 10pm- 6am. Ft1,000 before midnight, Ft1,500 after. A stylish beacon in the dark night shining over a well-dressed crowd, Alterego attracts gay men and their friends.

Alterego Café VI. Erzsébet tér 1 (06 70 345 4302 mobile/www.alteregoclub. hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér/bus 105 József Attila utca. Mon, Wed, Sat noon- 4am; Tue, Thur, Fri noon-1am. Admission free except on Mondays for karaoke from 10pm, admission Ft500. This trendy lounge club has branched out into District V and the café genre, fusing the latter’s daytime of ferings with late -night diversions like a transvestite show on Wednesdays, and occasional lesbian parties on Saturdays.

Amstel River Café V. Párizsi utca 6 (266 4334/www.amstelrivercafe.com). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 5, 7, 112, 173, 178. Daily noon-midnight. A small and tastefully appointed Dutch café attracts a comfortable mix of tourists, hetero regulars and gays in an unbeatable central location, with a terrace.

Bar Jel (former Cafe &) VI. Dessewffy utca 30 ([email protected]/www.cafeand.hu). Mon-Thur 8am-midnight; Fri, Sat 8am- 4am. Cosy café brings a quieter colour to the Dessewffy utca gay club scene.

Basszus Kulcs Club VIII. Kálvária tér 2 (06 70 539 5488 mobile/http:// basszuskulcs.atw.hu). Bus 9, 109. From 10pm. Admission free Tue & Thur; Ft1,000 Fri, Sat. Desiré Dubounet’s club starring drag queens Micus, Plexi, Frutti and Bonnie. Karaoke on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and disco and trannies on Fridays and Saturdays.

Capella V. Belgrád rakpart 23 (06 70 597 7755 mobile/www.capellacafe.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/tram 2/night bus 901, 908, 956, 973. Wed, Thur 10pm-4am; Fri, Sat 10pm- 6am. Ft1,000 on Fri, Sat; one mandatory drink Wed, Thur. The most centrally located gay club has brought a mixed dance crowd and d ivas since 1995.

Club Underground VI. Teréz körút 30 (06 20 261 8999 mobile/www.clubun- derground.hu). M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6/ night bus 906. Fri 10pm-5am; Sat 10pm- 6am. Admission free; minimum mandatory bar consumption Ft 1,000 Fri, Ft 2,000 Sat. Noxyma Johnson turned this cavernous basement space next to Művész cinema into a diva drag digs.

coXx Men’s Club VII. Dohány utca 38 (344 4884/www.coxx.hu) M2 Astoria/ tram 47, 49/bus 7/night bus 908, 921, 973. Mon-Thur, Sun 9pm-4am; Fri-Sat 9pm-5am. Admission free, minimum

mandatory bar consumption Ft1,000. Cleverly misleading upstairs gallery/ netcafé. Downstairs a separate cruising labyrinth, with cages, slings, glory holes, wet rooms and three full bars. Recently enlarged and equipped afresh.

Erotika Centrum VII. Dob utca 11 (351 1000/06 30 444 7900 mobile/www. gaybears.hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/ bus 7/night bus 908, 921, 973. Shop Mon- Sat 10am-10pm. Club Mon-Sat 2-10pm. Shop & club Sun noon- 6pm. Admission Ft800 annual one-off membership fee; plus Ft500 Mon, Tue, Sun; Ft1,000 Wed- Sat. Sex shop, cinema and club, with internet access, cabins and glory holes.

Funny Carrot V. Szép utca 1B (06 20 942 9419 mobile/www.funnycarrot.hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49/bus 7, 8, 78, 112/ night bus 908, 921, 973. Daily 7pm- 6am. Recently opened in place of the old Darling, this quaint chit-chat bar hangout offers laid-back atmosphere, perfect for chilling and chatting.

Habroló Bisztró V. Szép utca 1B (06 20 211 6701 mobile/www.habrolo.hu). M3 Ferenciek tere/bus 7, 78, 112/night bus 907, 908, 956, 973. Mon-Fri 9am-dawn; Sat, Sun 10am-dawn. Comfortable bar features a tiny lounge space upstairs and a small stage for drag shows.

Smile VII.Nagy Diófa utca 17 (06 30 403 1372 mobile). M2 Astoria/trolley 74 Dohány utca. Mon-Sat 9pm- 4am. Attitude -free venue for men, known for its downstairs discos.

Why Not Café & Bar V.Belgrád rakpart 3-4 (06 20 498 2944 mobile). Tram 2 Március 15-e tér. Mon-Thur 10am-2am; Fri-Sat 10am-4am. A cosy bar on the Pest embankment near the nightlife hub Capella.

!szkafander At various locations (szkafander.blog.hu). Admission Ft1,500. !szkafander, a gay part y project of four inspired part y hardies, promises another kind of experience altogether – hence the name’s allusion to space travel. It ’s a decidedly hetero -friendly gig for starters, as a new Thursday residency underlines.

Lesbian Chicken Exit At times (www.mys various locations & pace.com/chickenexit). Alternative tunes and fun parties for lesbian and bisexual women, indie, trash, post-punk, etc.

Labrisz VIII. Szentkirályi utca 22-24 (www.labrisz.hu). No admission charge. Entry bell says ‘Tégy az emberért’. This lesbian non-profit organisation oversees communit y activities such as L abrisz Relax.

Ösztrosokk Parties Usually at the Diesel Club (former E-Klub), X. Nép- ligeti út 2 (www.osztrosokk.hu). M3 Népliget. 2nd Sat of the month 10pm- 4am. Ft1,200. Women-only groups hold court for the lesbian communit y with resident DJs and theme parties.

Vis Major Café XIII. Szent István körút 2 (239 4451/www.vismajor.hu) Tram 2, 4, 6/night bus 906, 923, 931. Mon- Wed noon- midnight; Thur-Fri noon- 2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm- midnight. Not exclusively a lesbian establish- ment, this multi-tasking space does have some nights especially for the girls, including exhibitions, theatre performances, talk shows and a film club on the first Saturday of ever y month.

Pikk Dáma is a games night especially for the girls. Look for the entrance on Pozsonyi út.

Restaurants Café Eklektika Restolounge VI. Nagymező utca 30 (266 122 6). M1 Opera/M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6 Oktogon. Daily 11am- midnight. Credit MC, V. Superhen Ágota has made this restaurant, in a prime location, a favourite of gays, lesbians, their friends, the theatre -going crowd and anyone in search of good atmosphere and good value.

Club 93 Pizzeria VIII. Vas utca 2 (06 30 630 7093 mobile). Bus 7, 78 Vas utca. Daily 11am- midnight. This pizzeria serves Italian favourites and desserts.

Saunas Magnum Szauna VIII. Csepreghy utca 2 (267 2532/www.magnumszauna. hu). M3 Corvin-negyed or Kálvin tér/ night bus 914, 950, 950A. Mon-Thur 1pm- midnight; Fri 1pm- 4am; Sat 1pm to Mon 1am. Admission Ft2,290 for under-30s, Ft2,990 for those above; annual membership Ft2,500, admission for members under 30 Ft1,490, those above 30 Ft1,750. T he Magnum is a labyrinth with a sauna, steam room, showers for two, lounge area, gym and a dark room.

Szauna 69 IX. Angyal utca 2 (210 1751/ www.gaysauna.hu). Tram 4, 6 Mester utca/tram 2 or bus 15 Boráros tér. Mon-Thur 1pm-1am; Fri 1am-2am; Sat 1pm- 6am; Sun 1pm-1am. Admission Ft1,590 -Ft1,790. Finnish sauna, jacuzzi and private rooms attract a younger crowd to an aqua-inspired blue mosaic- clad lounge. Internet and bar also.

Sport & Dance Atlasz Sport and Friss Gondolat (www.atlaszsport.hu/www.badmintong.uw.hu/www.vandormasok.hu) is Hungary’s gay sports association, offering sports for the boys and girls, and their gay-friendly friends and family. The hiking group Vándor Mások and the dance group Gemini also operate under Atlasz’s auspices. For all other schedules, consult the websites.

Charme Dance School VIII. Szentkirályi utca 22-24, ground floor, doorbell ‘Tégy az emberért!’ More info: [email protected]. Cha- cha, rumba, jive, salsa, waltz, tango, quick step: Charme advanced ballroom dance course, every Wednesday, from 6pm, and new beginners’ course on Mondays, from 6pm.

Csajka ([email protected]/www.csajka. hu). Sports for the girls, lesbian and straight, Csajka organises bi-monthly tournaments in ping-pong, arm wrestling, table football, poker, darts, hiking, for an fee of Ft500 -Ft1,000, which buys prizes for the winners. Men may not apply but can attend.

LGBT exercise, spine physio and yoga Get in shape in a gay atmosphere: on Mondays, you get to work your spine and waist, between 7pm and 8pm; on Wednesdays, it ’s general fitness for endurance and fat burning. For details: [email protected].

Show Dance Atlasz LGBTQ sports association has a show dance group to cultivate talent in pop, hip -hop, break and jazz dance, and acrobatics. Contact: [email protected].

What’s always on...

Gay & Lesbian

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to_bp_nov_2012_2.indd 55 11/12/12 2:46 PM


Mus

ic

Music

Not enough people know who Mark Lanegan is. Yet in this reviewer’s opin-ion his musical career makes him a liv-ing icon of contemporary rock. At the dawn of the grunge era, he became famous with the band Screaming Trees. After that, he nearly recorded an album with Kurt Cobain and Krist Novoselic, worked together with the ayatollah of stoner rock Josh Homme, and his band Queens of the Stone Age, created three beautiful albums with Isobel Campbell, and also worked together with just about every single guitarist of note from the last few decades. And yet he lacks the pomp-ous, arrogant attitude that might go along with that package.

From his tough background includ-ing an early prison spell for drug offenc-es, if anyone had told the boyhood Lanegan that at the age of twenty that he would have become a major under-ground music star, he’d most probably have died laughing. He befriended the Conner brothers while working in their parents’ store, and they decided to form a band. After all, they were practi-cally the only people he knew who liked the same kind of music as he did. So in 1985, the history of Screaming Trees began, and the band soon became an important part of the Seattle grunge scene. After a couple of genuinely great albums, real commercial suc-cess still eluded the band, in spite of or even perhaps because of their original-ity. Nonetheless, the band kept work-ing until 2000, when they surprisingly disbanded.

By then Lanegan had already writ-ten four complete solo albums, whose guest musicians would include all the important names of the era: Kurt Cobain, Jack Endino, Layne Stayley, Dave Catching, Mike Johnson and J Mascis of Dinosaur Jr, members of

Screaming Trees and numerous oth-ers. By the time he fi nished his fi fth solo album, featuring Duff McCagan (Guns’n’Roses) and Ben Shepherd (Soundgarden), he had already prom-ised Josh Homme that he would sing on a few songs on Queens of the Stone Age’s Rated R. This contribution ended in Lanegan joining forces with the single most important stoner band of the decade, the one that made stoner rock and desert rock the mainstream phenomena it is today.

Lanegan, a memorable mixture of Nick Cave and Tom Waits, even came up with his own version of the Nick Cave & Kylie Minogue duet. This pair-ing lasted for three albums however, and his partner was Isobel Campbell from the pop band Belle & Sebastian. The two worked together a thousand miles apart, but still with an intense creative chemistry. So far this has resulted in three brilliant records. Since 2003, Lanegan has worked together with former Afghan Wings-singer Greg Dull, appeared in the works of electronic acts such as UNKLE and Soulsavers, and made countless other guest appearances.

He currently works in a band simply called The Mark Lanegan Band, and his brand new release, Blues Funeral puts in the spotlight again. This clever medley of electronic sounds and heavy, dark blues serves as the core repertoire for his current tour, which includes a stop on the famed A38. He is accompanied by the Belgian alter-native-stoner band Creature with the Atom Brain, and the singer-songwriter Duke Garwood, who, just like Lanegan, tends toward darker, more obscure forms of blues and rock’n’roll.

A38 (Petőfi Bridge, Buda Side). November 22, 7.30pm. Tickets: Ft4,000/4,500.

Mark Lanegan Band

Urban civil activism gained a whole new level in Toronto, Canada, due to the efforts made by a collective called Fedora Upside Down. This gathering of artists and musicians works at de-ghettoizing the city, reclaiming and reopening bars or concert venues, organizing festivals, and managing a handful of bands and musical proj-ects, all of which are somehow con-nected to rapid and intense types of world or traditional folk music. Part Balkan, part fl amenco, part klezmer - FUD serves as an umbrella for artists coming from incredibly various nation-al and religious backgrounds. One band among those is the Lemon Bucket Orkestra.

This 14-piece started with a simple conversation in a Vietnamese restau-rant in Toronto between two Canadians, one with a Polish, the oth-

er with a German origin. Although being a gypsy punk sounds like a cli-ché now after the worldwide success of Gogol Bordello, the Lemon Bucket Orkestra seems promising with their approach to the genre, using mainly classical instruments and performing as a street band. They could be thrown anywhere, as some special task force with their instruments as weaponry, and create the same ultimate balkan-gipsy-punk-klezmer-jazz party, wheth-er it’s a crowded seashore, an offi ce building lobby or a highway intersec-tion. Or even on a delayed airplane before takeoff, which they actually did, just check their videos on the internet. Or better yet, check them live in your vicinity.

Akvárium Klub (V. Erzsébet tér). Novem-ber 22, 9pm.

Lemon Bucket Orkestra

Nouvelle Vague

Bands operating entirely as a cover band can more often than not be an utter bore. Why would you be satisfi ed with a substitute when you may have the opportunity to listen to the origi-nal, either live, or - if the band or the artist is no longer active for any partic-ular reason - on recorded material? But wouldn’t you agree rearranging certain songs so they sound like a dif-ferent genre is more than a cover ver-sion? How ‘bout new wave meeting chanson and bossa nova?

That is the thing a quirky French band specialises in. Nouvelle Vague, as their name suggests, is the brand new wave of new wave, turning classic songs by New Order, Echo & The Bunnymen, Blondie or Joy Division into coffeehouse and elevator lounge music. Some may consider this also an utter bore, others yet may sayl the idea is incredibly smart. One thing is for sure however - Nouvelle Vague’s reworks appeared in numerous mov-

ies and TV shows as background music, suggesting that this approach is acceptable for the masses. And be honest with yourself: wouldn’t you be intrigued to hear Blue Monday, that rigid, thumping anthem of New Order turned into something that could be easily heard in a cocktail bar of a fi ve-star hotel? There is a certain degree of irony to it, to say the least.

As is in their approach - Nouvelle Vague covered all songs with the help of various singers, each without even knowing the originals, so their inter-pretation could be as genuine as it gets. Ignorance has served as a source of originality.

Covers or not, these songs can be both soothing and stimulating listen-ing, so don’t miss your opportunity to watch them perform on the A38 this month.

A38 (Petőfi Bridge, Buda Side). Novem-ber 23, 8pm. Tickets: Ft6,000-Ft6,500.

Music

to_bp_nov_2012_2.indd 56 11/12/12 2:46 PM


MusicThere’s a fanatically devoted cult fol-

lowing for the LA-based ska- and punk-band Fishbone - if you’re a fan of the genre, you know and love them, and think anyone who doesn’t is probably a total ignoramus. Active since ‘79, this band showed how traditional Jamaican ska could be combined with all that LA at the start of the ‘80s had to offer musically. Infl uences on Fishbone’s sound include alternative metal, hard-core punk and punk rock. Their adapt-ability helps explain how infl uential the band were during the ‘80s and ‘90s.

Fishbone was mainly a black band, and, according to lead singer Angelo Moore, this was one reason they have never found a wider audience. But their sometimes controversial lyrics might also have something to do with it also. Fishbone always used music as a tool for delivering their opinions about the state of the world. A palpa-bly sarcastic sense of humour can be found running through their songs, which often shift rapidly from ska to funky, groovy vibes then to wailing gui-tar licks and then back to ska again.

Still, this last decade has not been musically their best or commercially most successful. Constant line-up changes, fewer records, and a smaller following have all taken a toll. Fishbone was and still is an energy bomb on stage however; but with only their cult following and smaller new audiences: who knows what may hap-pen to the band? Nonetheless, Angelo and his ska-funk-hardcore circus nev-er slack on stage. Those who have seen them live know - Fishbone per-

forms with constant high energy, and focuses more on their audience than most bands. Members of the group often jump right into the middle of the crowd, and continue playing their songs. So, expect mayhem and intense skanking two hours long at their forthcoming 25th anniversary gig in the Akvárium Klub.

Akvárium Klub (V. Erzsébet tér). November 18, 9pm. Tickets: Ft1,700/Ft2,000.

Our city will soon host a show by one of the most important rock-phenom-ena of the last decade and maybe this one too, it’s still too early to tell. Muse started out mainly as a pas-time for a group of high school friends, only to grow up and become a signifi cant force in rock music. Their shifts through various styles and infl uences, from one album release to the other has been abso-lutely remarkable. Another thing which is clear is that despite the heaviness and complexity of their music, Muse have gained an enor-mous global following.

Three kids playing in three sepa-rate bands, going to the same school in a small town in Devon, UK at the start of the nineties - that’s how it all started. Quite typical, you might say, but their way of gaining attention

was with some outrageous on-stage theatrics. Their initial band, called Rocket Baby Dolls took part in a local band competition, and smashed their equipment during the performance - which they also won it’s important to note. Soon, they changed the name of the band, quit their jobs or left university, put every-thing behind them, and started out as the band we know today - Muse, supporting various acts in and around London.

Showbiz, their fi rst LP came out in ‘99, reaching a handful of people who immediately became devoted fans. They already knew what the vast majority would realise a decade afterwards, namely that Muse was something different. Showbiz com-bined alternative and progressive rock and heavy metal, with the dis-

tinctive vocal techniques of lead singer, Matthew Bellamy. All the records following this, presented a different approach to their music each time; new ways of combining styles and infl uences. While Origin of Symmetry served up more harsh, aggressive material with just a few melancholic, softer pauses, The Resistance, their second to last release might be considered a rock opera with its symphonic, progres-sive and space rock infl uences. Just a quick glimpse through their sin-gles and videos over the last decade demonstrates how diverse Muse’s musical world can be. No wonder they have won so many awards over the years, including MTV Music Awards, NME Awards and a Grammy. They are noted for their live perfor-mances, fi lled with visual effects and dealing out a constant, two-hour sonic barrage.

The trio has a remarkable sense of humour, and is keen to pull a prank whenever there’s an opportunity. The band once performed on an Italian TV show where they were forced to play in playback - so they switched places, with drummer Dominic Howard stepping in behind the microphone. He was interviewed afterwards as the lead singer. Nobody noticed the difference. More seriously, they once fi led a lawsuit against Nestlé who had used their cover of Leslie Bricusse’s Feeling Good without permission in an ad campaign. Muse donated the money they won in the case to Oxfam, a large humanitarian organisation. Both these actions show how Muse offer a critique of common practice in mass media, and how they place an emphasis on originality in every-thing they do.

Papp László Budapest Sportaréna (XIV. Stefánia út 2). November 20, 8pm.

Muse

Fishbone

ParkwayDrive

Australia is still considered as an exot-ic, faraway place, especially from Europe or America. Thus, we often get surprised when we realize a band we like comes from down under, since there’s a cognitive dissonance: how can something that sounds so American (or Brittish) come from an exotic place? Of course, everyone knows that AC/DC or Nick Cave come from there, but do we know any more? Doubtful.

Parkway Drive, an outstanding hardcore-metalcore outfi t from Byron Bay, New South Wales is no exception either. Delving into a musical style so characteristic to Europe and the States, one would assume they come either from Sweden or from the East Coast. Infl uenced by the second wave of Goteborg-style metalcore that emerged at the start of the millenni-um, Parkway Drive stands out above many current metalcore-bands because they managed to rethink standard song structures and dynam-ics. Since the beginnings in 2002, Parkway Drive had the opportunity to tour with the greatest names of the genre, including Killswitch Engage, Darkest Hour or August Burns Red. And they managed to show new aspects of metalcore on their four albums so far, the latest released at the end of October.

Their Europe tour includes Budapest, and they bring three lesser known, bands with them, all with simi-lar sounds. Emmure and The World Alive, two metalcore-bands with death metal infl uences come from the US, while the Canadian band Structures tends toward djent and mathcore. These four offer a great time for all fans of polyrhythmic songs and sur-prising breaks.

Dürer Kert (XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21). November 29, 8pm.Tickets: Ft6,000/6,500.

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Mus

ic

An Irish boy from New York starts writ-ing hip-hop songs, starts a band, gains worldwide fame, then turns solo, and gains worldwide fame again. Sounds like a fairytale, right? And yet, Erik Francis Schrody, better known as Whitey Ford, even better by his stage name - Everlast made the tale come true.

First recognized in his earliest twen-ties, Everlast was a member of the hip-hop collective put together by Ice-T, Rhyme Syndicate. He released a solo album with no success at all, thus he joined forces with fellow Irish lads (and the Latvian DJ Lethal) to form House of Pain. They created an image of genuine Irish rowdies, and since they were fans of crossover, they supported such acts as Rage Against the Machine, The Ramones and the Beastie Boys. Their song from their first release, Jump Around, became an evergreen anthem which every single hip-hop party playlist definitely must contain. After a real shit-load of success during the nineties, House of Pain broke up in 1996, and fel-low Whitey continued his path as a solo artist.

As it seems, the real breakthroughs came with the initial releases, at least if we don’t count his first solo work. Whitey Ford Sings the Blues, released in 1998, was both a huge commercial and critical success. Everlast created an interesting blend of acoustic and electronic guitar-based blues and hip-hop, which showed itself on the smash hit What it’s Like. In 2000, due to his collaboration with Santana, he won a Grammy for the song Put Your Lights On. Since then, Everlast released four more LPs with dwindling critical acceptance, but his approach didn’t essentially change. A musical

world somewhat similar to that of Beck, experimenting with odd combi-nations, doing little trips into jazz, incorporating blues melodies, funky rhythms and grooves, with a hip-hop lyrical method running through it all.

There’s no great hip-hop artist with-out a real hip-hop feud - Everlast had his with Eminem when they penned half-a-dozen songs that were written only to dis each other. It all started on a show in ‘99, where they didn’t exact-ly treat the other with mutual respect. Fortunately, the whole thing didn’t end in lethal gunfire, as such stories can do. And there’s no hip-hop artist who has been shown more respect from others. It’s something that can be measured in collaborations. Everlast has done plenty of them with Cypress Hill, Limp Bizkit, Dilated Peoples, Mobb Deep, Run DMC, just to mention some of the more impor-tant ones.

For his shows, everything depends on the mood. You can expect a full ros-ter of top hits from his solo-era, his work with House of Pain, and even a selection of his collaborations. Or you can expect him to sit with a guitar and play an unplugged gig with no backing instruments. So, expect nothing, just the presence of this really creative, yet humble guy, who almost single-hand-edly shaped the face of hip-hop, being among the first white guys to achieve success in it. After his surprising, yet stunning acoustic gig at the Hegyalja Festival this summer, Whitey comes to Hungary again, this time to the capi-tal. Don’t miss him.

Dürer Kert (XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21). December 5, 7.30pm. Tick-ets: Ft4,500/Ft5,500.

EverlastThe Austrian electro-empire has sev-eral houses claiming the throne, and it seems that the emperor is always the one with the latest album. This time Sofa Surfers come from Vienna to Budapest to intruduce their LP titled ‘Superliminal’ at Akvárium Klub.

Working together for more than half and a decade Wolfgang Frisch, Michael Holzgruber, Markus Kienzl, Wolfgang Schlögl have always kept on track but with slight differences from record to record. Though they keep on experimenting with trendy genres and their sound is always slightly chang-ing, their unique and recognisable style remains. The accents have shift-ed from dub and chillout, through trip-hop to a much more rocky sound. When mentioning their musical histo-ry we can also talk about musical evo-lution, since the later LPs are as com-plex as ever, but a lot more clarity has been added with time. During the 9 studio albums produced since 1996 several guest artists have accompa-nied them but Mani Obeya – who has sung with them before – has to be highlighted. On the latest record of

Sofa Surfers he can be heard on eight of the ten tracks expressing a large scale of emotions, and in this way giv-ing a unique tone to the whole record. One thing about their concert is for sure: those who liked the band in their early years will enjoy the show as much as they would have 15 years ago.

Akvárium Klub (V. Erzsébet tér). Novem-ber 16, 9pm. Tickets Ft1,800/2,000.

Sofa Surfers

Hours of heavy and brutal rhythms and riffs await those attending the gig of the two extreme metal-levia-thans Fear Factory and The Devin Townsend Project. Both acts spe-cialize in mechanical, cold, aggres-sive metal and both are considered cornerstones of that genre.

Los Angeles-based Fear Factory have been active since ’88 with a few hiatuses here and there. Over the years however they have released 8 full-length albums. Those who have seen them before in concert may consider their current line-up a slight disappointment, for besides the only stable member Burton C. Bell and the returning Dino Cazares, the two other original members have left the band. Nonetheless, in the last two decades, Fear Factory have grown to be a defining phenomenon in the industrial and extreme metal world with their trademark combination of grindcore, industrial, thrash metal and death metal. Stylistically they

are somewhere in the middle between Godflesh and Napalm Death. Their clever lyrics about alien-ation, and the battle versus man and machine, both on a literal and a figu-rative level, plus the entire sci-fi set-ting of the songs combine to make them.something quite unique in heavy metal.

They are supported by the Canadian genius Devin Townsend, the tireless Frank Zappa of heavy metal. He’s a songwriter-guitarist-producer who creates music under a handful of pseudonyms, and usually seems to be either obsessed with creation or suffering from insomnia. His last effort was a 4 album-pack of songs he wrote after leaving the music industry and quitting drugs. This was called the Devin Townsend Project - and it is this same material he brings to Budapest for this gig.

A38 (Petőfi Bridge, Buda Side). Decem-ber 2. Tickets: Ft5,600-6,200.

Fear Factory

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Music

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Ever noticed how in the last couple of years mainstream, danceable elec-tronic music became less and less diverse, only to get stripped down to bare principles? They call it minimal, progressive, or whatever else, but the notion is almost always the same - sta-ble rhythms, thumping beats, and a small handful of never-changing mel-

odies. And this is what makes the crowd move.

So, if you are bored with this, and tired of every single party being almost the exact replica of every other one - here’s a treat for you. A DJ and produc-er who likes his music intelligent and diverse! Nathan Fake, co-founder of the record label Border Community

owns the stage for a few hours in the belly of A38. This young prodigy released his first track on the same label under the guidance of James Holden, who may also be considered his #1 most dedicated fan. The star of this kid from Norfolk is still in the rise, after three LPs and numerous mixes, among them, one prominent for

Radiohead. His newest release, Steam Days, as its predecessors, feels like Boards of Canada found a drum sequencer at last – never-ending car-pets of melody accompanied by offset, edgy drums, and with a clever use of utterly dissonant effects through and through. Techno meets IDM. This is the kind of music they use to call bedroom electronics, since nothing else is need-ed to produce it but a computer. And while traditional DJs tend to criticise this current stream of laptop-DJing, it is an emerging force to be reckoned with as the other participants of the evening indicate. 9b0, a young Hungarian producer builds his castles of dubstep, minimal and techno with the help of a few controllers, a note-book, a modified audio card and some self-developed software. Another young performer of the evening is called Tolo, member of the LavaLava crew, producing and playing music entirely through a notebook. He tends to dive into a wide variety of genres, from hip-hop through dub and deep house to minimal techno.

Three more performers of the eve-ning are members of the well known DJ and promoter gathering No Vidra Crew. The name Sinko may be known to party fans for some years now. A former member of Realistic Crew, founder of Hotel North Pole he has shared stages with Apparat, Extrawelt or Kalkbrenner during the last few years. Subotage, one of the founders of NVC may be even better known, mainly for his guerilla-sets that took place unannounced in the city. He also gained some respect playing alongside The Chemical Brothers, Moby and Tricky. He’ll play back-to-back with the youngest mem-ber of the crew, Tempo! Expect a ver-tiginous amount of styles and sub-genres throughout the night.

A38 (Petőfi Bridge, Buda Side).November 16, 11pm. Tickets: Ft3,000.

Feelgood INC presents

Nathan Fake

Nightlife

For lovers of broken beats and dark wobbly bass, the Budapest gathering of DJs and event promoters, Feelgood INC. serves a savory dish at Dürer Kert in the middle of November.

Feelgood invited two artists from the Circus Records roster to deliver their dirty, gritty, loud kind of dubstep to the public. Tony Cook alias Cookie Monsta is playing back-to-back on this evening with his fellow FuntCase. Cook used to spend hours on PlayStation creating sounds on Music

2000, which set him on a path to study music technology at college, where he was introduced to Reason software. He first presented himself as a college DJ, and had a major, sur-prising success. He was then discov-ered by Circus star Flux Pavillon who invited him to the label. James Hazell aka FuntCase walked almost the same path with the software he had used. Although he first started as a drummer, jamming with his school-mates, James quickly fell in love with

electronic music, and started produc-ing his own tracks which contain heavy drum’n’bass rhythms and the usual dubstep breakdowns.

Another prominent guest of the evening is the Polish DJ and producer residing and working in the UK called Xilent. He first began meddling with electronic music at the age of nine with a Propellerhead synthesizer. Afterwards, he consciously began to search for his own style, which he found in drum and bass. He started his career in 2007, when he moved to study in Edinburgh. After quite a few EPs and singles released by various labels, he found his place at AudioPorn Records, with a crystallized style that merges dubstep and dnb.

The domestic roster is no less impressive, in fact. Palotai, one of the real elders and tutors of electronic music in Hungary is here to show he is still always able to reinvent himself. He officially started DJing in 1991, at the then emerging Radio Tilos, to

become the main name in under-ground electronic music, regardless of genre. From heavy techno to smooth downtempo to thumping dnb - Zsolt Palotai just knows it all.

Palotai works together on a radio programme with another performer of the evening - Wondawuld, a local DJ-producer also without stylistic boundaries. He is a fanatic for the music of tomorrow, always on the hunt for new flavours, incorporating such diverse genres in his sets as soul, jazz, folk music, classical music or future jungle.

We have to mention Dublic, a duo of twins creating exciting sounds based mainly on hip-hop and funk, but travel-ling into the depths of dnb, trap or dubstep. Along with a handful of other DJs, these electronic music monstros-ities guarantee that not a single foot will remain still.

Dürer Kert (XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21). November 16, 8.30pm.

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Nightlife

NightlifevenuesOutdoor bars and clubs A38 XI. Petőfi Bridge, Buda side (464 3940/www.a38.hu). Tram 4, 6/night bus 906. Times and admission vary. Docked on the Danube at the Buda side of the Petőfi Bridge, this former Ukrainian barge is one of the cit y’s busiest music and DJ venues.

Ankert VI. Paulay Ede utca 33 (06 20 421 0921 mobile/www.facebook.com/ ankertbar). M1 Opera. Daily 4pm- 4am. The folks behind the Anker Klub, a big fun bar and club in the heart of towng took over a large building by the Új Színház, to open the city’s newest hot nightspot.

Akvárium V. Erzsébet tér (06 30 860 3368 mobile/www.facebook.com/ akvariumklub). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Literally underground: go downstairs to this half sunken space in a small park in the heart of town. The outdoor tables are busy until the wee hours and the indoor space hosts parties and concerts.

Bed Beach, Dokk Beach, Dokkoló, Sláger Terasz, Studio III. Hajógyári sziget (06 30 436 4400 mobile/06 30 445 0400 mobile/www.clubinfo.hu). HÉV Árpád híd/tram 1, 1A. Thur-Sat 10pm- 5am, and specially announced weekday parties. Admission varies. The lower end of Hajógyári sziget has four outdoor terrace spots centred around a quiet lagoon. The clubs are slick and pricey, and sometimes bring big-name

international acts. T he crowd tends toward flashy, including wealthy folks from upper Buda.

Champs Sziget Beergarden XIII. Margaret Island, Pest side (06 20 471 0029 mobile/www.champssziget.hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Thur noon- midnight, Fri-Sat noon-2am. Admission free. Combining what ’s good about a garden bar and a sports bar, this large space surrounded by trees and tall fencing on Margaret Island is a wonderful place to catch some sun, a match or both.

Corvintető VIII. Blaha Lujza tér 1-2, above the Corvin department store (06 20 772 2984 mobile/www.corvinteto. com). M2 Blaha Lujza tér/tram 4, 6. Daily 6pm- 5am. Admission to disco varies; rooftop free. Several flights of stairs, or a pokey lift, take you to the top floor of the 1970s -style Corvin department store, now a club with a massive rooftop terrace.

Doboz VII. Klauzál utca 10 (06 20 449 4801 mobile/www.doboz.me). M2 Blaha Lujza tér/tram 4, 6. Mon-Tue 5pm-1am; Wed 5pm-2am; Thur-Sat 5pm- 6am. Carefully planned decor includes massive statues made of wooden slats – check out K ing Kong climbing a tree in the court yard – in this classy club. The music tends toward mainstream, though it ’s certainly danceable. In the middle of the court yard is the ‘box’ that gives the Doboz its name: a sexy-red sound proofed room, where things go late.

Dürer kert XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21 (789 4444/www.durerkert.com). Trolley 74, 75. Daily 4pm- 5am. Admission varies. A perfect combination of good music and friendly atmosphere in a large venue next to the City Park. The concert halls host

good bands and the large atmospheric garden is divine during summer.

Ellátó kert VII. Kazinczy utca 50 (no phone/http://ellatokert.blogspot.com). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Thur 10am-1am, Fri-Sun 10am-3am. Admission free. The summer extension of the popular bohemian bar of the same name on Klauzál tér takes up a large and eccentric space in a former meat-packing plant slap in party central. A busy bar manned by a fun-loving staff is complemented by an authentic Mexican taco stand.

Fogasház VII. Akácfa utca 51 (06 30 243 0035 mobile/www.fogashaz.hu). Tram 4, 6/night bus 923. Daily 10am- 4am. Admission free. Recently expanded to a second courtyard, this communit y arts centre and bar situated in an abandoned building in District V II. T he action takes place in and around an atmospheric courtyard, and all parties are free.

Füge udvar VII. Klauzál utca 19 (782 6990/www.legjobbkocsma.hu). Tram 4, 6. Mon-Sat 9am-4am; Sun 11am-3am. Cheerful and cheap, and therefore packed with students and teens, this sparse ruin bar is mostly comprised of the courtyard of an old building in the Jewish Quarter party district, with rows of long wooden tables and benches that fill up by nightfall with young folk seeking cheap drinks.

Gondozó kert VIII. Vajdahunyad utca 4 (06 70 624 6444 mobile). Tram 4, 6. Daily 2pm-2am. Admission free. This laid-back venue, with funky decor, and indoor and outdoor spaces contains a small garden, with a few tables, and massive trees and a small bar. The indoor space

features funky old furniture, a stage and a larger bar counter.

Grandio VII. Nagydiofa utca 8 (06 20 497 1558 mobile/www.grandioparty-hostel.com). M2 Astoria/bus 7. Daily 11am-2am. Admission free. This bar in the court yard of a hostel is guaranteed a certain number of tourists as visitors, but is plenty popular with the locals. Additions for this season include a restaurant and the Szabad az Á concert venue, which hosts underground acts. T he hospitalit y is lovely, the drinks affordable and the shrubs planted last year have become large trees.

Holdudvar XIII. Margitsziget- Casino kert (236 0155/www.holdudvar.net). Tram 4, 6. Daily 11am- 5am. Admission free. Probably the busiest club on Margaret Island, and deser vedly so, the newly renovated Holdudvar has a big garden, a couple of terraces and a large, ornately decorated indoor space. Not too far from the Margaret Bridge it ’s an attractive garden by day. By evening, resident DJs spin dance-worthy tracks for a mostly younger, high-energy crowd.There’s also a restaurant in the front.

Kertem XIV. Városliget, Olof Palme sétány 3 (06 30 225 1399 mobile/www.kertemfesztival.hu). M1 Hősök tere/trolley 75, 79. Daily 11am-4am. Admission free. The garden bar inside City Park is full of trees and more intimate spaces popular with afternoon crowds. Come nightfall strings of coloured lights provide a warm ambient glow and alternative types take most of the remaining seats. The bar counter is run by a fun crew while the grill serves tempting Serbian treats. A small stage hosts bands and DJs.

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eKobuci kert II. Fő tér 1, Zichy Castle courtyard (06 70 205 7282 mobile/www.kobuci.hu). HÉV Árpád híd/tram 1. Mon-Fri 4pm-4am; Sat, Sun 10am-4am. Admission varies. A favourite of the folky set, the Kobuci kert in Óbuda provides a venue for folk musicians to play and lovers of folk music to come together. It’s expanded beyond the initial remit, spicing up the programme with rock and rap bands. A stunning outdoor space inside the courtyard of the 200-yearold Zichy Castle.

Lokál VII. Dob utca 18. (06 30 934 9434 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Thur 3pm-2am; Fri, Sat 4pm-4am. Admission free. With a management made up of some popular characters from Budapest’s nightlife scene and a location in the heart of the bar district, L okál is a stylish ruin bar and DJ haunt. The upstairs is where you’ll find a small dancefloor and regularly scheduled DJ parties and the garden at the back is a sweet spot on warm summer nights.

Mika Tivadar Mulató VII. Kazinczy utca 47 (06 20 965 3007 mobile/www.mikativadarmulato.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Tue 2pm-1am; Wed 2pm-2am; Thur-Sat 2pm-3am; Sun 2pm-1am. Admission free. This big ornate bar with three levels takes over the adjacent garden all summer long. The decor is pretty basic: they’ve thrown up tall, wooden sound-proofing walls to enclose a bare patch of ground and a big wood bar. But they get great DJs and concerts, which can go late in their adjacent cellar, and the place is often full.

Pántlika XIV. Városliget, across from Hermina út 47 (www pantlika.hu). M1

Hősök tere/bus 4, 20, 30/trolley 75, 79. Daily noon-10pm. Admission free. This oddly shaped building jammed with retro memorabilia was once an information booth in the 1970s, back when the City Park was Budapest’s exposite. The interior is fascinating but the best place to sit is on the big terrace with tables covered in red-and-white checked cloths. The shady spot is wonderful by day and fun at night, when DJs spin eclectic sets. Friendly staff serve cheap drinks and hearty Magyar grub.

Ötkert V. Zrínyi utca 4 (06 70 330 8652 mobile/otkert.blogspot.com). Tram 2/bus 105. Mon, Tue noon-midnight; Wed, Thur noon-4am; Fri, Sat noon-5am. Admission varies. This 19th-century gem of a building has been transformed into a classy downtown haunt for Budapest’s beautiful people and passing tourist trade. Several rooms are centred around an open courtyard, done up with edgy urban design that’s intentionally frayed at the edges to give a selfconscious ‘ruin bar’ look. DJs play underground and mainstream music.

Rom kert I. Döbrentei tér 9 (no phone/www.szimpla.hu). Bus 7, 8, 173. Daily noon-3am. Admission free. It’s all about attitude at this flash spot on the river next to the Rudas baths, where young folks who like to dress sexy go in search of a pick-up. Commercial house music and retro hits provide a predictable soundtrack. Less predictable are the drinks prices, which are not clearly posted and tend to be high. Despite the outward lack of appeal, the Romkert can be heaving at nigh towards the second half of the week, so if you’re looking to pull, expose some chest, and head on over.

Sufni G’art’n VII. Akácfa utca 47 (06 20 546 7226 mobile/www.sufnipub. hu). M2 Blaha Lujza tér, Tram 4, 6. Mon-Thur 3pm-2am; Fri, Sat 3pm- 4am. The tall wide courtyard of an unused old residential building is covered in the front to make an airy indoor space that includes rooms off to the side. This main floor, with two big bar counters, is decked out in old street signs and trash art. The rear courtyard is partly sheltered by trees and sun umbrellas, but otherwise is open to the sky. Save on draught beer by getting the house brew for Ft350 per half-litre. Full litres of draught are available, ranging from Ft799 for the house beer to Ft1,200 for Zlaty Bazant or Edelweiß wheat.

Super8 VIII. Kőfaragó utca 8 (06 30 334 4567 mobile). M2 Blaha Lujza tér. Daily noon-5am. A sweet little District VIII garden not far from the action, but still with a secluded feel, has a pleasant atmosphere upstairs and a downstairs section for live music and DJs playing dance music.

Szimpla kert VII. Kazinczy utca 14 (www.szimpla.hu). M2 Astoria/bus 7, 173. Daily noon-3am. Admission free. This all-season nightlife institution sprawls across the first two floors of an abandoned building, offering plenty of unusually decorated indoor and outdoor spaces. Packed by midnight most nights, it can be hard to find a table in the courtyard, but there are lots of intimate tables in the small side rooms around the outdoor space.

Treffort kert VIII. Múzeum körút 4 (www.treffortkert.hu). M2 Astoria/tram 47, 49. Mon-Fri 8am-3.30am; Sat 5pm-3.30am. This outdoor bar is located at the heart of a university campus, hence the large student contingent. Student friendly drinks prices and regular DJs keep the place packed even in the summer.

Tündérgyár IX. Tűzoltó utca 22 (www.tundergyar. hu). M3 Ferenc körút/tram 4, 6. Mon-Wed 5pm-2am; Thur-Sat 5pm-4am. Admission to concerts varies; bar free. Though not a dedicated heavy-metal club per se, the Tündérgyár is run by a management who do seem to have a penchant for the angst-ridden and grinding sounds of metal. Still, the musical programme can be diverse, with anything from an indie pop to a funk band gracing the small indoor stage. This cellar bar operates yearround, but in summer the courtyard with and small stage opens its doors.

Late-night bars Anker Klub VI. Anker köz 1-3 (06 70 505 5480mobile/ http://www. ankerklub.hu) Mon-Wed 10am-1am; Thur-Sun 10am-4am. A young crowd comes here throughout the week to enjoy this dark 300-400 sqm hall has a sparse but arty post-industrial look: the walls are nearly bare and the high ceilings are crisscrossed with shiny metal ducts. But the place really comes into its own for Friday and Saturday parties.

Csak Art Bar VII. Síp utca 4 (781 1515). M2 Astoria/night bus 907, 908, 931, 956, 973. Mon-Wed noon-2am; Thur-Fri noon-4am; Sat 4pm-4am. Trash art bar with a regular DJ programme brought to you by the folks behind the perennial student hangout Csendes.

Katapult Kávézó VII. Dohány utca 1/A (266 7226). M2 Astoria/night bus 907, 908, 931, 956, 979. Daily 9am-2am. Energising late-night bar with decadent,

sociable regulars and a staff that has seen everything, and liked most of it. The dark red walls and abundance of tattoos encourage casual intimacy.

Kuplung VI. Király utca 46 (06 30 986 8856 mobile/www.kuplung.net). M1 Opera/night bus 923. Mon-Wed 3pm- 3am; Thur-Sat 3pm-6am. Admission free. Kuplung hosts local DJs that play anything from minimal to hip hop, dubstep, drum ’n’ bass and house. On scheduled party nights, this former bus garage can get hopping. Fronted by a small outdoor bar and courtyard, and a streetfront bar.

Minyon VI. Király utca 8 (878 2016/ www.minyonbar.hu). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon, Tue noon-midnight; Wed-Sat noon-4am. Admission free. This snazzy diner, cocktail bar and DJ haunt is high design and features big DJ parties and dancing from Thursday through to Saturday.

Nemdebár II. Moszkva tér 5 (06 20 476 2102 mobile/www.nemdebar.com). M2 Moszkva tér/tram 4, 6. Mon-Tue noon- 1am; Wed, Thur noon-2am; Fri, Sat noon-3am; Sun 5pm-midnight. A teddy bear sits on the outsized DJ booth looming above a brightly painted splitlevel barroom, decorated with LPs on the walls, mirrored disco balls and a hotchpotch of bohemian furnishings. DJs spinning most nights of the week.

Vittula VII. Kertész utca 4 (no phone). M2 Blaha Lujza tér/night bus 907, 908, 923. Mon-Wed, Sun 6pm-2am; Thur-Sat 6pm-4am. Admission free. Vittula fills with a fun alternative crowd, and the odd foreigner later at night. A carefree, sociable, no-frills atmosphere encourages long, late drinking sessions. Music played by the bar staff is good and very eclectic.

Clubs B7 VI. Nagymező utca 46-48 (269 0573/www.b7.hu). M1 Opera/M1 Oktogon/tram 4, 6/night bus 914, 923, 931, 950, 979. Wed-Sat 5pm-5am. Admission varies. The house music and dance classics in this highceilinged downtown box of a club are energising, but the go-go shows can be a distraction.

Cinema Hall III. Bécsi út 38-44 (06 30 397 4185 mobile/www.cinemahall. hu). Mon-Thur 10am-11pm; Fri, Sat 9pm-6am. Not far from the cluster of slick clubs on Óbuda Island, this late night haunt has become of a favourite of Óbuda scenesters and beautiful people making the trek out from the city centre. Frequently hosts big name DJs. Lots of space for dancing on the massive dancefloor, but can get crowded for special parties.

Gozsdu Manó Klub VII Király utca 13, Gozsdu udvar (06 20 779 1183 mobile). M1, M2, M3 Deák tér. Mon-Thur, Sun 10am-4am; Fri, Sat noon-5am. Admission free. The underused Gozsdu udvar gets another boost with this new club and bar spread across two floors. Exposed brick, industrial fixtures and a low key atmosphere attract an arty crowd most nights of the week.

Kashmir Underground IX. Ferenc krt. 17 (06 20 352 4991 mobile/www. kashmirclub.hu). Tram 4, 6 Mester utca/ Wed-Sat 6pm-4am. Admission varies. An old party that’s had many homes has shifted again, this time to a location in District IX. A student-aged crowd comes here to dance to progressive electronic music.

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Spor

t

Sport

Anybody with a TV will recog-nise this popular winter sport: the game where one player throws a circular stone across

ice, while the other players sweep the ice in front of the stone to help guide it to its target. This is more or less what curling is about; however, the history of this simple sport is much more complex.

The origins of the game are unclear. Though it is a national sport in Scotland, it’s more likely that the game originated in Holland. The game was played in the Lowlands about 450 years ago - albeit not with the current rules. Dutch artist Pieter Bruegel even recorded the game in one of his paintings. However the fi rst written reference comes from Scotland, and dates back to 1540. By the 19th century curling’s popularity had exploded; reaching Canada, USA, Sweden, Switzerland, Norway and even as far away as New Zealand.

Curling was introduced to the win-

ter Olympics in 1924 in Chamonix as a demonstration sport. The British men’s team was the fi rst to win the sport. It then disappeared from the Olympics, resurfacing again at the Winter Olympics in Nagano in 1998 - this time women were also able to play the sport. Since 1998 it has been a

constant part of the winter Olympic Games.

The rules of curling are not complicated at all. There are two teams, each with four players, who take turns trying to slide their stones towards the target area. The purpose is to have as many stones in the target area as possi-ble. Each team member can slide two stones,

while the remaining team members attempt to correct the trajectory (speed, direct into a curve) by sweep-ing the ice. A game consists of ten ends. During an end, each team slides 8 stones. The teams have 73 minutes to complete all of their throws. The team whose stones are closest to the

centre of the target area at the end of the end wins! The team scores more points the closer their stones are to the centre of the target area, com-pared to their opponent’s closest stones.

In Hungary, curling is a new sport, as the Hungarian Curling Association was only established in 1989, and the number of pro-fessional sportsmen totals 200 only. At present, there is one curl-ing sheet in constant operation available to curlers, which opened in 2005 at the Kamaraerdei Curling Club (XI. Kamaraerdei út 12-14). Here everybody can try the game and what is more, every Monday there is curling training for 12-20 year olds, where starting from learning the very basics, tal-ented players can become profes-sional sportspeople.

The Hungarian curling sport achieved its best result last year, when at the Moscow B league European Championship held at the end of the year both men’s and women’s nationals made the A

league, the fi rst rank of the sport. This is a very signifi cant result, because few sports in Hungary can boast that their national team are among the ten best in Europe. Westbay SC, the win-ner – both men’s and women’s teams – of the national championship which ended in February, will represent Hungary in the A league European Championship starting in December. Eurosport will broadcast the European Championship live, so for the fi rst time Hungarian curling fans will be able to root for Hungarian teams in front of the TV screen. This will perhaps encourage more and more people to try this sport in Hungary too.

King Curling

Both the men’s and women’snational

team made the A league

Curling, a sport which conquered Europe some decades ago, is becoming increasingly popular in Hungary. Both amateurs and professionals can now pursue this spectacular sport in Budapest. In this short review you will fi nd the history and rules of curling, as well as the best places to try curling in Budapest.

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Sport

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Time Out

Editor András PappEditor at Large Scott A YoungArt Director Gábor Ocsovai

Contributors Geoff Andrew, Cath Clarke, Jonathan Fullmer, Adrienne Gallov, Ervin Gűth, Andor Harci, Emese Kálmán, Tyler Leeds, Joshua Rothkopf, Lilla Séllei, Keith Uhlich, Ben Walters.

Photos in this edition by László Kertész; other photos were provided by featured establishments and artists. Cover photo by László Kertész.

Sales Mariann Pinté[email protected];

Publisher Gergő Gellai

Published by TO Hungary Lapkiadó Kft.(Dési Huber utca 7, Budapest, 1098)

Time Out Budapest is published under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out International Limited,London UK.

Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use the trademark, name and logo of

‚Time Out’ are licensed from Time Out

Group Limited London UK. © 2012

Printed by V-TESA Bt. (Radnóti Miklós utca 11, Pécsvárad 7720)Managing Director: Gergely Varga

Reproduction in whole or in part is notpermitted without the written permissionof the publisher and Time Out GroupLimited. The publishers regret thatthey cannot accept liability for errors oromissions contained in this publication,however caused. The opinions and viewscontained in this publication are notnecessarily the views of the publishers.Readers are advised to seek specialistadvice before acting on informationcontained in this publication. Informationherein is provided for general use andmay not be appropriate for the readers’particular circumstances.

Statues, Streets & Squares

Nestling in the side of Gellért Hill and protected by a colonnade, stands a saintly fi gure holding

up a cross in his right hand as if to con-vert non-believers to the Christian faith. Less noticeable is the fi gure at the foot of the statue, a rough, morose warrior symbolizing the pagan Magyars. Unusually for statues, the choice of location is accurate, since this was the place where on September 24, 1046 the rebellious pagan hordes of Chief Vata pushed Bishop Gellért tied up with rope in a two-wheeled cart down to the river. The martyrdom of Gellért was one of the emblem-atic acts of the Magyars vacillating between their Eastern heritage and their Western adaptation.

The seven-metre high monument was erected in 1904. It was commis-sioned by Emperor Franz Joseph together with nine other statues represent-ing the most signifi cant fi gures of Hungarian history. The choice of the long-ruling Austrian Emperor and King of Hungary to include Gellért was understandable. Like himself, Gellért was a foreigner with a civilizing mission during the reign of the fi rst Hungarian king, Stephen [István], who – with German support – led his half-nomadic pagan nation to adopt Christianity and thus become part of the European mainstream. But all other similarities stop there.

Gellért was born as Giorgio di Sagredo in Venice in 980, and he adopted his late father’s name, Gerardo, as a young man. He was des-

tined to become a great scholar and champion of Christianity. After he recor-vered from a childhood disease his par-ents put him into a Benedictine monas-tery at the age of fi ve. Owing to his bright talent, ambition and strength of charac-ter, his fellow monks elected him their abbot at the age of 32. However, his ambition to be a missionary led him to resign and he decided to go to Jerusalem. Due to a shipwreck in the Adriatic and his meeting with a Hungarian monk, the course of his life was changed for good. Accepting the Magyar monk’s invitation, Gellért

arrived in Hungary in 1015, and thanks to his erudite knowledge and charismatic character he was soon in King Stephen’s favour. So much so, that the king entrusted him to be the private tutor to his seven-year-old son Imre (Emeric).

The conversion of the Magyar population from

their ancient shamanist religion took several generations. King Stephen managed to bring the whole country under his control only after 30 years in power when he defeated Ajtony, the chief of the so-called ‘black Magyars’ in the southeast. After conquering this last ‘pagan’ stronghold King Stephen delegated Gellért to organize the Csanád Bishopric, which he carried out with a missionary zeal. Gellért’s episco-pal seat soon developed into the centre of religious education, attracting young people from the region. Gellért’s indis-putable role as a defender of Christianity on Hungarian soil came after King Stephen’s death in 1038.

Since his former pupil, Prince Emeric, had died in a hunting accident seven years earlier, an interregnum followed in which Gellért played a crucial role as a protector of King Stephen’s legacy. He opposed the foreign infl uence of the Venetiantrained Peter Orseolo as well as Sámuel Aba’s fl irting with pagan forces. He was instrumental in fi nding the right solution to preserving the integrity of the kingdom by inviting Prince András back from exile in Kiev to continue the Árpád line. András was the son of Vazul, whom Stephen had blind-ed and made deaf by pouring hot lead into his ears (a practice done to inca-pacitate someone from being a ruler) after Prince Emeric’s death, Vazul had a claim to being King Stephen’s succes-sor. Gellért’s unduly cruel death was prompted by Prince András’s return to Hungary to take the throne. Together with three fellow-bishops he set off to welcome the Prince, when near the Pest ferry, his entourage was attacked by the rebel pagan forces of Vata, who hoped to make use of an imminent change of power in order to persecute the foreigners and their Christian allies. At the bottom of the hill is where he and the other bishops were stoned to death, and he tried to defend himself by hold-ing up the Cross to deter his attackers, taking his own teaching literally: ‘If we bless our pursuers, we are following Christ’s example.’ Gellért, a martyr for the Christian faith versus the pagan tra-ditions of a tribal society, was canon-ised as early as 1083, joining the ranks of Hungarian saints together with King Stephen and his son Emeric. The day of his death, September 24, is still remembered in the Hungarian calen-dar of name days. Miklós M Molnár

The greatest Magyar martyr

Nearthe Pestferry, his

entouragewas attacked

Statues, Streets & Statues, Streets & Statues,

Squares

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Documents

Time Out Budapest, November