TIGERS & BIRDS OF BANDHAVGARH

1 Birdquest: Tigers & Birds of Bandhavgarh 2011

TIGERS & BIRDS OF BANDHAVGARH

6 – 17 FEBRUARY 2011

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: HANNU JÄNNES Once again Tigers played the leading role on this very popular, and highly successful tour, but there is so much else to see in addition including many great birds, places of great natural beauty, extraordinarily beautiful buildings and the colourful, always interesting, everyday life of the Indian people themselves. This year we had really amazing close-up views of seven different Tigers, including multiple sightings of a female with three large male cubs, and the famous B2, the 15 year old dominant male. Other non-avian highlights included a rarely seen Striped Hyena, two different Jungle Cats, six Ganges River Dolphins, one Bengal Fox, a family party of Common Palm Civets and many strange looking Gharials. The number of bird species recorded was 251, and surely we would have broken the record for this itinerary without the rainy mornings at Soor Sarovar and Chambal River, which slowed our progress. Highlights among the birds included a large flock of the increasingly scarce Indian Skimmers, majestically ugly Lesser Adjutants, a family party of Black-necked Storks, great views of dancing Sarus Cranes, later voted as bird of the trip, a very confiding pair of Painted Spurfowls, two elegant Indian Coursers, Indian Black Ibis, handsome Bar-headed Goose, Red-headed, Indian and White-backed Vultures, all nowadays considered critically endangered, Crested Hawk-Eagle, White-eyed Buzzard, Great and Indian Thick-knees, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, the threatened Black-bellied Tern, magnificent Brown Fish and Mottled Wood Owls, many Jungle Owlets and sleepy Indian Scops Owls, the noisy Malabar Pied Hornbill, Jerdon’s Leafbird, confiding Orange-headed and Tickell’s Thrushes and showy White-rumped Shamas. The tour began for our international group, arriving from different parts of the world, with a late lunch at our Delhi hotel, before heading out for the dry plains near the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary for some introductory birding. As this was the first visit to India for many, the afternoon was filled with lifers. Our walk through some agricultural areas brought us common North Indian birds like Indian Pond-Heron, Common Kestrel, White-breasted Waterhen, Red-wattled Lapwing, Laughing, Red-collared and Eurasian Collared-Doves, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Greater Coucal, three cute Spotted Owlets, White-throated Kingfisher, Indian Roller, Common Hoopoe, Grey-throated Sand-Martin, White, Masked, Citrine and Sykes’s Wagtails, Red-vented Bulbul, Indian Black Robin, Black Redstart, Siberian Stonechat, Pied Bushchat, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Ashy and Plain Prinias, Purple Sunbird, Indian Silverbill, Yellow-throated Sparrow, Common and Asian Pied Starlings, Common and


Bank Mynas and Black Drongo. More arid areas held five Yellow-wattled Lapwings, flocks of Ashy-crowned Finch-Larks and Greater Short-toed Larks, a few Crested Larks, Richard's, Paddyfield, Tawny and Blyth's Pipits, Xinjiang, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, Desert and Variable Wheatears, and, best of all, two handsome Indian Coursers, our main target of the afternoon. Back in the hotel we had early dinner and a well earned rest. We were up very early the next day to catch an early morning flight to Jabalpur, that arrived there on time at nine o'clock. The long drive from Jabalpur to Tala through dry highlands, patches of forest and innumerable small villages was interrupted by a breakfast break and a few birding stops. These produced some interesting birds including Oriental Honey-Buzzard, many Black-winged Kites, Egyptian and Indian Vultures, Short-toed Eagle, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, a very brief Asian Koel (the only one of the trip), Little Swifts, Crested Treeswifts, some Rufous-tailed Larks, always a good find on this tour, two Bluethroats, Paddyfield Warbler, Siberian Chiffchaffs and a flock of Red Avadavats, plus a colony of Indian Flying Fox, a single Golden Jackal, and a Jungle Cat for one of the vehicles. We reached the village of Tala, our base for the next seven nights, in time for late lunch and then headed out for some afternoon birding in the vicinity of our resort. Interesting birds here included a Woolly-necked Stork, Indian Black Ibis, a single Oriental Turtle Dove, Yellow-footed Green Pigeons, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Indian Grey, and, rather surprisingly, three Malabar Pied Hornbills, Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets, Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Common Woodshrike, four handsome and noisy Jerdon's Leafbirds, a male Ultramarine Flycatcher, Thick-billed Flowerpeckers and Black-hooded Orioles. In the resort grounds we noted two confiding Orange-headed Thrushes of the Peninsular Indian subspecies cyanota with the black tear-drop face pattern. Next morning, full of eager anticipation, we began our exploration of the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, Tiger capital of the world. As expected there were more new park rules, the most annoying one being that our three vehicles were not allowed to stay together, which made guided birdwatching rather difficult. This rule was non-negotiable, but rest of the problems caused by the new regulations we managed to avoid by paying extra money. The new rules didn't affect our Tiger sightings though, and during the first morning we secured, admittedly rather poor, views of two individuals. On the afternoon game drive two of our vehicles headed straight back to the area where the Tigers had been seen in the morning, and had really amazing views of a family of three big young males and their much smaller mother. However, the third vehicle had stopped to photograph a showy Brown Fish Owl and Sambar Deer, and missed the whole show, but fortunately there were more Tigers to come! Birds seen in the park during the day included Lesser Adjutants, critically endangered Red-headed Vultures, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, White-eyed Buzzard, Crested Hawk-Eagle, two Peregrine Falcons of the distinctive local race peregrinator, Shaheen Falcon, Red Spurfowl, Red Junglefowl, two fearless Indian Stone-Curlews, several Large Cuckooshrikes, a flock of Long-tailed Minivets, Grey Bushchat, Brown-cheeked Fulvettas and many Grey-breasted Prinias, one of the commonest passerines in the park. A pair of cute Indian Scops Owls outside their nest hole, roosting Mottled Wood Owl at the park gate and the diminutive Jungle Owlet, together with the earlier mentioned Brown Fish Owl and a heard only Spotted Owlet brought the total of the owl species seen during the day to five. In addition to magnificent Tigers, our mammal sightings during the day included a big roost of Big-eared Horseshoe Bats, Indian Muntjac, several Sambars, large herds of Chital (or Spotted Deer) and Indian Grey Mongoose. During the lunch break (the park is closed between 10.30 and 14.45) we birded the well vegetated resort grounds finding Gold-fronted and Jerdon's Leafbirds, two tame male Tickell's Thrushes, Red-breasted and Red-throated Flycatchers, our first Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Oriental White-eyes and White-rumped Munias. We also spotted, high above us, a flock of vultures including Griffon, White-rumped, Indian, and Red-headed, the last three of which are nowadays critically endangered.


The next two days followed the same program with morning and evening drives in the park, and birding around our resort during the lunch break. The first of these days had three tigers including a female and two dominant males (the famous B2 and one of his sons) for one of our vehicles, plus one female the next day. Other interesting mammals seen during these two days included a Jungle Cat and Ruddy Mongoose among the more common deer and Wild Boars. Among the many birds seen were four Painted Spurfowls, good numbers of Red Junglefowls, a splendid Sirkeer Malkoha, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Indian Pygmy Woodpecker, good numbers of White-naped and Black-rumped Flamebacks, Olive-backed Pipits, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail, Brown Shrike, Verditer Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, a stunning male Blue-headed Rock-Thrush for some, really showy White rumped Shama, a small flock of Tawny-bellied Babblers, a single Zitting Cisticola, the only Sulphur-bellied Warbler of the trip, our first Brahminy Starlings and great views of some gorgeous Greater Racket-tailed Drongos. The next day we were permitted to drive together along the old A route, and visit some good birding spots that are off-limits to visitors usually. We heard the only Puff-throated Babbler of the trip, glimpsed an Asian Paradise-Flycatcher and heard an Indian Scimitar-Babbler, which unfortunately refused to show. The big surprise of the morning was a calling Yellow-browed Warbler, my first record of this species in Bandhavgarh. This species, which normally winters much further east, must have had an invasion this winter, as I had seen three individuals a week earlier at Melghat Tiger Reserve. On the way back we received a message about a possibility of an elephant ride to see a Tiger near the park gate, and we rushed through the park to join the action. Our subsequent views of the Tiger were not the greatest, but riding an Elephant was a new and exciting experience for most. In the afternoon we visited areas on the outskirts of the Tala village. The habitat here, sparse woodland and dry, heavily grazed grassland, doesn't look very special, but it is surprisingly bird rich and produced a good selection of species including a rather tame Indian Bushlark, several Blyth's and Olive-backed Pipits, a group of Large Cuckooshrikes, several Small Minivets and Common Woodshrikes, White-browed Fantail, Bay-backed Shrike, noisy groups of Large Grey Babblers and many Siberian Chiffchaffs, which just love this habitat. At dusk we headed to another area nearby, where we found half a dozen noisy Indian Thick-knees (including a copulating pair), and an Indian Little Nightjar flying around. Later we headed off into the back country, where we had a short night drive, which produced good views of Jungle Cat and Bengal Fox. The following morning we headed for Bandhavgarh Fort, an abandoned fort of the Maharaja of Reva, situated on the flat top of the high mountain at the centre of the Tala range. The Maharaja lived there up until the 1690s, but now the only inhabitant of the area is a Hindu priest, who looks after the temple, and nature is now slowly taking over the previously unconquered fort, which dates back to 300AD. This time we were not allowed to drive directly to the top of the mountain, but had to walk along another route from Sheshshaiya, where the impressive statue of reclining Vishnu lies by a shady pool, which is the source of the Charanganga river, the lifeblood of the park. The area surrounding the statue, which dates back to more than thousand years, is very peaceful almost the year round as the access is limited to a few vehicles per day, except on the occasions of Ramnawmi and Janmashtmi festivals, when tens of thousands of Hindu devotees are attracted to the place. During the walk up the steep hillside we encountered an exceptionally tame pair of Painted Spurfowl on the side of the trail, and visited a cave where Black-bearded Tomb Bats and Fulvous Fruitbats were roosting. On the top of the mountain our birding/sightseeing walk took us to animal statues, that represent the incarnations of Vishnu, buildings including the school, the still active temple, and the throne of the Maharaja, from where you have a vista over Bandhavgarh. Birds encountered in this interesting area included Malabar Pied Hornbills, a noisy group of Jungle Bush Quails, singing Jungle Prinia and two Indian Pygmy Woodpeckers. On route to the Fort we saw a Black Stork, a scarce bird here, by a forest pool,


and the first Common Hawk-Cuckoo of the trip was spotted by one of the vehicles. The highlight of the afternoon's rather uneventful game drive was a Small-billed Scaly Thrush, a very scarce winter visitor here, seen by Mick and Patrick. Our last full day at Bandhavgarh included some great birds with five species each of vultures and owls, Painted Spurfowl, Stork-billed Kingfisher, which had been a tricky species to find this year, and finally visual contact with a Black-naped Blue Monarch, a bird we had only heard earlier. We also had encounters with magnificent Tigers, including an elephant ride to see two young males lying on the open forest floor, and seeing their mother walking by along the jeep track. Later the same morning one of our vehicles had the same two males and their third brother crossing the road right in front of them! After lunch we were back in the same area, with about 20 other vehicles hoping for a big tiger show on our last afternoon, but unfortunately this did not materialise. The next day was a travelling day. We left very early for Jabalpur to catch our morning flight to Delhi. Once in Delhi we enjoyed a very good buffet lunch in an upmarket hotel before continuing our long journey by bus to Agra, arriving there well after dark. On the way we had a comfort stop at a roadside restaurant, which then lead to a short birding stop at a nearby pool where the very special highlight was close views of a family party of one adult and four juvenile Black-necked Storks. Other new birds here included White-tailed Plover, Black-headed Ibis, Oriental Skylark, Purple Heron and Grey-headed Swamphen. On route we also spotted a total of nine Sarus Cranes, including some really good close-up views of a dancing pair. The next morning at Agra started with heavy unseasonal rain and thunderstorms, which seriously hampered the birding at Soor Sarovar, a large bird filled reservoir close to Agra. Luckily the rain stopped for an hour or so allowing us to visit a section of the lake shore, where we encountered a number of new species including Great White and Dalmatian Pelicans, Indian Shag, Great Cormorant, Oriental Darter, Grey Heron, Asian Openbill, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Greylag and Bar-headed Goose, most of the common wintering ducks plus the handsome Indian Spot-billed Duck, Western Marsh Harrier, Greater Spotted Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Osprey, Eurasian Coot, River Lapwing, Common Snipe, Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Pied Avocet, Steppe Gull and River Tern. Back in Agra we enjoyed another delicious lunch buffet, before our local guide took us to visit that most famous of buildings, the impressive Taj Mahal. Now the weather was perfect, and in addition to all the normal tourist stuff, we also managed to squeeze in a few birds including our first Booted Eagles and Black-eared Kites. After our busy day in the hustle and bustle of Agra, it was time to head back to the dusty, colourful Indian countryside, and the charming Chambal Safari Lodge for a two nights stay. After a sumptuous dinner a Striped Hyena visited the lodge grounds and some of us managed to get decent views of this rarely seen nocturnal creature. When we headed for the Chambal river early next morning the sky was again covered with dark clouds promising rain, and they were not going to disappoint! Soon after we had left the bus and secured some new dry country birds including Common Babbler, White-eared Bulbul and Rufous-fronted Prinia, the first of the day's many rain showers arrived. Despite the unpromising weather we boarded our two boats and headed out to look for the enigmatic Indian Skimmer, our main target of the day. This year the skimmers favoured an area 16 kilometres downstream, which meant a long two and half hour boat ride, punctuated by heavy rain showers. Luckily the rain stopped for good before we reached the island where the skimmers were, and we had great opportunities to admire the flock, both in flight and on the ground. Other birds enjoyed during our cruise included a nice group of Painted Stork on a sand bar, many Bar-headed Geese and Ruddy Shelducks, the only Comb Ducks of the trip, noisy flocks of Lesser Whistling Ducks, a few Common Mergansers, Short-toed Eagle, two Long-legged Buzzards, three Bonelli's Eagles, Ospreys, a Brown Crake trying to hide from us behind


some large stones, many Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, a few Great Black-headed Gulls, a big flock of beautiful Small Pratincoles, which had recently returned to breed, many prehistoric looking Great Thick-knees, a few Sand Larks on the river bank, a couple of River Terns and a total of 15 of the scarce, and declining Black-bellied Terns, with some excellent views. In addition to these avian delights, we had better than average views of six Ganges River Dolphins, seven or so Gharials (long and narrow snouted fish-eating crocodile), including some cute baby Gharials, several Mugger Crocodiles, with their nasty grins, and Soft-shelled and Indian Tent Turtles. On the way back to our lodge we also stopped for a Brown Rock Chat, a species endemic to India which somehow had managed to escape us until now. In the afternoon, after a very late lunch, we had a walk around the lodge grounds, which produced a cute Northern Boobook and a sleepy Indian Scops Owl, plus the usual selection of the North Indian countryside birds. In the evening we had the opportunity to see three cute Common Palm Civets that were fed behind the kitchen by the lodge staff. Our last day in India began with a very early start for Delhi airport, where we arrived in good time despite dense fog. Then it was time to thank everyone for being such a great company, which together with all the magnificent Tigers, excellent birds and exciting places, had made this such a memorable tour.


SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Notes on conservation threat categories and information are taken from the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/index.html PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Ten birds en route to Bandhavgarh, five birds en route to Agra, five

at Soor Sarovar and two near Chambal Safari Lodge. PELICANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: 10 at Soor Sarovar. Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus: Four at Soor Sarovar. It is considered as Vulnerable by BirdLife

International. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: Scattered records of small numbers. Indian Shag (Indian Cormorant) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: Six at Soor Sarovar. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: 30 birds were noted at the Chambal River and 20 at Soor

Sarovar. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: 15 at Soor Sarovar. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Only two in the Bandhavgarh area, and a scattered few elsewhere. Great Egret Egretta alba: 10 by the Yamuna in Agra and 10 at the Chambal river. A scattered few were

noted elsewhere. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: Scattered few were noted. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: One at Soor Sarovar, 15 the Yamuna in Agra and 12 at Chambal River. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: A scattered few were noted. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Common and widespread. Indian Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii: Widespread in small numbers. CICONIIDAE Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: Two in Delhi, one en route to Agra, one at Agra and a flock of

15 at the Chambal River. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: 15 were noted at the Chambal River and 50 at Soor Sarovar. Black Stork Ciconia nigra: A singleton at Bandhavgarh. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: One en route to Bandhavgarh, a total of three there, five en

route to Agra and five at the Chambal river. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus: Great views of a family part of an adult male (dark

iris) and four juveniles en route to Agra. In addition one was at Soor Sarovar. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: Up to six birds daily at Bandhavgarh. It is classified as

Vulnerable by Birdlife International. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: 30 at Soor Sarovar. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Two en route to Agra, one at Soor Sarovar and one

near Chambal Safari Lodge.


Indian Black Ibis (Red-naped Ibis) Pseudibis papillosa: Small numbers were noted daily at Bandhavgarh. In addition 20 at the Chambal River, two at Soor Sarovar and three in flight near Sultanpur. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: 10 at Soor Sarovar, 15 at the Yamuna in Agra and 10 at the Chambal river.

ANATIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica: 400 at the Chambal River, and a flock of 50 in flight

between Agra and Chambal Safari Lodge. Greylag Goose Anser anser: 15 at Soor Sarovar. Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus: 200 at the Chambal River and at Soor Sarovar. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: 50 at the Yamuna in Agra and 40 at the Chambal River. Comb Duck (Knob-billed Duck) Sarkidiornis melanotos: Five of this rather scarce duck seen at the

Chambal River. Gadwall Anas strepera: 50 at Soor Sarovar, 10 at Agra and 100 at the Chambal River. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: Ten at Soor Sarovar and three at the Chambal River. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Ten at Soor Sarovar. A rare bird on this itinerary! Indian Spot-billed Duck (Burmese Spot-billed Duck) Anas poecilorhyncha: 40 at Soor Sarovar. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: 200 at Soor Sarovar. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: 500 at Soor Sarovar and 100 at the Chambal River. Garganey Anas querquedula: Eight at Soor Sarovar. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: 100 at Soor Sarovar and 10 at the Chambal River. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: One at Soor Sarovar. Common Merganser Mergus merganser: Three at the Chambal River. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested Honey-Buzzard) Pernis ptilorhynchus: One or two noted daily at

Bandhavgarh. Black-winged Kite (Black-shouldered Kite) Elanus caeruleus: Scattered records of small numbers. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Common in the urban Delhi/Agra region, and two en route to

Bandhavgarh, where totally absent. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: Four were identified at Taj Mahal in Agra. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Widespread in small numbers. Considered as Endangered

by BirdLife International in Threatened Birds of the World following a very recent and extremely rapid population decline in India (resulting from poisoning by the veterinary drug Diclofenac) combined with severe long term declines in Europe and West Africa, plus ongoing declines through much of the rest of its African range, owing to a variety of threats.

White-rumped Vulture (Indian White-backed Vulture) Gyps bengalensis: A total of nine in the Bandhavgarh region. As recently as 1985 the species was described as “possibly the most abundant large bird of prey in the world”. Since the mid-1990s, it has suffered a catastrophic decline (over 99%) across the Indian Subcontinent. Now the population is estimated to be less than 10 000 individuals and the species is classified as Critically Endangered by Birdlife International. The population crash has been caused by the massive misuse of veterinary drugs in India in recent years. Hopefully the recent ban of the drug will help this and the following species to recover.

Indian Vulture Gyps indicus: Happily, still relatively common at Bandhavgarh, where we recorded up to 20 in a day, but absent elsewhere. An Indian Subcontinent endemic following the splitting of the threatened tenuirostris (Slender-billed Vulture, occurring from, the


Himalayas to SE Asia). It is listed as globally Critically endangered by Birdlife International for the same reasons as the previous species.

Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: One or two were noted almost daily at Bandhavgarh. Red-headed Vulture Aegypius calvus: Up to four birds were noted almost daily at Bandhavgarh. Like

several other Indian vultures this species has suffered an extremely rapid population reduction in the recent past which is likely to continue into the near future. For this reason it is classified as Critically Endangered.

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus: One en route to Bandhavgarh and one at the Chambal River area. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Fairly common at Bandhavgarh, where we had some really

close up views of perched individuals. In addition one at the Chambal river. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Four at Soor Sarovar. Shikra Accipiter badius: Scattered records of single individuals. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: A total of five at Bandhavgarh and one in the Chambal River

region. White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa: Rather common in the Bandhavgarh area this year with up to

four in a day. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: Two at the Chambal River. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: One at Soor Sarovar. Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca: One at Soor Sarovar. Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: Three, including a breeding pair at nest, at the Chambal river. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: One pale and two dark morph birds at Taj Mahal in Agra. Crested Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: One to two birds were noted almost daily at Bandhavgarh.

An Indian Subcontinent endemic (providing the northern form limnaeetus is treated as specifically distinct).

PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Three at the Chambal River and one at Soor Sarovar. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: One to three birds were noted on five days. Peregrine Falcon (Peregrine) Falco peregrinus: A total of three at Bandhavgarh. Subspecies involved is

the locally breeding rufous bellied subspecies peregrinator, which is know as Shaheen Falcon.

PHASIANIDAE Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus: One male at the Chambal river was seen by the first boat,

and heard by all. Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus: A total of six in the Chambal area and one crossing the

road near Sultanpur on our first day. In addition up to four were noted almost daily in the Bandhavgarh region, where this species used to be rather difficult to find just a couple of years back. An Indian Subcontinent endemic (just reaching SE Iran and introduced in Arabia).

Jungle Bush-Quail Perdicula asiatica: Group of six at Bandhavgarh Fort. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea: Four at Bandhavgarh on our first morning. Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata: Better than average showing at Bandhavgarh with a total of

nine birds including a very confiding pair at the fort. Endemic to India. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Rather common at Bandhavgarh with up to 15 a day. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus: Common and widespread. National bird of India and an Indian

Subcontinent endemic.


GRUIDAE Sarus Crane Grus antigone: A total of nine from the bus between Delhi and Agra including great

views of a dancing pair. Voted 1st in the Bird of the Trip contest. It is listed as Vulnerable Birdlife International.

RALLIDAE White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Scattered records of a few. Brown Crake Porzana akool: One at the Chambal River was a nice surprise. Grey-headed Swamphen (Grey-headed Gallinule) Porphyrio poliocephalus: 40 on various roadside

ponds between Delhi and Agra. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Small numbers were noted in the Delhi area, on the way to

Agra and at Soor Sarovar. Eurasian Coot (Common Coot) Fulica atra: 150 at Soor Sarovar. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: One at a village tank en route to Bandhavgarh. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Six at a village tank en route to Bandhavgarh and three at

the Chambal river. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: 15 at the Chambal River. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Six at the Chambal River. Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus: This handsome plover was recorded in small numbers

near Sultanpur, at Bandhavgarh (a total of 16 birds) and near Chambal Safari Lodge. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: Four at Soor Sarovar and at the Yamuna in Agra, and 25 at the Chambal River.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Common and widespread. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: One by a roadside pool en route to Agra. A scarce bird on

this itinerary! SCOLOPACIDAE Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Singletons near Sultanpur and at Soor Sarovar. 'Western' Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: One at Soor Sarovar. Rasmussen & Anderton (The

Ripley Guide, 2005) state that this species is probably better split into two species: the 'Western' Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa and 'Eastern' Black-tailed Godwit Limosa [limosa] melanuroides. Only the former has been observed on this tour.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: One at Soor Sarovar. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Small numbers were noted at Sultanpur, en route to Agra, at Soor

Sarovar, and at the Chambal. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Scattered records of small numbers. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Scattered records of small numbers. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Only small numbers were noted. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Scattered records of few individuals. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: Two near Sultanpur and two at the Chambal River. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: A flock of 50 in flight near Sultanpur, two en route to Agra, 15 at Soor

Sarovar, 100 at Taj Mahal, and one near Chambal Safari Lodge.


RECURVIROSTRIDAE Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Two at Soor Sarovar. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Quite common and widespread outside Bandhavgarh. BURHINIDAE Indian Stone-Curlew (Indian Thick-knee) Burhinus indicus: A total of eight at Bandhavgarh, and three

at the Chambal river. Some great views were obtained. Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris: Great views of 25 of these magnificent birds at the Chambal

River. GLAREOLIDAE Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus: Two near Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary. Voted 3rd in the Bird

of the Trip contest. An Indian Subcontinent endemic Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: An impressive total of 150 at the Chambal river, where they had

just arrived to breed. LARIDAE 'Steppe Gull' Larus [heuglini] barabensis: Five at Soor Sarovar. Great Black-headed Gull (Pallas’s Gull) Larus ichthyaetus: One adult at the Yamuna in Agra and two

at the Chambal River. STERNIDAE River Tern Sterna aurantia: Rather scarce this year. Four at the Chambal River and two at Soor

Sarovar. Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda: A good total of 15 of these graceful, declining and endangered

terns at the Chambal River. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: One at Soor Sarovar. RYNCHOPIDAE Indian Skimmer Rynchops albicollis: A flock of 16 on a small island, including some great views, at

the Chambal River. Voted 2nd in the Bird of the Trip contest. This, now increasingly rare and localized species is listed as Vulnerable by Birdlife International because its population is undergoing a rapid decline as a result of widespread degradation and disturbance of lowland rivers and lakes. The current population estimate is between 6000 and 10 000 birds.

COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (Rock Dove) Columba livia: Common and widespread in the Delhi/Agra region, but

only a few at Bandhavgarh. Unlike most parts of the world, India has true wild populations (intermedia being the subspecies in our area) and most birds we saw were ‘wild type’.

Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Small numbers were encountered at Bandhavgarh. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Scattered records of small numbers. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Common at Bandhavgarh. Red Collared-Dove (Red Turtle-Dove) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Three near Sultanpur and flock of

100 near the Chambal Safari Lodge. Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Rather common outside Bandhavgarh, where only

ten were noted. Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera: Widespread and often rather common.


PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Common in the Bandhavgarh region. Only a few were

noted elsewhere. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked Parakeet) Psittacula krameri: This noisy bird was common and

widespread. Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala: This beautiful parakeet was common at Bandhavgarh

and the Chambal region. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. CUCULIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Widespread in small numbers. Sirkeer Malkoha Taccocua leschenaultii: Good views of one for one of our vehicles at Bandhavgarh. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus: One was seen briefly en route to Bandhavgarh. Common Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx varius: Two at Bandhavgarh, and the first of the season calling

at Chambal Safari Lodge. STRIGIDAE Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena: At least three different roosting birds at Bandhavgarh and one

at the Chambal Safari Lodge. Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis: Three sightings of this magnificent bird at Bandhavgarh. Mottled Wood Owl Strix ocellata: A roosting pair at the park gate at Bandhavgarh were noted almost

daily. This really cute owl is an Indian endemic, and Bandhavgarh is a great place to see it.

Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum: A number of good sightings of this fierce-looking little owl were obtained at Bandhavgarh, with up to six in a day.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama: One or two birds were noted daily at Bandhavgarh. In addition three near Sultanpur and a total of six in the Chambal area.

Brown Hawk-Owl (or Brown Boobook) Ninox scutulata: One roosting bird was seen well at the Chambal Safari Lodge.

CAPRIMULGIDAE Indian Little Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus: One was flying around us outside the park at

Bandhavgarh. APODIDAE Little Swift Apus affinis: Small numbers were noted on four days. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Small numbers of these elegant and rather noisy swifts were

noted daily at Bandhavgarh. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: A total of four birds at Bandhavgarh. HALCYONIDAE Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis: Scarce this year. A total of four at Bandhavgarh. White-throated Kingfisher (White-breasted Kingfisher) Halcyon smyrnensis: Widespread and quite

common at Bandhavgarh and in the Delhi/Agra area. CERYLIDAE Lesser Pied Kingfisher (Pied Kingfisher) Ceryle rudis: Eight at the Chambal River.


MEROPIDAE Little Green Bee-eater (Green Bee-eater) Merops orientalis: Seen daily in small numbers. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Common and widespread. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian Hoopoe) Upupa epops: Widespread in small numbers. BUCEROTIDAE Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris: Common and widespread in the Bandhavgarh region. Also a

few at the Chambal Safari Lodge. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus: This impressive bird gave good views at

Bandhavgarh, where we observed up to 10 birds on four days. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

MEGALAIMIDAE Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica: Fairly common and widespread. An Indian Subcontinent

endemic. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Fairly common at Bandhavgarh. Elsewhere one at the

Chambal Safari Lodge. PICIDAE Indian Pygmy Woodpecker (Brown capped Pygmy Woodpecker) Dendrocopos nanus: A total of four

at Bandhavgarh. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker (Yellow-crowned Woodpecker) Dendrocopos mahrattensis: A total

of three at Bandhavgarh. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense: Rather common at Bandhavgarh. White-naped Flameback (White-naped Woodpecker) Chrysocolaptes festivus: This enigmatic Indian

Subcontinent endemic was common and easy to find this year at Bandhavgarh with up to six birds a day.

ALAUDIDAE Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera: Great views of two outside Tala village at Bandhavgarh, and

one at the Chambal river. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Ashy-crowned Finch-Lark (Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark) Eremopterix grisea: Good views of a flock of

50 near Sultanpur and ten en route to Bandhavgarh the next day. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicura: Three en route to Bandhavgarh. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: A flock of 50 near Sultanpur and 150 at the Chambal River.

Sand Lark Calandrella raytal: Three at the Chambal River. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: Two near Sultanpur and four at the Chambal River. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: One en route to Agra, and one singing bird at the Chambal River. HIRUNDINIDAE Grey-throated Sand Martin Riparia chinensis: 50 near Sultanpur and 100 at the Chambal River.


Dusky Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor: Surprisingly scarce this year. Two birds were noted only twice at Bandhavgarh. In addition few birds between Jabalpur and Bandhavgarh.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Surprisingly scarce on this itinerary. A few individuals were noted on three days.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii: Small numbers daily at Bandhavgarh. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Small numbers were recorded on five days at Bandhavgarh. MOTACILLIDAE White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba: Recorded in small numbers in the Chambal area and near

Sultanpur. Masked Wagtail Motacilla [alba] personata: Common in the Chambal area. In addition two near

Sultanpur. This form is frequently treated as specifically distinct, and is certainly one of the best candidates in the alba complex for full species status.

White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis: This ultra smart wagtail was noted in good numbers in the Chambal area. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Citrine Wagtail (Yellow-hooded Wagtail) Motacilla citreola: Two near Sultanpur and a few en route to Agra.

Sykes’s Wagtail Motacilla [flava] beema: One near Sultanpur. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Scattered records of ones and twos. Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi: One near Sultanpur. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Scattered records of small numbers from Sultanpur to Bandhavgarh. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: Two near Sultanpur, one at Bandhavgarh and one at the Chambal

River. Blyth’s Pipit Anthus godlewskii: One near Sultanpur and a total of eight including some good views

at Bandhavgarh. A winter visitor to the Subcontinent. This pipit was named by Taczanowski in 1876 after Edward Blyth (1810-1873), an English zoologist and author, who worked as a Curator of the Museum of the Asiatic Society of Bengal from 1842 to 1864.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Ten near Sultanpur and two at the Chambal river. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Small numbers were noted almost daily at Bandhavgarh. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: This noisy species was widespread and fairly common at

Bandhavgarh. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: Widespread and common at Bandhavgarh. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Three small flocks, 14 in total, at Bandhavgarh. A winter

visitor this far south in India. Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: Rather common at Bandhavgarh. MONARCHIDAE Asian Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: Two seen at Bandhavgarh. Black-naped Monarch (Black-naped Blue Monarch) Hypothymis azurea: Many leave Bandhavgarh in

the cold months, but we still managed to see one individual, and four more were heard. RHIPIDURIDAE White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: A few at Bandhavgarh. PYCNONOTIDAE White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis: Two near the Chambal River. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Very common and widespread.


AEGITHINIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Widespread and fairly common at Bandhavgarh. CHLOROPSEIDAE Gold-fronted Leafbird (Golden-fronted Leafbird) Chloropsis aurifrons: A total of eight at Bandhavgarh.

This year was rather good for both leafbirds at Bandhavgarh. Jerdon’s Leafbird Chloropsis jerdoni: A total of nine at Bandhavgarh. Thomas Claverhill Jerdon (1811-

1872) was a British physician who had both zoological and botanical interests. He worked as an assistant surgeon in the East India Company and published, among other things, Birds of India, which according to Darwin, was THE book on Indian birds.

LANIIDAE Xinjiang Shrike (Chinese Shrike) Lanius [isabellinus] arenarius: Two near Sultanpur on the first

afternoon. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus (NL): One at Bandhavgarh. Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus: One of these smart shrikes near Sultanpur, one at Sultanpur and

one at the Chambal river. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Scattered records of small numbers. TURDIDAE Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina: Two showy birds at lodge grounds in Bandhavgarh.

Subspecies concerned is the southern cyanota. Small-billed Scaly Thrush Zoothera (NL): One was seen by Patrick and Mick. Tickell’s Thrush Turdus unicolor: Couple of nice males performed well in our lodge grounds in

Bandhavgarh. Also one female inside the park. This is a winter visitor from the Himalayas and an Indian Subcontinent endemic.

MUSCICAPIDAE Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva: A total of 14 in Bandhavgarh, two near our lodge at the

Chambal and two more at Soor Sarovar. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga Flycatcher) Ficedula albicollis: Rather common at Bandhavgarh and

also two at our lodge at the Chambal River. Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris: A total of seven including good views of a male at

Bandhavgarh. Yet another winter visitor from the Himalayas. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus: One just outside our resort at Bandhavgarh. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae: Widespread in small numbers at Bandhavgarh. Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher (Grey-headed Flycatcher) Culicicapa ceylonensis: Widespread in

small numbers at Bandhavgarh and one at Chambal Safari Lodge. A winter visitor from the Himalayas.

Blue-headed Rock-Thrush Monticola cinclorhynchus: A gorgeous male was seen on two days at Bandhavgarh.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Two en route to Bandhavgarh and one near the lodge at Chambal. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: A total of five including some great views at

Bandhavgarh. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Small numbers were noted daily at Bandhavgarh. Indian Black Robin (Indian Robin) Saxicoloides fulicata: Widespread in small numbers. Seen almost

daily. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: Widespread in small numbers. All appeared to be of the form

rufiventris (breeding from the central Himalayas eastwards).


Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Two near Sultanpur, one at Bandhavgarh and a total of three in the Chambal area.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata: Two near Sultanpur, one en route to Bandhavgarh and a total of eight in the Chambal area.

Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea: Same two birds were seen on several occasions at Bandhavgarh. Another winter visitor from the Himalayas (or beyond).

Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata: One female near Sultanpur and another one en route to the Chambal River. The three different looking regional forms of this species are variously considered morphs, races or distinct species.

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti: One distant bird near Sultanpur and two closer males at the Chambal River.

Brown Rock-Chat Cercomela fusca: A handful of birds were noted. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. TIMALIIDAE Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum (H): One was heard at Bandhavgarh. Indian Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus (H): We worked quite hard for this species, but only managed

to hear a single bird that refused to show. An Indian endemic. Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra: Small groups of this skulking babbler were seen on four

occasions at Bandhavgarh. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus: Quite common in the Chambal area. Elsewhere, one was

heard outside the airport at Jabalpur. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi: These impressively large babblers were common in the

Chambal River area. Elsewhere, small numbers were noted near Sultanpur, outside Tala village at Bandhavgarh and en route to Chambal Safari Lodge. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus: Very common and widespread. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala: Rather easy to find this year. Small numbers were

seen almost daily at Bandhavgarh. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Two at Bandhavgarh. Rufous-fronted Prinia Prinia buchanani: Three birds with some decent views at the Chambal River. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: Common at Bandhavgarh. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis: This elegant prinia was noted near Sultanpur and at the Chambal Safari

Lodge. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica: We struggled with this robust prinia, but finally managed to connect

with one singing bird at Bandhavgarh fort. In addition we heard another bird there. An Indian Subcontinent endemic.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: One near Sultanpur, one at Bandhavgarh and a total of four in the Chambal region.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Widespread and fairly common at Bandhavgarh. SYLVIIDAE Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola: One en route to Bandhavgarh. A scarce bird on this

itinerary. Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum: Surprisingly scarce this year. Only two were seen in

the Bandhavgarh area, and one was at Soor Sarovar. A winter visitor from northern Eurasia.

Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus tristis: Scattered records of small numbers.


Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus: Surprisingly scarce this year. Only one at Bandhavgarh. These birds breed in Central Asia.

Yellow-browed Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: One was heard calling and also seen rather briefly at Bandhavgarh. This is the first time this species, which normally winters much further northeast in India was observed on this itinerary. Perhaps there was some sort of invasion, as I also recorded this species three times a week earlier at Melghat Tiger reserve, which is five hundred kilometres due southwest of Bandhavgarh.

Hume’s Warbler (Hume’s Leaf Warbler) Phylloscopus humei: Common in the Bandhavgarh region, but only a few elsewhere. A winter visitor from the Himalayas and associated mountain ranges. Allan Octavian Hume (1829-1912) was a famous Theosophist and poet, and an expert in Indian ornithology. He joined the Bengal Civil Service at the age 20 and his ornithological works include three-volume classic 'The Game Birds of India', 'Indian Oology and Ornithology', 'The Nest and Eggs of Indian Birds' and 'Stray Feathers'. A total of 13 bird species have been named after him.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides: Likewise common at Bandhavgarh but only a few elsewhere. Subspecies concerned is viridanus.

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: A handful of birds were noted. These birds appear to belong to the Siberian form blythi.

PARIDAE Grey Tit Parus cinereus: Small numbers almost daily at Bandhavgarh. SITTIDAE Indian Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Small numbers at Bandhavgarh. After the split from the widespread

Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, this form becomes an Indian Subcontinent endemic. DICAEIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: Widespread in small numbers at Bandhavgarh. Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos: A total of six at Bandhavgarh. All of them in or

around the lush garden of our resort. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. NECTARINIIDAE Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Common and widespread. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Common at Bandhavgarh. Also noted en route to

Sultanpur and at the Chambal Safari Lodge. FRINGILLIDAE Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus (H): One was heard at Bandhavgarh and another one at

the Chambal river. ESTRILDIDAE Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: A flock of ten en route to Bandhavgarh. Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica: Six at our resort at Bandhavgarh, and smaller numbers in the

Chambal region and at Soor Sarovar. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Small numbers at Bandhavgarh. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Widespread in relatively small numbers.


Yellow-throated Sparrow (Chestnut-shouldered Petronia) Petronia xanthocollis: Common at Bandhavgarh, and one near Sultanpur.

STURNIDAE Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum: Two flocks of four at Bandhavgarh and four at Chambal Safari

Lodge. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra: None at Bandhavgarh, but rather common elsewhere. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Common and widespread. Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus: Very common and widespread in the Delhi/Agra region. An

Indian Subcontinent endemic. ORIOLIDAE Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: Small numbers were noted daily at Bandhavgarh.

Subspecies concerned is the Peninsular Indian maderaspatanus, with a very distinct call, which readily separates it from the N Indian nominate form.

DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Common and widespread. White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens: Small numbers were seen almost daily at Bandhavgarh.

An Indian Subcontinent endemic. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Small numbers of these striking birds were noted

almost daily at Bandhavgarh. CORVIDAE Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: This smart pie was widespread and fairly common. House Crow Corvus splendens: Very common and widespread in the Delhi/Agra region, but scarce

in Bandhavgarh. Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus: Common and widespread at Bandhavgarh. In addition a few

were noted in the vicinity of the Chambal River. An Indian Subcontinent endemic. MAMMALS Northern Palm Squirrel (Five-Striped Palm Squirrel) Funambulus pennantii: Widespread in small

numbers. Jungle Cat Felix chaus: Two at Bandhavgarh. Elsewhere, one en route to Bandhavgarh by one of the

vehicles. Tiger Panthera tigris: This year we again had a great Tiger show at Bandhavgarh. We had amazing

close up views (and photo opportunities) of seven different individuals, including three large cubs and the dominant, now 15 year old male called B2. Once again voted 1st in the Mammal of the Trip contest. In 2002 the Tiger census in India estimated the number of Tigers in India to be around 3700 individuals. However, the use of more reliable and independent census technology (including camera traps) for the 2007-2008 all-India census has shown that the numbers (1411 individuals) were in fact less than half than originally claimed by the Forest Department! One of the main threats for the survival of Tiger population in India is the unrelenting poaching pressure due to illicit demand for bones from wild Tigers for use in traditional Chinese medicine, coupled with the international trade in Tiger skins. In 2006, India's Sariska Tiger Reserve lost all of its 26 Tigers, mostly to poaching and in 2009, the Panna Tiger Reserve also reported that there were not any tigers left within the sanctuary due to excessive poaching. The number of Tigers at Bandhavgarh is estimated to be around 50, and poaching seems to be under


control, but for how long? Drastic action is required to save this magnificent animal from extinction!

Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus: A tame family party of three at Chambal Safari Lodge.

Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii: One at Bandhavgarh. Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii: A total of five at Bandhavgarh. Bengal Fox (Indian Fox) Vulpes bengalensis: One at Bandhavgarh during our short night drive. Striped Hyena Hyaena hyaena: One in the lodge grounds at Chambal river after dinner was a great

surprise. This animal is generally rather difficult to see due to its nocturnal habits. Golden Jackal (Common Jackal) Canis aureus: Small numbers were encountered at Bandhavgarh and

at the Chambal River. Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus: 50 en route to Bandhavgarh, and 50 at the regular site at

Chambal Safari Lodge. Fulvous Fruit-bat Rousettus leschenaultii: 50 rather large bats believed to be this species were

roosting in one of the old buildings on the way to Bandhavgarh Fort. Big-eared Horseshoe Bat Rhinolophus macrotis: 100 of these small bats were seen together in one of

the caves at Bandhavgarh. Black-bearded Tomb Bat Taphozous melanopogon: At least two individuals in one of the old

buildings on the way to Bandhavgarh Fort. Northern Plains Grey Langur (Hanuman Langur) Presbytes entellus: These attractive, black faced

monkeys were widespread and common at Bandhavgarh and even visited our lodge grounds.

Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta: Daily encounters at Bandhavgarh. In addition, good numbers were seen in the Chambal/Agra regions and near Delhi.

Ganges River Dolphin (Ganges Dolphin) Platanista gangetica: A good showing this year at the Chambal River with a total of six individuals and some surprisingly good views. Ganges river dolphin has been recognized by the government of India as its National Aquatic Animal. It is classified as endangered by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Censuses of portions of its range have collectively accounted for 1,200–1,800 animals, but the true population is believed to be larger because some potentially important areas have yet to be surveyed. Major threats are water development projects, which have dramatically affected the habitat, abundance, and population structure of this species throughout its range, pollutant loads in rivers, deliberate killing for their meat and oil, and mortality in fishing gear, especially gillnets, which are a severe problem throughout most of its range.

Eurasian Wild Boar (Indian Wild Boar) Sus scrofa: Fairly common at Bandhavgarh. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: This year six individuals were noted at

Bandhavgarh. Sambar Cervus unicolor: Common at Bandhavgarh. Chital (Axis Deer, Spotted Deer) Cervus axis: Very common at Bandhavgarh. Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus: One en route to Agra, and four between Agra and

Chambal Safari Lodge the next day. REPTILES Gharial Gavialis gangeticus: Seven of these extraordinary, long-snouted crocodiles at the Chambal

River. This, one of the three crocodilians found in India, is a critically endangered species. In the 1970s the gharial came to the brink of extinction and even now remains on the critically endangered list. The conservation efforts of environmentalists in cooperation with several governments has led to some reduction in the threat of extinction. Now there


are nine protected areas for this species in India which are linked to both captive breeding and 'ranching' operations where eggs collected from the wild are raised in captivity (to reduce mortality due to natural predators) and then released back into the wild (the first being released in 1981). More than 3000 animals have been released through these programs, and the wild population in India is estimated at around 1500 animals. The release of captive gharials has not met with the success that was expected. Recently more than 100 gharials died in India in the Chambal River from an unknown cause with gout-like symptoms. This recent death toll is expected to have decreased the number of breeding pairs to less than 400. Tests of the carcasses conducted suggest the possibility of poisoning by metal pollutants.

Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustris: Three of these more traditionally-built crocs at the Chambal River.

Bengal (Common Indian) Monitor Varanus bengalensis (NL): One was seen at Bandhavgarh by some of us.

Rock Python Python molurus: One at Bandhavgarh for some of us. Ganges Soft-shelled Turtle Aspideretes gangeticus: Six at the Chambal River. Indian Tent Turtle Pangshura tentoria: 30 at the Chambal River.

Tigers of Bandhavgarh (image by Brian Dyke)

Image by Hannu Jännes Image by Geoff Tassell

Wire-tailed Swallow (Hannu Jännes)

We experienced some heavy rain at the Chambal river (image by Patrick Floré)

Ruddy Shelducks and Painted Storks at the Chambal (Brian Dyke)

Indian Skimmers at the Chambal river (Hannu Jännes)

Brown Fish Owl Sarus Crane (Geoff Tassell)

Indian Black Ibis (Brian Dyke) Indian Stone-Curlew (Brian Dyke

White-rumped Vulture (Hannu Jännes) Orange-headed Thrush (Geoff Tassell)

Crested Serpent Eagle (Hannu Jännes) White-rumped Shama (Brian Dyke)

Red-headed Vulture (Geoff Tassell) Lesser Adjutant (Hannu Jännes)

Documents

TIGERS & BIRDS OF BANDHAVGARH