Three Shower Refresh Ideas

If you’ve been yearning to trade in your tired old tub for a swanky new shower but dread the prospect of tearing down walls, you’re in luck. There are loads of great options for transforming your alcove bath into a sleek, sophisticated shower space you’ll love to use every day. And it doesn’t need to cost a fortune. Here are three options to consider.

1. Install a shower base.A smart alternative to tile flooring, shower bases are easy to install and a breeze to keep clean. They’re available in acrylic material or enameled cast iron and come in a wide range of styles and colors. Some bases come with integral seats for the ultimate in convenience.

2. Add a shower door.Fabric or plastic shower curtains attract mold and mildew and are hard to keep clean. Consider installing easy-to-clean frameless sliding shower doors to instantly add elegance to your bathroom.Shower doors fitted with clear glass make your bath seem more spacious, providing a particularly nice aesthetic upgrade for petite baths. Levity® bath and shower doorsfeature glass bypass panels and minimal framing for an open, contemporary look.

3. Turbocharge your water experience.Here’s the fun part: Exploring the many options available for spray experiences (like multifunction showerheads, rainheads and bodysprays) you can use to personalize your shower. Choose from a selection of spray types, or make it simple and go for a pre-configured shower package. The HydroRail® shower column lets you combine the showerhead of your choice with a convenient handshower. Or, add a transfer valve, and you can choose up to three different water delivery options. And if you want to control your water temperature and shower experience from outside the shower with presets for multiple users, a digital shower valve makes it easy.

Replacing your blah bath with a new shower can make your morning routine more fun and efficient. Have fun exploring the possibilities.Need more ideas or help? Find a showroom near you.

INSTALL A SHOWER FAUCETTOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

TOOLS

Allen keys Basin wrench Adjustable wrench Adjustable pliers Slip joint pliers Circle cutter (hole saw) Copper soldering torch Star screwdriver

MATERIALS

1 90º elbow for the shower spout 1 drop ear elbow, ½" TPT × ½" 4 female threaded pipe adapters Shower faucet, head and spout set polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape  Soldering coil Solder paste Steel wool or sandpaper Small steel brush   

BEFORE ASSEMBLY

WATER SUPPLY PIPES

You can connect your shower pipes using either copper pipes or PEX plastic pipes. Copper pipes will require soldering. Although PEX pipes are easy to install and do not require soldering, water pressure may be compromised since the metal rims are secured inside the pipes, thus reducing the diameter.

PEX tubing cannot be connected directly to the hot water tank or exposed to a significant source of heat.

The following project proposes using both copper and PEX. 

ADVICE

To facilitate access to your plumbing in order to make adjustments or carry out repairs, we recommend making a trap door in the wall.

The project below is restricted to the installation of a shower or bathtub-shower faucet. Details concerning shower stall or ceramic tile installation are not included.

STEPS1 PREPARE THE INSTALLATION

1.1. Shut off the water supply to the shower. 

1.2. Use a pencil to mark the location of the shower head, and of the bathtub faucet and spout if required.

Height of the faucet: between 45" and 48" Height of the shower head: between 72" and 78" Height of the spout: between 24" and 28" 2 INSTALL THE VALVE

2.1. Install a cross stud between the two studs at faucet height to attach the valve. 

2.2. Position the valve so that the “UP” indication faces up to the ceiling. 

2.3. Make sure it is level, then screw it to the cross stud.

2.4. You can weld directly on the valve. Weld the ½" TPT × ½" copper (recommended) adaptors directly on each side of the valve. Don’t overheat the valve; you could damage it. For PEX pipes simply screw on the adapters.

2.5. Connect the hot and cold water supply pipes to the adapters.

2.6. Connect the shower riser tube, the long pipe connecting the shower head to the valve, in the same way. 

2.7. If this is a bathtub-shower, you should install a spout for the bathtub. Connect the tub spout in the same way and install a 90o elbow toward the bathtub-shower. Attach a piece of copper pipe that will protrude from the wall surface after the wall covering has been installed. If the valve is for a shower installation without a spout, screw on a ½" brass cap to plug the outlet that won’t be used. First, wrap the filets with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape.

3 INSTALL THE DROP EAR ELBOW.

3.1. Install a cross stud between the two studs at shower-head height to attach the drop ear elbow. 

3.2. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the filets of the upper outlet of the drop ear elbow. 

3.3. Connect the drop ear elbow to the shower head supply tube. 

3.4. Screw the drop ear elbow to the cross stud.4 CLOSE THE WALLS

4.1. Put the shower stall in place. If this is a ceramic tile shower, start constructing the wall surface by installing fibre-cement panels as a base, followed by your ceramic tiles. 

4.2. Use a hole saw to drill holes at the appropriate height for the shower faucet, the tub spout (if necessary) and the shower head.5 INSTALL THE DECORATIVE PLATE AND THE FAUCET HANDLE

5.1. Remove the protective template attached to the valve. 

5.2. Slide the decorative plate onto the valve. 

5.3. Position the holes in the plate over the holes in the front of the valve, insert screws and tighten with a screwdriver. 

5.4. Screw the handle adapter on the cartridge and, using the hexagonal Allen key, install the handle. The lever should point downwards when the faucet is turned off.  

6 INSTALL THE SHOWER HEAD

The wall is not shown in the illustration opposite so that we can show the pieces located behind the wall.

6.1. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the showerhead filets and wrap the tape around the filet two or three times. 

6.2. Hand screw the shower head, then tighten the connection ¼ turn with an adjustable wrench.

6.3. If your set includes a flexible connector, install it now.  7 INSTALL THE TUB SPOUT

Tub spouts are either screwed or slid on a pipe. The copper pipe must not have any defects or imperfections; the pipe’s cut end must be flawless inside and out. The edge must also be smooth, with no sharp edges. 

Sliding tub spout

7.1. Turn the spout on the copper pipe so that the setscrew faces upward. Use a hexagonal Allen Key to moderately tighten the screw. 

7.2. Turn the spout to the “normal” position, while making sure it’s well installed against the shower stall wall. 

7.3. Use a hexagonal Allen key to tighten the screw securely. 

Screwed tub spout 7.4. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the sleeve filets and screw on the spout. 

8 VERIFY THE INSTALLATION

8.1. Open the hot and cold water supply.

8.2. Check all connections for leaks. 

8.3. Run the water on a “lukewarm” setting for a full minute to remove any air from the pipes.

Installing a Shower or Tub FaucetInstalling separate 3/4-inch lines to supply the shower ensures good water pressure and protects from temperature changes when another faucet is turned on or the toilet tank refills. Tap into the cold and hot water lines as close to the water heater as possible.Choose the tub or shower faucet before you run pipes. Follow the manufacturer's directions for plumbing the faucet. If your faucet does not have integrated shutoff valves, install shutoff valves in the lines to the valve.Assuming an 18-inch-tall tub, position the faucet about 28 inches above the floor for a tub, about 48 inches for a shower. You may want to compromise and position it about 38 inches above the floor.Prestart ChecklistTimeAbout half a day to run supply lines and install a tub/shower faucetToolsDrill, tubing cutter, multiuse wire brush, flame guard, propane torch, damp rag, groove-joint pliersSkillsAccurate measuring and drilling, working with copper pipePrepTap into the hot and cold water lines and run 3/4-inch pipe up into the room; if needed, move a stud to make room for the plumbing behind the tubMaterialsTub/shower faucet, copper pipe and fittings, flux, solder, pipe-thread tape

Step 1Most faucets come with a plastic cover that protects the faucet and serves as a guide for the depth at which it must be set. To determine where to place the braces, consider the total thickness of the finished wall -- often 1/2-inch-thick backerboard plus 1/4-inch-thick tiles

Step 2Determine how high you want to locate the spout (make sure it will clear the tub), faucet handles, and showerhead. Install a 2x6 brace for each. Anchor the braces with screws rather than nails so it's easier to move them if they need adjustment

Step 3Assemble all the pipes in a dry run. Install 3/4-inch pipe up to the height of the faucet, add reducer couplings or elbows, and run short lengths of 1/2-inch pipe to the threaded adapters on the faucet. Add hammerarresters. Anchor the faucet according to manufacturer's directions.

Step 4Once you are sure of the connections, sweat all the fittings. Start at thefaucet, then move on to the shower arm and spout connections. Run 1/2-inch pipe up to the shower arm and down to the spout; attach drop-ear elbows at both spots.

Step 5Finger-tighten a threaded nipple -- either brass or galvanized -- into both drop-ear elbows. Once the wallcovering is in place, remove them and install the shower arm and tub spout.

IntroOnce you shut off the water and remove the handle and escutcheon, you can quickly determine whether your single-handle tub and shower faucetis a cartridge, ball, or disk type.Getting the partsTub cartridge faucets work just like sink cartridge faucets. Usually the faucet only turns water on and off; a diverter valve on the spout directs water to the showerhead or the spout. A number of manufacturers make cartridges of varying designs, so take the cartridge with you when you shop for parts. You may need to replace the entire cartridge. Follow the steps remove it.ChecklistTimeAn hour or two for most repairsToolsScrewdriver, hex wrench if needed, groove-joint pliers, cartridge puller if neededSkillsShutting off water, dismantling a faucet, installing small partsPrepShut off the water, close the tub stopper, and place a rag in the tub to catch any partsMaterialsCartridge or repair kit for your faucet model, silicone grease

Step 1Shut off the water and turn the faucet on until water stops running. To remove the handle you may need a hex wrench, which is sometimes included in a repair kit. Remove the screws holding the escutcheon and slide out the escutcheon.

Step 2If there is a chrome sleeve, unscrew it or pull it out. Use a smallscrewdriver to pry out the retaining clip that holds the cartridge in place.

Step 3Some cartridges can be removed easily with pliers; others require a special cartridge-pulling wrench (usually available at hardware stores or home centers) made for a specific brand of faucet.

Step 4If the cartridge is in good shape, replace the O-rings and any other worn parts. (It doesn't cost much more to replace the cartridge.) Rub the O-rings with a thin coat of silicone grease.

Step 5Insert the new or repaired cartridge into the faucet body, oriented as it was originally. Slide in the retaining clip and replace the handle and escutcheon.

What If... You find a tapered cartridge?This cartridge works by virtue of its tapered shape, rather than a series of grooves. Note the cartridge's orientation when you remove it so you can put it back the same way. If hot and cold are reversed after you reinstall the cartridge, turn it 180 degrees.

AMERICAN STANDART

F042E01K : Acacia Rain Shower Complete with D20S

CAD View | Download CAD

OverviewLet’s face it. Showers are the bathing choice of just about everyone. So if your bathroom has become

a family bottleneck because you don’t have enough shower stalls or the one you have is leaking, read

on. We’ll show you how to replace a leaky base, replace a tub with a shower only or install an

additional shower to handle demand. Preformed shower bases have vastly simplified the installation

process. They’re virtually leakproof and are vastly easier to install than traditional solid mortar bases.

Still, setting a base can be challenging, especially when you’re remodeling older plumbing. In this

article, we’ll show you how to rip out an old tub and replace it with a one-piece fiberglass shower

base. We’ll walk you through the tricky parts, first how to relocate the drain just right, then the

necessary venting. Next, we’ll show how to set a rock-solid base—one that won’t crack or leak down

the road. Our step-by- step instructions will take you right up to the point where the walls are ready to

finish. But we won’t go into those finish details here.

This is mostly a plumbing project. To take it on, you should be familiar with basic pipe joining

techniques. Mostly this involves cutting and cementing plastic pipes and fittings. Don’t worry if you

make mistakes. The materials are inexpensive and corrections are easily made by cutting out

sections and installing new fittings and pipes.

Completing this job—getting the old tub out, reworking the plumbing and installing the new base—will

take a Saturday at least, a weekend at most. If you have to run a drain line through joists or studs, we

recommend that you rent a 1/2-in. right-angle drill and a 2-in. hole saw (or bit; Photo 6). Otherwise

basic plumbing tools and hand tools are all you’ll need. Be sure to apply for a plumbing permit and

have an inspection done at the rough-in stage (when everything is still exposed) and after everything

is complete (wall surfaces finished, final hardware installed).

Planning the jobStart by deciding on the size of the shower base and ordering it. Delivery can take weeks, so don’t rip

anything apart until the new one is in hand. If you’re replacing an existing base, simply get one the

same size. If you’re replacing a tub with a shower as we did, there are more details to consider. You’ll

have the fewest problems if you match the new base to the old tub’s width (the front of the tub to the

wall). Go wider if you like, but you may have to replace flooring. Or you may overstep required

minimum distances from toilets and sinks. You might have to shift the supply valve as well. Keeping

the same tub footprint (or smaller) minimizes the hassles.

We replaced a 5-ft. tub with a fairly spacious 4-ft. base the same width as the tub. (See “Selecting a

Shower Base,” below.) We framed a 1-ft.-wide filler wall at the end, which is a nice place to build

recessed niches and shelves for shower supplies.

Now’s a good time to buy a new shower valve too, especially if your old one doesn’t have scald

protection, as all new ones do. It’s a big project to replace a valve that fails after tile or wall panels are

installed.

You’ll need an assortment of pipes and fittings for installing the new drain and for reworking water

lines. Pick them up after you open up the floor and walls. At that point you can see what you need,

plan the new drain and water supply runs and make a list of supplies. Make a sketch like Figure A to

help you keep track of parts.

Shower base and drain details

Figure A: Shower Base/Drain Details

Make a sketch of the project that includes the waste, vent and water supply. Drawing the details will

help avoid potential problems and also reduce the number of trips to the hardware store.

Remove the old surround and tub

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Photo 1: Remove the wall

Remove the faucet valve handles and escutcheons. Cut through the drywall that surrounds the tile

with a utility knife and pull chunks from the wall.

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First unscrew the showerhead and the bathtub spout. Most styles will unscrew, but some will need

persuasion with a pipe wrench. If you want to reuse any parts, wrap the tool jaws with cloth to prevent

damage. Then remove the handle and mixing valve escutcheon cover. Most handles have a little

plastic cap that pops off to expose a screw. Remove the screws and pull off the handle and the

escutcheon.

Next, strip off the tub surround. Begin by cutting completely through the drywall around the perimeter

with a utility knife. If you have cement board behind the tile, simply cut through the tape joint at the

ceiling and strip the entire wall. Rip off the tile and drywall together in big chunks (Photo 1). If you

have a fiberglass surround with a flange behind the drywall, cut 2 in. outside of the enclosure and pry

the sections free one at a time.

With the wall open, disconnect the plumbing. Usually you can access the trap from an access panel in

the room behind the tub or from an unfinished basement. If you don’t have access, you’ll have to cut a

hole in the wall from behind the tub base. If your shutoff valves are in good shape, cut off the water

lines above them. If they’re missing, stuck or corroded, shut off the main supply valve, cut off the

water lines and install two compression fitting–style ball valves and leave them in the closed position

so you can turn the water back on to the rest of the house (Photo 2). Cover the ends with tape to keep

out debris.

Fiberglass and steel tubs are fairly light; you can just tip them up and carry them away (Photo 3). If

framing makes it difficult to pull out, cut out more drywall along the plumbing wall. Then you can pull

the tub away from the wall before you tip it up. Cast iron tubs, on the other hand, are extremely heavy,

and we recommend just busting them up with a sledgehammer and carrying out the pieces. (Lay an

old blanket over the tub to catch flying shards, and wear safety glasses for this!)

Mark the exact drain location and open up the floor

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Photo 4: Mark the new drain

Set the shower base in place and mark the drain hole.

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Snug the new shower base up to the wall studs and mark the drain hole (Photo 4). Then pull it aside

and draw an access slot on the subfloor (Photo 5). Make the slot about a foot wide and extend it just

beyond the new drain location. Keep the edges of the slot over the middle of joists wherever you can

to make patching easier later. Make reference marks on the floor outside the slot so you can relocate

the center of the drain once you remove the flooring (Photo 6). Pull any nails that fall within the cutting

lines. Then set your blade depth to cut just through the subfloor, make the cut and pry it free (Photo

5).

Rough in the drain and vent lines

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Photo 6: Cut a path for the drain

Drill 2-in. holes through the floor joists for the new drain line. Reference marks help you find the drain

center later.

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With the floor and wall open, you can plan your new drain and vent lines. Reworking drain and vent

lines will be slightly different with every bathroom, but our photos and Figure A will give you the

general idea along with a look at the various fittings you may need.

If your tub didn’t have a vent, you’ll probably have to add one. A local plumbing inspector will tell you

the rules (usually within 42 in. of the shower P-trap) when you apply for a permit. The new vent must

join the main vent at least 6 in. above any “spill lines” (that usually means sink rims) that share the

vent. You’ll probably have to open a wall to get it in (Photos 7 and 8).

The two keys for adding a drain are to make sure the horizontal lines slope 1/4 in. for every running

foot and that the P-trap opening falls directly below the shower drain hole. Start by measuring the

height of the center of the existing drain line and the distance to the new drain. Cut off the old P-trap,

then run the drain line to the new drain location (Photos 6 and 9). Remember to allow 1/4-in.-per-foot

slope when you drill holes in joists. Drill 2-in. holes to leave some room to move the 1-1/2-in. pipe up

or down to get the necessary slope. But don’t drill in the lower or upper 2 in. of any joist. Most shower

drains are designed to receive 2-in. piping, while most existing tub drains are 1-1/2 in. The plumbing

code calls for the transition to be made with a reducer directly below the shower (Photo 10), nowhere

else.

To run the new vent, mark a section of main stack for removal using the 3 x 1-1/2-in. tee (with 6-in.-

long nipples) as a guide (Photos 7 and 8 and Figure A). If your main stack will be plastic, cutting it is

easy with a hand or reciprocating saw with an 8-in. blade. If you have cast iron, you’ll have to rent a

pipe snapper to make the cut. Slip the fitting into the opening and secure it with transition couplings.

Then run the vent line down to the drain, cutting holes in the framing as needed. Horizontal sections

should also follow the 1/4-in.-slope rule, running downhill toward the drain. Cut all the pipes and dry-fit

them one at a time to the fittings, then double-check the drain line slopes and final drain position. Set

the shower base in place to double-check the final placement of the P-trap, inserting a short,

temporary tailpiece (Photo 9). When you set the shower base permanently, measure and cut a

permanent tailpiece and cement it into place.

Starting at the main vent and working toward the P-trap, begin cementing the parts together. If you’re

using PVC, hold the parts together for about 20 seconds after cementing. Otherwise, the parts will

“squirt” apart before the solvent cures. Save the P-trap-to-drain-line connection for last. Cement it

together, and quickly plumb the P-trap with a 6-in. level before the joint sets (Photo 9). Your building

inspector will want to see the drain and vent (and possibly the water supply rough-in; Photo 11) before

you close up the floor.

Patch the floor

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Photo 10: Close the floor

Add blocking to shore up the subfloor and screw a patch to the framing with 1-5/8-in. screws. Add a

second layer of 1/2-in. subfloor if your finished floor covering will permit it.

Add blocking to bolster unsupported plywood edges and screw a patch to the framing with 1-5/8-in.

screws (Photo 10). We added a second layer of 1/2-in. underlayment under the entire shower for a

sturdier floor and to better match the finished floor height (1/2-in. backer board and tile). If you need to

preserve the original floor height, skip the second layer, but add blocking under the single-layer patch

to fully support the shower base.

Shower base

Selecting a Shower Base

You won’t be able to enter a home center and walk out with a 4-ft.-long shower base like the one we

show. Ask to go through the plumbing fixture books there to special-order one that suits your bath

decor and budget. Some come with drain adapters, as ours did. You’ll have to check, and purchase a

separate shower drain kit if needed. The manufacturer’s directions will help you choose the right one.

There is another (but more costly) option if you’d like to skip all of the extra venting and drain work.

Select a shower base that has the drain located at one end, right or left, chosen to match your old tub

drain. Select one the same length as the tub and you won’t even need to add filler walls. Since the

drain position roughly matches the tub drain, you may not have to add a separate vent, cut out and

patch the floor, or reroute the drain line.

Mount the mixing valve and redo the supply lines

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Photo 11: Run new supply lines

Mount a new mixing valve and run new CPVC or copper tubing from the ball valve to the mixing valve

and showerhead. Cap the tub spout outlet on the underside of the mixing valve. Turn on the water

and check for leaks.

Unless you’re planning to reuse all of the existing supply lines and valves, simply cut out and remove

everything and start fresh. Use a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw.

If you’ve chosen a shower base that’s wider than the tub, center the new mixing valve and

showerhead over the base. Choose a valve height that’s comfortable to reach and clears any

obstacles, and make sure the showerhead lands either above or below the top edge of the shower

enclosure or tile. Mount the mixing valve first, following the manufacturer’s instructions, and then fill in

the pipes and fittings to and from it (Photo 11). You’ll need to add blocking to support it.

There may be a threaded nipple or hole in the bottom of the mixing valve for a tub spout. Be sure to

cap that. After everything is together, shut off the mixing valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.

Level the base and mark the studs

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Photo 12: Position the base

Level the shower base on all four edges, shimming where needed. Mark the lip where it abuts studs.

Measure, cut and cement the final tailpiece to the P-trap.

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Photo 12 shows you how to dry-fit, level and shim the shower base. Take your time. Getting the base

level is critical for good drainage. Mark the lip height on the studs and outline the shim locations so

you can lift out the base and return it to the exact position. Some bases require that you fit it over a

tailpiece when you set it in mortar.

To set the base, mix up about half a 60-lb. bag of mortar with water to a creamy consistency. Avoid

concrete mix; stones in the mix will hold the base away from the floor. Spread the mortar over the

floor under the base, about 1 in. or so thick. Then lower the base into the wet mix, forcing it down to

the shims and the stud marks. Make sure to push it against the wall. Let it cure overnight. Don’t use

the base as a work platform until the next day or you’ll disturb the mortar before it cures. Clamp the

base lip to each stud if clamps are included with the unit. Otherwise, clamp it with fender washers and

2-in. screws. Avoid drilling through the lip and screwing the base directly to the studs. The base might

crack and leak.

Attach the drain and frame the end wall

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Photo 14: Complete the drain hookup

Anchor the base to the studs with screws and washers. Push the rubber gasket into place and seat it

with a nut driver.

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The base will have directions to guide you through the final drain hookup; your drain system may vary

from ours. Cut the tailpiece and cement it at the right height. If your drain has a thick rubber gasket,

wet it with soapy water and then work it around the tailpiece pipe. Finish seating it by driving it down

with a blunt tool.

Our base was shorter than the old tub, leaving a void between the wall and the base. We filled in the

space with a 2x4 wall. Add backing where the new walls meet existing ones to make the connection

solid and for anchoring backer board. And if you leave it short of the ceiling as we did, you can add a

convenient built-in shelf.

Copper to CPVC transition

Copper vs. CPVC

If you're comfortable working with and soldering copper, by all means go ahead and use it for your

water supply lines. We show CPVC plastic fittings because the installation is as simple as cutting and

cementing plastic fittings, just as you do with plastic drain and vent lines. To make the transition from

copper to CPVC, use compression fittings as shown. You'll find all the CPVC fittings and pipes you

need at any hardware store or home center.

Back to Top

Tools & Materials

Required Tools for this ProjectHave the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and

frustration.

Hammer

Miter saw

Tape measure

Circular saw

4-in-1 screwdriver

Adjustable wrench

Corded drill

Level

Framing square

Hacksaw

Hole saw kit

Knee pads

Jigsaw

Nut driver

Pipe wrench

Reciprocating saw

Safety glasses

Slip joint pliers

Soldering torch

Trowel

Tube cutter, Utility knife

Required Materials for this ProjectAvoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

2 x 4s

Mortar mix

1/2-in. copper or CPVC supply lines

Transition couplings

1-1/2-in. pipe and elbows for waste and vent

2-in. x 1-1/2-in. reducer coupling

1-1/2-in. P-trap

Shower base

1/2-in. plywood

2-in. screws

Washers

Shims

CALGARY PLUMBING: HOW TO CARRY OUT THE INSTALLATION OF A SHOWER FAUCETPosted at August 3, 2012 | By : chris | Categories : Plumber | 0 Comment

CALGARY PLUMBING: HOW TO CARRY OUT THE

INSTALLATION OF A SHOWER FAUCET

In this particular article, I will take you through the process of installation of a shower faucet. To put it briefly, few sections of a copper pipe will be connected to the shower valve and the whole assembly will then be connected with the supply plumbing, prior to concealing of the pipes and installation of the drywall. The shower faucet in consideration is a Moen Posi- Temp.

Installation of a fresh shower faucet is actually a much less difficult task than it may actually seem, especially in case of a scenario where in it is being done as a part of a remodeling project involving the complete bathroom. However, there are still some very important dimensions which you must keep in mind and strictly observe in order to make sure that the faucet works as per expectations. The instructions detailed in this article will inform you about some of these critical issues. For instance,it is important that the valve must never protrude out from the drywall else it may almost become impossible for the faucet’s cover plate to get properly sealed against the wall.

Keeping in mind the valve’s height is another important aspect. In my case, I made it a point that the faucet’s center was placed around 48 inches above the level of floor.

START WITH THE VALVE INSTALLATION AND THEN WORK BACKWARDS

After taking few measurements, I connected together three different sections of 0.5 inches copper pipe to the body of the valve. Every section of the pipe features a male threaded adapter which was soldered to its corresponding end. I ensured that all the male threads were properly coated in the pipe thread compound (also commonly referred to as pipe dope) prior to screwing them together.

All these connections make it necessary that the pipe wrench holds the body of the valve and the use of a large adjustable wrench for turning the male threaded adapter. I would like to specifically mention here that I initially purchased the wrong faucet in this case. My intention was to buy a faucet that had solder connections. Any given day I would have opted to return it to the shop I had bought it from, but in this scenario as my purchase was done almost at the other end of the state, which was a good threehour drive away, I preferred to make use of a shower faucet instead which had soldered connections.

This was done because the threaded connections are often difficult to be kept watertight and even if a small drip is left concealed inside the cavity of a wall, it can result in considerable damage/s.

I made it a point to properly wipe off all excess ‘thread compound,’ else the resulting goo would have found its way into all places in all the directions. I must mention that it requires a considerable amount of torque to successfully prevent such type of connections from succumbing to leakages. One of the most important challenges that all beginners face is gettingfamiliar with the extent to which such threaded connections must be tightened. Connections that are meant to be hidden right behind a drywall are not in the most ideal locations to practice such tasks.

TIGHTENING UP THE THREADED PIPE

You must keep in mind that threaded pipe fittings need to be extremely tight in order to seal them properly. All my plumbing sources have told me that as per the official procedure, you must first tighten the pipe fitting by your own hands and only then make use of a wrench for turning the fitting an additional one or two turns. I must re-emphasize here that you must turn the pipe fitting with wrench at least once and a maximum of two times after tightening it with bare hands.

This particular Moen-Posi Temp shower valve that I had purchased is exactly identical to their commonly available tub faucet valve, apart from the fact that in this case the bottom port (that instead would have got connected with the tub spout) uses a brass plug for shutting it off.

Tub Trivia:

For those highly inquisitive ones among you all, especially the ones who are always interested in getting behind things and understanding their workings, the most interesting aspect about all of the modern tub baths is the manner in which the water gets diverted into the shower head. The only thing you’ll be required to do is blocking the water flow at the point of tub spout and you will notice the water getting forced up into shower riser pipe and thereafter out through the nozzle. This can also be done easily by covering up the spout by your bare hand/s or with the use of a washcloth at the time when water is already running into the bath tub.

Some old types of tub faucets make use of a rotating lever for the purpose of directing the water upwards. However, I still have my doubts whether these kinds really do work in the same manner as described above.

The image that you see on the left shows a drop eared elbow. It features ears which are meant for the purpose of mounting on to a solid structure like some piece of wood block. Its threaded end normally accepts any standard type of L-shaped shower tube that is installed after completion of the wall surfaces.

I made a temporary attachment of this drop eared elbow onto a 2 x 4 block of wood that was installed in between studs. Thereafter I was easily able to take the measurements of the riser pipe length needed for connecting to the faucet.

After I took the measurement of the length, I soldered both the drop eared elbow and the riser pipe together. The drop eared elbow will get connected with the short riser pipe which was attached to the body of the valve, as described in the stepnumber one.

At this point, the riser pipe’s two sections were soldered together.

If there was a need, I could have easily created the shower riser pipe out of just one piece, however it would have increased the probability of the drop eared elbow not getting in perfect alignment with the body of the valve. Somehow, it just seemed that it was much easier to obtain the perfect alignment by simply mounting the drop eared elbow onto the wooden support, and thereafter making the last connection in pipe length’s middle portion, at a safe distance from any type of combustible material.

Jumping a little ahead:

As you can see in the image on the right, the supply lines and the valve body have been connected together properly.

Please take note of the fact and observe how I made use of a 45° elbow and a 90° elbow to achieve the required pipe alignment (rather than using two separate 90° elbows). As a result, this particular arrangement will have comparatively less pressure loss.

Furthermore, as is evident in the image on the left, the supply pipes are made to drop down around two feet out from the bottom. From this point onwards, they will get connected to the fresh supply lines which will be soon installed underneath the floor.

The image that you see on the right is of the room below and me looking straight upwards. Let me tell you for the information’s sake that have an almost sore neck merely by a short glance at this picture!

As you can see in the image, there is a small pipe which is coming out through the floor. This is the hot water pipe which is branching into the shower. The large size pipe (of

around 3/4 inch diameter) is the newly installed supply line meant forthe two bathrooms on the second floor.

Please take note of the heat shields created from sheet metal, meant to provide protection to the surroundings from the great amount of heat generated by the torch. Another important point that must be taken into consideration is that the heavier the gauge is, the better it will be.

Once all the fresh supply pipes were in their place, we carried out a test for leakages by applying water pressure into the whole system. This is a very significant step that must be taken prior to concealing the pipes and installation of the drywall.

Clearview Plumbing and Heating is a Calgary Plumbing and Heating company based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada which is available round the clock to carry out any type of Calgary Plumbing or Heating job.