You know the furniture. Now discover the cabinetry..

the helpful guide tocabinet installation

1

Introduction 2

Tools You’ll Need 3

Step 1 - Preparation 4

Step 2 - Removal 4

Step 3 - Wall Cabinets 4

Step 4 - Make a “Map” 5

Step 5 - Mark for Base 6

Step 6 - Installation of Wall Cabinets 7

Step 7 - Install Base Cabinets 9

Lazy Susan Installation 10

Specialty Cabinets Installation 11

Step 8 - Installing on the countertop 11

Step 9 - Door and Drawer Alignment 12

Step 10 - Installing the Hardware 13

Wood Dust Caution 13

Warped Door Policy 14

Care and Cleaning 15

Trouble Shooting 15

table of contents

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WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU ENLIST THE SERVICES OF ALICENSED, PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER FOR THE INSTALLATION OF YOURTHOMASVILLE CABINETRY.

This booklet covers the basic guidelines of installation and might prove helpful when installingyourself. However, you should be aware that each project will have some unique characteristicsand no installation guide could cover them all. As the installer, you are fully responsible for yourfinished product. Thomasville Cabinetry disclaims all responsibility for any damages arising fromcabinet installation. In addition, the warranty on your cabinets becomes void if the cabinets arein any way modified, improperly installed or damaged prior or during installation.

Thank you for purchasing Thomasville Cabinetry!

Villa Maple Toasted Almond with Black Accents

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• Stud finder

• Patching plaster and putty knife

• Small carpenter’s saw

• Claw hammer

• Assortment of straight blade and Phillips head screwdrivers

• Steel tape measure

• Carpenter’s level at least 24" in length

• Chalk line or string

• A few cedar shakes, shingles or other suitable tapered pieces of wood for shims

• Scribing tool and pencil

• Variable speed drill with 7/32", 3/16" and 1/4" drill bits and screwdriver attachments

• Step ladder

• Extension cord

• 2" – 6" bar clamps (“C” clamps will also work)

• Carpenter’s square

Figure 1

IMPORTANTS h u t o f f w a t e r t o t h e s i n k a n d d i s h w a s h e r. W es u g g e s t a p l u m b e r h a n d l et h e w a t e r s h u t - o f f s .

W e r e c o m m e n d c o n s u l t i n ga n e l e c t r i c i a n t o t u r n o f fg a s o r e l e c t r i c i t y t o t h er a n g e , c o o k t o p a n d o v e n .

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tools you’ll need

Figure 2

HINTS1.) Remove doors,

drawers and shelves for full access during installation.

2.) Mark them accordingly so proper components are returned to correctcabinets.

step1 –preparationFamiliarize yourself with the kitchen plan andmake sure all cabinets and accessories havebeen delivered and are free of damage.

Next, check all dimensions on your plan withthe actual cabinets to make sure everythingfits. With a stud finder or by gently tappingthe walls, locate and mark studs (usuallylocated 16" apart - on center).

Verify stud location by driving a small finishingnail into the wall (an area that will be coveredby the cabinets).

s tep 2 –removalRemoving old cabinets, as well as appliancesand unattached items, provides a better workspace and ensures accurate measuring.

Countertops are usually screwed through thecabinet corner braces. Locate these screws,back them out and lift the tops off. If nailed,simply use a crowbar.

Now you can remove the base cabinets. Mostwill be screwed to the wall through the back ofthe cabinets. Again, back the screws outunless nailed.

Now you can remove the wall cabinets.FIRST, unscrew adjoining cabinets. Then,remove screws from the back of cabinets. Ifthere is a soffit, remove screws at the top. Ifwall cabinets were nailed, pry them loose. Becareful an entire section doesn’t come downat once.

Finally, remove any mouldings that willinterfere with cabinet installation.

s tep 3 – wal l cab inetsWall cabinets are usually installed first, so theinstaller can stand in front or to the side of thecabinet. We recommend that you remove thedoors from the cabinets before installing byunscrewing the hinge from the cabinet frame(Figure 2). This ensures easier handling andprevents damage to the doors duringinstallation. Remember to mark the doors andcabinets with a system that will helpdetermine the original pairing of door andcabinet.

Remove all shelving from the cabinet.

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Figure 3

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s tep 4 –make a “map”It’s helpful to transfer your kitchen plan rightonto the actual walls of your kitchen. Here’show to do it.

Determine the HIGH POINT in the floor bylaying a straight 2 x 4 on edge. Draw a BASELINE on the wall at the level of this high point(see Figure 3). ALL vertical measurementsmust be taken from this point. If the kitchenhas a pre-built soffit, it is important that thebottom of the soffit be at least 84 1/2" and notmore than 84 3/4" from the high point of thefinished floor. The minimum is needed to allowa tall cabinet to be installed under the soffit butthe maximum of 84 3/4" should be held so thattrim moulding is able to cover the gap betweenthe top of the cabinets and the bottom of thesoffit.

Draw a level line on the wall 54 1/4" up from theBASE LINE on the floor. If a tall cabinet is not

used, the wall cabinets may be hung at anydesired height from 51" to 54 1/4" from thefinished floor. (Some prefer to have their wallcabinets hung a little lower so that the topshelves are more accessible.) Extend thelevel line to the corner of the room that will bethe starting point. Then, continue the linearound the corner to the end of the cabinetrun. Draw vertical lines where cabinets jointogether. If 15" or 18" high cabinets are usedanywhere in the run, another level line shouldbe drawn 12" or 15" up (whichever isrequired). This line should be horizontalbetween the two vertical lines that indicate thespace where this cabinet will be located. Thiswill be the bottom line of the 15" or 18" highcabinet.

Place a length of 2 x 4 (or other suitablestraight edge) against the wall to find the highand low spots on the wall. Tack shims to thelow spots and remove high spots with ascraper. Take care to remove plaster only inplaces that will be covered by the cabinets.

Mark outlines of all cabinets to check actualcabinet dimensions against your layout.

step 5 –mark for baseBring the rest of the floor up to the high pointin this manner: draw a line on the floor at thefront edge of the subbase (Figure 4). Drawlines at right angles to where cabinet endswill rest. The corners of these lines are theonly points that need to be shimmed up tothe level of the high point. Check level fromfront to back as well as from side to side.When leveling, place a shim to supportcorners of two adjoining cabinets, giving themthe same level (Figure 4).

Figure 4

Front of subbase

Wood shims tolevel basecabinets

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After high and low spots have been handled,ensure that cabinets hang plumb by placing alevel along the vertical lines where cabinetsjoin together and tack shims where needed.(Shims are not always required.) Shims shouldnot stick out below or past the run of cabinets.

You need 41" of height underneath windows andelectrical outlets to fit in your new base cabinetsand countertop comfortably. If you have only 40"plus a fraction, it still works. If you have less than40", talk it over with your Home Depot designer.Draw a level line on the wall 34 1/2" up from thehigh point on the floor. This is the level line ofyour base cabinets (Figure 5).

1”

Base cabinet

51/2”

341/2” 41”

Figure 5

See if your corners are “square.” Placeframing square into the corner. If yoursquare fits snug in the corner and againsteach wall, you’re “in square” (not illustrated). Ifyour square won’t fit into the angle where thewalls meet, or if the square fits into the cornerand one wall “falls away” (Figure 6), you are“out” of square. Tell your Home Depotdesigner if the wall is out of square and howthe wall is bowing (in or out), and he’ll coverthe defect by ordering your countertop cutproperly at that corner, If there is an “L” shaperun of cabinets, he’ll order the miter cut at thecorrect angle. Your countertop will cover thedefect (Figure 6).

s tep 6 –ins ta l la t ion ofwal l cab inetsA soffit or firring is the enclosed sectionwhich extends from the top of the wallcabinets to the ceiling.

Soffits giveextra installationstability, butmany kitchendesigns do notinclude them. In

Figure 6

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Figure 7

Screw securely through the inside of the cabinet at the top, center and bottom.

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a kitchen where youdo not have a soffit,crown moulding is avery stylish addition tothe kitchen. It may beeasily installed withsmall finishing nails.

Make a floor “T” bracefrom scrap lumber,covering the top of the“T” with carpet or heavyfabric (Figure 7). This willhelp you keep cabinets

braced as you position and fasten them to thewall.

START in a corner. Measure from the corner tothe first stud mark and transfer this measurement(allowing for the front overhang and the thicknessof the cabinet wall) to the inside of the cabinet tobe installed in the corner. Mark the next stud, etc.Raise the cabinet in place up to the line on thewall and support with the “T” brace. Being carefulto avoid electrical lines, drill 7/32" holes (top, middleand bottom) through the cabinet and the wall, intothe stud. Using screws furnished, fasten cabinet towall (Figure 8).

Central screws onlyneeded on 42” highwall cabinets

Figure 8

Figure 7

Figure 10

Figure 9

8

When using an alternate anchormethod, use a 1/8" drill bit to drillthrough the cabinet back and into the wall to mark the expansionbolt placement. Then followmanufacturer’s instructions packaged

with the anchor bolts. Make sure the cabinet has beenleveled from side to side and front to back and properlyshimmed (Figure 9). Move the next wall cabinet intoposition and repeat the installation procedure.

Once two cabinets are mounted to the wall, use the two barclamps to clamp the stiles tightlytogether, being careful to line up thebottom horizontal edges. Drill a 3/16"pilot hole through the stile in the firstcabinet (Figure 10) and 1/4" deep intothe stile of the second cabinet. Locatetwo holes, one at the top and one at thebottom about four inches from the cabinettop and bottom and join with # 8x 2 1/2"drywall screws. A little soap on thescrews will help seat them easily. Pull the two stiles tightlytogether and remove the clamps. Continue installing thewall cabinets next to one another in a similar manner.

HINTIf you know where youwant your shelf, positioninterior screws so they willbe hidden by it.

HINTHide screw heads bypositioning behindhinge plates.

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Figure 11

s tep 7 –insta l l basecabinetsMove all base cabinets in place starting with thecorner cabinets to check for fit (Figure 11). Oncethe corner cabinet is positioned properly (leveledfront to back, side to side and plumb, Figure 14),use the stud marks on the wall to locate theposition of the screws for mounting the basecabinets to the wall. Drill a 7/32" hole at the studlocation through the back of the base cabinetapproximately 2" from the top through the3/8"thick back and into the stud. Attach the cabinetto the wall with the screws provided inside eachcabinet. Be sure to use shims under the cabinetbase to bring it up to the previously establishedcabinet level line.

To attach filler strip to the adjoining cabinet, drill3/16" countersunk holes in the vertical stile. Theseshould be top and bottom on the corner cabinetside, located just below the top hinge and abovethe bottom hinge areas and one centered inbetween. Clamp the filler strip in place on thevertical stile. Drill pilot holes

3/4" deep through thecabinet frame into the filler strip (Figure 12).Attach the filler strip with 2 1/2" wood screws(Figure 13).

9

Figure 13

Figure 12

Space between cabinets Space between wall and cabinet

Overhead view

Cabinet doors

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Clamp the corner cabinet and adjoining basecabinet together with the filler strip in placebetween them. Drill 3/16" countersunk holes in thefront frame of the corner cabinet. Drill pilot holesinto filler and attach. Check the level of each cabinet(front to back, across and plumb, Figure 14).

Install the next base cabinet. Using two barclamps, clamp the vertical frame members (stiles)tightly together making sure the horizontal framemembers form a level and straight line. Drill two3/16" holes through the first stile four inches fromthe top and four inches up from the bottom. Drillcompletely through the first stile and 1/4" into thesecond stile. Using #8 x 2 1/2" screws, draw thetwo frames together until snug.

Continue installing base cabinets one next to theother so they are all level and follow the basecabinet level line on the wall.

Figure 14

lazy susan insta l la t ionSet the units flush with the frames of the cabinetson each side. Measure from the cabinet frame tothe wall to make sure you’re using 36" of wallspace in each direction (Figure 15).

Leaving the Lazy Susan unit in place, attach thebase cabinet on either side to the wall studs. Nowattach the Lazy Susan frame to the front frames ofthe two adjacent cabinets.

Figure 15

36”

36”

24”

24”

Cleats for countertop support

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Figure 17

WallCabinet Overhead view

Underside of countertopDrill hole pilot

Left end panel Back panel

1/4” space filler

specialty cabinets installationFor SINK CABINETS, you will need to cut ahole in the bottom or back of the sink basecabinet for plumbing. Then put the cabinet inplace so the plumbing comes through the holeyou’ve cut. When you slide a TALL CABINETinto place, you’ll see you have a mismatch if itadjoins a wall cabinet. You’ll be matching a12" deep wall cabinet against a much deepertall cabinet - and looking at a gap between thetwo. The answer is to use 1/4” space filler. Cutthe filler to length and tack it to the edge offrame on the 12" deep cabinet. Fit the tallcabinet against the filler (Figure 16). The sameapplies to microwave cabinets.

Be sure to follow the installation instructionsprovided by the oven manufacturer. It isimportant to be sure oven weight is supportedevenly on the front and back of your OVENCABINET.

A filler trimmed to 1/4” in thickness or scribemoulding is recommended to conceal the smallgaps between the top of the cabinets and the soffitor ceiling.

When hanging cabinets from the ceiling or soffit,such as peninsula wall cabinets over an island,cabinets should be installed using at least one #8“washer head” screw per every 16 inches of cabinetwidth. These screws should go through 3/16" pilotholes, pre-drilled in the front frames and shouldhave at least 1 1/2" of penetration in solid wood suchas ceiling joists or soffit frames.

step 8 –putting on the countertopIt is best to wait until all the cabinets are secured inplace before ordering your countertop. After cabinetsare installed, measure all surfaces that thecountertop is required to cover. Take thesemeasurements to your local countertopmanufacturer or have him come to your kitchen andtake field measurements of the kitchen. Remember,once you order the top from your own measurements and it does notfit, the problem can become complicated and costly.

Carefully place the countertop on the cabinets andcheck alignment. You will notice each base cabinethas lineal end panel braces. Carefully drill up throughthese braces within the front and back quarter of thebrace length into the bottom frame of the countertop(Figure 17). Be careful to measure this distance andselect the proper length screws. Also, be extremelycareful to drill the proper depth hole into thecountertop. Do not drill through the countertop.

It may be necessary, if you have uneven walls orcorners “out” of square to have anextra piece of laminate called a “scribe” attached tothe countertop by the manufacturer. This may bemarked and then cut to fit the irregularities beforeinstalling the tops.

Tall Cabinet

Figure 16

For height adjustments: Loosen screws 2 on door, adjustdoor up or down and tighten screws.

Easy Reach Hinges - For sideadjustments: Locate theconcealed Phillips head screw2. Turn to desired adjustment.For height adjustments:Loosen screws 1 on hinge plate, adjust door up or downand tighten screws.

For forward or backward movement, adjust Phillips headscrew 3 at the end of hinge arm.

Bi-fold Easy Reach Hinges- For adjusting the gapbetween doors: Loosenscrew 2 on the shortest armof the bi-fold hinge; tighten afteradjustment.

For height adjustments: Loosen screws 2 on hinge plate, adjust door up or down and tighten screws.

For forward or backwardmovement, adjust inner screw3 on the longer arm of thehinge.

Now it’s time to finish your job. Prior toinstalling your hardware, it is necessary to re-install and properly align doors anddrawers. First, make a final check onsquareness by using a level on all horizontaland vertical cabinet surfaces. If any cabinet isout of square, now is the time to correct it.Loosen from the wall and use shims toproperly square the cabinet. Then, reinstalldoors and drawers and get in perfect position toaccept hardware.

If doors do not line up vertically (up anddown) or where they meet (in the middle),adjust hinges, as shown.

For height adjustments: Loosen screw 1 onmounting plate, adjust door up or down andtighten screw.

Cup Hinges - There are several different types of cup hinges onThomasville cabinetry. Adjustment for all isthe same.

For side adjustments: Loosen the screws 1and 2 attaching hinge to theframe plate; tighten when theproper position is achieved.

For height adjustments: Asshown here, simply loosen thescrews 1 and 2 attaching thehinges to the frame and move the door up ordown to the desired position. Oven Cabinet Hinges - For side adjustments:Loosen screw 1 on hinge, adjust the door leftor right and tighten screw. 12

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1

3 12

1

2

1

2

step 9 –door and drawera l ignment

If drawer does not close evenly,manually adjust drawer guidesocket. To correct drawer guidealignment, adjust the drawer guidemember attached from the frontedge of the cabinet to the back bymanually realigning the backsocket. Once realigned, be sure to

check that the drawer guide rollers stay in their trackand operate smoothly.

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step10 –putting on the hardware

If you want to reverse the swing on squaredoors (change from a right hand to a left-handhinge), just remove the door and attach it to theopposite side of the frame. Door can mountupside down. (Certain door styles are notreversible. Check with your dealer.)Now, install all pulls and other hardware.Remember that all hardwood doors aresusceptible to splintering when drilled. Use a sharp 7/32" bit to drill holes from thebackside of the door. Drilling into a wood blockclamped tightly to the face of the door willminimize splintering (Figure 17).A touch-up marker can conceal small instal-lation problems.

Now, install all pulls and other hardware.Remember that all hardwood doors aresusceptible to splintering when drilled. Use a sharp 7/32" bit to drill holes from thebackside of the door. Drilling into a wood blockclamped tightly to the face of the door willminimize splintering (Figure 17). A touch-upmarker can conceal small installation problems.

HINTIn case of scratch, touch-upmaterials are available. Contactyour Home Depot designer fordetails.

Cabinet door faceWood block

Sawing, sanding, or machining wood products can produce wood dust whichcan cause a flammable or explosivehazard.

Wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, eye and skin irritation.Some wood species may causedermatitis and/or respiratory allergiceffects. The International Agency forResearch on Cancer (IARC) hasclassified wood dust as a nasalcarcinogen in humans.

• Avoid dust contact with ignition source.• Sweep or vacuum dust for recovery

or disposal.• Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing

of wood dust in air.• Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.• FIRST AID: If inhaled, move to fresh

air. In case of contact, flush eyes and skin with water. If irritation persists, call a physician.

For additional information, contact yourdealer for a Material Safety Data Sheet(MSDS) or call 1-765-935-2211 torequest a direct mailing.

wood dust caut ion

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c lass i f icat ion of warped doors

Vertical deviation (up or down) from a trueflat plane. Usually associated with length.

BOW

Vertical deviation (up or down) from a trueflat plane. Usually associated with width.

CUP

Vertical deviation (up or down) from a true flatplane. Usually occurs to just a corner or end.

TWISTHorizontal deviation (side to side) from a trueflat plane. Usually associated with length.

CROOK

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warped door policyThomasville cabinets are constructedto strict specifications, includingwood’s moisture content. When themoisture content is constant,expansion and contraction are limited.Too much expansion and contractioncan cause warping. By controlling theamount of humidity during manufac-turing, Thomasville Cabinetry helpsensure a quality product.

If you feel you have a warped door,Thomasville Cabinetry requires that youperform initial testing:

1. Remove the door and decorative surface knobs, pulls and hinges.

2. Place the door on a flat surface and alternately press on the opposite corners to see if the door “racks” or pulls away from the surface.

3. If you observe a gap between the door and flat surface, measure the distance to determine the amount of warpage.

A door must be warped at least 1/4" before it can be considered for replacement. To ordera replacement, contact your Home Depot designer. If warping is less than 1/4", allow a complete heating and cooling cycle (summer to winter) to let the door reach equilibrium. Magnetic catches or roller catches will often correct minor problems.

4. If the door does not pull away from the flat surface, it is not warped. Incorrectly installed cabinets (not level or out of plumb), can make doors appear warped. Check installation.

care and c leaning

t rouble shoot ing

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CONDITION

Double doors oncabinet or basedo not line up.

Door is not flushwith cabinet faceframe at eithertop or bottom.

Drawer face doesnot fit flush withcabinet.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

1. Cabinet not setlevel and square(plumb) or cabinet isin a twist (racked).

1. Hinge twisted. Cabinet racked.2. Door warped due toinsufficient humidity.

1. Drawer guide out ofalignment.

REMEDY

1. Loosen screws in wall and use shims to make cabinet plumb.2. Loosen hinge* screws oncabinet frame and adjustalignment. Re-tighten screws toframe.

1. Make sure cabinet is plumb and level. Then adjust hinge*.2. Refer to warped door policyon previous page.

1. Before countertops areinstalled, adjust the guide bysliding it right or left in the backbracket. Guides must be parallel.

*See Step 9-Door and Drawer Alignment for details

The fine “furniture” finish of ThomasvilleCabinetry is designed to withstand hardusage. All wood and laminate surfacesmay be cleaned with a soft clothmoistened with pure soap suds (notdetergent) then wiped dry with anothersoft cloth.

Once or twice a year, after cleaning, alight coat of self-cleaning wax may beapplied to laminate surfaces for addedprotection. For wood surfaces, a lightcoat of furniture polish is

recommended. Take extra care on thebottom edge of base cabinets and basecabinet doors where moisture oftencollects.

Do not use detergents, soap pads, steelwool or other harsh abrasive material onyour Thomasville Cabinetry.

For complete guidelines refer toThomasville’s website,www.thomasvillecabinetry.com, for

Thomasville Cabinetry Care.

As a do-it-yourselfer, you have assumed the role of the contractor. In assuming this role, thereare certain responsibilities that could become necessary to “finish” the job once installed.