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THIS IS A PUBLIC INFORMATIONOFFICE PROJECT
OF THE
U.S.S. DES MOINES
RoDo Gallo
DoA. PeralaB.L. Brewster
Go Wilson
CAPT. E.E. GRIMMCOMMANDINGOFFICER
CDR. E. H. 1-'JINSLOWEXECUTIVE OFFICER
M.C. Miller LTJG, USNPublic Information Officer
STAFF
PoJo Cunningham
PHOTO LABo
D. MajuaaS.G. Roberts
PRINT SHOP
L.Jo Doyle RoJo Mokrzycki
· .'TABLE OF CONTENTS
Cote dt Azur ••••••••••••••••••••••••••Cannes •••••• 0 •••••• 0 •••••• 0 ••••••••••
Touring the city •••••••••••••••••••••Churches, Golfe Juan •••••••••••••••••Antibes - Juan Les Pins •••••.•••••••••The Arts, Vallauris •••••••••••••••••••Grasse •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Photograph of the Maritime Museum.o •••
The Interior.oo •••••••• o ••••••• o ••• o ••
Nice ••••.••• 0 0 •••• "0 ••••••• 0 •• 0 ••••••••
Photographs of Nice••••••••••••••••.•••Map ••• 0 0 ••• 0 •••••••••••••••• ' •••••••••
Place Garba1di, Churches ••••••••••••••Christain Science Church, and photo•••Energetic City ••••••••••••••••••••••~Photographs of Nice •••••••••••••••••••The Carnival .o.~o ••••••••••••••• o ••••
Municipal Casino ••••••••••••••••••••••Restaurants ••••••••••••~~•••••••••~••Restaurants continued.~~~~•••••••••••~Villefranche •••••0 ••••• 0 •••••••••••••
Photo of the"02 level" ••·••••••••••0.Corniches. 0 0.00 •••••••• 0,00-00 ••••••••••
S:porls .00.000.0 ••• ·0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0'0000. 0 ••• 0'.
Photo of Monte Carlo ••••00 •••••••••••
Monaco .~.ooo •• ooooo.~ ••••••• o•••••• o.
Photo of ViUefranche ••oo •••••••••••••
Page 1Page 2Page 3Page 4Page 5Page 6Page 7Page BPage 9
Page 10Page 11
Page 12-13PWSe 14Page 15Page 16Page 17Page 1BPage 19Page 20Page 21Page 22Page 23Page 24Page 25Page 26Page 27Page 2B
eo t:e J, dl-zU'l,TheRiviera-Cote d' Azur stretches along the Med
iterranean at the foot of the last outcrops of theAlpine chaf.n, Thanks to its southern situation,the proximity.of the sea,the full southern exposureand, above.all, to the- screen of high mountainsthat protects it from the cold Continental winds,it enjoys 'an exceptionally high temperature all_through the winter.
To take Beaulieu.-near Nice, as ari exampl.ej therehave been but four days of - frost in fifteen years 0.This privileged situation meansthat the slops arecove!'ed with semi-tropicalvegetatiori; -orange aridjaloe, cactus arid eucalyptus, rose-laurel, bougain~.viLl.eaand mimosaall florish there. Ajourney ofa single hour away from the palms and _lemon-treesof the coast takes one to the nearby- Alpine peaksfor coolness in the summer or snow-spots in thewint-er.TheRiviera--Cote d'Azur does share fully
in the artistic heritage of the Provenceo SmallVillages 'of narrow, winding . lanes cling to -sharppeaks arid add immeasurablyto -the attractions of anatually picturesque landscape. In their char-aot-eristic ROrrJil.nesquechapels, the works-of -a remarloable school of painters, greatly influenced by theRenaf.esance , -whosefinest exponarrtWasLouis Brea,are to be adrnired.With so many attractive natural features allied
to the variety and the quality of the entertainmentoffered and to the multitude of _hotels-and villas;it, is small wonderthat it draws visitors of every,class and conditiori from allover the world in summer and winte!' alikec
Truly, then, this is the playground of the world.The Riviera, the wonderful.
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Can rie s."City of Flowers and Smart Sports" is the pub
licity slogan, but this Ls not enough to say of atown which is world-renowned for its luxury, goodtaste and the high quality of ~he amusements itoffers to its guests.
Founded and developed as a winter-resort, Canneshas been the subject of a miracle whereby with 'noloss of elegance, the town has been ad.m:l.rablyadapted as a summer playground for young and old,millionaires and t.our-Lst.s,
No more attractive place could be chosen for anenjoyable holiday., The Gulf of La Napoule indentsthe' coast line, and the Lerins Islands break thecustomary sweep of seas out to the horizon. Cannesis thoroughly up to date, its hotels and villasproviding every ,comfort , and its fine casinosalmOst every kind'of entertainment.
The name Cannes, pronounced "cahns," derives itsname from the long _reedswhicp formerly g:r:ewi"1.themarshy ground, around the ,harbor. Under the domination of Rome for centuries, Cannes fell to theSaracens during the 700's and again during the <)00'sA•.D. In the tenth century, the city's allegianceswitched to the Abbots of Lerin's, monks who camefrom the 'Islesde Leriris,just off shore, .wherethey occupied a _fifth century monastary. (Inthe citadel'on another 01' these islarids, the' Manwith the Iron Mask was confined from l6S7 to l69S.)
"La Croisette", the mile-en-a-hal.r lorig waterfront promenade, derives its 'appel' from the CrOsswhich in early days was a Mecca for pilgrims at theend of the Croisetts. On the Boulevard 'areto befounQ the Majestic, Martines and Carlton Ho~els;the latter with 700 rooms. Many of the great Parisnames in fashion have branch shops here0 TheInternational Film F~stival is held each year inthe Festival Palace, constructed in 1949, .with 'aseating capacity of 16,000. •
TOURING THE CITY
MONASTERY OF SAINT HONORAT, This is the place whereSaint Patrick did a great deal of his work andstudy.
FORT OF ST. MARGUERITE ISLAND - Thefort is the same orementioned in Alexader Dumas IS book"The Man in theIron Mask".
MUSEUM OF ANCIENTMEDITERRANEAN CIVlLATIONS, Compartitively new museumit does have manyoutstanding relicsof Mediterraneancivilization.
3
The church of the community of Golfe Juan is St.Peter's (R.C.) with a seminary located back in thefoothills. An English-American church, ChurchHouse, Holy Trinity, Rue du Canada, Cannes, is theonly Protestant church in the area. There ~,salsoa Mormon Church of Jesus Christ of Latter DaySaints on Rue de Mer-c.l.e , '
There are numerous Catholic Churches easily identified within walking distance of the yacht basinin Golfe Juan. A prominent church here in Cannes,is Norte Dame de Bon Voyage, Square Marimee.
On Boulevard Alexandre, III is located a GreekOrthodox Church, Saint Michel.
:Jua nGolfe~uan is a small and typically Mediterranean
fishing port which has so well adapted itselfto newconditions that it is hard to 'saywhether the t.our=ists live here like fishermen or the fishermenlike tourists.
Both classes frequent the same picturesque barsand each fishing boat that pulls out for the nighton the sea carries a number of summer visitors whopay for their passage by standing drinks of wineand sandwiches all around.Some of the alleys are richly perfumed with the
scent of garlic, pastis and boui11abaisee, these,the sheltered port and the beach make up all GolfeJuan When the peace of a quiet life is only alittle broken if sailors on leave liven things' upon days when the fleet is anchored.
In 1815, on his return from the Island of Elba,Napoleon landed at Golfe-Juan; after resting at thelocal inn, he set off for Paris along·the 1E-~hwa~which have now become the famed route Napoleon.'Very few of the motorists who use it know that it
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4
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ends at Go1fe-Juan and at the exact spot where General Cambronne, the first of the party to disembarkhere set foot on French soil.,With its excellent sandy beaches and inviting
lllght clu?s a~o~g the ~terfront, one can hardlysay that his VlSlt to thls quaint but excf,ting seatown was not enjoyable.
The beauty of the Riviera approaches perfectionaround the famous Cap D' Antibes. The coast islike a garden whose tropical plants suggest 'theEast. It is here that so many wealthy patrons ofthe Riviera have built their villas.
The old town of Antibes was, it 'seems, foundedby Greek colonists about 2000 years ago or more.In any case the fortifications were erected byVauban in the 17th century. '
The outline of the town is dominated by the mass?f the Grimaldi Castle whose foundations merge uplnto the ramparts and the jumble of low houses in
'which the fishermen live. In'1948 the 'ChateauGrimaldi',becamethe first "Picasso Museum" to beopened, for in that year 'theartist decided tole~ve in the castle the paintings and drawingswhich he had executed in the majestic great hallon the second storey whose windows open onto thesea.
The worK done by Pablo Picasso at Antibes markssuch an epoch in his art and life that people arenow speaking'of the "yellow epoch" just as they;do of the'''blueepoch" of the cubist painting.
About a mile down the road from Antibes is Juanles-Pins. With its excellent sandy beaches, thissmall village is one of the most up-to-date summerresorts of the district. A fine casino here addsto the luxurious color of the area and its rusticyet unforgetable buildings and houses entice theimaginations,of its visitors.
The "Vieux .Colombiers", a highly well - knownlocal night club, has presented such outstandingtalent as Bing Crosby, Ethel Smith and has beenpatronized by such well, known theatrical names asBrigette Bardot, Jackie Gleason and many more.
Practically all of the nautical sports are played along here and one could hardly boast.of not.noticing some of the finery in fashion that doesadourn the sandy 'Plages'.
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A little .zigzagroad leads up 'gentle'slopes fromCannes to the perfume center of France, Grasse.•
A good distance from Cannes in the grand mount,ain scenery of' the Alpes Maritimes, Grasse isscattered in the tangle of narrow and windingsteep streets. Here are the perfume distille:ries,which gather their raw material from the fields of,numerous flowers from ali over the country that'stands at the foot of the hills.
GRIMALDI MUSEUM - Gallo Roman antiques. Rich col-tlection'of inscriptions from the Alpes-Maritimes.Relics of NapoleonIs return from the LsLand ofElba~ Various documentary exhibits. Antibes pri":"matives and works 'of local contemporary painters.Not long since Picasso donated an important seriesof his recent works, done in the neighborhood, abequest of universal interest. Paintings, drawings, engravings, ceramics. The museum is openevery day except Mondays, ,from1000 to dusk.
'One of the most picturesque cities in thecountry of Provence, Grasse has changed littlesince the lSth century. Named after Admiral deGrasse who distinguished himself in the AmericanRevolutionary War of 1776, where he helped defeatthe British at the battle of Yorktown~ He wascaptured by the British, died in prison, 'and waslater brought back to la Bar, near Grasse, wherehe wa.Sburied.
Vallauris is a curious little place With,kilnchimnies that mak~ it look like an old fortress,or, indeed, as the inhabitants do not hesitate tosilywith their Southern imagination, like Mont..:..Saint-Michel. But the famed omelette of the MerePoulard .,..which by the way is one of the attractions of the Norman sanctuary - is represented atVallauris by charming but not edible wares--thefamous earthenware which is on sale at every corner.
The pottery industry of Vallauris is one of itschief claims to renown. During the last ha.lfcentury a whole industry of art cet-ann.cs has comeinto being, and Vallauris pot.r.er-i.es have won for,themselves an enviable reputation in France andabroad.
It would be hard for one to imagine a mote fascinating industry than that of the distilling of'the precious essences from these sweet smellingmasses of flowers. This process is a long anddelicate one, and up to 10 tons of roses are needed to produce only two pounds of essence. Some10,000 tons of preciou;3and fragrant material wereprocessed here before the war. No wonder thatsuch concentrated fragrance sells at prices equalto that of gold. From Grasse concentrates areshipped, often by air, to perfume manufacturesallover the world.
7
BEACH IN NICE
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JARDIN DE ALBERT8
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[/nte'l,io'L
A unsurpassed network of roads up the valleysand the banks of the torrents, climbs the hills,and encircles the height's of the first Alpinemountains.
Here we find, a few miles from the fashionable,coastal resorts, mountain villages and rustic hamlets, arid plateaus and fertile uplands, forests,meadows; rivers full of fish, picturesque inns andscenery, superb or just charmingo
As you wonder about this seemingly unbelievableland of beauty and art, you will find, on thethreshold of back-country, a number of villages,as charming as Grasse, Vence 01' Saint Paul. Thehigh valleys of the Var region, Tinee, -of theVesubie or of the Roya; enclosed by mountains thatare, now austere and forbidding and now green andgayo
The scenerychanges at every turn of· the road,at every tunnel's outleto You have Savoy, theTryol or the Engadine there before you and twohours by car from the Croisette or the tpromenadede Angles.t
It is thus easy to appreciate the marvelousvariety of this background of the Rivi.er-as •
-I9
cN[JCE.Nice, capital of the FrenGh Riviera, is truly
deserving of its title, "Nice the Beautiful". Itrests like a priceless jewel in its setting betwee~ mountain splendor and Mediterranean tranquilityo
This combi.nat.Lon of gaiety and tranquility hasattracted both fun lovers and vacationist's fromallover the world. The atmosphere produced oneof France's great schools of primitive butmos'trenowned painters0 Called the Nicois Primitives, the group of painters was dominated byLouis Brea and spanned the last half of the fifteenth century through the first half of the sixteentho
Nice was founded in 350 B.Co and Roman ruinsare still to be seen in the area. The harmony anddeLf.ght.f'u'lness of Nice is restful despite thefact it has a population of over 250,0000
Among the shadowed street slopes of the VIELLEVILLE (the Old Town) and in the newer parts of thecity, there are certain landmarks about the cityof Nice that have followed its history since thebeginning.
THE PROMENADE DE ANGALIS - the four miles ofboulevard along the sea where some of the mostbeautiful villas, the most luxurious hotels andrestaurants of the world can be found.
PLACE'MASSENA named after Marshal AndreMassena, one of Napoleon's great generals who wasborn in Nice, is the city's main square. The Municipal Casino faces the square and nearby are theAlbert 1st Gardens and the autocar st~tions.
AVENUE DE LA VICTOIRE - The wide, tree-linedavenue which leads into the Place Massena has someof , the lovliest shops and department stores top1.easethe purse of any visitor. •
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A wreath of flowersand a lone sailorstand at the-baseof the SymbolicMonument erectedto FREE FRANCE during 1"'orldWar II.
Even the traditional "horseand buggy" are to be foundin Nice. This one standsacross from the Ruhl Hotelnear the Promenade.
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NICECENTRE
o 100 200 30oMitr'es
PLACE GARIBALDI ~ in the Vieille-Ville area, -wasbuilt in 1756 and it was in this 'square on March'20, 1796 that Napoleon reviewed his troops beforeembarking on his own Italian campaign. Near thePlace Garibaldi is Rue Bonaparte. As an artilleryofficer -Napoleon lived on this street as housenumber 6.
CATHEDRAL SAINTE REPARATE - north and slightlyeast of the ~lower market and in the Vieille-VilleThe catheraal dates from the 17th century and isthe principal church of Nice.
Not far from the American Consulate is the PLACEGRIMALDI, the site of the birthplace of GeneralBilly Mitchell, the American Army officer who isoften called "father" of the American Air Force.
Interesting to all art lovers would certainly bethe MUSEUM JULES CHERET, along the Avenue des Baumetgreat.
North of Cimiez and west of the Boulevard Pas-.teur, is the MONASTERY GARDENS, the old 17th century monastery with its restful gardens in adelightful setting.
To prQd~ce an information booklet on one of themost beautifully situated and erected city's ofthe world; without mentioning its churches wouldtruly be incomplete.
CATHOLIC - Notre Dame Cathedral, located at de laVictoireo Masses are held from 0600 to
1200 hours. High Mass at 1000. On Sunday thereis also a Mass at 1830.EPISCOPAL - American Church (Church of the Holy
Spirit), is located at 21, Victor Hugo.Morning seFVice at 1100. Holy Communion also at1100 each first Sunday of the month.JEWISH - Synagogue at 9 Rue Gustave Deloye (oppo
site Lafayette stores).Fridays at 1815hours. Prayer books in English are available•
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CHRISTIAN SCIENCE - First Church of Christ,'Scientist. 7, Rue Gallean, near
Place Sasserno. Sunday, in English, at 1100. Wednesday, in English at 1700 hours.
RUSSIAN CATHEDRAL. Situated off the BoulevardCambetta in the northwest of Nice, this architectural gem with richmarbels, fescoes, pictures, tapestries and,mosaics was built in 1912to the memory of Twarwitch Nicholas Alexandrowitch,who died in Nice in1865.
CATHEDRALE DE MONACO
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There are many attractions in Nice and dependingon your type of enjoyment and mood you may want touncover a great deal of -them. There's the operafor instance. The Municipal Theater in Rue' St..Francois-de-Paul, f'acadedwith beautiful ornamentsof allegorical sculptures and marble columns,Grand operas, Comic operas and Ballets are included in the repertory. .DUring the Carnival the famous masked balls are given here.
There are movies galore in Nice also. A different treat is to visit one of the many French speaking theaters, know the language or not, and sitthrough one of the movies. For those who muchmore prefer the English speaking shows, there'sthe Cinema Eduard VII located at S, Rue MarechalJoffre. Continuous performances from 1430 to 2400.These pictures range from second- rate· Englishmovies to second and third Americano
Nice-has fashioned itself for the enjoyment ofits many yearly visitors. They can come here foran art show at the Museum Jules Cheret, a strollthrough many of the floral gardens, an evening atthe opera or perhaps even bath in the sun alongthe city's beautifully stoned t plage ",
This is truly a city of gay and enjoyable times.Events'and festivals of all kinds are celebratedthroughout the year. From -Januar-yto DecemberNice favors the color and gaeity of .parades tofire·works displays. The people are always' contented and happy" the city always gay. This isNice. 'Nissa La bella.' •
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MARITIME MUSEUM OF MONTE CARLO
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THE CARNIVAL FEASTS - Here, for sure,are the greatevents of the season. If possible one should seethem once, for the sight is so curious that it cannot be forgotten. The hotels are crowded, theyhave no fixed prices0 It .is the same with thecarriages. A great animation reigns in thestreets. Squares and avenues are beautifully decorated and illuminated. The Pl. Massena where thestands and the place of His Majesty Carnival aresituated is the center of animation. Here is afrenzied crowd in carnival costumes to protect theclothing, and the conrebtd and the dust flyingeverywhere.
TijE _CARNIVAL
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THE MUNICIPAL CASIONO - On the east of PL, Ma.saenais a large building, the Casion, built on the PailIon, between the Avo Felix-Faure and Blvd. MacMahon0 The front restored in 1904, is opposite tothe Public Gardeno The casino is open from thelast of November to the end of MayoMUNICIPAL LIBRARY - containing some 60,000 vol~esand some-122 manuscripts, some of which being remardable, and a few Roman antiquitieso The library is open on weeks days from 1900 to 1200 andfrom 1400 to 1630. In summer from 1430 to 1730 •Closed on Sundays, holidays and during the monthof Augusto
Dining on the Ri~iera can lead to rapid deple-\ tion of your twice-a-month wage. Some of the 'best
food in the world is to be had here, if you arewilling to pay the price. But, as everywhere inFrance, excellent meals are available in lesspr tentious restaurants and cafes for very reasona Le prLces ,
The Cote d' Azur is not famous for its finewines like the more temperate zones of France,but there is a fine light "vine du pays" thatmeans local wine, called Camp Romain, and thetiney hilltop village of Gaud has a small fineharvest of wine named after the villageo Don'tforget that there is a famous liqueur made in thecountry around Marseilles, they call it "pastis"down thereo It has a mean kick although itonly tastes of licorice, but the Mediterraneandrinker is a hearty man.
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MENUS A LA CARTE· UNIQUEME;NT (Menu from the cardonly
oAMIRAL (L') - 2, Rue Meyerbeer ••••Telephone 889.5.
MENQS A PARTIR DE 1,000 FRANCE (Menu, from 1,000francs (10 ~.F.)
ADOLPHE - 6~ p1.Charles-Felix (Veiux Nj_ce)•••Telephone••••••574.10
MENUS A PAR'l'IRDE 600 FRS·ET A LA CARTE (Menu anda set dirmer for 600 frar.cs(6NoF 0) ','
A _LA CARTE means "from the card" and is not a menu)AUX GOURMENTS - 12, Rue Dante ••• Telephone 853.61CAl~TON (LE) - 15, Rue'Alex. Mari.Telephone 578.59CHEZ LES PECHETJRS- '18, Quai des Docks - Le Por-t,',telephone ••.••••559.61'COURONNE (LA) ex-0tern. - 4, Rue de France•••••••o
telephone .c•••• 801.57FORUM (du) - 12, Blvd. Gambetta~~~Telephone 893~8lLE MISTRAL ..,7, Blvd. Carnot.~•••~Telephone 838.43LE ROCHER - 68, Rue de France 0. ••• Telephone 852~13MANOIR NORMAND'- 32, Rue de France••••.••••••••••••telephone •••••842~59PAM-PAM (de Paris), - 14, Av. Felix-Faure•••••••••telephone••542.86.(just like Hamburger' Heaven)"••••'J'ER$CM-IDS(le) - 5; Rue Hotel-de~Ville '(VieuX -Nice). Te;:Lephone.~••••••56l.08••••••o ••••••••••••
POTINIERE (LA) ~ 3, Prom. Des-Anglais•••••••••••••telephone •••.. 0879.270 0 0 " .• ., 0 f) 0- e· ••• 0 0 0 ••••• 0 0 • 0 0 ••
REGENCE (LA) - 5, Rue Deloye . Tele_phone55309'6SAIt~~MORITZ - 5, Rue Du Congres••Telephone 854~90TAVERNE ALSACIElii'NE- 4, Av. des Phodeens••0 •••••••
telephone ••••••544.38AU PETIT GOURMET - 6, Rue St-Siag:re••••••0 ••••••
telephone 00 •••• 574.89
BONNE AUBERGE (LA) - 9, Rue Chauyain•••••••.•..••••••telephone•••••••516.94CANTON - 20, Rue de Russie•••o ••••• o •••••••••••••••
telephone•••••••851.12CAVE NICOISE - 5, RUe Massena.o •••••••••••••••••••
telephone•••••••811.44EDOUARD VII - 26, Rue d' Angleterre •••••••••••••••telephone •••~••••895.80LA PETITE AUBERGE - 25, Rue Paganinioo•••••_•••~••LE'CHANTILLY - 12 Rue Grimaldi•••o ••••••• ~ ••••••••
.MAXIM ,S (Snack-Bar) -.Avenue des Phoceens•••••'0 •••
MIDE '(du) - 16, Rue Alsace-Lorraine••••••••••••••0
PALAIS PRINCIER 21
I Comfortably nestled along the slopes of a harborwhich once sheltered Barbary pirates and tradesmenof the 16th century sailing .days , Villefranchepresents itself not only as a pleasant and quietresort for vacationing tourists, but as a place ofbeauty with a scent of excitement and wonderment,touched with the color of the small fishing housesand villas that line .itsshoreso
Small shops scattered throughout the upper andlower sector invite the buyer to eye some of thefinest in sea coast wares; from pottery and tapestries to colorful sea shells.
Every summer, tourists converge on this resortand see the enjoyment that it offerso Sailingand swimming are but favorites.
This ancient Ville1"ranche assumes a somewhat un.usual aspect, but perhaps one it can take in its&tride~ for it has played host to the sailors ofthe.VlOrld since. the S.a:racensfirst came here.Their W]uene~e. is.s,till'to be seen in the RueObscure 0.1!. the old t_o.;wn"a tunnel recalling thecQ~ere:.d:s'bre,et.sof'N:o.rth!.fric·ansouks., A 16thcentury: :t'CQrtr,e~as.,.still used by the Chaeseur'sA1l.pins· (the Blue Devils) dominates the waterfront,whil.Et.;t>a.b.o.:v:.e, the villas of the will-to-do lookout 0M.erthe red tiled roof:')of the closely packedol_d'town.,
B.ATTLE OF FLOWERS
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"02" ,I.....EVEL'
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Co 'triiah e1,
The parallel coast-roads, or corniches, ~ichrun from Nice to the Italian frontier might becalled the eighth wonder of the worldo At analtitude varying from about 1500 to 1700 feetabove sea-level one can admire a superb view from'thealps on the one side, to the sea on the other.and in fine weather, as far as distant Corsice.The corniche's run along the coast at a heightthat allows us to take in all details of the,landscape, We round a viaduct and t.here we see beforeQS the extraordinary village of Eze, a jumble 'ofhouses perched on a rocky peak 1300 feet above thesurface of the Mediterranean. Located here is oneof the best restaurants to be found on the AzureCoast; LA CHEVRE D'OR - very expensive but superbfood, try the hot HORS D' OEUVRES.
CAP FERRAT, on the eastern side of VillefrancheHarbour, is wider than the Cap d' Antibes and itshelters also a number of lUXQrious villas sur~rounded by gardens and parks. The British authorSomerset Maugham spends most of the year in his"Villa Maur-esque" where he writes a little andspends most of his time in his gardens with hiscollection of Impressionist paintings. In oneflowery corner Cap Ferrat shelters a most curiousand charming museum the MUSSEE ILE DE FRANCE leftto the Institute of France by Madame BeatriceEphrussio Each piece of panelling, each lock andalmost each"nail of this dwelling is in itself awork of art~ Fine furniture, Gobelins tapestries,paintings by Boucher and Fragonard were -broughttogether in a palace surrounded by flowers, greenery and mountainso The whole assemblage is ofinestimable worth and is a veritable treasury oftaste, harmony and beauty.
BEAULIEU is an exclusive resort with the ¢~.destand warmest climate of all the coast. Even banana~ripen sheltered in nooks. After Beaulieu comes Eze'Plage and Cap d' Ail and then a red and whitefrontier post indicates the border between Franceand the Principality of Monaco.
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On f the advantages ~f the Riviera is theoppo~~ty the coast offers to i~dulge in a gre~tvariet of sports. You can go up lnto t~e mount~lnregion~ of Valberg 120 kilometers from Nlce to fllldsuperb skiing in the perpetual snows, and yo~ canreturn to the coast for a dip in the warm. Medl~er~ranean before dinner. You won't find thlS type 0
combination anywhere else in the world.
Twelve miles beyond Valberg lies the plateauur here there isof Auron with its southern expoS e; .. t'
t lfth century chapel with curious prlffillvea we. it is worth a visit if you can take yourf:esdcooef~'themountains or your skiso At Piera Caverm.n '. good hotels41 kilometers from Nice, there are many. rt
t This is a center for Wlnter spa sand amusemen s, . d theand has a superb view of the Medlterranean anisland of Corsica besides.
If your're horse - minded and not automobilet with its fineminded Cannes is the place 0 go, .
polo g~oundS at Mandelieu. As for golf an~ ~enn~~there is hardly a t<?wnalong the coast tha asn.itscourts or its links.
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There is of'course no difficulty involved inentering Monaco, but the visitor may experiencesome reluctance on his part in getting out. Sostrong is the attraction of a town where everythingis done to make tourists and travellers happy andsatisfiedo
There are wonderfully well-kept gardens, comfortable hotels, terraces qverlooking the sea, amarvelous oceangraphic museum, an opera-house, atwhich somtlof the best known operatic stars appeareach year, theaters, sports and· games at MonteCarlo beach; there are the Sporting-Club and theSporting d'Ete,the Rock and the Prince's Palace andof course the world known casino,the temple of gamb~ing where penny-in-the-slotmachines welcome youas you go in. The Casino was opened by EdmondBlanc in the middle of the last centur-y, A wit ofthe time sang "Whether you play red or black it'salways white (Blanc) that wins." But there havebeen plenty of lucky winners. The story is told ofa man and his wife who arrived with a new chauffeuras he had the evening off~ the chauffeur made hisway to' the Casino and risked 100 francs on a-fullnumber, and won, put the lot on another number, wonagain, changed tables and left with a fortune afteronly two and a half hours of play. Then he wentback to the hotel and wrote to his employer that hewas leaving to open a garage in Nice. (The odds onthe Roulette table are 36 to 1).
Monte Carlo is only a district of Monaco whichis a commune occupying all the area of the littlestate of about 375 acres entirely surrounded on theland-side by French territory.
The enchanted Riviera coast ends at Menton,ut we have not seen all the Cote D' Azure. There
is the back country, and many people will stillt 1 you that they prefer it even to the sunny,
nutiful coast which we have now too hastilynlJod.
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