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SWEET URGES

modern, a perfect setting for handmade chocolates with a contemporary

edge. Your eyes are immediately drawn to rows of tiny, ganache-� lled,

molded chocolates decorated with touches of color, a dusting of spice

or a sprinkling of pulverized nuts to give clues to the � avors enclosed

within. Peperoncino, mint, hazelnut and orange are all delectable, but the

ganache � avored with Barolo Chinato was swoon-worthy.

Then I tasted the cremini al sale, understated, hand-cut squares of

soft chocolate blended with hazelnut paste, extra-virgin olive oil and sea

salt. I almost lost consciousness. These are the yardstick by which all

salty sweets should be measured - a subtle, nuanced layering of � avors

contained in a creamy, soft texture, dissolving just slowly enough to meld

into something delicate and exquisite.

Time for a leisurely stroll to Piazza San Carlo, one of Torino’s grandest

public spaces, outlined with wide, graceful portico-covered sidewalks. My

second cappuccino was at the gloriously gilded Caffé San Carlo, which

dates back to 1822. Under the sky-high, domed ceiling with red velvet

banquets and ornately carved mirrors, my creamy coffee is presented

in the local tradition: with a nip of bubbly water in an elegant little glass

alongside. I make a mental note to indulge myself later with another local

tradition, the bicerin, a layered drink of espresso, warm, melted chocolate

and foamy cream. The iconic treat is served around town, but was

invented at one of Torino’s other grand-dame caffés, Al Bicerin, where the

original and closely guarded recipe still resides.

Through the doorway I can see my next stop on the other side of the

piazza, Confetteria Stratta, a must for sampling handmade hard candies,

tiny fruit jellies and pastel-wrapped caramels, lined up under glass like

glittering jewels. The mirrored shelves are lined with a colorful array of

boxes made of linen and satin ribbon. Choose your size and color and

It is a bold suggestion. On your next trip to Italy, take a detour from

the Rome-Florence-Venice triangle and make room for a day in Torino,

one of the truly great, grand cities of Europe. More than just an ex-

Olympic town, Torino is full of Old-World elegance, grand cafes, stunning

architecture and lively nightlife. Missing are the chaotic unpredictability of

Rome and oppressive tourist crush that dominates Florence and Venice.

Instead, you’ll � nd wide, stroll-able streets and vast public squares

echoing the grandeur of the House of Savoy.

And then there’s the food. Torino is a one-stop showcase for

Piedmont’s treasure of gastronomic delights; truf� es, cheese, fresh pasta

and Italy’s � nest wines are literally around every corner. The city is so

dense with specialty shops, restaurants and caffés, you can explore it with

laser-like focus. My quick overnighter became a quest to indulge in some

of Torino’s � nest sweets.

If you are already spending time in Italy, Torino is best reached using one

of the many low-cost European airlines. My 7:00 a.m. � ight from Rome

rang in at a mere €34 and had me in the center of town by 9:30 for my

� rst stop, a sweet breakfast at Pasticceria Gertosio This 100-plus-year-old

pastry shop has the frothiest cappuccino and the best selection of buttery,

sugar-topped brioche to start the day. While you sip, gaze at the stacked,

foil-wrapped loaves of their signature gianduja, the blend of hazelnuts and

chocolate that is the granddaddy of Piemontese sweets. Gertosio takes

the classic combination a step further with their house specialty, Torta

Sabauda, a soft, rich cake made with hazelnuts, gianduja and dark cocoa,

enrobed in cloak of dark chocolate.

Forti� ed with just enough caffeine and sugar, I ventured down Via

Lagrange to the nearby boutique of “il maestro di cioccolato,” Guido

Gubino. His elegant, wood-paneled shop is both traditional and

Torino is the place to go. Article and photography

by Gina DePalma

Opposite Page: Neo-Classic and Boroque

architecture of Torino

Above: Sugary brioche and creamy cappuccino

for breakfast at Pasticceria Gertosio

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then have it � lled with your favorite assortment, but be sure to get a small

bag of jellies for the way home.

A quest for all things sweet needs a sidestep or two, and it is impossible

to be surrounded by so much of Torino’s history without dipping in a toe.

Another easy walk brings you to Piazza Castello; on the north side of the

square sits Palazzo Reale, the imperial palace of the Savoy dynasty. After

wandering the staircases and courtyards of the palace complex in virtual

solitude, I stole a moment in the Church of San Lorenzo, a Baroque gem

tucked in the side corner of the piazza, with captivating details and a

stunning criss-crossed ceiling.

For lunch I headed to one of my favorite Torino restaurants, La Badessa,

which means “The Abbess.” The décor is quirky and ecclesiastical, with

dramatic candelabras and statues of cloaked clergy, but the menu is � lled

with deeply authentic Piemontese cuisine. My lunch mate and I feasted on

carpaccio of veal with fonduta, sformato of salt-cod and ceci, veal-stuffed

agnolotti del plin sauced with roasted, meaty juices, and handmade

macheroni with a rich ragu of beef and liver. The ending was another

classic Torino dessert – a simple slice of moist cake made with prized

Piemontese hazelnuts.

The best way to walk off a memorable lunch is to head over to the Mole

Antonelliana, the city’s most iconic and beloved landmark. Originally

conceived as a synagogue in 1848, it now houses the National Museum

of Cinema, � lled with room after room of interactive exhibits that bring the

history of Italian � lm to life. A ride to the top of the Mole’s four-faced dome

in a glass elevator is a don’t-miss attraction, offering a splendid view of the

city from the river to the Alps.

Late afternoons in Italy mean gelato, and my choice is to visit Torino’s

hometown gelato sensation, Grom. This is modern, artisanal gelato

made with the sensibility of a restaurant, committed to using the highest

quality ingredients, farm-produced and organic when possible, with no

emulsi� ers, thickeners or additives. What began as a single gelateria in

Torino spread throughout Italy and beyond, to Paris, New York and Tokyo.

The line that snakes around the corner of Piazza Paleocapa tells me that

Grom remains a sensation in its hometown. My favorite combination is

milky, creamy � or di latte and sweet-tart limone, a perfectly refreshing

palate-cleanser.

Italians never seem to eat gelato without strolling, and my � nal walk

in the setting sun was to Peyrano. This family-operated pasticceria is

renowned for their work with chocolate, especially for their gianduiotti, the

tiny, foil-wrapped bites of gianduja bought by the handful or bagful. But

I came for the cookies. Ask for an assortment of biscotti and pasticini,

and you’ll rewarded with a foil tray of crispy, crumbly, buttery, jam-� lled

and chocolate-covered wonders, each one a masterpiece of � avor and

texture. Carefully arranged, wrapped and tied with their signature green

satin ribbon, they are without question the best cookies in the world, and

for me, my favorite take-away from Torino.

Sweet stops in Torino, and some stops along the way:

Gertosio, Via Lagrange 34/H; Guido Gobino, Via Lagrange 1; Caffé San

Carlo, Piazza San Carlo, 156; Caffé Al Bicerin, Piazza della Consolata,

5; Confetteria Stratta, Piazza San Carlo, 191; La Badessa, Piazza Carlo

Emanuele II, 17; The Mole Antonelliana and National Museum of Film,

Via Montebello, 20; Grom, Piazza Paleocapa, 1D; Peyrano, Corso Vittorio

Emmanuele II, 76

Assortment of Peyrano’s

buttery biscottini

Opposite Page: Elegant

interior of caffe facing Piazza

San Carlo

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