1
THE SUN SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10 1000 I irirkrir j k T T 1 1 Gleaming Gowns All the Rage This Autumn PARIS IDEAS OF FASHION Russian Blouses Velvet Coats and Evening Costumes Gold In the Sew unit In Trtmmtnci of Yitnr IlmrrlpllanDeilin In While and lodllnlrrns and Ilini SUM Popular rYrnlni llonni Implr or llh lfnln Toward llor i u nenrifcnrallre loll Cndtunet cu TsllnrOtnilr Oowoi Whatever the men of country t meditating tli ntlngeiii to a wmnan are rnjlylru round ti tiittiiid line never nix nn linl li tngc dtOirntrd with more itnld l ntl p the uptrOiitc nor on- nn1 Him dna nt stop with gold buttons Prom her Rt ekln mid hies to lrr rri hr olUlli enrmnt i nrn gleaming with gold I BO tar ewnped th epidemic but name n tho new chemise mid night gowns show tiny void buckle liuldlnc rlbhcn I t iO1aIJUCK19 WOMAN r r fnk tar I I j N 1 II nay I i gild lat n hn huh 4 1 a rift id n i I I huh lng ri > > > < < In plan and silk peltlccats are franklycorded and toweled with sold ra theres no knowing where th craze will stop This un of cold In by tar the moot striking feature of the autumn fuililoii niul the effects obtained nrn eutrdlngly Rood but one wonder how the gold galorn and entredeux and em- broidery will stand wwir and wenthnr On carriage and houo gowns It may enough but It fairly safe to predict that ininy of flio street gowim and coato now being fashioned will li ok like relics of the war of 1SI3 holiday time Where It Is nnly nqunstlon of renewing gold brnld thl defection in iy not cause much trouble but the new gown tiTil cjntH are wonderfully and tearfully made i nni many of them will l e ruined beyond repair Ir Hi gold In their IrlmmlncH play them false It I well for the wiitnnn of moderate to Inccmet- o boar IliU ttliaoe of tho problem In mind r wliia ordsrln her nutimin outfit andto use gold trimming that may easily bn freshened or roplaod Another thing to remember I th J fact thit It Is the poorest economy to buy cheap tinsel trimming best tarnlshe I ndly enough aril the cheap gold In practically worthies Tb naw neckwear whloh Is hlnwrnlniT nut In bowllderlng profusion Jut now hhow Innumerable touches of gild Tucked stock of whlto or colored have 0 narrow llni of uMd ar pHiU or braid at tho top and n cravat or sold ribbon from whoso end dangle tiny ld bill or tat l Other stock arc of lace ciiitllnvl with gold and luivn ft ulllt scarf cravat with ends nppllqu with law Chiffon nnl mwMllnH jabot and knot are edged with narrow gold IHCP while the ncccmpiinylpg- chiffon stock ha a linn of gold nrxt the thn at Collar arp mado entirely of cloth of geld or gold braid with a line ot velvet nrnund ih tVTit nnd a nirrnw cravat strnp of velvet fastening with cold buckle Plastrons and emllar of gold doth embroidered In Oriental cjlors tiro shown In tho shops and are exceed eTJJtlviS liisUte dark coat bodice or with the M pular whit rjn co tuirci Many nf th new uowrs have a rather erer pouched bodli acrowt a roiitrnntln vest with R soft hnvy sold cord and the H contlnunl down tin aUIrt over a petticoat front cmtchlmi tlw Plain long uleove nra from shnud r to the elbow In order ti Introduei th lacing over an under leer of th ncnndiiry color Wond rful raised llowfru and other denlirna In gold or and white are used for ar pllqu and touch cold net cf heavy mesh oftn encnHfd with cram or blank lace IK a en In claboratp evening gowns On thu velvet and oat for which triumphant popu- larity I pn mls d gold trlmtnlnc U especially- In evidence Th large rut Rlvrs n croup of velvet Jacket rtetched from exchwlve inodeK and Intended for wear with broadcloth coirns in tints which an Ihc top notch of swellnMs for vHltlnB reception and casino w ar Th velvet bolero which goes with a cloth klrt of dellcnt lilac I of pansy velvet with n border of whit cioth embroidered In design hadlae from th lllnc of the skirt to thi deep rMdUh purple of th Jacket und shot throuxh with Hi avy sold thread while a cord of gold edjn cacti ld of the embroidered r L flrvl lble I I ore t f I I C I a i n rit t lacing I gold own pole r r k L t Even tho silk laced VeNt alit the a > > > > ¬ < ° bind lh bfilrn of the new French model out without darta and fullrd ll htly Into the plain liorU r bnealli th biini Various authorltl murmur r phecl r ecrdlnu lh i u lni Hi bolero and nod if fnlilcn lotions Hi central rule and dliMriU what crow common wmh the little iaoiHsHhouldco vanish from ths costum of tin ultra chic nut ts hincpn aro that both fad will llr- thromu in TKO man 114 w Hon I t unit IlIlIrrlrt gold should f Ion rl 4 1 the L Ii tine > < ° tlgn In both have been achIeved by manu- facturer and dcilhnem to an early from grace Will It U undoubtedly true that during the lent few week wverer line bAT beets creeping Into hn jnodeU turned out by tho most famous gown makem This U par- ticularly In o the cloth ansi wool gowns and tffectn on bodice are for winter wear If wanU a gown that wilt outlive one Maxon Such dcftlgn accentuate the longwaUted I read one tail trim ate experiments ¬ ¬ effect of th nionrnt nnd iir Inftnltely morn becoming to a dhortwaUtid fl ur than the Jacket which cut tim wal t length When Jaoketn are retained they how a tendency to creep down below dm walt Somotlmcii this moviinent Indicated only by tnlvs at th- bnrk from which n girdle starts defining the wuW Ito Or th fninU full In stole fashion and thy ulrdle follow th wulHt line in th back Or thn Jacket oMtend n few Inehru IKIOW the bflt all around The velvet Kus lan bloine shown In tho cut l n Popular model Itecomlne to slight figures Tho entente rordliln bntwuen Franco and HtUslA liat led French ileilciier Into various lluiwlun byway of fashion IhU en on Just as- yinpHtliy with tho nrmy during the trial led to tlm rage for military gold French fashion are Interesting cominentarleji upon admlnUlrallvn t ollrlei and jiopiilar sontlment If ono earns to study them In that light but the uvorngo ntudent fiihlins U of the 1eter Hell persuasion anti n Itunlaii bloine upon a Ilktiro trim A liusslan blou e Is to him And It I nothing mure Apoloclos nr due to Mr Wordsworth but If he could see fUwslan blOOM of the ho would undoubtedly admit that his prlmrofo was honored byaaoo elation with It The particular llfsilin blouse In questlon U of black velvet lined Wth white satin and the high xtnlght collar down the left and wristbands arm of gold nnd gnrgou hued embroider nnwhlleMtlnwhllii a wrought gold girdle of rather masjlve design confines tle iKiiichlng fullnes The blouHj Is wultablo for wear with any liAndsonn gown and hu nn air of costly simplicity combined with hiKUrlous- romfort that l lacking In many of the more coaw velvet coat to h worn with an Ivory while cloth Urt hat n broad velvet collar I of th ball MidI ural hind a Period < over an under collar of white cloth heavily stitched In Mini del Tint turnedback cuff show on under cuff of white and blue and the white cloth valMcont Is stItched with blue Tim coat fastens across thn hunt with a ftquare bow and ends of black velvet lined with blue fringed with gold and tied through a square gold buckle- A gown of pale blue cloth has a black velvet coat edged with overlapping folds of the blue cloth and the velvet The high Alclon collar Infnccd almost to the edge with henry touched with gold and the underKleeVe ire of lace A ncflrf of thn same laoo a e around tho shoulders U drawn through thru gold buck lace < Ics on uach side of the front and hang In ends The blouse It like the skirt of pale blue cloth and U full upon a deeply pointed yoke of gold traced Inco A broad bund of the ime- Ince borders the kl t The fifth Is en- tirely In black white and gold the and ciifT Mug In H HOilloiwxI shingle design of edged with gold Kvening gowns even on rlvwlo empire llne show a nnlnc tWBrdinrtfi mnR this ceo wn antI white mid void Is n favorite motif Sold tarn enlrcdfiix IK Introduced upon even the flliiy whlto material and froufrou under runie lilted with cold lice dicker de Iclously under clomMikn nklrtn of chlllon tu le Ao and match the whlto and told slippers beneath tinin nnd tilt whlto sill stockings gold em- broidered Slmpln evening unwiu arc how- ever n possibility and two charming are hnwn In the cut One of erf po de Japan luw a skirt made entirely of grad listed horizontal tucks the broader ones at lh bjttom Iwlng in rwitily cut folds to thn skirt but Klnmntlng tuck lete tmdtro U a n of tiny tuck running round tho wall and l devoid of trimming save for tho inouwellno and ace fichu that raid around tIn back of thedicollet cro e the shoulders and ends at either side of the front In a knot and Jaboted scarf ends The otter evening equally oimpls In design hut more strik- ing in material Is a Marie Antoinette model Tile bodice and tram are of flowered silk In pastel shades on whlto ground and the bod- Ice front and petticoat are of cream elne The mouwllne vest l closely the bodice fmlihM In the exaggerated Lout XVI point tho skirt being a trifle bohffant under tli int and acrcsMhc hips A tucked flounce rat I hit moll Ill a mOll I 1 gown ¬ < ¬ ¬ ¬ of mouMellne It set on the petticoat In a oorrwpondlng to tho line of the bodice A Marie Antoinette fichu of moivuxllne edged with tucked frills Is the only trimming of the bodice One of thfuo flchuntogcther with elbow frilU for the sleeves and a narrow velvet girdle Is a I the trimming net ded for moat bewitching little house gowns of pole blue crepe nuns veiling or any ono of the soft wools and uch frocks cleaning perfectly as they do arc most servIceable Itcijis of wardrobe Even an ordinary drossmaker can make thin plain round wit slightly full In front and the simple skirt chirred n trifle Borons the iirAl hack and finished with folds on tho bottom The fichu and i olnted girdle iflvo till the character to tliu frocks nnd these call fashioned by the wearer henelf or under her eye There U everything In the draping of n Jlchu and one must be content to tand before n mirror fur A wearUomo time trying effects of lines nnd folds If ono wants to fathom the possibilities- of this most becoming ad Imict of the new goWns lulf coslunuM for nutumn Wear are being turned out In surprising number Junt now and though most of them tho same rela- tion to golfing that the chic bathlrur stilt bear to the salt sea woven they are good to look at on a dIll veranda The girl with a golf score to maintain will get Into n sensible tinspollahln golf skirt nnd n IOOM flannel Milrt waist which sun will won utretch Into unrecognizable shape and will play her game hilt there are others They lilac golf ru though they were handling brooms and limy couldnt po lbly get n full swing without casualties to hooka und stints and hutlimx but titer or distinctly pint bear I is hips tie dir ¬ decorative and that may bt better than lower- Ing a score The golf costume shown U a now mOdel and comfortable enough to be com- paratively practical The blotised blue a notched of white cloth trimmed with small gold and Is worn over n loose whit blouse The bishop sleeve has a cuff of white and the imcket set diagonally- In the skirt shows a notched tine of white and buttons down with Kilt buttons- Of making new tailor gown modola there oat- h allot on ¬ Is apparently no end although tile continued warm weather IN discouraging both tailors and patrons and many of the former are lamenting that they opened their shop on the traditional Kept 1 Home of the recent models sketched show the usual features with slight variation In trimming New York tailors Beein to be clinging more closjly to the Ctons than their French colleagues though many tailor bodice and longer coats are wen at the more ex- clusive shops A gown In tobacco brown serge ha an Fton flushed with applied wallops hnavlly stitched the point of each scallop being held by a dull gold button The bottom of the skirt ha the same trimming A waistcoat of pastel blue buttons with gold buttons and the cuffs havo an edge of blue Tho browns are perhaps the popular of all the darker color a season advances though the blues and greens are serious rivals njjd red U- asHiimlng great prominence The have never before been so beautiful n they are this season rich and glowing yet Innomemyiiiteriou way devoid of all cmdenees and both In gowns nnd millinery tho color Is forging to the front A red cloth gown shown In a cut Is made with a plain bolero under which IK a bolero of white cloth embroidered In rich Oriental colors red predominating The bishop alcove bOA embroidered and the coat I worn over a blouso of white lonWne silk with red pannn collar edze and girdle Another suit with a short jacket la of Rus- sian blue serge A band of broad gold braid edges the jacket which U oollurless and run half way on the Jacket fronts ending held by large wrought gold buttons A bund of braid nine down either hide of a front skirt breadth unit finishes at tho knee with u point ant button The full length travelling Is sketched from A In hunter clm i with- a of black and white dotted panne and revere edged with panne Tile blouse Is slit up each tide to show an under mOlt Ih wrist bad dow Ion loll I wide Irish reds Inca ¬ ¬ bodice of this dotted panne and In held In place by tiny frog of black white and gold tipped with tastuU Wristbands and girdle are of panne and thin skirt Is trimmed only with small cording of black white mid gold on the seams The other full length sketch shows another green gown trimmed with black and gold braid I and small gold buttons A waistcoat of pole blue fasten with told strap and buttons Thl rv tu n of green and blue In vary I S > Inr anode appears In French de- signs and I considered particularly rood Even bathrobe are feeling tho empire move- ment nnd taking on new pretensions One Ilroadwa firm I showing uncommon pretty tunes of light blue eiderdown flannel with heavy wash lace collar and brood empire br fasten- ing with huge gold button Another loung- Ing robe In the same hop of French flannel In dull blue trimmed with blue and seen was ¬ ¬ ¬ gold braid nnd ecru law and n charming tea Jacket nearby was mad of pink ribbon and heavy Inca Insertion with wide rIvers of heavy lace Inside of which was folded a surplice fichu of creamv inou ellnp All thin how for tho hair havo by tlm cold mlcrobo nnd bit of gold gaue ribbon K twisted Into the mid the white satin Lows that arc MI practical dinner and home wear Thin fall outing are rot visions of beauty llyi eri well hatter have mad desperate efforts to e aip from the dominion of corn brero and alpine share and tho result nrn not all that could be desired Icrhap tl e owellent and most chic of the new models Is of shaggy white minds hair In modified sombrero Minpo and with a stitched under brim of black camels hnlr One exclusive firm U maklnif up thewo hat with a folded band of black panne velvet flint pompon but the general verdict trimming over- done an absolutely bond I the correct thing for nutumn outing hut Moods which nrej much Ilko fitted yoke turned up around the edgm and lined with n contrasting color are being used on many of the and Occasionally the gold buttons The newfluor c nt rilk U n changeable- silk under a new name but It has a new beauty as well and obtains color effects never achieved In changeable materials Bronze shoe are creeping hack Into favor nnd many fancy shoe And slippers show bronze Il 1 IUI II bilk cal II nap Ie lion infected or- dinary bate has been buttoned tothe with ¬ > < ¬ In combination with pastel color A craze for fancy and bizarre foot wear I predicted- but In splto of seasons many vagaries Brown Is popular once more and n host of women will look more hopelessly plain than a beneficent Providence intended There seems to be an Idea that any one can wear brown In reality It U a color to be treated with marked respect and a woman needs deep discretion In chooMng the exact shade of brown that will bo becoming to her Yellow brown will te l all the life from hair and eyes dray brown will ruin some complexions ned brown will make a allow skin mom sallow And yet the right brown on the right girl I r thing to with Touches of burnt Orange and ear on many of brown gowns Dull and certain shade or alto colnblnn well with browns yet n brown costume duet f to t combination and unlo one achieve a complete nymphony liWirown choose n morn adaptable coor for a general service coMumu Till flare A the skirt bcttom U modified and Iho lull cown hung rather llmrl around tho Next to the white cloth gowns In favor gown of light hIm and of mushroom rink cfrth nod the ndlcatlnis are tlrt this Is to bi preeminently A eason of pale tinted cloths for wear Iale gray stocking Imbrcklered In silver are In demand to match thn clothof ver slippers have jiitt appeared 1OYO ltM ttOMIXO Nallre el the lilsrd living Elsewhere Food lit Ifctliltlrc Olilllrtldrntrs From New Ilnrn shire nnd Maine the cu torn of Home Wtek r Old Homo Week spread this nutumn to Connecticut It Is referred to u n w England custom mOld oxlst In cetuln other of New England New far n the main hod of the Stnto- Is concerned Down on Long how- ever the ha teen no Institution of Home Week a an autumnal festival gathering there ha lone beer ing and Iong I landi rx am rather proud of It will tell visitors that mid every Year there are enough of who domiciled liemfolve visiting their former homes on island to out the truth of the deHanitinn Sol every wanderer to be sure comes r n but sum rner native Long Islanders from nil parts of black mal I to ono rot I Ynrk did not or hr 1 lnnd TIC bear thi fro the Sop 1- 0bc or 1 110 the old home corn i dIstinctly stand Nil 114 lilT harts with this rittoin eli noun s bong three elsewhere country wren PACIfIC S > + ¬ ¬ > SUMMER TAN NOT ALL A JOY FBiiixiNE mnnsxiTiiis iritKN IT- neoixa TO fADf Complexion HpolUd bjr To Or t Dtrotloa- U the SnnQiiefB Victoria MiUtal Ac cirapllihrntnUAdrtro to ITomtn a to lo take Thtmielv DUIIktd woman who hw returned to town now area the gradual disappearance of the tan which collected assiduously during the summer months Unfortunately It not all eo at once Slowly her face become a dingy yellow and that tint usually lasts longer than any of the other pha the pownsor of this tinliecomlng relic uin- mcr I asking herself why In tho world ho ever took no muoh Interest In getting brown Hhe wonder why she ever lay hours In the baking mm trying to get n color darker than any of her companions could boast A coat of tan I becoming to few women A brunette with the coloring of tier kind U occasionally made n little more attractive when liar skin has grown richer and darker from thin effects of the stun Dark hair and eye derive nn added beauty from a darker and the brunette can occasionally make the umm r experiment and riot be the looser In thIS matter of looks Hut II the one woman who can The blonde should avoid n lipavy coat of tan as die would the plague It will always bo unbecoming to any woman with light colored hair nnd e Itlonde hair Is very likely to Mench front the effect of the summer sun mul there are enough yel J low lady she she does very skin > owfaoed fadcdhaind lighteyed women nbout New York today to supply an eternal warning against excessive tan n a summer diversion Yet the next summer will the same num- ber o women walking haIku and placing In the sun delighted alon rats see ¬ nt of a tat of tan moio marked than of their friends have accu- mulated The nnythlng else In women athletics to spoil and many n girl gone for three orfour summer without n hat has damaged skin to such an ont that the effects will last during rest of her life rh girl who has most reason to regret the lingering effects of the summer I who Imprudently cut her bathing dress low In th of being free In her motions while swimming She Is learning now how slowly a coat Un may disappear when one most anxlou to get coming of the to wear low of tan on neck and a distinct are now One came out winter the preceding summer In the freedom the season wa the last In she would not be a young lady burdened with the responsibilities so She found when gayeties the and contrasted most strikingly with the white skin on this rest of Something had to ha done because high necked gowns were out of the question for n woman who to haw tlrat In So a necklace of pearls was very sklllfuly arranged hy her to such n that It the particular line which marked the ending of sum- mer bathing The contrast was In way concealed Women not enough to es been to cut their with an unfashionable- and unbecoming merely summer tan would remain The i am trouble comes wh n the question of bodice nrlses Arm are a discolored a neck and although thorn Is thought to be a certain smartneAs about sunburned arm In the sum- mer tune few perKon would be lo that worn equally to he admired In n ballroom Women returning to town add force to the theory that few women were ever Im- proved b allowing to get more n little bit sunburned An exagger- ated may Improve looks deeper tan will not unbecoming In summer but also it cnntliinlng nuUance In the winter monthx until It makes ltd belated appearance Queen Victoria boa for thin past three year shown more Interest In music than for year before The private operatic performances given at Windsor by the Covent harden artlU un cult and mark ho hell th luck II Ih hM IUI b has the she time sleeveless lindicea will the the arms last cit was suit dresses sleeveless 513 die ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ i have been on evidence of the Queens enjoy- ment of muilo and the principal muilclan of the London season have appeared at the castle Formerly the Queen went to the opera herself but now that I out of the question and Shift must take her enjoyment cur- tailed performance given at Windsor Now- I somebody discovered that she ls an ex- oillent judge of singing and wu at one also has time ¬ ¬ able to tlag with that cam from the a st l ndld teacher and for eighteen years Bo protracted a mu lcal education rare of eouw be to a queen or a woman of wealth It was her taste for In to her the Queen Is as a solid Hhe a high opinion of her and their Inter- course that of friends than of mon youth a or studied music with vII skill nine in her Queen IS tO hid beautiful quaLity Nba basso very showed skill aa a was arch and subject frequently to- gether and Victoria nothing o much t these time as in thin dutt I from Von Giovanni which her Hho many dirflcult and elaborate operatic a us religious muslo and song have delighted uciinlrers particu- larly the facility which read and the correctness of her ear These of family had been HO taught by Blgnor that her voice retained power and lung flIer the at women are supposed to cease singing- A woman who has figured largely In the affaire of her sex wni asked recently to give- n few words of ndvlco which be of use to women In all walks of life whatever their particular calling was Ono practical hint that ho been suggested to me by long expe- rience wrote will help any woman to develop her facullloi My advice I bo your Mlf or be original These words may or may not contain n much wisdom as they seem sound rather and they had on one woman to bring out denunciation make nine women out of ten Intolerable They are bad enough when they are by Then life icing mentally If not actually other woman with they come They are o much of us that they never be expected to associate with rot of their MX on an In I dorm w Thc to lllnl1 and Is at hI mIMIC wrl by rllM mOt fond or Thy the cite was airs Queen tisod be a good shin gifts only arid the late Iiike are musiC might she rnile she said 9 that will prigs every ¬ ¬ their were oil humdrum conventional We think about our homes our children and contemptible tor do a wider range of observation arid n sort of for u usually been my experience with any woman could he Improved by Ux advice to be original Wo a Is like If attempts to be original In Then he Is to a Originality In manner makes al- ternate rudeness and e perfect frankness and of char- acter to of the of a woman and at aU Into public view wo Just what a U likely to be It Is only own sex an a rule that any womati ever tries to be original fche knows pretty well that that sort of Uilog never to They like a oonven sort of woman the man who taken a to her will discover in which time I utterly different from That nil comet from the man Mmnelf It satUnes too Hed rather discover marked char- acteristics In the girl he love have them really In and apparent to the rest of the world So the woman Is original with tax Is perfectly satisfied merely or- dinary and n a possible men- The other alternative In general advice- to women seems to me almost a dangerous although It I likely to mnke n woman less o an fraud Women who have made up a novelty and I havent the least doubt that plane by aiming at the best development of own character and never pretending- to bn what are not But most of those- I have known usually impress overy nenwin the would ever want to h Ilko them Aside elfatl fled moral attitude that they after n short there are tho awk- ward result of this uncompromising ndherencn to truth and their own natures They ore of It and none of thorn Is to pleasant and agreeable thlnr are not on truth On the re- mark that are likely to make n disagreeable Impression are bo for that reason not bn true to one character to hesitate to nil the unpleasant things ore believed H would bn very much somebody else Instead Altogether I dont think that ndrlon to bn original or bn oneself would make n woman especially popular If she followed It however i I have known who prided themselves onclnal must have an tunity om tlme to lie merely themselves In rooms and take a rest from the strain of trying to bo original wager that women were working so hard all the time to be themselves would have an occasional chance to be more like the rest of their sex tie Knew tbe Real Thing Prom Mt landon ntwrn They had just got married Mid were start Irvg on their honeymoon The tirlde had got the man loved and she didnt rare who saw her put her head on shoulder The bridegroom got a farm with wife If he wanted to h r hand or feed her with tweets whose buslnms wi A little old man t lt the couple nd he looked Ht them o often that the young ttnjlly explained Just married I knowed the the otherAnd we cant help It you know i oil neern very to n old roan like Does It Dot unkled the old follow Well I rn you It does not then 1vo Den there time owN And now Im on ono touch and the rot nd t think or these 6 mind mid I woman or Ole that to b whIch wan 1 to liar or men tonal Ju 011a18 provide and a may fonc pints he- ron to their to b no means man a who ml Idea In word and In cases where NaI Tat sti meat or hr character Mot of worn A n his e lot tme chuckle So cal otnl YOU tel a t Il Ile and dress they a origna1 way are too different from mat thl origInal the dont fright thoae extidea seem sun exhibition get can variety Ilowever common- place girl Oil the sex be minds be themselves are high them with that 0011W prevented from showing kindness sympathy the they ray t might the the own she his us you be you itt to fourth Why children paradise downi ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ < IN nnoostrtf The Montauk Club of Brooklyn located near the entrance to Prospect Park tins enjoyed the vogue of being the most popular summer In town during the season past owing no to Ideal situation on Prospect Height AH well as to the attractive methods of It gen- eral managomont and IU chef Duvenvl to be one of the heist In this part of thu Tho kitchens of the MonUuk are on rout floor In accordance with modern nrchltucturnl its dining rouiiu are especially fn the presence of fat luncheons and other feasts ut which HKI feminine presonoa not only admitted lout eagerly sought for Tho women KUUSH of the Montauk flub have becomu entluulnKllo over the various dishes to bn haul nt thu and have sought for Infortnatloii ON to their preparation While this may bo with a view to proving to their own satisfaction that clili cooking can be imulnted lit home one of ambitious tho rest re- cently obtained tome of Clot Dnvoiicl own recipes for sortie of time moat popular dlttm Dented at the Montauk tablu First Is n potage Vanderbltt sufilclon rw twelve plates requiring n calf head nnd two ponies of Amontlllada one pint of credo nil eggs yolks and boiled rice Clean head and jaws thoroughly wash them In cold water then putt In Hnucepiin with nix quarts of water And a bouquet of hay leaves al o two leeks pnmley celery tied In buncheH on carrot two onions and one turnip brio for three hours then roniovn tho and cnlTn head Strain tilt broth through a cloth Thou put lx ounces butter In n with four tablespoon of flour Stir It with broth and let heat for tint minutes Cut thn parts of the head oral Jaws In small squares add with one half pint rico the sherry lo the broth Thicken creara and egg yolk and serve Pickerel In Montauk style Is prepared in this Select five pound of pickerel tic the heads tall and skin off and place them In a Haucepan with some salt and pepper and two quart of water I et heat slowly for Then lord the pickerel some as tenderloin wagon well and wrap In white paper buttered on both sides Iut two ounces of hutter with the fish soil cook for half an hour In n slack Pound In a mortar a little watercress chevril parsley two anchovies Cue clove of two arid of butter When In a paste through a tine then put two ounces of butter In sieve saucepan with two of flour fish broth Add half a whltn wine halt n of cream and the paste allow to cook slowly ten minutes twolvo well trimmed Then n saucepan four ounces bacon one valves together fine cessna with salt and nutmeg Then cut twelve sheet of prepared paper double heart shape butter on put a little of on each and under a well Fold the paper around each chop and twist In them In a baking pan cook for ten minutes nerve split nnd arranged on n one portUa raspberry syrup over Tho syrup pint raspberry ounce powdered sugar one Maraschino the fire saucepan when boiling odd arrowroot dissolved In a water When It Is cold It will look like Jelly and can be added to the Ice Montauk sandwiches generally served at lure n and sire In this fash Ion Pound ono pound double cream Ameri- can cheese and It three whole egvs a few drops of sauce ami cover li Iamb placed on toast Cook for ten In a oven and servo with a sllrn of bacon on each and a lace paper under The Brooklyn clubs hOT always been far more hospitable to women guests than those of New York While there are ladle day BO called at all the largo metropolitan these days are rather the signal for a general departing of the mancullna element nnd tho clubhouse I turned over to thin feminine In fadert At some of the clubs notably the yachting clubs even severer methods are re- torted to and certain panes are lined off from he Intrusion of n woman1 foot and here the grizzled bachelors betake themselves to rend sod smoke until the day I at an end Drook- yn clubs have always made a feature of en ertalnmcnt for their femlnlnn friends Their lowllng alleys have been turned over to fair ithletea morning while on certain days en ertnlnmcnt are provided with luncheon and nuslcal programmefl to enoouragn the presence if the fair guest This Idea ha rather prejudiced the Brook yn matron nnd maid In favor of club life One lenr little over the tea tables except In antici- pation of the winters round picture view Italian to ono athletic with n country at hay a something to be greeted rejoicing Tho town butt the entertainment there I formal while at their country scene on cummer afternoons 1 bright Ith the color of gowns and the sound of mlnlno voices It letup thing to drive to spot and dinners and luncheons re on overlooking the bay launches arc anchored nd far Into the evening the music of banjo and tandollns sound unison with happy Brooklyn con boast two notable womens tubs one the Clvltnn formed by the society Iris of the Heights for the discussion of political tatters and the Health Protective League an uptown organization of women whose avowed bject wa the healthful management of th Ity the proper cleaning of the streets the ceo latlon of the schools and other the hygiene of the people dill actual work and gained more lasting fats han any of the various women club of hew The fomou also an out rowth of Brooklyn numbering thousand nf he who used to fairly old Academy of Music at tint were under direction of Laura President the As- Delation The Brooklyn Women Club eon celled the of and feminine celebrities In literature among s members Tho jokes that ore oo popular with the ork flat dweller at the expense of the Brooklyn sldont aro really not o funny as they seem be For thin man whoso business internals located In Now York thn journey each day Bridge or ferries unpleasant dlousnes but with this exception the Brook Is by far th gainer In tho matter of neon my In living expenses and Inn position hat con d In hurcbc Incomu that would provide lorn than the haP rent of a mnt on this side of thn Bridge Very apartment are i the choicest n tho t rentals that would only provide restricted a Hut sport lent will tM vi r l r In a are In this boroiigi for the ron tl- Mt the average ideas of cool seem to a home arid n while the metropolitan glut dweller never ulte reaches Ivor the Ilriikv- lerefcre far out In the new portions pretty go In rows that re pec- hlllty In their line These are of modern Improvement ar- tlh other human of whom they know nothing id for they never onn i hloned Yet the averse nw York and woman especially th oman Idea of their ten continue to serenely nt Brooklyn ivantnge FRECKLES tan moth blotches and rt discoloration of the skin and complexion speedily and at home Full Information S with bopk mailed free JOHN H WOODBURY W 214 near Ctir- nndltjj Coftnmrrsr- XKUCII LADIES TAItA- ot ittk t M aja nARD cub ali plan d ot the I th th pan leI bold wa anhour oven o tie over Lamb chops brain mix a two p lpd or and ono tbl 18 Jul novell bMCO braised mil ho look with moT lawn ore mater to more York Iub cIT wan th roll man New fro rlnl tie on nn hOld r hll In o furl 8 hOI f tat for lal chlal lat or YOlk In I n II lan to and u our 2 I J its itt women brruk lot successfully thtrn moore thom jam let jaws the stir pinto off sauce serve donngre are excellent f3lcjt liver tarragon little eli Cardinal are frcetnne peaches fish with ion cream Ill ft nesrl peaches clubs receptions to given senson they upon an in louse a- muse gii this was Ire pea has I has its mite tune W icy this U aver interior fittings arid re rnt leow the New families are hu riiiIo 4 J14 uTailaa N- ft ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ > > > < Purlfl- oTh who lilmte the wi illed In the aol n The finger that flour ut that b when to if Thl wife In n ni- Wei money I it- dnCeli and a the nn It Im- fumlttj Paying r nirnltu- Im fi- an i all fVtl- n lit tin Win linr n than m- Wnl ki We- lanj In have b was the The tnornanl I hoexcl- Oh cm or othi- I a flat at i Now aW h truck ul i Me knt- r wor for oooi emits w nice ne bright 1 Import bother Know Yes look evening f ST- p rile 4 U th- at V ltrn huh 7 allow tB- Clielu cough marks The oilier tuucko- eho C tail I grutep- To lull W- Ihonlie croon dcsrng- bicese ttk to 111 10 The iiri huasJit that itulti- moilg 13 ritn- iilied trying Iiln Jim Ito iii- it Wa- I over lookin whit t then in tat fesiin every iiikvt cures the hot Ne- th c- ijused does phlians- tmotit bumt ho- rota N C- liigso herd a ting w a said s gal nit I 1a iii a- fore Qui- Iis rtri 4 she we hold a- ix ma lag in dihest- aice to imou- lNo at of- timI I stuff f Ign- ohrdi ver her to- ciii ii ahIrflY- at iiltVe Ow I Its all Tue- wliilo gi itt lime Ii- I I a smell numut h- iilicej rings rini di tsi a ilorritlu- im1 tl- apuiesli thi see tUb tim Tim just w Ala icji Vealyr- eltte Kilt hip II ee If I be s I cit him haying co nOUn that view would ds h lake lie Irig

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Page 1: The Sun. (New York, N.Y.) 1900-09-16 [p 4].chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030272/1900-09-16/ed-1/seq-16.pdf · vanish from ths costum of tin ultra chic nut ts hincpn aro that

THE SUN SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10 1000Iirirkrir j k T T

1 1

Gleaming Gowns All the Rage

This Autumn

PARIS IDEAS OF FASHION

Russian Blouses Velvet Coats

and Evening Costumes

Gold In the Sew unit In Trtmmtnci

of Yitnr IlmrrlpllanDeilin In While and

lodllnlrrns and Ilini SUM Popular

rYrnlni llonni Implr or llh lfnlnToward llor i u nenrifcnrallre lollCndtunet cu TsllnrOtnilr Oowoi

Whatever the men of country t

meditating tli ntlngeiii to a wmnan

are rnjlylru round ti tiittiiid linenever nix nn linl li tngc dtOirntrd with

more itnld l ntl p the uptrOiitc nor on-

nn1 Him dna nt stop with gold buttons Prom

her Rt ekln mid hies to lrr rri hrolUlli enrmnt i nrn gleaming with goldI BO tar ewnped th epidemicbut name n tho new chemise mid night gowns

show tiny void buckle liuldlnc rlbhcn

I

t

iO1aIJUCK19 WOMAN

rr

fnk tarI

I

j N

1 II nayI

i gild

lat n

hn

huh

4

1

a

rift id n i

II huh

lng ri

>>

>

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In plan and silk peltlccats are franklycordedand toweled with sold ra theres no knowingwhere th craze will stop

This un of cold In by tar the moot strikingfeature of the autumn fuililoii niul the effectsobtained nrn eutrdlngly Rood but one wonderhow the gold galorn and entredeux and em-

broidery will stand wwir and wenthnr Oncarriage and houo gowns It mayenough but It fairly safe to predict thatininy of flio street gowim and coato now beingfashioned will li ok like relics of the war of1SI3 holiday time Where It Is nnlynqunstlon of renewing gold brnld thl defectionin iy not cause much trouble but the new gowntiTil cjntH are wonderfully and tearfully made

i nni many of them will l e ruined beyond repairIr Hi gold In their IrlmmlncH play them falseIt I well for the wiitnnn of moderateto

Inccmet-

o boar IliU ttliaoe of tho problem In mindr wliia ordsrln her nutimin outfit andto use

gold trimming that may easily bn freshenedor roplaod Another thing to rememberI th J fact thit It Is the poorest economy to buycheap tinsel trimming best tarnlsheI ndly enough aril the cheap gold In practicallyworthies

Tb naw neckwear whloh Is hlnwrnlniTnut In bowllderlng profusion Jut now hhowInnumerable touches of gild Tucked stockof whlto or colored have 0 narrow llni ofuMd ar pHiU or braid at tho top and n cravator sold ribbon from whoso end dangle tiny

ld bill or tat l Other stock arc of laceciiitllnvl with gold and luivn ft ulllt scarfcravat with ends nppllqu with law Chiffonnnl mwMllnH jabot and knot are edgedwith narrow gold IHCP while the ncccmpiinylpg-chiffon stock ha a linn of gold nrxt the thn atCollar arp mado entirely of cloth of geld orgold braid with a line ot velvet nrnund ihtVTit nnd a nirrnw cravat strnp of velvetfastening with cold buckle Plastrons andemllar of gold doth embroidered In Orientalcjlors tiro shown In tho shops and are exceed

eTJJtlviS liisUte dark coat bodice or withthe M pular whit rjn co tuirci

Many nf th new uowrs have a rather ererpouched bodli acrowt a roiitrnntln vestwith R soft hnvy sold cord and theH contlnunl down tin aUIrt over a petticoatfront cmtchlmi tlw Plain long uleovenra from shnud r to the elbow In orderti Introduei th lacing over an under leerof th ncnndiiry color

Wond rful raised llowfru and other denlirnaIn gold or and white are used for arpllqu and touch cold net cf heavy mesh oftnencnHfd with cram or blank lace IK a enIn claboratp evening gowns On thu velvet

and oat for which triumphant popu-

larity I pn mls d gold trlmtnlnc U especially-In evidence Th large rut Rlvrs n croup ofvelvet Jacket rtetched from exchwlve inodeKand Intended for wear with broadclothcoirns in tints which an Ihc top notchof swellnMs for vHltlnB reception and casinow ar Th velvet bolero which goes with acloth klrt of dellcnt lilac I of pansy velvetwith n border of whit cioth embroidered Indesign hadlae from th lllnc of the skirt tothi deep rMdUh purple of th Jacket und shotthrouxh with Hi avy sold thread while a cordof gold edjn cacti ld of the embroidered

r

L flrvl lbleI

I

ore

t

fI

I

C

I

a

i n rit

t lacing

I

gold

own

pole

r

r

kL

t Even tho

silk

laced

VeNt

alit

the

a

>

>

>

>

¬

<

°

bind lh bfilrn of the new French modelout without darta and fullrd ll htly Into theplain liorU r bnealli th biini

Various authorltl murmur r phecl recrdlnu lh i u lni Hi bolero andnod if fnlilcn lotions Hi central rule anddliMriU what crow common wmh the littleiaoiHsHhouldcovanish from ths costum of tin ultra chicnut ts hincpn aro that both fad will llr-thromu in TKO man

114

w

Hon

I

t unit IlIlIrrlrt gold should

f

Ion rl

4

1

the

L

Ii tine

>

<

°

tlgn In both have been achIeved by manu-

facturer and dcilhnem to an earlyfrom grace Will It U undoubtedly true thatduring the lent few week wverer line bAT

beets creeping Into hn jnodeU turned out by

tho most famous gown makem This U par-

ticularly In o the cloth ansi wool

gowns and tffectn on bodiceare for winter wear If

wanU a gown that wilt outlive one MaxonSuch dcftlgn accentuate the longwaUted

I

readone

tail

trim

ate experiments

¬

¬

effect of th nionrnt nnd iir Inftnltely mornbecoming to a dhortwaUtid fl ur than theJacket which cut tim wal t length When

Jaoketn are retained they how a tendency tocreep down below dm walt Somotlmciithis moviinent Indicated only by tnlvs at th-

bnrk from which n girdle starts defining thewuW Ito Or th fninU full In stole fashionand thy ulrdle follow th wulHt line in th backOr thn Jacket oMtend n few Inehru IKIOW thebflt all around

The velvet Kus lan bloine shown In tho cutl n Popular model Itecomlne to slight figuresTho entente rordliln bntwuen Franco andHtUslA liat led French ileilciier Into variouslluiwlun byway of fashion IhU en on Just as-

yinpHtliy with tho nrmy during thetrial led to tlm rage for military gold Frenchfashion are Interesting cominentarleji uponadmlnUlrallvn t ollrlei and jiopiilar sontlmentIf ono earns to study them In that light butthe uvorngo ntudent fiihlins U of the 1eterHell persuasion anti n Itunlaii bloine upon aIlktiro trim A liusslan blou e Is to him And It I

nothing mure Apoloclos nr due to MrWordsworth but If he could see fUwslanblOOM of the ho would undoubtedlyadmit that his prlmrofo was honored byaaooelation with It

The particular llfsilin blouse In questlon U

of black velvet lined Wth white satin and thehigh xtnlght collar down the left andwristbands arm of gold nnd gnrgouhued embroider nnwhlleMtlnwhllii a wroughtgold girdle of rather masjlve design confinestle iKiiichlng fullnes The blouHj Is wultablo

for wear with any liAndsonn gown and hu nnair of costly simplicity combined with hiKUrlous-

romfort that l lacking In many of the morecoaw

velvet coat to h worn with an Ivorywhile cloth Urt hat n broad velvet collar

I

of

th

ball MidI

ural

hind

a

Period

<

over an under collar of white cloth heavilystitched In Mini del Tint turnedback cuffshow on under cuff of white and blue and thewhite cloth valMcont Is stItched with blueTim coat fastens across thn hunt with a ftquarebow and ends of black velvet lined with bluefringed with gold and tied through a squaregold buckle-

A gown of pale blue cloth has a black velvetcoat edged with overlapping folds of the blue

cloth and the velvet The high Alclon collarInfnccd almost to the edge with henrytouched with gold and the underKleeVe ireof lace A ncflrf of thn same laoo a e aroundtho shoulders U drawn through thru gold buck

lace

<

Ics on uach side of the front and hang In

ends The blouse It like the skirt of pale bluecloth and U full upon a deeply pointed yokeof gold traced Inco A broad bund of the ime-Ince borders the kl t The fifth Is en-

tirely In black white and gold the andciifT Mug In H HOilloiwxI shingle design of

edged with goldKvening gowns even on rlvwlo empire llne

show a nnlnc tWBrdinrtfi mnR this ceow n antI white mid void Is n favorite motif

Sold tarn enlrcdfiix IK Introduced upon eventhe flliiy whlto material and froufrou underrunie lilted with cold lice dicker de Iclously

under clomMikn nklrtn of chlllon tu le Ao

and match the whlto and told slippers beneathtinin nnd tilt whlto sill stockings gold em-

broidered Slmpln evening unwiu arc how-

ever n possibility and two charmingare hnwn In the cut One oferf po de Japan luw a skirt made entirely of gradlisted horizontal tucks the broader ones atlh bjttom Iwlng in rwitily cut folds tothn skirt but Klnmntlng tucklete tmdtro U a n of tiny tuck running roundtho wall and l devoid of trimming save fortho inouwellno and ace fichu that raid aroundtIn back of thedicollet cro e the shouldersand ends at either side of the front In a knotand Jaboted scarf ends The otter evening

equally oimpls In design hut more strik-ing in material Is a Marie Antoinette modelTile bodice and tram are of flowered silk In

pastel shades on whlto ground and the bod-

Ice front and petticoat are of cream elneThe mouwllne vest l closely thebodice fmlihM In the exaggerated Lout XVIpoint tho skirt being a trifle bohffant undertli int and acrcsMhc hips A tucked flounce

rat

I hit

moll

Ill

amOll

I

1

gown

¬

<

¬

¬

¬

of mouMellne It set on the petticoat In aoorrwpondlng to tho line of the bodiceA Marie Antoinette fichu of moivuxllne edgedwith tucked frills Is the only trimming of thebodice

One of thfuo flchuntogcther with elbow frilU

for the sleeves and a narrow velvet girdleIs a I the trimming net ded for moat bewitchinglittle house gowns of pole blue crepe nunsveiling or any ono of the soft wools and uchfrocks cleaning perfectly as they do arc mostservIceable Itcijis of wardrobe Even anordinary drossmaker can make thin plain round

wit slightly full In front and the simple skirtchirred n trifle Borons the iirAl hack andfinished with folds on tho bottom The fichu

and i olnted girdle iflvo till the character totliu frocks nnd these call fashioned by thewearer henelf or under her eye There U

everything In the draping of n Jlchu and one

must be content to tand before n mirror furA wearUomo time trying effects of lines nnd

folds If ono wants to fathom the possibilities-

of this most becoming ad Imict of the new goWnslulf coslunuM for nutumn Wear are being

turned out In surprising number Junt now

and though most of them tho same rela-

tion to golfing that the chic bathlrur stilt bearto the salt sea woven they are good to look aton a dIll veranda The girl with a golf score

to maintain will get Into n sensible tinspollahlngolf skirt nnd n IOOM flannel Milrt waist whichsun will won utretch Into unrecognizable shapeand will play her game hilt there areothers They lilac golf ru though they werehandling brooms and limy couldnt po lblyget n full swing without casualties to hooka

und stints and hutlimx but titer or distinctly

pint

bear

I

is

hips

tie

dir

¬

decorative and that may bt better than lower-Ing a score The golf costume shown U a nowmOdel and comfortable enough to be com-

paratively practical The blotised bluea notched of white cloth trimmed

with small gold and Is worn over nloose whit blouse The bishop sleeve hasa cuff of white and the imcket set diagonally-

In the skirt shows a notched tine of white andbuttons down with Kilt buttons-

Of making new tailor gown modola there

oat-

h alloton

¬

Is apparently no end although tile continuedwarm weather IN discouraging both tailors andpatrons and many of the former are lamentingthat they opened their shop on the traditionalKept 1 Home of the recent models sketchedshow the usual features with slight variationIn trimming New York tailors Beein to beclinging more closjly to the Ctons than theirFrench colleagues though many tailor bodiceand longer coats are wen at the more ex-

clusive shopsA gown In tobacco brown serge ha

an Fton flushed with applied wallops hnavllystitched the point of each scallop being heldby a dull gold button The bottom of theskirt ha the same trimming A waistcoat ofpastel blue buttons with gold buttons and thecuffs havo an edge of blue Tho browns areperhaps the popular of all the darkercolor a season advances though theblues and greens are serious rivals njjd red U-

asHiimlng great prominence The havenever before been so beautiful n they are thisseason rich and glowing yet Innomemyiiiteriouway devoid of all cmdenees and both In gownsnnd millinery tho color Is forging to the frontA red cloth gown shown In a cut Is made witha plain bolero under which IK a bolero of whitecloth embroidered In rich Orientalcolors red predominating The bishop alcovebOA embroidered and the coat I

worn over a blouso of white lonWnesilk with red pannn collar edze and girdle

Another suit with a short jacket la of Rus-

sian blue serge A band of broad gold braidedges the jacket which U oollurless and run

half way on the Jacket fronts endingheld by large wrought gold buttons

A bund of braid nine down either hide of afront skirt breadth unit finishes at tho kneewith u point ant button

The full length travelling Is sketchedfrom A In hunter clm i with-

a of black and white dotted panneand revere edged with panneTile blouse Is slit up each tide to show an under

mOltIh

wrist bad

dow

Ionloll

I

wide Irish

reds

Inca

¬

¬

bodice of this dotted panne and In held In placeby tiny frog of black white and gold tippedwith tastuU Wristbands and girdle are ofpanne and thin skirt Is trimmed only withsmall cording of black white mid gold on theseams

The other full length sketch shows anothergreen gown trimmed with black and gold braid

I and small gold buttons A waistcoat of poleblue fasten with told strap and buttonsThl rv tu n of green and blue In vary

I

S

>

Inr anode appears In French de-

signs and I considered particularly roodEven bathrobe are feeling tho empire move-

ment nnd taking on new pretensions One

Ilroadwa firm I showing uncommon prettytunes of light blue eiderdown flannel with heavywash lace collar and brood empire br fasten-ing with huge gold button Another loung-

Ing robe In the same hop of Frenchflannel In dull blue trimmed with blue and

seen was

¬

¬

¬

gold braid nnd ecru law and n charming teaJacket nearby was mad of pink ribbon andheavy Inca Insertion with wide rIvers of heavylace Inside of which was folded a surplicefichu of creamv inou ellnp

All thin how for tho hair havoby tlm cold mlcrobo nnd bit of gold gaueribbon K twisted Into the mid thewhite satin Lows that arc MI practical

dinner and home wear

Thin fall outing are rot visions of beautyllyi eri well hatter have mad desperateefforts to e aip from the dominion of cornbrero and alpine share and tho result nrn notall that could be desired Icrhap tl e owellentand most chic of the new models Is of shaggywhite minds hair In modified sombrero Minpoand with a stitched under brim of black camelshnlr One exclusive firm U maklnif up thewohat with a folded band of black panne velvetflint pompon but the general verdict

trimming over-done an absolutely bond I thecorrect thing for nutumn outing hut

Moods which nrej much Ilko fitted yoketurned up around the edgm and lined with ncontrasting color are being used on many ofthe and Occasionally the

gold buttons

The newfluor c nt rilk U n changeable-silk under a new name but It has a new beautyas well and obtains color effects neverachieved In changeable materials

Bronze shoe are creeping hack Into favornnd many fancy shoe And slippers show bronze

Il 1 IUIII

bilk

cal IInap Ie

lion infected

or-

dinary

bate

has been

buttoned tothe with

¬

>

<

¬

In combination with pastel color A crazefor fancy and bizarre foot wear I predicted-but In splto of seasonsmany vagaries

Brown Is popular once more and n host ofwomen will look more hopelessly plain thana beneficent Providence intended Thereseems to be an Idea that any one can wearbrown In reality It U a color to be treatedwith marked respect and a woman needs deep

discretion In chooMng the exact shade of brownthat will bo becoming to her Yellow brownwill te l all the life from hair and eyes

dray brown will ruin some complexions nedbrown will make a allow skin mom sallowAnd yet the right brown on the right girl I rthing to with Touches of burnt Orangeand ear on many of brown gownsDull and certain shade or altocolnblnn well with browns yet n browncostume duet f to tcombination and unlo oneachieve a complete nymphony liWirown

choose n morn adaptable coorfor a general service coMumu

Till flare A the skirt bcttom Umodified and Iho lull cown hung rather llmrlaround tho

Next to the white cloth gowns In favorgown of light hIm and of mushroom rinkcfrth nod the ndlcatlnis are tlrt this Is to bipreeminently A eason of pale tinted cloths for

wear

Iale gray stocking Imbrcklered In silverare In demand to match thn clothofver slippers have jiitt appeared

1OYO ltM ttOMIXO

Nallre el the lilsrd living Elsewhere Foodlit Ifctliltlrc Olilllrtldrntrs

From New Ilnrn shire nnd Maine the cutorn of Home Wtek r Old Homo Week spreadthis nutumn to Connecticut It Is referredto u n w England custom mOld oxlst Incetuln other of New England New

far n the main hod of the Stnto-Is concerned Down on Long how-ever the ha teen no Institutionof Home Week a an autumnal festivalgathering there ha lone beering and Iong I landi rx am rather proudof It will tell visitors that

mid everyYear there are enough of whodomiciled liemfolve visiting theirformer homes on island to out thetruth of the deHanitinn Sol every wandererto be sure comes r n but sumrner native Long Islanders from nil parts of

black

malI to

ono

rot

I

Ynrk did not or hr1 lnnd

TIC

bear

thi fro the Sop 1-0bc or 1 110 the old home

corn

i

dIstinctly

stand

Nil 114 lilT

hartswith this rittoin

eli

noun s bong

threeelsewhere

country wren PACIfIC

S

>

¬

>

SUMMER TAN NOT ALL A JOY

FBiiixiNE mnnsxiTiiis iritKN IT-

neoixa TO fADf

Complexion HpolUd bjr To Or t Dtrotloa-U the SnnQiiefB Victoria MiUtal AccirapllihrntnUAdrtro to ITomtn a to

lo take Thtmielv DUIIktd

woman who hw returned to town nowarea the gradual disappearance of the tanwhich collected assiduously during thesummer months Unfortunately It notall eo at once Slowly her face become adingy yellow and that tint usually lasts longerthan any of the other pha thepownsor of this tinliecomlng relic uin-

mcr I asking herself why In tho world ho evertook no muoh Interest In getting brown Hhe

wonder why she ever lay hours In the bakingmm trying to get n color darker than any of

her companions could boastA coat of tan I becoming to few women

A brunette with the coloring of tier kind U

occasionally made n little more attractivewhen liar skin has grown richer and darkerfrom thin effects of the stun Dark hair andeye derive nn added beauty from a darker

and the brunette can occasionally makethe umm r experiment and riot be the looser

In thIS matter of looks Hut II the onewoman who can The blonde should avoidn lipavy coat of tan as die would the plagueIt will always bo unbecoming to any womanwith light colored hair nnd e Itlondehair Is very likely to Mench front the effect

of the summer sun mul there are enough yel

J

low

lady

she

shedoes

very

skin

>

owfaoed fadcdhaind lighteyed womennbout New York today to supply an eternalwarning against excessive tan n a summerdiversion

Yet the next summer will the same num-ber o women walking haIku

and placing In the sun delightedalon

rats

see ¬

nt of a tat of tan moiomarked than of their friends have accu-mulated Thennythlng else In women athletics to spoil

and many n girl gonefor three orfour summer without n hat hasdamaged skin to such an ont that theeffects will last during rest of her life

rh girl who has most reason to regret thelingering effects of the summer I

who Imprudently cut her bathing dresslow In th of beingfree In her motions while swimming SheIs learning now how slowly a coat Un maydisappear when one most anxlou to get

coming of the to wear low

of tan on neck and a distinctare now One came outwinter the preceding summer In the

freedom the seasonwa the last In she would not be a younglady burdened with the responsibilities so

She found whengayeties the

and contrasted most strikinglywith the white skin on this rest of

Something had to ha done because highnecked gowns were out of the question forn woman who to haw tlratIn So a necklace of pearls was verysklllfuly arranged hy her tosuch n that It the particular linewhich marked the ending of sum-mer bathing The contrast was Inway concealed Women not enoughto es beento cut their with an unfashionable-and unbecoming merelysummer tan would remain The i am troublecomes wh n the question of bodicenrlses Arm are a discolored a neckand although thorn Is thought to be a certainsmartneAs about sunburned arm In the sum-mer tune few perKon would belo that worn equally to he admiredIn n ballroom

Women returning to town add forceto the theory that few women were ever Im-

proved b allowing to getmore n little bit sunburned An exagger-ated may Improve looksdeeper tan will not unbecoming Insummer but also it cnntliinlng nuUance In thewinter monthx until It makes ltd belatedappearance

Queen Victoria boa for thin past three yearshown more Interest In music than for yearbefore The private operatic performancesgiven at Windsor by the Covent harden artlU

un

cult and markho

hell

th

luck

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hM

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the

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the armslast

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dresses

sleeveless

513

die

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i have been on evidence of the Queens enjoy-ment of muilo and the principal muilclan ofthe London season have appeared at thecastle Formerly the Queen went to the operaherself but now that I out of the question andShift must take her enjoyment cur-

tailed performance given at Windsor Now-

I somebody discovered that she ls an ex-

oillent judge of singing and wu at one

also

hastime

¬

¬

able to tlag with that cam from thea st l ndld teacher

and for eighteenyears Bo protracted a mu lcal education

rare of eouw beto a queen or a woman of wealth It

was her taste for Into her the Queen

Is as a solid Hhe ahigh opinion of her and their Inter-course that of friends than of mon

youtha orstudied music with

vII

skillnine

in her Queen IS tO

hid beautiful quaLityNbabasso

very

showed skill aa a

was

arch and subject frequently to-

gether and Victoria nothingo much t these time as in

thin dutt I from Von Giovanniwhich her Hhomany dirflcult and elaborate operatic a

us religious muslo and song

have delighted uciinlrers particu-larly the facility which read

and the correctness of her ear These

of familyhad been HO taught by Blgnor

that her voice retained powerand lung flIer the atwomen are supposed to cease singing-

A woman who has figured largely In the

affaire of her sex wni asked recently to give-

n few words of ndvlco which be of use

to women In all walks of life whatever theirparticular calling was Ono practical hintthat ho been suggested to me by long expe-

rience wrote will help any woman todevelop her facullloi My advice I bo yourMlf or be original These words may or may

not contain n much wisdom as they seem

sound rather and they hadon one woman to bring out

denunciation

make nine women out of ten IntolerableThey are bad enough when they areby Then lifeicing mentally If not actually otherwoman with they come Theyare o much of usthat they never be expected to associatewith rot of their MX on an In

I

dorm

w

Thc to lllnl1 and Is

athI

mIMIC wrl by rllMmOt fond or

Thy

the

cite

wasairs

Queen tisod be a good

shin

gifts onlyarid the late Iiike

are musiC

might

she

rnile she said 9 that willprigs

every

¬

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their were oil humdrumconventional We think about our homesour children and contemptible

tor doa wider range of observation arid nsort of for u

usually been my experience with

any woman could he Improved by Uxadvice to be original Wo a

Is like If attempts to be original InThen he Is to a

Originality In manner makes al-ternate rudeness and e

perfect frankness and of char-acter to ofthe of a woman and at aUInto public view wo Just what a

U likely to beIt Is only own sex an a rule that

any womati ever tries to be original fcheknows pretty well that that sort of Uilog never

to They like a oonvensort of woman

the man who taken ato her will discover in which time I

utterly different from Thatnil comet from the man Mmnelf It satUnes

too Hed rather discover marked char-acteristics In the girl he love have themreally In and apparent to the rest of theworld So the woman Is original with

tax Is perfectly satisfied merely or-dinary and n a possible men-

The other alternative In general advice-to women seems to me almost a dangerousalthough It I likely to mnke n woman less oan fraud Women who have made up

a novelty and I havent the least doubt that

plane by aiming at the best development ofown character and never pretending-

to bn what are not But most of those-I have known usually impress overy nenwin

the would ever want to h Ilko them Asideelfatl fled moral attitude that they

after n short there are tho awk-ward result of this uncompromising ndherencnto truth and their own natures They ore of

It and none of thorn Is topleasant and agreeable thlnr are not

on truth On the re-mark that are likely to make n disagreeableImpression are bo for thatreason not bn true to one characterto hesitate to nil the unpleasant things orebelieved H would bn very muchsomebody else Instead AltogetherI dont think that ndrlon to bn original or bnoneself would make n woman especially popularIf she followed It however

iI have known who prided themselvesonclnal must have an

tunity om tlme to lie merely themselves Inrooms and take a rest from

the strain of trying to bo originalwager that women were working sohard all the time to be themselves would have

an occasional chance to be more likethe rest of their sex

tie Knew tbe Real ThingProm Mt landon ntwrn

They had just got married Mid were startIrvg on their honeymoon The tirlde had gotthe man loved and she didnt rare whosaw her put her head on shoulder Thebridegroom got a farm with wifeIf he wanted to h r hand or feed herwith tweets whose buslnms wi A littleold man t lt the couple nd he lookedHt them o often that the young ttnjllyexplained

Just marriedI knowed the the

otherAnd we cant help It you know

i oil neern very to n oldroan like

Does It Dot unkled the old followWell I rn you It does not then 1vo

Den there time owN And now Im on

ono touchandthe rot nd t think or these

6 mindmid I

woman or Ole that to bwhIch

wan 1

to liar or

mentonal Ju

011a18 provideand

a mayfonc pints

he-ron to

their to b no means

man a

who ml Idea Inword

andIn cases where

NaITat

sti

meat or hr character Mot ofworn

A n

his

e lottme chuckle

So cal otnl

YOU

tela tIl Ile

and

dressthey a

origna1 way are too different frommat

thl origInal thedont

fright

thoae extidea seem sun exhibition

get

canvariety Ilowever common-place girl Oil

the sex

be

minds be themselves are

high

them with that

0011W prevented from showing kindnesssympathy the they

ray

t

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IN nnoostrtf

The Montauk Club of Brooklyn located nearthe entrance to Prospect Park tins enjoyedthe vogue of being the most popular summer

In town during the season past owing noto Ideal situation on Prospect Height

AH well as to the attractive methods of It gen-

eral managomont and IU chef Duvenvlto be one of the heist In this part of thuTho kitchens of the MonUuk are on routfloor In accordance with modern nrchltucturnl

its dining rouiiu are especially fnthe presence of

fat luncheons and other feasts ut which HKI

feminine presonoa not only admitted louteagerly sought for Tho women KUUSH ofthe Montauk flub have becomu entluulnKlloover the various dishes to bn haul nt thuand have sought for Infortnatloii ON to theirpreparation While this may bo with a viewto proving to their own satisfaction that clilicooking can be imulnted lit homeone of ambitious tho rest re-

cently obtained tome of Clot Dnvoiicl ownrecipes for sortie of time moat popular dlttmDented at the Montauk tablu

First Is n potage Vanderbltt sufilclon rwtwelve plates requiring n calf head nndtwo ponies of Amontlllada one pint of credonil eggs yolks and boiled rice Cleanhead and jaws thoroughly wash them In coldwater then putt In Hnucepiin with nix quartsof water And a bouquet of hay leaves al o twoleeks pnmley celery tied In buncheH oncarrot two onions and one turnip briofor three hours then roniovn tho andcnlTn head Strain tilt broth through a clothThou put lx ounces butter In n with

four tablespoon of flour Stir It withbroth and let heat for tint minutes Cut thn

parts of the head oral Jaws In small squaresadd with one half pint rico the

sherry lo the broth Thicken crearaand egg yolk and serve

Pickerel In Montauk style Is prepared inthis Select five pound of pickerel ticthe heads tall and skin off and place them In aHaucepan with some salt and pepper and twoquart of water I et heat slowly for

Then lord the pickerel some as tenderloinwagon well and wrap In white paper butteredon both sides Iut two ounces of hutter withthe fish soil cook for half an hour In n slack

Pound In a mortar a little watercresschevril parsley two anchovies Cue

clove of two aridof butter When In a paste through atine then put two ounces of butter Insievesaucepan with two of flour

fish broth Add half awhltn wine halt n of cream and the pasteallow to cook slowly ten minutes

twolvo well trimmed Thenn saucepan four ounces bacon one valves

together fine cessna with salt andnutmeg Then cut twelve sheet of preparedpaper double heart shape butter on

put a little of on eachand under a well Fold the paper aroundeach chop and twist In themIn a baking pan cook for ten minutesnerve

split nnd arranged on n one portUa

raspberry syrup over Tho syruppint raspberry

ounce powdered sugar one Maraschinothe fire saucepan when

boiling odd arrowroot dissolvedIn a water When It Is cold It willlook like Jelly and can be added to the

IceMontauk sandwiches generally served at

lure n and sire In this fashIon Pound ono pound double cream Ameri-can cheese and It three whole egvsa few drops of sauce ami cover liIamb placed on toast Cook for ten

In a oven and servo with a sllrnof bacon on each and a lace paper

under

The Brooklyn clubs hOT always been farmore hospitable to women guests than thoseof New York While there are ladle dayBO called at all the largo metropolitanthese days are rather the signal for a generaldeparting of the mancullna element nnd thoclubhouse I turned over to thin feminine In

fadert At some of the clubs notably theyachting clubs even severer methods are re-

torted to and certain panes are lined off fromhe Intrusion of n woman1 foot and here thegrizzled bachelors betake themselves to rendsod smoke until the day I at an end Drook-

yn clubs have always made a feature of enertalnmcnt for their femlnlnn friends Theirlowllng alleys have been turned over to fairithletea morning while on certain days enertnlnmcnt are provided with luncheon andnuslcal programmefl to enoouragn the presenceif the fair guest

This Idea ha rather prejudiced the Brookyn matron nnd maid In favor of club life One

lenr little over the tea tables except In antici-pation of the winters round picture view

Italian to ono athletic with n countryat hay a something to be greeted

rejoicing Thotown butt the entertainment there I

formal while at their countryscene on cummer afternoons 1 bright

Ith the color of gowns and the sound ofmlnlno voices It letup thing to drive

to spot and dinners and luncheonsre on overlooking the bay

launches arc anchorednd far Into the evening the music of banjo andtandollns sound unison with happy

Brooklyn con boast two notable womenstubs one the Clvltnn formed by the societyIris of the Heights for the discussion of politicaltatters and the Health Protective League anuptown organization of women whose avowedbject wa the healthful management of thIty the proper cleaning of the streets the ceolatlon of the schools and other

the hygiene of the people dillactual work and gained more lasting fats

han any of the various women club of hewThe fomou also an out

rowth of Brooklyn numbering thousand nfhe who used to fairly

old Academy of Music attint were under direction of

Laura President the As-

Delation The Brooklyn Women Clubeon celled the of and

feminine celebrities In literature amongs members

Tho jokes that ore oo popular with theork flat dweller at the expense of the Brooklynsldont aro really not o funny as they seem

be For thin man whoso business internalslocated In Now York thn journey each day

Bridge or ferries unpleasantdlousnes but with this exception the Brook

Is by far th gainer In tho matter of neonmy In living expenses and Inn positionhat con d Inhurcbc Incomu that would providelorn than the haP rent of amnt on this side of thn Bridge Very

apartment arei the choicest n thot rentals that would only provide restricted

a Hut sportlent will tM vi r l r In a

are In this boroiigi for the ron tl-Mt the average ideas of coolseem to a home arid nwhile the metropolitan glut dweller never

ulte reaches Ivor the Ilriikv-lerefcre far out In the new portions pretty

go In rows that re pec-hlllty In their line These are

of modern Improvement ar-

tlh other human of whom they know nothingid for they never onnihloned Yet the aversenw York and woman especially thoman Idea of their ten

continue to serenely nt Brooklynivantnge

FRECKLEStan moth blotches and rtdiscoloration of the skinand complexion speedily and

athome Full Information

S with bopk mailed free

JOHN H WOODBURY W 214 near Ctir-

nndltjj Coftnmrrsr-

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