Overview: a newly-developed cliff in the Cheakamus Canyon area with a good selecon of short steep power-endurance routes and a very quick approach. Condions: the cliff faces east with an open aspect so it gets plenty of sun unl noon, but is then in full shade. Aside from some finishing holds, the steeper routes stay dry in the rain. Approach: park at the base of the Conroy Creek FSR as for the Sport Temple zone and The Gym (see page 316 of Squamish Select). Staying on the east side of the 99, locate the yellow gate a few metres from your vehicle. Go under the gate (watch where you step) onto a dirt road in a clear-cut heading south-east. Stroll along this for two minutes. The cliff is obvious on the right. Access issues: the Substaon was named aﬅer a mystery electrical facility located about 50m further south; this was eventually discovered to be part of a cellular antenna installaon that has since (~June 2016) been decommisioned and dismantled. From conversaons with contractors removing material, it seems there is no plan to resume acve use. Thanks to: CASBC and Tyrone Bre for hardware donaons. The Routes: 1. Zero Bars 5.11b êê Chris Hecimovic, July 2016 Solve the entertaining boulder problem at the first bolt (V2, apparently) then wander up the moderate slab. 4 bolts. 2. Leakage Flux 5.10d êê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Chris Hecimovic, April 2016 Like the previous route except the boulder problem is easier and more obvious, and the slab is more interesng. Not a good warm-up. 5 bolts. 3. Crosstalk 5.12b êêêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, April 2016 Swing leﬅwards up the diagonal rail to the giant hold then move right and up the headwall. Connuously interesng climbing. 5 bolts. 4. Incandescence 5.13a êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, August 2016 The fierce central line. 4 bolts, fixed quickdraws. (Bolts to the leﬅ are an abandoned variant,"the pinch project".) 5. Impedance Wave 5.12c êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, June 2016 The aesthec right-trending line with a wild finishing move off ny crimps. Sausage-fingered climbers may struggle. 4 bolts, fixed quickdraws. 6. Inductance 5.10b êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Kay Wong, September 2015 Fun jug-pulling. A slightly less juggy crux guards the chains. A good warm-up. 4 bolts. THE SUB STATION

THE SUB STATIONfoordkelcey.net/substation.pdf2. Leakage Flux 5.10d êê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Chris Hecimovic, April 2016 Like the previous route except the boulder problem is easier

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Page 1: THE SUB STATIONfoordkelcey.net/substation.pdf2. Leakage Flux 5.10d êê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Chris Hecimovic, April 2016 Like the previous route except the boulder problem is easier

Overview: a newly-developed cliff in the Cheakamus Canyon area with a good selection of short steep power-endurance routes and a very quick approach.

Conditions: the cliff faces east with an open aspect so it gets plenty of sun until noon, but is then in full shade. Aside from some finishing holds, the steeper routes stay dry in the rain.

Approach: park at the base of the Conroy Creek FSR as for the Sport Temple zone and The Gym (see page 316 of Squamish Select). Staying on the east side of the 99, locate the yellow gate a few metres from your vehicle. Go under the gate (watch where you step) onto a dirt road in a clear-cut heading south-east. Stroll along this for two minutes. The cliff is obvious on the right.

Access issues: the Substation was named after a mystery electrical facility located about 50m further south; this was eventually discovered to be part of a cellular antenna installation that has since (~June 2016) been decommisioned and dismantled. From conversations with contractors removing material, it seems there is no plan to resume active use.

Thanks to: CASBC and Tyrone Brett for hardware donations.The Routes:

1. Zero Bars 5.11b êê Chris Hecimovic, July 2016Solve the entertaining boulder problem at the first bolt (V2, apparently) then wander up the moderate slab. 4 bolts.

2. Leakage Flux 5.10d êê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Chris Hecimovic, April 2016Like the previous route except the boulder problem is easier and more obvious, and the slab is more interesting. Not a good warm-up. 5 bolts.

3. Crosstalk 5.12b êêêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, April 2016Swing leftwards up the diagonal rail to the giant hold then move right and up the headwall. Continuously interesting climbing. 5 bolts.

4. Incandescence 5.13a êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, August 2016The fierce central line. 4 bolts, fixed quickdraws. (Bolts to the left are an abandoned variant,"the pinch project".)

5. Impedance Wave 5.12c êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, June 2016The aesthetic right-trending line with a wild finishing move off tiny crimps. Sausage-fingered climbers may struggle. 4 bolts, fixed quickdraws.

6. Inductance 5.10b êêê Toby Foord-Kelcey, Kay Wong, September 2015Fun jug-pulling. A slightly less juggy crux guards the chains. A good warm-up. 4 bolts.

THESUB

STATION