The Square

T H E S Q U A R E

T H E C O O K B O O K

V O L U M E 1 :

S A V O U R Y

P H I L I P H O W A R D

To Jen, Millie and Ali, and Greg, who I miss.

T H E S Q U A R E

T H E C O O K B O O K

V O L U M E 1 :

S A V O U R Y

P H I L I P H O W A R D

To Jen, Millie and Ali, and Greg, who I miss.

First published in Great Britain in 2012 by Absolute Press, an imprint ofBloomsbury Publishing Plc

Absolute PressScarborough House29 James Street WestBath BA1 2BTPhone 44 (0) 1225 316013Fax 44 (0) 1225 445836E-mail [email protected] www.absolutepress.co.uk

Text copyright © Philip Howard, 2012Photography copyright © Jean Cazals

Publisher Jon CroftCommissioning Editor Meg AventArt DirectorMatt InwoodPhotographer Jean CazalsEditor Jane MiddletonIndexerAnn ParryProofreaderLucy Bridgers

The rights of Philip Howard to beidentified as the author of this work havebeen asserted by him in accordance withthe Copyright Designs and Patents Act1988.

All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic orotherwise, without the prior permissionof Absolute Press.

A catalogue record of this book isavailable from the British Library

ISBN: 9781906650599

Printed in China by South China Printing Company,Dongguan, Guangdong

A note about the textThis book is set in Minion and Helvetica Neue. Minion was created by Robert Slimbach, inspired by fonts of the late Renaissance. Helvetica wasdesigned in 1957 by Max Miedinger ofthe Swiss-based Haas foundry. In theearly 1980s, Linotype redrew the entireHelvetica family. The result wasHelvetica Neue.

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DPwww.bloomsbury.com

6 INTRODUCT ION

20 BAS ICS

4 0 AMUSE-BOUCHES

62 SOUPS AND CONSOMMÉS

104 SALADS

1 48 FROM THE COLD LARDER

190 FROM THE HOT LARDER

214 PASTA

2 52 R ISOTTO

276 SHELLF ISH

3 18 F ISH

402 MEAT

4 64 GAME

516 SUPPL IERS 5 18 INDEX 5 26 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

First published in Great Britain in 2012 by Absolute Press, an imprint ofBloomsbury Publishing Plc

Absolute PressScarborough House29 James Street WestBath BA1 2BTPhone 44 (0) 1225 316013Fax 44 (0) 1225 445836E-mail [email protected] www.absolutepress.co.uk

Text copyright © Philip Howard, 2012Photography copyright © Jean Cazals

Publisher Jon CroftCommissioning Editor Meg AventArt DirectorMatt InwoodPhotographer Jean CazalsEditor Jane MiddletonIndexerAnn ParryProofreaderLucy Bridgers

The rights of Philip Howard to beidentified as the author of this work havebeen asserted by him in accordance withthe Copyright Designs and Patents Act1988.

All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic orotherwise, without the prior permissionof Absolute Press.

A catalogue record of this book isavailable from the British Library

ISBN: 9781906650599

Printed in China by South China Printing Company,Dongguan, Guangdong

A note about the textThis book is set in Minion and Helvetica Neue. Minion was created by Robert Slimbach, inspired by fonts of the late Renaissance. Helvetica wasdesigned in 1957 by Max Miedinger ofthe Swiss-based Haas foundry. In theearly 1980s, Linotype redrew the entireHelvetica family. The result wasHelvetica Neue.

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DPwww.bloomsbury.com

6 INTRODUCT ION

20 BAS ICS

4 0 AMUSE-BOUCHES

62 SOUPS AND CONSOMMÉS

104 SALADS

1 48 FROM THE COLD LARDER

190 FROM THE HOT LARDER

214 PASTA

2 52 R ISOTTO

276 SHELLF ISH

3 18 F ISH

402 MEAT

4 64 GAME

516 SUPPL IERS 5 18 INDEX 5 26 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Amuse-bouches ese small ‘gis from the chef ’ are contentious little dishes, but the evolution of fine dining has brought them to our tables.If delivered swily and without pomp, they are simply anadditional treat and need no more debate. eir purpose can be confused: some see them as a palate cleanser, preparing thediner’s system for what lies ahead; some simply as a lightopening course to set the tone. For me, they are an importantpart of the meal. It is the opening set from the kitchen and,whilst an amuse-bouche should be petite, it should also make a big impact. Anyone who has chosen to walk through the frontdoor of e Square has, in doing so, made a clear statementabout the enthusiasm with which they approach their eating,and in my book this opener should deliver flavour throughrefined and sensuous means.

Over the years we have served a multitude of different dishes,but the format that has served us best, and in my opinion ticksall the boxes, is the one demonstrated by the four seasonalvariations in this chapter. A delicate mousse is topped with a jelly (or purée) and then a foam. e flavours are alwaysharmonious and classical, but delivering them in this way givesrise to a sensuous launch into the world of subtle, refinedflavours and textures. ese little assemblies are served with acrisp garnish on the side to provide an appropriately flavoured,but texturally contrasting backdrop.

Amuse-bouches ese small ‘gis from the chef ’ are contentious little dishes, but the evolution of fine dining has brought them to our tables.If delivered swily and without pomp, they are simply anadditional treat and need no more debate. eir purpose can be confused: some see them as a palate cleanser, preparing thediner’s system for what lies ahead; some simply as a lightopening course to set the tone. For me, they are an importantpart of the meal. It is the opening set from the kitchen and,whilst an amuse-bouche should be petite, it should also make a big impact. Anyone who has chosen to walk through the frontdoor of e Square has, in doing so, made a clear statementabout the enthusiasm with which they approach their eating,and in my book this opener should deliver flavour throughrefined and sensuous means.

Over the years we have served a multitude of different dishes,but the format that has served us best, and in my opinion ticksall the boxes, is the one demonstrated by the four seasonalvariations in this chapter. A delicate mousse is topped with a jelly (or purée) and then a foam. e flavours are alwaysharmonious and classical, but delivering them in this way givesrise to a sensuous launch into the world of subtle, refinedflavours and textures. ese little assemblies are served with acrisp garnish on the side to provide an appropriately flavoured,but texturally contrasting backdrop.

42 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury AmuSE-BouChES 43

CEP BAVAROIS, ROAST CHICKEN JELLY,THYME FOAM AND ONION TART

SERVES 20

Roast chicken with ceps,thyme and onions is about asharmonious a gathering offlavours as possible. e fourgo so well together. It is afaultless, complete andunquestionable combinationand here, presented in eSquare’s standard amuse-bouche format of bavarois,jelly, foam and crisp garnish,it provides a small, rich andsensuous kick-off to anautumn meal.

ovErvIEW

e ceps are lightly sweated,covered and cooked withcream, then blended to asmooth purée. is is set withgelatine, aerated andenriched with whippedcream, and set in shot glasses.e bavarois is topped with anaturally set roast chickenconsommé and finished witha fragrant thyme foam, madeby infusing cream withonions and thyme anddispensing it through a foamgun (see page 19). e glass isserved with a slice of a crisp,puff-pastry-based onion tart.

FoCuS oN

Use fresh ceps. Frozen ordried are simply not the sameand bring a mustiness to thedish that is vastly inferior tothe flavour of a fresh cep.

Cold, set consommé can havea rather muted flavour, butaccurate seasoning willresolve this. Taste the stockcarefully before it sets,remembering that it will beserved cold and can thereforetake full seasoning.

Try to source woody ratherthan so thyme, as it has themost intense aroma.

Generous quantities infusedbriefly give better results thanstewing smaller quantities forlonger.

Go to the lengths of turningand baking the tart on thesecond side. is will ensureyou achieve a slim, crispfinish.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Roast chicken jellyCep bavaroisyme foamOnion tart

tImINg

Most of this dish can bestarted a day in advance, andcertainly the jelly must be.Make the roast chicken stockthe day before and clarify itthen too, if desired. e cepbavarois, thyme foam baseand caramelised onions forthe tart can all be done theday before. All that is thenle on the day, a couple ofhours before serving, is to setthe mousse and jelly in theglass, warm up the foam andbake the onion tart.

42 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury AmuSE-BouChES 43

CEP BAVAROIS, ROAST CHICKEN JELLY,THYME FOAM AND ONION TART

SERVES 20

Roast chicken with ceps,thyme and onions is about asharmonious a gathering offlavours as possible. e fourgo so well together. It is afaultless, complete andunquestionable combinationand here, presented in eSquare’s standard amuse-bouche format of bavarois,jelly, foam and crisp garnish,it provides a small, rich andsensuous kick-off to anautumn meal.

ovErvIEW

e ceps are lightly sweated,covered and cooked withcream, then blended to asmooth purée. is is set withgelatine, aerated andenriched with whippedcream, and set in shot glasses.e bavarois is topped with anaturally set roast chickenconsommé and finished witha fragrant thyme foam, madeby infusing cream withonions and thyme anddispensing it through a foamgun (see page 19). e glass isserved with a slice of a crisp,puff-pastry-based onion tart.

FoCuS oN

Use fresh ceps. Frozen ordried are simply not the sameand bring a mustiness to thedish that is vastly inferior tothe flavour of a fresh cep.

Cold, set consommé can havea rather muted flavour, butaccurate seasoning willresolve this. Taste the stockcarefully before it sets,remembering that it will beserved cold and can thereforetake full seasoning.

Try to source woody ratherthan so thyme, as it has themost intense aroma.

Generous quantities infusedbriefly give better results thanstewing smaller quantities forlonger.

Go to the lengths of turningand baking the tart on thesecond side. is will ensureyou achieve a slim, crispfinish.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Roast chicken jellyCep bavaroisyme foamOnion tart

tImINg

Most of this dish can bestarted a day in advance, andcertainly the jelly must be.Make the roast chicken stockthe day before and clarify itthen too, if desired. e cepbavarois, thyme foam baseand caramelised onions forthe tart can all be done theday before. All that is thenle on the day, a couple ofhours before serving, is to setthe mousse and jelly in theglass, warm up the foam andbake the onion tart.

SAlADS 129128 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

INgrEDIENtS

WIlD DuCk

4 mallards, weighing 700–750g each200g rock salt½ teaspoon peppercorns, crushed1 garlic clove, finely sliced2 sprigs of thyme, chopped500g duck fat, melted

CArAmElISED vEgEtABlES

4 small parsnips8 small carrots4 small parsley roots3 tablespoons duck fata dusting of icing sugar4 small red onions25ml grapeseed oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

DrESSINg

1 tablespoon currants, soaked in 3 tablespoons port for 24 hours

zest of ¼ orange1 tablespoon grapeseed oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegar1 tablespoon elderberries

othEr INgrEDIENtS

100g trompettes de la mort mushrooms, trimmed1 beetroot, peeled1/8 celeriac, peeled1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying1 tablespoon hazelnut oil200g foie gras, cut into 8 slices300g mixed autumnal baby leaves, such as ruby chard

and beetroot

mEthoD

WIlD DuCk

Remove the legs from the mallards. Mix the salt, peppercorns,garlic and thyme together and sprinkle a quarter over the baseof a small dish. Press both sides of the legs into the remainingsalt mixture and place in the dish. Sprinkle any leovermixture over the top and leave for 3 hours.

Rinse the salt mixture off the legs and leave to soak underrunning water for 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Place in asmall casserole, cover with the duck fat and bring to a simmer.Cover the pan, transfer to an oven preheated to 110°C/GasMark ¼ and cook for 1½ hours. Remove the pan from theoven, li the legs out and gently press the meat; it shouldcome away from the bone. If not, replace in the oven and keepcooking until it does, checking every 10 minutes or so. Oncecooked, leave the duck legs to cool in the fat. Remove them,li off the skin, flake the meat off the bone and set aside onkitchen paper.


Peel the parsnips, carrots and parsley roots, trim off the topand bottom, cut them all in half lengthways and then in halflengthways again. Now cut the tough core out. Cut thevegetable pieces in half lengthways once more. Keep thevegetables separate.

Take 3 ovenproof frying pans that will accommodate each type of vegetable in a single layer and place over a high heat.Add a tablespoon of duck fat to each pan, then add thevegetables, one type in each. Season with salt and pepper andcook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until they just startto colour. Transfer, still in their pans, to an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. e vegetables should be golden and chewy.Remove from the oven, dust with a single coating of icing sugarthrough a sieve, then return to the oven for 5 minutes. Removefrom the oven again and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Drain in acolander and set aside on kitchen paper at room temperature.

Peel the red onions without damaging the underlying layers,then cut them into slices 3mm thick. Place a pan large enoughto hold the slices in one layer over a high heat for 2 minutes.Add the grapeseed oil, sprinkle the pan with a generous pinchof salt and add the onions, ensuring the slices stay intact. Turnup the heat and fry the onions for 3–4 minutes, until almostblackened. Turn them carefully, trying to keep them intact,and colour the second side. Drain in a colander, then add thesherry vinegar. Run a fork through the onions to loosen all therings and set aside on kitchen paper.

DrESSINg

Warm through the port-soaked currants, then take 1 tablespoon of the port and put it in a bowl with the orangezest, grapeseed oil and sherry vinegar. Whisk vigorously andseason with salt and pepper. Add the currants and elderberriesand set aside at room temperature.

to FINISh

Wash the trompettes in a generous quantity of cold water, dry in a salad spinner and leave them on a kitchen cloth for 20 minutes. Using a slicer or a mandoline, slice the beetrootand celeriac as thinly as possible. Heat the vegetable oil to160°C in a deep-fat fryer or a deep pan. Spread the vegetablesout on a kitchen cloth, place another cloth on top and pressdown firmly to remove excess moisture. Now, a few slices at a time, place the beetroot in the oil and deep-fry until nomoisture is le, at which point the sizzling will stop. Removewith a slotted spoon and drain thoroughly on kitchen paper.Repeat with the celeriac.

Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add thehazelnut oil, followed by the mushrooms. Season with salt andpepper and sauté for 1 minute. Drain and set aside on kitchenpaper.

to SErvE

An hour before serving, cook the mallard breasts, still on thecarcass: season the skin, then lightly brown the birds in afrying pan in 1 tablespoon of the duck fat. Transfer to aroasting tray and cook for 8–12 minutes in an oven preheatedto 170°C/Gas Mark 3. Wild birds vary in fat content and size,so cooking times will vary also, but a 575g mallard crownshould take approximately 10 minutes to cook medium rare.Remove from the oven and allow to rest, reserving any juices.Whisk a tablespoon of the juices from cooking the duck intothe dressing. Remove the mallard breasts from the bone,season the flesh side with salt and pepper and carve into long,thin strips. Place the roasted root vegetables, onions and theduck breast and leg meat in a large bowl, add 2 tablespoons ofthe dressing and toss. Place the bowl in an oven preheated to110°C/Gas Mark ¼ for 5 minutes. Remove and mixthoroughly again.

At the last moment, heat a large, heavy-based pan over a highheat for 2 minutes. Season the slices of foie gras and fry for 30 seconds on each side. ey should feel so in the centrewhen cooked. Remove immediately from the pan and setaside on kitchen paper.

Place the salad leaves in a large bowl and dress with ½tablespoon of the dressing. Place three-quarters of the leavesin the centre of 8 plates, divide the duck mix between themand tease it out over the leaves, ensuring that it looksattractive. Tuck the remaining leaves here and there over thetop of the salad. Garnish with the trompettes de la mort andthe foie gras, then finish with the deep-fried vegetables and adrizzle of the remaining vinaigrette.


INgrEDIENtS

WIlD DuCk

4 mallards, weighing 700–750g each200g rock salt½ teaspoon peppercorns, crushed1 garlic clove, finely sliced2 sprigs of thyme, chopped500g duck fat, melted


4 small parsnips8 small carrots4 small parsley roots3 tablespoons duck fata dusting of icing sugar4 small red onions25ml grapeseed oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

DrESSINg

1 tablespoon currants, soaked in 3 tablespoons port for 24 hours

zest of ¼ orange1 tablespoon grapeseed oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegar1 tablespoon elderberries

othEr INgrEDIENtS

100g trompettes de la mort mushrooms, trimmed1 beetroot, peeled1/8 celeriac, peeled1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying1 tablespoon hazelnut oil200g foie gras, cut into 8 slices300g mixed autumnal baby leaves, such as ruby chard

and beetroot

mEthoD

WIlD DuCk

Remove the legs from the mallards. Mix the salt, peppercorns,garlic and thyme together and sprinkle a quarter over the baseof a small dish. Press both sides of the legs into the remainingsalt mixture and place in the dish. Sprinkle any leovermixture over the top and leave for 3 hours.

Rinse the salt mixture off the legs and leave to soak underrunning water for 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Place in asmall casserole, cover with the duck fat and bring to a simmer.Cover the pan, transfer to an oven preheated to 110°C/GasMark ¼ and cook for 1½ hours. Remove the pan from theoven, li the legs out and gently press the meat; it shouldcome away from the bone. If not, replace in the oven and keepcooking until it does, checking every 10 minutes or so. Oncecooked, leave the duck legs to cool in the fat. Remove them,li off the skin, flake the meat off the bone and set aside onkitchen paper.


Peel the parsnips, carrots and parsley roots, trim off the topand bottom, cut them all in half lengthways and then in halflengthways again. Now cut the tough core out. Cut thevegetable pieces in half lengthways once more. Keep thevegetables separate.

Take 3 ovenproof frying pans that will accommodate each type of vegetable in a single layer and place over a high heat.Add a tablespoon of duck fat to each pan, then add thevegetables, one type in each. Season with salt and pepper andcook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until they just startto colour. Transfer, still in their pans, to an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. e vegetables should be golden and chewy.Remove from the oven, dust with a single coating of icing sugarthrough a sieve, then return to the oven for 5 minutes. Removefrom the oven again and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Drain in acolander and set aside on kitchen paper at room temperature.

Peel the red onions without damaging the underlying layers,then cut them into slices 3mm thick. Place a pan large enoughto hold the slices in one layer over a high heat for 2 minutes.Add the grapeseed oil, sprinkle the pan with a generous pinchof salt and add the onions, ensuring the slices stay intact. Turnup the heat and fry the onions for 3–4 minutes, until almostblackened. Turn them carefully, trying to keep them intact,and colour the second side. Drain in a colander, then add thesherry vinegar. Run a fork through the onions to loosen all therings and set aside on kitchen paper.

DrESSINg

Warm through the port-soaked currants, then take 1 tablespoon of the port and put it in a bowl with the orangezest, grapeseed oil and sherry vinegar. Whisk vigorously andseason with salt and pepper. Add the currants and elderberriesand set aside at room temperature.

to FINISh

Wash the trompettes in a generous quantity of cold water, dry in a salad spinner and leave them on a kitchen cloth for 20 minutes. Using a slicer or a mandoline, slice the beetrootand celeriac as thinly as possible. Heat the vegetable oil to160°C in a deep-fat fryer or a deep pan. Spread the vegetablesout on a kitchen cloth, place another cloth on top and pressdown firmly to remove excess moisture. Now, a few slices at a time, place the beetroot in the oil and deep-fry until nomoisture is le, at which point the sizzling will stop. Removewith a slotted spoon and drain thoroughly on kitchen paper.Repeat with the celeriac.

Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add thehazelnut oil, followed by the mushrooms. Season with salt andpepper and sauté for 1 minute. Drain and set aside on kitchenpaper.

to SErvE

An hour before serving, cook the mallard breasts, still on thecarcass: season the skin, then lightly brown the birds in afrying pan in 1 tablespoon of the duck fat. Transfer to aroasting tray and cook for 8–12 minutes in an oven preheatedto 170°C/Gas Mark 3. Wild birds vary in fat content and size,so cooking times will vary also, but a 575g mallard crownshould take approximately 10 minutes to cook medium rare.Remove from the oven and allow to rest, reserving any juices.Whisk a tablespoon of the juices from cooking the duck intothe dressing. Remove the mallard breasts from the bone,season the flesh side with salt and pepper and carve into long,thin strips. Place the roasted root vegetables, onions and theduck breast and leg meat in a large bowl, add 2 tablespoons ofthe dressing and toss. Place the bowl in an oven preheated to110°C/Gas Mark ¼ for 5 minutes. Remove and mixthoroughly again.

At the last moment, heat a large, heavy-based pan over a highheat for 2 minutes. Season the slices of foie gras and fry for 30 seconds on each side. ey should feel so in the centrewhen cooked. Remove immediately from the pan and setaside on kitchen paper.

Place the salad leaves in a large bowl and dress with ½tablespoon of the dressing. Place three-quarters of the leavesin the centre of 8 plates, divide the duck mix between themand tease it out over the leaves, ensuring that it looksattractive. Tuck the remaining leaves here and there over thetop of the salad. Garnish with the trompettes de la mort andthe foie gras, then finish with the deep-fried vegetables and adrizzle of the remaining vinaigrette.


SALAD OF SKATE, SWISS CHARD, SALSIFY ANDSPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH CLAM BEIGNETS ANDA RED WINE, ANCHOVY AND GARLIC DRESSING

SERVES 8

In the depths of winter,salads are not often what wewant to eat and, to makematters worse, there is ashortage of seasonalingredients to work with.This is an assembly ofdelicate flavours andtextures, all acting as avehicle for a powerful anddelicious dressing.

ovErvIEW

e skate wing is steamedand the unique strands offlesh lied off the bone. evegetables are cooked untiltender and the two are servedwarm with an emulsifieddressing made from red wine,anchovies and garlic. edish is garnished with a clammayonnaise, clam beignetsand baby ruby chard leaves.

FoCuS oN

Skate can be verydisappointing. Buy thefreshest of wings, skinned onboth sides.

Source young, freshvegetables – chard withbright green tops, firm salsifyand crisp green sproutingbroccoli.

Small palourdes are the rightclams for this dish. ey yielda fantastic-flavoured cookingliquor for the mayonnaise andare tender when deep-fried.

e dressing requiresjudgement. Follow the recipebut taste it carefully to ensureit is balanced.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Red wine, anchovy and garlicdressingClam mayonnaiseVegetablesBeer batterSkate

tImINg

As with all salads, vitality isthe key. Everything but theclam mayonnaise must bedone within 2 hours ofserving to avoid having tostore anything in the fridge.e only last-minute tasks,however, are cooking theskate and deep-frying theclam beignets.


SALAD OF SKATE, SWISS CHARD, SALSIFY ANDSPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH CLAM BEIGNETS ANDA RED WINE, ANCHOVY AND GARLIC DRESSING

SERVES 8

In the depths of winter,salads are not often what wewant to eat and, to makematters worse, there is ashortage of seasonalingredients to work with.This is an assembly ofdelicate flavours andtextures, all acting as avehicle for a powerful anddelicious dressing.

ovErvIEW

e skate wing is steamedand the unique strands offlesh lied off the bone. evegetables are cooked untiltender and the two are servedwarm with an emulsifieddressing made from red wine,anchovies and garlic. edish is garnished with a clammayonnaise, clam beignetsand baby ruby chard leaves.

FoCuS oN

Skate can be verydisappointing. Buy thefreshest of wings, skinned onboth sides.

Source young, freshvegetables – chard withbright green tops, firm salsifyand crisp green sproutingbroccoli.

Small palourdes are the rightclams for this dish. ey yielda fantastic-flavoured cookingliquor for the mayonnaise andare tender when deep-fried.

e dressing requiresjudgement. Follow the recipebut taste it carefully to ensureit is balanced.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Red wine, anchovy and garlicdressingClam mayonnaiseVegetablesBeer batterSkate

tImINg

As with all salads, vitality isthe key. Everything but theclam mayonnaise must bedone within 2 hours ofserving to avoid having tostore anything in the fridge.e only last-minute tasks,however, are cooking theskate and deep-frying theclam beignets.


INgrEDIENtS

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

80 palourde clams (about 3kg)100ml dry white wine1 egg yolk1 teaspoon Dijon mustardjuice of ½ lemon225ml grapeseed oil

rED WINE, ANChovy AND gArlIC DrESSINg

185ml Barolo or similar red wine5 garlic cloves, cut in half and any green sprout removed5 anchovies½ bay leaf25ml extra virgin olive oil25ml oil from the anchovies50g unsalted butter, at room temperature

vEgEtABlES

1 tablespoon plain flour2 large stalks of Swiss chard4 x 20cm pieces of salsifyjuice of 1 lemon16 slim heads of sprouting broccoli4 celery sticks8 Ratte potatoes

BEEr BAttEr

330ml beer250g plain flour12g fresh yeasta pinch of sugar

thE SkAtE

4 x 300g skate wings, skinned on both sides – ask yourfishmonger to trim the cartilaginous bone running aroundthe top and two sides of the wings.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying1 punnet of baby ruby chard leaves, any tough stems removed½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oila squeeze of lemon juice

mEthoD

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

Place a large, heavy-based pan over a high heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the clams, followed by the white wine, and coverwith a lid. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until all the clams have opened.Remove from the heat and drain through a colander, reservingthe cooking liquor. Once cool enough to handle, pick the clamsout of the shell and set aside, covered, in the fridge.

Pass the clam cooking liquor through a fine sieve into a pan.Boil until reduced to 50ml, then transfer to a blender andallow to cool for 5 minutes. Add the egg yolk, mustard, lemonjuice, a pinch of salt and several twists of a pepper mill. Blendbriefly to homogenise. With the blender on, add the grapeseedoil in a slow, steady stream to give a rich clam mayonnaise.Check and adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a squeezybottle or a bowl and set aside in the fridge.


Place the red wine, garlic, anchovies and bay leaf in a heavy-basedpan and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil, then turndown the heat and simmer until the red wine has reduced to thelevel of the garlic. Add the olive oil and the oil from the anchovies,return to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to standfor 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to arich, velvety purée. Add the butter and blend for a minute longerto ensure it is completely emulsified. Taste the dressing. Whilst itshould taste heavily of red wine, it should be in balance with theanchovies, garlic, olive oil and butter. If it lacks clout, either add araw anchovy or two or reduce some more red wine and add that.e final dressing should have immense flavour and should be

thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl andset aside, covered, in a warm place.

vEgEtABlES

Whisk the flour into 100ml cold water until smooth. Place alarge pan of well-salted water over a high heat. Add the flourmix, whisk to incorporate and bring to the boil. is ‘blanc’will keep the salsify and chard white while they cook.

Snap the top of the Swiss chard – i.e. the green, leafy part andthe narrower part of the stalk – and draw it away, removingany strings with it. Snap the other end off, drawing it similarlydown the other side. Cut the chard into 10cm lengths andcook in the boiling blanc until just tender – this will varyaccording to thickness but may take 4–5 minutes. Removefrom the blanc with a slotted spoon, refresh in iced water for10 seconds, then drain and set aside, covered, on kitchenpaper at room temperature.

Peel the salsify and place immediately in a bowl of water withthe lemon juice added. Cut each salsify piece in half. Transferto the boiling blanc, turn down the heat and cook gently untiljust tender. e time for this will also depend on the thicknessof the salsify. Drain, refresh in iced water for 30 seconds andset aside as for the chard.

Trim any leaves off the stems of the broccoli. Bring a large panof salted water to the boil, add the broccoli and cook until justtender. Remove and refresh in iced water for 1 minute, thenset aside as above. Top and tail the celery sticks and peel –ensuring you don't remove too much of the stem. Cut theminto 10cm lengths and cut each length in half down themiddle. Blanch for 30 seconds, refresh in iced water for 15 seconds and set aside with the other vegetables.

Place the potatoes in a pan, cover with water, season with saltand bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a baresimmer until just tender. Remove from the heat and set asideto cool in the cooking water. With a paring knife, li the skinsoff the potatoes, top and tail them, then return them to thewater and set aside at room temperature.

BEEr BAttEr

Whisk 100ml of the beer into the flour until smooth. Crumblein the yeast and whisk again until smooth. Gradually whisk inthe remaining beer. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt and setaside, covered, in a warm place for 30 minutes.

to SErvE

Season the skate with salt and cook in a steamer (or poach justbelow boiling point in a large pan of salted water) for 8 minutes.Remove from the steamer and use a palette knife to scrape offthe gelatinous membrane by gently scraping from the thick tothe thin side of the wing. Similarly, but scraping in the oppositedirection, remove any dark surface meat from each wing. Now,with a carving knife, remove the meat from both sides of thewing by cutting horizontally from the thin side to the thick.Transfer the skate to a tray and cover with cling film.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop the Swisschard in for 5 seconds, then remove and transfer to a bowl.Add 1 tablespoon of the red wine dressing and toss gently.Repeat this for the salsify and celery. Warm the potatoesthrough in their cooking water, drain and cut into slices 5mm thick. Transfer to a bowl and toss gently with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Plunge the broccoli into theboiling water for 5 seconds, drain and set aside.

Heat the oil to 200°C in a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep, heavy-based pan. Add all the clams to the beer batter, li out again witha fork and deep-fry in batches until golden and crisp. Season withsalt and set aside on kitchen paper.

Lay out 8 plates and divide three-quarters of the vegetablesbetween them. Teasing the skate into strands, arrange it over thevegetables. Finish with the remaining vegetables. Shake the bottleof clam mayonnaise to ensure it is fluid and squeeze little dots ofthis over the skate and around the salad. Dress the ruby chardleaves with the olive oil and lemon juice and place 10 or so leaveson each salad. Drizzle with a final bit of red wine dressing andgarnish with the clam beignets.


INgrEDIENtS

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

80 palourde clams (about 3kg)100ml dry white wine1 egg yolk1 teaspoon Dijon mustardjuice of ½ lemon225ml grapeseed oil


185ml Barolo or similar red wine5 garlic cloves, cut in half and any green sprout removed5 anchovies½ bay leaf25ml extra virgin olive oil25ml oil from the anchovies50g unsalted butter, at room temperature

vEgEtABlES

1 tablespoon plain flour2 large stalks of Swiss chard4 x 20cm pieces of salsifyjuice of 1 lemon16 slim heads of sprouting broccoli4 celery sticks8 Ratte potatoes

BEEr BAttEr

330ml beer250g plain flour12g fresh yeasta pinch of sugar

thE SkAtE

4 x 300g skate wings, skinned on both sides – ask yourfishmonger to trim the cartilaginous bone running aroundthe top and two sides of the wings.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying1 punnet of baby ruby chard leaves, any tough stems removed½ tablespoon extra virgin olive oila squeeze of lemon juice

mEthoD

ClAm mAyoNNAISE

Place a large, heavy-based pan over a high heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the clams, followed by the white wine, and coverwith a lid. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until all the clams have opened.Remove from the heat and drain through a colander, reservingthe cooking liquor. Once cool enough to handle, pick the clamsout of the shell and set aside, covered, in the fridge.

Pass the clam cooking liquor through a fine sieve into a pan.Boil until reduced to 50ml, then transfer to a blender andallow to cool for 5 minutes. Add the egg yolk, mustard, lemonjuice, a pinch of salt and several twists of a pepper mill. Blendbriefly to homogenise. With the blender on, add the grapeseedoil in a slow, steady stream to give a rich clam mayonnaise.Check and adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a squeezybottle or a bowl and set aside in the fridge.


Place the red wine, garlic, anchovies and bay leaf in a heavy-basedpan and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil, then turndown the heat and simmer until the red wine has reduced to thelevel of the garlic. Add the olive oil and the oil from the anchovies,return to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to standfor 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to arich, velvety purée. Add the butter and blend for a minute longerto ensure it is completely emulsified. Taste the dressing. Whilst itshould taste heavily of red wine, it should be in balance with theanchovies, garlic, olive oil and butter. If it lacks clout, either add araw anchovy or two or reduce some more red wine and add that.e final dressing should have immense flavour and should be

thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl andset aside, covered, in a warm place.

vEgEtABlES

Whisk the flour into 100ml cold water until smooth. Place alarge pan of well-salted water over a high heat. Add the flourmix, whisk to incorporate and bring to the boil. is ‘blanc’will keep the salsify and chard white while they cook.

Snap the top of the Swiss chard – i.e. the green, leafy part andthe narrower part of the stalk – and draw it away, removingany strings with it. Snap the other end off, drawing it similarlydown the other side. Cut the chard into 10cm lengths andcook in the boiling blanc until just tender – this will varyaccording to thickness but may take 4–5 minutes. Removefrom the blanc with a slotted spoon, refresh in iced water for10 seconds, then drain and set aside, covered, on kitchenpaper at room temperature.

Peel the salsify and place immediately in a bowl of water withthe lemon juice added. Cut each salsify piece in half. Transferto the boiling blanc, turn down the heat and cook gently untiljust tender. e time for this will also depend on the thicknessof the salsify. Drain, refresh in iced water for 30 seconds andset aside as for the chard.

Trim any leaves off the stems of the broccoli. Bring a large panof salted water to the boil, add the broccoli and cook until justtender. Remove and refresh in iced water for 1 minute, thenset aside as above. Top and tail the celery sticks and peel –ensuring you don't remove too much of the stem. Cut theminto 10cm lengths and cut each length in half down themiddle. Blanch for 30 seconds, refresh in iced water for 15 seconds and set aside with the other vegetables.

Place the potatoes in a pan, cover with water, season with saltand bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a baresimmer until just tender. Remove from the heat and set asideto cool in the cooking water. With a paring knife, li the skinsoff the potatoes, top and tail them, then return them to thewater and set aside at room temperature.

BEEr BAttEr

Whisk 100ml of the beer into the flour until smooth. Crumblein the yeast and whisk again until smooth. Gradually whisk inthe remaining beer. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt and setaside, covered, in a warm place for 30 minutes.

to SErvE

Season the skate with salt and cook in a steamer (or poach justbelow boiling point in a large pan of salted water) for 8 minutes.Remove from the steamer and use a palette knife to scrape offthe gelatinous membrane by gently scraping from the thick tothe thin side of the wing. Similarly, but scraping in the oppositedirection, remove any dark surface meat from each wing. Now,with a carving knife, remove the meat from both sides of thewing by cutting horizontally from the thin side to the thick.Transfer the skate to a tray and cover with cling film.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop the Swisschard in for 5 seconds, then remove and transfer to a bowl.Add 1 tablespoon of the red wine dressing and toss gently.Repeat this for the salsify and celery. Warm the potatoesthrough in their cooking water, drain and cut into slices 5mm thick. Transfer to a bowl and toss gently with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Plunge the broccoli into theboiling water for 5 seconds, drain and set aside.

Heat the oil to 200°C in a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep, heavy-based pan. Add all the clams to the beer batter, li out again witha fork and deep-fry in batches until golden and crisp. Season withsalt and set aside on kitchen paper.

Lay out 8 plates and divide three-quarters of the vegetablesbetween them. Teasing the skate into strands, arrange it over thevegetables. Finish with the remaining vegetables. Shake the bottleof clam mayonnaise to ensure it is fluid and squeeze little dots ofthis over the skate and around the salad. Dress the ruby chardleaves with the olive oil and lemon juice and place 10 or so leaveson each salad. Drizzle with a final bit of red wine dressing andgarnish with the clam beignets.

From the Cold Larder

A move on to the cold-larder section of the kitchen at e Square comes with more support from senior staff than anyother. e fact of the matter is, it is more difficult to producecold food full of character and flavour than hot. Heat breatheslife into food and helps salt and seasonings to dissolve anddisperse. Fridges are an indispensable piece of kitchen kit andclearly enable us to keep produce in immaculate condition.Fridge-cold food, however, is severely compromised in itsflavour. On the cold larder, which deals with dishes whoseprimary components have been previously cooked, or which aresimply served raw, it takes a skilled chef to assemble plates offood that sparkle and whose flavours sing loud and clear. A list of ingredients that actually benefit from being served coldwould be woefully short. e rule, therefore, is to allow anythingthat has been in the fridge to come to room temperature beforeserving. However, there is an armoury of touches that can helpbring cold food to life. A few grains of sea salt, a drop or two ofvinegar, a drizzle of oil, herbs, chopped shallots, small quantitiesof mayonnaise all play a part in this arena and are instrumentalin giving the lacklustre, muted flavours of cold food the kiss of life.

Cooking and finishing food that is to be served cold requiresparticular care and attention to seasoning. As much as a fewfinal grains of salt can help restore an ingredient, it will alwaysfall short of its full potential if it was not seasoned sufficientlyduring cooking.

From the Cold Larder

A move on to the cold-larder section of the kitchen at e Square comes with more support from senior staff than anyother. e fact of the matter is, it is more difficult to producecold food full of character and flavour than hot. Heat breatheslife into food and helps salt and seasonings to dissolve anddisperse. Fridges are an indispensable piece of kitchen kit andclearly enable us to keep produce in immaculate condition.Fridge-cold food, however, is severely compromised in itsflavour. On the cold larder, which deals with dishes whoseprimary components have been previously cooked, or which aresimply served raw, it takes a skilled chef to assemble plates offood that sparkle and whose flavours sing loud and clear. A list of ingredients that actually benefit from being served coldwould be woefully short. e rule, therefore, is to allow anythingthat has been in the fridge to come to room temperature beforeserving. However, there is an armoury of touches that can helpbring cold food to life. A few grains of sea salt, a drop or two ofvinegar, a drizzle of oil, herbs, chopped shallots, small quantitiesof mayonnaise all play a part in this arena and are instrumentalin giving the lacklustre, muted flavours of cold food the kiss of life.

Cooking and finishing food that is to be served cold requiresparticular care and attention to seasoning. As much as a fewfinal grains of salt can help restore an ingredient, it will alwaysfall short of its full potential if it was not seasoned sufficientlyduring cooking.

From thE ColD lArDEr 151150 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

TERRINE OF CHICKEN, FOIE GRAS AND GIROLLES WITH A LIVER CREAM AND GRILLED LEEKS

SERVES 12

ere is a spell of severalweeks – perhaps longer someyears – when Scottish girollesare young, small, plentiful andat their best. ey knock thesocks off the ones from theContinent. is terrine useslots of them, and the harmonyof flavour between thechicken, girolles and tarragonand the enrichment with foiegras make for a fantastic,albeit labour-intensive,terrine.

ovErvIEW

Two small chickens areboned and used to line aterrine. A generous quantityof girolles is sautéed in duckfat, seasoned with tarragonand, once cooled and spikedwith foie gras, used to fill thecavity. e excess chicken isfolded over and the terrinecooked gently. A slice of thisis served with a chicken livercream and chargrilled babyleeks.

FoCuS oN

ere are only three mainingredients here but theymust all be perfect. Use onlygood organic or free-rangechickens. Do notcompromise on the girolles –small, fresh, golden Scottishgirolles are the only option.Fresh, sweet-smelling foiegras is important. It will beonly gently cooked and anystaleness will be amplified.

Making this terrine is tricky.Boning the birds will be timeconsuming for beginners but,with perseverance, isachievable.

kEy ComPoNENtS

TerrineChicken liver creamChargrilled leeks

tImINg

e terrine must be cookedthe day before, to give it timeto set and mature. echicken liver cream can bedone well in advance, leavingonly the leeks as a last-minute job.


TERRINE OF CHICKEN, FOIE GRAS AND GIROLLES WITH A LIVER CREAM AND GRILLED LEEKS

SERVES 12

ere is a spell of severalweeks – perhaps longer someyears – when Scottish girollesare young, small, plentiful andat their best. ey knock thesocks off the ones from theContinent. is terrine useslots of them, and the harmonyof flavour between thechicken, girolles and tarragonand the enrichment with foiegras make for a fantastic,albeit labour-intensive,terrine.

ovErvIEW

Two small chickens areboned and used to line aterrine. A generous quantityof girolles is sautéed in duckfat, seasoned with tarragonand, once cooled and spikedwith foie gras, used to fill thecavity. e excess chicken isfolded over and the terrinecooked gently. A slice of thisis served with a chicken livercream and chargrilled babyleeks.

FoCuS oN

ere are only three mainingredients here but theymust all be perfect. Use onlygood organic or free-rangechickens. Do notcompromise on the girolles –small, fresh, golden Scottishgirolles are the only option.Fresh, sweet-smelling foiegras is important. It will beonly gently cooked and anystaleness will be amplified.

Making this terrine is tricky.Boning the birds will be timeconsuming for beginners but,with perseverance, isachievable.

kEy ComPoNENtS

TerrineChicken liver creamChargrilled leeks

tImINg

e terrine must be cookedthe day before, to give it timeto set and mature. echicken liver cream can bedone well in advance, leavingonly the leeks as a last-minute job.


INgrEDIENtS

tErrINE

2 x 900g organic or free-range chickens1kg small, fresh Scottish girolle mushrooms150g duck fat30 tarragon leaves1 lobe of top-grade fresh foie gras, weighing about 350g

ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm

100g chicken livers250ml grapeseed oil1 shallot, finely chopped30ml Madeira wine15ml port1 teaspoon sherry vinegar1 teaspoon Dijon mustard30g egg yolks

othEr INgrEDIENtS

60 baby leeks, pencil-thickness1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

mEthoD

tErrINE

Bone the chickens using the following method. Place achicken on a chopping board in front of you, breast-sidedown. Cut cleanly through the skin down the back of the birdfrom one end to the other. e knowledge of a chicken’sanatomy helps here but, simply put, liing up the skin on oneside and holding a boning knife in your other hand, you nowneed to cut away the meat from the bone in delicatemovements. is is the general procedure, but almostimmediately the ball and socket joint where the leg connects

to the main carcass will hinder you. ‘Dislocate’ this joint byapplying leverage at this point. Once the joint has separated,continue working with the knife between the ball and socketand around the carcass. Similarly, you will have to dislocatethe wing joint. Once you have successfully worked most ofyour way round the carcass, you will hit the breastplate – a 2–3cm flat bone running between the breasts, the ridge of whichyou feel when approaching a chicken from the normal way up.Cut the meat away from this, being careful not to cut throughthe skin as you near the end. At this stage, half the bird hasbeen removed from the main body of the carcass but the legand wing bones are still in. Turn the bird around and repeatthe process on the second side. Once you have reached theend of the breastplate on the second side, all that is le to do iscarefully cut the line of skin away from the cartilaginous ridgeof the plate. is is best done using scissors. It is not the end ofthe world if you puncture the skin. Now lay the chicken out infront of you with the breasts away from you and the skin sidedown. Cut down the centre of each thigh and drumstick and,by working methodically, remove the bones from each leg.Chop the wings off half way down the first bone and similarlyremove the stump of bone le by cutting away the meat. echicken is now boneless and, by careful manoeuvring, it canbe shaped into a neat, symmetrical square piece. To even outthe thickness of the meat, use horizontal sweeping, slicingmovements to cut off the thickest parts of the breast andthighs. Use this to fill any gaps.

Lay the boneless bird on a piece of baking parchment and repeatthe process for the second chicken. Set aside in the fridge.

Trim the base of the stalks off the girolles and cut in half anythat have caps more than 2.5cm in diameter. Wash byplunging them briefly into a sink full of cold water andagitating carefully. Li the mushrooms out with a sieve, spindry in a salad spinner and then spread out on a kitchen clothand leave to dry further for 1 hour.

e key to cooking the girolles is to do it hard and fast. A large, heavy-based pan is required, and you should cookthem in as many batches as necessary not to overcrowd thepan. Place the pan over a high heat and leave for 3–4 minutes.

Add the duck fat, let it smoke briefly and then throw in thegirolles, seasoning immediately with salt and pepper. ey willrelease a lot of moisture. Allow all this to boil away and, at thepoint where they start to fry again, tip them into a bowl.Repeat until all the mushrooms are cooked. Once they havecooled to room temperature, drain them and check theseasoning. e terrine will be served cold, so they must tastehighly seasoned when warm. Add the tarragon leaves to thegirolles and set aside at room temperature.

Split the foie gras into its 2 constituent lobes and cut intorough 1cm cubes. Season generously with salt and pepper andmix with the girolles. Set aside at room temperature.

Place a 22cm x 8cm x 8cm terrine on the work surface andremove the chickens from the fridge. By carefullymanhandling the birds in, line the terrine. It does not reallymatter how this happens but, in my experience, having onechicken at each end works best, with the middle of eachchicken running lengthways along the centre of the base of theterrine, the breasts all meeting at the middle point. ere willbe some overhang, which will be folded over at the end.Season the chicken generously and tip all the girolles and foiegras into the cavity, pressing down to ensure they are wellcompacted. Fold the excess chicken over neatly, trimming themeat off one side so that the covering layer is no thicker thanthat within the terrine. is can sometimes be a bit of apatchwork job. Now wrap the terrine tightly with a continuouscovering of cling film 5 layers thick. Repeat this lengthways tomake it completely airtight. Should you have a sous-videmachine, vacuum pack the terrine to maximum in a largesous-vide bag, but this is not critical. Submerge the terrine ina pan of water or a water bath set to 75°C and cook for 1¼hours, keeping the temperature constant with the use of asugar thermometer if necessary. Remove, plunge into icedwater for 15 minutes, and then transfer to the fridge and leaveovernight.

ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm

Season the chicken livers and sauté for 2 minutes in a hot panin a tablespoon of the grapeseed oil. Tip on to a plate and,

using the same pan but with a fresh tablespoon of oil, sweatthe shallot with a generous pinch of salt until translucent.Return the livers and their juices to the pan, add the Madeiraand port, and simmer until almost completely evaporated.Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the vinegar, mustardand egg yolks and blend to a smooth paste. Gradually add theremaining oil while the machine is running to create a rich,thick chicken liver mayonnaise. Pass through a fine sieve,adjust the seasoning if necessary and set aside in the fridge.

to SErvE

Trim the roots off the leeks, remove the outer layer, trim anydark green tops off and place in a large bowl of water for 15 minutes. Drain, dry on a kitchen cloth, then place in a large bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a chargrill pan or, failing that, a heavy-based frying pan,to maximum heat. Place the leeks on the grill until blackenedunderneath, then turn and colour the second side. Do this inbatches if necessary. Transfer to a plate and set aside at roomtemperature.

Unwrap the terrine and turn it out of its mould by gentlytapping it on a hard surface. With a sharp knife, trim off theend and taste it for seasoning. If necessary, add a pinch of seasalt to the slices you serve. Cut 12 slices, lay them out on achopping board, cover with cling film and leave to come toroom temperature for 5 minutes. Remove the cling film, brushthe terrine slices with hazelnut oil and transfer to large servingplates. Garnish with the grilled leeks and finish with dots ofchicken liver cream.


INgrEDIENtS

tErrINE

2 x 900g organic or free-range chickens1kg small, fresh Scottish girolle mushrooms150g duck fat30 tarragon leaves1 lobe of top-grade fresh foie gras, weighing about 350g

ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm

100g chicken livers250ml grapeseed oil1 shallot, finely chopped30ml Madeira wine15ml port1 teaspoon sherry vinegar1 teaspoon Dijon mustard30g egg yolks

othEr INgrEDIENtS

60 baby leeks, pencil-thickness1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

mEthoD

tErrINE

Bone the chickens using the following method. Place achicken on a chopping board in front of you, breast-sidedown. Cut cleanly through the skin down the back of the birdfrom one end to the other. e knowledge of a chicken’sanatomy helps here but, simply put, liing up the skin on oneside and holding a boning knife in your other hand, you nowneed to cut away the meat from the bone in delicatemovements. is is the general procedure, but almostimmediately the ball and socket joint where the leg connects

to the main carcass will hinder you. ‘Dislocate’ this joint byapplying leverage at this point. Once the joint has separated,continue working with the knife between the ball and socketand around the carcass. Similarly, you will have to dislocatethe wing joint. Once you have successfully worked most ofyour way round the carcass, you will hit the breastplate – a 2–3cm flat bone running between the breasts, the ridge of whichyou feel when approaching a chicken from the normal way up.Cut the meat away from this, being careful not to cut throughthe skin as you near the end. At this stage, half the bird hasbeen removed from the main body of the carcass but the legand wing bones are still in. Turn the bird around and repeatthe process on the second side. Once you have reached theend of the breastplate on the second side, all that is le to do iscarefully cut the line of skin away from the cartilaginous ridgeof the plate. is is best done using scissors. It is not the end ofthe world if you puncture the skin. Now lay the chicken out infront of you with the breasts away from you and the skin sidedown. Cut down the centre of each thigh and drumstick and,by working methodically, remove the bones from each leg.Chop the wings off half way down the first bone and similarlyremove the stump of bone le by cutting away the meat. echicken is now boneless and, by careful manoeuvring, it canbe shaped into a neat, symmetrical square piece. To even outthe thickness of the meat, use horizontal sweeping, slicingmovements to cut off the thickest parts of the breast andthighs. Use this to fill any gaps.

Lay the boneless bird on a piece of baking parchment and repeatthe process for the second chicken. Set aside in the fridge.

Trim the base of the stalks off the girolles and cut in half anythat have caps more than 2.5cm in diameter. Wash byplunging them briefly into a sink full of cold water andagitating carefully. Li the mushrooms out with a sieve, spindry in a salad spinner and then spread out on a kitchen clothand leave to dry further for 1 hour.

e key to cooking the girolles is to do it hard and fast. A large, heavy-based pan is required, and you should cookthem in as many batches as necessary not to overcrowd thepan. Place the pan over a high heat and leave for 3–4 minutes.

Add the duck fat, let it smoke briefly and then throw in thegirolles, seasoning immediately with salt and pepper. ey willrelease a lot of moisture. Allow all this to boil away and, at thepoint where they start to fry again, tip them into a bowl.Repeat until all the mushrooms are cooked. Once they havecooled to room temperature, drain them and check theseasoning. e terrine will be served cold, so they must tastehighly seasoned when warm. Add the tarragon leaves to thegirolles and set aside at room temperature.

Split the foie gras into its 2 constituent lobes and cut intorough 1cm cubes. Season generously with salt and pepper andmix with the girolles. Set aside at room temperature.

Place a 22cm x 8cm x 8cm terrine on the work surface andremove the chickens from the fridge. By carefullymanhandling the birds in, line the terrine. It does not reallymatter how this happens but, in my experience, having onechicken at each end works best, with the middle of eachchicken running lengthways along the centre of the base of theterrine, the breasts all meeting at the middle point. ere willbe some overhang, which will be folded over at the end.Season the chicken generously and tip all the girolles and foiegras into the cavity, pressing down to ensure they are wellcompacted. Fold the excess chicken over neatly, trimming themeat off one side so that the covering layer is no thicker thanthat within the terrine. is can sometimes be a bit of apatchwork job. Now wrap the terrine tightly with a continuouscovering of cling film 5 layers thick. Repeat this lengthways tomake it completely airtight. Should you have a sous-videmachine, vacuum pack the terrine to maximum in a largesous-vide bag, but this is not critical. Submerge the terrine ina pan of water or a water bath set to 75°C and cook for 1¼hours, keeping the temperature constant with the use of asugar thermometer if necessary. Remove, plunge into icedwater for 15 minutes, and then transfer to the fridge and leaveovernight.

ChICkEN lIvEr CrEAm

Season the chicken livers and sauté for 2 minutes in a hot panin a tablespoon of the grapeseed oil. Tip on to a plate and,

using the same pan but with a fresh tablespoon of oil, sweatthe shallot with a generous pinch of salt until translucent.Return the livers and their juices to the pan, add the Madeiraand port, and simmer until almost completely evaporated.Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the vinegar, mustardand egg yolks and blend to a smooth paste. Gradually add theremaining oil while the machine is running to create a rich,thick chicken liver mayonnaise. Pass through a fine sieve,adjust the seasoning if necessary and set aside in the fridge.

to SErvE

Trim the roots off the leeks, remove the outer layer, trim anydark green tops off and place in a large bowl of water for 15 minutes. Drain, dry on a kitchen cloth, then place in a large bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a chargrill pan or, failing that, a heavy-based frying pan,to maximum heat. Place the leeks on the grill until blackenedunderneath, then turn and colour the second side. Do this inbatches if necessary. Transfer to a plate and set aside at roomtemperature.

Unwrap the terrine and turn it out of its mould by gentlytapping it on a hard surface. With a sharp knife, trim off theend and taste it for seasoning. If necessary, add a pinch of seasalt to the slices you serve. Cut 12 slices, lay them out on achopping board, cover with cling film and leave to come toroom temperature for 5 minutes. Remove the cling film, brushthe terrine slices with hazelnut oil and transfer to large servingplates. Garnish with the grilled leeks and finish with dots ofchicken liver cream.

PAStA 225

RAVIOLI OF LOBSTER WITH MELON, LARDO DI COLONNATA AND A SHELLFISH BISQUE

SERVES 8

We make a lot of ravioli ate Square, simply becausethey deliver. Once thetechnique is mastered, theyare quick to make, fantasticvehicles for flavour, offer greatconsistency in service and,most importantly, aredelicious to eat. is dish hascomplex flavours – primarilythe sweetness of the shellfishand melon is paired with theearthiness of the lardo.

ovErvIEW

e ravioli itself is anassembly of lobster meat,scallop mousse and basil. It is served with an intensevinaigrette, based on ashellfish jus (a reduction of afragrant shellfish stock), thefinely diced lardo and the fatreleased when it wasrendered. It is garnished withslivers of melon and anaerated shellfish bisque.

FoCuS oN

I never tire of pasta work butthe enjoyment of it and theend result are utterlydependent on a well-madedough, with appropriatefirmness for the job in hand.Spend 10 minutes, ifnecessary, getting the doughas it should be. Too wet andyou will end up tearing yourhair out; too dry and you willdislocate your knucklestrying to get the pasta to sticktogether.

Fresh shellfish is critical here.

Lardo di colonnata is curedwith herbs and is superior to a standard slab of lardo(pork fat). It is Italian, fromthe neck of the animal, and isquite simply the best.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Pasta doughLobster mixShellfish bisqueVinaigrette

tImINg

All these components can bemade the day before but thepasta dough must be. emaking of the ravioli needs to be as close to the servingtime as practically possible.Minutes are not crucial here– a few hours beforehand is fine.

224 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

PAStA 225

RAVIOLI OF LOBSTER WITH MELON, LARDO DI COLONNATA AND A SHELLFISH BISQUE

SERVES 8

We make a lot of ravioli ate Square, simply becausethey deliver. Once thetechnique is mastered, theyare quick to make, fantasticvehicles for flavour, offer greatconsistency in service and,most importantly, aredelicious to eat. is dish hascomplex flavours – primarilythe sweetness of the shellfishand melon is paired with theearthiness of the lardo.

ovErvIEW

e ravioli itself is anassembly of lobster meat,scallop mousse and basil. It is served with an intensevinaigrette, based on ashellfish jus (a reduction of afragrant shellfish stock), thefinely diced lardo and the fatreleased when it wasrendered. It is garnished withslivers of melon and anaerated shellfish bisque.

FoCuS oN

I never tire of pasta work butthe enjoyment of it and theend result are utterlydependent on a well-madedough, with appropriatefirmness for the job in hand.Spend 10 minutes, ifnecessary, getting the doughas it should be. Too wet andyou will end up tearing yourhair out; too dry and you willdislocate your knucklestrying to get the pasta to sticktogether.

Fresh shellfish is critical here.

Lardo di colonnata is curedwith herbs and is superior to a standard slab of lardo(pork fat). It is Italian, fromthe neck of the animal, and isquite simply the best.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Pasta doughLobster mixShellfish bisqueVinaigrette

tImINg

All these components can bemade the day before but thepasta dough must be. emaking of the ravioli needs to be as close to the servingtime as practically possible.Minutes are not crucial here– a few hours beforehand is fine.


PAStA 227226 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

INgrEDIENtS

loBStEr rAvIolI

2 x 500g native lobsters (about 400g of cooked meat isrequired)

1 quantity of Scallop Mousse (see page 31)a squeeze of lemon juice8 basil leaves, finely sliced1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough (see page 27)

ShEllFISh BISquE

50ml grapeseed oilthe shells from the lobster, above100g unsalted butter2 shallots, finely sliced½ carrot, finely sliced½ celery stick, finely sliced½ leek, finely sliced½ teaspoon each of coriander seeds and fennel seeds2 star anise½ head of garlic1 tablespoon tomato purée200ml Madeira3 slices of lemon½ bunch of basil200ml semi-skimmed milk

vINAIgrEttE

150g lardo di colonnata, finely diceda squeeze of lemon100g Charentais or other ripe melon, finely diced

othEr INgrEDIENtS

1 Charentais or other ripe melon

mEthoD

loBStEr rAvIolI

Place the lobsters in the freezer for 1–2 hours to render themcomatose. Bring a very large pan of salted water bring to theboil. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water, turn the heatdown and bring back to a bare simmer, cooking the lobstersfor 10 minutes in total. Remove the lobsters and allow to coolto room temperature but don’t put them in the fridge.

While they are cooling, make the scallop mousse.

Remove the lobster meat from the shells as follows (keep theshells for the bisque): get a large chopping board and 3medium bowls lined up in front of you. Pull the lobster tailfrom the head by gently twisting and pulling. Put the tail inbowl 1. Pull the claws and knuckles away from the head, thensnap the claw away from the other 2 knuckles and place allthese pieces in bowl 2. Pull all the legs off the head section and place in bowl 3. Now prise the upper head shell and lowersection apart. Discard the lower section and place the uppershell in bowl 3. Keep clean, wiping away any watery juices asyou work.

Now take a lobster tail, turn it on its side and press carefullybut firmly down. e shell will crack, allowing you to prise theshell away and extract the tail meat in one plump piece. Putthe shell in bowl 3. Put the tail meat into a clean bowl. Usingthe back of a cleaver, a heavy knife or lobster scissors, crackthe claw and knuckle shells. Extract the meat, putting the meatand empty shells in the appropriate bowls. e clawsthemselves have a thin, plate-like shell within them. Gentlypush the crab-like claw meat away from this and pull this shellout. You should now have 2 bowls in use, one full of shells andthe other containing meat.

To make the lobster mix, cut the lobster tails in half, removingthe dark intestinal tract. Roughly chop this meat, along withthe knuckles, and season with the lemon juice. Add to thescallop mousse with the basil and mix gently to combine. Cut the claws horizontally in half and chill.

Make the ravioli following the method on page 29. You willneed to cut out 16 discs of pasta, 9cm in diameter, to make 8ravioli, filling them with 100g lobster mix each. Complete theravioli as described on page 29, blanching them for 2 minutes.

ShEllFISh BISquE

Heat a large, shallow, heavy-based casserole. Add the oil,followed by the lobster shells, and sauté for 2–3 minutes over a high heat. Add half the butter, followed by the vegetables,aromatics and garlic, and continue cooking for 5 minutes.Season with a generous pinch of salt, stir in the tomato puréeand then transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.Cook for 5 minutes, then place back on the hob. Add theMadeira and simmer until it has completely evaporated. Addenough water just to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon and basiland then cover and leave to rest for half an hour. Pass througha fine sieve, return to the heat and simmer until reduced to200ml. is should be an intensely flavoured shellfishreduction. Remove 50ml for use in the vinaigrette. Place theremaining shellfish bisque in a saucepan and set aside.

vINAIgrEttE

Place the diced lardo in a pan and sweat over a medium heatin order to render the fat. Continue until the lardo just beginsto colour, then remove from the heat and add the reserved50ml shellfish reduction and a drop or two of lemon juice. Do not add the melon until you are about to serve the ravioli.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

Pare the skin away from the melon, keeping the melon whole.Slice it lengthwise into large, wafer-thin sheets, if you have aham slicer. If not, cut the melon into pieces and then intolong, wafer-thin strips.

to SErvE

Remove the lobster claws from the fridge. Bring a large pan oflightly salted water to the boil for the pasta.

Bring the bisque to the boil. Add the remaining 50g butter andthe milk and heat to near-simmering point (about 80°C).Carefully aerate with a hand blender to check the consistency– it should form a creamy froth, which should hold for severalminutes. It will not aerate if it is too cold, and will collapse ifthe mix has boiled – in which case, adjust the heat and re-blend.

Warm the vinaigrette through and add the diced melon.Reheat the ravioli in the pan of boiling salted water for 4minutes. Meanwhile, lay out 8 preheated bowls and place aruffled sheet of melon in each. Remove the ravioli from thewater, drain them on a kitchen towel and place one in eachbowl on the melon. Place half a lobster claw on each, thenspoon over the vinaigrette, ensuring you get an even mix offat, juice and dice. Finish by briefly re-blending the bisque and spooning some around each ravioli.

PAStA 227226 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

INgrEDIENtS

loBStEr rAvIolI

2 x 500g native lobsters (about 400g of cooked meat isrequired)

1 quantity of Scallop Mousse (see page 31)a squeeze of lemon juice8 basil leaves, finely sliced1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough (see page 27)

ShEllFISh BISquE

50ml grapeseed oilthe shells from the lobster, above100g unsalted butter2 shallots, finely sliced½ carrot, finely sliced½ celery stick, finely sliced½ leek, finely sliced½ teaspoon each of coriander seeds and fennel seeds2 star anise½ head of garlic1 tablespoon tomato purée200ml Madeira3 slices of lemon½ bunch of basil200ml semi-skimmed milk

vINAIgrEttE

150g lardo di colonnata, finely diceda squeeze of lemon100g Charentais or other ripe melon, finely diced

othEr INgrEDIENtS

1 Charentais or other ripe melon

mEthoD

loBStEr rAvIolI

Place the lobsters in the freezer for 1–2 hours to render themcomatose. Bring a very large pan of salted water bring to theboil. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water, turn the heatdown and bring back to a bare simmer, cooking the lobstersfor 10 minutes in total. Remove the lobsters and allow to coolto room temperature but don’t put them in the fridge.

While they are cooling, make the scallop mousse.

Remove the lobster meat from the shells as follows (keep theshells for the bisque): get a large chopping board and 3medium bowls lined up in front of you. Pull the lobster tailfrom the head by gently twisting and pulling. Put the tail inbowl 1. Pull the claws and knuckles away from the head, thensnap the claw away from the other 2 knuckles and place allthese pieces in bowl 2. Pull all the legs off the head section and place in bowl 3. Now prise the upper head shell and lowersection apart. Discard the lower section and place the uppershell in bowl 3. Keep clean, wiping away any watery juices asyou work.

Now take a lobster tail, turn it on its side and press carefullybut firmly down. e shell will crack, allowing you to prise theshell away and extract the tail meat in one plump piece. Putthe shell in bowl 3. Put the tail meat into a clean bowl. Usingthe back of a cleaver, a heavy knife or lobster scissors, crackthe claw and knuckle shells. Extract the meat, putting the meatand empty shells in the appropriate bowls. e clawsthemselves have a thin, plate-like shell within them. Gentlypush the crab-like claw meat away from this and pull this shellout. You should now have 2 bowls in use, one full of shells andthe other containing meat.

To make the lobster mix, cut the lobster tails in half, removingthe dark intestinal tract. Roughly chop this meat, along withthe knuckles, and season with the lemon juice. Add to thescallop mousse with the basil and mix gently to combine. Cut the claws horizontally in half and chill.

Make the ravioli following the method on page 29. You willneed to cut out 16 discs of pasta, 9cm in diameter, to make 8ravioli, filling them with 100g lobster mix each. Complete theravioli as described on page 29, blanching them for 2 minutes.

ShEllFISh BISquE

Heat a large, shallow, heavy-based casserole. Add the oil,followed by the lobster shells, and sauté for 2–3 minutes over a high heat. Add half the butter, followed by the vegetables,aromatics and garlic, and continue cooking for 5 minutes.Season with a generous pinch of salt, stir in the tomato puréeand then transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.Cook for 5 minutes, then place back on the hob. Add theMadeira and simmer until it has completely evaporated. Addenough water just to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon and basiland then cover and leave to rest for half an hour. Pass througha fine sieve, return to the heat and simmer until reduced to200ml. is should be an intensely flavoured shellfishreduction. Remove 50ml for use in the vinaigrette. Place theremaining shellfish bisque in a saucepan and set aside.

vINAIgrEttE

Place the diced lardo in a pan and sweat over a medium heatin order to render the fat. Continue until the lardo just beginsto colour, then remove from the heat and add the reserved50ml shellfish reduction and a drop or two of lemon juice. Do not add the melon until you are about to serve the ravioli.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

Pare the skin away from the melon, keeping the melon whole.Slice it lengthwise into large, wafer-thin sheets, if you have aham slicer. If not, cut the melon into pieces and then intolong, wafer-thin strips.

to SErvE

Remove the lobster claws from the fridge. Bring a large pan oflightly salted water to the boil for the pasta.

Bring the bisque to the boil. Add the remaining 50g butter andthe milk and heat to near-simmering point (about 80°C).Carefully aerate with a hand blender to check the consistency– it should form a creamy froth, which should hold for severalminutes. It will not aerate if it is too cold, and will collapse ifthe mix has boiled – in which case, adjust the heat and re-blend.

Warm the vinaigrette through and add the diced melon.Reheat the ravioli in the pan of boiling salted water for 4minutes. Meanwhile, lay out 8 preheated bowls and place aruffled sheet of melon in each. Remove the ravioli from thewater, drain them on a kitchen towel and place one in eachbowl on the melon. Place half a lobster claw on each, thenspoon over the vinaigrette, ensuring you get an even mix offat, juice and dice. Finish by briefly re-blending the bisque and spooning some around each ravioli.

Meat Meat is such an all-encompassing word that it is hard to knowwhere to start when discussing it. Not only is there variety interms of the animal but the repertoire of cooking techniques at our disposal these days is almost endless. We do have somephenomenal meat available in the UK but the truth is, the post-Second World War emphasis on yield has taken its toll. e selection and cross breeding of animals that generatedquantity rather than quality brought an end to rationing andnourished the nation. A similar selection process was targeted atpork to try to produce leaner meat. e net result of all this leour beef, pork and, to a certain extent, lamb production in tattersas far as quality is concerned. is was mirrored in the poultryfarming sector, where intensive battery production becamestandard. In recent years, public demand for quality, provenanceand improved animal husbandry has brought some change andonce again farmers are reaping the benefits of producing qualitymeats across the board. is is by no means the norm, though, socareful sourcing is of paramount importance.

My general philosophy on cooking meat is fairly simple. e Square seems to be one of the last outposts of butter-bastedroasting, a practice we have stuck to aer looking very carefullyat the modern approach of low-temperature and water-bathcookery – the art of cooking vacuum-packed meat at a very lowtemperature. ere is enough material here alone for a book butsuffice it to say that, with an intelligent approach, one can couplethe advantages of both, and we now generally roast meat atlower temperatures. An extended roasting period yields meatwith a depth of flavour and textural character that simply cannotbe achieved in a water bath. ere are some potential advantagesto the water-bath process but they do not manifest themselves inthe mouth!

Most recently we have started roasting all our meat on the bone – be it best end of lamb, loin of pork or rib of beef. In anacknowledgement of practicality, the recipes in this book aremore user friendly but the rump of veal and rib of beef recipescan still give rise to handsome pieces of meat. e more youfocus on the meat, the less you have to worry about a sauce.So, well-rested, succulent slices of meat, coupled with a purée of some sort, require little more than their roasting juices. Sauces have been included in all the recipes for completion and,of course, a wonderful sauce does bring something to the platebut do not let the sometimes lengthy nature of their productionput you off a recipe.

It is worth focusing on the subject of resting meat. In particularwhere roasting is the technique, it is absolutely critical that meat is le to rest in order to allow the heat-aggravated proteinsand fibres to relax. A rule of thumb is to let it rest at roomtemperature for up to half its cooking time. No juices should run when meat is carved and in this state a beautifully roastedpiece of meat will deliver maximum succulence and tenderness.

One final point on seasoning: large pieces of meat should beseasoned generously. Furthermore, once carved, the newlyexposed surface will be lied and the flavours maximised with a fresh sprinkling of sea salt.

Meat Meat is such an all-encompassing word that it is hard to knowwhere to start when discussing it. Not only is there variety interms of the animal but the repertoire of cooking techniques at our disposal these days is almost endless. We do have somephenomenal meat available in the UK but the truth is, the post-Second World War emphasis on yield has taken its toll. e selection and cross breeding of animals that generatedquantity rather than quality brought an end to rationing andnourished the nation. A similar selection process was targeted atpork to try to produce leaner meat. e net result of all this leour beef, pork and, to a certain extent, lamb production in tattersas far as quality is concerned. is was mirrored in the poultryfarming sector, where intensive battery production becamestandard. In recent years, public demand for quality, provenanceand improved animal husbandry has brought some change andonce again farmers are reaping the benefits of producing qualitymeats across the board. is is by no means the norm, though, socareful sourcing is of paramount importance.

My general philosophy on cooking meat is fairly simple. e Square seems to be one of the last outposts of butter-bastedroasting, a practice we have stuck to aer looking very carefullyat the modern approach of low-temperature and water-bathcookery – the art of cooking vacuum-packed meat at a very lowtemperature. ere is enough material here alone for a book butsuffice it to say that, with an intelligent approach, one can couplethe advantages of both, and we now generally roast meat atlower temperatures. An extended roasting period yields meatwith a depth of flavour and textural character that simply cannotbe achieved in a water bath. ere are some potential advantagesto the water-bath process but they do not manifest themselves inthe mouth!

Most recently we have started roasting all our meat on the bone – be it best end of lamb, loin of pork or rib of beef. In anacknowledgement of practicality, the recipes in this book aremore user friendly but the rump of veal and rib of beef recipescan still give rise to handsome pieces of meat. e more youfocus on the meat, the less you have to worry about a sauce.So, well-rested, succulent slices of meat, coupled with a purée of some sort, require little more than their roasting juices. Sauces have been included in all the recipes for completion and,of course, a wonderful sauce does bring something to the platebut do not let the sometimes lengthy nature of their productionput you off a recipe.

It is worth focusing on the subject of resting meat. In particularwhere roasting is the technique, it is absolutely critical that meat is le to rest in order to allow the heat-aggravated proteinsand fibres to relax. A rule of thumb is to let it rest at roomtemperature for up to half its cooking time. No juices should run when meat is carved and in this state a beautifully roastedpiece of meat will deliver maximum succulence and tenderness.

One final point on seasoning: large pieces of meat should beseasoned generously. Furthermore, once carved, the newlyexposed surface will be lied and the flavours maximised with a fresh sprinkling of sea salt.

mEAt 435

FILLET OF AGED AYRSHIRE BEEF WITH ACROUSTILLANT OF OXTAIL, BONE MARROW,CEPS AND SNAILS

SERVES 8

As much as there are moreinteresting cuts of beef to workwith, there is nothing quitelike a fillet steak and here,coated in a rich, red-wine-based oxtail sauce andgarnished with snails, bonemarrow and ceps, it forms thecentrepiece of a dish thatpacks as big a punch as onecould hope for.

ovErvIEW

e fillet steak is simply fried,then served with a rich redwine sauce based on thestock from braised oxtail. e oxtail meat itself isspiked with mushrooms andonion and formed into acrisp, potato-wrapped springroll. e two are served withpoached bone marrow,spinach and a sauté of cepsand snails with parsley andgarlic. e dish is garnishedwith pieces of scorchedonion.

FoCuS oN

Although fillet is a supremelytender cut, it can be lackingin flavour. It is thereforeimportant to buy beef thathas been aged, preferably dryaged, for at least 28 days. is yields a fuller, rounderand altogether more matureflavour.

e oxtail sauce is not cheapbut is every bit as importantas the beef itself and providesa decadent, enrichinglubricant for the dish. Ensureyou caramelise the oxtail fully.

Fresh snails are far superior tothe canned variety and yourinvestment in time and moneywill be rewarded (see page 516).Should you use canned, ensurethey are well rinsed and try tobuy small ones.

Fresh ceps are one of nature’sgreat gis to the kitchen. Ifyou cannot find them, simplyuse another variety.

To make the potato spaghettifor the croustillants, you need a Japanese-style ‘turning’mandoline. If you don’t haveone, replace the spaghetti witha thin layer of kataifi pastry or simply double-roll thecroustillants in feuilles de brick.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Oxtail sauceOxtail croustillantsSnails

tImINg

e bone marrow requires 24 hours’ soaking to removeany blood. e oxtail sauce,croustillant mix, snails andbone marrow can all beprepared a day in advance.e scorched onion can becooked 2–3 hours in advancebut sautéing the ceps,cooking the spinach and thefillet of beef and deep-fryingthe croustillants all need tobe done at the last minute.


mEAt 435

FILLET OF AGED AYRSHIRE BEEF WITH ACROUSTILLANT OF OXTAIL, BONE MARROW,CEPS AND SNAILS

SERVES 8

As much as there are moreinteresting cuts of beef to workwith, there is nothing quitelike a fillet steak and here,coated in a rich, red-wine-based oxtail sauce andgarnished with snails, bonemarrow and ceps, it forms thecentrepiece of a dish thatpacks as big a punch as onecould hope for.

ovErvIEW

e fillet steak is simply fried,then served with a rich redwine sauce based on thestock from braised oxtail. e oxtail meat itself isspiked with mushrooms andonion and formed into acrisp, potato-wrapped springroll. e two are served withpoached bone marrow,spinach and a sauté of cepsand snails with parsley andgarlic. e dish is garnishedwith pieces of scorchedonion.

FoCuS oN

Although fillet is a supremelytender cut, it can be lackingin flavour. It is thereforeimportant to buy beef thathas been aged, preferably dryaged, for at least 28 days. is yields a fuller, rounderand altogether more matureflavour.

e oxtail sauce is not cheapbut is every bit as importantas the beef itself and providesa decadent, enrichinglubricant for the dish. Ensureyou caramelise the oxtail fully.

Fresh snails are far superior tothe canned variety and yourinvestment in time and moneywill be rewarded (see page 516).Should you use canned, ensurethey are well rinsed and try tobuy small ones.

Fresh ceps are one of nature’sgreat gis to the kitchen. Ifyou cannot find them, simplyuse another variety.

To make the potato spaghettifor the croustillants, you need a Japanese-style ‘turning’mandoline. If you don’t haveone, replace the spaghetti witha thin layer of kataifi pastry or simply double-roll thecroustillants in feuilles de brick.

kEy ComPoNENtS

Oxtail sauceOxtail croustillantsSnails

tImINg

e bone marrow requires 24 hours’ soaking to removeany blood. e oxtail sauce,croustillant mix, snails andbone marrow can all beprepared a day in advance.e scorched onion can becooked 2–3 hours in advancebut sautéing the ceps,cooking the spinach and thefillet of beef and deep-fryingthe croustillants all need tobe done at the last minute.


mEAt 437436 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

INgrEDIENtS

oxtAIl SAuCE

1 oxtail, cut into sections100ml grapeseed oil75g unsalted butter1 Spanish onion, quartered1 carrot, quartered1 small leek, cut into 41 celery stick, cut into 510 button mushrooms, quartered1 bouquet garni, made by wrapping a 6cm length of celery, a bay

leaf and a sprig of thyme in a leek leaf and securing with string2 teaspoons black peppercorns750ml full-bodied red wine500ml Veal Stock (see page 24)

oxtAIl CrouStIllANtS

1 white onion, finely diced2 large ceps or field mushrooms, peeled and finely diced8 sheets of feuilles de brick50g unsalted butter, melted6 large Agria potatoes, or other good chipping potatoes

SNAIlS

50 fresh snails or a 500g can of snails (if using canned snails,you won’t need the ingredients listed below)

25g unsalted butter1 celery stick, cut in half½ small leek, cut in half1 small carrot, cut in half15 button mushrooms, cut in half1 bay leafa sprig of thyme1 head of garlic, cut in half

othEr INgrEDIENtS

8 x 4cm lengths of marrowbone2 large white onions1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil145g unsalted butter1.2kg beef fillet (or 8 x 160g portions)100ml grapeseed oil16 medium-sized fresh ceps, peeled, quartered, washed and diced1 garlic clove, crushed1 dessertspoon flat-leaf parsley, cut into fine shreds300g young spinach1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying

mEthoD

oxtAIl SAuCE

Place a large, heavy-based casserole over a high heat and leavefor 2 minutes. Season the oxtail sections generously with saltand pepper. Add the oil to the pan and then add the oxtailpieces, cut-side down. Leave for 2 minutes or until they aredark brown, then turn them over, add the butter and colourthe second side. Now turn them on to their sides andmethodically colour all the edges. Remove the oxtail from thepan and add all the vegetables. Cook for 5 minutes, stirringoccasionally, until they have coloured evenly. Add the bouquetgarni and peppercorns and place the oxtail back in the pan.Add the red wine and simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters. Add the veal stock and 2 litres of water. Bring to theboil, skim off any scum and then cook at a base simmer for 15 minutes. Skim off any more scum, cover with a lid andplace in an oven preheated to 130°C/Gas Mark ¾. Cook for 3 hours, then check whether it is done by taking out a piece ofoxtail to see if the meat pulls easily away from the bone; if itdoesn’t, return to the oven and check every 15 minutes untilthis is the case. Set aside to cool.

Pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over alarge bowl, take out the pieces of oxtail and set aside. Discard

the remaining solids. Pass the cooking liquor through a finesieve into a saucepan, skim off all the fat from the surface andreserve for the croustillants. Boil the stock until it has reducedto 500ml; it should now be a rich, dark-red, meaty sauce.Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Li the meat off the oxtail bones and pick through it to ensureno small bones have found their way into it. Season with alittle salt and pepper and set aside for the croustillants.


Place a saucepan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute.Add 50g of the fat from cooking the oxtail, followed by theonion and a pinch of salt. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until theonion is translucent and so. Add the mushrooms and cook,stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes. Tip the mixture into abowl and add 250g of the oxtail meat and 75ml of the oxtailsauce. Stir gently to combine but do not over mix or the meatwill break up too much. If you are doing this a day in advance,cover and store in the fridge.

A couple of hours before cooking, lay out a sheet of feuilles debrick and trim the sides so it is 16cm wide. Trim the curvedtop and bottom off and brush with melted butter. Place 50g ofthe oxtail mix in a line 10cm wide at the end nearest you andthen roll it, compressing as you go, into a ‘spring roll’, turningthe excess feuilles de brick in towards the centre halfwaythrough. Repeat with the remaining 7 sheets of feuilles debrick. Set aside in the fridge.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Peel the potatoesand, using a Japanese ‘turning’ mandoline, turn them intolong, continuous strands of potato spaghetti. Plunge them intothe boiling water for 15 seconds, then drain through acolander and refresh under cold running water. Carefullyplace these long bundles of potato on absorbent cloths andleave to dry for 1 hour.

Carefully feel your way through the potato, liing it intomanageable quantities, and one by one wrap the oxtail ‘springrolls’ in a continuous, single layer of potato – starting at one

end and finishing at the other. Cut as required and tuck thefinal strands back under the preceding ones to prevent itunravelling during frying. Set aside, covered, in the fridge.

SNAIlS

If you are using fresh snails, bring a large pan of salted waterto the boil and plunge the snails into it for 30 seconds. Drainthrough a colander and refresh under cold running water. Usinga toothpick or a small fork, extract the snails from their shells,trim off the intestinal tract and set aside, discarding the shells.

Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, followed by the vegetables and apinch of salt. Sauté for 4–5 minutes, until lightly coloured,then add the bay leaf, thyme and garlic and cook for a minutelonger. Add the snails and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil,season with salt, then cover and place in an oven preheated to120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 2½–3 hours, until the snails aretender. Let them cool in their liquor. Pass the contents of thepan through a colander, collecting the stock in a bowlunderneath. Pick out the snails, transfer to a small bowl, coverwith some of the cooking liquor and discard the remainingsolids and stock. Chill the snails.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

Soak the marrowbones in cold salted water for 12 hours. If thewater becomes bloody, discard it and cover the bones withfresh water. Aer 12 hours, carefully extract the marrow bypushing it out with a finger and then soak it in cold saltedwater for a further 12 hours. Drain, cover and chill.

to SErvE

About an hour before serving, peel the 2 white onions. Withthe root end on the work surface, carefully cut vertically downthrough each onion so it is virtually cut in half – i.e. do notcut right the way through. Turn the onion through 90 degreesand similarly cut down again so it is now virtually cut into 4.In a similar way cut the onion 4 more times to give rise to 12 equally spaced cuts. Repeat with the second onion. Place

mEAt 437436 thE SquArE thE CookBook SAvoury

INgrEDIENtS

oxtAIl SAuCE

1 oxtail, cut into sections100ml grapeseed oil75g unsalted butter1 Spanish onion, quartered1 carrot, quartered1 small leek, cut into 41 celery stick, cut into 510 button mushrooms, quartered1 bouquet garni, made by wrapping a 6cm length of celery, a bay

leaf and a sprig of thyme in a leek leaf and securing with string2 teaspoons black peppercorns750ml full-bodied red wine500ml Veal Stock (see page 24)


1 white onion, finely diced2 large ceps or field mushrooms, peeled and finely diced8 sheets of feuilles de brick50g unsalted butter, melted6 large Agria potatoes, or other good chipping potatoes

SNAIlS

50 fresh snails or a 500g can of snails (if using canned snails,you won’t need the ingredients listed below)

25g unsalted butter1 celery stick, cut in half½ small leek, cut in half1 small carrot, cut in half15 button mushrooms, cut in half1 bay leafa sprig of thyme1 head of garlic, cut in half

othEr INgrEDIENtS

8 x 4cm lengths of marrowbone2 large white onions1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil145g unsalted butter1.2kg beef fillet (or 8 x 160g portions)100ml grapeseed oil16 medium-sized fresh ceps, peeled, quartered, washed and diced1 garlic clove, crushed1 dessertspoon flat-leaf parsley, cut into fine shreds300g young spinach1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying

mEthoD

oxtAIl SAuCE

Place a large, heavy-based casserole over a high heat and leavefor 2 minutes. Season the oxtail sections generously with saltand pepper. Add the oil to the pan and then add the oxtailpieces, cut-side down. Leave for 2 minutes or until they aredark brown, then turn them over, add the butter and colourthe second side. Now turn them on to their sides andmethodically colour all the edges. Remove the oxtail from thepan and add all the vegetables. Cook for 5 minutes, stirringoccasionally, until they have coloured evenly. Add the bouquetgarni and peppercorns and place the oxtail back in the pan.Add the red wine and simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters. Add the veal stock and 2 litres of water. Bring to theboil, skim off any scum and then cook at a base simmer for 15 minutes. Skim off any more scum, cover with a lid andplace in an oven preheated to 130°C/Gas Mark ¾. Cook for 3 hours, then check whether it is done by taking out a piece ofoxtail to see if the meat pulls easily away from the bone; if itdoesn’t, return to the oven and check every 15 minutes untilthis is the case. Set aside to cool.

Pour the contents of the casserole into a colander set over alarge bowl, take out the pieces of oxtail and set aside. Discard

the remaining solids. Pass the cooking liquor through a finesieve into a saucepan, skim off all the fat from the surface andreserve for the croustillants. Boil the stock until it has reducedto 500ml; it should now be a rich, dark-red, meaty sauce.Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Li the meat off the oxtail bones and pick through it to ensureno small bones have found their way into it. Season with alittle salt and pepper and set aside for the croustillants.


Place a saucepan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute.Add 50g of the fat from cooking the oxtail, followed by theonion and a pinch of salt. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until theonion is translucent and so. Add the mushrooms and cook,stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes. Tip the mixture into abowl and add 250g of the oxtail meat and 75ml of the oxtailsauce. Stir gently to combine but do not over mix or the meatwill break up too much. If you are doing this a day in advance,cover and store in the fridge.

A couple of hours before cooking, lay out a sheet of feuilles debrick and trim the sides so it is 16cm wide. Trim the curvedtop and bottom off and brush with melted butter. Place 50g ofthe oxtail mix in a line 10cm wide at the end nearest you andthen roll it, compressing as you go, into a ‘spring roll’, turningthe excess feuilles de brick in towards the centre halfwaythrough. Repeat with the remaining 7 sheets of feuilles debrick. Set aside in the fridge.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Peel the potatoesand, using a Japanese ‘turning’ mandoline, turn them intolong, continuous strands of potato spaghetti. Plunge them intothe boiling water for 15 seconds, then drain through acolander and refresh under cold running water. Carefullyplace these long bundles of potato on absorbent cloths andleave to dry for 1 hour.

Carefully feel your way through the potato, liing it intomanageable quantities, and one by one wrap the oxtail ‘springrolls’ in a continuous, single layer of potato – starting at one

end and finishing at the other. Cut as required and tuck thefinal strands back under the preceding ones to prevent itunravelling during frying. Set aside, covered, in the fridge.

SNAIlS

If you are using fresh snails, bring a large pan of salted waterto the boil and plunge the snails into it for 30 seconds. Drainthrough a colander and refresh under cold running water. Usinga toothpick or a small fork, extract the snails from their shells,trim off the intestinal tract and set aside, discarding the shells.

Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, followed by the vegetables and apinch of salt. Sauté for 4–5 minutes, until lightly coloured,then add the bay leaf, thyme and garlic and cook for a minutelonger. Add the snails and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil,season with salt, then cover and place in an oven preheated to120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 2½–3 hours, until the snails aretender. Let them cool in their liquor. Pass the contents of thepan through a colander, collecting the stock in a bowlunderneath. Pick out the snails, transfer to a small bowl, coverwith some of the cooking liquor and discard the remainingsolids and stock. Chill the snails.

othEr INgrEDIENtS

Soak the marrowbones in cold salted water for 12 hours. If thewater becomes bloody, discard it and cover the bones withfresh water. Aer 12 hours, carefully extract the marrow bypushing it out with a finger and then soak it in cold saltedwater for a further 12 hours. Drain, cover and chill.

to SErvE

About an hour before serving, peel the 2 white onions. Withthe root end on the work surface, carefully cut vertically downthrough each onion so it is virtually cut in half – i.e. do notcut right the way through. Turn the onion through 90 degreesand similarly cut down again so it is now virtually cut into 4.In a similar way cut the onion 4 more times to give rise to 12 equally spaced cuts. Repeat with the second onion. Place


butter in a non-stick pan until lightly coloured, then drain onkitchen paper and keep warm. Bring the consommé to the boil.

Carve the breast off the pigeons, li off the skin and slice eachbreast into 3 pieces. Drain the gnocchi. Lay out 8 preheatedlarge bowls. Line each bowl with 2 pieces of spring greens.Place 3 gnocchi and 3 pieces of asparagus in each bowl, sit 6pieces (2 breasts) of pigeon on top and garnish with 3 morepieces of asparagus and 2 more gnocchi. Pour over the hotconsommé and drizzle a dessertspoon of hazelnut oil overeach portion.

T H E S Q U A R E The Cookbook: Savouryby Philip Howard

Hardback, £40

http://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-square-savoury-9781906650599

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