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3/20/2017
1
Experiences Re-planting
Blueberries in NC
Bill Cline, Entomology and Plant Pathology
North Carolina State University
“ The Southern Highbush
[Blueberry] is a plant looking for a
place to die”
Gerard Krewer, Dixie Blueberry News, March 2003
Woody Perennial Crops Disease problems and
plant losses are additive – no “starting over” with each new growing season
Biocidal treatments or rotation cannot be used on an annual basis
Pathogens and insects are often plant-borne, chronic
Errors (site selection, lack of drainage) hard to correct
‘Legacy’ Blueberry
Vegetatively
Propagated
Diseases may be
transmitted via cuttings
from infected plants
Clonal -- no multi-line
resistance
Some diseases are
unique to plant
propagation systems
Softwood blueberry propagation
Site selection/preparation
What are the horticultural requirements of the crop (Soil type, pH, fertility, organic amendments)?
Drainage is very difficult to correct AFTER the plants are in the ground
WHAT MAKES A GOOD BLUEBERRY SITE? –
Ashe County, WNC Bladen County, SENC
3/20/2017
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Good drainage, soil aeration, low
pH, organic matter and water
pH Highbush blueberry -- 4.0 to 5.0
Rabbiteye blueberry – 4.5 to 5.3
Drainage Surface drainage (bedding, ditching)
Internal drainage (soil amendments if needed)
Irrigation Overhead (allows frost protection)
Drip or micro-sprinkler (conserves water)
Reasons to re-plant a site
Replacing older cultivars
Plant stand getting thin (<75%)
Correct drainage problems
Organic matter depleted (re-mulching)
Chronic disease losses (canker, viruses)
Herbicide injury, weed pressure
Northern highbush ‘Croatan’
phased out in NC in the last 10 yrs
1950s, selected for
canker resistance
Productive and
vigorous
Berry medium, soft
Phased out with
introduction of
packing lines
Diseases –
Fungi – Stem canker, stem blight,
Ganoderma
Viruses – Blueberry red ringspot
Phytoplasma – Blueberry stunt
Blueberry Stunt Phytoplasma Stem Canker (Botryosphaeria corticis)
1940s-1970s - in NC ,
canker devastated
‘Weymouth’, ‘Wolcott’
Newer cultivars selected
for resistance
Benlate (1970s)
Better cultural practices
More cvs (multi-line?)
Softwood and tissue
culture propagation
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Blueberry Red Ringspot Virus
Ganoderma rot (fungus)Stalked, one-sided polypore mushrooms –
“Conks” are woody, spores are released
from tiny pores rather than gills
Associated with dead/dying
bushes, mostly O’NealWhy not rotate to a new field?
Land ownership
Other sites not suitable
Convenient location
Good PYO site
Customers/historical
Restrictions on clearing “new ground”
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Reasons to re-plant or partially
re-plant a young field
Did it wrong the first time (no irrigation,
high pH, inadequate drainage)
Blueberry stem blight in yrs 2 & 3
Add pollinator row
Hot spots of injury to roots by insects
Herbicide injury from adjacent property
Stem Blight (Botryosphaeria spp.)
Wounding required for infection, epidemics can be traced back to specific injury events
Fall freeze injury predisposes plants in overly fertile soils (site selection)
Fungicides not effective
Young bushes at greatest risk (juvenility)
Pruning Young Bushes (0-3 yrs)
Removal of flower
buds to prevent
overcropping
Winter pruning to
shape the bush
Removal of succulent
fall shoots to avoid
stem blight infection
Cold-injured shoots are susceptible to
infection by stem blight fungi
In winter, hand-remove cold-injured shoots in 2- & 3-yr-old fields
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Insects attacking crowns/roots
Grubs
White-fringed beetle
Prionus (longhorned beetle)
Stem borers
WFB -- dieback of young ‘Legacy’ bushes on
plastic in a roughly circular half acre area
Affected plants were found to have almost no hair roots
remaining due to insect feeding damage
Excavation revealed larvae and new adults of
White-Fringed Beetle
Check crowns for larvae in older
bushes
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Prionus larvae June 3Forestry herbicide drift, Summer
following application
“Replant Disorder” – multiple
contributors to the problem
Inadequate site renovation (aeration,
organic matter, fertility)
Ring nematode and others (GA), possibly
Awl nematode in NC
Phytophthora root rot
Soil-borne plant pathogenic fungi
Weeds Sites with overhead irrigation may not be adequately renovated
on the irrigation row. Growers are reluctant to move (cap or
replace) buried irrigation lines, try to work around them.
Replant Diseases and Disorders
Phytophthora root rot
Nematodes
Soil-borne fungi
Lack of aeration
Depleted organic matter
Cultural practices
Controlling Blueberry Root Rot
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Root rot symptoms
Loss of vigor
Wilting, stunting
Yellow leaves
Poorly anchored
Early reddening
Defoliation
Tip dieback
Death
Phytophthora spp.
Blueberry root infection by the
pathogen Phytophthora cinnamomiYellowing and leaf drop due to root rot
Contributing factors for root rot
Usually in poorly drained areas with saturated soils (swimming spore!)
Inadequately bedded (flat) rows
Heavy soils (poor internal drainage)
Susceptible cultivars (Southmoon, Southern Bell, Other SHB?)
Poor sanitation, especially infected transplants (usually potted plants)
Pond water contamination?
Control methods
Drainage is the only lasting solution
Site selection -- some soils were not
meant to grow blueberries!
Resistance is not really available
Use sanitation in the nursery to avoid
introducing disease into new fields
Chemical control – not recommended in
North Carolina
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Drainage considerations
Provisions for field drainage must be
made prior to planting
Bedding up of rows should be done prior
to planting
If soil is too heavy (poor internal drainage)
the soil must be amended prior to planting
V-plow used to sweep middles
Sweep (front view) Tapered disk
Total width of disk
based on your row
spacing
Series of blades from
large to small on the
same spindle
Mounted on 3 pt hitch
Rows bedded with a tapered diskPhytophthora root rot can be severe on Fraser fir
planted on poorly drained sites/heavy soils
“As growers have tried
to expand plantings to
lower elevations and
heavier textured soils,
losses from this disease
can reach 30% to 75%
in unfavorable sites.
Because infested sites
can no longer be used to
produce noble and
Fraser fir, this disease
severely limits the ability
of growers to increase
the production of these
species” (Chastagner &
Benson, PHP, 2000)
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9
Root Rot in Bark Bed Systems in Georgia
Phytophthora, Pythium and Rhizoctonia reported
as causal agents
Disease problems have been reported even
when new bark is used (plant borne pathogens?
Infested irrigation water?)
Phosphite-treated bush (left) vs untreated, in bark beds at Griffin, GA. Control
has been demonstrated for both Phytophthora and Pythium. Photo courtesy Dr.
Phil Brannen.
Ring Nematode has been associated with replant disorder
in Georgia. Surveys in GA and NC did not show a similar
trend in NC, but other species were present --
Female, length < 1.0 mm
Image courtesy Phil Brannen, UGA
Disease Management Strategies
To be Considered Before Planting:
Geographic location
(avoidance)
Site selection
Site preparation
Cultivar resistance
clean planting stock
Red Ringspot VirusFrom infected nursery stock
Basic steps to establishing a new
blueberry planting:1. Select a well-drained site in full sun with an open,
porous soil – avoid clay soils.
2. Acidify the soil as needed for a pH of 4.0 to 5.0.
3. Have your soil tested, and adjust fertility levels (N-P-K) according to soil test results.
4. Purchase the correct species and cultivar(s) for your soil type and location.
5. If needed, add acidifying organic matter (peat moss, pine bark, or aged sawdust) to the soil.
6. Mix and mound the amended soil to form raised beds or raised rows before planting.
Basics of establishment (continued):
7. Plant dormant bushes in raised beds or rows, usually in late winter (Feb-Mar).
8. Prune at planting to keep only 3-4 upright shoots, and to reduce height by one-half to two-thirds.
9. At planting, remove all flower buds to prevent fruit production in the first year.
10. Provide water -- irrigation is essential for establishment and survival.
11. Maintain a weed- and grass-free zone around each plant.
12. Apply a 3-4-inch layer of surface mulch (pine bark, pine needles, wood chips, or woven plastic mulch).
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Blueberries on volcanic soils in Chile. Raised
beds, drip irrigation, mulch amendments, fertility
and pH adjustments through the drip line.
Early-ripening southern highbush in
bark beds, south Georgia, 2009
Bark mulch added to increase organic matter,
lower pH and improve drainage (note raised beds)
Surface mulch holds moisture and suppresses weeds. Use
organic mulch (bark, wood chips, pine straw), black plastic,
or weed barrier fabrics.Additional Considerations
Deep plowing may be needed prior to
bedding
Weed control (and pH, mulch) may take a
year to get right
If sulfur is needed for pH lowering, apply a
year ahead of time, and re-test
Drainage and raised beds are best
addressed before planting
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11
Continued -- Re-bedded area should be raised and
“fluffy” enough to plant with bare hands
Tissue culture plants are preferred, “Start
Clean and Stay Clean”
Buy extra for re-sets, double set a few
Weed matting or plastic (fumigation?)
recommended on previously planted areas
Irrigation is essential