Volume 62 ◭ Number 2 ◭ April-June 2018The Sierra Echo

The view from University Peak, August 5, 2017 (Photo by Coby King).

Bowman,butIlookforwardtothechallenge!Thisisagreatorganiza;on,andasonewholovesthemountains,Iamexcitedtopar;cipateinsustainingthemembershipandencouragingnewmemberstojoinus.Recentlywehaveseenanumberofnewmembersaddingtoourranks,andwewilldoourbesttocon;nuethistrend.Astrongmembershipgroup,alongwithcompetent,focusedleaderstoscheduletripsthroughouttheyear(yes,therearesomepeaksthatcanbedonein;mesotherthanthesummerseason!)keepsthesec;onaviableen;ty.YourthoughGulinputisinvaluableinmakingchangesandpromo;ngourmissiontoexplore,enjoy,andprotecttheSierra.Iencourageallofyoutobecomeinvolved,inwhateverwaysyouareable,toachievethegoals

Echoes from the Chair

Hello,myfellowSierraNevadapeak-baggers!IamveryhonoredtoserveyouastheincomingChairfor2018,tobeapartofouraugustorganiza;on.Ihavebigshoestofill,intakingthebatonfromTina

2 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

By Jim Fleming

In this issue:Chair’s Column 2Ballot Survey 2 Management Committee 3Member News 4-6Geological Time 7Banquet 8-10Lifetime Award 11-13Register Needs 13Trail Tech 14-15Outings 16-25Wilderness Permits 20SPS Treasurer’s Report 21Minutes 22-23Mystery Peak Challenge 24-25Passages: Frank Sanborn 26-29Passages: Fred Johnson 30-31Passages: RJ Secor Part 2 32-38Passages: Royal Robbins Memorial 39

inmakingusevenstronger!So,joinmeinmaking2018thebestyearitcanbe,exploring,enjoying,andprotec;ngtheSierraNevada!

JimFleming,chair@sierrapeaks.org

Theballottoelectthe2018SPSmanagementcommiTeealsoincludedthreesurveyques;ons.Herearetheques;ons,asummaryoftheresponses,andsomequotedreplies.

HowdidyoulearnabouttheSPS?FiWyofeighty-twopeoplevo;ngelectronicallyreplied.ManypeoplelearnedabouttheSPSthroughBMTC/WTC;somethroughHPS,DPS,andPCS(LomaPrieta’sPeakClimbingSec;on);Na;onalou;ngs;aCanyonExplorerstripledbyJerryKea;ng;andotherSierraclubhikes.Besidesmen;oningothermembers,anuncle,afather-in-law,andfriends,respondentsnamedspecificpeople:NileSorenson,RJSecor,JimWaTers,andRonBartell(twice).TheoldScheduleofAc2vi2es,registerentries,aFacebookpost,aSierraClubnewcomers’mee;ng,andtheinternetwereallcited.

WhydidyoujointheSPS?FiWy-fivepeoplerespondedtothisques;on.Besides“toclimbSierrapeaks”andlovingtobagpeaks,somerepliesfocusedonpeople:havingpeopletoclimbwith,mee;ngnewpeopletoclimbwith,climbingwithexperiencedpeople,makingfriends,andhavingmentors.Whileemblemsandgoalsweremo;vatorsforsome,goodleadershipwasadrawforothers.Ou;ngshelpsomepeoplemake;meformountaineeringandprovideagreatwaytoexploretheSierra.Severalpeoplenotedthevalueoflearningfromveteranclimberswhentheywerenewbies.SomesupportedSierraClubgoalsofpreserva;on.Andletusnotforget“Thelist,theorganiza;on,thecomradery,”“Becausetheyaresocool,”and“TheyRock...Climb”!

WhatcantheSPSdoforyou?Forty-eightrepliedtothisone.Somerepliesare,unfortunately,currentlybeyondthepoweroftheSPStoaddress:“Makemefortyyearsyounger.Thanks!”or“Givemelotsofmoney.”Notsurprisingly,manyrepliesfocusedonou;ngs,whethertospecificpeakssuchasNorthPalandSillormoregenerallyonou;ngstolistedpeaks,unlistedpeaks,ou;ngsthatwillbeaTrac;vetonewcomers(leadingtotheirbecomingmembers),mountaineeringou;ngs,

Ballot SurveyResponsesByTinaBowman

3SierraEcho▴April-June2018

ElectedJimFleming Chairchair@sierrapeaks.orgPaulGarry Vice-chair/banquetvicechair@sierrapeaks.orgAlexanderSmirnoff Treasurertreasurer@sierrapeaks.orgLauraNewman FiWhofficer/outreachoutreach@sierrapeaks.orgTinaBowman Secretary;na@bowmanchange.com

AppointedArchives DanRichterdan@danrichter.comConserva;onChair SharonMoorejustslm@earthlink.netEchoeditors TinaBowman;na@bowmanchange.com, BethEpsteinEchomailer TinaBowmanEmblemCommiTee PaulGarry,KathyRich,DarynDodge, ShaneSmith,RonBartellITSupport GregMasonadmin@sierrapeaks.org, MaTHengstmaThew.hengst@gmail.comKeeperoftheList TinaBowmanMerchandise PaTyKlinepatriciakline@aol.comMountainRecords HarryLangenbacherregister@langenbacher.orgOu;ngs GarySchenkgary@hbfun.orgSafetyChair DougMantleWebmaster JoeWankumjbwankum@aol.comAsst.Webmaster HarryLagenbacherregister@summitregister.org

RegionalRepresentaEvesSanDiego JoeWhiteCentralCalifornia DarynDodgeNorthernCalifornia LisaBarbozaEasternSierra ShaneSmith

2018 SPS Management Committee

MeetournewestElectedRepresenta;ve,LauraNewman,seenbelowonJeffDavisPeak.ShewillserveontheManagementCommiTeeasFiWhOfficer,inchargeofoutreach.Thanks,Laura!

trainings,slower-pacedtrips,moreou;ngs.Onepersonmen;oned,“Ihearcomplaintsfromsomeofmyclimbingfriendsthatit’sveryhardtogetontoanSPStripbecausetheyarefull.”Severalpeopleresponded,“Trytogetmoreofustosubmittripreports,”“KeepprovidingtheEcho,”and“Keepsendingnewsofinteres;ngtripsandinteres;ngascents––maybemorenewsaboutliTle-knownunlistedpeaksofinterest,andpeaksinareasthats;llneedprotec;on–-likeCannellPeak.”Otherswanta“goodnetworkofpeopletodoSierrapeakswith”andsuggest“Maybeimplementasystemwherepeoplegetno;fica;onsaboutupcomingtrips.”Maintainingregisters,encouragingmoreleaders,advoca;ng“tostreamlineoreliminatetheMOCprocessforpublishingrestrictedou;ngs”werealldesirable.

Twocommentssupportedconserva;on,suchas“Con;nuetobeastrongforceinintroducingfolkstotheSierrasandencouragingthemtoac;velyclimbandprotecttherange.Let’sgettheyoungerfolksthere!”OnerecommendedaddingMt.Hoffmantothelistbecauseitisprominentandhistoric(“JosiahWhitneyhimselfclimbedit”).Someothermiscellaneouscommentsincludeproviding“evenmore”informa;onaboutvarioustrails,goingtoSEKI[Sequoia-KingsCanyonNP]“thebestplaceonEarth!”,“Keepthetradi;onalive,”“KeeponbeingthewonderfulSPS,”and“AppointTinaChairmanforLife”(please,don’tgoTHERE!).

Don’t let your Sierra Echo subscription expire! The annual $10 subscription is due each year by January 1st and delinquent after March 31st.

For more information, see the back cover of this issue. Please make out checks to the Sierra Peaks Section and mail to the treasurer:

SPS Treasurer1701 Paloma St.Pasadena, CA 91104

Time to Renew

4 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

MikefirstdrovetoYosemiteValleyin2004forasolobackpackingtrip,anditwasloveatfirstsight.Hewassincebackpackedtheen;reJohnMuirTrailmul;ple;mesandtheSierraHighRouteandseveralyearsagostartedtakinganinterestinnotsimplyrunningandhikingamongthepeaksbuttoclimbingtothetopsofthem.Hehasbackpackedmountainrangesallaroundtheworld,includingAconcaguainArgen;na,buttheSierrawillalwaysbehome.HehassummitedthirteenSPSpeakssofarandplanstocompletetheSPSlistatleastonceinhislife;mewithabitofgoodluck.

Michael Chamoun

Previously,AmywasaSierraClubmemberwithouttheknowledgeoftheSierrabeinganactualplacewherepeoplecampedandclimbed.FromConnec;cut,shehadalsobeenac;velivinginSydney,Australia,beforecomingtoCaliforniain2011andleadingoutdoorclassesincross-fit.ShewasintroducedtotheSierrathroughtheSierraClub’sWildernessTravelCourse(WTC)withsnowcampingandthencomple;ngafewofthe14-erssuchasWhitney,Williamson,andLangleyanddoingexperiencetripslocatedintheeasternandsouthernSierras.ShewasinspiredtodosomeoftheSevenSummitsandhasrecentlysummitedKilimanjaroandMt.MeruinTanzaniaandAconcaguainArgen;na.Shehopestocon;nuewithclimbingMt.ElbrusinRussia.

Amy Huang

MegangrewupinthedesertandwasalwaysmostcomfortableinthatenvironmentbeforetakingWTCin2016anddiscoveringherinnersnowfox.Sincethenshe’srecentlycompletedherleadershipra;ngandmademanynewfriends,explorednewplaces,conquerednewpeaks,andhasafewstories/scarstoshowforit.SomeofherfavoritewildplacesincludeFlorencePeak(inSequoiaNP),theGrandCanyon,SalardeUyuni(Bolivia),thePeritoMorenoGlacier(Argen;na),andwhereverthenexttotaleclipsewillbe(VillarricaVolcano,Chile,December2020).Shelooksforwardtomee;ngmoreSPSersthisyearandtheadventurestocome.

Welcome new members!

Megan Birdsill

5SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Lisa Miyake

SinceclimbingMt.Whitneyasahighschoolstudent,StevehasreturnedtoWhitneyhalfadozen;mesandincludednearbypeaksinhisi;nerary.Havingdonethirty-fivepeaksontheSPSlist,he'scon;nuingtopursueSierraNevadasummitswithfriendsintheSPS.StevetookWTCin2003andwasaninstructorwiththeSanGabrielValleysec;onforseveralyears.Workandfamilyobliga;onsgotinthewayofgerngintotheSierraNevada,butsincere;ring,hehasmore;metodevotetohiking,backpacking,andmountaineering.

Steve Curry

Megan BirdsillNewmemberMeganBirdsill(seepreviouspage)hasaTainedherIra;ng.Congratula;ons!

LisaMiyakehasaTainedherMRa;ng.Congratula;onsandthankyouforleadingfortheSPS!

New for 2018––FREE First Year's Membership or Echo Subscription 

New Leaders!

Beginning in 2018 new subscribers and members can receive their first year’s subscription for free! See the Membership Application Form available for downloading on the Membership page at http://sierraclub.org/angeles/sierra-peaks/new-members#mr. Please contact the chair if you have any questions.

...and welcome back reinstated members!

6 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

OnOctober17,2017,WillWhitneyearnedhisAndySmatkoExplorerEmblemonRubiconPeak.

Will Whitney

RonhasbeenawardedhisSPSemblem,earnedonMt.Abbotin1980.

Ron Webber

(At right, Ron Webber on Mt. Humphreys, 2017.)

Congratula;onstoourchair,JimFleming,whowillbehonoredwiththeAngelesChapter’sLifelongServiceAwardattheChapterbanquetinMay.

Jim Fleming

Congratulations!

(Above: Jim Fleming near Three Sisters, August, 2013. Photo by Mumtaz Shamsee.)

7SierraEcho▴April-June201818

Thisquote–-“GeologicalTimeIncludesNow”––fromDesertSolitairebyEdwardAbbeymightcometomindasyouareworkingyourwayupatoughSierrapeakorasyouwitnessarockfall(Ihopefromasafedistance).However,itisbeTertocontemplateitonabeau;fulrockysummit,likelymadeofgrani;crockthatsolidifiedundergroundaround115millionyearsago.Thisisatough;mespantowrapyourheadaround;youcaneasilylookupadiagramofthegeologic;mescale,butitwillprobablymakeyoureyesrollbackintoyourhead.I’veincludedacoupleofillustra;onstomakeitmorerelatable.

Yes,thetoiletpaperrollrepresentstheen;retyofgeological;me.TheSierraformedduringthelasteighteeninches.Allthemajorglacia;onsthatshapedthepeaksyouseetodayoccurredonlessthanhalfofthefinalsquare.

So,whatdoesthishavetodowithconserva;on?LNT(LeaveNoTrace)tellsusrockisadurablesurface,butintruth,itcanbevulnerable.Atthemarginswheremetamorphicrockencountersgranite,prospectorsfoundveinsofsilverandgoldin

quartzveins.TheseandothervaluableoresaTractminingdevelopmentandtheinfrastructureitrequires.Onceamineplaysout,miningcompaniesfrequentlyabandonthisinfrastructureinplace.MiningalsogeneratesshaWs,adits,tailingpiles,andtoxicchemicals.MinesintheSierraaremostlypointsofhistoricalinterest,butthemercuryusedtoprocessoress;lllingersinsomeplaces.Youcanfindmoreinforma;onhere:hTp://www.sierranevadaconservancy.ca.gov/our-region/abandoned-mine-lands.Most,butnotallofthesesitesarenorthandwestofthehighestSierrapeaks.IntheEasternSierra,theLogCabinMineinLeeViningCanyonandtheGoldenGateMinelocatedwestofWalkeroperatedintothe20thCentury.ItseemsunlikelythatgoldminingwilleverbeamajorindustryintheEasternSierra,butthereares;llafewminesonthewestside.Miningclaimsareinessenceprivateproperty,soanyrevivalinminingac;vitycancreateaccessissues.Wecanhopethatwildernessdesigna;onswillkeepourpeaksopentoall,butifrecentexamplesofBearsEarsandGrand

StaircaseEscalanteareanyindica;on,wecannevertakethisforgranted.

Top: Shell Lake, just beyond Bennettville Mine in Lee Vining Canyon. The immediate area is metamorphic rock (schists and shales) but where it shifts to gray it also shifts to granite. This mine never produced any silver. Mt. Conness and North Peak are on the horizon (Photos by Sharon Moore).

BySharonMoore,SPSConserva2onChair

Geological Time Includes Now

8 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

KudostoBarbaraandDaveShollefordiscoveringthisyear’sbanquetspeaker,PatrickArmstrong,andasuperla;vechoiceheturnedouttobe.TheShollesheardPatatasmallpresenta;onatMammothLakesLibraryandknewhe’dbeperfectforouraudienceofclimbersandskiers.HisstoryofmeasuringthewatercontentofSierrasnowpackwithitsaTendantdangersandadventurewasonetowhichwecouldrelate.AWerChairTinaBowmanandRovingReporterExtraordinaireMaryMcMannesconferreduponoursec;on’smostillustrious

Top: Banquet chair Jim Fleming introduces speaker Patrick Armstrong (Photo by Dave Sholle). At right, left to right: Elena Sherman, Barbara Sholle, Doug Mantle, Don Sparks (Photo by Ellen Shumacher). Below: the audience at Almansor Court (Photo by Dave Sholle).

Dave Sholle took many other fine photos which can be seen here: https://sholle.smugmug.com/2018-SPS-banquet/2018-01-28-SPS-Banquet/n-NQ5XqK/

Sierra Peaks Section Banquet, 2018 ByMaryMotheral

9SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Top: Speaker Patrick Armstrong, second from left, then Alvin and Ellen Walter were among those who enjoyed handling the survey gear. Above left: Alexander Smirnoff, Patty Kline, Beth Epstein, Anne Mullins. Above right: Joy and Mark Goebel (Photos by Ellen Shumacher). At left: Dave Sholle, Greg Scarich, Gerry Holleman (Photo courtesy Dave Sholle).

member,DougMantle,thecovetedSPSLife;meAchievementAward,banquetchairJimFlemingintroducedPat,whoregaleduswithhisexperienceasasnowsurveyorinKernCanyonofSequoiaNa;onalParkandInyoNa;onalForestforforty-threeyears.Thedatasnowsurveyorscollectareusefultowateragenciesinregula;nganddispensingwaterallotmentsforagricultureandurbanareas.Hebroughttolifestaysina

stringofcabins,detailsabouttheirprovisioningandcomfortlevels,wildlife(coyotes,ravens,Clark’sNutCrackers),avalanchedanger,

blizzards,breakablecrust,andstreamcrossings.Ofinteresttoskiersinthegroupwashisloveforwaxingskis.Sometechnologycan’tbeimprovedon,likewaxingandthelongmetaltubesusedformeasuringthesnow’swatercontent.Onehumorousaccountwasencounteringabearwhohadmadehimselfathomeinoneofthecabins.Needlesstosay,herearrangedtheinsidetopromotehiscomforttothedetrimentofcleanlinessand;dinessandhelpedhimselftothekitchen’swintersupplyoffood.

PatlivesinBishopduringthewinterwithhiswifeMerryandrunsaranchinIdahoduringthesummer.In1972,hetrainedtojointheU.S.biathlonteam,hastaughtchemistryandelectronicsatthecollegeofIdaho,fishedcommerciallyinAlaska,andwasawildernesssupervisorfortheForestServiceinaddi;ontoworkingonsnowsurveysintheSierraNevada.Readerscanenjoymoreof

Pat’shistoryinhisbookTheLogofaSnowSurvey:SkiingandWorkingintheWinterWorldoftheSierraNevada.

10 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Above: left to right: Doris Gilbert, Henry Arnebold, Yvonne Jamison , Christine Bartell. At left: Ron Hudson, Karen Andersen, Jim Murphy (Photos by Ellen Shumacher). Below left: Merry Armstrong and her husband, speaker Pat Armstrong. Below right: new SPS members Sunny Yi and Jason Park (Photos by Dave Sholle).

11SierraEcho▴April-June2018

HewasSPSvicechair1974andchairin1975.He’sbeenonorsimplybeentheSPSSafetyCommiTeeforever.

HeearnedhisSPSemblemonMarch10,1972,justbeforeheturned22,andfinishedthelistonSeptember28th,1974,onCloudsRest–-forthefirst;me.Hewas,ofcourse,thefirsttocompleteitthesecond;me(CloudsRest,September1st,1982)andonlyperson–-sofar!–-tofinishitthree;mes,alsoonCloudsRest.Andthencame#4onIronMountain,September1,1993;#5onCloudsRest,October2nd,1999;#6onCloudsRestonSeptember9th,2005;and#7onCloudsRestonOctober11th,2014.(What’swithIronbeinginthere?)I’msure#8iswai;nginthewings.Let’snotevengointoDPSandHPSmul;plelistcomple;ons!

HehasclimbedtheSevenSummits,thehighpointsofEarth’ssevenlargestislands(andplentymore),justabouteveryhighmountaininSouthAmerica,thewesternstates’highpoints,andzillionsofothermountains.Itmightbeeasiertofigureoutwhathehasn’tclimbed.Oh,heloveslists!Howabout50ClassicClimbsinNorthAmerica?ClassicclimbsoftheSierra?Themindreels,itboggles,atthesheernumberofascents.

HewasawardedtheSPS’sLeadershipAwardin1998,thechapter’sOu;ngsServiceAwardin1981andChesterVersteegOu;ngsAwardin1987,andtheNa;onalSierraClub’sFrancisFarquhar

ByTinaBowman

There’saraceofmenthatdon’tfitinAracethatcan’tstays;ll;Sotheybreaktheheartsofkithandkin,Andtheyroamtheworldatwill.Theyrangethefield,andtheyrovetheflood,Andtheyclimbthemountain’screst;Theirsisthecurseofthegypsyblood,Andtheydon’tknowhowtorest.(RobertService)

Indeed,therecipientofourSPSLife;meAchievementAwardisaclimber,amanwhoisunabletorestaslongashislungsandlimbscantakehimtotheloWyclimes—butcontrarytothe

poem,hedoesfitinandisloved,cherished,andrespectedbyallinaTendancehere.

Atthe60thAnniversaryoftheSPS,hesuccessfullytoasted,teased,roasted,andadoredovertwo-hundredclimbingpeers,bothpastandpresent—didn’tmissoneofus.Barnone,themosteloquentandall-inclusivespeechI’veeverheardinmylife.Winstonianinhisdelivery,weallsatontheedgesofourchairs,afraidhe’dmen;onus,afraidhewouldn’t.Beware,mostassuredly,ourrecipienthasaphotographicmemoryorheWyjournals,becauseheknowswhereallourskeletonsarehidingorwheretheyareburied.

Thisyear’sdis;nguishedawardeeisoutstandingbeyondcompare,nobleofcharacter,brilliantofmind,toughas

First, the Facts

Atthe2018banquetwehadtwopresentersoftheSPSLife2meAchievementAward,sowehavethemorefactualbasisandthemorepersonalintroduc2onsoftherecipient—TheEditors

SPS Lifetime Achievement Award 2018

And Now the Good Stories

MountaineeringAwardin1994.So,thoughhe’stooyoungforit,we’regivinghimtheSPS’sLife;meAchievementAward.

Heis,ofcourse,DougMantle!

ByRovingGirlReporter,MaryMcMannes

Above, left to right: Tina Bowman, Doug Mantle, and Mary McMannes at the 2018 SPS banquet (Photo by Dave Sholle).

12 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

nails,andevenkind.Inhisyoungeryears,thefusewasshort,andyoudidn’twanttobecaughtinthehurricaneofhisdispleasure.Rangerswerewaryanddidn’tdare;nkerwithhisclimbingagendaortreadwhereangelsdarenotgo.Andforthepublicrecord,wearerelievedhedidnotkillRangerRandy,althoughhewasbrieflyconsideredasasuspect.Steadfastandenduring,he’srarelyknowntobackoutorcancelonamountain.LyingontheparkinglotofSt.Joe’sHospitalandwrithingwithkidneystones,hefinallycalled911foragurney.Surelyhe’dcancelhistriptoOregon’sNorthSister,scheduledthatsameweek,butknowinghimwell,weknewhewouldn’t.Andhedidn’t.

WilliamTeasdaleoncesaid,“Kindnessisthehighestformofintelligence.”HowmanyinthisassemblagehavenotbenefiTedincomple;ngtheSierraPeaksorDesertPeakslistsbecausehehelpedusbagthoselastandmostdifficultpeaks?GeneMaukwroteinarecentbirthdaycard,“Thanks,friend,forStarlight.”Manyofyouarethinkingofyourownpeakswherehecajoled,led,draggedyoutothesummits.RudyFleckrecallshuddlingevenfreezinginhis

tent,andakindhandreachedinwithawarmplateofdinner.Kind,yes,butthankGod,thesenseofirony,sarcasms,andpersnickety-nesscon;nues.

Bothnobleandatrueintellectual,hislongdrivestoandfromthemountainsarefilledwithclassical

musicasBrucknerblas;ngfromtheradioorlisteningtoHillsdalelecturesfromCicerotoSeneca.Heisexcep;onallywellread,and

Clockwise from top: Doug Mantle, John McCully and Bob Hicks on Needham, June 18, 1982 (Photo by Tina Bowman); Nile Sorenson and Doug Mantle (7x) on Clouds Rest list finish (Photo by Tina Bowman); Mary MacMannes, Greg Vernon, Pat Holleman, Doug Mantle, 2018 banquet (Photo by Dave Sholle).

13SierraEcho▴April-June2018

By Harry Lagenbacher2018SPSSummitRegisterNeedsThistabledoesn’ttellthewholestory,sopleasecontactHarryLangenbacheratregister@summitregister.org,and/orsee

hTp://summitregister.orgfordetailsandadvice.ThisisjustaquickupdateonthelistofSPSregisterneeds.Therewerejustafewmoredele;onsthanaddi;onssincelast

year.Ihavereceivednoupdatesformanyyearsonmanyofthepeaks––pleasekeepthereportscomingin!

AbbotMt All JuliusCaesarMt All SawtoothPkN Container

AgassizMt Container KaweahMt Container SillMt Container

AltaPeak All KernPeak Container SillimanMt All

BlackHawkMtn All MaTerhornPeak Book SplitMtn Book

BlackMtn Book MorganMtS All StanfordMtS All

CarillonMt Container MorrisonMt All StanislausPeak All

CathedralPeak All MosesMtn All StarrKingMt Container

ColosseumMtn move MuahMtn All TempleCrag All

ConnessMt All NeedhamMtn All ThreeSisters Book

DanaMt Book NorthPalisade Book TinemahaMt Container

EagleScoutPeak Book OlanchaPeak All TowerPeak Book

ElwellMt All PyramidPeakS Container TwinPeaksN All

EmersonMt Container RecessPeak All VandeverMtn All

EnglishMtn Book Red&WhiteMtn All VirginiaPeak AllExcelsiorMtn Container RoseMt All VogelsangPk BookFourGables All/move* RoundTop Book WhorlMtn All

GabbMt All RoycePeak All

GibbsMt Book SanJoaquinMtn All

“All”meansContainerANDBook*FourGablesisbare,boxchainedtowrongsummitnearby

Bolton Brown register (Photo by Matt Hengst).

hisone-thousand-pagebiographiesandcommentariescouldfillacouplesmallvans.AndoWenhereadsinSpanish.

Fiercelyloyaltohisfriendsandmanyadmirers,henevermetadinnerpartyora$60boTleofwinehedidn’tlike.He’smainlyasoloclimberwiththelists,butoncebacktothecity,herelishesthosedinnerpar;es.We’veobservedanalmostJeffersonianmannerwherehecanlurethemostshyandquietdinerintodiscussionsdominatedbymoreverboseandtalka;vefriends.NoblesseObligeisneveroutofstyle.

Movingonfromgutsandgloryinadarkenedmovietheater,somewhereintheSanFernandoValley,hehadclimbedEverest,purnghimonthemapwithworldclassclimbersandprofessionalguides,inpar;cularRobHallandGaryBall;“HallandBall,”rollsnicelyoffthetongue,nowbothdeceasedandburiedinthemountainheart.TheirswasEveresttheSuccess,May12,1992.

Fastforwardtothefilm,Everest,asRobHalllaydyingbelowEverest’stoweringsummit,May11,1996,exactly

fouryearsminusonedayfromthepreviousclimb.WehearHall’sactualvoiceandfinalwordsfromthesavedradiotransmissions,andIseetearsrollingdownourfriend’sface.It’spowerfulrealizingwhetherit’srepea;ngamagnificentspeechorreci;ngfrommemoryanepicpoemorthere-enactmentofthedeathofhisfriendthattoughguysdocry.

Finallyandinclosing,ourSPShonoredgueststartedhisclimbinglifeonKnapsackOu;ngstohighcampsinYosemite,1969andearly1970s.NormanClydewasslatedtobeonthe1970trip,butaherniaopera;onkepthimhome.SoonthereaWer,Clydewasgone,andnosecondchancesinmee;ngthislegendarymountaineer.Withavoiceofregret,hesays,“IalwayswantedtomeetNormanClyde.”

Somewhereoutthereinthetwilightofgodsandheroes,IamsurethespiritofNormanClydeissaying,“And,IalwayswantedtomeetDougMantle.”

Climberextraordinaire,humanbeingwondrous,DougMantle,comeforwardandacceptyourLife;meAchievementAwardfromyourmanyadmiringfriendsandfans.(wildapplause)

Lifetime Achievement Award, continued;

14 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

This continues a series of brief articles contributed by SPS members who would like to share information about their favorite pieces of trail technology. For this issue Barbara Lilley tells us about pieces of technical equipment that makes her life better in the mountains. How about you? Send your proposal or article to Tina Bowman at tina@bowmanchange.com

TrailTech

FORTHEHIKEShortgaitersareveryusefulinkeepingsand,gravel,

smallrocks,andvegeta;on(thinkfoxtails)outofyourbootsandsocks.

Smallpliersarehandyforrearrangingbarbedwireonfencestopermitpassage.

Asmallhandlevelisusefulwhenclimbingunlistedpeakstodeterminewhichpointishighest––avoidshavingtoclimbseveralsummitsorhavingtoreturnbecausethecorrectonewasn'tclimbed!

Purngscrewsinyourbootsoles(includingtheheel)tokeepthemfromcomingoffataninopportune;meandcarryingasmallone-usetubeofSuperglueforemergencyrepairs.Also,purngshoetreesinyourbootswhennotbeingusedhelpskeepthetoesfromturningup.

Apeakregister,toreplaceonethatisdamagedorthatvandalshavestolen––ortoputonanewpeak.Onesourceisaglassjarwithametaltop.NotebooksandpencilscanoWenbefoundatBigLotsstores.TomakeabeTerregister,paintthetopandwrapthejarwithducttape.Apencilsharpenerishandyalso.

Inmountainswherethunderstormsarecommonbutusuallygothroughfast,carryaplas;ctarp,underwhichonecanshelterin(hopefully)asafeplaceun;lthestormpasses.

INTHEVEHICLEAmongtheusualitems(towrope,shovel,smalltool

kit,jumpercables,cansofoilandbrakefluid),a;reinfla;ngdevice––evenasimplebicycle-stylepump––isVERYhandyforinfla;ngthatneglectedspareorpumpingupa;reenoughtodrivetoarepairfacility.Alsohandyis

By Barbara Lilley

Low-Tech Suggestions a12-voltimpactwrenchtoloosenthoselugnutsputinwithasimilardevicebythe;redealer.

Akitconsis;ngofwire,wirecuTer,andplierstoextendthewireonagatewhichisimpossiblefortheordinarypersontoclose.

Asmallpruningsawtocutthatbranchthatblocksyourwayorwantstoscratchyourpaint.(Smallpruningshearscanbeusefultoo.)

Araketoeraseyour;retrackswhenyouhavetopullofftheroadtopark.

Asiphontubefortransferringgasoline.

AlightwhichturnsonaWerdark,whichcanbeputontopofthevehicle.EvenwithGPS,awelcominglightinthedistancecanbeveryreassuring!

[WeaskedBarbaraformoredetailsabouttheautoma;clightforacarrooWop.Shesuggestedpossiblyusingasolar-poweredlightthatturnsonatduskandoffinthemorning,thekindoflightusedtolightwalkwaysandsuch.ShehasusedabaTery-operatedlightandmen;onedalightRichardCareyhadforfindingavehicleinthedark,soweaskedhimaboutit.––Theeditors.].

A Guiding Light

ThelightIusedsomeyearsagoisastrobelightthatIbuiltmyself.Ithadaslowflashrateandturnedonatdusk.UsedtwoCcells.WeuseditintheCabezaPrieta,GoldwaterareaofArizonaforsomelonghikeswhereweknewwewouldlikelyreturnaWerdark.Some;mesourvehicleswouldbeinawashandpossiblynotvisiblefroma

Hand level

By Richard Carey

15SierraEcho▴April-June2018

TrailTech, cont;

ThebaTery-poweredLightsUplightBarbaraLilleyboughtsomethirtyyearsagois,apparently,nolongeronthemarket,soBethEpsteinandIhavebeensearchingon-lineandinstoreslikeCostcoandLowe’sforalterna;ves.Varioussolar-poweredlightsthatturnonautoma;callyatduskandoffondawnareavailable,butyoumayneedtodoaliTleprojecttousethemasabeacononyourcarforreturningaWerdark.

Forexample,thestrobesoldbyGlobal(hTps://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/safety/Visual-Signal-Strobe-Lights/3337-00003-solar-powered-led-strobe-lights-white-bulb––thinkroadworkwarninglight–-whitebutavailableinothercolorsalso)needsabaseofsomesorttorestin,probablyeasilymade(aplas;cfoodstorageboxwithsandinitandaholecutinthetoptorestthebaseinorasmallconemightwork).AbaseisavailablethroughGlobal,butIdoubtanyonewantstolugarounda125-poundconcretebasewithasquarepostsetinit.

Thesolar-poweredLEDbulbmadebyKK.BOL(hTps://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JLJVHK/ref=psdc_14107631_t2_B01LXBBU3G)oronelikeitwouldalsoneedaholder(notethatthisonedoesn’tturnonandoffautoma;cally,soyouwouldneedtoturnitonandletit

runalldayonsolarpowerandhopethere’senoughchargeinthebaTeryforthelighttostayonun;lyou’reback).

Pathlightstendtobeverysimple,butifthesolarpanelisononesideofthedeviceandthelightontheother,thelightmightnotbesuitableforthisuseoffindingavehicleatnight(hTps://www.amazon.com/Segarty-Wireless-Aluminum-Sensor-Housing/dp/B01KNFBS02/ref=br_lf_m_rx8beqybgfcp6pe_Tl?_encoding=UTF8&s=home-garden).Insomeinstances,youcouldpropitupsothatthepanelgetssunlightbutthelampisaimedinthedirec;onofyourhike.

Forasolarfloodlight(hTps://www.amazon.com/MicroSolar-180-LUMEN-Automa;cally-Adjustable/dp/B00D3B1GLA/ref=br_lf_m_rx8beqybgfcp6pe_Tl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi)orspotlight(hTps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5EGOEN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N5EGOEN&pd_rd_wg=Lev6P&pd_rd_r=YGGGDFE6581XR50E55Z9&pd_rd_w=rNQrs),againyou’dneedtoprovideaholderforthelightandpossiblyoneforthesolarpanel,dependingonthemodel,especiallyifit’susedinawindyarea.Goodluck!

By Tina Bowman

Solar Lights for Your Car’s Roof

distance,soIputituponapoleabovemytruckaboutsixfeet.Thisunitwasaboutthesizeofathicksmartphoneandnottoohandyforsayabackpack.

LaterIbuiltonethatismuchsimplerthatusesredLEDlights.Theyarequitebrightbutmoredirec;onalthanastrobe.IbuilttwodifferentoneswhichuseAAcellsandareaboutthesizeofapackofcigareTes.Theyalsohavealightsensorandturnonatdusk.Idon'tknowofanyonthemarketlikethese.Moststrobesgoallthe;mewhenac;vated.ThesmallredstrobeslikebikeridersuseareclosetowhatImade,butagaintheydon'thavealightsensor.Alsotheyflashratherfast.Forfindingyourcaraslowrateofonceeverycouplesecondsisfine,anditsavesthebaTery.

Belowaretwostrobesthatwouldwork,buttheyaregoingtoflashallthe

;me.ThefirstisfromWestMarine:hTps://www.westmarine.com/buy/leland--personal-strobe-light--9391681?recordNum=2ThisisasmallerandcheaperdevicefromAmazon:hTps://www.amazon.com/UST-See-Me-Waterproof-Approved-Strobe/dp/B01BPJLCMY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1519505632&sr=8-15&keywords=light+strobe

Richard Carey’s signal strobe.

16 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Apr14|Sat LTCLeadershipTrainingSeminar:BecomeaqualifiedSierraClubleader.Forinforma;on,seetheLTCwebsite(hTp://angeles.sierraclub.org/ltc/).Nextseminar:Fall2018.

Apr18|Wed LTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):KnotsandBasicSafetySystems:Firstoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.Thiswillbeanindoorworkshopheldintheevening,reviewingropes,harnesses,helmets,basicclimbinggear,andknotsinprepara;onforlaterworkshops.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Apr21|Sat LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):BelaySkills:Secondoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.Thisworkshopwillfocusonbelayingandrelatedprinciples,star;ngwithstandardsportclimbingallthewayuptoadvancedtechniquestomovelargegroupsacrossdangerousterrain.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.Toregisterplease

seehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Apr21-22|Sat-Sun LTC,WTC,HPS,DPS,SPSI:NavigaEon:MissionCreekNavigaEonNoodle:Naviga;onnoodleatMissionCreekPreservetosa;sfythebasic(I/M)levelnaviga;onrequirements.Satforprac;ce,skillsrefresher,al;meter,homework,campfire.Suncheckout.Sendemail/sase,contactinfo,naviga;onexperience/training,anyWTC,leaderra;ng,ridesharetoLdr:RobertMyers.Asst:AnnShields.Note:Early(atleasttwoweekspriortotheevent)sign-upforallnaviga;oncheckoffsandprac;cesisrecommended.Theseou;ngsrequiresubstan;alpre-ou;ngprepara;onwork,includingcomple;onofbothacomprehensivewriTenexamandarouteplanningassignmentthatwillbemailedtoyoupriortothecheckoff.SeeChapter6oftheLeader’sReferenceBookformoreinforma;on.Sendcontactinforma;on(includingmailingaddress)andyourqualifica;onstotheleaderassoonaspossible.

Ascending Mt. Emerson on August 27, 2017 (Photo by Mat Kelliher).

OutingsWe’ve chosen the photo at left showing climbers ascending Mt. Emerson on an SPS trip to represent the outings section. Do you have a photo you would like to see here? If so, please send your submission as an email attachment to tina@bowmanchange.com or via USPS to Tina Bowman.

SPSouEngscanalwaysbeviewedonlineontheelectronicAngelesChapterScheduleofAcEviEes:hTp://angeles.sierraclub.org/ac;vi;eshTps://sierraclub.org/angeles/sierra-peaks/ou;ngs-schedule

17SierraEcho▴April-June2018

O U T I N G SApr28-29|Sat-Sun LTC,SPS,DPSM/E-R:Snow:SierraSnowCheckoff/PracEce:ForM&Ecandidateswan;ngtocheckoffleadershipra;ngs.Wewelcomeotherswhowishtoprac;cenewtechniques.RestrictedtoSCmemberswithsomepriorbasictrainingwiththeiceaxe.SendSC#,climbingresume,email,H&WphonestoLdr:NileSorenson.Co-Ldrs:NealRobbins,JackKieffer,PhilBates.

Apr28|Sat LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):Rappelling:Thirdoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.Thisworkshopwillfocusonrappellingusingavarietyoftechniqueswithaheavyemphasisonredundancy,safety,andefficiency.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

May4-6|Fri-Sun LTCC:WildernessFirstAidCourseatHarwoodLodge:Thecourserunsfrom7:15amFridayto5:30pmSunday.Feeincludesinstruc;on,lodging,andmeals.ProofofCPRwithinprevious4yrsrequiredtoenroll.Fee$250(fullrefundun;l9/22).Forsign-up,seeinstruc;onsandapplica;onatwww.wildernessfirstaidcourse.org

May5-6|Sat-Sun LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):AnchorsandReal-WorldApplicaEons:Fourthoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.ThisweekendcompletestheseriesofAMPworkshopsatJoshuaTreeNa;onalParkandfocusesonbuildinganchorsandapplyingpreviouslylearnedskillsinrealworldclimbingsitua;onswithmul;plepar;cipants.All

par;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

May19|Sat LTC,WTC,HPSI:NavigaEon:BeginningClinic:Spendthedayone-on-onewithaninstructor,learning/prac;cingmapandcompassinourlocalmountains.Beginnerstorustyold-;merswelcome,andprac;ceisavailableatallskilllevels.Notacheckout,butitwillhelpyouprepare.ManyexpertleaderswillaTend;manyI-ratedleadersstartedhereinthepast.4mi,500'gain.Sendsase,phones,rideshareinfo,$25deposit,refundedattrailhead(SierraClub)toLdr:DianeDunbar.Co-Ldr:RichardBoardman.

Jun16-17|Sat-Sun LTC,WTC,HPS,DPS,SPSI:NavigaEon:Mt.PinosNavigaEonNoodle:Naviga;onNoodleinLosPadresNa;onalForestforeithercheckoutorprac;cetosa;sfyBasic(I/M)orAdvanced(E)levelnaviga;onrequirements.Satforprac;ce,skillsrefresher,al;meter,homework,campfire.Suncheckoutoraddi;onalprac;ce.Sendemailwithcontactinfo,naviga;onexperience/training,anyWTC,leaderra;ng,rideshare,toLdr:RobertMyers.Asst:

Leaders in this issue’s schedule:PhilipBates949-786-8475philipabates@gmail.comMeganBirdsillmbirdsill@gmail.comRichardBoardman310-374-4371Jus;nBruno909-783-7697jus;nbruno@hotmail.comDianeDunbar818-248-0455dianedunbar@charter.netBethEpstein562-439-0646b.epstein@verizon.netMaThewHengstmaThew.hengst@gmail.comMatKelliher818-667-2490mkelliher746@gmail.comJackKieffer714-522-1376jockorock42@yahoo.comDanielKinzek818-891-9108dkinzek@yahoo.comPatrickMcKusky626-794-7321pamckusky@aT.netKateMiller310-592-7965miller.k8@gmail.comMarkMitchell818-753-9328markamitchell@aT.netRobertMyers310-829-3177rmmyers@ix.netcom.comJeremyNetka818-703-8607jnetka@gmail.comJimmyQuan626-688-6283h2o;gerjim@gmail.comSarahQuistsarahschuh@gmail.comDanRichter818-970-6737dan@danrichter.comNealRobbins310-540-5089neal.robbins@l-3com.comAnnShields818-637-2542apedreschi@sbcglobal.net

Visit the SPS website for an even more up-to-date listing of upcoming trips at http://www.sierraclub.org/sps

Also, please check at summitregister.org whether a peak needs a register book or pencil before you go on a climb.

18 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

AnnShields.Note:Early(atleasttwoweekspriortotheevent)sign-upforallnaviga;oncheckoffsandprac;cesisrecommended.Theseou;ngsrequiresubstan;alpre-ou;ngprepara;onwork,includingcomple;onofbothacomprehensivewriTenexamandarouteplanningassignmentthatwillbemailedtoyoupriortothecheckoff.SeeChapter6oftheLeader’sReferenceBookformoreinforma;on.Sendcontactinforma;on(includingmailingaddress)andyourqualifica;onstotheleaderassoonaspossible.

Jul28-29|Sat-Sun WTC,SPSMR:UniversityPk(13,589’):SatmorningwewilldepartontrailfromOnionValleyandmakecampaboveBenchLk.SunwewillleavecampatdawntomakeourwayupthemostlythirdclassNorthFacetothesummitforatotalof1.4miand2000’ofgain.AWersummi;ngwewillheadbackdowntocampviathesameroutewecameup,packupandheadout.ThisisaRestrictedMountaineeringou;ng,sopar;cipantsmustbecurrentSierraClubmembers,andmustsubmitaSierraClubMedicalFormtojointhetrip.Notethatpermit

severelylimitsgroupsize.Emailtheldrwithcontact&carpoolinfo,recentcondi;oningandexperience,includinghigh-al;tudeexperience,tobeconsideredforthistrip.Ldr:Jus;nBruno.Asst:MatKelliher.

Aug18-19|Sat-Sun WTC,SPSI:FlorencePk(12,438’):Joinusforanidyllicweekendinoneofthemostbeau;fulpartsofSequoiaNP!Totaltwo-daystats:20mi,4600’gain.Satmornwewillstayon-trailfor7mi, 2600’tomakecampatFranklinLakes.SunmornwewillriseearlytosummitFlorencePk(12,438)andtakeintheviewsoftheGreatWesternDividebeforesigningtheregisterandreturningthewaywecametobreakcampandhikebacktothetrailhead(13mi,2000’).Par;cipantsareencouragedtocampwithusatthetrailheadFrinight.Forconsidera;onpleasesendhikingresumeandcurrentcondi;oningtoLdr:MeganBirdsill.Co-ldr:SarahQuist.

Aug18-19|Sat-Sun WTC,SPSI:VogelsangPk(11,493’):JoinusforacoupleofpleasantdaysinwildlyscenicYosemiteNPonthisovernighttripto

O U T I N G S

Call for Outings!ByGarySchenk,Ou2ngsChair

ChangesarecomingtoSierraClubou;ngs:somewillaffectmembersabit;somewillaffectleadersalot.

Verysoonanewwaiverwillbeinuse.Thefinalwordingandformhavenotyetbeendecidedupon,butitwillbequiteadifference.Thisiscomingsoon.Wewillgetthewordouttoleadersassoonasthenewwaiverisfinalized.

OnechangethataffectsleaderswillbethenewfirstaidrequirementsfromtheSierraClubNa;onalOffice.TheywillgointoeffectSeptember1,2018.PreviouslyFirstAidexpiredaWerfouryears,regardlessofthedateprintedonthecer;ficatefromthecer;fyinggroup.

Thenewruleisthatfirstaidwillexpireasofthedateonthecardfromtheissuingorganiza;on.Soifthecardyouwereissuedsaysitexpiresintwoyears,thenyouwillhavetorenewfirstfidintwoyearsinordertoleadSierraClubtrips.Therewillbenograndfatheringinofexis;ngcer;fica;ons.So,ifyouplantoleadtripsthisyearaWerSeptember1andyourfirstaidcer;ficatehasanexpira;on

datethatexpireswhenthenewrulesgoineffect,besuretoschedulearefresherwellinadvance.

Youwon'tbeabletorelyontheautomatedexpira;onmessagesthatcomefromNa;onal.They'rebasedonthefour-yeardateweputintotheLEADERSdatabase,andwe'veaskedNa;onaltotakeonthetaskofchangingallthoserecordsforus.

MostbasicfirstaidandCPRcardshaveatwo-yearexpira;ondate.Manywildernessfirstaidcer;fica;onshaveathree-yearexpira;ondate.Atthis;metheAngelesChapterSafetyCommiTeewillcon;nuetorecognizeafour-yearexpira;ondatefortheWildernessFirstAidCourse.Web-basedfirstaidrenewalwillcon;nuetobeacceptedonanalterna;ngbasisasinthepast,meaningthatleaderscanrenewfirstaidon-lineifthepreviousclasswasaTendedinperson.

ManyleaderswillhaveexpiredFirstAidasofSeptember1.Aspartofyourtripplanningprocess,youmaywanttoincluderenewingyourfirstaidjusttobeonthesafeside.

ManythankstoSandyLaraandMatKelliherforhelpingtoputthisexplana;ontogether.

Ifyouhaveanyques;ons,pleasefeelfreetocontactmeatgary@hbfun.org

climbaclassicSierraPeakintheCathedralRange.SatwepackinoutofTuolumneMeadowsatarelaxed,butpurposefulpaceontrailalongsideRaffertyCreekupandoverTuolumnePassandbeyond.OncewereachVogelsangLk,wewilltravelx-carounditseasternshoreandsetupcampnearitsheadwaterstothesouth.Distanceforthedaywillbeabout8.0miwith1,900’gain.AtcampthatnightwewillcelebratethegorgeouscountrywefindourselvesinwithaFes;veHappyHourunderstarry,summer-nightskies.Sunwecon;nueoursoutherncoursex-cuptoandthenalongtheeasternridgeofVogelsangPktoitssummit,wherewewillsavortheexpansiveviewsallaroundusbeforeheadingbackdowntoourcampforatotalof2.0RTmiwith1,200’gain.Backatcampwewillpackupandheadoutthesamewaywecamein.Sa;sfiesWTCExperiencetriprequirements.Permitlimitsgroupsizeandpermitcosts(about$10perperson)willbesplitamongthegroup.EmailMatwithcontactandcarpoolinfo,recentcondi;oningandexperience,includinghigh-al;tudeexperience,fortripstatusanddetails.Ldrs:MatKelliher,JimmyQuan.

Aug24-26|Fri-Sun SPSI:ArrowPk(12,939’):Grindofaclimboverapasstoreachabeau;fulspot,aboutwhichR.J.Secorwrites:oneofthefinest(views)intheSierra.Andtheviewfromthesummitisn’tbadeither.Fri,startat5,430’inthedesertforverystrenuous6,000’climbto11,360’TaboosePass,thendroptoBenchLkfortotalof12mi.Sat,moderatelystrenuous6mi,2,400’gain/lossoff-trailascentofSPS-listedArrowPeak.Sun,returntocars.Althoughpacewillbemoderate,mustbeinverystrongphysicalcondi;onandcomfortablewithsteep,off-trailhiking.Snowcancelstrip.Send$10permitfee,2SASEoremail,H/W/cellphones,recentcondi;oning,experience,ridesharetoLdr:MarkMitchell,Co-Ldrs:BethEpstein,DanielKinzek

Aug25-26|Sat-Sun WTC,SPSI:SawtoothPk(12,343’):JoinusforaweekendinthegorgeousMineralKingareaofSequoiaNP.We'llclimbSawtoothPk,anSPSpeakwithstunning360degreeviews.OnSatmorning,we'llmeetinMineralKingandbackpackatamoderatepaceuptoLowerMonarchLk(4.5mi,2700'gain).We'llcampatthelake,wherewecanswim,fish,relax,andenjoygoodiesathappyhour.Sundaymorning,we'llhikefirstontrailuptoSawtoothPass,thengocross-countrytoSawtoothPkviaitsnorthwestridge(2.2mi,2300'gain).AWerabreakonthepeaktosoakupthescenery,we'llheadbacktocamp,packup,andreturntothecars.Permitlimitsgroupsize.PrioritygiventoWTCstudents.Pleasesendemailwith

19SierraEcho▴April-June2018

O U T I N G S

Sunny Yi sent this photo from her December 2, 2017, climb of Thor Peak with Jay Park and Tay Lee. They started at 7:00 a.m., summited at 1:30, and returned at 6:30 on a 10.8 mile dayhike with 4100’ of gain, wind and snow. “Not easy, but it was fun.”

Send us your stories and pictures!

20 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

contactinfo,hikingresume,condi;oning,andal;tudeexperiencetotheldrs:KateMiller,JeremyNetka.

Sep8-9|Fri-Sun SPSER:ThunderboltPk(14,003’):ClimboneofthemostspectacularandtechnicalMountaineers’Peaks.EarlyFridepartfromSouthLakeParkingLotBishopPassTH.HikeontrialtoBishopPass,con;nueofftrialtomakecamponbenchesSEofThunderboltPass(7mi,3000’gain).AlpinestartSuntoclimbThunderboltviaSouthwestChute1(1mi,1800’gain).WewillreturntocampandTHviasameroute.Technicalgear:climbinghelmet,alpineharness,ATC,2standardand1double6mmprusiks,2lockingbiners,1non-lockingwiregatebiner.Mandatoryalpineclimbingskills:rappelling,ascendingropewithprusiks,andclimbingonclass

4terrain.Emailclimbingresume,andal;tudetraininginfotoLdr:PhilipBates.Asst.Ldr.NealRobbins.

Sep23|Sun LTC,WTC,HPS,DPS,SPSI:NavigaEon:Mt.PinosNavigaEonNoodle:Naviga;onNoodleinLosPadresNa;onalForestforeithercheckoutorprac;cetosa;sfyBasic(I/M)orAdvanced(E)levelnaviga;onrequirements.Sendemailwithcontactinfo,naviga;onexperience/training,anyWTC,leaderra;ng,rideshare,toLdr:RobertMyers.Asst:AnnShields.Note:Early(atleasttwoweekspriortotheevent)sign-upforallnaviga;oncheckoffsandprac;cesisrecommended.Theseou;ngsrequiresubstan;alpre-ou;ngprepara;onwork,includingcomple;onofbothacomprehensivewriTenexamandarouteplanningassignmentthatwillbemailedtoyoupriortothecheckoff.SeeChapter6oftheLeader’sReferenceBook

O U T I N G S

In addition to the permit information described below, most reservations for the Inyo National Forest and the Desolation Wilderness up to 48 hours in advance of entry can be handled at: http://recreation.gov 

INYO NATIONAL FOREST Web site: www.fs.usda.gov/main/inyo/homePick up permit closest to departure trailhead.

Eastern Sierra InterAgency Visitor Center, Lone Pine, CA (760) 876-6200

White Mountain Ranger Station, Bishop, CA 93514 (760) 873-2500

Mammoth Lakes Visitor Center, Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546 (760) 924-5500

Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center, Lee Vining, CA 93541 (760) 647-304

KERN PLATEAUWeb site: www.r5.fs.fed.us/sequoia

Cannell Meadow Ranger District 105 Whitney Road P.O. Box 9Kernville, CA 93238Phone: 760/376-3781 fax: 760/376-3795

Tule River Ranger District32588 Highway 190Springville, CA 93265Phone: (559) 539-2607

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK Web site: www.nps.gov/yoseReservation requests for summer trips (mid-May through September) are accepted from 2 weeks to 24 weeks in advance on-line or by writing toYosemite AssociationPO Box 545Yosemite, CA 95389

By phone: reservations for summer trips are accepted by calling (209) 372-0740.

Obtain your free permit from the Wilderness Permit Station nearest your departure trailhead. Call (209) 372-0200 for permit station locations.

If entering park from Cherry Lake in the Stanislaus National Forest to Kibbie Lake and Lake Eleanor in

Yosemite, you must get your permit from the Stanislaus National Forest Ranger Station on Highway 120 in Groveland. Call (209) 962-7825.If entering the park from Chiquito Pass in Sierra National Forest, permits for the whole trip must be obtained from the forest Service in North Fork. Call (559) 877-2218

SEQUOIA AND KINGS CANYON NP Web site: www.fs.usda.gov/sequoia47050 Generals HighwayThree Rivers, CA. 93271-9599Phone (559) 565-3766 for permit & trail info. Fax (559) 565-4239

SIERRA NATIONAL FOREST (WESTSIDE) ENTRYWeb site: https://www.fs.usda.gov/sierraAnsel Adams Wilderness–North Bass Lake Ranger District57003 Road 225North Fork, CA 93643Phone: (559) 887-2218

Ansel Adams Wilderness–South John Muir, Kaiser and Dinkey Lakes WildernessesPineridge/Kings River Ranger District 29688 Auberry RoadPrather, CA 93651 Phone: (559) 855-5355

Wilderness Permit Info

formoreinforma;on.Sendcontactinforma;on(includingmailingaddress)andyourqualifica;onstotheleaderassoonaspossible.

Oct10|Wed LTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):KnotsandBasicSafetySystems:Firstoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.Thiswillbeanindoorworkshopheldintheevening,reviewingropes,harnesses,helmets,basicclimbinggear,andknotsinprepara;onforlaterworkshops.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Oct13|Sat LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):BelaySkills:Secondoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.This

21SierraEcho▴April-June2018

O U T I N G S

SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017SPS Income Statement 11-19-2017

YTD YTD YTD YTD YTD YTD Final Final Final Final Final Final2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

INCOMEEcho Subscriptions 1,330 650 320 200 100 40 1,835 1,360 1,560 1,560 1,630 1,580 Banquet Income 2,650 - - - - - 2,800 2,940 4,610 4,110 3,760 2,795 Donations 625 265 135 60 30 - 340 440 575 651 873 670 Merchandise Sales 58 - - - - - 39 27 276 395 262 112

- - - - - - - - - - - - Total Income 4,663 915 455 260 130 40 5,014 4,732 7,041 6,731 6,525 5,157

EXPENSESPostage (7) - - - - - 609 -4 14 938 522 321 Printing (12) - - - - - 578 898 640 706 433 430 Merchandise - - - - - - - - 196 234 130 - Raffle - - - - - - - - 250 - - - Banquet Expenses 3,715 - - - - - 3,216 4,206 5,640 4,772 4,710 3,553 Bank Fees - - - - - - 18 2 10 6 18 12 Website 20 - - - - - - 268 36 84 96 Charitable contributions - - - - - - 400 - - 200 200 200 Outreach - - - - - - - - - 899 254 82 Membership meetings/activities 61 - - - - - - - - 1,257 174 - Register Related - - - - - - - - - - 57 -

- - - - - - - - - - - - Total Expenses 3,777 - - - - - 4,821 5,103 7,019 9,048 6,583 4,694

OVERALL TOTAL 886 915 455 260 130 40 193 (371) 22 (2,317) (58) 463

REGARDINGDISTRIBUTIONOFTHEECHOPleasecontactthisemailaddressnewsleTer@sierrapeaks.orgforanyproblemswithdistribu;onofhardcopyoremailversions.

22 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

O U T I N G Sworkshopwillfocusonbelayingandrelatedprinciples,star;ngwithstandardsportclimbingallthewayuptoadvancedtechniquestomovelargegroupsacrossdangerousterrain.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Oct20|Sat LTC,WTC,HPSI:NavigaEon:BeginningClinic:Spendthedayone-on-onewithaninstructor,learning/prac;cingmapandcompassinourlocalmountains.Beginnerstorustyold-;merswelcome,andprac;ceisavailableatallskilllevels.Notacheckout,butitwillhelpyouprepare.ManyexpertleaderswillaTend;

manyI-ratedleadersstartedhereinthepast.4mi,500'gain.Sendsase,phones,rideshareinfo,$25deposit,refundedattrailhead(SierraClub)toLdr:DianeDunbar.Co-Ldr:RichardBoardman.

Oct20|Sat LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):Rappelling:Thirdoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.Thisworkshopwillfocusonrappellingusingavarietyoftechniqueswithaheavyemphasisonredundancy,safety,andefficiency.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceandcommittoallfourclasses.Toregisterplease

SPSManagementCommieeeMeeEngMinutesWednesday,December13,2017,7:00p.m.

AlexanderSmirnoff’shome1701PalomaSt.,Pasadena91104

1.Calltoorder:presentwerechairTinaBowman,vice-chairJimFleming,treasurerAlexanderSmirnoff,andviaphonesecretaryPaulGarry.2.Standardbusinessandreports a.Approvalofminutes––doneviaemail b.Chair––reportunderothersubjects c.ViceChair––Banquet i.Wewillpaythespeaker,PatArmstrong,a $300honorariumandcoverhistravel expenses. ii.Tinawillbringprojector,back-up computer.We’lltakeSPSs;ckersandthe banner. iii.JimwillgetplaqueforLife;me AchievementAward. iv.TinawillaskLisatopostontheSPS Facebookgroupaboutthebanquet.

v.DiscussionofhavingaPowerPoint slideshowofphotosofR.J.Secortorunduring thesocialhour(BrianSmithapossiblesource ofimages)

d.Ou;ngs––noreport e.Treasurer’sreport i.$6261balance ii.TinabroughtuptheSierraClubdirec;veto divestouraccountfromWellsFargo(bigoil investments).ShewillaskLauraNewman, treasurerforDPSandHPS,togiveAlexander informa;onaboutthat.

f.EmblemCommiTeeReport––NileSorensonhasappliedfortheSmatkoAward.PaulneedsNile’slastpeakanddatetosendtoDanRichterforarchivesandforpos;ngonthewebsiteandprin;ngintheEcho.

g.Outreach––noreport h.Archivist––noreport i.Echo

i.February22nddeadlinefornextissueii.Handovermoreoldissuestobescannedanduploadedtothewebsite––previousissuesnotscannedyetiii.MovetoHTMLversion?––nodiscussion

j.MountainRecords––noreport k.IT––noreport l.Website––noreport

m.Conserva;on––noreport n.SafetyChair––noreport3.Oldbusiness a.UnofficiallynameapeakforAndySmatko?Mark Alleniswillingtomakeasign. c.LauraNewmaniswillingtorunforthemanagement commiTee.4.Newbusiness

a.Leaderawardsforleadingthemostou;ngs––havea listfromGarySchenk

b.Elec;on—Tinawillgetsomeoneontheelec;oncommiTeetosetupaSurveyMonkeyballot,thelinkforwhichshe’llemailtomembersalongwiththebanquetflyerandEchosubscrip;onrenewalform,andwillmailapaperballotwiththeflyerandformtothefewmemberswithoutemail.We’llaskthreesurveyques;ons:HowdidyoulearnabouttheSPS?,Whydidyoujoin?,andWhatcantheSPSdoforyou?c.ShouldweofferanyscholarshipsforleaderstotakeCPS,firstaid,orwildernessfirstaid?No.ThosewhoneedsscholarshipscanapplytotheLTCchair,whocanthenrequestascholarshipthroughtheAngelesChapterFounda;on.d.ThechapterbanquetisMay6th.e.MemorialhikeforRJonApril15thf.Nextmee;ngdate––Monday,February12,2018,7:00

p.m.,atAlexander’shome.

23SierraEcho▴April-June2018

SPSManagementCommieeeMeeEngMinutesMonday,February12,7:00p.m.AlexanderSmirnoff’shome

1701PalomaSt.,Pasadena91104

1.Calltoorderat7:10.PresentwerechairJimFleming,vice-chair/banquetPaulGarry,treasurerAlexanderSmirnoff,secretaryTinaBowman,andfiWhofficer/outreachLauraNewman.2.Standardbusinessandreports

a.Approvalofminutes—TinawilldraWminutesforDecemberandsendbyemailforcorrec;onsandapproval.Paulwilladdhisnoteswheretheminutesaren’tcomplete.b.Chair––noreportfrompastchairasidefromcommentsonothertopicsc.ViceChair––Banquetpostmortem

i.SixtypeopleaTended;everyonewhoboughta;cketwaspresent.ii.Lost$1,067onthebanquet.iii.AlmansorCourtokfor2019;datesetforJanuary27,2019;SophieTayloraspossiblespeakerontheSevenVolcanoes.

d.Ou;ngs––noreport.GarySchenkmaybere;ringasou;ngschairsome;methisyear.e. Treasurer’sreport

i.Currentbalanceof$9,183.70ii.Forty-sevenpeoplehaven’trenewedtheirsubscrip;onsyet.Alexanderwillprovidealist,andwewillchoosewhomtocontact.

f.EmblemCommiTeeReporti.WillWhitneyhasappliedfortheSmatko;onepeakonhislistisques;onable.ii.ShaneSmiths;llhasn’tsuppliedpeakstomakeupfortwoorthreethatwerenotallowed.

g.Outreachi.LauraneedstobeanadministratorfortheFacebookGroup.Paulsetthatup.

ii.LaurasuggestedSPSbusinesscardstoplaceinregistersforpeopletotakewithourwebsiteaddressandbasicinforma;on.

h.Archivist––JimgaveDanaboxandnotebookofmaterialsthatweregiventohimatthebanquet.i.Echo

i.February22nddeadlinefornextissueii.Handovermoreoldissuestobescannedanduploadedtothewebsite––Lauraiswillingtoscaniii.MovetoHTMLversion?––nodiscussion

j.MountainRecords––noreportk.IT––Tinawillseewhetherthere’sadiscrepancybetweentherosterasmaintainedbyAlexanderandtheGoogleemailgroup.l.Website––keepsierrapeaks.organotheryear?Yes.JimwillcontactGregMason.m.Conserva;on––noreportn.SafetyChair––noreport

3.Oldbusinessa.UnofficiallynameapeakforAndySmatko?SignwillbemadebyMarkAllen.Jimwillcheckonprogress.b.WelcomenewmembertoMcomm––LauraNewmanc.OfferingscholarshipsforleaderstotakeCPR,firstaid,orwildernessfirstaid(revisit)––no,handledthroughLTCandtheAngelesChapterFounda;ond.MemorialhikeforRJSecoronApril15th(reminder).

4.Newbusinessa.NewMcommposi;ons

i. Determinethem!See1.aboveforwhoisinwhichposi;on.

ii.TinawillletBrianDecker(OMCchair),PhilWheelerfortheHELENdatabase,andJoeWankumforthewebsiteknowwhoisdoingwhat.

b.Nextmee;ngdate––Monday,April9th,7:00p.m.,atAlexander’s.

O U T I N G SseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Oct27-28|Sat-Sun LTC,SPS,DPS,WTCM/E-R:AdvancedMountaineeringProgram(Spring2018):AnchorsandReal-WorldApplicaEons:Fourthoffourclimbingworkshopsaimedatdevelopingskillsfor3rd,4th,and5thclassclimbingbothasapar;cipantorafutureSierraClubMandEleader.ThisweekendcompletestheseriesofAMPworkshopsatJoshuaTreeNa;onalParkandfocusesonbuildinganchorsandapplyingpreviouslylearnedskillsinrealworldclimbingsitua;onswithmul;plepar;cipants.Allpar;cipantsmusthavepriorropedclimbingexperienceand

committoallfourclasses.ToregisterpleaseseehTp://www.advancedmountaineeringprogram.orgLdr:MaThewHengst.Assts:DanRichter,PatrickMcKusky.

Nov10-11|Sat-Sun LTCM/E-R:Rock:SheepPass/IndianCoveJoshuaTreeRockCheckoff&PracEce:M&Elevelrockcheckoffandprac;ceforLTCleadershipcandidateswishingtopursueara;ngorprac;ceskills.AlsoopentoAdvancedMountaineeringProgramstudentswan;ngtosolidifywhattheylearnedinthecourse.Prac;ceSatandop;onallycheckoffSun.Restrictedtoac;veSierraClubmemberswithpreviousrockclimbingexperience.Climbinghelmetsandharnesses

24 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Mystery Peak Challenge Answer

RonBartellwasthefirsttoanswerShaneSmith’spuzzlecorrectly:theKaweahsareundertheB-52,theupperbomberinthephoto,withBigKaweahontheleWandRedandBlackfartherright.GregGerlachwasalsocorrectabouttheKaweahs.RonaddedthatphotowastakenfromoverOwensValley,moreorlessoverOwensLk,CirquePkisjustabovethenoseoftheB-2;MtGuyotisundertheleadingedgeoftheB-1'swing;MtEisenisleWoftheB1'stail;LippincoTMtnisjustrightofB-1'stail.PleasenotethatthesummitofCirqueisactuallybythetailoftheB-2.

required.Emailclimbingresumetoleadertoapply.Ldr:PatrickMcKusky.Asst:DanRichter.

Nov17-18|Sat-Sun LTC,WTC,HPS,DPS,SPSI:NavigaEon:WarrenPointNavigaEonNoodle:Naviga;onnoodleatJoshuaTreeNa;onalParkforeithercheckofforprac;cetosa;sfythebasic(I/M)levelorAdvanced(E)levelnaviga;onrequirements.Satforprac;ce,skillsrefresher,al;meter,homework,campfire.Suncheckout.Topar;cipate,sendemailwithcontactinfo,naviga;onexperience/training,

anyWTC,leaderra;ng,ridesharetoLdr:RobertMyers.Asst:AnnShields.Note:Early(atleasttwoweekspriortotheevent)sign-upforallnaviga;oncheckoffsandprac;cesisrecommended.Theseou;ngsrequiresubstan;alpre-ou;ngprepara;onwork,includingcomple;onofbothacomprehensivewriTenexamandarouteplanningassignmentthatwillbemailedtoyoupriortothecheckoff.SeeChapter6oftheLeader’sReferenceBookformoreinforma;on.Sendcontactinforma;on(includingmailingaddress)andyourqualifica;onstotheleaderassoonaspossible.

Dec9|Sun LTC,WTC,HPS,DPS,SPSI:NavigaEon:WarrenPointNavigaEonNoodle:Naviga;onnoodleatJoshuaTreeNa;onalParkforeithercheckofforprac;cetosa;sfythebasic(I/M)levelorAdvanced(E)levelnaviga;onrequirements.Topar;cipate,sendemailwithcontactinfo,naviga;onexperience/training,anyWTC,leaderra;ng,ridesharetoLdr:RobertMyers.Asst:AnnShields.Note:Early(atleasttwoweekspriortotheevent)sign-upforallnaviga;oncheckoffsandprac;cesisrecommended.Theseou;ngsrequiresubstan;alpre-ou;ngprepara;onwork,includingcomple;onofbothacomprehensivewriTenexamandarouteplanningassignmentthatwillbemailedtoyoupriortothecheckoff.SeeChapter6oftheLeader’sReferenceBookformoreinforma;on.Sendcontactinforma;on(includingmailingaddress)andyourqualifica;onstotheleaderassoonaspossible.

25SierraEcho▴April-June2018

Thisoccasionaljust-for-funpuzzleisforyoutofigureoutwhichSierrapeakorpeaksarefeaturedintheimage.IfyouhaveafinemysterypeakpuzzletochallengeEchoreaders,pleasesendittoEna@bowmanchange.com.Wewelcomeanymountainimages,includingthosefrompopularculture–imageryusedandabusedinfilmandprint!

Mystery Peak Challenge

HalBrowdersentusthislovelyphotoofanSPSpeak.Whatpeakisitandwhichlakeisitreflectedin?

SendyouranswertoTinaBowmanatEna@bowmanchange.com.

TheSierraEchois a quarterly publica/on of the Sierra Peaks Sec/on of the Sierra Club’s Angeles Chapter. For more informa/on, see the back of this newsle@er. All ques/ons, copy, and photo submissions should be directed to Tina Bowman, Editor, The Sierra Echo, preferably via email at /na@bowmanchange.com. Refer to the SPS Roster for mailing address. The Echo will also be available as a PDF download at the SPS website and via a link sent to all SPS members op/ng for this method.

26 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

IhadjustjoinedtheSierraClubinMay1953whenIfirstmetFrankSanborn.Severalofus1953"newcomers"werecampedatthemouthofBigRockCreek,onthenorthflankoftheSanGabriels,whenawell-built,deep-voicedmandressedinabrownpulloversweaterwalkedovertoourcampsite,introducedhimselfand—aWersomesmalltalk—invitedustojoinhimonabackpackinSequoiaNa;onalParkthathewasorganizing.ThenameFrankSanbornmeantnothingtousthen,buthisknowledgeandpersuasivenesshadastronginfluenceonus.Nextday,wefollowedatrailatabriskpaceuptowardIslipSaddle,andFrankagainaskedustojoinhimonabackpack.Thinkinghispacewastoofast,severalofthenewcomersturnedhimdown.ButIenjoyedthepaceand,onceonthesummitofMt.Williamson,IagreedtogoontheSequoiatrip.Onetripledtoanotherandthenanother,andIbecameoneofFrank'sloyalsummergang,withalterna;ngtripstothewestsideoftheSierraandthemoreprecipitouseastflank.Iwasawayonmilitaryduty

inKoreamostofthesummerof1955butreturnedtocivilianstatusinSeptembertopar;cipateintheofficialbirthoftheSierraPeaksSec;on.Sincethen,I'vebeenprivilegedtohavemaintainedcontactwithFrankformorethanahalf-century.WithhispassingonJanuary21of2018,it's;metolookbackwithadmira;ononhisimportancetotheSPS.SierraNevadahikersinthe1950s,oWenpassed—orwerepassedby—animposing,steady-pacedyoungmanwithadeepbaritonevoice.Heusuallywasfollowedbyeighttotenbackpackers,someofthemstrugglingtokeepup.Allwererelievedwhenbasecampwasreached¸usuallybymid-aWernoon.Nextmorning,theleaderrousedhispartyearlyandsetoffforanearbypeak,reachedthesummit,signedtheregister,thenbriskly

headedhome.Theleaderofthis—andmanyotherHighSierrabackpacks—wasFrankSanborn.

FrankwasborninFlint,Michigan,onDecember28,1925.HespenthisearlyyearsinFlintandthenearbytownsofPon;acandBerkley.HewascalledtomilitarydutyduringWorldWarIIandservedasacombatinfantrymanineasternFranceandinGermany. AWerthewar,hereturnedhomeandenrolledattheUniversityofMichiganwithamajoringeography.

AbigchangeinFrank'slifeoccurredinAugust1949.Heaccompaniedhisfamilyonacross-countrydrivetoCalifornia.HecrossedtheSierraviaLakeTahoeandEchoSummitandwasimpressedwiththemagnificentscenery.Thefamilycon;nuedwesttothePacificOceanandjourneyedsouthonHighway1toSouthernCalifornia,wheretheyseTledfirstinInglewood.

P A S S A G E S

December 28, 1925 - January 21, 2018Frank Sanborn

By John Robinson

June 16, 1962: Frank Sanborn displays the SPS flag atop Mt. Goode on an SPS trip run jointly by the SPS and the Mother Lode Chapter. The group camped along the snow-covered Bishop Pass Trail and climbed Mt. Agassiz on June 17. Leaders were John Robinson and Jerry Keating. John's trip report appeared in the July-August 1962 issue of The Sierra Echo. Thirty-three persons were on the trip, and twenty-three climbed Goode the first day in what started out in gloomy weather but cleared up on the summit. Clouds prevailed the next day on the Agassiz climb (Photo by John Robinson).

27SierraEcho▴April-June2018

FrankenrolledatUCLAandcompletedworkonhisbachelor'sdegreeingeographyinApril1950.Whilethere,hejoinedtheUCLAGeographicSocietyandwiththatorganiza;onmadehisfirstbackpacksintotheSierra.HelearnedoftheSierraClubandquicklyjoinedthatorganiza;on,too.Frankwasnowhooked.Byyear'send,hewasbackpackingintheSierra,exploringthedesert,orclimbingthemountainsaboveLosAngeles.

By1951,FrankwasrecognizedasoneofthetopAngelesChapterleaders,onparwithsuchluminariesasNilesandLouiseWerner,JohndelMonte,WarrenFlock,HowardHill,andToniGamero.

HisfirstlovealwayswastheSierraNevada.Franksoughtoutlike-mindedhikerstojoinhimonSierrabackpacks,andfoundthefirstone,FrankBressel,whoworkedatNorthAmericanAvia;oninElSegundo.Gradually,moreenthusiastsjoinedFrankS.onhisweekendou;ngs,alterna;ngbetweentheruggedeastfaceoftheSierraandthemoregentlewesternside.Frankwaspar;cularlynotedforhisgraphicandcolorfullanguageoftripwrite-ups.

OneofFrank'spetpeeveswasthatwhiletherewasaDesertPeaksSec;onandaHundredPeaks"game"intheAngelesChapter,therewasnoorganiza;ondedicatedtoclimbingSierrapeaks.ManyfelttherewasnoneedforaSierraPeaksSec;on,asthedrivetothetrailheadswouldbetoolong.IfanyonewantedtosampletheSierra,thatpersoncouldjoinaDesertPeaksSec;ontrip.TheDesertPeakersatthat;mewereauthorizedtoleadoneortwoclimbsintheSierraeachsummer.

ThisgratedonFrank.HehadbeenleadingSierrabackpacksandclimbssincethesummerof1951andfoundthempopularandwellaTended.Hecon;nuedlobbyingforaSierraPeaksSec;on.Un;l1955,theAngelesChapterExecu;veCommiTeewasgenerallyunmovedbythegrowingcallforanSPS.Now,theywereforcedtolisten.By1955,nonscheduledtripsoutnumberedscheduledonesbysixtooneintheSierra.Frankwastoldthatastatementofpurposeandaninterimsetofofficershadtobeselectedtoguidetheaffairsoftheproposednewsec;on.

InJuly1955,Frankheadedadelega;ontospeaktotheExecu;veCommiTee.WithhimwereChuckMillerandPatMeixner.Inashortspeech,mademoreimpressivebyhisdeepbaritonevoice,FrankexplainedhowaSierraPeaksSec;onwouldbenefitthechapter.ChapterChairBobBearfollowedwithastrongendorsement.TheExecu;veCommiTeepromisedtoconsidertheissueandcomeforwardwithadecisioninthenearfuture.

ThedecisioncameinOctober1955.TheSierraPeaksSec;onwasformallyauthorized.Thelongstrugglefinallywaswon!

P A S S A G E S

August 7 or 8, 1953: Frank Sanborn appears second from left at Farewell Gap on a scheduled outing to Sawtooth (N) and Vandever above Mineral King. Other SPS founding members-to-be shown are Frank Bressel (far left), John Robinson (third from right), and Bob Sheller (far right). The trip was scheduled by a Sierra Club entity listed as "High Sierra" (Source: Frank Bressel Collection).

28 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

P A S S A G E S

TocelebratethenewSPS,manyoftheeighteen—whonowbecamechartermembers—organizedaclimbofSawtoothandNeedham.Althoughnotofficiallyscheduled,thiswasthefirstSierraclimbbythenewlyrecognizedSPS.Thankfully,Iwasonthatclimb.

ThefledglingSPSquicklyorganizeditself.Officerswereselected:FrankSanborn(chair),BobSheller(vicechair),PatMeixner(secretary),LeoScor(treasurer),andFrankBressel(alternateofficer).MilesBrubacherwaschosentodrawupalistofqualifyingandemblempeaks,aprocessthatcon;nuestothisday.

Afullscheduleofac;vi;eswasdrawnup,star;ngintheAngelesChapterScheduleforMay-August1956.ThefirstofficiallyscheduledtripwasaclimbofDeerMtn.ontheKernPlateauledbyFrankSanbornandJohnRobinson.ThedateswereMay5-6,1956,andthereweretenpar;cipants.WebackpackedoverHaiweePasstotheSouthForkoftheKernRiver,onlytodiscovertherivertobearagingtorrent.Nextmorning,wefollowedtheeastbankoftherivernorthwardandfoundawobblylogtocross.Theshakinglogwascarefullycrossed,andwemadetheforestedsummitwithoutanyfurtherdifficulty.

Frank'shopeforafullsummerofclimbingSierraPeakswaspar;allyfrustratedwhenearlyinthesummerof1956heacceptedajobwiththeAutomobileClubofSouthern

California.Beingageographymajor,hefelthecouldnotturndownthejob,especiallysinceitgavehimreadyaccesstothemapsonfileorinprepara;on.However,thejobrequiredhimtoworkonSaturdays—daysonwhichmostSPStripswerebeginning.(HewasabletojoinseveralSPSweekendersbydrivingupaWerSaturday'sworkday.)Frank's

biggestregretwasthathehadtogiveuphisscheduledMt.WilliamsonclimbintheSierraonLaborDayweekend1956.

Overthenextseveralyears,Frankpar;cipatedwhenhecould.HeservedasSPSalternateofficerin1957andvicechairin1960and1964.HeearnedhisDPSembleminMay1957.Andhecompetedhismaster'sdegreeatCalStateLosAngelesinJune1960.

InAugust1960,Frankandhiswife,CharloTe,whomhemarriedinthesummerof1957,movednorthtoOroville,wherehebecamearegularinMotherLodeChapterac;vi;es.HechairedtheBuTe-ShastaGroup,acomponentoftheMotherLodeChapter,forseveralmonthsinearly1963.

InJune1963,FrankmovedbacktoSouthernCaliforniaandquicklyre-established;eswithfellowclimbers.Forthelast;me,Frankroundedintotopshapeandpar;cipatedinsomerigorousclimbs.OnLaborDayweekend1963,hejoinedAndySmatkoandJohnRobinson'sDPStriptoArcDomeinCentralNevada(consideredstrenuousonlybecauseofthelongdrive).Nextday,hejoinedJohninasuccessfulascentofMt.Abbot.ThiswasFrank'stenthSPSemblempeak.Johnsurprisedhimbypresen;ngFrankhisemblemonthesummit.

Frank,con;nuingtobeintopshape,ledthesteep,strenuousclimbofCartagoandTimoseainNovemberof

August 23, 1955: Frank Sanborn (far left) and three other SPS founding members-to-be appear in this photo taken along the John Muir Trail. Right of Frank: Ted Maier, Roger Gaefcke, Chuck Miller, Dick Woodward; then, tentatively, Jim McGoldrick. According to a report by Pat Meixner in a 1955 issue of Southern Sierran, others on the trip were Meixner, who also was to become an SPS founding member, Lucy Woodward, and Bob Smeltzer. Mt. Sill was climbed during this extended backpack (Lucy Woodward Collection, Angeles Chapter Digital Archives).

29SierraEcho▴April-June2018

P A S S A G E S1963.Then,cameFrank'smostcontroversialtrip:Mt.GoddardfromtheeastviaLamarckColovertheLaborDayweekend,September5-7,1964.Itwasadver;sedintheAngelesChapterScheduleasbeing"EXTREMELY

STRENUOUS...notforbeginners."Frankwaslistedasleaderwithnooneshownasassistantleader.Despitethewarning,thirty-twopersonsshowedup,manyofthembeginners.Bytheendofthefirstday,thegroupwashopelesslyspreadout.(Detailsoftheresul;ngcontroversyappearedintheJuly-August-September-October1964issueofTheSierraEcho.)Onthesecondday,Goddardwasclimbedbytwentyofthetripmembers,halfofthemmuchslowerthantheleadgroup.Fortunately,allthirty-twogotbacktothecarsonthefinalday.ThereaWer,theSPS,andlatertheAngelesChapterasawhole,requireddual(ormore)leadersonallovernighttrips.

Frankwasinvolved,bothasleaderorassistantleader,onseveralmorescheduledtripsin1964and1965—includingWonoga/MuahinOctober1964andTehipiteDomeinMay1965—butaWerWonoga/MuahandTehipiteDomehenolongerwasthehikerheoncewas.Ageandphysicaldifficul;esbegantoplaguehim.

Asthelate1960sandthe'70spassedintothe'80s,hebeganexperiencingmoreseriousmedicaldifficul;esthatpreventedanymorelonghikes.Withhissecondwife,Gloria,FrankmovedtoKent,Washington,andshortlythereaWerintoSeaTletobeclosertotheVeteransAdministra;onmedicalfacili;es.There,hewasdiagnosedwithanearlystageofParkinson'sDiseaseandotherailments.Hequalifiedforfull

servicesbecauseofhisWWIIArmycombatexperience.ButhisvariousailmentsnevercausedhimtoforgethisloveoftheSierraNevadaandhisprideinworkingeffec;velytoformtheSPS.

October 25, 1964: Frank Sanborn on a short break en route to Muah Mtn., a scheduled SPS climb Frank and Ron Jones led. This was a day climb not from the unfinished road leading up to Horseshoe Mdw. but from a campground along Cottonwood Creek just above Owens Valley. The climb was all cross country and billed as "STRENUOUS, NOT FOR BEGINNERS" in the Angeles Chapter Schedule with a roundtrip distance of 12 miles. Frank authored the trip report for the November-December 1964 issue of The Sierra Echo. "Promptly at 6 a.m.," he reported, "sixteen hardy climbers assaulted the great trailless ridge which leads directly from camp 4,800 feet in about six miles to the Sierra crest to the south, between Diaz and Wormhole Canyons. By 9:30 a.m., we were on the Sierra crest escarpment and by 10:30 a.m. atop Muah . . . . Although strenuous, the 5,800-foot climb was easier than anticipated . . . . We were back at camp by 2 p.m." (Photo by Jerry Keating).

September 2, 1963: John Robinson completes awarding the SPS emblem pin to Frank Sanborn during an independent climb of Mt. Abbot. This climb was done by only the two but on the way home after they, Andy Smatko, Graham Stephenson, Ellen Siegal, and three others climbed Arc Dome in Nevada. John's account of the Abbot climb appeared in the November-December issue of The Sierra Echo. "Frank hardly had time to catch his breath on the summit before he was presented with his emblem—given to him by the Section in appreciation for his valued contributions to the SPS," read the account. "The badge was bought by the Section last year after Frank climbed his ninth emblem peak and was to have been presented on the scheduled Abbot climb. But a last-minute visit by Frank's parents prevented him from making the trip. So it was with justice that Frank received the emblem on the peak that it was intended he receive it—one year later" (Photo by John Robinson using a delayed-timer).

ManythankstoJerryKea2ng,whocollectedthesephotosandprovideddetailedcap2oninforma2on.—Theeditors

30 SierraEcho▴April-June2018

P A S S A G E S

Fred JohnsonAugust 2, 1927–November 1, 2017

Remembering Fred Johnson

Thefirst;meImetFredJohnsonwasonatriptoLongRidge,thehighpointofSanMateoCounty,inMay2003,whichhearrangedsincethespotwasonprivateproperty.FredhadbeentherebeforeandwasoneoftheearlycompletersofalltheCaliforniacoun;esin1995.

GailHannaandIvisitedwithFredonseveraltripstoSanFranciscoandtheBayareaovertheyears.Fredwasalwaysfriendly,courteous,andwillingtomeetus.Becausehehadsloweddownsomeinhislateryears,insteadofscalingbiggerpeakshewasvisi;ngnumerousfirelookoutsincentralandnorthernCalifornia.Isetupawebpageonfirelookouts,andFredsentmedozensofphotoshehadtaken,whichgreatlyhelpedmeaddtothepage.

LaterFredsentmeaCDwith385photosofpeaksalloverthewest,whichincludedsomefineviewsofSierrapeaks.IlastmethimataluncheoninBerkeleyinAugust2017.WithAndrewKirmse,DavidSanger,andFredwehadalivelydiscussionofpeaksandmountain-relatedtopics.LaterinOctoberItoldFredIhadjustdoneMt.Kaweah,andhesaidthatwastheveryfirstpeakhedidinJuly1942.FredhasatripreportonPeakbagger.comonthistrip:hTp://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ascent.aspx?aid=58321

FredloggedallhisascentsonPeakbaggerandwrotemanytripreports.Hehadquiteanimpressivelistofascentswhichyoucanseeonhishomepage:hTp://www.peakbagger.com/climber/climber.aspx?cid=1776

By Richard Carey

Above: Fred Johnson en route to Wonoga Peak, SPS Oldtimers trip, September 9, 2006 (Photo by Jerry Keating).

Long-;meSPSmemberFredJohnsondiedNovember1,2017,attheageofninety.Hewasemblemholder#123,September1,1967.JerryKea;ngwasabletoprovidesomeinforma;ononFred,whosefirstSierraClubtripwasonMarch29,1942,whenhewasfourteen.FredjoinedtheDPSin1945,earning“hisemblemsin1946,1967,and1987asthelistgrew.”HewasamemberoftheSPSin1959,possiblyearlier,andmaintainedhismembershipun;lhedied.Healsopar;cipatedintheOld-TimersseriesofhikesledbyJerry,evenarrivingadayearlyforthe2007ou;ngtotheNeedlesetal.inGiantSequoiaNa;onalMonumenttoclimbSlateMountainwithDaveJenkins,morethantenmilesround-tripwithabout2300’gain.––Theeditors

Seehisobituaryhere:hTp://www.legacy.com/obituaries/sfgate/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory&pid=187306859

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Left: Fred Johnson’s description of his first Sierra Club outing, which he participated in when he was fourteen. Note that he was endorsed for membership on his first outing (in those days, one needed to be sponsored by club members to join the Sierra Club). Below: Summit of Waucoba Mtn., on a DPS trip led by Niles Werner and Chester Versteeg, June 7, 1942. Fred Johnson, second from left,was still 14. Also in the photo, L to R: Parker Severson, Fred Johnson, Martin Britt, Harry Paley, Rhoda Goertz, Freda Walbrecht, Chester Versteeg, Jim Tow, and Morris Vehon. This is the earliest known photo of a DPS outing (Photo by Niles Werner, Niles Werner Collection, Angeles Chapter Archives).

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Oneeveningmanyyearsago,Ireceivedatelephonecallfromayoungboy.HewantedaridetotheSPSclimbscheduledforthenextweekend.Iwasimmediatelyconcernedabouthisyouthandabilitytopar;cipate.Wouldhebeanuisance?Wouldhebefumblingwithhisequipmentallweekend?Wouldhebelaggingfarbehindthegroup?WouldIbecomeresponsibleforhissafety?Andtherewastheprac;calmaTerofdrivingthroughFridayeveningtrafficfrommyworkplacenearLAXtohishomeinPasadena.AtthispointIwasmuchmorefocusedontheproblemshemightcreate,ratherthantryingtohelpayoungboyexperiencethemountains.Aboutthis;me,hedescribedhowhecouldrideabustoanairportparkinglotnearmyworkplace,elimina;ngmycomplaintaboutthetraffic.Somehow,healsodealtwithmyotherconcerns,atleasttotheextentthatIranoutofexcuses.(Hisdetermina;onandfacilitywithwordswerealreadypresent.)So,reluctantly,Iagreedtopickhimupattheairportparkinglot.

ThatFridayeveningaWerworkIdrovetotheagreed-uponmee;ngplace.There,standingatthecurb,wasathinyoungboynotmuchtallerthanhisbackpack.Ididnotunderstandhisnamewhenhetoldmeduringhistelephonecall,soIaskedhimagain.“RJ,”hereplied.Expec;ngsomethingmorecommonlikeBob,Dave,orJohn,Iwassure

thatIs;llmisunderstoodhim.AWerall,howmanyboysuseini;alsinsteadofaname?SoIaskedhimagain.“RJ,”herepeatedempha;cally!Ididn’taskagain.Thusbeganmyreluctantrela;onshipwithayoungboywhowouldquicklybecomenotonlyanaccomplishedclimber,butalsoanotedauthorandfriend.

IcannolongeraccuratelyrememberthatfirsttripwithR.J.Butitprobablywasthe;meIrememberhimeagertopressahead,butfrustratedbythegroup’ssteady,grindingpaceuptheBubbsCreekTrail.Later,highuptheSphinxCreekTrailduringarainyreststop,theleaderterminatedthetripbecauseofdeteriora;ngweather.Consequently,Ihavenorecordofapeakascenttopinpointthedateofthattrip.OnatripthatIbelieveoccurredsome;melater,R.J.andImadeasnowclimbofBasinMountainledbypastchairHoraceOry.MyrecordsshowthatwasinJuneof1971;R.J.wasonly14yearsold.YearslaterhewouldthankmefortakinghimonhisfirstSPStrip.

IclimbedwithR.J.onlyoccasionallyaWerthose

Remembrances of RJ Secor, Part 2

By Ron Eckelmann

Remembering a Young Boy

Above: RJ Secor at his second SPS list finish on Smith Mtn., October 18, 1997 (Photo by Ron Eckelmann).

SierraEcho▴April-June2018 33

P A S S A G E Searlytrips.Hewastooeager,energe;c,andtalentedtobeslowedupbyalaid-backrecrea;onalclimberoldenoughtobehisfather.Butin1977heproposedaclimbingtriptothePacificNorthwest,tobeprecededbyaclimbofMt.Humphreys(totestme?).R.J.led;Ifollowed.Apparently,hefoundmeacceptable,becausewefirmedupthetripshortlythereaWer.

Star;nginlateAugust,wedrovehisoldpaneltruckuptoSeaTle,wherehewouldcon;nuehiseduca;onattheUniversityofPugetSound.HeexpressedinterestinaforeignservicecareerwiththeStateDepartment,apparentlyalreadyeyeingthegreatmountainrangesoftheworld.WeclimbedBaker,St.Helens(threeyearsbeforeiterupted),andHood.WewereturnedbackbybadweatheronShuksan,Rainier,andAdams.(R.J.tookadvantageofagoodweatherwindowlaterinSeptembertosummitRainier.)AlthoughIwasmucholderandhadsomepriorexperienceintheNorthwest,thiswasdefinitelyR.J.’strip.Hehadplannedit.Hehadpersuadedmetopar;cipate.Hehadmodifiedthecarburetorofhistrucktoimprovegasmileage.HeplacatedanangryOregonfarmerwhoobjectedtouscampingonhisproperty.HiscopiousnotesinthemarginsofFredBecky’sguidetotheCascadeskeptus

Photos below, clockwise: RJ Secor on the summit of Mt. Baker, August 22, 1977; with his mother and father at his second SPS list finish on Smith Mtn., October 18, 1997; on Smith Mtn. for his first list finish, October 5, 1986 (Photos by Ron Eckelmann).

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onroute.HemodifiedhisplansasnecessarytocopewiththeintermiTentlypoorweather.Andheledalloftheclimbs.(Ourpeaksuccessrateof50percentisquitetypicalforthisareaknownforbadweather.)AfewdaysbeforeIflewbacktoLosAngeles,R.J.turnedtwenty-one.Healreadywasacompetentleader.

From;meto;meIwouldaccidentallymeetR.J.andhisfatheratarestaurant.HisfatherownedasailboatanchoredatMarinadelRey,appropriatelynamedTheSecor.AWerahardday’sworkmaintainingtheboat,theywouldenjoyaheartydinneratanearbysmorgasbord.Onatleastoneoccasionverylateatnightwhilereturningfromaclimb,IdroppedoffR.J.atthemarina.Hetoldmetowaitwhilehecau;ouslyapproachedtheboatandcalledouttohisfathersleepinginside.Ittookawhile,but

hisfathereventuallyemerged,happytoseehissonregardlessofthehour.R.J.invitedmetoeachofhistwoSPSlistfinishes:thefirstonOctober5th,1986,whenhewasjustthirty;thesecondonOctober18th,1997,bothonSmithMtn.Hisproudfatherwasonboth.Hismothersummitedonatleastone,perhapsboth.Hewasespeciallyclosetohisparentsandlivedwiththeminthefamilyhomeun;ltheypassed.AWerhisaccident,IvisitedR.J.twicewhilehewasinthehospital.Thefirst;mewaswithagroupofSPSers.Thesecond;meIwasalone.Italkedtohimaboutthoseearlytrips,hopingtos;mulateabrains;llinacoma.I

leWunabletodetectanyresponse.Hedidrecoverofcourse.Butnotcompletely.He

wouldnotbeabletocompletetheSPSlistforthethird;me.IlastspoketohimattheSPSbanquetwherehereceivedtheFrancisFarquharMountaineeringAwardwhilehismotherlookedonproudly.

Yes,Is;llrememberthattelephonecallfromsolongago.ThanksR.J.!I’msuregladyoupersuadedmetomeetyouattheairportparkinglot!

JoinusonahiketoHennigerFlatsinPasadenaasacelebra;onofourfriendR.J.Secor’slife.ThismoderatelocalclimbfromthemouthofEatonCanyonuptheMt.WilsonTollRoadwasR.J.’sfavoritelocalcondi;oninghike.HennigerFlatshaspicnictables,restrooms,andanaturecenter.Weplantohaveourcelebra;onwhenwegettotheFlats,sobringyourR.J.stories,memories,andfoodanddrinktoshare.Expectaday'stotalofabout5.35milesroundtripwith1,300’ofgain.We’llleavefromthePinecresttrailheadat8:00am.Parkingis

limited,soplantocarpoolifyoucan.SomemaywanttoparkattheEatonCanyonNatureCenterandcarpoolfromthere.Kidsanddogsarewelcome.

Fromthe210FreewayinPasadena,exitonLakeAvenue.Turnnorthandcon;nuetoAltadenaDrive.Makearight,con;nueabouttenblocks,andlookcloselytoyourleW.TurnleWonPinecrestDriveandwindafewblocksthrougharesiden;alareatothetrailhead.YoucanalsocomeupAltadenaDrivefromthe210FreewaypasttheEatonCanyonNatureCenterandtakearightonCrescentDriveandthenanotherrightonPinecrestDrive.Thetrailheadisfoundin2200blockofPinecrest.You'llspotalockedgatewherethetrailstarts.

EmailcontactinfotoLdrs:DanRichter(dan@danrichter.com),AsherWaxmanNote,thisisaprivatehike,notaSierraClubsponsoredou;ng.

R.J.SecorMemorialHikeSunday April 15th

Steve Porcella published an obituary of RJ in The American Alpine Journal: http://bit.ly/Secor-AAJ or the full URL http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214503. This article is longer than the version which appeared in the last issue of the Echo.

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RJandIweretwoyearsapartinage––hewasbornin1956,andIwasbornin1954.Becauseofthisandsinceweweretheyoungestcousins,weusuallyhungouttogetheratfamilygatherings.

Whenwewereveryyoung,wemetforfamilypicnicsataparkinPasadena.RJandIusedtorolllengthwisedownagrassyslope,overandoveragain,enjoyingthefeelingofbeingaliTlebitdizzyaWereachdescent.Therewere;nywhiteflowersintheparkgrowinginthegrass.Theylookedlikeminiaturedaisies,butRJtoldmethatalthoughtheylookedlikedaisies,theywereactuallysomeotherkindofflowerandthattheywereweeds.Irememberwondering,“Howdoesheknowthat???”ButIknewhimanddidn’tdoubtwhathewassayingbecausehewouldn’thavesaidsowithoutknowing.Healwaysdidhisresearch.

WhenwesaweachothereachThanksgiving,usuallyatmyparent’shomeinCostaMesa,heandIwouldhangoutandplayedourownversionofadventuregames.RJhadagoodimagina;on,andwebothreally“gotinto”ourrolesinthegames,whichfelt,inretrospect,likeIndianaJonessearchingforsomethingancientandvaluable.Mybedroom,withthelightsdimmed,becameacave,andatoyAladdin’sLampwasourmagicguidethathelpedusfindtheprecioustreasure.AsIrecall,RJwouldcomeupwithelaborateplotsandrulesandwasinsistentthattherulesbefollowed.Hewasn’trudeaboutit,butverymaTeroffact,andIneverobjectedtothemanyrules,eventhoughIhadtoberemindedofthem.

AtRJ’shousehisbedroomhadadoorthatledtoahalf-basementthat,asachild,Ifoundtobeverycoolandmysterious.Ithadsteepstepsandfeltlikesomekindofsecretscien;st’slair.Init,hekepthisnotebooksandscrapbooks,inwhichhekeptme;culousrecords.EventhenIfelthonoredthathewouldallowmeintohisprivateuniverseandtakethe;metoexplainthatuniversetome.

RJ,evenasaveryyoungboy,spokewiththesamespeechpaTernsheretainedasanadult.Weusedtosayhehadalotof“nervousenergy.”Hewouldbesilentforawhile,alwaysthinking,andthenspeakquicklywithfrequentburstsofverbiage,andtheburstswereusually

packedwithmeaning.Tounderstandhimrequiredtaking;meandpayingcloseaTen;on.RJmeasuredandchoseeachwordcarefullyandpreciselywhetherhewasspeakingorwri;ng.Accuracywasabigdealtohimforhisen;relife.Iwastherecipientofanumberofhiscorrec;ons,deliverednotunkindly,butplainly,asifitjustwouldn’tberighttoletsomethingslideifitwasn’taccurate.Ihavesomeofthattraitmyself,whichisprobablyonereasonwhyweenjoyedeachother’scompany,butRJ’saTen;ontodetailwasexcep;onal.

Healsolikedpunsandwordgamesandwasaworthyadversaryinanycontestofwit.

Asasmallchildandintoadulthood,hewasabitlikeaprofessor,somethinglikeSheldononTheBigBangTheory,onlymuchmoreawareandconcernedaboutotherpeople’sfeelingsthanSheldon.HewouldoWeninstructmeonsomenewsubjecthe’dlearnedabout,andIfoundhis“lectures”fascina;ng.Inthe1960sorsowhenhewasasmallboy,heusedtowatchaTVShowcalledTheFunnyCompany,andhedescribedallthecharactersandmanyepisodestome.AlthoughIneverwatchedit,IfeelasifIdidbecausehisdescrip;onsweresodetailed.Heretainedthattrait.

Hewasbornintoafamilyofstrong-willedandopinionatedpeople.Hismom,Leta,cameacrossini;allytopeoplewhowerejustmee;ngherassweetandaccommoda;ng,butbeneaththatexteriorwasafocusedandgoal-orientedwomanwhoalwaysknewwhatshewanted.SheworkedinrealestateformanyyearsaswellasworkingformanyyearsfortheCityofPasadena.RJ’sfather,Jack,seemedtometobeaquick-wiTed,oWensarcas;c,andwisecrackingcharacter.Beforehegrewabeardinhislateryears,helookedlikeandremindedmeofDonRickles,andthepersonalput-downs,deliveredwithasmirk,weresomeofJack’strademarkcomments,too.Myrecollec;onsofJack’svisitstoourhomeincludedhimsirngdownatourpianoandplayingboogie-woogie,whilelookingoverhisshoulderoccasionally,withasillygrin,hisever-presentpipebetweenhisteeth.JackworkedattheL.A.CountyAssessor’sofficeformanyyearsandalso,alongwithLeta,wasinvolvedinrealestateandotherinvestments.

RJinheritedaveryquickwit,awaywithwords,andsarcasmfromhisfatheranddetermina;on,goalserng,

Remembering My Cousin, RJ SecorBy Joan Colgrove

ManythankstoBillOliverforworkingwithJoanColgrovetosupplytheEchowiththisremembrance.

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andfrugalityfromhismother.Frugalityisatraitthatmanypeopleonhismother’ssideofthefamilyshared.Also,Leta,Jack,andRJeachhadaverygoodheadforbusiness.

WhenIlearnedthatoWenRJ’shikingandclimbingequipmentwasancientandusuallypurchasedatgaragesales,etc.,IlaughedandthoughtthatourGrandmotherEmma(Leta’smother,whodiedin1989,attheageofninety-five)wouldhavebeenproudbecauseshecouldgetmoreoutofadollarthananypersonI’veeverknown.

Iamtheyoungestofthreekids,andwhenwespokeofRJ,weoWenremarkedonthefactthathewasanonlychild.Atthe;me,itseemedtobeasadthingbecausemysiblingsandIhadahard;meimaginingahomewithoutabrotherorsistertoplaywithorfightwith.Butuponreflec;onIthinkthatRJ’scomfortwithbeingalonedevelopedbecauseasachildhespentalotof;mealoneandheverymuchenjoyedhisowncompany.Hedidn’thavetocompeteforhisparent’sloveandaTen;on,whichIbelievegavehimacertainsecurity.

Ihavebeenaskedsomeques2onsaboutRJandwilldomybesttoanswerthem:

Educa1on:HehadanAAfromPasadenaCityCollege(1976),aBachelorsDegreefromtheUniversityofPugetSound(1978),andaMastersinInterna2onalRela2onsfromClaremontGraduateUniversity(1984).

Othersportsbesideshiking/climbing:hewasintheskipatrolwhileatPugetSound.Inaddi2ontoskiinghelovedsailing.HisdadhadasailboatformanyyearsatMarinaDelRey,andsailingwasafamilyac2vity.Interes2ngly,theirboatwasdockedclosetoaboatthatDanBlocker,theactorfromBonanza,keptthere.

BoyScouts:Idon'tknowifRJwasinBoyScoutsbutsuspecthewasbecauseaderhisfather'sdeath,theirsailboat,whichIthinkwasanapproximatelythirty-footBristol,wasdonatedtotheBoyScouts.RJandIwereonlyintouchsporadicallyonceweweregrownups,andIdon'trecallhimmen2oningBoyScouts,butthereweremanythingswedidn'ttalkabout.

Spiritualbeliefs:RJwasraisedLutheranandwasconfirmedintheLutheranchurchadercomple2ngcatechismclassesinseventhandeighthgrades,asIwas,andaswaseveryoneonhismother'ssideofthefamily.FromwhatIamaware,heremainedaChris2an,butwedidn'tdiscussthatinanydepthasadults.Hedidsaysome

thingsaderourGrandmother'sfuneralin early1989thatseemedasifhebelievedshewaswithJesus,butit'salsopossiblehesaidthatasacomforttohismotherandotherrela2ves.Ofcourse,nooneknowsforsurewhat'sinanotherperson'sheart.RJmen2onedJesuswhenIvisitedhiminearly2017,soIthinkandhopethathisChris2anbeliefsstayedwithhim.Thatisacomforttome.

HismotherstayedconnectedtoaLutheranchurchneartheirhome,butIdon'tknowhowodensheand/orRJmayhaveahendedthere.

WasRJeverinseminary:Iaskedmymother,becauseRJ’smotherLeta(myMom’ssister)wouldhavemorethanlikelymen2onedthistoher,hadithappened,andmymomsaidshewasneverawareofanythinghavingtodowithRJahendingseminary.MythoughtsonthisarethatIcanimagineRJwan2ngtoimmersehimselfdeeplyinanysubjectthatstronglycapturedhisinterest.Hewasalifelongstudent.However,Ican’timaginehimwan2ngtobeapastor.Hewouldhaverealizedthatpastorsneedtobeaccessibleandavailabletoeveryoneintheirflock,andRJwasmoreselec2vethanthat.IcaneasilypicturehimbeingsomethingsimilartoaTrappistMonkbecauseofthesolitudeandcontempla2venatureoftheirexistence.Howhewouldhavegohenpastthehistorican2pathybetweentheLutheranChurchandtheCatholicChurchissomethinghewouldhavehadtofigure

out.Buttherewasnoseminarytomyknowledge.Butit’ss2llpossiblethatheconsidereditatsomepoint;Isimplydon’tknow.Itwouldn’tbetoofarfetchedtothinkthathemighthavemen2onedittosomeoneasajoke,andbecausehiswitcouldbeverydry,itcouldbehardtotellwhenhewaskiddingandwhenhewasn’t.

Whatwerehisparents’agesandwhendidtheypass:Jackdiedin2008attheageofeighty-two,andLetadiedin2016attheageofeighty-nine.RJdiedoneyearand3weeksaderhismother.Iknowhemissedbothparents.Asfaraslongevity,onhismother’ssidetherearemanylong-livedpeople.RJ’sandmygreatgrandmother,MinnieKruse,fromIowa,livedtobe101.Herdaughter,ourgrandmotherEmmawhowasmen2onedearlier,wasalmostninety-six.

TheMt.BaldyAccident:TheaccidenthappenedinApril2005.Thereisinforma2onthatcanbeGoogled;whensearching“RJSecorAccident,”onefindsadescrip2onoftheout-of-controlglissadethatresultedinhisseriousheadandotherinjuries.Overmonthsofhospitaliza2onandrehabilita2on,heregainedmuchofhisfunc2oningandwasabletobere-issuedhisdriverslicenseanddomostnormalday-to-dayac2vi2es.Tome,hewasneverthesamepersonaderwards,andhestoppedcommunica2ngviaemail(withme,anyway)aderhisaccident.Hisconversa2onswereshorterandheoden

RJ’scousinJoanColgrovealsopreparedanswerstoanumberofques;onsshewasbeingaskedaboutRJaWerhisdeath.Wethoughtyoumightfindthemofinterest.––Theeditors

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RJvaluedfriendships,especiallywithpeoplewhosharedthesamesensibilityaboutnature.Butitcouldalsobesaidthathecouldtakeorleavepeople.Heenjoyedsharingideasand;mebutalsosavoredpeaceandsolitude.IfRJwasintriguing,andIthinkhewas,itwas,inpart,becausehewasn’tneedy.Hisindependenceandevenaloofqualitycoulddrawpeoplein.

FromwhatIknowofRJ,hedidn’ttalkmuchaboutcaringforotherpeople.Insteadheshoweditbysmallandlargergestures.Hewantedhislifetohavemeaning,andhewantedtohelptheworldbycontribu;ngwithhisbooksandby

didn’tini2ateanydiscussionsbutwouldrespond/replyincontextwhenspokento.Ithinkthathisverbalandwri2ngabili2es werediminishedfromtheaccidentaswell.

Otherheadinjury:InApril2016,RJfellinhisbackyardandsustainedanotherheadinjury.Thiswasaserioussetbackandaderthissecondfallhewasnolongerabletocareforhimself.Hewasini2allyhospitalizedforseveralweeksandthenmovedtoacarefacilityinPasadena(moreaboutthatintheparagraphbelow).Aderthissecondfall,itwass2llpossibletohaveanintelligentconversa2onwithhimaboutanumberofsubjectsandheretainedmuchofhismemoryforthingshe’dlearnedinthepastandcouldbecountedontocomeupwithinteres2ngandrelevantfacts.However,hisshort-termmemorywasverypoor,andheneededsupportformanydailyfunc2ons.Physicallyhewasnotsteadyonhisfeetandneededhelpgeongupanddown.Hecouldwalkforshortdistanceswithoutawalkerbutanythinglongerwouldeither2rehimoutorhewouldneedsupportfromaperson,awalker,orawheelchair.HehadrecentlycompletedsomephysicaltherapyandwasintheprocessofsigningupfortwiceweeklyexercisesessionsforpeoplewithsimilarchallengesatHun2ngtonHospitalinPasadenaatthe2meofhisdeath.

MyAuntLetahadbeendiagnosedwithcancerpriortothe2methatRJfellinApril2016.RJwasadmihedtothehospitalandthenLetaherselfwasalsohospitalizedinordertoreceivetreatmentforhercancer.ShewasthenmovedtoanapartmentinacarefacilityinPasadena.WhenRJwasreleasedfromthehospital,hejoinedLetainthecarefacilityapartment.ThiswasinJuly2016.In

August,aderoneofherradia2ontreatments,Letafellandbrokeherhipandwasonceagainhospitalized.ShereturnedtothecarefacilitywithRJafewweekslater.OnFriday,October7,2016,LetacollapsedanddiedwhileinthefacilitywithRJ.

Conservatorship:AderLetawasgone,IworkedwithahorneyswhohadalreadybeenselectedbyLetatodosomelegalworkforherand,withRJ’sapproval,wasnamedconservatorforhimbecausehewasunabletomanagehisday-to-daycareandaffairs.RJmadeitveryclearthathewantedtoreturntoliveatthePasadenahomehehadgrownupin.SoIcoordinatedwithseveralpeopletogetthehousereadyforhisreturn.Theworkincludedbuildingsafetyramps,installinggrabbars,andconsolida2ngandpurgingsomeofthestuffthataccumulatesaderafamilyoccupiesahomeformorethanfidyyears.RJwasabletomovehomeonMonday,March13,2017.Hewasveryhappytobehome.WheneverIspokewithhimandaskedhimhowhewas,hewouldsay,“Fine”.AndI’daskhimifheneededanything,andhe’dsay,“No,”althoughone2mehemen2onedthathe’dlikesomeCheetos.Thecaregivergothimsome.

RJ’sDeath:OnthemorningofOctober26,2017,RJcollapsedathishome.Hewasbeingcaredforbyround-the-clockcaretakers.Thecaretakercalled911andhelparrivedwithinafewminutes.TheEMT’swerenotabletoestablishorsustainapulse,andRJwastransportedtonearbyHun2ngtonHospital.TheERstaffatthehospitalworkedfor55minutestotrytoestablishapulse,butwereunabletodoso.ThemedicalexaminerconcludedthatRJdiedbecauseofthelong-termeffectsoftrauma2cbraininjuries.Hehadseenhis

primarycaredoctoraswellasaneurologistwithinthreeweekspriortohisdeath,andwhenhewasseen,neitherdoctornotedthattherewasanythingthatwouldcausethemtobelievehewasinanyimminentdanger.

SomeofRJ’sorgansand2ssueweredonated,includingcorneas,skinandthepericardium,whichisfrequentlyusedforpeoplewhohaveheartsurgery.HeandIneverspokeaboutsuchdona2ons,butIliketothinkthathewouldbepleasedabouthelpingpeopleinsuchaway.

Estate,etc.:IamtheadministratorforLeta’sandforRJ’sestates.Thelegalaspectsareongoing.BecauseLeta,Jack,andRJweresoprivateabouttheirbusinessandoutofrespectfortheirpreferences,Iwillnotshareanypar2culars.However,someusefulandcommon-sensetakeawaysfromtheirapproachtoinves2ngare(1)livewellbeneathyourmeans;(2)investconsistentlyandregularlyinthingswithlas2ngvaluesuchasrealestateandbusinessesthathaveasoundhistorywithagoodprojec2onforfuturevalue;(3)onceyouhavesehledonaninvestmentapproach,stayforthelong-haul,anddon’tbeswayedbytemporarymarketfluctua2ons.Oneaddedcommentisthateveryoneshouldmakeclearinwri2nghowheorshewantstheirestatehandled,andsuchwriheninstruc2onsshouldbeupdatedwhenevertherearelifechanges.

WhendidImovetoColorado:MyhusbandandIboughtahomeinFlorissant,Colorado,inMay2008.Wespent2mehereeachyearaderwardsandmovedfromCaliforniatoColoradofull2meinOctober2013.Ire2redinMay2014(Iworkedremotelybyphoneandcomputerforafewmonths),andmyhusbandhadalreadybeenre2redsince2000.

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helpingfellowsojournersonhikesandclimbswhetherhewasclimbingwiththem,orhelpingthembytheinforma;oninhisverydetailedbooks/guides.

Thatbeingsaid,asachildandasanadult,hedidn’thavealotofpa;enceforpeoplewhodidn’trespectknowledgeandwhodidn’ttakethe;metounderstandtheworldandnature.Hecouldbedismissiveandimpa;entifherealizedthatsomeonedidn’t“dotheirhomework”anddidn’tsharehisvalues.HewouldoWendecidethatsuchpeoplesimplyweren’tworthhis;me.

Hewasinterestedinallkindsofthings.Thebooksinhishousewereonawiderangeofsubjectsfromsciencetophilosophytohistory,to,ofcourse,mountainsandclimbing/hiking.Bothofhisparentswereavidreadersandonhismother’ssideofthefamily,mostofthepeoplearebookloversaswell.

WhenIlookedaroundRJ’shomeinPasadenanotlongago,doingasecuritycheck,IlaughedwhenIwentinhisbedroomandonthewallinthewalk-inclosetwasaposterofHumphreyBogartwearingatrenchcoatandfedora,withtheclassicBogartsquint.ItwasanothersurprisetolearnthatRJwasaBogartfan.

AlthoughaTen;ontodetailwasoneofRJ’sstrengths,hewasnotapeTyperson,neitherasachildnorasanadult.The;mehespentongiantpeaksseemedtoputthingsinperspec;veforhim,andideasandidealsandprincipleswereimportanttohim.Althoughhewascarefulwithmoney(anunderstatement!),hewasgenerouswithhis;meandenergywhenhebelievedthepersonorthecausewasworthy.

MyhomeinColoradoisataneleva;onof8400’andbecauseofthemountains,IfindmyselfthinkingofRJoWen.Also,wheneverIseeravens,Ithinkofhim.Hetoldmethathewasfascinatedbyravens,whichareso

resourcefulandubiquitous,andheincludedthesilhoueTeofaravenonhisbusinesscardwhichsaidsimply“RJSecor––Author,”andwhichlistedhisbooksby;tle.RavensarealotlikeRJ:smart,resourceful,clever,mul;-talented,occasionallycranky,andeco-friendlybecausetheycleanupmessesleWbypeopleandotheranimals.Ravensenjoythecompanyofotherravensbutalsospend;mealone,oWeninhighplaces,surveyingtheterritoryandmakingmentalnotesofusefuldetails.

Augie Medina sent this photo taken on June 23, 2003, by a passerby at Kearsarge Pass at the end of a trip led by Nile Sorenson and Tom McDonnell. The group had travelled from Onion Valley over University Pass to Center Basin, where they climbed Center Peak and Mt. Bradley. RJ Secor is at far left. Continuing clockwise: Paul Morash, Augie Medina, Joanne Andrew, Ron Campbell, Nile Sorenson, and Tom McDonnell.

My Cousin RJ, continued:

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P A S S A G E S

IwasprivilegedtoaTendthememorialandlifecelebra;onforRoyalRobbins,March12,inModesto,hishometown.IconnectedwithRoyalandhiswifeLizin2011,relatedtotheSierraClub’shonoringhimwithitsFrancisFarquharMountaineeringAward.Represen;ngtheMountaineeringOversightCommiTee,IwasunexpectedlyhonoredtopresentittohimattheawardseventinSanFrancisco.

Asnotedinanar;cleintheJuly-Sept2017Echo,Royal(82)passedawayathomeonMarch14,2017.HisearlylifewascenteredinLA,andhisclimbingcareerjump-startedin1950whenatagefiWeenheencounteredaRockClimbingSec;onprac;ceatStoneyPoint.HewasacceptedintoRCSmembershipaboutthesame;measBarbaraLilley,andintheirearlycareerstheyoccasionallyclimbedtogetheratTahquitzandinYosemite.

ThegatheringindowntownModestowaspackedwithaboutfivehundredguests.Manylargephotoposterswereonthewalls,plusdisplaysofclimbinggearandexhibitsofmemorabilia.Elevenremembranceswereshared,justoverhalfrelatedtoRoyal'sextraordinaryclimbinglife.Bothhiskidsspoke,TamaraandDamon,aswellasclimbersJerryGallwas,JoeFitschen,BillDerr,RonKauk,andYvonChouinard.

OthernotableclimberspresentwhosenamesIrecognizeincludeFrankHoover,DonLauria,PeterCroW,JohnLong,MikeSherrick,TomCochrane,

GlenDenny,MarkWellman,VernClevenger,LynnHill,ChrisJones,andDougRobinson.Unfortunately,therewerenolargegroupphotostakenofthem.Royalwrotealotinnotebooks.Tamaraquotedfromone:“Manypeoplethink‘rich’meansmoneyandmaterialthings,buttruerichesareinsideofusandareunseenconnec;onsbetweenus.Truerichesarelove,gra;tude,hopeenthusiasm,op;mism,friendshipandjoy.”AllthoseaTendingsharedaspecialaWernoontogether,uniquelyandcollec;velyrememberingamanwhotouchedandenrichedtheirlives

ininnumerableways.Asseveralspeakersnoted,I'msureweallfeltthatRoyalwastherewithuswithhiswrysmile.Nodoubthehasbrought"cleanclimbing"toanewlevelamongtheheavenlyspires.

TheselinksprovidephotosoftheFarquharAwardceremonyplusthememorialservice:hTp://bit.ly/RobbinsSCAwardandhTp://bit.ly/RobbinsMemorial.

Update:thefourthannualOakdaleClimbersFes;valinOctoberwillfeatureaspecialremembranceofRoyalRobbins.Detailshere:hTp://bit.ly/Oakdale2018

RoyalRobbinsMemorialCelebra;onBy Bill Oliver

Top: Memorial program, note the nut inserted in the upper left. Bottom: Attendees waiting for the start of remembrances (Photos by Bill Oliver).

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The Sierra EchoVolume 62 ◭ Number 2 ◭ April-June 2018

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