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8/14/2019 The Romance of the Colorado River by Dellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel, 1853-1935
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Title:TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver
Author:FrederickS.Dellenbaugh
ReleaseDate:August,2003[Etext#4316][Yes,wearemorethanoneyearaheadofschedule][ThisfilewasfirstpostedonJanuary5,2002]
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EtextproducedbyDianneBean,PrescottValley,Arizona.
Title:TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver
Author:FrederickS.Dellenbaugh
Language:English
Title:TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver
Author:FrederickS.Dellenbaugh
Language:English
EtextproducedbyDianneBean,PrescottValley,Arizona.
NOTE:
Listofthemaps,graphs,photos,andpaintingsscannedfromTheRomanceoftheColoradoRiverbyDellenbaugh.Fewerthanhalfofthepicturesinthebookwerescannedtoaccompanytheetext.Theseimagesaccompanythe.zipversionofthisetext.
Page/.jpgfilenumberDescription
000front.Frontpiece.LookingUptheBrightAngelTrail.Moran.
000glyph.Tail-pieceofPreface.Sketchofapicture-writing.
000xvii.TheSteamer"Undine."
00prefmap.Preface.MapshowingRelationoftheCanyonsoftheGreenandColoradototheSurroundingCountry.
015.Alarcon'sShipsStrugglingWiththeGreatBoreoftheColorado--1540.
026.TheColoradoattheJunctionoftheGila.
030.CocopaTuleRaft.
037.Map.TheGrand-MarbleCanyonRegion.
041.The"HoleintheWall"nearFortDefiance,Arizona.
041.opp.ReliefMapoftheGrandCanyonRegion.
043.LookingDownUponGlenCanyon.
052.Gray'sPeak,Torrey'sPeak.
055.OutlineSketchoftheGrandCanyonfromPointSublime.
057.ProfileoftheColoradoThroughtheGrandCanyon.
079.AcrosstheHouseTopsofZuni.
081.RuinCalledCasaGrande,Arizona.
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083.IntheGrandCanyon.KolbExpedition1911.
093.IntheMokiTownofMishongnuvi,Arizona.
095.TheCanyonoftheLittleColorado.
098.AZuniHome.
099.TheGovernorsofZuni.
101.PaiUteGirls,SouthernUtah,CarryingWater.
109.Map.GreenRiverthroughtheUintaMountains1871
113.AshleyFalls,RedCanyon,GreenRiver,insetwithAshley'srocksignature.
129.APortageintheCanyonofLodore.
137.LasVegas,SouthernNevada,ontheOldSpanishTrail,1876.
159.Robinson'sLanding,mouthoftheColoradoriver.
161.TheSteamerExplorerinwhichLieut.Ivesin1858Ascendedthe
ColoradotoFootofBlackCanyon.
163.LookingDownontheGrandCanyonfromtheMouthoftheKanab.
178.AGlenofGlenCanyon.
180.InCataractCanyon.
185.JohnWesleyPowell,about1876.
195.RedCanyon--GreenRiver.Upperportion.Lookingupstream.
197.CanyonofLodore--UpperpartofDisasterFalls.
201.CanyonofLodore.LookingdownatTripletFalls.
203.EchoRockonRight,fromwhichEchoRockTakesitsName.
205.TheCanyonofDesolation--Sumner'sAmphitheatre.
206.TheCanyonofDesolation--LowWater.
214.TheCragsatMillecragBend,footofCataractCanyon.
215.TheMusicTempleAlcove,GlenCanyon.
217.TheDepthsoftheGrandCanyonatSunset.
219.TheGrandcanyon.The"Sockdologer"Rapid.
223.IntheMidstofaGrandCanyonRapid.
225.TheGrandcanyon--GraniteButtresses.
229.TheBasketMaker.OldwomanoftheKaibabPaiUtes.
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231.BrotherBelder's--VirgenCity.AtypicalfrontierMormonhome.
242.ReadyfortheStart,U.S.ColoradoRiverExpedition,GreenRiver,Wyoming,1871.
243.PortraitsofallbyTwoMembersoftheBoatPartyoftheU.S.ColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871.
267.AHaltforObservations.
275.TheButteoftheCross,betweenLabyrinthandStillwaterCanyons.
285.CataractCanyon,Right-handWallNearLowerEnd.
289.GlenCanyonWall.
290.GlenCanyon.
302.TheCrewofthe"Trilobite."
308.MajorPowellandaPaiUte.SouthernUtah,1872.
315.MajorPowellinthefield,1872.
321.MarbleCanyon.
326.F.S.Dellenbaugh,1872.Theexploringcostume.
329.RunningtheSockdologer,GrandCanyon.
333.WhatMayHappenAnytime.Boatpunctured.
335.ACapsizeintheGrandCanyon.
345.InMarbleCanyon.
352.OneoftheJulienInscriptions.D.Julien--1863--3Mai.
360.TheGrandCanyon.IntheFirstGraniteGorge.
365.LookinguptheGrandCanyon,attheFootofToroweap,UinkaretDivision,1875.
366.TheGrandCanyon--LavaFalls.
367.OntheBrightAngelTrail.
374.JohnWesleyPowell.1834-1902.1901portrait.
388.Appendix.Thecanyons,valleys,andmouthsofprincipal
tributariesoftheColorado,inorder,page1.
389.Appendix.Thecanyons,valleys,andmouthsofprincipaltributariesoftheColorado,inorder,page2.
392.IntheGrandCanyonOppositeShinumoCreek.
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TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver:TheStoryofitsDiscoveryin1840,withanAccountoftheLaterExplorations,andwithSpecialReferencetotheVoyagesofPowellthroughtheLineoftheGreatCanyons
ByFrederickS.Dellenbaugh
MemberoftheUnitedStatesColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871and1872
"Nosluggishtidecongenialtotheglooms:This,asitfrothedby,mighthavebeenabathForthefiend'sglowinghoof----"Browning
TomyfriendsandcomradesoftheColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871and1872ingratefulremembrance.
PREFACE
Earlyin1871,whenMajorPowell*waspreparingforhisseconddescentthroughthecanyonsoftheGreenandColoradorivers,hewasbesiegedbymeneagertoaccompanyhim;someevenofferedtopaywell
fortheprivilege.Itwasforme,therefore,apieceofgreatgoodfortunewhen,afteraninterviewinChicagowiththeeminentexplorer,hedecidedtoaddmetohissmallparty.Iwasveryyoungatthetime,butmuscularandhealthy,andfamiliarwiththehandlingofsmallboats.TheMajorremarkedthatinthebusinessbeforeusitwasnotsomuchageandstrengththatwereneededas"nerve,"andheevidentlybelievedIhadenoughofthistocarrymethrough.Certainlyinthetwo-years,continuousworkontheriverandintheadjacentcountryIhadsomeopportunitytodevelopthisdesirablequality.Ishallneverceasetofeelgratefultohimfortheconfidencereposedinme.Itgavemeoneoftheuniqueexperiencesofmylife,--anexperiencewhich,onexactlythesamelines,canneverberepeatedwithinourborders.Now,thesethirtyyearsafter,I
reviewthatexperiencewithsatisfactionandpleasure,recalling,withdeepaffection,thekindandgenerouscompanionsofthatwildandmemorablejourney.Nopartyofmenthrowntogether,withoutexternalcontactformonthsatatime,couldhavebeenmoreharmonious;andneveroncedidanymemberofthatpartyshowthewhitefeather.Idesiretoacknowledgehere,also,myindebtednesstoProf.A.H.Thompson,MajorPowell'sassociateinhissecondexpedition,formanykindnesses.
*IusethetitleMajorforthereasonthathewassowidelyknownforsolongaperiodbyit.HewasavolunteerofficerduringtheCivilWar,holdingtherankofColonelattheend.ThetitleMajor,then,hasnomilitarysignificanceinthisconnection.
WhenhisreporttoCongresswaspublished,MajorPowell,perhapsforthesakeofdramaticunity,concludedtoomitmentionofthepersonnelofthesecondexpedition,awardingcredit,forallthatwasaccomplished,tothemenofhisfirstwonderfulvoyageof1869.Andthesemensurelydeservedallthatcouldbebestowedonthem.Theyhad,undertheMajor'sclear-sightedguidanceandcooljudgment,performedoneofthedistinguishedfeatsofhistory.Theyhadfacedunknowndangers.Theyhaddeterminedthattheforbiddingtorrent
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couldbemastered.Butithasalwaysseemedtomethatthemenofthesecondparty,whomadethesamejourney,whomappedandexploredtheriverandmuchofthecountryroundabout,doingalargeamountofdifficultworkinthescientificline,shouldhavebeenaccordedsomerecognition.Theabsenceofthishassometimesbeenembarrassingforthereasonthatwhenstatementsofmembersofthesecondpartywerereferredtotheofficialreport,theirnameswerefoundmissingfromthelist.Thisinclinedtoproduceanunfavourableimpressionconcerningtheseindividuals.Inordertoprovideinmyowncaseagainstanyunpleasantcircumstanceowingtothisomission,IwrotetoMajorPowellonthesubjectandreceivedthefollowinghighlysatisfactoryanswer:
Washington,D.C.,January18,1888.
MyDearDellenbaugh:Replyingtoyournoteofthe14thinstant,itgivesmegreatpleasuretostatethatyouwereamemberofmysecondpartyofexplorationdowntheColorado,duringtheyears1871and1872,thatyouoccupiedaplaceinmyownboatandrenderedvaluableservicestotheexpedition,andthatitwaswithregretonmypartthatyourconnectionwiththeSurveyceased.Yourscordially,J.W.Powell.
Recently,whenIinformedhimofmyintentiontopublishthisvolume,heverykindlywroteasfollows:
Washington,January6,1902.
DearDellenbaugh:IampleasedtohearthatyouareengagedinwritingabookontheColoradoCanyon.Ihopethatyouwillputonrecordthesecondtripandthegentlemenwhoweremembersofthatexpedition.Noothertriphasbeenmadesincethattime,thoughmanyhavetriedtofollowus.Oneparty,thatheadedbyMr.Stanton,wentthroughtheGrandCanyononitssecondattempt,butmanypersonshavelosttheirlivesin
attemptingtofollowusthroughthewholelengthofthecanyons.Ishallbeverygladtowriteashortintroductiontoyourbook.Yourscordially,J.W.Powell.
Incomplyingwiththisrequesttoputonrecordthesecondexpeditionandthegentlemenwhocomposedit,Ifeelallthegreaterpleasure,because,atthesametime,Iseemtobefulfillingadutytowardsmyoldcomrades.ThereaderisreferredtoChapterXIV.,andtopages368-9forlaterdataondescents.Notwithstandingthesethecanyonsremainalmostterraincognitaforeachnewnavigator.TherehavebeensomewhoappeartobeinclinedtowithholdfromMajorPowellthefullcreditwhichishisforsolvingthegreatproblemoftheSouthwest,
andwho,therefore,makemuchoftheflimsystoryofWhite,andevenassumeonfaintevidencethatothersfathomedthemysteryevenbeforeWhite.Thereis,inmyopinion,nogroundforsuchassumptions.Severaltrappers,likePattieandCarson,hadgainedaconsiderableknowledgeofthegeneralcourseandcharacteroftheriverasearlyas1830,buttoMajorPowellandhistwopartiesundoubtedlybelongsthehighhonourofbeingthefirsttoexploreandexplainthetruthaboutitanditsextraordinarycanyonenvironment.Ifdanger,difficulty,anddisastermeanromance,thenassuredlytheColoradooftheWestisentitledtofirstrank,forseldomhasanyhumanbeing
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toucheditsborderlandeven,withoutsomebitterorfatalexperience.NeveristheColoradotwicealike,andeachnewexperienceisdifferentfromthelast.Onceacknowledgethisandthedangers,however,andapproachitinahumbleandreverentspirit,albeitfirmly,anddeathneedseldombethepenaltyofavoyageonitsrestlesswaters.
Ihaveendeavouredtopresentthehistoryoftheriver,andimmediateenvironment,sofarasIhavebeenabletolearnit,butwithinthelimitsofasinglevolumeofthissizemuchmustnecessarilybeomitted.ReferencetotheadmirableworksofPowell,Gilbert,andButtonwillgivethereaderfullinformationconcerningthegeologyandtopography;Garces,byElliottCoues,givesthestoryofthefriars;andtheexcellentmemoirofChittenden,TheAmericanFurTradeoftheFarWest,willgiveacompleteunderstandingofthetravelsandexploitsoftherealpioneersoftheRockyMountaincountry.Idifferwiththisauthor,however,astothewiseandcommendablenatureoftheearlytrappers'dealingswiththenatives,andthiswillbeexplainedinthepagesonthatsubject.Healsosaysinhisprefacethat"nofeatureofwesterngeographywaseverdiscoveredbygovernmentexplorersafter1840."Whilethisiscorrectinthemain,itgivesanerroneousimpressionsofarasthecanyonsoftheColoradoareconcerned.Thesecanyonswere"discovered,"asmentionedabove,bysomeofthetrappers,buttheirinterior
characterwasnotknown,exceptinthevaguestway,sothatthediscoverywasmuchlikediscoveringarangeofmountainsonthehorizonandnotenteringbeyondthefoothills.
Forthetitlesofworksofreference,ofthenarrativesoftrappers,etc.,IrefertotheworksofH.H.Bancroft;toWarren'sMemoirs,vol.i.PacificRailroadreports;andtothefirstvolumeofLieut.Geo.M.Wheeler'sreportonExplorationsWestofthe100thMeridian.ThetrappersandprospectorswhohadsomeexperienceontheGreenandtheColoradohavelefteithernorecordsorveryincompleteones.Itseemstolerablycertain,however,thatnoexperienceofimportancehasescapednotice.Sofarasattemptsatdescentareconcerned,theyinvariablymetwithspeedydisasterandweregivenup.
InwritingtheSpanishandotherforeignpropernamesIhaveinnocasetranslated,becausesuchtranslationsresultinneedlessconfusion.Totranslate"RiodelTizon"asFirebrandRiverismakinganothernameofit.FewwouldrecognisetheColoradoRiverunderthetitleofRedRiver,asused,forexample,inPattie'snarrative.WhileColoradomeansred,itisquiteanothermatterasaNAME.NordoIapproveofhyphenatingnativewords,asissofrequentlydone.ItisnoeasiertounderstandMis-sis-sip-pithanMississippi.MythanksareduetoMr.ThomasMoran,thedistinguishedpainter,fortheadmirablesketchfromnaturehehassokindlypermittedareproductionofforafrontispiece.Mr.MoranhasbeenidentifiedasapainteroftheGrandCanyoneversince1873,whenhewentthere
withoneofPowell'spartiesandmadesketchesfromtheendoftheKaibabPlateauwhichafterwardsresultedinthesplendidpictureoftheGrandCanyonnowownedbytheGovernment.
IamindebtedtoProf.A.H.Thompsonfortheuseofhisriverdiaryasacheckuponmyown,andalsoformanyphotographsnowdifficulttoobtain;andtoDr.G.K.Gilbert,Mr.E.E.Howell,Dr.T.MitchellPrudden,andMr.DelancyGillfortheuseofspecialphotographs.OtherdebtsinthislineIacknowledgeineachinstanceandhencewillnotrepeathere.Ihadhopedtohaveanopportunityof
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againreadingoverthediarywhich"Jack"SumnerkeptonthefirstPowellexpedition,andwhichIhavenotseensincethetimeofthesecondexpedition,buttheseriousillnessofMajorPowellpreventedmyrequestingtheuseofit.F.S.Dellenbaugh.NewYork,October,1902.
NOTE.--Sincethelasteditionofthisworkwaspublished,theinquiriesofMr.RobertBrewsterStantonhavebroughttolightamongsomeforgottenpapersofMajorPowell'sattheBureauofEthnologyinWashingtonthediaryofJackSumnerandalsothatofMajorPowellhimself.BothbeginatthemouthoftheUintaRiver.
MajorPowell,becauseofhisone-armedcondition,hadtheonlylife-preserver.ThepreserverwasrubberoftheinflatingtypeandisintheSmithsonianInstitution,presentedbyMr.Stantonwhoobtaineditfromoneofthesurvivorsin1907.
NOTEONTHEAUTHOR'SITINERARYINTHEBASINOFTHECOLORADORIVERANDADJACENTTERRITORY(Exceptwhereotherwisestatedjourneyswereonhorseback.)
1871--ByboatfromtheUnionPacificRailwaycrossingofGreenRiver,downtheGreenandColoradotothemouthoftheParia,Lee'sFerry.Numeroussidetripsonfoot.Lee'sFerrytoHouseRockValley,andacrossnorthendoftheKaibabPlateautothevillageofKanab.
1872--KanabtoHouseRockValleyandPariaPlateau.ToKanab.TosouthernpartofKaibabPlateau.ToKanabviaShinumoCanyonandKanabCanyon.ToPipeSpring.TotheUinkaretMountainsandtheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweapValley.ToBerrySpringnearSt.George,alongtheedgeoftheHurricaneLedge.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaDiamondButte.TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweap.ToBerrySpringviaDiamondButteandalongthefootoftheHurricaneLedge.ToSt.George.TotheVirgenMountains
andsummitofMt.Bangs.ToKanabviaSt.George.TotheAquariusPlateauviaPotatoValley.ToandacrosstheHenryMountains.TotheColoradoatthemouthofFremontRiver.ByboattothemouthoftheParia.ToKanabandreturnacrosstheKaibab.ByboatdowntheColoradotothemouthoftheKanab.ToKanabviatheKanabCanyon.TotheUinkaretMountains.ToKanabviaPipeSpring.
1873--ToSaltLakeCity,viaLongValleyandtheSevierRiver.
1875--ToterminusofUtahSouthernRailway,aboutatSpanishForks,byrail.ToKanabviaSevierRiverandUpperKanab.TotheKaibabPlateau,DeMottePark,andtherimoftheGrandCanyon.TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonviaShinumoandKanabCanyons.ToKanab
viaKanabCanyon.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaPipeSpringandtheWildBandPockets.TotheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweap.
1876--ToSt.GeorgeacrosstheUinkaretPlateau.ToLasVegas,Nevada,viaBeaverDam,VirgenRiver,theMuddy,andthedesert.ToSt.George,bythedesertandtheold"St.Joe"roadacrosstheBeaverDamMountains.TotherimoftheGrandCanyon,viaHiddenSpring,theCopperMine,andMt.Dellenbaugh.Toaredpaintcaveonthesideofthecanyon,abouttwenty-fivehundredfeetdown.ToSt.Georgeviasameroute.ToIvanpah,California,viatheolddesert
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road,theMuddy,LasVegas,andGoodSpring.ToSt.Georgeviasameroute.ToKanabviaShortCreekandPipeSpring.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaPipeSpringandAntelopeValley.AcrosstotheShewitsPlateauandtoAmbushWaterpocketsouthofMt.Dellenbaugh.*TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonontheeastsideoftheShewitsPlateau.ToSt.GeorgeviaMt.DellenbaughandHiddenSpring.ToKanabviaBerrySpringandPipeSpring.ToSaltLakeCityviaUpperKanabandtheSevierValley.
Thiswaterpocket,whichisaverylargeone,has,sofarasIamaware,neverhadanEnglishnameandIdonotknowtheAmerindone.Ihavecalledit"Ambush"becauseitwastheplacewherethreeofPowell'smenwereshotbytheShewitsin1869.Seealsopp.229-30.
1884-5--ByrailtoFt.Wingate,NewMexico.ByrailtoFlagstaff.ToFlagstaffviacircuitof,andsummitof,SanFranciscoMountainandtheTurkeyTanks.ByrailtotheNeedles,California.ByrailtoManuelito,NewMexico.ToFt.Defiance.BybuckboardtoKeam'sCanyon.TotheEastMesaoftheMoki.ToKeam'sCanyon.BybuckboardviaPueblo,Colorado,toFt.Defiance.TotheSanJuanRiveratthe"FourCorners,"viaLukachukaiPassandthesummitoftheCarissoMountains.ToFt.DefianceviathecrestoftheTunichaPlateau.BybuckboardtoKeam'sandtotheEastMesaoftheMoki.ToMishongnuviandback.BywaggontoKeam's.ToOraibeviaTewa.ToKeam'svia
ShimopaviandTewa.ToHolbrookbybuckboard.
1899--ByrailwestacrossGreenRiverValley.ByraildownPriceRiver,eastacrossGunnisonValley,upGrandRiver,andovertheContinentalDivide.
1903--ByrailtoSaltLake.ByrailtoModena.ByhorseuptheVirgenRivertothenarrowsofMukoontuweap.ThenceviaRockvilleandShortCreektoPipeSpringsandKanab.ThencetoDeMottePark,BrightAngelSpring,andGreenlandPointattheGrandCanyonontheKaibabPlateau.ThencetoKanab,Panquitch,andMarysvale.ThencebyrailtoSaltLake.
1907--ByrailtoGrandCanyon,Arizona.ByhorsetoBassCamp,tothebottomoftheGrandCanyon,oppositeShinumoCreek,toHabasuCanyon,toGrandCanyonStation,andtoGrandView.ByrailtotheNeedles.
CONTENTS
CHAPTERI.TheSecretoftheGulf--Ulloa,1539,OneoftheCaptainsofCortes,AlmostSolvesit,butTurnsBackwithoutDiscovering--Alarcon,1540,Conquers
CHAPTERII.TheUnknownRiver--AlarconAscendsitEighty-fiveLeaguesandNamesittheRiodeBuenaGuia--MelchiorDiazArrivesatits
BanksLaterandCallsittheRiodelTizon--CardenasDiscoverstheGrandCanyon.
CHAPTERIII.TheGrandCanyon--CharacteroftheColoradoRiver--TheWater-Gods;ErosionandCorrasion--TheNativesandtheirHighways--The"GreenRiverValley"oftheOldTrappers--TheStrangeVegetationandSomeSingularAnimals
CHAPTERIV.Onate,1604,CrossesArizonatotheColorado--ARemarkableAncientRuinDiscoveredbyPadreKino,1694--PadreGarces
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SeestheGrandCanyonandVisitsOraibi,1776--TheGreatEntradaofPadreEscalanteacrossGreenRivertoUtahLake,1776--DeathofGarcesEndstheEntradaPeriod,1781.
CHAPTERV.BreakingtheWilderness--WanderingsoftheTrappersandFurTraders--GeneralAshleyinGreenRiverValley,1824--PattiealongtheGrandCanyon,1826--LieutenantHardy,R.N.,inaSchoonerontheLowerColorado,l826--JedediahSmith,SaltLaketoSanGabriel,1826--PattieontheLowerColoradoinCanoes,1827-28
CHAPTERVI.Fremont,thePathfinder--OwnershipoftheColorado--TheRoadoftheGoldSeekers--FirstUnitedStatesMilitaryPost,1849--SteamNavigation--CaptainJohnsonGoestotheHeadofBlackCanyon
CHAPTERVII.LieutenantIvesExplorestoFortificationRock--ByTrailtoDiamondCreek,HavasupaiCanyon,andtheMokiTowns--MacombFailsinanAttempttoReachtheMouthofGrandRiver--JamesWhite'sMasterfulFabrication
CHAPTERVIII.TheOne-armedKnight--ABoldAttackontheCanyons--PowellandHisMen--TheWonderfulVoyage--MightyWallsandRoaringRapids--CapsizesandCatastrophes
CHAPTERIX.ACanyonofCataracts--TheImperialChasm--ShortRations--ASplitintheParty--Separation--FateoftheHowlandsandDunn--TheMonsterVanquished
CHAPTERX.Powell'sSecondAttackontheColorado--GreenRiverCity--RedCanyonandaCapsize--TheGraveofHook--TheGateofLodore--CliffoftheHarp--TripletFallsandHell'sHalf-Mile--ARestinEchoPark
CHAPTERXI.AnIslandParkandaSplitMountain--TheWhiteRiverRunaways--PowellGoestoSaltLake--FailuretoGetRationstotheDirtyDevil--OntheRocksinDesolation--NaturalWindows--AnAncientHouse--OntheBackoftheDragonatLast--CataractsandCataractsin
theWonderfulCataractCanyon--ALostPack-Train--NamingtheEchoPeaks
CHAPTERXII.IntotheJawsoftheDragon--AUselessExperiment--WheelerReachesDiamondCreekGoingUp-stream--TheHurricaneLedge--SomethingaboutNames--ATripfromKanabthroughUnknownCountrytotheMouthoftheDirtyDevil
CHAPTERXIII.ACanyonthroughMarble-MultitudinousRapids--RunningtheSockdologer--ADifficultPortage,RisingWater,andaTrap--TheDeanUpsideDown--ACloseShave--WhirlpoolsandFountains--TheKanabCanyonandtheEndoftheVoyage
CHAPTERXIV.ARailwayProposedthroughtheCanyons--TheBrownParty,1889,UndertakestheSurvey--FrailBoatsandDisasters--TheDragonClaimsThree--CollapseoftheExpedition--StantonTriestheFeatAgain,1889-90--AFallandaBrokenLeg--SuccessofStanton--TheDragonStillUntrammelled
Epilogue
Appendix
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{photop.xvii}TheSteamer"Undine."WreckedwhiletryingtoascendarapidonGrandRiveraboveMoab.PhotographbyR.G.Leonard.Hisexperienceonthisriverranthroughaperiodofsome20yearsfromabout1892.Hediedintheautumnof1913.Everyyearhebuiltoneormoreboatstryingtoimproveoneach.TheStonemodel(seecut,page129)wasthefinaloutcome.Theusualhigh-watermarkatBrightAngelTrailis45feethigherthantheusuallow-watermark.StantonmeasuredthegreatestdeclivityinCataractCanyonandfoundittobe55feetintwomiles.ThetotalfallinCataractCanyonhemade355feet.Withafallpermileof271/2feet.Cataractholdstherecordfordeclivity,thoughthisisonlyfortwomiles,whileintheGraniteFallssectionoftheGrandCanyonthereisafallof21feetpermilefortenmiles.
THEROMANCEOFTHECOLORADORIVER
CHAPTERI.
TheSecretoftheGulf--Ulloa,1539,OneoftheCaptainsofCortes,AlmostSolvesit,butTurnsBackwithoutDiscovering--Alarcon,1540,Conquers.
Ineverycountrythegreat,rivershavepresentedattractivepathwaysforinteriorexploration--gatewaysforsettlement.Eventuallytheyhavegrowntobehighroadswheretherichcargoesofdevelopment,profitingbyfavouringtides,floatedtotheouterworld.Man,duringallhiswanderingsinthestruggleforsubsistence,hasuniversallyfoundthemhisfriendsandallies.Theyhaveyieldedtohimasaconqueringstranger;theyhaveatlastbecomeforhimfoster-parents.Theirverdantbankshaveshelteredandprotectedhim;theirskieshavesmileduponhiscrops.Withgratefulmemories,therefore,isclothedforusthesoundofsuchrivernamesasThames,Danube,Hudson,Mississippi.Throughthecenturiestheirkindlywatershavebornedownancestralargosiesofprofitwithoutnumber,establishing
thusthewealthandhappinessofthepeople.Wellhaveriversbeentermedthe"ArteriesofCommerce";well,also,maytheybeconsideredthebindinglinksofcivilisation.
Then,bycontrast,itisallthemoreremarkabletomeetwithonegreatriverwhichisnoneofthesehelpfulthings,butwhich,onthecontrary,isaveritabledragon,loudinitsdangerouslair,defiant,fierce,opposingutilityeverywhere,refusingabsolutelytobebridledbyCommerce,perpetuatingawilderness,prohibitingmankind'sencroachments,andinitsimmediatetidepresentingaformidablehostofsnarlingwaterswhoseangryroar,reverberatingwildlyleagueafterleaguebetweengiantrock-wallscarvedthroughthebowelsoftheearth,heraldstheimpossibilityofhumanconquestandsmothers
hope.Fromthetinyrivuletsofitssnowybirthtotheferocioustidalborewhereitdiesinthesea,itwagesaceaselessbattleassublimeasitisterribleandunique.SuchisthegreatColoradoRiveroftheWest,risingamidstthefountainsofthebeautifulWindRiverMountainsofWyoming,wherealsoarebroughtforththegentlerColumbiaandthemighty,far-reachingMissouri.Whirlingdowntenthousandfeetinsometwothousandmiles,itmeetsthehotleveloftheRedSea,oncetheSeaofCortes,nowtheGulfofCalifornia,intumultandturmoil.Inthislongrunitiscliffboundnine-tenthsoftheway,andthewholecountrydrainedbyitanditstributarieshas
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beenwroughtbythewatersandwindsofagesintomultitudinousplateausandcanyons.Thecanyonsofitstributariesoftenrivalingrandeurthoseofthemainstreamitself,andthetributariesreceiveothercanyonsequallymagnificent,sothatweseehereastupendoussystemofgorgesandtributarygorges,which,evennowbewildering,weretotheearlypioneerpracticallyprohibitory.Wateristhemastersculptorinthisweird,wonderfulland,yetonecouldtheredieeasilyofthirst.Notwithstandingthegiganticworkaccomplished,water,exceptontheriver,isscarce.Oftenformonthsthesoilofthevalleysandplainsneverfeelsrain;evendewisunknown.Inthisaridregionmuchofthevegetationissetwiththorns,andsomeoftheanimalsaremadetomatchthevegetation.Aknowledgeofthisforbiddingarea,nowrobbedofsomeofitsoldterrorsbythefacilitiesintransportation,hasbeenfinallygainedonlybyalongseriesofpersistentefforts,attendedbydangers,privations,reverses,discouragements,anddisastersinnumerable.TheAmerind,*theredman,roameditswildvalleys.Sometribesbuiltstonehouseswhoseruinsarenowfoundoverlookingitswaters,eveninthedepthsoftheGrandCanyonitself,orinthecliffsalongthemoreaccessibletributaries,cultivatinginthebottomstheircrops.Landswerealsotilledalongtheextremelowerreaches,wherethegreatrock-wallsfallbackandalluvialsoilsborderthestream.HereandtheretheAmerindalsocrossedit,whenoccasionrequired,onthegreatintertribalhighwayswhicharefoundinalldistricts,butit
wasneitheronethingnoranothertohim.
*Thisnameisasubstituteforthemisnomer"Indian."Itsuseavoidsconfusion.
Sotheriverrolledonthroughitssolemncanyonsinprimevalfreedom,unvexedbythetamperingandmeddlingofman.TheSpaniards,afterthepicturesqueconquestofthelucklessAztecs,wereeagerlysearchingfornewfieldsofprofitablebattle,andthentheydreamedoffindingamongthemysteriesofthealluringnorthland,stretchingsofarawayintotheUnknown,arepetitionoftownsaspopulous,aswealthyinpuregold,asthoseofthevalleyofMexicowhose
despoiledtreasureshadfiredthecupidityofEuropeandhadcrammedthestrongboxesoftheSpanishking.Andtheremightbetownsevenricher!Whocouldsay?AnAmerindnamedTejo,whobelongedtoGuzmanwhenhewaspresidentofNewSpain,thatis,about1530,toldofjourneyshehadmadewithhisfather,whenaboy,totradeinthefarnorthwherehesawverylargevillageslikeMexico,especiallysevenlargetownsfullofsilver-workers,fortydays'journeythroughthewilderness.Thiswelcomestorywasfueltothefire.Guzmanorganisedapartyandstartedforthesewonderfulsevencities,butnumerousdifficultiespreventedthefulfilmentofhisplans,andcausedahaltaftertraversingbutasmallportionofthedistance.CorteshadnowalsoreturnedfromavisittoSpain,andheandGuzmanwereatthepointofthesword.Thenshortlyarrivedfromthenorth(1536),after
incrediblewanderingsbetweentheMississippiandtheRioGrande,thatmanofwonderfulendurance,AlvarNunezCabezadeVaca,*withhissurvivingcompanions,Dorantes,Maldonado,andEstevan.Thelatter,anegro,wasafterwardsveryprominentbyhisconnectionwiththefatalexpeditionsentoutundertheFriarMarcostoinvestigatethenorthcountry.Thenegro,ifnottheothermen,gaveahighlycoloredaccountofthelandstheyhadtraversed,andespeciallyofwhattheyhadheard,sothatmorefuelwasaddedtothefire,andthedesiretoexplorethemysteriesburnedintoexecution.Cortes,harassedbyhisnumerousenemiesinMexicoandSpain,determinedona
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newefforttocarryouthischerishedplanofreapingfurthergloriesinthefascinatingregionsofthenorthsofullofpossibilities.ThereconsequentlysailedfromAcapulco,July8,1539,afleetofthreevesselsunderFranciscodeUlloa.Corteswaspreventedbycircumstancesfromgoingwiththisexpedition.AftermanydifficultiesUlloaatlengthfoundhimselfattheveryheadoftheSeaofCortesinshallowwater.
*ForafullaccountoftheexperiencesofAlvarNunez,seethetranslationofBuckinghamSmith.AlsoBandolier,ContributionstotheHistoryoftheSouthwesternPortionsoftheUnitedStates.
"Andthussailing[hewrites]wealwaysfoundmoreshallowwater,andtheseathick,black,andverymuddy,andcameatlengthintofivefathomwater;andseeingthiswedeterminedtopassovertothelandwhichwehadseenontheotherside,andherelikewisewefoundaslittledepthorless,whereuponwerodeallnightinfivefathomwater,andweperceivedtheseatorunwithsogreatarageintothelandthatitwasathingmuchtobemarveledat;andwiththelikefuryitreturnedbackagainwiththeebb,duringwhichtimewefoundelevenfathomwater,andthefloodandebbcontinuedfromfivetosixhours."Thenextdaythecaptainandthepilotwentuptotheship'stopandsawallthelandfullofsandinagreatroundcompassand
joiningitselfwiththeothershore;anditwassolowthatwhereaswewerealeaguefromthesamewecouldnotdiscernit,anditseemedtherewasaninletofthemouthsofcertainlakes,wherebytheseawentinandout.Therewerediversopinionsamongstus,andsomethoughtthatthatcurrententeredintotheselakes,andalsothatsomegreatrivertheremightbethecausethereof."*
*FromHakluyt'sVoyages.Thespellinghasbeenmodernised.
ThisseemstohavebeentheveryfirstvisitofEuropeanstothemouthoftheColorado,butasUlloadidnotseetheriver,andonlysurmisedthattheremightbeonethere,itcannotbeconsideredin
anywayadiscovery.IthasbeensupposedbysomethatFriarJuandelaAsumpcion,in1538,mighthavereachedtheColoradoinhisdeepriverwhichhecouldnotcross,butthisriverwasmorelikelyabranchoftheYaqui,forthefriarwastoldthattendaysbeyond,tothenorth,therewasanotherlargerriversettledbymanypeople,whosehouseshadthreestories,andwhosevillageswereenclosed.ThisdescribestheRioGrandeanditssouthernsettlementsperfectly,sothat,hadhebeenontheColorado,oreventheGila,theRioGrandecouldnothavebeendescribedas"tendaystothenorth."Ulloatookpossessionformally,accordingtoSpanishcustom,andthensailedsouthwardagain.Thoughhehadnotfoundthegreatriver,hehaddeterminedoneimportantgeographicalpoint:thatLowerCaliforniawasnot,ashadbeensupposed,anisland,butwasa
peninsula;neverthelessforafullcenturythereafteritwasconsideredanisland.HadUlloafolloweduptherushofthecurrenthewouldhavebeenthediscovereroftheColoradoRiver,butinspiteofhismarvellingatthefuryofithedidnotseemtoconsideraninvestigationworthwhile;orhemayhavebeenafraidofwreckinghisships.Hisinertialeftitforabolderman,whowassooninhiswake.ButtheintrepidsoulofCortesmusthavebeensorelydisappointedatthemeagreresultsofthis,hislastexpedition,whichhadcosthimalargesum,andcompelledthepawningofhiswife'sjewels.Thediscoveryofthemouthofagreatriverwouldhave
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bestowedonthisvoyageamoreromanticimportance,andwouldconsequentlyhavebeensomewhathealingtohisinjuredpride,ifnottohisdepletedpurse;buthissunwassetting.ThisvoyageofUlloawasitslastexpiringray.Withanartisticadjustmenttothesituationthatseemsremarkable,Ulloa,afterturningtheendofthepeninsulaandsailinguptheLowerCaliforniancoast,senthomeonesolitaryvessel,andvanishedthenforever.Financiallywrecked,andexasperatedtothelastdegreebytheslightsandindignitiesofhisenemiesandoftheMendozagovernment,CortesleftforSpainearlyin1540withthehopeofretrievinghispowerbyappearinginpersonbeforethemonarch.AsinthecaseofColumbus,scantsatisfactionwashis,andtheendwasthatthegallantcaptain,whoseromanticcareerintheNewWorldseemslikeafairytale,neveragainsawthesceneofhisconquests.
Mendoza,thenewviceroyofNewSpain,amanoffinecharacterbututterlywithoutsympathyforCortes,andwhowasinstrumentalinbringingabouthisdownfall,nowdeterminedonanexpeditionofgreatmagnitude:anexpeditionthatshouldproceedbybothlandandwatertothewonderfulSevenCitiesofCibola,believedtoberichbeyondcomputation.ThenegroEstevanhadlatelybeensentbacktothemarvelousnorthlandhesoglowinglydescribed,guidingMarcos,theFranciscanmonkofSavoyardbirth,whowastoinvestigatecarefully,asfaraspossible,thegloriesrecountedandspeedilyreport.They
wereinthenorthaboutthesametime(summerof1539)thatUlloawassailinguptheSeaofCortes.Thenegro,whohadbyarrangementproceededtheresomedaysinadvanceofMarcos,waskilledatthefirstPueblovillage,andMarcos,afraidofhislife,andbeforehehadseenanythingofthewonderfulcitiesexceptafrightenedglimpsefromadistanthill,beataprecipitateretreattoNewGalicia,theprovincejustnorthofNewSpain,andofwhichFrancisVasquezdeCoronadohadrecentlybeenmadegovernor.HereheastonishedCoronadowithadescriptionofthevastwealthand"beautyoftheSevenCitiesofCibola,adescriptionthatdoescredittohispowersofimagination.CoronadolostnotimeinaccompanyingMarcostoMexico,whereaconferencewithMendozaresultedinthepromotionofthemonk,andtheimmediateorganisationofthegreatexpedition
mentioned.Coronadowasmadegeneralofthelandforces,andHernandodeAlarconwasplacedinchargeoftheships.HavingalandmarchtomakeCoronado,startedinFebruary,1540,whileAlarconsailedinMay.CoronadoproceededtoSanMigueldeCuliacan,thelastsettlementtowardthenorth,nearthecoast,whencehetookadirectionslightlyeastofnorth.
Alarcon,withhisshipstheSanPedroandtheSantaCatalina,laidacourseforthehavenofSantIago.TheywerecaughtinaseverestormwhichsogreatlyfrightenedthemenontheSantaCatalina,"moreafraidthanwasneed,"remarksAlarcon,thattheycastoverboardninepiecesofordnance,twoanchors,onecable,and"manyotherthingsasneedfulfortheenterprisewhereinwewentastheshipitself."At
SantIagoherepairedhislosses,tookonstoresandsomemembersofhiscompany,andsailedforAguaiauall,theseaportofSanMigueldeCuliacan,whereCoronadowastoturnhisbackontheoutpostsofcivilisation.ThegeneralhadalreadygonewhenAlarconarrived,buttheyexpectedtoholdcommunicationwitheachother,ifnotactuallytomeet,fartheron;anditseemsfromthisthattheymusthavefeltconfidenceinfindingariverbywhichAlarconmightsailintotheinterior.Asearlyas1531therewerevaguereportsofalargeriver,themouthofwhichwasclosedbytheAmerindslivingtherebymeansofahugecablestretchedacrossfromsidetoside.Theremayalso
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havebeenotherrumoursofalargeriverbesidesthesurmisesoftheUlloaparty.Atanyrate,AlarconandCoronadofullyexpectedtobeintouchmuchofthetime.Thisexpectationappearsabsurdtousnowwhenweunderstandthegeography,buttherewasnothingoutofthewayaboutthesuppositionatthattime.Asithappened,thetwodivisionsnevermet,norweretheyabletocommunicateevenonce.SofarasrenderingCoronadoanyassistancewasconcerned,AlarconmightaswellhavebeenonthecoastofAfrica.Thefarthertheyproceededthefartheraparttheywere,butAlarconkeptaconstantandfaithfullookoutfortheotherpartythewholetime,neverlosinganopportunitytoinquireitswhereabouts.
Coronadohadleftawell-provisionedship,theSanGabriel,atAguaiauall,forAlarcontobringalong.Thesesupplieswerefortheuseofthearmywhenthetwopartiesshouldmeetinthenorthfromtimetotime.Alarconaddedthevesseltohisfleetandproceededalongupthecoast,keepingasnearthelandasthewaterwouldpermit,andconstantlyonthelookoutforsignalsfromtheotherparty,orforAmerindswhomightbeabletogiveinformationconcerningthepositionofthegeneral.Thus,atlast,hecametotheveryheadofthegulfwhereUlloahadwonderedattherushofwatersandhadturnedawaywithoutinvestigation."Andwhenwewerecome,"hesays,"totheflatsandshoalsfromwhencetheaforesaidfleetreturned,itseemedtome,astotherest,thatwehadthefirmland
beforeus,andthatthoseshoalsweresoperilousandfearfulthatitwasathingtobeconsideredwhetherwithourskiffswecouldenterinamongthem:andthepilotsandtherestofthecompanywouldhavehadusdoasCaptainUlloadid,andhavereturnedbackagain."ButAlarconwasnotofaretreatingdisposition;thefierceColoradohadnowmetitsfirstconqueror.Itmustberemembered,forUlloa'ssake,thattherewasnotthesameincentiveforhimtoriskhisshipsandthelivesofhismeninanattempttoexaminetheshoalsandcurrentsofthisdangerousplace.AlarconwaslookingforandexpectingtomeetCoronadoatanytime.HeknewthatCoronadowasdependingonthesuppliescarriedbytheSanGabriel,anditwouldhavebeenrankcowardiceonthepartofAlarcontohavebackedoutatthefirstdifficulty.Buthehadnointentionofretiringfromthecontest,for
hesays:
"ButbecauseyourLordshipcommandedmethatIshouldbringyouthesecretofthatgulf,IresolvedthatalthoughIhadknownIshouldhavelosttheships,Iwouldnothaveceasedforanythingtohaveseentheheadthereof,andthereforeIcommandedNicolasZamorano,PilotMajor,andDominicodelCastellothateachofthemshouldtakeaboat,andleadintheirhands,andruninamongthoseshoals,toseeiftheycouldfindoutachannelwherebytheshipsmightenterin;towhomitseemedthattheshipsmightsailuphigher(althoughwithgreattravailanddanger),andinthissortIandhebegantofollowourwaywhichtheyhadtaken,andwithinashortwhileafterwefoundourselvesfastonthesandswithallourthreeships,in
suchsortthatonecouldnothelpanother,neithercouldtheboatssuccourusbecausethecurrentwassogreatthatitwasimpossibleforoneofustocometoanother.WhereuponwewereinsuchgreatjeopardythatthedeckoftheAdmiralwasoftentimesunderwater;andifagreatsurgeoftheseahadnotcomeanddrivenourshiprightupandgaveherleave,asitwere,tobreatheawhile,wehadtherebeendrowned;andlikewisetheothertwoshipsfoundthemselvesinverygreathazard,yetbecausetheywerelesseranddrewlesswatertheirdangerwasnotsogreatasours.NowitpleasedGoduponthereturnofthefloodthattheshipscameonfloat,andsowewentforward.
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Andalthoughthecompanywouldhavereturnedback,yetforallthisIdeterminedtogoforwardandtopursueourattemptedvoyage.Andwepassedforwardwithmuchado,turningourstemsnowthisway,nowthatway,toseekandfindthechannel.AnditpleasedGodthatafterthissortwecametotheverybottomofthebay,wherewefoundaverymightyriver,whichranwithsogreatfuryofastream,thatwecouldhardlysailagainstit."
Here,then,begantheacquaintancebetweentheEuropeanandtherivernowknownastheColoradooftheWest.TheexperienceofAlarconwasimmediatelytypicalofmuchthatwastofollowinthecenturiesofendeavourtoarriveatanintimateknowledgeofthissavagetorrent.
CHAPTERII
TheUnknownRiver--AlarconAscendsitEighty-fiveLeaguesandNamesittheRiodeBuenaGuia--MelchiorDiazArrivesatitsBanksLaterandCallsittheRiodelTizon--CardenasDiscoverstheGrandCanyon.
HavingtriumphedoverthefiercetidalborewhichrendersthemouthoftheColoradodangerous,Alarconsecuredasafeanchorageforhisvesselsandbeganimmediatepreparationsforfollowinguptheriver
intothedistantinterior,bothtogainaknowledgeofitandtoseekforinformationofthepositionofCoronado.Leavingoneofhissmallboatsfortheuseofthosewhoremainedinchargeoftheships,hetooktheothertwo,and,placinginthemsomelightcannon,preparedthemaswellashecouldforanyemergencythatmightbeencountered.Hispartyconsistedoftwentysoldiers,sailors,andhelpers,besideshistreasurer,RodrigoMaldonado,andGaspardeCastilleia,comptroller.Alarconpossessedthequalitiesofasuccessfulexplorer.Hewasboldyetcautious,determinedbutnotreckless,withsafejudgmentandquickadaptability.Hisfirstcommandwasthat,nomatterwhathappenedincaseofmeetingwithnatives,allhiscompanyweretoremainsilentandinactive.Withthiswiseprovision,whichkeptthecontrolinhisownhands,thepartylefttheshipsbehindon
Thursday,August26th*(1540),apparentlythesamedayasthearrival.Thecurrentwassostrongthatthemenwereobligedtotowtheboatsfromthebank,renderingprogressslowanddifficult,butneverthelesstheywereable,beforenightandfatiguecompelledahalt,toadvanceaboutsixleagues.Thoughconstantlyonthelookoutfornativesinthewidebarrenstretchesoflowlandoneachsideoftheriver,nonewereseentillearlynextmorning,when,soonafterstarting,anumberofhutswerediscoveredneartheriverbank.Theoccupantsrushedforthingreatexcitementatthesuddenappearanceofthesesingular-lookingpeopleintheirequallysingularboats,andnowonder!Yearsandtheageshadslippedawayandneveryethadanypeoplebuttheirownkindappearedontheirhorizon.Oppositionwasthenaturalimpulse,andtheysigned
fortheSpaniardstogoback,threateningattack.TheeffectofthisonAlarconwasacommandtoanchortheboatsoutofreachinthemiddleoftheriver,thoughtherapidlyaugmentingnumbersofthepeopleontheshoresooninspiredtheothersoftheexpeditionwithadesiretobeataretreattowardstheships.Alarcon,however,wasnotofthismind.Thenativeswere,ofcourse,armedonlywiththebow-and-arrowandsimilarprimitiveweapons,whiletheSpaniards,thoughfewinnumber,possessedtheadvantageoffirearms,ofwhichthenativeshadnocomprehensionwhatever.Theinterpreter,beinganativefromdownthecoast,understoodnotawordofthislanguage,
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butthepresenceamongthestrangersofoneoftheirownkindsomewhatpacifiedthenatives,andAlarcondidallhecouldbysignstoexpresshispeacefulintentions,throwinghisarmstothebottomoftheboatandputtinghisfootonthem,atthesametimeorderingtheboatstobeplacednearershore.Aftermuchmanoeuvringtheyfinallybroughtaboutsometriflingintercourseandthenproceededuptheriver,thenativesfollowingalongtheshore.RepeatedlytheysignalledfortheSpaniardstoland,butAlarcon,fearfuloftreachery,declined,andspentthenightinthemiddleofthestream.Norwastheappearanceofthenativesreassuring,fortheyhadtheirfaceshideouslypainted,somealloverandothersonlyhalf,whilestillotherscarriedpaintedmasksbeforethem.Intheirnostrilstheyworependants,andtheirearswerepiercedwithholeswhereintheyhungbonesandshells.Theironlyclothingwasasortofgirdlearoundthewaist.
*Hakluytgives"25th,"butitisamisprint,asthisThursdayin1540wasthe26th.
Gradually,intercourseincreased,andpresentsoftrinketsseemedtoinclineallthenativesinAlarcon'sfavour.Atlengthhediscoveredthattheyreverencedthesun,andwithoutcompunctionheproclaimedthathecamefromthatorb.Thisdeceptionservedhimwell.
Henceforthnoservicewastoogreatforthenativestoperformforthesesacredbeings.Everythingwasplacedattheirdisposal.Alarcon'swordwastheirlaw.Theyrelievedthemenentirelyofthewearisometaskoftowingtheboats,strivingwitheachotherfortheprivilege.WithoutthishelpitwouldhavebeenimpossibleforAlarcontohaveproceededfaruptheriver,andhefullyappreciatedthis,thoughthechiefrewardbestowedonthehelpersandallthenativeswascrossesmadeofsticksandofpaper.These,heinformedthembysigns,wereprecious,andhedistributedtheminlargenumbers.Themorningafterheproclaimedhimselfascomingfromthesun,manyswamouttowheretheboatwasanchored,contendingfortheprivilegeofsecuringtheropewithwhichtheboatwastowed."Andwegaveittothem,"saysAlarcon,"withagoodwill,thankingGodfor
thegoodprovisionwhichHegaveustogouptheriver."
Theinterpreterfrequentlyaddressedthenativesashewentforward,andatlast,onTuesdaynight,amanwasdiscoveredwhounderstoodhim.Thismanwastakenintotheboat,andAlarcon,alwaystruehistrust,askedhimwhetherhehadseenorheardofanypeopleinthecountrylikehimself,hopingtosecuresomecluetoCoronado."Heansweredmeno,sayingthathehadsometimeheardofoldmenthatveryfarfromthatcountry,therewereotherwhitemen,andwithbeardslikeus,andthatheknewnothingelse.IaskedhimalsowhetherheknewaplacecalledCibolaandarivercalledTotonteac,andheansweredmeno."
CoronadomeanwhilehadarrivedatCibolaonJuly7th(or10th)andhadthereforebeenamongthevillagesoftheRioGrandedelNortenearlytwomonths.TheroutetothesetownsfromthelowerColorado,thatis,bythegreatintertribalhighwayofsouthernArizona,followedtheGilaRiver,destinedafterwardstobetraversedbythewanderingtrappers,bythewearygold-seekerboundforCalifornia,andfinally,foraconsiderabledistance,bythesteamlocomotive.ButitwasanunknownquantityatthetimeofAlarcon'svisit,sofaraswhitemenwereconcerned.Fartherup,Alarconmetwithanothermanwhounderstoodhisinterpreter,andthismansaidhehadbeento
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Cibola,orCevola,*asAlarconwritesit,andthatitwasamonth'sjourney,"byapaththatwentalongthatriver."AlarconmustnowhavebeenaboutatthemouthoftheGila,andtheriverreferredtowas,ofcourse,theGila.ThismandescribedthetownsofCibolaasallwhohadseenthemdescribedthem;thatis,largetownsofthree-orfour-storeyhouses,withwindowsonthesides,**andencompassedbywallssomesevenoreightfeetinheight.ThepueblosoftheRioGrandevalleywerewellknownineverydirectionandforlongdistances.TheApaches,harassingthevillagersoneveryside,andhavingthemselvesawiderange,alonecarriedtheknowledgeofthemtothefourwinds.Ineverytribe,too,thereareborntravellerswhoconstantlyvisitdistantregions,bringingbackdetaileddescriptionsoftheiradventuresandthesightsbeheld,withwhichtoregaleanadmiringcrowdduringthewinterevenings.Theirdescriptionsareusuallyfairlyaccuratefromthestandpointoftheirownunderstanding.InthiscasethenativegaveagooddescriptionoftheCibolatowns,andtheTusayanpeoplehadmeanwhilegivenCardenasadescriptionoftheseverynativesonthelowerColorado.AdayortwolaterAlarconreceivedfurtherinformationofCibola,andthisinformanttoldaboutachiefwhohadfourgreenearthenplateslikeAlarcon's,exceptincolor,andalsoadoglikeAlarcon's,aswellasotherthings,whichablackmanhadbroughtintothecountry.ThisblackmanwasEstevan,whohadbeenkilledaboutayearbefore.Thenewsofthismanandhisexecutionhadtravelledrapidly,showing
frequentintercoursewiththepueblosbeyondthemountains.StillfartheronhemetanothermanwhohadbeenatCibola,andwhoalsotoldhimofagreatriverinwhichtherewerecrocodiles.ThiswastheMississippi,ofcourse,andthecrocodileswerealligators.AsAlarconhadneverseenanalligatorhetookthedescriptiontomeancrocodile.AlittlefartherandheheardofthenegroEstevanagainandthereasonwhytheCibolanshadkilledhim,whichwastopreventtheSpaniards,whomhedescribed,fromfindingtheirwayintotheCibolacountry.Thismanalsodescribedthebisonandapeoplewholivedinpaintedtentsinsummerandinwinterinhousesofwoodtwoorthreestoreyshigh.Andthustheexpeditioncontinueduptheriver,inquiringastheywentonallsubjects.OnSeptember6ththeoldmanwhohadbeenaparticularfriendandinterpreterwascalled
onshorebythenatives,andtherewasimmediatelyananimateddiscussionwhichAlarcondiscoveredrelatedtohimself.InformationhadcomefromCibolathatthereweretheremenliketheseSpaniardswhosaidtheywereChristians.Thesehadbeenwarlike,anditwasproposedtokillallofAlarcon'spartytopreventtheothersfromgainingaknowledgeofthiscountry.ButtheoldmandeclaredAlarcontobethesonofthesunandtookhispart.FinallyitwasdecidedtoaskhimwhetherhewereaChristianorthesonofthesun.AlarconpretendedgreatwonderatmenlikehimselfbeingatCibola,buttheyassuredhimitwastrue,astwomenwhohadcomefromtherereportedthattheyhadbeardsandgunsandswordsjustthesame.Alarconstillinsistedthathewasthesonofthesun.TheysaidthemenatCibolasaidthesame,towhichAlarconrepliedthatitmightwellbe,andif
sotheyneedhavenofear,forthesonsofthesunwouldbehisbrothersandwouldtreatthemashehaddone.Thisseemedtopacifythem.HeinquirednowhowfaritwastoCibola,andtheyansweredtendaysthroughanuninhabitedcountry,withnoaccountoftherestofthewaybecauseitwasinhabited.
*TheoldSpaniardsused"v"and"b"interchangeably,sothatCibolaandCevolawouldbepronouncedthesame.Otherletterswereusedinthesamelooseway.
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**Windowsonthesidesofthehouses,NOToftheWALLS,asonewriterhasputit.ThevillagesofthelowerpartofNewMexicohadthesewallsofcircumvallation,buttothenorthwardsuchwallsappeartohavebeenrare.
AlarconwasnowmorethaneverdesirousofinformingCoronadoofhiswhereabouts,andtriedtopersuadesomeofhismentogotoCibolawithamessage,promisingfinerewards.Onlyone,anegroslave,andhewithreluctance,offeredtoattemptthejourney.Alarcontriedtogettheoldmantogivehimguidesandprovisions,butwithoutsuccess,astheoldmanseemedtodesiretoinduceAlarcontohelpthemfighttheirbattleswiththeCumanas,saying,ifhewouldendthiswar,hecouldhavetheircompanytoCibola.Alarconwasdeterminedtogo,andsentamanbacktotheshipstoinformthosethereofhispurpose,buthechangedhismindsoonafter,concludingtogototheshipshimselfandreturn,leavingtherehissick,andrearranginghiscompany.Themanwhohadbeensenttotheshipsoverlandwasovertakenandbroughtbackbythenatives,butwasobligedtoremainwiththemtillAlarconcameupagain.Thedescentfromherewasmadeintwoandahalfdays,thoughithadtakenfifteentocomeup.Arrivingattheshipsallwasfoundtohavegonewellexceptafewminoraccidents,and,directingrepairstobemade,Alarconturnedaboutandstartedup-riveroncemore,firstcalling
thewholecompanytogether,tellingthemwhathehadlearnedofCibola,andthat,asCoronadomightnowhavebeeninformedbynativesofhispresence,hehopedtofindmeansofreachinghim.Therewasmuchobjectiontothisplan,butheproceededtocarryitout,takingallthreeboatsthistime,loadedwith"waresofexchange,withcornandotherseeds,withhensandcocksofCastile."ThisregionhecalledtheProvinceofCampannadelaCruz,andheleftordersforthebuildingofanoratoryorchapeltobenamedtheChapelofOurLadydelaBuenaGuia.TheriverhecalledtheRiodeBuenaGuia(goodguidance)fromthemottoontheviceroyMendoza'scoatofarms.ItwasTuesday,the14thofSeptember,whenhestarted,takingwithhimNicolasZamorano,chiefpilot,torecordthelatitudes.HesoonarrivedagainamongtheQuicomas,*andthenamongtheCoamas,where
hefoundhismanwhohadbeenleftbehindonthefirsttrip.Thismanhadbeensowelltreatedthathewasentirelycontenttoremaintillthepartyshouldcomebackdowntheriver.Thiswasthehighestpointreachedonthefirstvisit.Everywherethepeopleweretreasuringthecrosseswhichhadbeengiventhem,kneelingbeforethematsunrise.Alarconkeptonuptherivertillhe"enteredbetweencertainveryhighmountains,throughwhichthisriverpassethwithastraightchannel,andtheboatswentupagainstthestreamveryhardlyforwantofmentodrawthesame."FromthisitmaybeinferredthattheCoamasdidnotstrivewitheachotherfortheprivilegeoftowingtheboatsofthesechildrenofthesunasthosebelowhaddone.NowanenchanterfromtheCumanastriedtodestroythepartybysettingmagicreedsinthewateronbothsides,butthespellfailedandthe
explorerswentontothehomeoftheoldmanwhohadbeensogoodafriendandguidetothem.Atthis,Alarcon'sfarthestpoint,hecausedaveryhighcrosstobeerected,onwhichwordswerecarvedtotheeffectthathehadreachedtheplace,sothatifCoronado'smenchancedtocomethatwaytheymightseeit.Nothingissaidaboutburyingletters,yetDiazlatermentionsfindinglettersburiedatthefootofatree,apparentlynearerthesea.Decidingthathecouldnotatthistimeaccomplishhispurposeofopeningcommunicationwiththearmy,Alarconconcludedtoreturntotheships,butwiththeintentionoftryingoncemore.Theseconddayafterstartingdownhe
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arrivedattheplacewheretheSpaniardhadremained.Hetoldhimthathehadgone"abovethirtyleaguesintothecountry"beyond.Ithadtakenhim,before,twoandahalfdaystoreachtherivermouthfromhere,sothatitseemshewasaboutfourdaysgoingdownfromhisfarthestpoint.Roughlyestimatinghisprogressatsixmilesanhourfortwelvehoursaday,infourdaysthedistancecoveredwouldbeabout288miles.Hesayshewentupeighty-fiveleagues(thiswouldbefifty-fivethefirsttimeandthirtymorethesecond),which,countinginMexicanleaguesoftwoandthreequartermileseach,givesadistanceof2333/4miles,oraboutonehundredmilesabovethemouthoftheGila.Thisstreamhedoesnotmention.Hemayhavetakenitforamerebayou,butitappearstobecertainthathepassedbeyondit.HesaysUlloawasmistakenbytwodegreesastohisnorthernmostpoint,andthathesailedfourdegreesbeyondhim.ThemeaningofthismaybethathewentfourdegreesbeyondUlloa'sfalsereckoning,oractuallytwodegreesabovetheshoalswhereUlloaturnedback.Thiswouldtakehimtothe34thparallel,andwouldcoincidewithhiseighty-fiveleagues,andalsowiththepositionofthefirstmountainsmetwithingoinguptheriver,theChocolaterange.Alarconwasnotsoinexperiencedthathewouldhaverepresentedeighty-fiveleaguesonthecourseoftheriverasequallingfourdegreesoflatitude.Hadhegonetothe36thdegreehewouldhavepassedthroughBlackCanyon,andthisissoextraordinaryafeaturethathecouldnothavefailedtonoteitspecially.When
Alarconarrivedattheshipsagain,heevidentlyhadstrongreasonforabandoninghisintentionofreturningforanotherattempttocommunicatewithCoronado,andhesetsailforhome.Anotherdocumentsaysthetorredowasdestroyingtheships,andthisisveryprobable.Hecoasteddownthegulf,landingfrequently,andgoinglongdistancesintotheinteriorsearchingfornewsofCoronado,buthelearnednothingbeyondwhatheheardontheriver.
*ThetribesandbandsspokenofbyAlarconcannotbeidentified,buttheseQuicomas,orQuicamas,weredoubtlessthesameastheQuiquimasmentionedbyKino,1701,andGarces,1775.TheywereprobablyofYumanstock.TheCumanaswerepossiblyMohaves.
Whilehewasstrivingtofindawayofreachingthemainbodyoftheexpedition,whichduringthistimewascomplacentlyrobbingthePuebloansontheRioGrande,twoofficersofthatexpeditionweremarchingthroughthewildernessendeavouringtofindhim,andathirdwastravellingtowardtheGrandCanyon.OneofthesewasDonRodrigoMaldonado,thusbearingexactlythesamenameasoneofAlarcon'sofficers;anotherwasCaptainMelchiorDiaz,andthethirdDonLopezdeCardenas,whodistinguishedhimselfontheRioGrandebyparticularbrutalitytowardthevillagers.DonRodrigowentinsearchoftheshipsdowntherivertothecoastfromthevalleyofCorazones,butobtainednoinformationofthem,thoughhemetwithgiantnativesandbroughtbackwithhimoneverytallmanasa
specimen.ThemainarmyofCoronadohadnotyetgonefromthisvalleyofCorazones,wherethesettlementcalledSanHieronimohadbeenestablished,andthebestmaninitreachedonlytothechestofthisnativegiant.
Thearmymovedontoanothervalley,whereahaltwasmadetoawaitordersfromthegeneral.Atlength,aboutthemiddleofSeptember,MelchiorDiazcamebackfromCibola,withdispatches,accompaniedbyJuanGallegos,whoboreamessagefortheviceroy.IntheircompanyalsowasthemiserableFriarMarcos,pursuinghisdismalreturnto
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NewSpainbydirectionofthegeneral,whoconsidereditunsafeforhimtoremainwiththearmynowthatthegloriousbubbleofhisimaginationhadbeenexploded.MelchiorDiazwasanexcellentofficer,andalreadyhadanexperienceinthisnorthernregionextendingoversomefouryears.Itwashe,also,whohadbeensent,thepreviousNovember,asfarastheplacecalledChichilticalli,inanattempttoverifythefriar'stale,andhadreportedthatthenativesweregoodfornothingexcepttomakeintoChristians.Themainarmy,whichwasincommandofDonTristandeArellano,inaccordancewiththeordersreceivedfromCoronado,nowadvancedtowardCibola.Maldonado,whohadbeentothecoast,wentwithit.Diazretainedeightymen,partofwhomweretodefendthesettlementofSanHieronimo,andtwenty-fiveweretoaccompanyhimonhisexpeditioninsearchofAlarcon.Hestartednorthandthenwentwest,followingnativeguidesfor150leagues(4121/2miles)inall,andatlengthreachedacountryinhabitedbygiantnativeswho,inordertokeepwarminthechillautumnair,carriedaboutwiththemafirebrand.Fromthiscircumstance,DiazcalledthelargeriverhefoundheretheRiodelTizon.ThiswastheBuenaGuiaofAlarcon.Thenativeswereprodigiouslystrong,onemanbeingabletoliftandcarrywitheaseonhisheadaheavylogwhichsixofthesoldierscouldnottransporttothecamp.HereDiazheardthatboatshadcomeuptherivertoapointthreedays'journeybelow,andhewenttheretofindoutaboutit,doubtlessexpectingtogetonthetrackof
Alarcon.Butthelatterhaddepartedfromthemouthoftheriveratleasttwoorthreeweeksbefore;onewritersaystwomonths.*ThesamewriterstatesthatDiazreachedtheriverthirtyleaguesabovethemouth,andthatAlarconwentasfaragainabove.ThiscoincidesverywellwithAlarcon'sestimateofeighty-fiveleagues,forDiazdidnotfollowthewindingsofthestreamasAlarconwasforcedtodowithhisboats.Attheplacedowntheriver,Diazfoundatreebearinganinscription:"Alarconreachedthispoint;therearelettersatthefootofthistree."Alarcondoesnot,asbeforenoted,mentionburyingletters,andthesewerefoundatthefootofatree,sothatDiazevidentlyfailedtoreachthecrosserectedatAlarcon'shighestpoint.
*RelaciondelSuceso.AlarconmusthavereachedhishighestpointaboutOctober5thor6th,andtheshipsonthereturnaboutthe10th.DiazprobablyarrivedattheriveraboutNovember1st.
Diaznowproceededuptheriveragain,lookingforaplacewherehecouldsafelycrosstoexplorethecountryontheoppositeside.Afterascendingfromthespotwherehefoundthelettersforfiveorsixdays,heconcludedtheycouldcrossbymeansofrafts.Intheconstructionoftheseraftsheinvitedthehelpofthenativesoftheneighbourhood.HewasprobablyupneartheChocolateMountainsandtheCumanas,whowerehostiletoAlarcon,andwhosesorcererhadattemptedtodestroyhimbymeansofthemagicreeds.Theyhadbeen
merelywaitingforanopportunitytoattackDiaz,andtheyperceivedtheirchanceinthisassistanceincrossingtheriver.Theyreadilyagreedtohelpmaketherafts,andeventoassistinthecrossing.Butwhiletheworkwasinprogressasoldierwhohadgoneoutfromthecampwassurprisedtoobservealargenumberofthemstealingofftoamountainontheotherside.Whenhereportedthis,Diazcausedoneofthenativestobesecured,withouttheothersbeingawareofit.HewastorturedtillheconfessedthattheplanwastobegintheattackwhensomeoftheSpaniardswereacrosstheriver,someinthewater,andtheothersonthenearbank.Thusseparatedtheybelieved
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CoronadoproceededeastwardtoaboutthewesternlineofMissouri,and,findingcolonisationanywhereintheregionsvisitedoutofthequestion,hereturnedin1542toMexico,withhisentirearmyexceptingacoupleofpadres.
CHAPTERIII
TheGrandCanyon--CharacteroftheColoradoRiver--TheWater-Gods;ErosionandCorrosion--TheNativesandtheirHighways--The"GreenRiverValley"oftheOldTrappers--TheStrangeVegetationandSomeSingularAnimals.
ThestupendouschasmknownastheGrandCanyon,discoveredbyCardenasintheautumnof1540,isthemostremarkablefeatureofthisextraordinaryriver,andatthesametimeisoneofthemarvelsoftheworld.Thoughdiscoveredsolongagothatwemakefriendswiththeconquistadoreswhenweapproachitshistory,itremained,withtheothercanyonsoftheriver,aproblemfor329yearsthereafter,thatis,till1869.Discoverydoesnotmeanknowledge,andknowledgedoesnotmeanpublicity.Inthecaseofthisgorge,withitsimmenselengthandcountlesstributarychasms,theviewCardenasobtainedwas
akintoadog'sdiscoveryofthemoon.Ithaspracticallybeenseveraltimesre-discovered.Indeed,eachpersonwhofirstlooksintotheabysshasasensationofbeingadiscoverer,forthesceneissoweirdandlonelyandsoincomprehensibleinitsnoveltythatonefeelsthatitcouldneverhavebeenviewedbefore.AnditISratheradiscoveryforeachindividual,becausenoamountofverbalorpictorialdescriptioncaneverfullypreparethespectatorfor,thesublimereality.Evenwhenonebecomesfamiliarwiththeincomparablespectacleitneverceasestoastonish.Arecentwriterhaswellsaid:"ThesublimityofthePyramidsisendurable,butattherimoftheGrandCanyonwefeeloutdone."*Outdoneisexactlytherightword.Nowhereelsecanman'sinsignificancebesoburnedintohissoulashere,wherehisingenuityandpowercountfornaught.
*HarrietMonroe,AtlanticMonthly,June,1902.
Cardenas,afterall,wasonlyoneofthediscoverers.HewasmerelythefirstWHITEmanwhosawit.WhenwasitthatthefirstMANrecoiledfromtheedgeofthatthenactuallyunknownmasterpieceoftheWater-gods,whosopersistentlypliedtheirtoolsintheforgottenages?Hewastherealdiscovererandhewillneverbeknown.Asappliedtonewcountries--newtoourrace--theterm"unknown"isrelative.Eachfreshexplorerconsidershisthedeedthatshallpermanentlyberecorded,nomatterwhohasgonebefore,andthePattiesandtheJedediahSmithsareforgotten.Intheselater
yearssomewhohavedaredtheterrorsofthemercilessriverintheGrandCanyonspokeofitasthe"GreatUnknown,"forgettingthedeedofPowell;andwhenLieutenantWheelerlaboriouslysucceededindragginghisboatsuptothemouthofDiamondCreek,hesaid:"NOWtheexplorationiscompleted."HEforgotthedeedofPowell.Arecentwritermentionsthenorth-westerncornerofArizonaasa"mysteriouswilderness."*Heforgotthatitwasthoroughlyexploredyearsago.Wildernessitmaybe,ifthatmeanssparselysettled,butmysterious?--no.Itisallknownandonrecord.
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*RayStannardBaker,CenturyMagazine,May,1902.
TheGrandCanyonmaybelikenedtoaninvertedmountainrange.Imagineagreatmountainchaincastupsidedowninplaster.Thenalltheformerridgesandspursoftherangebecometributarycanyonsandgulchesrunningbacktwentyorthirtymilesintothesurroundingcountry,growingshallowerandshallowerasthedistanceincreasesfromthecentralcore,justasthegreatspursandridgesofamountainrange,descending,meltfinallyintotheplain.Oftentherearepartswherethecentralgorgeisnarrowandprecipitous,justasamountainrangefrequentlypossessesmightyprecipices.Butitisanerrortothinkofgreatcanyonsasmereslitsintheground,darkandgloomy,likeadeepwellfromwhosedepthsstarsmaybesightedatmidday.Minorcanyonssometimesapproachthischaracter,as,forexample,thecanyonoftheupperVirgen,calledParunuweap,fifteenhundredfeetdeepandnomorethantwentytothirtyfeetwide,withverticalwalls,butIhaveneverbeeninacanyonfromwhichstarswerevisibleindaylight,norhaveIeverknownanyonewhohad.Thelightisaboutthesameasthatatthebottomofanarrowstreetflankedbyveryhighbuildings.Thewallsmaysometimesbegloomyfromtheircolour,ormayseemsofromthecircumstancesunderwhichoneviewsthem,butasidefromthefactthatanydeep,shut-invalleyorcanyonmaybecomeoppressive,thereisnothingspeciallygloomy
aboutadeepcanyon.Thesunusuallyfallsmoreorlessineverycanyon,nomatterhownarrowordeep.Itmayfalltotheverybottommostoftheday,oronlyforanhourortwo,dependingonthetrendofthecanyonwithreferencetothesun'scourse.AtthebottomoftheKanabwhereitjoinstheGrand,thesunlightinNovemberremainsinthebottomjusttwohours,butoutsideinthemaingorgethetimeisverymuchlonger.
Thewallsofagreatcanyon,andusuallyasmallone,areterraced;seldomaretheywhollyverticalfortheirentireheight,thoughoccasionallytheymayapproachthisconditionononesideortheother,andmorerarelyonbothsidesatonce,dependingonthegeologicalformationsofthelocality.Owingtotheimmenseheightof
thewallsofsuchcanyonsasthoseontheColorado,thecliffsfrequentlyappearperpendicularwhentheyarefarfromit,justasamountainpeakoftenseemstotoweroverone'sheadwheninrealityitmaybeaconsiderabledistanceoff.Inthenatureoftheformationanddevelopmentofcanyons,theycouldnotlongretaincontinuousverticalwalls.WhatPowellcallsthe"recessionofcliffs"comesintoplay.Theerosiveandcorrasivepowerofwaterbeingthechieflandsculptors,itisevidentthattherewillbeacontinualwearingdownofthefacesoftheboundingcliffs.Thesofterbedswillbecutawayfasterthantheharder,andwheretheseunderlietheharderthelatterwillbeunderminedandfall.Everycanyonisalwayswideningatitstopandsides,throughtheactionofrain,frost,andwind,aswellasdeepeningthroughtheactionofitsflowingstream.EROSION
isthispowerwhichcarvesawaythecliffs,andCORRASIONtheonewhichsawsatthebottom,thelatterterm,ingeologicalnomenclature,meaningthecuttingpowerofrunningwater.*Thiscuttingpowervariesaccordingtothedeclivityandtheamountofsedimentcarriedinsuspension.Itisplainthatastreamhavinggreatdeclivitywillbeabletocarrymoresedimentthanonehavinglittle,andinabarrencountrywouldalwaysbehighlychargedwithsand,whichwouldcutandscourthebedofthechannellikeagrindstone.AsDuttonsays,arivercuts,however,onlyitsownwidth,therestofacanyonbeingthe"workoftheforcesoferosion,
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thewind,frost,andrain.Thatiswhywehavecanyons.Thepowersoferosionarefarslowerthanthoseofcorrasion,especiallyinanaridregion,becausetheyareintermittent.Whererockstakeapolish,asinMarbleCanyon,thescouringandpolishingworkofcorrasionisseenintheshiningbrightsurfaceasfarasthewaterrises.ThisallbelongstotheromanceoftheWater-gods,thosemarvellouslandsculptors.
*Theintroductionofthissubjectmayseemunnecessarytothegeneralreader,butnojustcomprehensionofthisrivercanbereachedwithoutsomeknowledgeoftheforcescreatingitschasms.
ToproducecanyonslikethoseoftheColorado,peculiarandunusualconditionsarenecessary.Theremustexistavastregionlyinghighabovesea-level.Thisregionmustbearid.Outofitmustriseseparatedmountainmassestosuchheightsthattheyshallbewellwatered.Thesemostelevatedregionsalonehavingabundantrain-andsnowfall,torrentialstreamsaregeneratedandpoureddownuponthearidwastes,wheretheypersistentlyscourtheirbeds,ploughingdeepchannelsbelowtheleveloftheirsurroundings.Theperpendicularityofthewallsofthesechannels,orcanyonsastheyarecalled,dependsonthevolumeandcontinuityoftheflowingstream,onthearidityofthecountrythroughwhichtheyarecut,andonthe
rock-formation.Afierceandcontinuoustorrent,wheretherainfallisattheminimum,willsospeedilyoutrivaltheforcesoferosionthatthecanyonwillhaveverticalwalls.Anexampleisseeninthosefrequent"mud"canyonsfoundinaridregions,wheresomebrook,havingitssourceinhighlands,cutsachannelthroughclayordryearthwithverticalsides,thatstandforyears.Aslongasthesurfaceoftheadjacentlandsisundisturbed,itactslikearoof,throwingoffthewaterthatfallsuponitintothemainstream.*ThusthefoundationsofthesewallsarenotassailedfromBEHIND,whichistheirweakestpoint.Ifthelandsurfaceisbrokenup,permittingtherainstosoakinandsaturatetheclayorearth,thewholemassbecomessoftenedandwillspeedilyfallandslideoutintothecanyon.**Thesidesofallcanyonsinanaridregionaremoreorless
protectedinthesameway.Thatis,therainsfallsuddenly,rarelycontinuouslyforanylengthoftime,andarecollectedandconductedawayimmediately,nothavingachancetoentertheground.Homogeneoussandstonepreservesitsperpendicularitybetterthanotherrocks,onereasonbeingthatitdoesnotinvitepercolation,andusuallyoffers,foraconsiderabledistanceoneachsideofthecanyon,barrenandimpervioussurfacestotherains.Wherestratarestonexposedsofterbeds,theseareunderminedfromthefront,andinthiswayrecessionisbroughtabout.
*Justaswheatflourgettingwetonthesurfaceprotectstheportionbelowfromdampness.Therainfallisoftensoslight,also,thatasurfaceisunchangedforyears.Ioncesawsomewagontracksthat
weremadebyourpartythreeyearsbefore.FrompeculiarcircumstancesIwasabletoidentifythem.
**RobertBrewsterStantonexplainedthisveryclearlyinhisinvestigationsfortheCanadianPacificRailwayintothecausesofland-slidesonthatline.
InthebasinoftheColoradoarefoundinperfectionalltheextraordinaryconditionsthatareneededtobringforthmammoth
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canyons.TheheadwatersofalltheimportanttributariesareINVARIABLYINTHEHIGHESTREGIONSandatalongdistancefromtheirmouths,sothatthefloodwatershavemanymilesofopportunitytorunaracewiththecomparativelyfeebleerosiveforcesofdesertlands.Themainstream-coursesarethusintheloweraridregionsandinsedimentaryformations,whiletheirwater-supplycomesfromfaraway.Thedeepestgorges,therefore,willbefoundwheretherainfallisleast,unlessdiminishingaltitudeinterferes.Thusthegreatestgorgeofthewholebasin,theGrandCanyon,istheonefarthestfromthesourcesofsupply,andinthedriestarea,butone,ofthewholedrainagesystem.Itendsabruptlywiththeterminationofthehigharidplateauwhichmadeitpossible,buthadthisplateauextendedfarther,theGrandCanyonwouldalsohaveextendedasimilardistance.Itisplainthenthatthecuttingofthesecanyonsdependsontheamountofwater(snowisincluded)whichmayfallinthehighmountains,thecanyonsthemselvesbeinginthedrierdistricts.Itisalsoclearthatif,bysomechance,theprecipitationofthehighsourcesshouldincrease,thecorrasionofthestream-bedsinthecanyonswouldlikewiseincreaseandoutrunwithstillgreatereasetheerosionoftheirimmediatesurroundings.Ontheotherhand,iftheprecipitationinthearidsurroundingsshouldincrease,thewearingdownofthesidewallswouldforatime--tillcoveredbydebrisandvegetation--goonmorerapidlytill,insteadofCanyonsoftheColoradoRivertype,therewouldbedeep,sharpvalleys,orwide
valleys,accordingtotheamountofdifferencebetweentheprecipitationofthelowlandsandthehigh.Wherethetwowerenearlythesame,thatis,abalanceofprecipitation,*theslopesmightberoundedandverdure-clad,thoughthiswoulddependontheAMOUNTofprecipitation.OnlowerSnakeRiverachangeseemstobegoingon.Theformercanyon-cliffsarecoveredbydebrisandvegetation,butinplacestheolddrycliff-linescanbediscernedbeneathlikeaskeleton.Theprecipitationtherehasnotbeengreatenoughtodestroytheoldlines--onlyenoughtomaskthem.
*Therecouldbeabalanceofprecipitationandstillverylittlesnow-orrainfall,ortheymightbeverygreat.
The"innergorge"oftheGrandCanyonappearstohavebeencutfarmorerapidlythantheouterone,andatamuchlaterperiod;werethisnotthecasetherewouldbenoinnergorge.Itisasingularfactthatsomesidecanyons,theKanab,forexample,whilenowpossessingnorunningwater,oratbestapunyrivulet,anddependingfortheircorrasiononintermittentfloods,meetonequaltermsthegreatColorado,thegiantthatneverforasecondceasesitsferociousattack.AdmittingthatthesharperdeclivityoftheKanabwouldenhanceitspowerofcorrasion,neverthelessweshouldexpecttoseeitapproachtheGrandCanyonbyleapsandbounds,liketheHavasupaifartherdown,but,onthecontrary,therearepartsthatappeartobeatastandstillincorrasion,orevenfillingup,and
itsfloorisaregulardescent,exceptforthelastthreeorfourmileswherethecanyoniscloggedbyhugerocksthatseemtohavefallenfromabove.Themaximumheightofitspresentflood-watersisaboutsixfeet,provedbyafern-coveredcalcareousdeposit,projectingsomefifteenfeet,causedbyaspring(Shower-BathSpring)onthesideofthewall,sevenoreightmilesabovethemouth,whichisneverpermittedbythefloodstobuildnearerthefloorofthecanyon.Asuspicionarises,oncontemplatingsomeoftheseapparentdiscrepancies,thattheprevailingconditionsofcorrasionarenotwhattheywereatsomeearlierperiod,whentheyweresuchthatit
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wasrenderedmorerapidandviolent;thattherewasperhapsanepochwhenthesedeep-cuttributarycanyonscarriedperennialstreams,andwhenthevolumeoftheColoradoitselfwasmanytimesgreater,possessingamultipliedcorrasivepower,whiletheadjacentareaswereaboutasaridasnow.Atsuchatime,perhaps,theColoradoperformedthemainworkoftheinnergorge,theKanab,andsimilaraffluents,theirdeepnowratherevenlygradedcanyons.Suchanincreaseofvolume,ifwesupposetheariditytoremainasnow,couldhavecomeaboutonlybyanincreaseofprecipitationonthemountainsummits.DuringtheGlacialEpoch,theRockyMountainsummitswereconsiderablyglaciated,theamountvaryingaccordingtoaltitudeandlatitude.ThegeneraltopographyoftheColoradoRiverwasaboutasitisto-day,andtherainfallinthevalleysprobablynearlythesame,oratleastonlyalittlegreater.Inotherwords,theconditionswerethoseofto-dayintensified.Insummer,then,theamountofwaterseekingoutletbythesedrainagechannelstotheseawasenormouslymultiplied,andthecorrasivepowerwascorrespondinglyaugmented.Whentheicecapsfinallybegantopermanentlydiminish,thesummerfloodsweredoubtlessterrific.ThewatersoftheColoradonowriseintheGrandCanyon,onthemeltingofthesnowsinthedistantmountains,fromfortytoonehundredfeet;therisemustthenhaveamountedtofromonehundredtofourhundredormore.TheKanabheadsintwoveryhighregions--thePinkCliffsandtheKaibab.Thoughprobablynothighenoughtobeheavily
glaciatedtheywerehighenoughtoreceiveanincreasedsnowfallandtoholdit,oraportionofit,overfromoneyeartoanother.Thusthecanyonshavingtheiroriginonthesehighregionswouldbegivenperennialstreams,withtorrentialfloodseachsummer,comparedwithwhichanythingthatnowcomesdowntheKanabwouldbeamererivulet.ThesummitoftheKaibabiscoveredwithpeculiarpocket-likebasinshavingnoapparentoutlets.Thesewerepossiblyglacialsinks,conductingawaysomeofthesurpluswaterfromthemeltingsnowandicebysubterraneanchannels.Itseemsprobable,therefore,thatglacialflood-waterswereanimportantfactorintheformationofthecanyonsoftheColorado.Ifthissuppositioniscorrectitwouldaccount,atleastinameasure,forthatdistinctimpressionofarrestedactivityonereceivesfromthepresentconditionsobtaining
there.*
*Somecanyonfloors,wherethereisnopermanentlargestream,appeartohavealtogetherceaseddescending.DuttonsaysofthosewhichdraintheTerracePlateaus:"Manyofthemareactuallyfillingup,thefloodsbeingunabletocarryawayallthesandandclaywhichtheinfrequentrainswashintothem."--TertiaryHistory,p.50.Seealsopp.196and228Ib.
Thedrainageattheedgesofmostcanyonsisbackandawayfromthegorgeitself.Thereasonisthattherainscannotflowevenlyoveracanyonbrink,owingtoirregularitiesofsurface,andoncean
irregulardrainageisestablished,thewaterseekstheeasiestroad.Asidecanyonisformed,drainingacertainarea.Anotherisformedelsewhere,andanother,andsoontillalldrainageisthroughthesetributariesandawayfromthebrink,bymoreorlesscircuitouschannelstothemainstream.Thisbackwarddrainageleavestheimmediatebrink,or"rim,"tillthelast,initsworkoferosionandcorrasion,andtherimconsequentlyislefthigherthantheregionawayfromit.ThiseffectofabackwarddrainageisveryplainonbothsidesoftheGrandCanyon,thoughitissomewhatassisted,onthenorthatleast,bythebackwarddipofthestrata.Itmaybe
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modifiedbyotherconditions,sothatitwouldnotalwaysbethecase.
ThebasinoftheColorado,exceptingthatpartbelowthemouthoftheVirgenandaportionamongthe"parks"ofthewesternslopeoftheRockyMountainrange,isalmostentirelyaplateauregion.Someoftheplateausareverydry;othersriseabovethearidzoneandarewellwatered.Thelatterarecalledthe"HighPlateaus."Theyreachanaltitudeofeleventhousandfeetabovethesea.TheyareeastoftheGreatBasin,andwiththeotherplateausformanareacalledbyPowell"ThePlateauProvince."Eastwardstilltheplateausmergeintothe"parks."TheHighPlateaus,asatopographicalfeature,areasoutherncontinuationoftheWasatchMountains.TheyterminateonthesouthintheMarkagunt,thePaunsagunt,andtheAquariusPlateaus.TheextremesouthernextremitiesofthetwoformerarecomposedofmightyprecipicesofcolumnarlyerodedlimestonecalledthePinkCliffs.HereisthebeginningoftheTerracePlateaus,likewiseboundedbyvertical,barrencliffs.BetweentheHighPlateausandtheparks,theplateausmaybecalled,forconvenience,MesaPlateaus,astheyaregenerallyoutlinedbyverticalcliffs.ThisisthecasealsosouthoftheendoftheHighPlateauswhere,steppingdownthegreatterraces,wearriveattheregionimmediatelyadjacenttotheGrandCanyon,composedoffourplateaus,threeofthemofmesacharacter,theShewits,Uinkaret,Kanab,andKaibab;andupattheheadofMarbleCanyonafifth,theParia,whilestillfarthertothe
north-eastwardistheKaiparowitz.TheedgesoftheseMesaPlateaus,precipitouscliffs,stretchformanymilesacrossthearidlandlikemountainrangessplitasunder.Thisregion,lyingbetweentheHighPlateaus,theGrandWash,theHenryMountains,andtheColorado,isperhapsthemostfascinatingofallthebasin.Thereliefmapatpage41givesthelargerpartofit.Inthebasintherearealsogreatmountainmasses,thefountainheadsofthewaterswhichhavecarvedthecanyons.TheseareUinta,Zuni,SanFrancisco,Henry,PineValley,Uinkaret,BeaverDam,Virgen,Navajo,LaSal,andothers,somereachinganaltitudeofmorethantwelvethousandfeet.Thehighestpeaksofthese,andofcoursethoseoftheContinentalDivideontheeast,whichfurnishalargeproportionofthewateroftheColorado,andtheWindRiverMountainsontheextremenorth,have
snow-banksthroughoutthesummer.ToshowhowdependenttheColoradoisonthehighpeaksforitsflood-waters,IwillmentionthatitisnottillthesnowsofthesehighaltitudesarefiercelyattackedbythesuninMayandJunethattheriverhasitsannualgreatrise.Itwouldtakeonlyaslightloweringofthemeanannualtemperaturenowtofurnishthesepeakswithicecaps.Therainfallintheloweraridregionsisfromthreetoteninches,increasingnorthwardtofifteenandtwenty-five.Onthepeaks,ofcourse,itismuchgreater.Almostanyclimatecanbehad,fromthehotaridtothewetfrigid.Onthelowerstretches,fromMohavedown,thethermometerinsummerstandsaround112degreesF.agreatdealofthetime,andreaches118degreesF.YetDr.CouessaidhefeltitnomorethanhedidthesummerheatofNewYorkorWashington.*Inwinterthetemperatureat
thebottomoftheGrandCanyonisverymild,andflowersbloommostofthetime.OneNovemberIdescendedfromthesnow-coveredtopoftheKaibabtotheGrandCanyonatthemouthoftheKanab,whereIwasabletobatheintheopenairwithentirecomfort.
*IwasattheNeedlesonesummerforabrieftime,andtheairseemedveryoppressivetome.
Therearesixchieftopographicalfeatures,canyons,cliffs,valleys,
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mesaplateaus,highplateaus,mountains.Therearetwogranddivisions:thelowlandordesert,belowtheVirgen,andtheplateau,butthetopographyoftheimmediaterivercourseseparatesitselfintofourparts,theGreenRiverValley,thecanyon,thevalley-canyon,andthealluvial.Thecanyonpartisthelongest,occupyingabouttwo-thirdsofthewhole,orabout1200miles.Itiscutmainlythroughtheplateaus.ThelastofthesesouthwardistheColorado,avastupheavalreachingfromthelowerendoftheGrandCanyonsouth-easttoaboutwherethe34thparallelcrossesthewesternlineofNewMexico.LieutenantWheelerseveraltimesclaimsthehonourofnamingit(1868-71),butthenameoccursonLieutenantIves'smapof1858.Thisplateaubreakssharplyalongitssouth-westlinetothelowlanddistrict,andonitsnorth-westerlyedgeslopestotheLittleColorado.Itbearsanoblepineforest,andfromitssummitrisetoover12,000feetthevolcanicpeaksoftheSanFranciscoMountains.ItsnorthernedgeistheGrandCanyon,whichseparatesitfromitskindredontheotherside.TheseandtheColoradoPlateaurisetofrom6000to8000feetabovesea-level,anditisthroughthishugemassthattheriverhasgroundouttheGrandCanyon,bycorradingitsbeddowntremendously,thebottomattheendbeingonly840feetabovethesea,whereasthestartatthemouthoftheLittleColoradois2690.Yethereitisalready3500feetbelowthesurfaceattheendofMarbleCanyon,which,separatedonlybythedeepcanyonoftheLittleColorado,ispracticallyanorthward
continuationoftheGrandCanyonitself.Astheriverruns,theGrandCanyonis2171/2mileslong.Tothismaybeaddedthe651/2milesofMarble,givingacontinuouschasmof283mile