The Reno Valley - Emilia Romagna Turismo · The Reno, in Celtic “running water”, is born in ... Silla, Porretta Terme, Ponte della Venturina, Molino del Pallone, Biagioni. - Buses

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The Reno Valley

The River Reno The Reno, in Celtic “running water”, is born inTuscany on Monte delle Piastre and after ashort stretch of rapids, enters Emilia. We are atPonte della Venturina, in the territory ofGranaglione: from here, the course of the riverfollows a green valley, snaking for 75 kms downto Casalecchio di Reno.

From Casalecchio, the Reno begins its courseover the Bolognese plains, almost as far asFerrara. Its banks, among the highest and mostimposing of the Val Padana, can be seen forkilometres, running alongside the river up to theValleys of Comacchio, until finally reaching theAdriatic Sea. In its last stretch, the Reno flowsover the antique bed of the River Po di Primaro,in Roman times the principal branch of theGreat River.

However, it is the history of thousands of yearswhich flows along with the Reno, an extraordi-nary open-air museum displaying its geologicalhistory and that of the use of its water. TheReno has had a profound influence on the eco-nomy of the lands it crosses, making Bolognathe first industrial city in Europe.

The Reno is also a precious environmental arte-ry, offering stretches of extraordinary beauty,which once discovered are impossible not tolove.

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River Reno on the plain

Photo by Comune di Baricella

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Corno alle Scale and its ski-centreThe Marconi Museum in Pontecchio (Sasso Marconi)The Etruscan Necropolis and the National EtruscanMuseum in MarzabottoLa Pieve (parish church) of RoffenoLa Pieve (parish church) of Panico and other works by the“Maestri comacini”The Church of Santa Maria Assunta by Aalvar Aalto in RiolaGrizzana Morandi and its mountainsThe Rocchetta Mattei The Medieval village of La ScolaPalazzo Comelli in BargiThe villages of Baigno, Stagno and ChiapporatoThe Parks and Nature ReservesThe thermal baths of PorrettaThe Porretta Soul FestivalThe Zuccherini Montanari (aniseed doughnuts)The mushrooms, truffles and chestnuts of the Reno ValleyThe chestnut beer of Granaglione

Not to be missed : Tourist itineraryThe itinerary is based around theSS 64 Porrettana highway. AtVergato, it divides into twoparallel paths: the first takes thetraveller from the mountains ofGrizzana Morandi to the Parkdedicated to the two great lakesof Suviana and Brasimone, whilethe second climbs to the highestpeak of the Bolognese Apen-nines, the Corno alle Scale, thenarriving in Porretta Terme, thecapital of thermal wellness, fini-shing in Granaglione in the shel-ter of the Tuscan-Emilian moun-tain range.

- Casalecchio di Reno- Sasso Marconi- Marzabotto - Vergato

From the hills of Grizzana Mo-randi to the Parco dei Laghi- Grizzana Morandi- Camugnano - Castel di Casio

Towards the highest ridges- Castel d’Aiano- Gaggio Montano- Lizzano in Belvedere- Porretta Terme- Granaglione

The Reno Valleythe Apennines

Casalecchio

di Reno

Sasso Marconi

Marzabotto

Vergato

Grizzana Morandi

Castel di Casio

Castel d’Aiano

Gaggio Montano

Porretta Terme

Granaglione

CamugnanoLizzano

in Belvedere

History and Environment The history of the Reno Valley has its roots inthe Etruscan civilisation, which left importanttraces of its presence: in the area of Marzabotto,there are the remains of a large city dating backto the 6th century BC, and there is now the“Pompeo Aria” National Etruscan Museum.Subsequently the valley was conquered beforeby Celts and after by Romans. Then it was mar-ked by conflicts to gain control over the varioussettlements and castles, divided betweenByzantine and Lombard possessions. Here thestory of the Counts of Panico was played out:proud enemies of the Bologna Council, theywere finally forced to obey thanks to the crea-tion of the “Capitani della Montagna” (MountainRangers), whose splendid building is in Vergato.From this period there remain the marvellousworks by the Maestri comacini (an ancient Guildof Master-builders and Stonemasons) and thenumerous tower-houses distributed throughoutthe valley. Heir to this great building tradition isthe beautiful Palazzo Comelli in Bargi (Camugna-no). There is also plenty of evidence of morerecent history: from the Guglielmo Marconi Mu-seum to the places visited by the painter GiorgioMorandi, passing by the fairytale RocchettaMattei, to the Art Nouveau of the Terme Alte ofPorretta. The Church of Riola is a masterpiece ofcontemporary architecture, the only work inItaly by the great Finnish master Alvar Aalto.The unusually beautiful landscape varies a lotaccording to the height, which reaches 2000metres at Corno alle Scale. Almost entirelycovered with chestnut and beech woods, thelandscape is protected by three Regional Parks:the Regional Park of Corno alle Scale, the Regio-nal Park of the Lakes and the Regional HistoricalPark of Monte Sole, as well as the Parco Provin-ciale di Montovolo and the Pliocene foothills.

Buon appetito The local cuisine, like the dialect, is the result ofits geographical position between Emilia andTuscany. The dishes reflect the noble gastrono-mical traditions of both regions, creating a tastycontamination. Besides the typical soups ofEmilia (called “minestre” in Bolognese, a termalso used to indicate pasta dishes) you will alsofind cereal-based soups, the succulent Fioren-tina (T-bone steak), game, truffle, mushroomand chestnut-based dishes, without forgettingthe infinite other delicacies offered by thewoods and mountain moors, created accordingto ancient recipes. Of particular note are themountain honey and the chestnuts of Grana-glione, the last town before reaching Tuscany,where there is a surprise: the Beltaine ChestnutBeer, inspired by the presence of the Celts inthe valley. Also original to the zone are the che-

stnut “ciacci” (a chestnut-flour flat bread), the“crescenta dell’uva” (raisin-bread) of Vergatoand the “borlenghi” (crumbly puff-pastry withan appetizing filling). You should also try the“zuccherini montanari” (aniseed doughnuts),central to the Sagra (Feast) of Riola.

How to get there: - A1 Motorway Bologna-Florence: exit Sasso

Marconi, Rioveggio and Pian del Voglio, then join the SS 64 “Porrettana” highway and followthe indications for the different places.

- Roads: SS 64 Porrettana (Pistoia - Bologna)- Railway Bologna-Pistoia: stations in

Casalecchio di Reno, Borgo Nuovo, Sasso Marconi, Lama di Reno, Marzabotto, Pian diVenola, Pioppe di Salvaro, Vergato, Riola, Silla, Porretta Terme, Ponte della Venturina,Molino del Pallone, Biagioni.

- Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it, connect the towns to each other and Bologna.

Sasso Marconi - Tourist OfficeVia Porrettana, 312 - 40037 Sasso Marconi (BO)Tel. 051.6758409 - [email protected]

Porretta Terme - Tourist OfficeP.zza della Libertà, 11 - 40046 Porretta Terme (BO)Tel. 0534.22021 - [email protected]

Lizzano in Belvedere - Tourist OfficeP.zza G. Marconi, 6 - 40042 Lizzano in Belvedere (BO)Tel. 0534.51052 - [email protected]

Vidiciatico - Tourist OfficeVia Marconi, 31 - 40042 Vidiciatico (BO) Tel. 0534.53159 - [email protected]

Molino del Pallone (Granaglione) Tourist OfficeVia Roma, 56/1 - 40030 Molino del Pallone (BO) Tel. 0534.62468 - [email protected]

Tourist Information

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Inhabited since time immemorial, the RenoValley has played a decisive role since Etruscantimes as the main link between Emilia andTuscany.

In the Middle Ages, the road was called ViaFrancesca della Sambuca and was an impor-tant alternative to the Via Francigena, used bypilgrims on their journey to Rome. Theseancient paths have now been rediscoveredand parts can be followed on foot, with publictransport or by car.

Despite being little more than a mule track, theroad through the Reno Valley continued to beone of the most used roads through theApennines until the 18th century. With industria-lization, the infrastructural requirements chan-ged and new work was necessary: in 1847, underthe Papal Government of Pope Gregory XVI, theState Highway 64 known as the “Porrettana” wascompleted on the Bolognese side, while at thesame time the continuation on the Tuscan side

was constructed, the Via Leopolda, named inhonour of the Tuscan Grand Duke Leopoldo II.

The Porrettana still links cities and landscapesthat are extremely different, but all equallyfascinating, in a journey through places set insnow and fog, woods and wide-open spaces,mountains and plains which cannot fail tomove visitors.

On the 3rd November 1864, a steam train set offto inaugurate the railway running parallel to thePorrettana, connecting Bologna to Pistoia, thefirst trans-Apennine railroad, considered at thetime to be one of the most courageous under-takings in Europe. The entire journey took sixand a half hours. Today this beautiful stretch isreserved for a regional train which takes an hourand a half to run through the Reno Valley, allo-wing visitors to reach many of the places men-tioned in our itinerary and to breathe in theatmosphere of another time.

The Porrettana:a 2000-year-old road

Balzo dei Rossi in Sasso Marconi - Photo by Ecosistema - Andrea Serra

Terre Alte (Highlands), from June toSeptember more than 600 events organizedby the town councils of Camugnano, Casteldi Casio, Gaggio Montano, Granaglione,Lizzano in Belvedere, Porretta Terme, Cornoalle Scale Park and Laghi di Suviana eBrasimone Regional Park.www.comune.porrettaterme.bo.it

Suoni dell’Appennino (Sounds of the Apen-

nines) is a summer season of musical eventsoffering the chance to discover ancientboroughs, sanctuaries, medieval parish chur-ches and the natural beauty of the Apen-nines, while enjoying concerts of every typeof music. The festival includes the promotionof promising local talent and the participa-tion of international artists. Having started inthe Reno Valley, the event now also involvesthe other valleys of the Apennines.www.associazionemusicae.com

Events

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We start our journey along the Reno Valley atCasalecchio di Reno, 5 kilometres from Bo-logna, along the SS 64 Porrettana highway.

Already an established holiday spot for theBolognese aristocracy, in 1883 Casalecchiowas connected to Bologna by a steam-tramand some places, such as the Caffè Pedretti,became meeting points for the cultural élitesurrounding Giosuè Carducci. At the same time, Casalecchio began to feel astrong industrial influence and so its visitorsincluded important foreigners such as theGermans of the Argenteria and the breweryRonzani (today a shopping mall), and theEnglish at the Canonica mills. Today it is a live-ly cultural and commercial centre, immersedin greenery at the limits of Bologna.

Dominating the town is the Colle dellaGuardia, with the massive, famous temple ofSan Luca, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, con-nected to Bologna by the longest portico inthe world. Casalecchio is also directly con-nected to the Sanctuary by the path of theBrégoli, an ancient mule track which leads

walkers and pilgrims through the woods fromthe Church of San Martino up to the foot ofthe venerated Byzantine icon of the Madonnaof San Luca.

Opposite the Colle della Guardia, across theriver, stands the Eremo di Tizzano (4 kms fromthe centre of Casalecchio, in the direction ofZola Predosa). A retreat for the Camaldolesi (acontemplative religious order), this largeBaroque church is composed of six inter-con-nected chapels. Inside, the wooden choirstalls are worth seeing, as are the paintings byGandolfi and the Guercino. Behind the church,you can see two of the seventeen cells wherethe monks used to live. There is also a notableview over Bologna and the plains.

In Casalecchio, on the River Reno, the firstsluice was built in the 12th century to deviatesome of the water towards the city along theReno Canal. The sluice is still in function andalong the canal, there is a lovely cycle track,allowing a peaceful transit through the gree-nery to Bologna.

Casalecchio di Reno

La Chiusa (The Sluice) and the Reno Canal. The intention was to furnish power to themills and factories of the medieval city, thenin full expansion, as well as creating naviga-ble routes to take Bolognese products tointernational markets. So in Casalecchio in1208, the first stable wooden sluice wasbuilt, paid for by the Bologna City Council.Having a great amount of water from theriver and having restructured the Reno Canallinking the sluice to the city, Bologna wasthus able to fill a complex network ofcanals, drains and conduits, turning it into acity of water as well as a great Europeancentre for the production of silk voile.Rebuilt many times, the sluice was unable toresist floods. So in 1567, Pope Pious V orde-red it to be reconstructed, imposing themaintenance on those who benefited fromthe water. Thus was created the great sluice

based on a design by the Vignola (JacopoBarozzi), which is still today a marvelloustestament to the period’s hydraulic enginee-ring. Moving towards Bologna along thecanal, we encounter another building bea-ring witness to the productive history ofBologna linked to the water of the RenoCanal: the Filanda, a historical hemp factory,damaged in the Second World War andtoday partially rebuilt - the part lookingonto the canal has become the seat of the“Casa per la Pace” (House for Peace). Not to be missed: on the 29th August everyyear, the Consortium of the Canals of theReno and Savena open the works and orga-nize visits, giving information about theirhistory, characteristics and operative fun-ctions both in the past and today. Info: Consorzio della Chiusa di Casalecchioe del Canale di Reno - Tel. 051.6493527www.consorzireno-savena.it

History and Culture

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On the right bank of the Reno, stretching overthe hills leading up to the Sanctuary of SanLuca, there is one of the green “lungs” whichsurround Bologna, Parco Talon.

Opposite Parco Talon, there is the, which canbe reached from the town centre with a plea-sant bike-ride, offering a splendid view of thesluice and the river. Here in summer, you cansunbathe and relax on the banks of the Reno,on a beach with all the facilities of a genuineseaside resort.

There are also two notable cultural centres,the “Casa della Conoscenza” and the “AlfredoTestoni” Theatre, in Piazza del Popolo, built in1928 as the local seat of the “Casa del Fascio”(Fascism House). The building is graced with aloggia, intended at the time to be used forfencing.

The Sluice Park, also known as Parco Talonis composed of land which once belongedto the Marquis Sampieri Talon, who builtvarious villas there in the 17th century. Thepark has been at the centre of moments ofgreat social splendour, particularly in the18th century. In the 19th century, Stendhal, aregular visitor, compared it to the “Bois deBoulogne”. Strolling along its tree-lined ave-nues, relaxing on its large lawns and cros-sing small woods specially designed to getlost in, it is still possible today to imaginethe ancient noble extravagance. Here andthere in the grounds, there are ruins inwhich you can still recognise the unnaturalarchitectural inventions which expertsassociate with the famous architect andscenery artist Ferdinando Galli Bibiena. Inspring and summer, the park lends its atmo-spheric setting to cultural shows and per-formances.

Nature

CanoeingNear the sluice, the Reno runs smoothly,allowing everyone, adult and child, to rowin safety, train or even just enjoy themsel-ves in a real river-gymnasium. There is alsoa permanent slalom-field for canoeing, andthis stretch of the river is used all yearround for training by the local competitiveriver-canoeing team (Info: A.S.D. CanoaClub Bologna Tel. 051.575354; [email protected]). In Casalecchio, there is also the well-knownPalasport, a temple of national-level basket-ball and the venue for many of the region’smost important pop concerts.

Sport and Active Tourism

Kite Festival, Parco Talon: 1st MayReno Folk Festival, traditional sounds and flavours - folk music, dance, workshops and shows; food stalls: JulyTrimi’s Festival, international musical season: June - www.trimisfestival.itFestival of San Martino: 11th November

MARKET DAY: Wednesday

Events

La Chiusa

Photo by Comune di Casalecchio di Reno

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Going up the Porrettana highway, you come tothe territory of Sasso Marconi, named afterthe rock known in medieval times as the Sassodi Glòsina, a first sign of the Pliocene foothills,and Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of thewireless telegraph.

Before reaching Sasso, coming from Casalec-chio, you come to the small town of Pontec-chio. From the Porrettana highway, the VillaGriffone built at the end of the 17th centuryand modified in the 18th, is easily visible. Thebuilding passed into the Marconi family in1895, and it was here that Guglielmo conduc-ted his first transmission experiments. Excava-ted in the hill where there is the Villa, theMarconi Mausoleum realized by the famousFascist architect Marcello Piacentini, who

drew his inspiration from Etruscan tombs.Continuing towards Sasso, you reach the villa-ge of Colle Ameno, an interesting example ofthe typical 18th-century architecture, designedfor living quarters and production buildings.Built around the villa of the noble family ofthe Ghisilieri, the village still has its originalpre-industrial structure with houses and craftworkshops, a hospital for the poor, a printer’sand a famous ceramic factory. During theSecond World War, it became a Nazi prisonand sorting centre. Today, nothing re-mains ofthe villa but atmospheric ruins, while the vil-lage and park, open to the public, have recen-tly been renovated. There is also the Oratoryof Sant’Antonio of Padova, a genuine treasureof Baroque art, visits to which can be organi-sed with the Fondazione Guglielmo Marconi.

Among the numerous Renaissance villas inthe area, Castello de’ Rossi is certainly worthvisiting, with its elegant neo-gothic profile,along the banks of the Reno. It can be rea-ched following a 1.4 km side road off the Por-rettana highway. Built at the end of the 15th

century by the banker Bartolomeo Rossi, ithosted Popes Giulio II, Paolo III, Leone X, thepoet Torquato Tasso and Giovanni II Bentivo-glio. Separated from the castle by a canal, thecourtyard, with its inns and shops, has a beau-tiful dovecote tower with two orders of log-gias at the northern end. It is in this settingthat the “Fira di sdaz”, a traditional Septemberfair, has been held for over three hundredyears.

Sasso Marconi

The age of wireless was born here, in the17th-century Villa Griffone in Pontecchio,family residence and the site of the firsttelegraphy experiments by GuglielmoMarconi (Bologna 1874 - Rome 1937). Todaythe villa is home to the Marconi Foundationand Museum dedicated to the great inven-tor. Particularly moving is a visit to thefamous “stanza dei bachi” (silkworm room),the first laboratory for the young scientist,destined to win the Nobel Prize for Physicsat just thirty-five years of age. In thegrounds, there are the remains of the yacht“Elettra”, Marconi’s floating laboratory from1919. Visits to the Museum - the educationalelement is particularly stimulating - can bebooked with a guide. Continuing in Marconi’s footsteps, it is pos-sible to visit the scientist’s ancient familyhome (15th century) in Granaglione, while inthe central square in Porretta, there is thebeautiful building which belonged to hisfather (born in nearby Croci di Capugnano),where Guglielmo passed his childhoodsummers.MARCONI MUSEUM - Villa GriffoneVia Celestini, 1 - Pontecchio Marconi40037 Sasso Marconi (BO)Tel. 051.846121 - Fax [email protected] - www.fgm.itOpening times: with prior booking and aguided visit. Free entrance.

Museums - Culture and Famous Names

Villa Griffone - Marconi Museum

Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Guido Avoni

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Continuing along the road which leads to thecastle, the elegant architecture in wood andmetal of the bridge, Ponte di Vizzano, allowsus to cross over and discover the territory ofSasso on the right-hand side of the RiverReno. Passing alongside the extensive park ofPrati di Mugnano (over 110 hectares of land),we take the mountain road of Ganzole to ajunction, turning left to Pieve del Pino, wherethe view opens out over a splendid naturalamphitheatre of gullies overlooked by the“dente” (tooth), a sandstone spur. A little fur-ther on, turning right after 6 kms, we reachBàdolo and Monte Adone, the heart of thePliocene Foothills.

San Gherardo Nature Reserve

Photo by S.A.P.A.B.A.

The Pliocene FoothillsThe range of sandstone rocks of the foothills,from the Pliocene period (between 5 and 2million years ago), stand imposingly betweenthe valleys of the Reno and Idice. Their spec-tacular rocky faces are the result of sedimen-tation of sand and gravel brought down by theSetta, Reno, Savena and Idice rivers, which flo-wed onto the plains, at the time covered bythe sea. The following phases that forced upthe Apennine range raised these rocks up tomore than 600 metres above sea-level. Winderosion then gave the cliffs an appearancesimilar to the Dolomites: one of the mostbeautiful examples is the Torri di MonteAdone, near the homonymous mount. Allthese rocks are rich in marine fossils: the mostextraordinary find from this lost sea is undoub-tedly the Pliocene Whale of Gorgognano,whose remains are now in the Museum ofGeology and Palaeontology of the Universityof Bologna. The geological aspect is not theonly point of interest - the wildlife and envi-ronmental situation presents a series of verydifferent habitats. There are also a lot of origi-nal historical remains, such as the “colomba-rio”, perhaps an ancient sepulchre dug deepinto the bare cliff-face.

In the Foothills, about 10 kms from Sasso, thereis theNova Arbora Botanical Gardens, culti-vated in the courtyard of an old farmhouse.Guided visits are organized around the botani-cal garden and educational walks pass throughthe various natural environments recreatedthere (a pond, rocks, a bog). Having becomethe natural habitat for various types of plantsand animals, over a thousand different speciesare grown, including several in risk of extin-ction in Italy. Info: www.novarbora.com

Nature

The San Gherardo SAPABA Nature Re-serve stretches between the River Renoand the rocky cliffs of the “Balzo dei Rossi”,and includes two wet zones created fromabandoned sand and gravel pits. The areahas a network of trails, information boardsand observation points, intended for publicand educational purposes (in particular theinnovative amphibious hut for aquaticobservation). This is helped by the reserve’sposition on the Reno halfway between theParco della Chiusa in Casalecchio di Renoand Prati di Mugnano in Sasso Marconi.Important inhabitants are the PeregrineFalcons which nest in the nearby sandstonecliffs and the aquatic birds of the two wetzones. The area has disabled access and canbe visited with prior booking.Tel. 051.6758409 - [email protected]

Nature

The territory of Sasso Marconi has always hada notable vocation for farming and is particu-larly famous for producing DOC Colli Bolo-gnesi wines, with the denomination “CollineMarconiane”. Since 1999, it has been part of theNational Association “Wine Cities” and since2006 has an Info point for the Strada dei Vini edei Sapori “Città, Castelli e Ciliegi” (“Cities, Ca-stles and Cherries” Wine and Flavour Route).

The possibilities of walking tours in the hillsaround the county town, along paths whichreach places fulls of history and suggestions, likeJano village with its medieval tower, are nume-rous. The Sasso Marconi’s Tourist Guide, realizedby the Town Council offers 41 excursion pathsthat we find in a practical map enclosed withthe Guide. Audio guides for Sasso Marconi,Casalecchio di Reno, Crespellano, Vergato eZola Predosa downloading on mobile, smar-tphone or personal computer from:www.sassomobile.com.

Where the River Setta flows into the Reno,there is a Roman Aqueduct, an extraordinarypiece of hydraulic engineering which carriesdrinking water to Bologna along an 18-kmsunderground tunnel. Planned and built by theRomans at the end of the 1st century AD, theaqueduct still functions perfectly today.


The Roman AqueductConsidering the water of the River Aposa(the only water course which naturallycrosses the centre of Bologna) to be toomuddy and the water of the Reno too richin limestone, Roman engineers in the 1stcentury AD saw the Setta as the ideal riverto supply the necessary water for the colo-ny of Bononia. From then on, the aqueductwas functional up to the fall of the Empire,when its slow decline began, leading to itbeing almost completely forgotten. Itsrediscovery in the 18th century was thanksto Abbot Calindri, a great expert on theBolognese mountains. It was completelyreactivated in 1883, thanks to the BolognaCity Council, but perhaps the most extra-ordinary thing is that today, after morethan 2,000 years, the aqueduct still servesthe houses of the Bolognese perfectly.

History and Culture

Events

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Lions, tigers, monkeys and crocodiles in theApennines together with roe deer and birdsof prey? Yes, they’re the animals taken care ofon Monte Adone, most of them having beenremoved illegally from their natural habitat.So the centre is not just an animal park, noreven a zoo, but a place where it is possible toapproach and meet exotic and wild animalsin an intelligent, aware manner. EXOTIC AND WILD FAUNA CENTRENational Centre: Via Brento, 940037 Sasso Marconi (BO)For information and guided visits (also forschools): Tel. [email protected] www.centrotutelafauna.org

Nature

Free climbing The Pliocene Foothills are the kingdom ofclimbing: from the “marvellous sandcastle” of Bàdolo to the Fosso Raibanocliffs. This rock has a long sporting histo-ry and each of its routes has a thousandsecrets. The suitable part is about 120metres high and is divided into four largesectors: Low, Medium, High and NewBàdolo. In the high part of the Rocca diBàdolo, there are many routes of particu-lar difficulty and athletic style. At FossoRabano, the climbing style is more ele-gant and mostly vertical. The beauty ofthe setting and the particular care givento the preparation of the routes makethe cliffs among the best in the provin-ce. On days when the sirocco blowsstrongly on the upper faces of theRocca di Bàdolo, you canclimb here in sunshine, pro-tected from the wind, evenin winter. The cliffs are pri-vate property: the ownersdisclaim any responsibilityfor harm to climbers orthird persons.Info: www.federclimb.bo.it

Guglielmo Marconi Day: 25th AprilCamminata “Sopra e sotto i ponti” (“Overand under the bridges” Walk): JuneTartufesta (Truffle Festival): in Octoberand November

Fira di sdaz (Winnowing Fair), for over 300years, the Winnowing Fair in Pontecchiohas brought together the sights, sounds

and flavours of the Apennine farmingculture in the perfectly-preservedsetting of the courtyard of Pa-lazzode’ Rossi: September.Info: 051.843511

Bosco di MezzanaChestnut Festival: OctoberMARKET DAY: Tuesday

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And so we come to Marzabotto, the heart ofthe Etruscan Apennines.

In 1831, the ruins of an important Etruscan cityof more than 40,000 inhabitants were discove-red above the town. Visits to the excavationsof the Etruscan city include a moving journeythrough the ruins of its streets, then a climb tothe acropolis and the atmospheric peace of itseastern sepulchre. Inside the archaeologicalsite, the new buildings of the “Pompeo Aria”National Etruscan Museum house the rich fin-dings from the necropoli, reconstructions ofthe roofs of the houses, bronze votive statuesand the famous head of Koùros.

Marzabotto

Archaeological Site and National Etruscan Museum The Etruscan city of Marzabotto, also known asMisa after the Misano plain in which it wasfounded, was a flourishing caravan city betwe-en the 4th and 5th centuries BC, at the centre ofthe commercial system which connected theport of Spina, the capital of Lombard Etruria(Felsina, now Bologna) and Tyrrhenian Etruria.The outlay of the city, built according to therigorous geometry of Hippodamus, is clear evi-dence of the frequent exchanges, also cultural,between the Etruscans and the Greeks. Thenetwork of streets (the main ones a good 15metres wide) is still easily visible, a singular casein Italy of pre-Roman town planning. You canalso still see the ruins of a large foundry for mel-ting bronze, and ceramic workshops, as well asthose of numerous habitations with internalcourtyards and wells, often connected to anartisan’s shop facing onto the street. To the eastand north of the housing area, there are twonecropoli with travertine tombs, while on thehigh ground above the Porrettana highway,there is the acropolis. The decline of theancient Etruscan colony under pressure from

the Celtic invasions in the 4th century BC wasinexorable: when the Romans took possession,nothing was left of the city but vague traces onwhich they decided to build nothing more thana large country villa, of which the foundations,the well and the ruins of a brick-kiln are still visi-ble. Info: for information about guided visitsand educational packages, also including theEtruscan-Celtic site of Monte Bibele and theMonterenzio Archaeological Museum, Tel 051.2097715/00www.archeobo.arti.beniculturali.it/marzabottoTHE “POMPEO ARIA” NATIONAL ETRUSCAN MUSEUMVia Porrettana Sud, 1540043 Marzabotto (BO)Tel./Fax [email protected] times: Museum Tuesday to Sunday, insummer 9am-1pm and 3pm-6.30pm, in winter9am-1pm and 2pm-5.30pm. Archaeologicalarea in summer 8am-7pm, in winter 8am-5.30pm. Tickets: full price € 2, reductions € 1,free entrance for under 18s and over 65s. Freeentrance to the archaeological area.

Museums

above head of Kourous, below National Etruscan Museum,

in the next page Archaelogical site


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The village of Malfolle, 6 kms from Marzabottoafter Pian di Vénola, conserves precious medie-val buildings, such as the Torre delle Lame fromthe 15th century and the Oratory of San Niccolòdi Bezzano. This is now the site of a cultural cen-tre. From here, you can enjoy the most beautifulview from this side of the valley, exactly opposi-te the Historical Park of Monte Sole. The area isexcellent for walking and mountain bike excur-sions, and contains several other villages whichhave survived down the centuries, such as Ca’Zanetti di Luminasio from the 16th century.

The best example of Romanesque art can befound in the valley of Panico (2 kms north of theprovincial capital), after crossing the Reno onthe bridge of Paganino. This is the Parish Churchof San Lorenzo, founded in 1145 and made ofsandstone blocks carved by Tuscan “Maestricomacini” (an ancient Guild of Master-buildersand Stonemasons). The zoomorphic capitalsand the fresco-decorated apse are of particularnote. In the external decorations of the apse theemblem of a rose can be seen, evidence of thelegendary dominion of the Counts of Panico,whose castle was built in a strategic position onthe hill facing the parish church, but was totallydestroyed by the Bolognese in 1306.

The Counts of PanicoThe feudal family of the Counts of Panicoare descended from the Counts of Bologna,whose roots date back to the 9th century andare connected to the dynasty of Charle-magne. The earliest document mentioningthem is from 1068. For more than three cen-turies, they were the most powerful feudalfamily of the Bolognese Apennines and atthe same time, the proudest enemies ofBologna. In the 13th century, the family’s po-wer was such that Emperor Federico II gavethem possession of a vast territory extendingfrom today’s Sasso Marconi to the borderwith Tuscany. The hostilities with Bolognaturned bloody when the free City Council,having expelled the counts who ruled thecity, began to expand its dominion into themountains. It was a long drawn-out conquestwhich only came to an end towards the endof the 14th century, when the feudal systemhad already been surpassed in the rest ofnorthern Italy. To bring these, the mostrebellious feudal lords to order, as well as todefend the border with Tuscany, Bolognacreated the Magistratura del Capitano dellaMontagna (Mountain Rangers), based first inScaricalasino (today’s Monghidoro) then inCastel di Casio and finally in Vergato, entru-sting it to the local lords as they becameallies. In 1306, the struggle erupted into a

bloody clash between theGuelfs and Ghibellines.The Counts of Panico, lea-ders of the Ghibellines,came off worst: their ca-stle was destroyed, CountMaghinardo captured andhis son, Count Mostarda,beheaded. But the finalblow for the Counts ofPanico came at the end ofthe 14th century, in con-nection with attempts to

create a lordship over Bologna. Found guiltyof taking part in a plot hatched by GianGaleazzo Visconti to take control of the city,Ugolino da Panico was beheaded in PiazzaMaggiore in Bologna on the 31st December 1389.

History and Culture

The tigella, typical of the Apennines bet-ween Bologna and Modena, is in fact notthe bread itself, but theheated stone on whichthe pastry is laid. Overtime, the name of theinstrument substitutedthat of the actual pro-duct. A notable elementis the typical flowerdecoration in the centreof each tigella whichrecalls the coat of armsof the Counts of Panico.Another interesting pointis the custom, by nowlost, of putting chestnutleaves between the pa-stry and the hot stone in order to keep the pastry moist.

Gastronomy and Wine

Tigella

Private archive

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The Historical Park of Monte SoleIn the mountains between the valleys ofthe Reno and the Setta, this Historical Park,the only example in Italy, was created onthe site of the Nazi Massacre ofMarzabotto in the autumn of 1944. Today itis the site of the Fondazione Scuola di Pacedi Monte Sole (Peace School) and the reli-gious community founded by DonGiuseppe Dossetti (page 25), who is buriedthere. The small range of Mounts Pezza,Sàlvaro, Termine and Sole stretches along awatershed which became the front lineduring the Second World War. The mostcommon vegetation is the Woodland Pineof Monte Termine, here at its southernEuropean limit, evidence of the previouscolder climate. There are also deer andwolves which, together with several spe-cies of birds of prey in the area, can addextra emotion to any of the excursions inthe Park: from the “Memoriale” visit,through the sites of the massacre, to the“Montovolo”, “Etrusco” and “Naturalistico”itineraries, and finally the “Morandiano”,dedicated to the places that inspired thepainter Giorgio Morandi.

Park headquarters Via Porrettana Nord, 440043 Marzabotto (BO)Tel. 051.932525 - Fax [email protected] www.parcostoricomontesole.itwww.ermesambiente.it/parchi

Visitors’ Centre, Il Poggiolo Via San Martino 25 40043 Marzabotto (BO)Tel. 051.6787100

Nature

The flavours of Marzabotto, market offoodstuffs from the mountains: from mayto December

Pian di VénolaAntique Fair: May

MARKET DAY: Thursday

Events

The town was awarded the Military ValueGold Medal. This was the justification:

“... Positioned between sheer cliffs and thegreen scrub of the ancient Etruscan land,Marzabotto chose iron, fire and destructionrather than surrendering to the oppressor. For14 months, it bore the steely arrogance of theTeutonic hoards who were unable to weakenthe pride of its sons sheltering on the ruggedsummits of Monte Venere and Monte Sole,strengthened by the love and incitement ofthe elders, women and children. The ruthlessmassacres of unarmed youths, blossomingwives and their falling parents did not breakthem and the 1,830 dead rest on the moun-tains and in the valleys as an everlasting lessonto future generations of what love for yourcountry can mean...”

(8th September 1943 - 1st November 1944)

Every day except Monday, the crypt built inmemory of the martyrs under the church ofMarzabotto can be visited. The memory ofthe Second World War and of the Massacreof Marzabotto is preserved in the RegionalHistorical Park of Monte Sole, surrounded bygreenery and today the site of the “Scuola diPace” (Peace School).

Marzabotto is also known for the massacre of955 civilians by German soldiers between the29th September and the 5th October 1944. This was the end of the Gothic Line (page 160),which from 1944 to 1945 divided Italy from theAdriatic to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Pushed back bythe advancing allied troops, the Germans wereforced to withdraw their front line to thegates of Marzabotto. It was during the retreatthat there was the ferocious massacre of civi-lians accused of supporting the Red StarPartisans. On the 29th September 1944, theGerman troops began to climb towards thesummit of Monte Sole. Six days later, nothingwas left of the villages where the massacretook place but a few ruins.

Deer

Photo by Provincia di Bologna

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Leaving Marzabotto and continuing along theSS64 highway, you enter the territory of Ver-gato at Pioppe di Salvaro. A few kilometres fur-ther on, you come to Calvenzano, ancient pro-perty of Queen Matilde of Canossa. TheChurch of Sant’’ Apollinare, referred to in docu-ments from the 12th century and rebuilt in 18th-century style, contains Romanesque remains.

After Calvenzano, the SS64 highway passes bet-ween the Reno and the Balzi di Calvenzano,sandstone spurs in whose crevices Peregrine Fal-cons nest. At the narrowest point between themountain and the river, on the right there is theSanctuary of the Madonna del Bosco, whichseems to watch over the small bridge below overthe Reno. On reaching the area of Tabina, a turnto the right will lead you into a narrow, woodedvalley that arrives at the village of Prunarolo,where you can admire the sandstone houses.

Returning to the valley bottom, 37 kms from Bo-logna, you reach Vergato, in the centre of a floodbasin where the River Vergatello flows into theReno. Its strategic position made it a meeting andtrading centre for the surrounding populations,leading to the growth of economic and commer-cial activities. For three hundred years, it was theheadquarters of the Capitani della Montagna(Mountain Rangers) and is now the headquartersof the Mountain Community of the Upper andMid-level Reno Valley. In the main square, thePalazzo dei Capitani della Montagna has abeautiful façade decorated with the coat of armsof the Rangers, thanks to whom the Free Councilof Bologna took control of the contestedApennine territories. Built around 1400, the buil-ding has been carefully restored and recentlyenriched with four stain glass windows by theVergato artist Luigi Ontani.

Situated on the Gothic Line (page 160), duringthe Second World War Vergato sufferedrepeated bombing and was practically razedto the ground. The town was awarded theCivilian Value Gold Medal.

Nearby there is Liserna, the site from whichVergato was born, with Mounts Aldara and Perobehind it, part of the Gothic Line. Now thesemountains are a place for wonderful walks, par-ticularly in spring to admire and photograph thesplendid flowers, such as “peonies”, a protectedflower in this area. A panoramic marked pathreaches the summit of Monte Pero, goingthrough the ruins of the numerous defensivewar handiworks, like trenches, shelters and bays.

On the road which rises from Vergato towardsZocca, you pass Susano and then Cereglio, in-cluding the ancient village of Suzzano with itssandstone houses, typical of the Apennines.Not far away, among the chestnut woods, youcome to the Cerelia Spring, whose sulphurouswaters were already known to the ancient Ro-mans for their curative properties.

Leaving Cereglio, in the upper valley of the RiverVergatello on the ancient Via Nonantolana, avisit to the Pieve di Roffeno is a must. The “pie-ve” (parish church), dedicated to St Peter, is ba-sed on the designs of rural Romanesque archi-tecture from the 12th century. In the Baroque pe-riod, there were several modifications whichpartly changed the structure, but of the originalchurch there remain the splendid decoratedapse, notable capitals and a 14th-century defensi-ve tower. Inside there is an important baptismfont and 17th-century frescoes. The church can bevisited with prior booking. Info: Tel. 051.915407.

Vergato

Palazzo dei Capitani, glass windows by Luigi Ontani

Photo by Comune di Vergato

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Coming back to Cereglio, in a few kilometres,you arrive in Tolè, a peaceful summer touristresort. Situated on the watershed betweenthe valleys of the Reno and Samoggia, thearea is famous for the cultivation of a typicalmountain potato, a basic ingredient of manytraditional recipes, and for the quality of itswater which flows from three springs andfeeds twelve fountains. To highlight the valueof the fountains and the ancient urban watersystem, Tolè has an open-air museum withvarious works by painters and sculptors,which visitors can discover walking throughthe village streets. The Torre di Tolè is veryimpressive, a fascinating village mostly aban-doned for decades. Apart from the base ofthe tower, there are some notable windowsand doorways; it is also worth visiting the cen-turies-old chestnut forest which surroundsthe housing complex.

Returning to Vergato and going 12 kms alongthe Porrettana highway, you reach Riola,whose territory is divided between the coun-cils of Vergato and Grizzana Morandi.

Going up the road to Montecavalloro, youcome across the tower-houses of Monzoneand Costonzo, built in a dominating positionover the valley. It was in Costonzo that theonly medical school of the BologneseApennines was developed in the late 15th cen-tury. The enormous complex of houses thatmake up the tower-house of Costonzo iscomposed of various buildings which develo-ped around a powerful tower; it is one of theProvince of Bologna’s national monumentsand can be visited by prior arrangement withthe custodian.

And finally, a delicacy: the famous crescentadell’uva (raisin bread), produced in the localovens, especially in the Christmas period.

The potatoes of Tolè owe their excellentquality and their characteristics to thesandy terrain and the particular climate ofthe mid-level Bolognese mountains.Gnocchi, tortelloni and budino di patate(potato pudding) are some of the speciali-ties you can taste in the local restaurantsand on occasion of the Potato Festival,which has taken place in September forforty years.

Gastronomy and Wine

The Sunday in Albis Fair: the first Sundayafter EasterThe Reno Valley Fair: June.Tartufesta: late October and early November

TolèWild Boar Festival: end of JulyPotato Festival: late September and earlyOctober

CereglioVillage Festival: August

MARKET DAY: Monday

Events

Pieve di Roffeno


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Reno Valley in autumn


Our itinerary to discover the Reno Valley now splits in two parallel directions, both startingfrom Vergato: the first climbs through the hills of Giorgio Morandi to the Regional Park of theLakes, finishing in Granaglione, while the second heads straight to Corno alle Scale to reachPorretta Terme, wellness capital of the valley, and finish in Granaglione.

1. From the Morandi hills to the Regional Park of the Lakes- Grizzana Morandi- Camugnano- Castel di Casio

2. Towards the highest Apennine ranges- Castel d’Aiano- Gaggio Montano- Lizzano in Belvedere - Porretta Terme- Granaglione

Not far from Aalto’s church there is the mostparticular building of the whole Apennineregion: the Rocchetta Mattei, a genuinefairy-tale castle, whose Arabic-Moorish styleis sure to stimulate the imagination of anyonepassing through the valley.

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On the range between the valleys of the Renoand Setta, with its particular landscape andhouses, Grizzana became famous in 20th cen-tury art history thanks to Giorgio Morandi,who entered a particularly creative period ofhis artistic life there. Inspired by the viewsfrom the Tower of San Michele in PoggioMezzano and by the haylofts of Campiaro,the great Bolognese artist painted some ofthe most significant works of modern arthere. An itinerary of the Regional HistoricalPark of Monte Sole (page 64) is dedicated tothe places linked to Morandi.

In the village of Riola, on the SS 64 Porrettanahighway, there is a jewel of contemporaryarchitecture: the Church of Santa MariaAssunta, by the Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.

Giorgio Morandi, one of the major Italianpainters of the 20th century, first came toGrizzana in 1913, and then made it his habi-tual holiday spot. In the small villa whereMorandi stayed in his last visits to Grizzana,the original furniture and the workshopwith his artist’s tools are conserved. 1 kilo-metre from the village, there is the GiorgioMorandi Documentation Centre, set up in aseries of haylofts in Campiaro, one of thepainter’s favourite subjects, in a zone stilltoday unaltered since the time of the arti-st’s visits there. Giorgio Morandi and thelandscape of Grizzana, like Corot and theRoman countryside or Van Gogh and Arles,blend together in a continuous cross-refe-rence between art and nature. But Grizzanais not alone: another place linked toMorandi in the Apennines is Rocca diRoffeno (Castel d’Aiano), on the other sideof the Reno Valley: in the ancient manor ofMonzone (15th century), the artist spent thesummers between 1933 and 1938 and pain-ted a series of landscapes.

GIORGIO MORANDI DOCUMENTATION CENTRE AND MORANDI HOUSE MUSEUMLocalità Campiaro, 112 40030 Grizzana Morandi (BO)Tel. [email protected] times: Wednesday 9am-1pm, Thursday 2pm-6pm,Friday 3pm-6pm, Saturday 10am-1pm and2pm-6pm. Open all year. Free entrance.

Museums - Culture and Famous Names

The name of Alvar Aalto, the great archi-tect, designer and town planner, is linked tothe Bolognese Apennines thanks to theChurch of S. Maria Assunta in Riola, achurch he designed in 1966, the only one ofhis works in Italy. During his visit to Riola,the Finnish Maestro noticed the profile ofthe mountains surrounding the village anddecided to reproduce it in the building’sfaçade, made with stone from Montòvolo,thus creating a direct relationship with thelandscape of the Reno Valley. Inside thechurch as well, the river itself becomes anatural iconographic element, in the stai-ned-glass window beside the font. It isopen to the public on occasions of reli-gious celebrations. Other works of contem-porary architecture in the territory not tobe missed are the Ésprit Nouveau Pavilionby Le Corbousier and the Fiera District byhis disciple Kenzo Tange, both in Bologna.

Culture and Famous Names

Church of S. Maria Assunta by Alvar Aalto


Grizzana Morandi

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The Conte Cesare Mattei, a self-taughthomoeopathy scholar in the mid-19th cen-tury, defined a “new science” which madehim famous: Electrohomoeopathy. In thesame period as his studies, Count Matteidevoted himself to the building of hisdream-house, the Rocchetta Mattei. Thiseclectic building, constructed between1850 and 1871, stands where once there wasQueen Matilda’s Castle of Savignano.Patients, who came from all over the worldfor the Count’s treatment, were originallyhoused in the Rocchetta, but it was soonnecessary to build a series of “healthcabins” in the nearby village of Archetta, onthe road to La Scola.


Rocchetta Mattei


Among the many villages in the territory ofGrizzana, Scola di Vimignano, one of the bestconserved in the Apennines is worth a visit.Easy to reach by car from Riola following indi-cations for Campolo and Montòvolo, it canalso be reached on foot in an hour along thepaths which cut through the surroundingwoods. Originally a Byzantine military structu-re (6th century), the village then took on theappearance we can see today. There are nota-ble examples of the typical tower-houses builtfor defence and the sculptures and sandstonetiles carved with the archaic symbols of theMaestri comacini (an ancient Guild of Master-builders and Stonemasons - page 71). In thelower part of the village, a beautiful cypressstill survives. Together with the nearby Oratory,it is considered one of the symbols of Scola.During the summer, the village hosts severalcultural events, including some important con-certs of ancient and Baroque music, which findtheir natural environment in these surroun-dings where time stands still. We can also findwitnesses of Maestri comacini’s works inTudiano, where there is the Romanesque Ora-tory (1100) that houses a 14th-century fresco.

Nature, art and religion meet along thepaths of the Montovolo Provincial Park.On the peak of what has since Etruscantimes been known as the “Sacred Moun-tain”, there is the most ancient sanctuary ofthe Bolognese area, with an oratory builtaccording to the wishes of the Crusaders.Of particular interest among the fauna inthe Park are the birds: there is a high num-ber of very rare species, above all nestingbirds. At least 7 nesting species of greatinterest have been seen (Hobby, PeregrineFalcon, Lanner Falcon, Royal Eagle, Nightjar,Woodlark, Lesser Grey Shrike), while amongthe rare and endangered nesting speciesthere are the Hoopoe, Wryneck andKestrel. For anyone wishing to sleep or sim-ply eat in the Park, next to the church thereis a stone building built by local stonema-sons, an inn which can accommodate up to30 people. Info: Comune di GrizzanaMorandi Tel. 051.6730311

Nature

Scola di Vimignano

Photo by Comune di Grizzana Morandi

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For nature-lovers, we suggest excursions toMonte Vigese (1126 metres), with its threepeaks. On the peak of Montovolo (962metres), there is the centre of the homony-mous Park, with the ancient Sanctuary of theMadonna of Montovolo, probably built on apagan temple. The present church is the workof Maestri comacini (an ancient Guild ofMaster-builders and Stonemasons) and con-tains a statue of the Madonna with Child anda Byzantine cross. The oldest part of thechurch dates back to the 8th century and isvery similar to a crypt. Nearby, there is ano-ther important example of sacred architectu-re linked to the history of the Crusaders andthe 13th-century Oratory of Santa Caterina,near which there is a splendid view.

Montovolo, the Crusaders and the ViaFrancigena.The Oratory of Santa Caterina of Alessan-dria, a Romanesque jewel, was not built onMontovolo by chance. Many men from theApennines took part in the Crusades, and inparticular that of 1217 to conquer Damietta,near Mount Sinai. Sinai has two peaks, thatof Moses and that of Santa Caterina ofAlessandria. Once they had returned home,the Crusaders could not help but noticethe similarity of Monte Vigese to theMount of Moses and of Montovolo to thepeak of Santa Caterina. Thus the decisionto build a church on Montovolo to remem-ber the conquest of Sinai. The work is byMaestri comacini (an ancient Guild ofMaster-builders and Stonemasons). Theirpresence in these mountains in the 3rd cen-tury was very rare, while in the previouscentury they had been working in Pisa andin other Tuscan cities, so it is probable thatthe Bolognese Crusaders had seen theirwork. A plausible hypothesis, if one thinksthat Pisa was the boarding port forPalestine. Their journey to reach Pisa follo-wed the Via Francigena della Sambuca(where there is now the Porrettana high-way) as far as Pistoia. And in 1145, a relic ofSan Giacomo was brought to Pistoia, wherehe was known as San Jacopo, making thecity one of the most important points inItaly on the Santiago Trail. So we can imagi-ne the Crusaders and Lombard pilgrims fol-lowing the Via Francigena della Sambuca,passing Montovolo, an image of the HolyLand, going towards Pistoia, an image ofSantiago. So the journey along the Via Fran-cigena (or Francesca) della Sambuca was asort of mini-pilgrimage towards a nearbySantiago and a sort of local Holy Land.

History and Culture

RiolaSfrappola Festival, a procession in medievalcostume from the Rocchetta Mattei: 1° MayZuccherino Festival and the “Palio deiSomari” (Donkey Races), food stalls, elec-tion of the Zuccherino King: 5th August.

Pian di SettaOnion Festival: May

CampoloTartufesta (Truffle Festival): late Octoberand early November

MARKET DAY: Sunday

Events

The Zuccherini Montanari are fragrantbiscuits, flavoured with aniseed and coveredwith icing made of sugar and star aniseliqueur. Usually prepared for weddings andconfirmations, tradition dictates that fian-cés take them to friends and relatives’ hou-ses to announce their wedding, while forconfirmations it was the duty of the sántola(godmother) to prepare necklaces of themto place round the children’s necks.Recognized as “Traditional” by the Ministryof Agriculture, the zuccherino is producedin the areas of Sasso Marconi, Marzabotto,Vergato, Grizzana Morandi, Castel di Casio,Camugnano, Castel d’Aiano, Gaggio Monta-no, Porretta Terme, Lizzano in Belvedere,Granaglione, Pianoro, Monterenzio, Loiano,Monzuno, Monghidoro, San Benedetto Valdi Sambro, Castiglione dei Pepoli, Monte-veglio, Monte San Pietro, Savigno, Casalfiu-manese, Borgo Tossignano, Fontanelice andCastel del Rio. A must at village fairs, theyhave also been central to the Sagra (Festival)dello Zuccherino and the Palio dei Somari(Donkey Races) on the 15th August inGrizzana since 1951.

Gastronomy and Wine

Zuccherini montanari

Photo by Comune di Porretta Terme - Stefano Capitani

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Camugnano is in the middle of the countrysidein a beautiful area of the mountains. Here it isnot only the county town, but all the little vil-lages and farmhouses, or even the origins oftheir names, that breathe thousands of years oflocal history, reminding us about noble families,different cultures and religions: from the Etru-scans to the Celts, the Romans to the Lombards.

The territory of Camugnano is situated bet-ween the three artificial basins of Suviana,Brasimone and Santa Maria, created in theearly 20th century for hydroelectric energyand today beautiful lakes in the heart of aprotected area. Within the Regional Park ofthe Lakes, there are the areas of Bargi,Chiapporato, Stagno and Baigno to visit.

12 kilometres from Camugnano there is Bargi,famous for its metalwork and its tradition ofweapon production. From the 7th to the 8th

century, Bargi was the home of the Acqua-fresca, famous makers of firearms and pistols,whose masterpieces are today displayed inthe museums of Turin and Birmingham. In the hamlet of Ca’ Melati, Palazzo Comelli,a fortified castle-house from the mid-18th cen-tury which is still intact, is absolutely worthvisiting. One of the most important buildingsin the area, it is also one of the most signifi-cant examples of the architectural culture ofthe Bolognese mountains. Nearby, a picnicarea with facilities is the starting point forthree enchanting walks, indicated by signs ofdifferent colours. Among these, a particularlyinteresting excursion is to the waterfalls ofRio Malsacco, created in the Fifties by theForestry Service with a dam in local stone.

A curious fate befell the beautiful bridge atCinghi di Bargi e Suviana: built in 1776 on aproject by the architect Gian GiacomoDotti, today it finds itself directly below thelarge dam of Suviana.

Immersed in the ancient chestnut woods onthe slopes of Monte Calvi, on the borderwith Tuscany, there is the picturesque villageof Chiapporato. Completely isolated sincethe 18th century, today only one family livesthere. Worth visiting is the Oratory of S.Maria della Neve and its small cemetery.

Camugnano

The Maestri comaciniThe denomination “Maestri comacini”, citedin the writings of Rotari (643 AD) and Liut-prando (713 AD), refers to the workforceorganized by the corporation of stonemasons and master builders. The term“comacino” derives from Como, their pro-bable origins. In a period in which buildingin wood was prevalent, the Maestri comaci-ni became precious custodians of the art ofstone building. Their decorative style evo-kes archaic symbols, often passed downfrom classical culture and inspired by thegreat efforts of the peasant world, such asthe hemispherical “mamma” which bringsprosperity and the “faccioni” which symbo-lically substitute the ancient custom ofburying the bodies of sacrificial victimsunder the foundations of houses. Thus thehouses became “case-amuleto” (blessedhouses), capable of propitiating nature andkeeping danger away. The “Comacino” tradi-tion spread from the early 4th century overmost of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. Twosplendid examples are the Church ofPanico, perhaps their masterpiece in theBolognese mountains, and the village of LaScola. The Elmi family settled in theCamugnano area, leaving many still-visibleexamples of “Comacino” art, such as CasaElmi in Carpineta, the Torre di Berto Elmi inRoda, the Sanctuary of Montovolo and thevillage of Affrico (Gaggio Montano).

History and Culture

Palazzo Comelli

Photo by Comune di Camugnano - Flavio Gardini

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Stagno is in a splendid position overlookingthe lake of Suviana and the Limentra valley.Originally the feudal capital of the Lombardfamily of the Stagnesi, it was passed on toQueen Matilde of Canossa and was the sub-ject of battles for its control, due to its impor-tant strategic position. For a period it was alsounder the dominion of the Counts of Panico(page 63).

Worth visiting in Baigno is the Church of S.Stefano, with works by the Schools of Reniand Guercino. In the village of Baigno Grosso,there is a typical fountain, the Fontana delDoccione, epicentre of economic and sociallife in the past.

The villages of Guzzano and Prédolo are alsoworth visiting.

Guzzano, the ancient Fundus Acutinianus, istoday a small village in the Limentra valley.The lovely parish church, the Pieve di S.Pietro, has its origins in the 6th century andmore recent elements from the mid-19th cen-tury. There are also some political murals,making the village a sort of miniatureBolognese Orgosolo.

The River Limentra and its valleyThe Limentra di Treppio starts near Pistoiaand in 1933, near Suviana (Castel di Casio), itwas blocked by the imposing dam whichcreated the basin of Suviana. The Limentrathen flows through a narrow valley directlybelow Suviana, the Gola di Castrola, whichslowly widens as it gets closer to joining theReno. The Limentra valley is a place whereyou can still find truly wild and isolatednature, accessible only to people ready tofollow tortuous routes, possibly with thehelp of a guide. After 31 kms, the Limentraflows into the Reno below Riola, havingpassed the fairytale Rocchetta Mattei andbeen fed by numerous other smaller riversand burns, in particular from the massif ofMonte Vigese (1,091 mts). The best view ofits valley can be enjoyed from Serra delloZanchetto, from where you can also reachthe ruins of a castle, Castello di Mogone,the final residence of the Counts of thefamily Alberti, also known as the Lords ofPrato. There is a local legend about a goldencalf which lies hidden among the ruins witha devil guarding it.

Canoeing - Rafting - SailingFor lovers of canoeing and kayaking thereare many opportunities to affront both dif-ficult descents and quieter journeys, star-ting from Lake Suviana, where there is anew sailing centre “Centro Velico Querceti”,thanks to which sailing is now accessible toeveryone. Info: www.comune.camugnano.bo.itThe king of canoeing in the Apennines isthe Limentra, a lively affluent of the upperReno, whose fast water puts canoeists’ abi-lities to the test. The national Canoe andKayak Federation holds its meeting here, anoccasion in which the most insidious stret-ches are checked by export observers for ahair-raising descent in absolute safety. Info: www.riverland.itwww.canoaclubbologna.it


Nature

Sailing on Lake Suviana

Photo by Comune di Camugnano

The borough of Vigo catches the eye for theparticular geological formation, called the“Sasso di Vigo”, on whose slopes stands theChurch of S. Stefano. In Predolo di Vigo, therestand two tower-houses from the 15th century,one of which was turned into a convent in themid-17th century. There are some notable archi-tectural details, such as the portal and a 14th-century window, unique examples in theBolognese mountains. In the village, in a splen-did natural open-air setting, it is possible tovisit the museum housing the works of thesculptor Luigi Faccioli, made using local stone.

The Limentra valley is today one of thefavourite sites for sporting tourism in theApennines, thanks to the water flowing fromthe Suviana dam, which permits canoeing, raf-ting and hydrospeed boating.

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Stretching along the hills between theLimentra and Brasimone rivers, the RegionalPark of the Lakes is based around the twolarge basins of Suviana and Brasimone. Thelakes have numerous picnic spots along theshores and, as well as an extensive network oftrails, canoeing and windsurfing are possible,making the park a pleasant summer touristattraction. The symbol of the park is the deer,a noble inhabitant of the area: in September,during the mating season, guided excursionsare organised in the evening to experience themoving vocal duels between stags. Particularlyfascinating is the abandoned village ofChiapporato, while in Bargi, Baigno, Badi andStagno there is ample evidence of their medie-val past. Among the peaks, the ridge formed byMonte Calvi (1,283 mts) and Monte di Stagnoseparates the valleys of the rivers Brasimoneand Limentra di Treppio, the main sources ofthe two lakes. Oak, beech and conifer woodsalmost entirely cover the slopes and sandsto-ne rocks of the western cliffsof the Brasimone basin, crea-ting the spectacular Cinghidelle Mogne. In the woodson the gentler slopes, thereare vast meadows, in the

past left to pasture. Denser chestnut woodssurround Mogne and Poranceto, where there istheMuseum of the Woods. Of particular inte-rest is the complex technological system con-trolling the hydroelectric plant of Suviana,where there is the “Laboratorio delle acque”(Water Laboratory), and Brasimone, whichhosts an information centre set up by theItalian Agency for New Technologies, Energyand the Environment (Enea).

Park Centre P.zza Kennedy 10 - 40032 Camugnano (BO)Tel. 0534.46712 - Fax [email protected]/parco.suviana.brasimoneMuseum of the Woods Poranceto area, Barceda.Tel. 0534.46712 Opening times: April-May-September-October: Sunday 2-6.30pm; June-July: Saturday 9am-1pm, Sunday 2-6.30pm;August: every day except Monday 9.30am-1pm, 2-6.30pmBrasimone Research CentreOpening times: weekdays 9 am-5 pm. To booka guided visit:Tel. 0534.801390/[email protected]

Nature

Events

As you are discovering the territory ofCamugnano, along the beautiful panora-mic road between Grizzana Morandi andCastel di Casio, remember that you arepassing through one of the richest areas ofporcini mushrooms and truffles in theApennines. The White Truffle of Camu-gnano in particular is absolutely excellentand of extraordinary quality and can befound in abundance throughout the area.You can taste it in specialized restaurantsin the area all year round, or in autumn onoccasion of the Tartufesta.

Gastronomy and Wine

Fieragricola, exhibition of farming goodsand equipment; craftwork market anddemonstrations of ancient skills; market oflocal produce: SeptemberFestival of San Martino, typical produceand local craftwork: NovemberTartufesta (Truffle Festival): NovemberBaigno and Burzanella Chestnut Festival: October

River Limentra Wild Water Women’s Day,national touristcanoeing meeting: MayLake Suviana“Parco dei Laghi” Olympic Triathlon: JuneMotoraduno (Motorbike meeting): JulyBaigno di CamugnanoHoney Festival and Flea Market: September


Adventure Park Saltapicchio Adventure Park is surroundedby the green woods of the Tuscan-EmilianApennines, in the beautiful natural settingof the Laghi di Suviana e BrasimoneRegional Park. The park offers the chance toexperience exciting paths on the trees,which have different heights and difficul-ties and have been constructed respectingthe plants, as well as the possibility to prac-tice many sports with equipment and trai-ned personnel. The park is connected toMontepizzo Adventure Park in Lizzano inBelvedere (page 83) by a shuttle service.Info: Tel. 346.6157268info@parcoavventurasaltapicchio.itwww.parcoavventurasaltapicchio.it


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From Camugnano we reach Castel di Casio, asmall centre of medieval origins, whose mainfeature is the ancient tower split verticallyin two. Built in sandstone around 1220 byGislimerio da Casio, the local lord, it was partof the walls of a fortified castle. Head-quar-ters of the Podestà and then of the Capi-tanato della Montagna (Mountain Rangers),Casio was an important trading centre forexporting mountain produce, such as wheatand chestnuts, and importing wine, oil, medi-cine, spices, and leather from Pistoia.Originally from the 16th century, La Gaggiola isone of the most beautiful architectural comple-

xes in the area. Of particular note is the tower,with the loggia and rose window in brick, typicalof the later-period towers of the Bolognesemountains. It is currently a private residence, andso only the exterior can be visited on occasionsof summer cultural events. Connected to thecomplex is the Oratory of the Madonna delCarmine. In the village of Casola, it is worthwhi-le visiting the Church of Santa Maria, also fromthe 15th century, where there is a painting attribu-ted to the school of Guido Reni.

Castel di Casio

In the Renaissance, the poet GirolamoPandolfi, known as Girolamo da Casio, wasborn here. He was the author of amongother things the Bramante epitaph. His friendGiovanni Antonio Boltraffio, a student ofLeonardo, made an interesting series of idea-lised portraits of him, in which Girolamo hasfeminine features just like John in Leonardo’sLast Supper. Defined a “renaissance dandy”,his fame is linked to Boltraffio’s paintings, ofwhich he was both buyer and subject: thePala Casio (today in the Louvre) and the por-traits in the Pinacoteca (Art Gallery) of Breraand the Uffizi Gallery. In Pian di Casale, thereis the interesting medieval Casa dei Nanni,which belonged to the poet.


Water PowerThe Suviana-Brasimone complex is the mainhydroelectric complex in the northern Apenni-nes and the second largest in all the Apennines,having levels of power and production compa-rable to the large Alpine hydroelectric stations.

Lake Brasimone is the oldest, created in 1911,with the construction of a 32-metre sandstonedam which blocked the River Brasimone nearScalere. This basin does not have a directly-connected power-station, but a suspended con-duit goes from its dam, taking water to thepower-station of Santa Maria, active since 1911on the homonymous lake. The water arrivingfrom Lake Brasimone pass through the power-station of Le Piane, which is then reconnected

to the River Brasimone.

Lake Suviana is an artificial basin, created in1932, immersed in an environment rich in woodsand springs and fed by water from the twoLimentra rivers (“di Treppio” and “della Sambu-ca”) and the Reno. Connected to it, there aretwo hydroelectric stations, that of Suviana,below the dam, and that of Bargi, built on thebanks of the lake. The Bargi power-station isresponsible for the daily cycle of generating-pumping between the two basins of Suvianaand Brasimone, through two enormous high-pressure tunnels: by day the conduits dischargewater into Lake Suviana, producing energy(generating phase), by night they carry it back toLake Brasimone (pumping phase), so that it isready the next day to begin the cycle again.

GolfSpending a week in the woods of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, in the territory of Castel diCasio, in the area of La Prossima, could be anideal opportunity to learn the basics of golf. Asan introduction to the game and to pitch&putt,there is a school with two introductory coursesfor learning, improving and training. Technical data: 6 P&P holes par 18, 400 mts,600 mts a.s.l.La Prossima Golf SchoolVia Prostima, 2 - 40030 Castel di Casio (BO)Tel./Fax 0534.42572www.scuoladi golflaprossima.com


Science and Technique

The hamlet of Suviana leads us into the pro-tected area of the Regional Park of the Lakes(page 73) and the Suviana-Brasimone hydroe-lectric complex.

Overlooking Lake Suviana, Badi is a typicalmountain village in that it is made up of varioussmaller enclaves. The Church of San Prosperoconserves a painting of the Madonna DellaMisericordia, also known as the Madonna deiMaremmani, whose festival is celebrated onthe second Sunday of June with a solemn pro-cession through the village streets. The PerioFountain is very important for Badi, mentionedas far back as 1200 as a cure for fevers. There isalso a monumental chestnut tree worthseeing, and the Oratory of Sant’Ilario on Montedi Badi. The base of the chestnut tree has a cir-cumference of 11 metres and is perhaps 1,000years old, but even more surprising is the car-ved door which opens into the impressivetrunk. The small Church of Sant’Ilario, original-ly in possession of Queen Matilde of Canossa,has a single Romanesque nave and semicircularapse, the only intact part of the original buil-ding. Inside there are traces of frescoes perhapsdating back to the 16th century.

The director Pupi Avati, in the film Una gitascolastica (A School Trip) (1983), tells astory, contained in a dream, in which an 80-year-old woman recalls a school trip withher classmates in the spring of 1914. Thedestination of the trip is Florence, to bereached on foot across the BologneseApennines. They set off from the centre ofBologna along the Reno Valley, passingVergato, Riola and reaching Porretta Terme.From Porretta, the plot of the film followsexcursions into the chestnut woods untilthey reach the ruins of the castle of Casteldi Casio. Other films by Avati set in theApennines are Noi tre (1984) and Il testimo-ne dello sposo (1998). In the mellow atmo-sphere of the plains, particularly in Miner-bio, he has set parts of La casa dalle finestreche ridono (1976) and Le strelle nel fosso(1978).


Medieval Festival, in the streets they holda historical recreation of ancient splen-dours linked to the Lords of Stagno.Characters in medieval costume passthrough the cobbled streets of the villageand take part in the staging and re-evoca-tion of ancient workshops and their crafts.There are also stalls where you can try the

typical dishes of the Apennines: in the firstweekend after the 15th August

Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): in Octoberand November

BadiHospitality Festival: Augustwww.prolocobadi.it

Events

Chestnut tree in Monte di Badi

Photo by Comune di Camugnano - Alfredo Verardi

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Castel di Casio is a member of the NationalAssociation “Città del Tartufo” (Truffle Cities).

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Our itinerary to discover the Reno Valley now goes back to where we left it. So let’s start againfrom Vergato, continuing to the left of the Reno up to the highest of the Apennine ranges, gui-ded by the elegant profile of Corno alle Scale.

Towards the highest Apennine ranges:- Castel d’Aiano- Gaggio Montano- Lizzano in Belvedere - Porretta Terme- Granaglione

In the background: the Corno alle Scale

Photo by Rugletto Belvederiani

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Castel d’Aiano is surrounded by clearly moun-tainous countryside. At an altitude of 805metres a.s.l., Castel d’Aiano is the highestcounty town in the Province of Bologna and issituated on the watershed of the Reno andPanaro rivers.

The fortified settlement of Aiano began bet-ween the 7th and 8th centuries dominating theterritory. Situated on border land, it was for along time an issue of dispute betweenModena and Bologna, who in the end succee-ded in gaining control.

1 kilometre from the town centre, it is worthvisiting the Sanctuary of Brasa, built entirelyof tuff from the Grotte (Caves) of Labante.

In the village of Rocca di Roffeno, the Churchof San Martino conserves a Deposition attri-buted to Calvaert. The Romanesque apse atthe base of the bell-tower is evidence of the13th-century origins of the sacred building. In the Middle Ages, the church and Monasteryof Santa Lucia (Info: Tel. 051.912742) were theadministrative centre of the whole territory.They were built as a fort and their presentappearance is due to rebuilding in the 15thcentury. Also in Rocca di Roffeno, there is theancient Monzone manse, where in the thir-ties, the painter Giorgio Morandi (page 68)passed a particularly creative season.

In Labante, in the area of San Cristoforo, in thevalley of the River Aneva, there are the famouscaves of Labante. Easily visible from the road,the caves have an atmospheric waterfall abovethem. It is precisely the water of this waterfallwhich created the charming limestone rocks,called “sponga” (sponge), used by the Etrus-

cans for the necropolis of Marzabotto. Thegeological and naturalistic characteristicswere also of great interest to travellers in cen-turies gone by, and in fact, the caves ofLabante are the earliest natural caves in theBolognese area to have writing in them. Thecaves (always open) are in a lovely park, a star-ting point for trekking and mountain biking.

In the same area, there is still a functioninggrain-mill, the Mulino del Povolo , well wortha visit.

The area of Villa d’Aiano is rich of water cour-ses which are skirted by natural courses suchas “Il Sentiero degli Ontani” and “L’Orridodi Gea”.

Castel d’Aiano

TheCaves of Labante, classified SIC (site ofEuropean Community Importance), from ageological point of view, are a primary for-mation of travertine, a particular karst phe-nomenon. They are among the largestexamples in Europe. In fact, this type of for-mation does not normally exceed 4-5metres, but in Labante, this figure is easilyexceeded. In fact, the whole territory of theReno Valley has morphology linked to karstphenomena and it is not unusual to findcaves, wells and dolinas, such as the Grottadelle Spugne in Cereglio and the Grotte diSoprasasso in Riola.

Nature

Little waterfall and cave of Labante

Photo by Comune di Castel d’Aiano

Monastery of Santa Lucia


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Castel d’Aiano, land of nativity scenes In this area there is a well-rooted tradition:the nativity is recreated every year in a diffe-rent way, in the county town as well as in thesmaller towns. In Castel D’Aiano, the nativityscene is notable for the faithful reconstruc-tion of the countryside of Palestine, while inVilla D’Aiano, the mechanical aspect is preva-lent. But the most impressive is probably thelive nativity scene recreated at the Caves ofLabante. In the Christmas period, it is alsopossible to admire a collection of nativityscenes in the nearby parish church of SantaMaria di Labante. Info: Tel. 051.6735718

History and Culture

The Borlengo is a very large, thin, crunchypastry prepared with an extremely simpleliquid base of water, flour, egg and salt,which is then cooked in the rola (sun). It isserved with cunza - a mixture of bacon,lard, garlic and rosemary - and sprinkledwith parmesan. Folded in four, it is servedpiping hot. It can only be found in a narrowband of the Apennines, which includes pla-ces on the border between the provincesof Bologna (Castello di Serravalle, Savignoand Castel d’Aiano) and Modena. Somepeople believe the borlengo to be theresult of a “burla” (trick) played on a house-wife who was preparing the traditionalpastry for “tigelle” (small savoury pancakes)with flour and water. Finding the pastryexcessively liquid as the result of somejoke played on her, the woman did not loseheart and managed to create somethingdecent to eat anyway. Others believe it tobe typical of carnival: hence the name bor-lengo, “food for tricks”. Anything but easyto prepare, this speciality can only befound in special restaurants in the area orat the festival dedicated to it every year inCastel d’Aiano. A variation of the borlengois the Zampanella, prepared in the areas ofGaggio Montano, Lizzano in Belvedere andPorretta Terme, which uses a thicker pastry.

Gastronomy and Wine

Mushroom Festival, for over twenty years,with an extensive exhibition and food stalls:in JulyFerragosto casteldaianese, an evening ofmusic and shows with fireworks: 15th AugustMotofest, motor rally for all types ofmotorbikes: third weekend of AugustTartufesta (Truffle Festival): October/NovemberRocca di RoffenoGrand Show of fireworks set to music:second or third Saturday of JulyBorlengo Festival: first Sunday of June

Villa D’AianoFesta della Madonna delle Grazie, exhibi-tions, market, shows and fantastic fireworks:third Sunday of August

Santa Maria di LabanteCave Festival: in JulyThreshing Festival, ancient cratfs- As itused to be…, threshing with the traditionalmethods of the past: last Sunday of July

MARKET DAY: Sunday

Events

Zampanelle


As we are discovering the territory, weshould not forget that from 1944 to 1945these mountains were part of the GothicLine (page 160): history lovers will find parti-cularly interesting the large MultimediaModel-Exhibition of the Gothic Line whichrecreates the most important moments ofthe last great front line of the Second WorldWar. Info: Tel. 051.6735718

As well as the Model, it is also possible tovisit trenches and battle sites, starting withthe complex of Torre Jussi.

The large chestnut woods which dominatethe countryside have an undergrowth rich inexcellent mushrooms. The gastronomy of the territory, as well asthe excellent dishes typical of the wholevalley, has a tasty surprise in store in theancient recipe of “borlenghi”.

Gaggio Montano is a quiet place in a beautiful,strategic position on one of the highest peaks ofthe Apennines. Towards Lizzano stand outsMonte Belvedere, bench march of the GermanGothic Line (page 160).

Of Lombard origins, its ancient name was“Gaium Reginae” in honour of Geltrude, the wifeof King Astolfo. In the Middle Ages, Gaggio wasat the centre of an important road, the ViaCassìola: also known as the little Cassia, the roadconnected the Abbey of Nonantola withTuscany, passing through the Samoggia Valleyand over the mountain range near Capugnano(Porretta Terme).

The town is dominated by the Sasso di Rocca,where there was one of the two castles of Gag-gio and there has been the Faro della Vittoria(Victory Lighthouse) since 1952. Built in memoryof the mountains’ Fallen, its panoramic viewpointoffers one of the best views of the area. Of parti-cular note, there is the Church of Saints Micheleand Nazario, from the 19th century with worksfrom the 16th to the 18th century, as well as theRenaissance buildings in the town centre, espe-cially that of the Tanari, the lords of this land.

Gaggio Montano

Parmigiano - Reggiano DOP (Parmesan) isone of the best-known and most-imitatedItalian gastronomic artisan products in theworld. The production zone includes theprovinces of Parma, Reggio-Emilia, Modena,Bologna (to the left of the Reno) and Mantua(to the right of the Po). Parmigiano Reggiano,in the Bolognese area called simply “forma”,has been produced with milk exclusivelyfrom local cattle farms for more than sevencenturies. In fact, it has ancient origins, goingback to Roman times. However, the best-known and most precise testimony comesfrom Boccaccio. In the Decameron, he men-tions Parmesan, describing what is still todayits most classic use - grated onto pasta. TheBolognese creameries, some selling directlyto the public, are all in the Reno andSamoggia Valleys. For more information andguided visits to the creameries: Consorzio Parmigiano ReggianoTel. [email protected]

Gastronomy and Wine

Gaggio is a mirage, Hunters’ Festival: July.Festival of the Rooster, Farmers’ Festival:July/August.Grand Summer Gala: August.

In PietracoloraLive Nativity scene: Christmas Eve.

MARKET DAY: Sunday

Events

Ca’ del Ponte and Arco Tanari

Photo by Comune di Gaggio Montano

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The local gastronomic tradition is also notewor-thy, linked in particular to the famous produc-tion of Parmigiano Reggiano.

Affrico (17 km from Gaggio) is perhaps the mostbeautiful in the area. Its parish church is mentio-ned in documents dating back to 969 AD, whilethe Church of San Giovanni Battista has a Baptismof Christ attributed to the Bolognese FrancescoAlbani on its high altar. Another notable buildingis Palazzo d’Affrico, the work of Maestri comacini(page 71), consisting of various medieval tower-houses. Always in the Marano Valley there is theCastellaccio, a 15th century fortified building.

In Rocca Pitigliana what strikes the eye is theChurch of San Michele Arcangelo and its belltower which are built in unison with a rocky out-crop. On the right hand side of the rock, there isan atmospheric passage leading into the church.

In Silla there is a water-mill for milling cereal andchestnuts which is still functioning.

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Lizzano in Belvedere is one of the main tou-rist spots in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines,set among some of the highest Bolognesepeaks. The most dominant is Corno alleScale, touching 2000 metres and giving its

name to a large natural park, as well as ahigh-level skiing complex, where the greatskiing champion Alberto Tomba honed histalents.

Lizzano in Belvedere

Corno alle Scale (1,945 metres a.s.l.) is thehighest mountain in the Province of Bologna,although it can also be easily reached fromthe direction of Modena and Pistoia. Themain road comes up from Vidiciatico alongthe valley of the River Dardagna and endsshortly after the Rifugio (shelter) of LakeCavone at about 1,500 metres a.s.l. Themountain has notably different sides: whilethe southern and north-western slopes arecovered with meadows, the north-easternside is particularly inaccessible and has spec-tacular, almost-vertical cliff faces with rockycrags, called the Balzi dell’Ora, at about 1,000metres rising straight up from the Silla Valley,cliff faces without equal in the Apennines,

with the possible exception of Abruzzo. Onthe peak, near the ravine which dropstowards the Balzi dell’Ora, there is a largemetal cross, visible for kilometres. The viewfrom there is one of the vastest in Italy: on aparticularly clear day, apart from both theAdriatic and Tyrrhenian Seas and almost allof the curve of the Alps, you can even makeout Monte Cinto, in Corsica, and the peak ofthe Terminillo, in Lazio. In a basin just belowthe summit, at 1,775 metres a.s.l., there is LakeScaffaiolo, one of the highest lakes in theApennine range, a point where many pathsconverge. Near its banks, there is the “Ducadegli Abruzzi” Shelter of the Bologna CAI,the first one to be built in the northernApennines.

Nature

Summit of Corno alle Scale

Photo by Corno alle Scale Park - Massimo Barbi

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The Sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Acerowas built in 1500 on the site of a maple treenext to which the Madonna appeared totwo young shepherds, saving them from asnowstorm. An image attached to the treesoon gained a cult following, which stillcontinues to this day in the Sanctuary.Inside the church, restored in the 20th cen-tury, among the many ex voto, you can see“I Brunori”, a set of wooden sculptures recal-ling the near-death experience of one ofthe Brunori family in the Battle of Gavinanain 1530 against the troops of Carlo V. In themiddle of a forest, it is a good starting pointfor excursions to the Dardagna waterfalls,Corno alle Scale and Lake Scaffaiolo.

Sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Acero

Photo by Corno alle Scale Park - Massimo Barbi

Shepherd of the Apennines - Photo by Rugletto Belvederiani

In the territory of Lizzano, however, it is notonly nature that offers such satisfaction. Youonly have to visit the ancient proto-Romane-sque building, the Delubro bizantino (alsocalled the “Rotonda”) or even better, theSanctuary of the Madonna dell’Acero, notfar from Vidiciatico.

History and Culture

SnowHalfway between Bologna and Florence, theCorno alle Scale Ski Centre offers a largearea of high level services for the Apennines.At a height of between 1,358 and 1,945metres, with 36 kilometres of slopes (amongwhich the longest one of the Apennines),here you can ski 150 days a year. Such is thequality of the slopes that the centre hashosted international competitions and allo-

wed Alberto Tomba to reach the formnecessary to win world medals. Many peo-ple come to do snowboarding and there arenumerous opportunities for enjoymentaway from the slopes, such as disappearinginto the heart of the park along the cross-country tracks. A shuttle-bus connects theslopes to the Porretta Terme railway stationand towns and villages in the area. Thanks torecent demolishment of barriers, the slopesare now accessibile to everyone.


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Skirama

archivio Corno alle Scale Iniziative Turistiche

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Skirama - Photo by Corno alle Scale Iniziative Turistiche

Adventure ParkMontepizzo Adventure Park is surrounded bythe green woods of the Tuscan-EmilianApennines, in the beautiful natural setting ofthe Corno alle Scale Park.The park offers the chance to experience exci-ting paths on the trees, which have differentheights and difficulties and have been con-structed respecting the plants. The park is

accessible and partially usable from disabledpeople and wheelchairs. Equipped vehiclesavailable. For blind people, all paths have illu-strations and signs in Braille.The park is accessible by public transport andconnected to Saltapicchio Adventure Park inCamugnano (page 73) by a shuttle service.

Info: Tel. 346.7227076 – 346.7228610www.montepizzo-adventurepark.it


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Dardagna waterfalls

Photo by Corno alle Scale Park - Enrico Pasini

On the “Passo delle Radici” state road 324,along the Dardagna Valley, we come to RoccaCorneta. A possession of the Monastery of S.Pietro of Modena, even though its inhabitantsswore loyalty in 1197 to the Council of Bologna,Federico II temporarily gave it back to Modena

in 1226. On a steep sandstone hill, there is anancient tower (14th century), which in the earlyyears of the 14th century proved impregnableeven to the Counts of Panico. Nearby, theChurch of S. Martino contains an ancient imageof the Madonna with Child in papier-maché,which attracts large numbers of pilgrims.

Rocca Corneta

Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Manuela Malaguti

The flavours of Corno alle ScaleThe mountain range around Corno alle Scale isthe southernmost limit of various alpine mea-dow plant species: the pastureland here haselements which do not exist in the centre-south Apennines and which are reflected inthe produce of these mountains. The sheep’smilk cheese, for example, has something par-ticular and original about it, enhanced by theuse - still today - of unpasteurized milk. Speak-ing of cheese, let us not forget that Lizzano isthe extreme south-eastern point of the pro-duction area of Parmigiano Reggiano (Parme-san): the rearing techniques and the composi-tion of the pasture give the milk particular fla-vours, as can be tasted in the most famousItalian cheese. And then there is the fish: thequality of the Char, similar to trout, reared infarms approved by the Slow Food organisation,makes it one of the most appreciated freshwa-ter fish to eat. Not forgetting the forest fruits:throughout the Park there are wild strawber-ries, blueberries, blackcurrants, redcurrants,juniper berries, raspberries and elderberries.The combination of their goodness with the

purity of the environment is ideal for marma-lade, jam, conserved fruit, distillation, liquor,grappa and other genuine, typical producefrom ancient traditional recipes. The mountai-n’s slopes are also rich in therapeutic herbsused in infusions and medicines, as well as fortasty seasoning and natural perfumes.

The chestnuts of Corno alle ScaleSince time immemorial, the majestic chestnuttrees have been a source of sustenance for thepopulation of the territory, both as wood toburn and, above all, as a food source. The typi-cal chestnut of the Park of Corno alle Scale isknown for its innumerable varieties: from thewild chestnut called the “Salvano allaMascarino”, to the “Lòiola” (used for roasting),the “Pastanesa” (covered with a light downand used in the preparation of flour) to the“Sborgà”. There are many ways to enjoy thechestnuts: boiled (ballotti), roasted on anopen fire (frugiate), or dried to obtain flourwith which to make polenta, fritters, cakes,ciacci (flat bread) and patolle (a pastry ofwater and chestnut flour cooked in terracottaor iron moulds).

Gastronomy and Wine

Between the Silla and Dardagna rivers at thefoot of Monte Grande, surrounded by mar-vellous chestnut, pine, fir and beech woods,Vidiciatico, together with Lizzano, is rich intourist resources, an ideal starting point forthe ski-slopes and trekking of the UpperApennines. Of the defensive system whichguarded these ridges in the Middle Ages, inthe hamlet remains only a tower, which laterbecame the base for a bell-tower. In the stri-king small square of the Ancient Village, inwhich we can enter through four depressedvaults, lies a small fountain and behind it

there is a 19th century votive aedicule. Among numerous water springs and ancientmills in Lizzano area, near Poggiolforato(page 86) is worth visiting, the Mulino delCapo, with original round chimneypots, sur-mounted by sculptured figures named“mummies”.

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The Regional Park of Corno alle ScaleA mountain range park with spectacularalpine scenery surrounds the massif ofCorno alle Scale. Largely forest-covered,the park is home to numerous protectedbotanical species, such as the Alpine Starand the “Bear’s Ear” (Primula Auricula).Animals are also numerous and easy tospot, from mouflons and marmots to royaleagles. It is also possible to take part inwolf-population monitoring using thetechnique of wolf howling. There arenumerous opportunities for sports whate-ver the season, from the more classic tothe more unusual, such as paragliding orcountry archery. The whole territory has anetwork of well-indicated trails, sheltersand bivouacs, and an excursion to thewaterfalls, the Cascate del Dardagna,should not be missed. Fascinating for boththeir wonderful position and their history,there are the Sanctuaries of the Madonnadell’Acero and the Madonna del Faggio.Examples of mountain-style architecturecan be seen in the villages of Pianaccio,birth town of Enzo Biagi, Poggiolforato andMonteacuto delle Alpi, where there is abreathtaking view of the Corno summit.Consorzio gestione del ParcoVia Roma, 1 - Pianaccio di Lizzano inBelvedere (BO) Tel. 0534.51761 - Fax 0534.51763info@parcocornoallescale.itwww.parcocornoallescale.itwww.parks.it/parco.corno.scale

Nature

View from the summit of Corno alle Scale

Photo by Comune di Lizzano in Belvedere - Ares Cremonini

MTB - Cycling in the Corno alle ScaleMountain lovers and anyone looking foruncontaminated environments in whichto pass their free time mountain-biking inpeace should definitely come to Cornoalle Scale. Cycling in the Corno alle Scalearea means being able to choose fromnumerous itineraries, suitable for all bi-kers, winding through woods, along thehigh Tuscan-Emilian range or throughancient villages, going deep into the mostbeautiful and least visited parts of theRegional Park. The itineraries are all indi-cated with different-coloured signs andyou can ask for a detailed map, availablefree from the tourist information officesin Lizzano and Vidiciatico.


Mountain Bike in the Park of Corno alle Scale

Photo by Corno alle Scale Bike

Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): late Octoberand early November

VidiciaticoGiughence la campana: 14th August.

Madonna dell’AceroFestival of the Madonna dell’Acero: 5th August

QuerciolaQuerciola Fair: first Sunday of September

MARKET DAY: Thursday in Lizzano, Friday in Vidiciatico

Events

Between the 13th and 14th centuries, theBolognese Senate planned and dug a canal tocarry water from the Dardagna into the Silla,to facilitate the transport of timber directlyto Bologna. This work, of which only vaguetraces remain, gave its name to the village ofPoggiolforato, a pretty borough of stone

Giovanni Carpani Museum


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Also worth a visit is the village of Monte-acuto delle Alpi, sheltering around a minu-scule lower peak below the massif of Cornoalle Scale. Wonderfully preserved, in theMiddle Ages it was so strategically impor-tant that in the stipulation of a peace agree-ment between Bologna and Pistoia, thesignature of one of its representatives wasalso required.

houses with sandstone-slated roofs andstrange round chimneypots typical of theDardagna Valley. Here there is the “G.Carpani” Ethnographic Museum, with a recon-struction of a typical mountain kitchen, withthe so-called “king of the fireplaces”, one ofthe largest in the Apennines of Emilia.

THE “GIOVANNI CARPANI” ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUMCreated from the collection of testimonies ofmountain culture starter in 1965 by GiovanniCarpani, this museum is one of the visitors’ cen-tres of the Regional Park of Corno alle Scale. Itillustrates the various productive activities of thearea (chestnuts, sheep farming, weaving, craft-work), the religious traditions and the rituals lin-ked to ancient beliefs. In the building attached,the various rooms of a traditional house havebeen recreated.

GIOVANNI CARPANI ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUMPoggiolforato40042 Lizzano in Belvedere (BO) Tel. 0534.54366 - Fax [email protected]

Opening times: January to June andSeptember to December, Saturday andSunday 2.30pm-5.30pm. July and August,Saturday and Sunday 3pm-6pm. Closed onMarch. Free entrance..

Museums

Leaving Lizzano in Belvedere, we return to thePorrettana highway and enter the town whichgave its name to the road and the pass throughthe Tuscan-Emilian mountain range: PorrettaTerme. Surrounded by centuries-old woods,Porretta is famous for the extraordinary pro-perties of its thermal waters which still todaymake it an important capital of wellness andhealth care.

The structures have each been built on theirrespective springs, leading to suggestivenames. There are the Terme Alte, a prettycomplex of 18th and 19th century buildings shel-tering in the narrow valley of the MaggioreRiver behind the town centre, with the Bovi,Leone, Marte and Donzelle springs, rich in iodi-ne chloride. On the left of the Reno there arethe Acque Basse, sulphurous and lightly mine-ralized, from the Porretta Vecchia, PorrettaNuova, Galleria della Madonna and Puzzolasprings, whose spas date back to 1948-49.

Porretta Terme

The Terme di Porretta, used by the Etruscansand Romans, have two thousand years ofhistory and legends. Such as the one whichtells of a sick ox which returned to its owner,having recovered after drinking from the“Puzzola” (“Polecat”) spring, thus leading to thediscovery of its curative properties and beco-ming its symbol. Another emblem of the spasis the lion, from the 2nd century mask foundhere and currently conserved in the B.A.M.(Museum and Historical Archives of the UpperReno). Confirming the ancient use of the sitefor health reasons, a sandstone staircase froma Roman spa has been found in the Leonecomplex. In the Renaissance, Machiavelli sta-yed here in Porretta at the time of writing theMandragola and in 1475, Giovanni Sabadinodegli Arienti set his stories Porrettane here,imagining ladies and gentlemen, gathered atthe spas, taking turns to recount 62 novellas,on the model of Boccaccio’s Decameron. Thenovellas are dedicated to Ginevra Sforza, thewife of Giovanni II Bentivoglio, Lord ofBologna, who used to spend time here withher court. Mentioned by Rabelais in Gargan-tua et Pantagruel, over the centuries the spashave also been visited by characters such asLorenzo the Magnificent, Cardinal FrancescoGonzaga followed by the painter AndreaMantegna, Giovanni Sforza Visconti, theGrand Duchess of Tuscany, Bianca Cappelloand Napoleon’s brother, Luigi Bonaparte. And,on the threshold of modern times, it was ameeting place for nobles and intellectualsfrom all over Italy in the Belle Époque.

History and Culture

above: Roman mask, emblem of the spas

below: Terme Alte


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Next to the church is the 18th century Oratoryof San Rocco, the work of Giovan Paolo Dotti,the son of the architect responsible for theBasilica of San Luca in Bologna. In Porretta Terme there is the MuseumComplex of the Upper Reno which includes:- The B.A.M. Library, Historical Archives

and the Museum of the Upper Reno

Among the most advanced in Italy, the ther-mal complexes specialize in the treatment ofdigestive, liver, respiratory, genital-urinary andskin disorders. The structure of the “CentroTermale di Prevenzione, Cura e Ria-bilitazione”is composed of 6 spas and 8 treatment cen-tres. Open all year, these specialized centresoffer thermal treatment based on baths, mudbaths, neuromotor re-education, skincare,pressure therapy, gynaecological treatment, aswell as dietary services and a Wellness Centrewith specific face and body care. Definitelyworth trying are the beauty products prepa-red with mud and thermal waters.Spas & Wellness centres of PorrettaSocietà degli Alberghi e delle Terme diPorretta S.p.a. Via Roma, 540046 Porretta Terme (BO) - Tel. 800514626www.termediporretta.it

Spas & Wellness

Thermal Park - Photo by Comune di Porretta Terme - Stefano Capitani

Today the centre of the local social life is thePuzzola-Castanea complex, whose park insummer becomes the site for cultural eventsand concerts. Just beyond the spas, there isthe Church of the Madonna del Ponte, anoctagonal structure in chiselled sandstone.The Madonna del Ponte is the patron saintof Italian basket makers, a perfect link betwe-en the Apennines and Bologna, known as“basket city” for its love of basketball.

As well as the spa complexes, elegant andwell-equipped structures distinguish theiroffer with wellness centres containing saunas,pools with Jacuzzis and personalized healthprogrammes.

The town boasts a long tradition of hospitali-ty and quite apart from the spas, there aremany other reasons to visit it: monumentsand museums, sport, prestigious events,excellent cooking and beautiful surroundings.

Of particular note is the lovely Church of SantaMaria Maddalena, built with river rocks betwe-en 1690 and 1696. The church yard, with its beau-tiful views, served for centuries as a cemetery,and there are still some old gravestones. Inside there are works by the BologneseSchool; the altarpiece is attributed to Calvaert.

Spa center - Private archive

The B.A.M. Library, Historical Archives andthe Museum of the Upper RenoVia Borgolungo, 10 - 40046 Porretta Terme (BO)Tel. [email protected] B.A.M. is the linking point for theMuseum complex of the Upper Reno. In therooms of the B.A.M., set up in the ancientmental asylum building, you can consultimportant volumes from the local historylibrary of the Associazione Nuèter - StudyGroup of the Upper Reno Valley (www.nue-ter.com), as well as using the rich collection ofnewspapers and journals to increase your kno-wledge of local history, the environment, andthe habits and customs of the mountains ofBologna and Pistoia. Thanks to its collabora-tion with the Veronica Martini Foundation, theB.A.M. has also made available texts, magazi-nes and videos dedicated to cinema, thePorretta Cinema Film Festival and the historyof the Exhibition of Free and Restored Cinema.The documentary collection continues withthe chance to see material from the PorrettaSpas Historical Archive and there is an entireroom dedicated to the Porretta Soul Festival.The B.A.M. also houses the Historical Archive,the archives of the magistracy and the healthservice. Finally, two rooms host exhibitions ofvisual art.

Museums - Science and Technique

Manservisi Castle


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- The DEMM Museum of motorbikes and mopeds

- The “LabOrantes” Ethnographic Museum in Castelluccio

- The Library- The Calvi Ironworks

In the surrounding area, the villages of Capu-gnano and Castelluccio are also worth visi-ting.

In Castelluccio it is worth visiting the Man-servisi Castle, which houses the LabOrantesMuseum. In the middle of woodlands 6 kmsfrom Castelluccio, the Sanctuary of the Ma-donna del Faggio is one of the loveliest pla-ces in the Apennines. It can be visited onSundays in summer. Recently, a shelter hasbeen created, “Le Casette del Doccione- exVivaio Monti”, run by the local council. Loversof trekking, mountain biking, orienteering(from spring to autumn), snow-shoes andcross country skiing (in winter) can find here agood place for reception, organization, equip-ment, resting (10 beds) and refreshment. Theshelter is open every day from June toSeptember and every Friday, Saturday andSunday from October to May. Close in April.It is possible to rent mountain bikes, snow-shoes and cross-country skiing. Constantsnow levelling is guaranteed along a 10 kms.ring for cross-country skiing. Orienteeringlovers can enjoy a free map of a woody area,

Land of motors:THE DEMM MUSEUM OF MOTORBIKES AND MOPEDSThe Museum exhibits more than 100 modelsand prototypes of motorbikes and mopedsproduced by DEMM between 1952 and 1982.Most important is the so-called “Siluro”,which in the Fifties broke 24 world speedrecords. The museum has a rich photographicarchive with images of the motorbikes andpast advertising campaigns of the Porrettafirm.Via Mazzini, 230/a40046 Porretta Terme (BO)Tel. 335.7214996/[email protected] Opening times: Saturday 10-12 am, 4-7 pm;Sunday 4-7 pm; weekdays with prior booking.Free entrance.

THE LABORANTES MUSEUM One wing of the Manservisi Castle in Castel-luccio contains the testimonies of local po-pular religion (from the Sanctuaries of theMadonna del Faggio and Madonna del Pon-te), together with objects linked to life andwork in the Apennines.Via Manservisi, 5 - Castelluccio40046 Porretta Terme (BO)Tel. 347.5321382Opening times: July and August 9-12am/4-7pm, and with prior booking the rest of the year.

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2 kms. wide. The trekking shelter is an idealstarting point for educational activities linkedto the Apennine flora and fauna. Qualifiedguides are available to accompany groups onevery kind of activity. Booking is advisable inhigh season.Le Casette del Doccionevia Monte Cavallo, 100 - Castelluccio40046 Porretta Terme (BO)Tel. [email protected]

Capugnano is an ancient centre, of greaterimportance up to the 16th century. It is worthvisiting the Church of San Michele, do-cumented since the 13th century and rebuiltat the end of the 17th century. The altar-pieceis attributed to the School of Guido Reni. AtCroci di Capugnano, there is the house ofGuglielmo Marconi’s father (page 59).

The territory’s cooking must also be sampled.Mushrooms, truffles, forest fruit, “crescentinefritte” (light, crumbly fried bread), “tigelle” (smallsavoury scones), chestnut polenta, “ca-stagnac-ci” (chestnut puddings), “ciacci” (chestnut flatbread), “patolle” (a pastry of water and chestnutflour cooked in terracotta or iron moulds),“stianconi” soup and the famous “Tortino diPorretta” (a doughnut-shaped lemon cake) areall part of the area’s rich “bread basket”.

Porretta Soul Festival, a historical interna-tional event bringing together the greatestSoul and Rhythm & Blues artists: Julywww.porrettasoul.itFrom Bach to Bartok, international classicalmusic concerts: in July and in AugustTartufesta (Truffle Festival): late Octoberand early NovemberPorretta Cinema, an international cinemafestival in collaboration with the Cinetecaof Bologna: Decemberwww.porrettacinema.com

CastelluccioCastelluccio in bloom: 14th and 15th August

CapugnanoFestival of the Beata Vergine della Neve: early August

Touring the MARKETS:- Every Saturday from 7am to 1pm,

traditional market, in existence for over three centuries.

- First Wednesday of every month (except July, August and September): Country Fair.

- Sundays from 15th June to 15th September:Summer Markets.

- First Wednesday after 15th August, all day: Ferragosto Fair.

EventsRufus Thomas - Porretta Soul Festival


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Here we are at the end of our Appenine itine-rary. We are in the southernmost part of theProvince of Bologna, on the border with Tu-scany. The territory of Granaglione is mostlyspread over the rocky slopes of the mountainswhich crown the western side of the RenoValley. The countryside is dominated by che-stnut, beech and conifer woods, with one ofthe greatest extensions in the province.

In Granaglione, it is worth visiting the Churchof San Niccolò, earliest references to whichdate back to 1220, and the ancient house ofthe Marconi family, whose most famous sonwas the inventor Guglielmo (page 59).

The Lombard origins of the name Granaglione,which means “well-defended observationpoint”, perfectly reflects the geographical po-sition of the town, which from its height of800 metres dominates a vast area of the RenoValley. Until 1219, these border settlements we-re civilly dependent on Pistoia, a strong Lom-bard centre, and religiously dependent on theBishop of Bologna, for whom the parish church,the Pieve di Sùccida (today Capanne) was themost important reference point in the territo-ry. Sùccida and Granaglione were then fusedtogether by the Bolognese into a single localgovernment area, with the addition of the “vil-las” of Boschi and Lùstrola, whose governmentwas concentrated in the hands of a few fami-lies, the so-called “antichi originari”. In BorgoCapanne, there are still some remains of theRomanesque apse of the church dedicated toSan Giovanni Battista. These, together withnumerous Imperial Roman and Byzantine coinsfound there, indicate that the sacred buildingwas constructed as far back as 1000 AD, andthat the site was in use even earlier.

Granaglione

Not far from Granaglione there is the smallchurch of Calvigi, a sanctuary dedicated tothe cult of the Madonna. The origins of thisdevotion are linked to popular faith in themiraculous abilities of a painting on stoneof the Virgin, dating back to the first half ofthe 16th century, commissioned by theparish of San Niccolò in Granaglione. Acentury later (around 1634), as thanks forhaving escaped the Plague, the communitytook a solemn vow to erect a sanctuary.Expanded in 1635, according to an inscrip-tion on the façade, the church was given abell tower in 1833. There is also a traditiondating back to the 19th century which stillexists today: every 5 years, in the days befo-re the 15th August, the image is transportedin a procession to the Church of San Nic-colò in Granaglione, and then brought backon Assumption Day. The original imagepainted on a rock, by then in poor condi-tion, was repainted onto canvas in the 19thcentury, then in 1954, as the canvas had alsodeteriorated, it was replaced onto beautifulpolychromatic ceramic from Faenza.

History and Culture

Randaragna Mill - Photo by Provincia di Bologna

From the late 14th century and particularlyfrom the 15th to 17th century, the Maestri co-macini (an ancient Guild of Master-buildersand Stone-masons, page 71) passed throughthe Randaragna Valley, building many housesat Le Noci, Casa Boni and Casa Nasci. InLùstrola, the beautiful ancient Church of SanLorenzo is noteworthy. Views of particular beauty can be glimpsed inthe numerous villages of the upper Randa-ragna Valley, in Case Boni, Case Calistri, Poggiodei Boschi, in a magnificent panoramic posi-tion, and in the various quarters of Granaglione.There are also many memorable ancient ora-tories in the various villages: in Casa Boni, theOratory of the SS. Annunziata (1703); in Poggiodei Boschi, the Oratory of San Michele (1702);in Casa Nasci, the Oratory of Sant’Antonio(1703); in Olivacci, the Oratory of San Matteo(1754); in Madognana, the Oratory dedicatedto the Beata Vergine della Vita, and finally theOratory of San Michele in Vizzero.Not to be missed is a visit to the Sanctuary ofthe Madonna di Calvigi, in a magnificent posi-tion in the valley 2 kms above Granaglione.

Educational and tourist itinerary in the land of chestnuts

1. Experimental Educational Park of the Chestnut Tree

Here you can visit various demonstrationareas on the methods of harvesting andfollow an educational trail on the cultiva-tion of chestnuts over the last 100 years.2. Beltaine BreweryHere you can watch the production pro-cess of Beltaine Chestnut Beer.3. XilotecaA collection of 30 samples of differentspecies of wood: each sample consists ofa section of the trunk with an accompa-nying descriptive text (also in Braille) on itscharacteristics and significance in ancienttimes.4. CaniccioHere you can watch the process of dryingchestnuts which still uses the traditionalmethod “a fuoco” (using fire).5. Molino RandaragnaIn the mill, you can watch the process bywhich the dried chestnuts are turned intoflour.6. Rifugio Monte CavalloAt this shelter, accessible to everyone,you can pass moments of relaxation sur-rounded by greenery. The shelter is a star-ting point for itineraries in the chestnutwoods of Queen Matilde and centuries-old beech and conifer woods.

Info: Tel. 0534.21329 - [email protected]

The cultivation of chestnut orchards and theelaboration of their produce has for centuriesbeen the main agricultural activity of the areaand remains a central element in popular cul-ture. The Consortium of chestnut growers, incollaboration with the Local Government,the Province and the Town Council has recen-tly introduced new methods for the use ofchestnuts.

this area very beautiful and environmentallyparticularly precious.Trekkers can find refuge and food in theshelter of Monte Cavallo.

Chestnut Beer of GranaglioneFrom the “Chestnuts of Granaglione”, ofbiological production, comes Beltaine che-stnut beer. The name Beltaine comes fromthe Celtic Spring Festival: Granaglione wasin fact on the border of the Celtic settle-ments in the Bolognese Apennines. Beer, inGaelic “Cervogia”, was the typical drink ofthe Celts. The Lovers’ Knot on the label isthe symbol of the rebirth of nature. Thereare three types of Beltaine Beer: SpecialChestnut Beer, Double Malt SmokedChestnut and Juniper Beer, White Chestnutand Wheat Beer. With abundant head andbody, the different types ofbeer have flavours rangingfrom spicy to fruity andcitric. The yeast, visible insuspension, is evidence ofthe natural fermentation inthe bottle and a symbol of itsgenuineness.

Gastronomy and Wine

Nature

Rivoltone Festival: last weekend of JulyChestnut Festival: last weekend of October

Village Festivals:Lustrola, Festival of San Lorenzo: 10th August Molino del Pallone: 13th AugustBorgo Capanne: 14th and 15th AugustBoschi, Festival of Sant’Agostino: 28th August

Biagioni Portellone Festival: first weekend of August

Casa BoniWild Boar Festival: first Sunday of August

Casa CalistriPolenta Festival: second weekend ofAugust

VizzeroThree-Flour Festival: April

Ponte della Venturina Beer Festival: first week of July

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Opportunities of trekking are numerous.From Granaglione, Case Forlai and Poggiodei Boschi, various forest trails lead to thepass of the Tre Croci, on the range betweenthe valleys of the Reno, Randaragna andMaggiore Rivers, or up to Monte di Gra-naglione and in Monte Cavallo (1280 me-tres). The trails pass through pastureland andchestnut, beech and conifer woods, some ofwhich are of monumental dimensions,populated by fallow and roe deer, making

In Capanne, the playwright Gherardo Ghe-pardi (1891-1949) was born.

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By now we have reached Tuscany, or rather, a mountain territory with an identity, and a lan-guage, all its own, from time immemorial a land of mixing and contamination between diffe-rent traditions, in first place gastronomical. The lands of the Tuscan-Emilian mountain rangeare also the childhood home of the singer-songwriter Francesco Guccini, who owes thesemountains the poetic sensibility that we find in songs. For this reason, Porretta Terme, the“capital” of this borderland, have given him honorary citizenship.

Chestnust wood

Photo by Corno alle Scale Park - Tiziana Bertuzzi

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Villa Smeraldi and the Museum of Rural CultureThe White Storks of the La Rizza ReserveThe Navile Cycle TrackThe Navile Canal in BentivoglioThe DOC wines of the RenoThe historical centre of Pieve di CentoThe Bisana Reserve and the Panfilia WoodsThe banks of the RenoThe Partisans’ Guardhouse in San Pietro in CasaleCento and the Guercino

Not to be missed:

Tourist ItineraryThe second part of the itinera-ry winds through the plains ofthe Reno in search of its treasu-res. Leaving Bologna behindyou, the itinerary follows theantique courses of water, whichhave for centuries been anextraordinary means of con-necting the city to Venice andEurope.

Between the Reno and theNavile: in the Lands of theDuchy of Galliera

- Castel Maggiore- Bentivoglio- San Giorgio di Piano- San Pietro in Casale- Galliera- Pieve di Cento - Castello d’Argile - Argelato

The Reno Valleythe plain

Castel

Bentivoglio

San Giorgio

di Piano

San Pietro

Galliera

Pieve di Cento

Castello d’Argile

Argelato

in Casale

Maggiore

History and environmentThe territory of the Lower Reno Valley iscrisscrossed with a geometry of roads, fieldsand canals, in which you can still see signs ofthe “centuriazione”, the Roman land organi-sation system, the first chapter in thousandsof years of struggle between man and thesprawling waters of the plains. The result is arich and organised countryside, correspon-ding to the flourishing Bolognese urban eco-nomy. The best example of the close rela-tionship between the city and these lands iswithout doubt the Navile Canal. An ancientmeans of communication between Bolognaand Venice, the Navile is today popular forbike rides along the Silk Road. These werealso originally the lands of the Bentivoglio,the Lords of Bologna in the Renaissance,who owned land and buildings here. Charac-ters such as Lucrezia Borgia and Napoleon,who made this territory a Duchy, have lefttheir mark over the course of the centuries.There are several porticoed historical cen-tres worth visiting - San Giorgio di Piano, SanPietro in Casale and Pieve di Cento, wherethe centuries-old tradition of lute-makingstill survives. There are also environmentalaspects of great interest, where the strictproductive order of the plain leaves space tooases of green, providing shelter for faunaand wild flowers. A careful observer crossingthe Reno plain on foot or by bicycle will findvarious interesting naturalistic aspects andcome across particular species, often com-pletely unexpected, such as the White Stork.Willows and elms give shade to the ancientpulping basins used in the elaboration ofhemp, small groups of poplars stand verticalon the endless horizons of these lowlands,while large oaks, antique symbols of theplains, resist in isolation near farm houses orlining the ancient roads. On the Reno bet-ween Galliera and the territory of Ferrara,you should not miss a visit to the Bisana Re-serve and the Panfilia Woods, an extraordi-nary example of lowland forest habitat.

Buon appetitoThe most typical aspects of the plain’s coo-king are those of the traditions of Emilia, inparticular egg pasta. And from these sheetsof pasta, thanks to expert hands, come thefirst great protagonists of Bolognese gastro-nomy: green lasagne, tortelloni with ricottaand spinach, and tortellini in broth, withoutforgetting tagliatelle (flat pasta ribbons),which a legend recounts were born right inthese lands, and its tasty pumpkin tortelli (asort of pumpkin-filled ravioli), a sign of theinfluence of the nearby city of Ferrara.Among these pasta dishes (you should notbe surprised to hear them called “minestre”even if they are not soups), the “maccheronialla Bolognese” are a must, traditionally pre-pared with beef, bacon, chicken livers andbutter. Pork is present everywhere, and its prepara-tion has been raised to an art-form here. Buteven the simplest country products becometasty elements which add flavour and vivaci-ty to sauces and dishes. Cheeses and localfruit round off meals in the “trattorie” (tradi-tional inns) and restaurants in the area, al-ways accompanied by the DOC wines of theReno and the nearby “Colli Bolognesi”(Bolognese hills).

How to get here- A13 Motorway:

exit Bologna-Interporto and Altedo.- Roads: the “Porrettana” State Highway SS 64

(direction Ferrara), Provincial roads SP 4 “Galliera” and SP 5 “San Donato”.

- Railway Bologna-Ferrara-Venezia:stations in Castel Maggiore, Funo Centergross, San Giorgio di Piano, San Pietro in Casale, and Galliera.

- Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it.

Borghi e frazioni in musica is a musical pro-gramme every summer (June and July), whichcombines good music with the discovery ofunknown corners of the Bolognese countrysi-de. Particular areas of these lowlands becomeatmospheric stages for an evening: the publicare taken on an unusual tour from a noble villato a farmhouse, then to listen to a concert, trytasty gastronomic specialities, and perhapsalso discover a garden or building which hasopened specifically for the occasion.www.comune.san-pietro-in-casale.bo.it

Tracce di teatro d’autore, from February toMarch offers a unique journey through theworld of contemporary theatre by famousauthors, in cinemas, theatres and squaresthroughout the Reno plain. The season of“Tracce” presents an extraordinary opportu-nity to discover and understand the trendsand most original aspects of the nationalscene, while at the same time allowing spec-tators to be involved in a project which hasfor over ten years stimulated the best cultu-ral and social elements in the territory.www.traccediteatrodautore.it

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Argelato - URP (Public Relations Office)Via Argelati, 4 - 40050 Argelato (BO)Tel. 051.6634607 - [email protected]

Bentivoglio - URP (Public Relations Office)P.zza della Pace, 1 - 40010 Bentivoglio (BO)Tel. 051.6643502/[email protected]

Castello d’ArgilePiazza Gadani, 2 40050 Castello d’Argile (BO)Tel. [email protected]

Castel Maggiore - URP (Public Relations Office)Piazza Pace - 40013 Castel Maggiore (BO) Tel. 051/6386781 [email protected]

GallieraP.zza Eroi della Libertà, 1 - 40015 Galliera (BO) Tel [email protected]

Pieve di Cento (BO) - URP (Public Relations Office)P.zza Andrea Costa, 17 - 40066 Pieve di Cento (BO) Tel. 051.6862611 [email protected]

San Giorgio di Piano - URP (Public Relations Office)Via della Libertà, 35 - 40016 San Giorgio di Piano (BO) Tel. [email protected]

San Pietro in Casale - URP (Public Relations Office)Via G. Matteotti, 154 - 40018 S. Pietro in Casale (BO) Tel [email protected]

Oasi La Rizza at sunset

Photo by Comune di Bentivoglio - Stefano Gottardi

Tourist Information

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Castel Maggiore, the first stop on our itine-rary, was known in ancient times as Casta-gnolo: this curious name came from thetrunk of a “castagno” (chestnut tree) carrieddown onto the plain by the Navile Canal.The Navile and the mills and factories whichsprung up along it are also the origins of theindustrial development of the territory.

The Navile passes through Castel Maggiorein the Castello area, where you can admirethe ruins of an ancient fort, the Sostegno diCastagnolo Maggiore, built by Ercole Benti-voglio in 1497 and, from the 19th century on-wards, the centre of manufacturing activitiesthanks to the initiative of the Pizzardi family.

The territory of Castel Maggiore stretchesover fertile countryside, offering visitors thechance to forget the urban reality of Bologna,even though it is so close. Passing through theterritory, perhaps by bicycle, you can see se-veral historical villas, places for holidays andheadquarters of the rural economy of theterritory. Perhaps the most notable is VillaZarri, in elegant 18th-century style, nowadaysused for events and congresses.

Villa Salina dates back to the 16th century.Once belonging to the scientist MarcelloMalpighi, there is a monumental oak in therear garden, whose trunk is over 5 metres incircumference. The villa is today the proper-ty of the Region of Emilia Romagna.

Villa Stagni and the farm buildings adjoiningit are also surrounded by a large park, whichcontains the restored Borgognino Mill, evi-dence of the historical system for control-ling the water of the Ghisiliera canal whichjoins the Reno here.

Castel Maggiore

The Navile CanalFrom the end of the 12th century until theearly 20th, the Navile Canal was the mainwater course of the Bolognese territory.Bringing together the water from the Renoand Sàvena Canals, as well as the RiverÁposa, the Navile’s 40 kilometres connec-ted Bologna to the "great highways" of thePo Valley (today largely reclaimed), alongwhich it was possible to reach the sea andVenice. All along its route, the canal fun-ctioned as an extraordinary means of com-munication, used particularly for transpor-ting goods, above all silk. Now as then, theNavile leaves the city near the ancient port(today the “Manifattura delle Arti”, an artscomplex) and ends up joining the Reno atPasso Segni, near Malalbergo. This waswhere the " superior navigation" ended andthe journey could only be continued afterchanging to a different vessel. The canal isabout 10 metres wide and along its banksthere are the “restare”, paths for the oxenand horses which pulled the barges. Thenumerous “sostegni” (locks) along the firststretch of the canal served to overcomethe different levels between the high andlow plains, and in 1775, a lock was added atMalalbergo, thanks to which it was possibleto avoid having to change vessels. At theturn of the 20th century, when its economicfunction was over, the Navile became afavourite spot for boating trips organizedby the newly created Touring Club.Following its course today means passingthrough eight centuries of history and greatchanges in a lovely natural setting.

Historical map of the Navile Canal


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There are also some religious buildings ofparticular note.

The 19th-century Church of Sant’Andreastands where, in the 10th century, there wasthe primitive nucleus of Castagnolo Maggio-re. Having always been the main religiouscentre of the area, it contains a beautiful 17th-century crucifix.

The Church of San Biagio in Saliceto is themost ancient building in the local territory:of Romanesque design, it has belonged tothe Benedictine monks since 1154. The origi-nal rear door still has an architrave and door-step in selenite. There is an adjoining orato-ry and a massive bell-tower.

The Church of San Giovanni Battista inTrebbo di Reno has had a troubled existen-ce, its original structure having been sweptaway in a flood. The present structure is theresult of numerous rebuilding works carriedout since the 16th century. In 1887, the bell-tower was shifted by four metres since itwas leaning dangerously. The beautifully-made altar piece is the work of FrancescoGessi, from the School of Guido Reni.

Also in Trebbo, there are the very interestingfloodlands of the River Reno: here you cansee the remains of the antique gravel-extrac-tion activities and the first part of the RiverPark (access from Via Byron). Following theroad along the Reno (Via Lame), there areother ways to reach the floodlands, an idealspot for trekking or horse riding.

The Ancient Oak of San Pierino, traditionalfeast with maccheroni in the central square:last Saturday of MayJune under the stars: JuneJuly Fair: 1st weekend of July

Festival of Sant’Andrea: 30th November

Trebbo di RenoRaviola Festival: 3rd Sunday of March


Events

Villa Zarri

Photo by Comune di Castel Maggiore

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Bentivoglio is a lovely spot worth visiting forseveral reasons. In the Middle Ages, it wasknown as Ponte Poledrano, being the placewhere “puledri” (horses) crossed the bridgeover the Navile Canal. The Navile runs gen-tly through the town centre and is closelylinked to the history and evolution of theterritory. As recently as 1930, rice from thepaddies of Bentivoglio reached Bologna onbarges along the Canal.

Bentivoglio is the name of the noble Bolo-gnese family who built their Castle here, a“Domus Jocunditatis” created as a place forenjoyment hunting with dogs and falcons.The castle walls still have an authentic 15th

century artistic pearl, the “Storie del pane”,an extraordinary cycle of ten frescoes fromthe School of Ferrara, depicting the variousphases of bread-making, from sowing to“court banquet”. Among the guests ofGiovanni II Bentivoglio and his wife GinevraSforza were Ercole I d’Este, Lucrezia Borgia,Alfonso I d’Este and other Renaissance Lords,who often arrived at the castle by boat.

Overlooking the Navile Canal, there isPalazzo Rosso, today the local library. Builtby Carlo Alberto Pizzardi in 1897, it hassplendid decorations by Achille Casanova,showing scenes typical of the local swampyareas; a decorative masterpiece, the ZodiacRoom is one of the greatest examples of ArsÆmilia.

Bentivoglio

The Æmilia Ars, “protective society ofdecorative arts and industries in the Regionof Emilia”, was founded in 1898 in Bolognaby a group of nobles and artists linked tothe architect-restorer Alfonso Rubbiani andCount Francesco Cavazza. Active until 1903,its strength lay in giving value and promo-ting applied arts and the production andcommercialisation of day-to-day objects.An Italian version of the British Arts &Crafts, it made an original contribution tothe aesthetic discussions linked to the ArtNouveau movement.

History and Culture

Stilt-birds in the La Rizza Reserve

Photo by Ecosistema - Roberto Tinarelli

Zodiac Room - Palazzo Rosso

Photo by Comune di Bentivoglio - Gianni Gosdan

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Nature-lovers should not miss the La RizzaReserve, with its white storks.

The Navile Cycle Track is divided intosections along the ancient waterway fromthe Port of Bologna to Malalbergo andPasso Segni. The remains of the imposinghydraulic waterworks along the itineraryemphasise the fascination of Bologna the“City of Water”, European silk capital andcrossroads for international commerce,mostly hidden by the last two centuries ofchanges. The Navile Cycle Track, which israpidly becoming a classic of cycling tou-rism, is the central part of a long cycling iti-nerary along the Silk Road, linking Lucca toVenice, passing through Bologna and theReno plains. www.montesolebikegroup.it


The Bentivoglio Reserve - “La Rizza”Ex-Rice PaddiesNorth of the town, there are the ex-rice pad-dies of Bentivoglio and San Pietro in Casale, anarea which, over the course of the centuries,has undergone radical changes: from swampsto paddies to more intensive cultivation andfinally to the current return of the water, sincethe nineties. Today the Bentivoglio Reserve -“La Rizza” Ex-Rice Paddies are home to richand varied fauna, birds in particular, allowingvisitors to see and feel the fascination of lan-dscapes which were once characteristic of somuch of the Bolognese plain. After centuriesof absence, White Storks have come back tonest in the Reserve. For visitors, parts of thearea are equipped with trails, which can befollowed both on foot and by bicycle, andobservation hides.Info: Tel. 051.6640076www.orizzontidipianura.it

Nature

The 19th-century Villa Smeraldi houses anethnographic museum of national impor-tance, with a rich collection of agriculturalmachinery, instruments and objects linkedto peasant life and work in the Bolognesearea. Some sections illustrate the variousproductive cycles (hemp, wheat, milk) andthere are reconstructions of the differentparts of rural houses. A rich calendar oftemporary exhibitions elaborate variousthemes linked to rural archaeology andlocal traditions.THE VILLA SMERALDI INSTITUTIONTHE MUSEUM OF RURAL CULTUREVilla Smeraldi - Via Sammarina, 35San Marino 40010 Bentivoglio (BO)Tel. 051.891050 - Fax 051.898377segreteria.museo@provincia.bologna.itwww.museociviltacontadina.provincia.bologna.itOpening times: Monday, Wednesday andFriday 9.30am-12.30pm; Tuesday andThursday 9.30am-12.30pm and 2.30pm-6pm;Saturday by appointment for groups. SundayOctober to April 2.30pm-6.30pm; May toSeptember 4pm-8pm. Tickets: full price € 4;reductions € 2, free entrance for under 14sand disabled people. Guided visit € 2 extraper visitor.

Museums

In the nearby area of San Marino di Bentivo-glio, it is well worth visiting the Museum ofRural Culture, a truly unique experience.Here the past life of the Bolognese plains ispresented through the cultivation, from cornto hemp, grain to rice.Housed in the beautiful setting of Villa Sme-raldi, the museum is surrounded by a largepark of notable environmental and recreatio-nal value.

Villa Smeraldi park


White storks


The most interesting example of the ancientcultivation and elaboration of hemp is in Via S.Maria in Duno, after the dirt road forCinquanta. On the banks there, you can stillsee the river stones used to hold the “posto-ni” (rafts made from several bunches of hemptied together) underwater.

In the gastronomical history of the territory,the name of Bentivoglio is linked to a legend,actually two legends, about the invention oftagliatelle (flat pasta ribbons), one of whichsays that they are in fact Lucrezia Borgia’sblonde hair.

The “Maceri” and HempThe farming economy of the Reno plain hasprospered for centuries thanks to an indu-strially important plant, hemp, mainly appre-ciated for its use in shipping, since it is used tomake excellent ropes and strong material forsails. The introduction of steam ships and thediffusion of cotton over the 19th and 20th cen-turies led to the un-stoppable decline ofhemp cultivation.However, the Bologne-se countryside still con-serves memories ofthis ancient cultivationin the widespread pul-ping basins. Traces of hemp cultivation stillremain in the territory in the form of “mace-ri”. The “maceri” are small artificial basinssimilar to rectangular pools, about 2 metresdeep. Their size depended on the quantity ofhemp to be pulped, which in some cases wasthe produce of a single farm, but was moreoften produced by several sharecroppers onan estate. The maceration served to neutrali-ze the action of gluey substances which stop-ped the textile fibre from detaching itselffrom the woody stems. Bunches of hemp tiedtogether formed rafts, the “postoni” (raftsmade from several bunches of hemp tiedtogether), which were then sunk in the basin,weighed down with stones for about eightdays, after which they were pulled out andwashed. Midway through last century, overtwo thirds of the hemp produced was sent toother parts of Italy and abroad, while the restwas used in Bologna or other smaller centresof the area in further stages of elaboration,thus providing work for thousands of artisans,cottage and factory workers. Recently hemphas become the subject of renewed interestand is being reintroduced, even though in alimited way so far.

TagliatelleTradition says that tagliatelle came fromthe inspiration of Mastro Zafirano, the per-sonal chef to Giovanni II Bentivoglio, Lordof Bologna, in the occasion of the marria-ge of Annibale Bentivoglio and Lucreziad’Este, who both reached Ponte Poledranoby boat in 1487 along the Navile canal, onefrom Bologna, the other from Ferrara.Another legend suggests that MastroZafirano was inspired by Lucrezia Borgia’sblonde locks, when in 1502, she passedthrough Bentivoglio en route to Ferrara tomarry Alfonso d’Este. As a dowry, Lucrezia’sfather, Pope Alexander VI, gave the Duke ofFerrara the territories of Cento and Pieve diCento. Today as then, the secret of goodtagliatelle is all in the sheets of pasta,which must be spread out with a rolling pinso that they maintain the right roughnessto go best with ragù, the typical Bolognesemeat sauce, famous the world over, whoseoriginal recipe was deposited at theChamber of Commerce on the 17th October1982.

Gastronomy and Wine

Festival of Flavours: end of MayCastello in festival, at the Bentivogliocastle: beginning of JuneHarvesting and Threshing Festival, at theMuseum of Rural Culture: end of JuneInternational Festival of Chamber Music:September/October

Festival of voluntary work: OctoberMuseum of Rural Culture: guided visits every Sunday

MARKET DAY: Friday

Events

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History and Culture

San Giorgio di Piano is a typicalsmall town of the Bolognese area.Its historical centre, remarkablywell-preserved, has a characteristic“torresotto” (tower) from 1321,today the public library. It is worthseeing the Palazzo Comunale (TownHall), built at the end of the 18th

century, and the 19th-century Ro-manesque Church of San Giorgio.

Of the ancient castle built in 1403,there remains only Porta Ferrara,with the typical slits for the draw-bridge. Near where there was oncePorta Bologna, the Oratory of SanGiuseppe and the Nativity of theMadonna (18th century) contains aSacred Family of the School of theGuercino.

A popular site for film-loving pil-grims is the birthplace of GiuliettaMasina, workmate and wife of Fe-derico Fellini.

The territory between San Giorgio di Pianoand San Pietro in Casale was the site of ahistorical battle: in the area of Gherghenza-no, Annibale I Bentivoglio defeated the armyof the Viscount in 1433. As evidence of thepast centuries, there is a monumental planetree, a good 33 metres tall.

San Giorgio di Piano

Corso dei Fiori, nocturnal parade of floats:early JuneNot(t)e in piazza: late June - early JulyFestival of San Luigi Gonzaga: fourth weekof September (from friday to Sunday)Living Nativity scene: Advent

MARKET DAY: Monday

Events

Minute physique, “misty eyelids” and “soulskin”, Giulietta Masina interpreted anarchetype of melancholy, submissive femi-ninity majestically, through a series of roleswhich became part of the history of 20th-century cinema. Born in San Giorgio diPiano in 1921 to a violinist and a schoolmi-stress, Giulietta moved to Rome and, in1942, performed in a radio show where shemet Federico Fellini. A year later they weremarried. Already acting in her husband’searly films, in 1954 she was Gelsomina in LaStrada, a role which brought her internatio-nal recognition. There followed other greatroles for Fellini (Le Notti di Cabiria,Giulietta degli Spiriti, Ginger and Fred) andothers (Europa ‘51 by Rossellini, Fortunellaby Eduardo De Filippo with Alberto Sordi, Nella Città d’Inferno by Castellani withAnna Magnani). The winner of numerousawards, Giulietta died in Rome on the 23rd

March 1994, a few months after the deathof her Federico.

Culture and Famous Names Giulietta Masina: a city and his star

Photo by Comune di San Giorgio di Piano

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The first thing to strike you on entering SanPietro in Casale is the beautiful layout of itshistorical centre, with its Bolognese-styleporticoes and elegant ancient buildings.

Of particular note is the 19th-century Churchof SS. Pietro e Paolo, and the Romanesquebell-tower, recalling the building’s medievalorigins. Inside there are interesting paintingsfrom the School of Ferrara dating back to thefirst half of the 16th century. A short distanceaway, there is the Municipal Park, adjoiningthe 17th-century Villa Padoa, which has beenthe seat of the Municipality since 1896.

Four cycle tracks starting in the town leadalong tarmac and dirt roads into a world richin small treasures for the attentive traveller.

The cliché of the plains is of a monotonous,unchanging countryside. In fact, it is not likethat at all. In the territory of San Pietro inCasale alone, heading off in different direc-tions, you can find notable differences. Theterritory to the east of the town is characte-rized by its valley origins, which has todaybecome immense stretches of cultivatedfields, as well as nature reserves recreatedusing the abundant water. The countrysideto the west, by contrast, is scattered withnoble houses and ancient rural buildings inmore modest estates. Here you can also seesome of the last traces of the most typicalof the cultivation systems of the plains,known as the “piantata padana” (page 150).The villages around San Pietro are often visi-ble for kilometres for the bell-towers risingup on the plains, some of which are defini-tely worth a visit.

In Tombe, there is a large building construc-ted in 1490 by Giovanni II Bentivoglio on theremains of a building from the times of theAntonini Emperors, on the edge of a wideswamp near the border of the State ofd’Este. Built as a hunting lodge for the valley,and partially demolished, the exterior ofthe building still has the original founda-tions, while inside, traces of the painteddecorations still survive. The coat-of-armsof the Bentivoglio-Sforza family is clearlyvisible. The building then became part of theDuchy of Galliera (page 105).

San Pietro in Casale

Church SS. Pietro e Paolo


The house of the artist Guido Frabboni is partof a complex where he lived and worked formany years. Guido Frabboni (1926-1994)donated his house, works (about two hun-dred) and his collections of majolicas andicons to the town. Today it is a gallery spaceopen to the public for exhibitions. The roomsused for temporary exhibitions are on theground and first floors, while the secondfloor houses the collections of works byFrabboni and by another painter and sculptorfrom Casale, Raimondo Rimondi.CASA FRABBONI (Frabboni house)Via Matteotti, 13740018 San Pietro in Casale (BO)Tel [email protected] times: Tuesday, Saturday, Sunday9:30am-12:30pm. Saturday afternoon3pm-6pm. Free entrance.

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In Rubizzano, it is worth visiting the Churchof SS. Simone and Giuda, containing paintingsby Guardassoni and Trebbi. This is where Pierde’ Crescenzi, the 13th-century founder of a-gronomy, retired at 70 years old. Also notableis Palazzo Bonora, a typical lowland house.

The ancient village of Poggio Massumaticois called Poggetto to distinguish it from thenearby Poggio Lambertini (today calledPoggio Renatico), the birthplace of CardinalProspero Lambertini, who later becamePope with the name Benedict XIV. In hisperiod, the Benedictine Tunnel was dug, thefirst step towards the definitive resolutionof the problems of the Reno. For centuries,this area had in fact been prone to seriousflooding from the river. In Poggetto, youshould see the Church of San GiacomoMaggiore, whose altar piece is from theSchool of Guido Reni, while the apse is pro-bably of Romanesque origins.

Along the stretch of the Navile Canal (page97) which crosses the territory of San Pietro inCasale, the right bank has an embankmentwith “towpaths” that can still be followed.

From here you can enjoy a wide view over thecountryside. Half-hidden in the vegetation isthe 16th-century Ca’ Gioiosa, built to housethe workers responsible for the water net-work, which in the 18th century also had a mill.

From an environmental point of view, thereare the Areas of Ecological Restructuringcreated near the “Casone Partigiano” (Partisan’sGuardhouse) and the Nature Reserves nearPoggetto and Massumatico.

In the Napoleonic period, a new reclamationcampaign started the definitive transforma-tion of this land. In the same period, the cul-tivation of rice was introduced and becamecharacteristic of all the Bolognese plainstowards the ancient Po Delta.

The “centuriazione”Having conquered Bologna from the GalliBoi (Gauls), the Romans began large-scaleland reclamation works to enable cultiva-tion of vast areas of the typical swamplandsof the primitive plain landscape. The plainswere thus subdivided following a strict geo-metry consisting of a grid of roads andcanals, which the Roman engineers createdin a few years. Huge quadrangles of 710 squa-re metres (about 50 hectares), then dividedinto 100 equal areas (often still in use today),marked out the countryside. Every “centuria”was lined with roads (limites), crossing theplain orthogonally. At the crossroads, theyplaced boundary stones with pagan images,precisely where today there are often votiveChristian buildings. The “centuriazione” hadmultiple functions, from governing thewater for irrigation to the division of thefields into estates. Since then, this estate-division has remained a characteristic of theBolognese countryside and gave the mana-gement of sharecropping the most suitablemethod of production, absolutely predomi-nant until at least the 19th century.

San Pietro in Casale Carnival: MarchÆmiliana: June

MARKET DAY: Tuesday

Events

The Partisans’ Guardhouse is a building cove-red with canes, built where there used to bethe ancient house of the guardian of the val-ley, which collapsed due to subsidence follo-wing land reclamation. Built in the 18th centuryin the middle of a vast swamp, on the edge ofthe rice-paddies, and reachable only by boat,the house was used in the Second World Waras a base by the “Paolo” Second Partisan Bri-gade, which organized the insurrection of the22nd April 1945. Today it is surrounded by amoat (crossed by a walkway), which recalls theprevious valleys, here existing until 1948. Insidethere are relics from the war period andmemorial stones to the Martyrs for the Libe-ration. Central to a recent renaturalization pro-gramme, the surrounding area has a large wetzone lined by poplars and willows.

Nature

The Setti road between Maccaretolo andTombe is perhaps the clearest example ofRoman “centuriazione”, among those spared bythe ruinous floods of the Reno.

The town square - Photo by Provincia di Bologna

History and Culture

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Galliera, a meeting point for the waters of theReno, the Emiliano-Romagnolo canal and theNapoleonic Tunnel, is immersed in gentlecountryside enclosed by the sinuous lines ofembankments. Its name has all the historyand beauty of this land: “Gal” in Celtic meansborder and “Lyr” water. Its territory consists ofthree inhabitations which together make up asingle Council: Galliera Vecchia, San Venanzioand San Vincenzo.

Galliera

In San Venanzio, opposite the church, there isPalazzo Bonora. The statues supporting the balco-ny (in the picture) reproduce urban models, in par-ticular the entrance to Palazzo Davia Bargellini inBologna.

Today the municipal headquarters, it was originallythe residence of the Bonora family, agrarian mer-chants who for decades successfully managed thepatrimonial estate of the “Duchy of Galliera”

Napoleon and the Duchy of GallieraThe descent of Napoleonic troops in 1796ushered in a new period for the Reno plain,marked by an agricultural development of acapitalistic nature. The main advocate ofthe process of modernisation of theBolognese agrarian economy was AntonioAldini. A descendant of an upper-middleclass family, grandson of the scientist LuigiGalvani and himself a professor of Law, hewas one of Napoleon’s ministers and one ofthe founders of the Cisalpina Republic. Atthe turn of the 18th century, Aldini managedto buy a good 52 propertiesbetween Galliera and S. Pietroin Casale, which he groupedtogether according to the crite-ria of a unitary productivesystem. Thus a single businessof notable dimensions wascreated, comprising ninety ruralbuildings, internal means ofcommunication and a modernirrigation system allowing thecultivation of rice on a vastscale. The rice was transported along theRiolo Canal to the port of Malalbergo andthen sent to Bologna on the Navile Canal.The rice-paddies were managed "in econo-mia" (i.e. by workers with salaries), the firststep in the definitive destruction of the sha-recropping system in the Bolognese coun-tryside and the transformation of peasantfamilies into the new rural proletariat. In1812, the estate was bought by Napoleon,who a year later gave it the title "Duchy ofGalliera", a solid dowry for his nieceGiuseppina Eugenia Beauharnais, daughterof the Viceroy of Italy.

History and Culture For the heiress, Napoleon had alreadybought the large residence of the nobleCaprara family in Bologna, today the seat ofthe Prefecture. Palazzo Caprara was annexedto the patrimony of the Duchy of Galliera,becoming the seat of government. In 1823,Giuseppina Eugenia, with the title of Princessof Bologna and Duchess of Galliera, marriedPrince Oscar of Sweden. The Swedish royalfamily showed no inclination for administra-tion of the lands and merely worried abouttransferring the artistic patrimony of theDuchy to Sweden: still today the "Gallieracollection" is an important section of the

gallery of the Court of Stockholm.With the fall of Napoleon, in 1837both Palazzo Caprara and theGalliera estate were sold to theMarquis De Ferrari of Genoa, whoobtained from Pope Gregory XVIthe restoration of the Duchy ofGalliera with its relative title, thusbecoming its legitimate holder. Inthe mid-19th century, the technicaland productive development ofthe estate reached its peak, but

the name Galliera became internationallyfamous thanks above all to the philanthropyof De Ferrari’s wife, the last descendent ofthe Brignole Sale family. Maria, Duchess ofGalliera, died in 1888 in Paris, where thename of Galliera still has its importance asshe left in heritage an elegant 19th-centurybuilding, Palazzo Galliera, today the seat ofthe Fashion Museum. At the beginning of the20th century, the Duchy was divided up andsold off by its last owners, Eulalia di Borboneand Antonio d’Orléans, Infant of Spain, lastson of Louis Philippe, King of France.

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The Emiliano-Romagnolo CanalThe Emiliano-Romagnolo Canal (CER), crea-ted in the second half of the 20th century, isthe latest great engineering work in thethousand-year-old history of controlling thewaters of the plains. The canal serves tobring water from the Po into Romagna forirrigation and is easily distinguished from theother canals both for the contrary directionof its current, and for its cement emban-kments. The first idea for its creation datesback to 1620, when Abbot Tirelli of ReggioEmilia presented Duke Cesare d’Este with a“project to extract water from the Po abovePiacenza to irrigate this province and thoseof Parma, Reggio, Modena and Bologna”. The first articulated project was the work ofthe Bolognese engineer Annibale Certani,

presented in 1863 and soon abandoned forpolitical reasons. The idea only began totake hold much later, thanks in part to theefforts of Engineer Mario Giandotti, com-missioner of the Consortium for CanalManagement, set up in 1939. The onset ofthe Second World War held up the projectonce more, but in 1947, it finally took shapeby combining the need to defend againstflooding from the Reno with that of irriga-tion for the plains of Bologna and Romagna,and definitively shifting the point of contactwith the Po to Bondeno, on the border bet-ween Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy and Vene-to. The real work began in 1955. Today theCER is a complex water system, which, whilemaintaining irrigation as its primary mission,also serves for civil, environmental and tou-rist functions.

Science and Technique

Towards the north, the Galliera MedievalTower, with the nearby towers of Cocennoand dell’Uccellino, are what remain to admi-re of the system of fortifications which the

Bologna Council built at the end of the 12th

century at the limit of its territory with theState of d’Este.

Tower of Galliera - Photo by Comune di Galliera

The Panfilia Woods - Area of ecologicalrestructuring “La Bisana” is the mostsignificant remaining example of plainsforest in the Region. Birds are the mainfauna in the woods, both for the speciespresent all year and for migratory speciespassing through. Among the most impor-tant mammals, there are hedgehogs, dormi-ce, badgers, foxes and, in the adjacentcanals, numerous coypus. The PanfiliaWoods can be visited in every season, butthey are at their best in the spring andautumn months. At the main entrance (inVia del Cavo, S. Agostino), there is a parkingarea and a drinking fountain. It is also possi-ble to park near a second entrance, at theend of Via del Bosco. It is a good idea tocome well-equipped, and a good pair ofbinoculars are advised. Within the woods,there are trails which can be followed onfoot or by bicycle. Info: WWF sezione AltoFerrarese. Tel. 0532.846470

Nature

Map of the flood-plain woods

Photo by Comune di Sant’Agostino (FE)

San VenanzioAugust Fair: early August

MARKET DAY: Wednesday in San Venanzioand Thursday afternoon in San Vincenzo

Events

Between Galliera, Pieve di Cento and S.Agostino (Province of Ferrara) there stretchesa great natural monument, of notable envi-ronmental interest: the Bisana and Panfiliaflood-plain woods, an example of humid-river bank forest, once widespread acrossthese lowlands.

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The GuercinoBorn in Cento in 1591, Giovanni FrancescoBarbieri, called the Guercino because hewas cross-eyed, is one of the most signifi-cant artists of the great 17th-centuryperiod in Emilia, fundamental due to hisartistic training and his meeting with Lu-dovico Carracci, who introduced him intothe Bolognese cultural environment. TheGuercino then developed his personalstyle, following the precepts of Baroqueaesthetics without however abandoningthose instances of accurate truthfulnessso central to the lessons of Carracci. Hisart soon gained the attention of the mostimportant patrons. In 1621, he was in Romeand for Cardinal Ludovisi, who had beco-me Pope with the name Gregory XV, hecreated the frescoes of the Casino Ludo-visi. In 1642, when Guido Reni died, Guer-cino found a position in his homeland,inheriting the role of head of the School.He died in 1666 in Bologna, where he isburied in the Church of SS. Salvatore. Hispaintings are now kept in major museumsthe world over, but it is in his homelandthat there is the greatest concentration ofhis works.


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Pieve di Cento, known as the “little Bologna”for its long porticoes, has clearly maintainedthe urban layout of the Roman “castrum”,with the addition of the 9th-century parishchurch, then developed in the medieval pe-riod and the following Renaissance and Baro-que periods. Its position has always made it aborder reference point for the Bishopric andCity Council of Bologna, and led to it beingin the sights of the d’Este family of Ferrara.Thus the construction of defensive buildingssuch as the Rocca in 1387, designed byAntonio di Vincenzo, the architect of San Pe-tronio in Bologna, and the four city gates,rebuilt in stone in the 14th century.

The history of Pieve is inextricably linked tothat of its twin city, Cento, just a step awayacross the Reno.

It was in 1185 that the Bishop of Bolognaextended his jurisdiction into these lands,which were still dominated by water. Thesewere the years of the first land reclamationworks and the introduction of “enfiteusi”, asystem of contracts which assigned land inexchange for their colonization. This led, in1253, to the creation of the Partecipanzeagrarie, which are still active today (page190). With the diminuishing authority of thechurch, the lands passed into the hands ofthe people of Pieve, united in a single com-munity, with the duty of redistributing thelands among the participating families, onthe basis of a twenty-year rotation system.The official reorganization of the “Parteci-panza di Pieve” came about in 1460, as it stilloperates today.

The seal on the separation between the twotowns was the disastrous flooding of theReno in 1459, which shifted the course of theriver from the west to the east of Cento. In1502, meanwhile, Pieve came under the con-trol of Ferrara, as part of Lucrezia Borgia’sdowry to the Duke of d’Este. However, theterritory continued to maintain its own auto-nomous identity, historically linked to Bo-logna. And this led to the decision by Pieve in1929 to return under Bolognese control.

Apart from the River Reno, the two cities areunited by art, by the name of the Guercino.

Pieve di Cento

Rocca by Antonio di Vincenzo

Photo by Comune di Pieve di Cento

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The Palazzo Comunale (City Hall), 16-17th cen-tury, houses the ancient Legal Archive and theTeatro Zeppilli, modified in 1856 and recentlyrestored. The most recent work has restoredthe stalls and foyer to their original functions.The original furnishing has also been restored,as well as the painted sections and the stucco-es. The theatre, with 149 seats, hosts theatricaland musical activities, conventions, conferen-ces and shows. The remaining area houses asmall Music Museum, with articles from thelife of Alice Zeppilli, as well as documents andmusical instruments from the lute-makers’workshop. Information and tickets from thePublic Relations Office (URP).

The use of the Theatre of the “PalazzoPubblico” for theatrical and musical per-formances started in 1785. From then on,although in a temporary manner, the thea-tre was regularly used until 1852, with aproduction of Giuseppe Verdi’s Ernani. Inthe meanti-me, the com-munity of Pie-ve conside-red the ideaof building anew theatre,intended asan autono-mous structure. The high costs of such aproject led to the decision to restructurethe existing one, entrusted to the engine-er from Cento, Antonio Giordani, whowould later also design the theatres ofCento and Crevalcore, as well as that inMaracaibo in Venezuela. For this theatre,Giordani adopted the consolidated styleof the "teatro all’italiana". The decorationis simple but elegant. The curtain, which isstill preserved, portrays Aesop talking tothe shepherds. The theatre was inaugura-ted in August 1856 with productions of IlTrovatore and Rigoletto by GiuseppeVerdi. Closed in 1929, it remained largelyunused for many years until, completelyrenovated, it was once more inauguratedon the 6th December 2003 with a concert.The various rooms of the theatre, whichhouse an extensive collection of stringinstruments, also contain photographsand personal objects belonging to thesoprano Alice Zeppilli.

Alice Zeppilli Loved and feted by the American public inthe early years of the 20th century, AliceZeppilli was an extremely fascinating sopra-no who performed in the most importanttheatres in the United States with giants ofthe period such as Enrico Caruso and TittaRuffo. A woman of uncommon beauty andan artist with universally appreciated stagetechnique, she also appeared to have goodvocal technique and good taste in her choi-ce of roles, gifts that were not widespreadat the time. The continuous freshness of hervoiceand generosity on stage led her toperform on the afternoon of the 13thDecember 1913 as Gilda in Rigoletto and inthe evening as Margherita in Faust, in whatthe Chicago press christened “Zeppilli Day”.Her figure and art not only fascinatedopera-lovers of the time, but also struck thegreat Gabriele D’Annunzio, who defined herin his many letters as “my Cherub”. Herhusband, Giuseppe Alberghini, first violon-cellist in Chicago, was also from Pieve, andAlice passed numerous summers in herlovely villa in Pieve during her career, as wellas the last years of her life.


The Alice Zeppilli Municipal Theatre

Communal Palace - Alice Zeppilli Theatre


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There are three museums in Pieve, offering thechance of a journey through the art and historyof the territory and beyond, from Medieval timesto the latest generations of contemporary art.

The 14th-century “Rocca” (Fort) housesdocuments and evidence of the historyand characters who have honoured Pieve,and the rich "Melloni and Monti” photo-graphic archive. There is a notable collec-tion of ancient maps, testimony to thepresence of the religious order of the“Scolopi” Fathers and a Jewish community.CIVIL MUSEUM Via della Rocca, 1 - 40066 Pieve di Cento (BO)Tel. [email protected] times: Saturday 3:30-6:30 pm; Sunday9-12 am and 3:30-6:30 pm. Free entrance.

The 18th-century building of the old hospitalhouses a section of ancient art, with worksfrom the Schools of Bologna and Ferrara (16-18th century), and a rich collection of 18th-cen-tury paintings. The masterpiece of the mu-seum is a wooden polychromatic Madonnafrom the 14th century. There is an importantcollection of 16th to 18th-century paintings andsculptures from the Schools of Bologna andFerrara, in particular an Annunciation by theGuercino and a Saint Sebastian by Guardas-soni. A section of 20th-century art, with theMascellani Collection, houses works by Mar-tini, donations by Cuniberti, Sepo, Ponti andnumerous works donated by Tavoni.PINACOTECA CIVICA (CIVIL ART GALLERY)P.zza Andrea Costa, 1740066 Pieve di Cento (BO)Tel. [email protected] times: Saturday 3:30-6:30pm; Sunday9-12am and 3:30-6:30pm - Free entrance.

Born from the passion of the collector GiulioBargellini, the “Giulio Bargellini” Museum ofArt by 20th-Century Italian Generations ishoused in an old silo, re-structured by thearchitect Davanzo. It exhibits a collection of20th-century Italian art, with rooms dedicatedto the "historical masters" (Modigliani, deChirico, Depero) and the successive genera-tions of protagonists from the last century,from the turn of the century to the thirties.The museum is surrounded by the SculptureGarden with large-scale works in variousmaterials and languages. In addition to thepermanent collection, the museum organisesimportant temporary exhibitions.M.A.G.I. ‘900Via Rusticana, 1/a - 40066 Pieve di Cento (BO)Tel. 051.6861545 - Fax [email protected] - www.magi900.comOpening times: Tuesday to Sunday 10am-6pm.Tickets: full price € 7, reductions € 5. Freeentrance for under 10s, groups and schools.

Museums

Museums

Museums

School of Lutemaking - Photo by Comune di Pieve di Cento

Civil Museum


School of LutemakingNear the 14th-century Porta Ferrara, whose bat-tlements from the Bentivoglio period haverecently been brought to light, and in therooms of the adjoining ex-slaughterhouse,there is the Pieve di Cento School of Lute-making, attended by students from all overthe world. The School, together with theMuseum of Music, bear witness to the deeplyrooted musical and artisan traditions of Pievedi Cento, where lute workshops have beendocumented since the end of the 18th century.

History and Culture

The flat territory of Emilia is naturally perfect for relaxing cycling excursions. Here, the bicy-cle is still the most common means for short daily trips and for visitors to these lands, it canbe nice to mix with the locals before setting off to visit the historical, artistic and naturalbeauty spots of the area. Here are a couple of suggested itineraries:

Before continuing the itinerary in the greensurrounding countryside, it is worth visitingat least two churches in the historical centreof Pieve.

The Collegiate of Santa Maria Maggiore,built between 1702 and 1710, contains pain-tings by the elite of Bolognese painting,from the famous Altarpiece of the Assuntaby Guido Reni to an Annunciation by theGuercino, as well as works by Scarsellino,Passerotti and Lavinia Fontana.

There is also a notable wooden crucifix fromthe 14th century, worshipped as miraculous.The Bell tower was rebuilt in late-Romane-sque style in 1487.The Church and Oratory of the SS. Trinità(16-17th century) is considered one of the arti-stic masterpieces of the Province of Bo-logna. It contains an altarpiece by Lucio Mas-sari and an extraordinary cycle of frescoesby Lionello Spada and Francesco Brizio, pain-ted between 1612 and 1615. There is also ahighly precious inlaid wooden Choir, fromthe 17th-century as well.


1. By bicycle in the land of the Guercino

A trip to discover the many masterpieces ofthe Guercino scattered in the territory.

Pieve:The Collegiate of Santa Maria Maggiore,Pinacoteca Civica (Civil Art Gallery)Cento:Porta Pieve, Piazza Guercino, PinacotecaCivica (Civil Art Gallery), The Basilica ofSan Biagio, The Church of the Servi, TheChurch of the RosarioCorporeno:The Church of San GiorgioRenazzo:The Church of San Sebastiano

Tot. 14 kmsTiming 1h 45’ + internal visits

Nota beneThe Churches of the Servi and the Rosario in

Cento are open only on request.Info: Ufficio InformaturismoPiazzale della Rocca, 9 - 44042 Cento (FE)Tel. [email protected]

2. By mountain bike and on horseback along the Reno

For nature-lovers, the Reno Park with its highembankments along the river is perfect forlovely excursions on foot, horseback or bybicycle. Going upstream from Ponte Vecchioand following the embankments north, afterabout 15 kms, you reach the Bisana Reserveand the Panfilia Woods, an ample floodplain and a refuge for many species of birds,as well as a precious site for mushrooms andtruffles.

Info: www.itineraridascoprire.it(la Terra Plebis sulla via del Reno)

Carneval d’la Piv: in february and in MarchThe Quattro Porte Marathon: MarchSS. Crocifisso: every Friday in MarchSpring Market: late April - early MayFestival of the Maccheroni al Pettine: first weekend of JulyPieve Festival (Youth Festival): first wee-kend of SeptemberStaffetta Settembrina (relay race): September

MARKET DAY: Friday

Events

Porticoes of the “little Bologna”


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Castello d’Argile was born and has alwayslived in symbiosis with the River Reno, somuch so that the embankments, or more pre-cisely the “argille” (clay) which makes its ter-rain so rich, are even part of its name.

In the central square, there is the Church ofSan Pietro of Argile, containing fragments of aprecious, rare fresco attributed to Simone deiCrocifissi. Behind the high altar, there is anancient organ, the work of Giuseppe Guer-mandi, recently restored.

Passing, perhaps by bicycle, between the cul-tivated fields of the surrounding plains, it isimpossible not to notice the majestic, and ina certain sense surprising, Church of SantaMaria of Venazzano. Not far away in Ronchi,the Torre Marsigli is a beautiful example oftower-dovecote, probably originally defensi-ve. Still in Ronchi, there is the Osteria dellaStella, a resting place for travellers and pil-grims since the 17th century.

Castello d’Argile

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Festival of Saints Pietro and Paolo: JuneFair: JulyFestival of the Blessed Virgin of the Rosario: October

Mascarino Festival of Sughi (Grape must desserts):September

MARKET DAY: Saturday

Events

The building, which houses the theatre,was built in 1907 as a “Casa del Popolo” byone of the first socialist cooperative orga-nizations. The theatre consists of a rectan-gular space with a balcony on delicatewooden columns running along all threesides. It was inaugurated on the 22nd Sep-tember 1907, in the presence of the socia-list deputies Ferri and Bentini. In the yearsboth before and after the First World War,it hosted shows, and political and unionmeetings. With the arrival of Fascism, itbecame the “Casa del Fascio” until afterthe Second World War, when it returnedto be the local “Casa del Popolo”. In 1981,the Town Council, owners of the theatre,had it restructured and a memorial stonewas placed at the entrance to commemo-rate the tenor Francesco Grassilli, fatherof the actor Raoul, a native of Castellod’Argile. Inaugurated once more on the25th April 2004, the theatre can also beused for exhibitions.

Sughi d’uva (Grape must desserts)Autumn, the grape-harvesting season, isthe ideal moment to prepare “sughi d’uva”,small desserts made from cooked grape-must. Traditionally, this sort of pudding isprepared with must from black grapes,but they can also be found made withwhite grapes. Apart from must, the othersimple ingredients of this ancient recipeare sugar and flour. They can be eaten ontheir own or combined with fine cheeses.

Gastronomy and Wine

Church of S. Maria of Venazzano


Communal Theatre

Among the specialities of the territory, don’tforget the traditional sughi d’uva (grape-must desserts), central to a festival in September.

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Immersed in the tranquillity and vast horizons ofthe plains, the territory of Argelato is enriched bya chain of historical residences in a ring of a fewkilometres. Behind the city center is VillaBeatrice, built in the second half of the 16th-cen-tury. The building hosts paintings by CesareBaglione; the garden was built according toRenaissance techniques in order to promote air-flow between the rooms of the villa. The villawas recently restored and hosts cultural events.Info: [email protected]

Within a few kilometres are placed VillaZambonelli and Palazzo Orsi (with its imposing16th-century porticoed façade) in Funo, Palazzodella Morte on the road to the village of Casadio,and Palazzo Sampieri in Volta Reno.The Church of San Michele Arcangelo, whichdates back to the year 1000, used to belong toCountess Matilde of Canossa. As an alternative to the provincial roads - prefer-red by motorbike enthusiasts - the territoryoffers a complex network of country roads, idealfor long excursions by bicycle, among ancientpulping basins for the elaboration of hemp,devotional columns and rows of poplars.

Argelato

DOC RENO WINESThe production area of wines with the“Reno” Denomination of Controlled Origin(DOC) in the Province of Bologna includesthe territories of: Imola, Dozza, Castel SanPietro Terme, Castelguelfo, Medicina, Oz-zano dell’Emilia, Castenaso, Budrio, Grana-rolo dell’ Emilia, Bologna, San Lazzaro diSavena, Bentivoglio, San Giorgio di Piano,San Pietro in Casale, Pieve di Cento, CastelMaggiore, Argelato, Castello D’Argile, Casa-lecchio di Reno, Calderara di Reno, SalaBolognese, Zola Predosa, Crespellano, An-zola dell’Emilia, San Giovanni in Persiceto,Sant’Agata Bolognese, Crevalcore and Baz-zano. The most typical product is Montuni,a pale yellow wine, with a delicate, pleasantand lasting aroma. The flavour is fresh, dryand pleasantly bitterish.For over 30 years, the Cantina of Argelatohas been synonymous with the high value ofthe winemaking culture of Emilia and a refe-rence point for all lovers of the wines andflavours of the rural tradition of theBolognese plains. Created in 1972 with theaim of saving the knowledge of the ancientlocal winemaking tradition, the Cantina ofArgelato aimed to recover and give justvalue to the DOC wines of the Reno, such asMontuni, Pignoletto, the Rosso deiBentivoglio (a strong-flavoured wine takingits name from its native land, which oncebelonged to the Renaissance Lords ofBologna), and the well-known, sparklingLambrusco. Pleasant wines in harmony withthe character of their producers and drin-kers, to which can be added the excellent“Argelato Brut” spumante, with its delicateperlage and harmonious, smooth flavour.

The Cantina of Argelato Via Centese, 17 - 40050 Argelato (BO)Tel. [email protected]

Gastronomy and Wine

tant infrastructures such as the Interporto andCenterGross, one of the largest wholesaleoutlets in Europe. Wine lovers should take noteof the Cantina of Argelato, stronghold of DOCwines of the Reno.

Festival of San Michele: late September

FunoFuno in Festa, village festival with antiquestalls: AugustMARKET DAY: Wednesday in Argelato andSaturday in Funo

Events

Pilastrino

Photo by Circolo fotografico Funo - Ivano Bergami

Malacappa is a miniscule place with a particularatmosphere, being enclosed between the Renoand the high embankment, which embraces itsinuously. In the village of Funo, there are impor-

Documents

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