The Plumbing Basics

8/10/2019 The Plumbing Basics

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The plumbing

basics Tools

Plumbing emergencies

Fixing a dripping tap

Replacing a tap

Fixing a leaking toilet

Installing a shower

Replacing a kitchen sink

Fitting a dishwasher or

washing machine

Green tips

Sanware & Plumbing


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Tools ............................................................................................ 2

Plumbing emergencies .................................................................... 5

Fixing a dripping tap ....................................................................... 12

Replacing a tap ............................................................................. 15

Fixing a leaking toilet ...................................................................... 17

Installing a shower .......................................................................... 20

Replacing a kitchen sink ................................................................... 25

Fitting a dishwasher or washing machine ............................................ 30

Green tips ..................................................................................... 32

Contents


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Also known as a monkeywrench or bobbejaan spanner.It is best to have two pipewrenches in your toolbox whendoing DIY plumbing. However,

do not use them on nuts asyou will damage them. Thewrenches are designed forfirmly gripping couplings andthick-walled pipes.

Tools

PIPE WRENCH When using a pipewrench, always pull ittowards you as youreless likely to damage yourknuckles if it slips.

GENERAL TOOLS

BASIN WRENCH

Also known as a sink wrench,the jaws are perpendicular tothe handle. Designed for use inawkward or small spaces.

SHIFTING SPANNER

Also known as an adjustablewrench. The jaws are flat and

can be used on nuts and boltsas well as copper compressionfittings.


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SLIP-JOINT PLIERS

Also known as water-pumppliers, the slip-joint pivot ofthese allows for a wider rangeof sizes to be gripped.

TORCH

Often plumbing work needs tobe done in dark spaces. Ensureyou have a headlamp or torchto make the job easier.

TAP WASHERS

These come in all shapes andsizes and are needed to stoptaps leaking. Keep a fewsizes on hand so that you canfix those leaking taps withoutwasting petrol on visiting theshops again.

ELECTRONIC METALDETECTOR

Also known as a wall scanner,it is used to detect electricalcables and water pipes behindwalls so you can expose theright ones and avoid chisellingthrough electric cables.

CAULKING GUN

Used to evenly dispensesilicone, adhesive or filler.

PLUMBERS TAPE

Also known as thread seal tapeand PTFE tape, used to createa seal when screwing plumbingfittings together. It is wrappedaround the threads on the malefitting.

TUBE CUTTER

COPPER PIPE TOOLS

Also known as a pipe cutter, itis used for easily cutting copperand plastic pipes to length.

This differs from a solderingiron by having a live flame.Used for heating copper pipesand couplings to solder themtogether. (Can also be usedfor making crme brle in anemergency.)

SOLDERING TORCH


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Cleans up (deburs) the cutedges of metal pipes. Thesame can be achieved byscraping the metal handle ofpliers around the inside of thepipe.

DEBURRING TOOL

Used for scuffing the innersurface of copper couplingsbefore soldering them so the

solder will hold fast.

WIRE BRUSH

A mild abrasive sponge used toclean metal before soldering.Normally used after a wirebrush.

EMERY SPONGE

Safety glasses

Long sleeves and pants are best

Gloves when soldering and cutting pipes

SAFETY GEAR SAFETY TIPS

Gather all necessary tools before starting a job.

Remember that water and electricity make a

dangerous combination, so call in a professional to deal with jobs that involve both, such as geyser installation. Wash hands and tools thoroughly after any plumbing job involving drains and waste water. Use gloves when soldering to protect your hands from the heat of the pipe and any dripping solder. When using a soldering torch, hold the nozzle away from you and

other people whenlighting it. Alsoremember that it willremain hot after beingturned off and so must

be put where it cantcause harm.

Molten solder behaves like a liquid and will

burn any skin or clothing it comes into contact with. When soldering, always keep a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water close by to deal with emergency fires or burns.

SOLDER

Painted onto a joint beforesoldering, this allows themolten solder to spread evenlythroughout the joint.

FLUX

Soft metal wire that melts andflows when heated. Used tojoint metal pipes together.


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HOW TO

1Using your fingers, fish out anyhair or other substances you seesitting in the plug hole.

1 2

Plumbing emergencies

BLOCKED SINK1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

What youwill need:

- Bucket

- Plunger

2Empty the basin so at mostit is half full and place theplunger over the plug hole.

Chemical drain cleanersare handy for dealingwith partial blockages.However, they are verydangerous and can cause

harm if not used correctly.Never pour drain cleanerinto a sink with water init, and never use one inconjunction with a plunger.


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3Block off the overflow, ifthere is one, with a damprag. Gently force the air out ofthe plunger so it forms a sealaround the plug hole. Pump theplunger up and down quicklyfive or so times and then lift itout of the sink and see if waterflows down the drain.

Repeat step 3 as manyas six times.

3

4

5

5If the sink remains blocked,unscrew the S, P or U-trapunder the sink with a pipewrench.

6

6Place a bucket under the trapand undo it, letting any waterflow into the bucket.

If you have removed the

trap under a sink or basinand need to pop out tobuy more materials, plugthe open drain with adamp rag to prevent anysewer gases and odoursfrom coming into yourhome. Flush the pipe withwater immediately afterreplacing the trap.

7

7Remove the trap and cleanany blockage out of it and thedrainpipe. Use a torch so youcan see into the pipe.

8

8Replace the P-trap and runthe taps to flush away any lastbits of blockage and check forleaks.

9

9Wash your hands andequipment well (including the

plunger), and sterilise them toensure no germs from the drainare spread in your home.

NOTEIf you cant see whats

causing the blockage,

its time to call in aprofessional to sort out

the problem.


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1PERSON1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

HOW TO FIND THE LEAK

1Identify which taps dont havewater and check the gardenfor any water welling aroundpossible underground leaks.

1

2

LEAKING WATER PIPE (OR NO WATER)

There are many reasons for taps not producing water. You mighthave a leak or a burst pipe, or the mains supply might have beenswitched off for local municipal maintenance. But there are waysof seeing whether you can fix the problem. For one thing, you willprobably notice an indoor leak before discovering you have no

water.

SAFETY GEAR

Safety glasses

Gloves Long sleeves

What youwill need:- Tube cutters

- 2x capillary slip couplings

- Wire brush

- Emery sponge or cloth

- Flux

- Soldering torch

- Solder

- Rag

- Piece of pipe

2If you cannot see a leak youcan often hear one, so listen atthe pipe entering the buildingand you might get an idea ofwhere the leak is.

4

3 Check your water meter tosee if it is running. If it is notthen the problem is on themunicipal side of the meter.Call to report the fault andfind out if maintenance work isbeing done in the area.

5

4Trace your water pipes intothe house, checking the groundfor dampness and ensuring allshut-off valves are open.

5When you find the leak,mark the spot (if not obvious),and turn off your mains watersupply.

3


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HOW TO REPAIR THE LEAK

Our leak could be fixed with the insertion of a new section ofpipe soldered in place.

1Empty the water from theleaking pipe by turning on thedownstream tap closest to theleak and letting it run until water

stops coming out.

1

2

2Decide how best to repairthe pipe -- either with a newsection, by creating a jointat the leak, or by installing ashut-off valve.

Soldering a pipe that isfull of water will result inpopping and crackling(due to the water boiling),and generally also aleaky joint. Where youcant empty the pipeits advisable to usecompression fittings asthey dont need soldering.

3

3Using tube cutters, cut throughthe pipe on either side of theleak and remove the leaky

section. Water might still comeout of the pipe. Dry it off. Ifwater continues to drip from it,then ball up some bread andshove it into the pipe to absorbthe water while you continueworking.

REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE

TO TURN ON THE WATER TOWASH OUT THE BREAD BEFORE

CONNECTING THE SECOND

INLINE CONNECTOR.

4

4Debur both cut ends of thepipe and clean them on theoutside with emery cloth.

5

5Cut a new piece of pipe thesize of the section you haveremoved. Clean and debureach end of it to receive theinline connectors.


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6

6Clean the insides of bothends of each connector withemery paper wrapped aroundyour little finger.

7

7Apply 20 mm of flux to theoutsides of both ends of the

new piece of pipe and pushthe connectors onto them, usinga twisting motion to spread theux evenly. Spread ux ontothe two ends of the cut pipe aswell.

8

8Insert the new pipe with connectors into the gap and slide theconnectors onto the existing pipe to joint everything together.Ensure that you use the correct connector and not regularcouplings, which wont slide completely onto the pipe. Make surethe original pipe ends are fully inserted into the connectors. Tomake this easier, mark the pipe with a pen at the correct depth.

9

9Unroll 20 cm of solder andbend a hook into the end. This

is so you will be able to meltabout 2 cm of solder into eachjoint.

10

10Light your soldering torch(with the gas turned low),making sure it faces awayfrom all flammable objects and

people. If there is a dry wallor wooden cupboard behindthe part you are heating, placefireproof cloth behind thepipe to prevent the flame fromdamaging it.


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11

11Heat the fitting and pipe and try to avoid burning the flux (asit will prevent the joint from sealing).Touch the end of the solderto the joint until it begins to melt. Remove the flame and press thesolder onto the joint until about 2 cm has been drawn into it.

12

12When this is done properly, the solder should spread aroundthe joint leaving a small visible bead.

13

13Before it solidifies, wipe

away any excess solder andflux with a dry rag. But becareful: the pipe and solderwill be hot.

14

14Repeat for both sides of bothconnectors.

15 Let the pipe coolcompletely before turning onthe water and checking forleaks around your joint.

Practise soldering usinga piece of scrap pipebefore embarking on thisprocedure if you havenever done it before.


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HOW TO

BURST GEYSER

Water is pouring through your house. Your carpets are ruined, yourwood is swelling. What is the first thing you should do when yourgeyser bursts?

Dont forget to have yourhomeowners insurancepolicy number handy.

1Turn off the main household electrical switch (usually found on

your distribution board, often in the kitchen or passage) and turnoff the water mains (or the shut-off valve that feeds the geyser).

1

2 Move children andanimals to a safe place.

3

3Open all your hot water tapsto help empty the geyser andstop further water damage.

4

4Lay towels around the edgeof the flooded area to preventthe water from spreadingfurther.

5 Phone your insurancecompany to find out if theyhave recommended geyserrepairers and phone theprofessionals to come and sortit out. Geysers use both waterand electricity so it is bestto get experts in to solve theproblem.

6

6Take pictures for insurancepurposes and clean up thewater. Open windows anddoors to help with evaporation.

7 Remember to shut off yourhot water taps before turningthe mains water on again afterthe geyser has been fixed.

1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR


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Fixing a dripping tap

1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

HOW TO

1Turn off the water to thedripping tap and turn on thetap to release any water in thesystem. Leave the tap open.

1

2

2When water stops flowingout of the tap, plug the hole inthe sink/basin to prevent losingsmall items down the drain,and place an old towel in thesink to prevent it from beingdamaged by dropped tools.

What youwill need:

- Shifting spanner

- Cloth- Screwdriver (old one)

- Water pump pliers

- Washer or washer- and-jumper unit,

or washer and seating set

- Scouring pad


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3

3Expose the screw holdingthe handle of the tap in placeby levering off the hot/coldbutton and undo it to removethe handle.

4

4Cover the nose of yourspanner with tape so it wontscratch the finish on your tap.

5

5Using a spanner, undo the nut around the headpiece assembly,holding the tap body firmly as you do so to prevent it from turningon the basin (which could cause other leaks).

6

6Remove the part holding the washer (tap jumper). Unscrew thenut holding the washer in place using water pump pliers. Makesure no pieces of old washer are left in the body of the tap. Givethe whole assembly a rub with a scouring pad to remove anydebris sitting on the thread.


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7

7Fit the new washer and replace and tighten the nut holding it tothe jumper.

8

8Place the jumper back in the headpiece assembly and replacethis in the tap body. Tighten it in place with a spanner. Refit thehandle and tighten the nut/screw that holds it in place.

9

9Close the tap and turn on the

water supply. Before openingthe tap, see if the leak hasstopped, then test to see ifwater comes out of the tap.

10

10Replace the hot/cold button.

If the washer seat is pittedyou should fix it with a

reseating tool. Alternatively,replace the tap.

cold button


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Replacing a tap

1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

HOW TO

What youwill need:

- New tap

- Flexi connector

- Plumber s tape

- Plumber s putty

- Plumber s wrench

- Rag

- Shifting spanner

- Basin wrench1Turn off the water to the tap and lay a towel in the basin toprotect it from your tools. Put a bucket under where youll beworking.

1


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If you are replacinga hot water tap, withluck youll find a shut-offvalve between it and thegeyser. If you dont, then

you will have to shut offthe water supply to thegeyser. Dont worry aboutswitching off the electricity

because the geyser willnever drain completely.

Just open the hot watertap and wait till it stopsrunning.

2

2Disconnect the flexi connectorsupplying water to the tap

and let any water run into thebucket.

3

3Using the basin wrench,unscrew the nut under the basinthat holds the tap in place andremove the tap (you might needto lever it off its seating with ascrewdriver).

4

4Assemble the new tap as perthe manufacturers instructionsand make sure it fits in the holein the basin.

5

5Place a roll of plumbers puttyaround the inner edge of the

base of the tap (to preventwater leaking past it into thecupboard below) and positionthe tap on the basin.

6

6Fasten it to the basin via thenut underneath, using the basinwrench to tighten it well.

7

7Attach the flexi connector tothe tap inlet. Make sure thatthe nut is tight as the connectoruses a rubber washer to makea seal (no need for plumberstape here).

8

8Turn on the water supply andtest the tap for leaks.

9

9Wipe any excess plumbersputty away.


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Fixing a leaking toilet

Toilet cisterns used to overflow through a pipe that led outdoors, soit was obvious when they were leaking. Modern cisterns overow

into the toilet bowl. This is a great advancement but means youcould be wasting water (and therefore money) by not noticingand xing a leaking toilet. Look into your toilet bowl. If water isdribbling down the sides and you havent recently flushed it, thenyou have a leak.

1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

What youwill need:

- ScrewdriverHOW TO

Remove the lid of thecistern.

1

LEAKING INTO THE BOWL

2

2Check your float. This islinked to the inlet valve andcontrols the level of the waterin the cistern. If you have aleak, the water level could betoo high, in which case all youneed to do is get the float toclose the inlet valve at a lowerwater level. Is this the case? Tofind out, lift the float slightly andgently. If water stops flowinginto the cistern, it is.


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3Using a screwdriver, tightenthe screw above the float sothat it closes the inlet valvesooner (you might have to flushand refill the cistern a couple oftimes before you get it right).

With the cistern full, testthe float by pushing it downslightly. Water should sprayinto the cistern. Release thefloat and it should stop. Oncethis has been achieved you willhave fixed your leaking toilet.

If water is dripping down the back of the toilet or there are brownstains down the back, then you might need to replace the waxseal between the toilet and the outlet pipe. This is an unpleasantjob but easy and quick to do.

LEAKING FROM THE OUTLET PIPE

1PERSON 1

SKILL

3 5

1 HOUR

HOW TO

What youwill need:

- Bucket

- Cup

- Wax seal

- Clean cloths

- Cleaner

- Paper towels

Give your toilet a goodclean and sterilise it.

1

2 There is no need toswitch off any valves becauseyou will be working on theoutlet, just dont flush the toiletwhile you are busy.

3

3Put an old towel under thejoint to catch any drippingwater and minimise the amountof clean up.

4

4Pull out the old seal tryand get all of it out. If you areunable to, then use the bitsleft behind to provide extrasealing. Just dont leave anydiscoloured, saturated wax inthere as it wont seal well.

3

4


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SAFETY GEAR

Rubber gloves

To finish the seal off

neatly, pour some soapon your hands and wipethem over the wax tosmooth it. This will alsohelp with cleaning yourhands afterwards.

If the gap between thetoilet and the outlet pipeis big, roll up some oldnewspaper and use itto caulk the gap so youdont waste too muchwax.

5Dry the area thoroughly withan old cloth.

5

6Gently break the new wax seal and pack it around the joint.This can get quite messy but make sure the wax is packed infirmly all the way around and there are no gaps.

6

7Wipe excess wax off with paper towels and remove any thatgot onto the outside of the pipe or toilet with a detergent.

7

8Flush the toilet and check forleaks. If there is one, remouldthe wax to fill the gap.

8

Wash all your equipment

well and sterilise it with Dettol.

9


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Installing a shower

1

SKILL

2PEOPLE

2 DAYS

3 5

HOW TO

1Plan what you want to keepfrom the old shower in theway of pipes and fittings anddecide whether you need tochange their position.

1

What you

will need:- Shower tray- Shower doors

- Shower taps

- Silicone sealer

- Chisel (if taking off tiles)

- Shifting spanner

- Sugar soap

- Sandpaper

- Paint and roller

- Shower head- Pipe wrench

- Plumber s tape

2

2Take out the old fittings andgut the area. We removed theshower base (which was builtin), wall tiles and fittings.


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3

3Reroute pipes wherenecessary, chasing them intothe walls. Expose old chasedpipes in order to move fittings.

If you are just updatingthe look of your taps, youmight be able to avoid

exposing the previouslychased pipes. All thatmight be necessary isto clean and dry thethreads on the pipes,wrap plumbers tapearound them to sealthe connections, andthen screw on your newfittings.

However, if you arechanging the type oftap, you might need toexpose previously chasedpipes in order to changethe fittings on them and/or create more space forthe new taps. Once theseare installed, check forleaks before plasteringand smoothing the wall.

FITTING THE TAPS

CHASING PIPES

This is when you hide thepipes below the surfaceof the wall. Use an anglegrinder to define the edgesof the chase channel, anda chisel and hammer toquarry out the channel.Put together as much ofthe pipework as possiblebefore placing it intothe channel. Once itsconnected, remember to

4

4Remember to plug any open

drains so you dont end upinadvertently flooding yourbathroom when using othershowers and baths in thehouse.

check it thoroughly for leaksbefore plastering over thepipes and using a steel floatto create a smooth finish forpainting or tiling. Before youtile or paint the walls (andbase, if concrete) make sureyouve sealed them with abonding liquid or sealingagent.


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FITTING YOUR SHOWER HEAD

9

9Clean and dry the showerarm projecting from the wall.

10

10Assemble the shower headaccording to the instructions thatcome with it.

11 Wrap plumbers tapeclockwise around the thread

on the shower arm. Make sureto wrap it on tightly so thatit sinks into the threads andto use an unbroken piece oftape.

SHOWER TRAY AND DRAIN

5

5Plan the height above thefloor you want your shower trayto stand and install the P-trap

to the drainpipe and then thewasher and connectors so thateverything is in position for thetray.

6

6Stuff a wet rag into the drainto prevent any debris fromfalling into and blocking yourwaste water pipes.

7

7Position the tray in place andfit the waste outlet to the trayalong with the rubber pipe thatcame with the tray.

8

8We chose to tile the areawith standard white tiles andwhite grout. If you have a

smooth wall you can usePlascons Bathrooms & Kitchenspaint instead of tiling.

WALL COVERING

11


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17Place one of the framesections on the one wall,resting it on the corner of theshower tray, and mark whereyou need to drill holes in thewall to secure it. Drill andsecure with wall plugs andscrews. Repeat on the otherwall.

19Use anit-mould silicone sealerto seal along all edges andaround all corners, smooth offbead with a nger. Make sureyou seal between tiles and trayand the tiles and cubicle tocreate a watertight enclosure.

20Remove the wet rag fromthe drain and silicone edgesin the drain. Screw the outletstrainer into place.

REROUTING PIPING

Choose the shortest runfor the pipes and use thestraightest course to preventheat and pressure loss.Make sure that you do notbypass any crucial valves,such as pressure reducingvalves, as if you do it willbe dangerous and coulddamage your geyser.

For safety, try to routethe cold water pipe from

as close to the mains aspossible. If you dont, otherpeople using cold waterin the house will affect thetemperature of your shower.Someone ushing a toiletcould even lead to theperson in the shower beingscalded. The routeing ofthe hot water pipe is not asimportant, for if someoneelse uses hot water it willonly mean your showerrunning colder, which is acomfort issue but not unsafe.

Wrap tape around thenose of your wrench toprevent it from scratchingnew fittings.

17

18

18Screw the shower doorhinge into place and checkthat the door lines up with themagnetic closing strip beforetightening completely.

SEALING YOUR CUBICLE

19

20


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Close the hot and coldshut-off valves and turn on thetaps to release pressure and

ensure the water is off.

Replacing a kitchen sink

1

SKILL

2PEOPLE 3 5

4 HOURS

HOW TO

REMOVE THE OLD SINK

What youwill need:

- New sink- Taps

- Water supply lines

-Torch

-Rags

- Bucket

- Pipe wrench x2

- Basin wrench

- Pliers

- Plumber s putty/ silicone

- Plumber s tape

- Drain connection: pipe, washers, slip nut, T-piece,

P-trap, wall outletconnector, elbow piece

Safety glasses

SAFETY GEAR

1

1Take out everything (chemicalsand detergents) from under thesink. Put them out of reach ofchildren and pets.

2

3 Place bucket under supplyline for water run out.

If your sink has a few smallrust spots, use inox creamto polish them away and

you wont have to replacethe whole sink.


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6

6Inside the cupboard, use atorch to see and unscrew thesink from the cupboard.

7

7Use a blade to cut throughany sealant between the sinkand the countertop.

8

9

5

5Use pliers to disconnect the drainpipe and P-trap from the sinkoutlet. Water will flow out, so have the bucket handy. Remove anydishwasher or washing machine pipes. If you are replacing thepiping, remove the old piping completely and block the drainpipethrough the wall with a wet rag to prevent any sewer gases fromcoming into your kitchen.

4

4Use two pipe wrenches torelease the compression fittingsfor both the hot and cold taps.

8 Get some help to lift the sinkoff the counter, one personlifting from the top and theother pushing from inside thecupboard, if necessary.

9 Clean up the edges of thecountertop and wall and ifnecessary cut a larger hole forthe new sink to fit in.


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FITTING THE NEW DRAINPIPE

1O

10Apply a roll of plumbersputty around the outlet holeon the inside of the sink andposition the new waste outlet

fitting firmly on the putty.

12

11Place the sink on its side andtightly secure the fitting to thebottom of the sink, using therubber gasket and flanged nut.

Repeat the process for thesecond sink.

13

13 Remove excess putty fromaround both fittings using acloth.

11

14The drainage system must be planned according to where yourmain drain is. Construct as much of it as possible before fittingthe sink into the counter, as working space will be limited in thecupboard. Attach most of it onto the sink before you install the sink.

15Attach a washer, slip nut and tailpiece to the pipe for each sink,then join them via a T-piece. Attach a P-trap to the bottom of theT-piece and route the pipe to the wall outlet.

14

15


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INSTALLING THE NEW SINK

20Place the sink into the holeleft by the old one.

21Screw extra struts in place tocreate a good solid frame forthe sink and slide it into place.You might need some help todo this with ease. You couldadd adhesive to the framebefore putting the sink in place.

Be very careful of

stainless steel edges theycan be extremely sharp.Wear gloves wheneverpossible.

FITTING THE TAP

16Assemble the mixer unit as per the manufacturers instructionsand wrap plumbers tape around the threads where it will be

connected to the hot and cold inlet pipes.

17Position the mixer on the sink. You might need to cut a hole inthe sink if there isnt one you could use a hole saw designed formetal, or a chassis punch.

18Fasten mixer to the sink usinga basin wrench to tighten thenut well.

Remove excess putty.

16

17

18

19

20

21


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CONNECTING THE DRAIN

24If you have trouble lining upthe P-trap and wall outlet youcould buy a flexible pipe to jointhe two pieces. Before joiningthem, remove the wet rag fromthe pipe through the wall.

26Run the water to check forleaks.

25Seal the gaps between the sink and the counter with silicone,wiping the sealant smooth to complete the seal and provide aneat finish.

HOOKING UP THE WATER

22Attach the supply lines to theconnector pipes of the mixerusing a compression fitting oneach line.

23Place a container under themixer and turn on the hot andcold water to check for leaks.

22

23

24

25

26

flexible pipe


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33/3631

3

3Attach the other end to the tap. The tap should have a thread,if not you might need to replace it with one that does. The pipe isusually designed to be attached without the use of tools.

4

4Attach the pipe holder and place the end into the drain. Cabletie in place.

5

5Turn on the tap to the washingmachine, set it on the rinsecycle and test for leaks.

Fit a reducer betweenyour drainpipe andwashing machine outletand never worry about aflooded kitchen again.


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Green tips Taking a shower is morewater-efficient than havinga bath as long as you dontspend a long time in theshower.

Change your shower rose forone with a restrictor. This willallow you to enjoy your showerwhile using less water.

Modern toilet cisterns aremuch smaller than older ones.If you still have a large cistern,wrap a brick or large stone inplastic and gently place it in

the cistern. Less water will nowbe needed to fill it, meaningyoull use less water to flush theloo too.

Install a dual-ush mechanismin your cistern. There are manytimes when only a half-flush isadequate.

Only wash full loads in yourwashing machine.

Use a cold wash cycle inyour washing machine to saveon electricity costs.

A dishwasher is more water-efficient than hand washing, butonly when it has a full load.

Dont let the tap run while youbrush your teeth, you will waste6-8 litres of water.

Dont let the shower run whileyou are washing your hair.

Lower your geysertemperature to save onelectricity costs.

Although geysers come

well insulated, extra insulationhelps them retain the heat evenlonger and so reduce yourenergy costs.

Minimise evaporation ofirrigation water by using a dripsystem instead of a sprinklersystem.

Insulate all your hot waterpipes, both outside the house

and in the ceiling. This is anadditional way to save youelectricity. If your pipes arechased into the walls, the nextbest thing is to insulate at leastthree metres of them, starting atthe geyser.


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Disclaimer

Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. Theinformation contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIYprojects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibilityfor the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome ofany project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safetyprecautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturersinstructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may onlybe available at selected Builders stores.If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY projectplease consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that mayresult out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides.

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Desig

ningy

ourgarden

Keeping

alush

lawn

Paint

ingtheins

ideof

your

home

Decoratin

gafeatur

ewall

Paint

ingoutsid

eyourh

ome

Flooring

solutio

ns

Tiling

your

walls

Securin

gyour

home

Theplum

bingba

sics

Lighting

Swim

ming

poolcare

Choosin

gtheri

ghtt

ools

Weeke

ndDIYp

rojec

ts

Documents

The Plumbing Basics